i called 7 people here in jersey to help me out with my basement and they all sound like they're tryna get me for money. Why cant there be someone like yourself here lol
Oh I’m sure this process is not cheap! But at least doing it this way will leave you with peace of mind. Hopefully you can get in touch with someone who’s fair!
I’ve now been watching your channel every single day for the past month of the same videos because I just found a bunch of mold in my newly purchased house that the sellers did not disclose. I gutted the entire basement and then found asbestos tile throughout the entire basement. Removed 2 rows of the tile around the perimeter to build a French drain. So thank you for these videos I feel like a professional now…..until I start the work.
Look at you go Peter. glad to see you guys are doing well. Its Kenny I used to work one of your crews, im Beckys son. Im a home inspector now. You've got a lot of great information in here. Keep up the good work man
This looked so expensive, but I'm sure not as expensive as the damage water would have caused over time... and your warranty is simply unheard of and I find it very professional and respectable.
Could you please tell me what your super slurry is? I'm up here in Frenchville maine and had a foundation poured last summer and we are having cove joint seepage...dealing with contractor now who graded and poured foundation.. I watched your other video on how to properly redirect water coming in from cove joint. Thank you so much!
Hi. Love the videos! I have a question about your crystalline concrete waterproofing "super slurry." Is there any reason to not use it up the entire concrete or cinder block wall vs. stopping at 2 ft? Thanks!
Our Superslurry penetrates pores and turns concrete into a waterproof barrier. When water fills up to that level, outside your basement walls, it stays there for a prolonged amount of time. This is where you will see the greatest amount of leeching or deterioration from sitting water outside your walls. Superslurry stops water from saturating those walls and deteriorating them.
Hello I subscribed after watching one of your videos. I like the work. Do you guys drill a hole in each block first row on top off footing so it will drain out into the drainage area. ?? I like the special mix of cement you use to fill it back in. Excellent videos and work.
I'm not involved with these guys but work a sister company of their manufacturer. If you have a Cinder Block foundation, Yes. You need to drill holes through the lowest or first block. Cinder block is hallow so water does build in the blocks.
This all makes perfect sense to me and sounds amazing up to the point of the black tube your putting in with the rock around it. How exactly is the water entering the black tube? If water is coming in up from the ground or down from the walls and the only entry point of the black tube is from one end, then how does it really carry water?
They are perforated to allow water to enter the pipe at any point of contact and get carried to the sump basin. We have found no better way to move drainage water.
Sure wish you were in Colorado.. I’ve had about 5 estimates for waterproofing our basement and each one tries to sell us the systems I just watched you and your guys rip out.. I’m taking notes while watching your videos and I’m going to try two more companies out here. I’m hoping to let them know that I have somewhat of an understanding of what proper waterproofing should be. 🤔😊
It goes to show that "real" waterproofing is not easy to find because it takes a very serious skill set to do correctly. It also takes hard work to dig down and stop water way below the surface of the floor. The overflow systems like the one sold in your area can be installed by an amateur waterproofer, yet they often charge more money and upsell other products. I hope you find a qualified waterproofing company in beautiful Colorado.
what these basement guys don't talk about is the situation OUTSIDE of your house causing the basement problem. That should be solved first. I like this guy though, too bad they aren't in the midwest.
Thanks, Eric. We will be making a video explaining why the outside is a big part of any basement seepage problem. Sadly it cannot be solved from the outside. We have seen promises fail one after another. Keep tuned in.
That warranty, that makes this all the better in my mind. I have a 1907 four square in Toledo Ohio and I will look to a company like yours when I move onto the basement project. As a Veteran, I watch what I spend and I would never want to spend thousands on a failed system. I do not know of a competitor that would offer the same warranty as yours so let me know if you ever work out of state like in Ohio. Also, what is a general cost for this type of install if the basement is 35 x 30 or 1000' in area.
I’m not going to quote any prices online because it’s fluid and constantly changing in this changing economy. Also, you can’t trust everyone who offers you a lifetime warranty because some of them may skip town after operating for a year or two. We’ve been in business for over 25 years and offer a lifetime warranty because we know our system is perfect for interior waterproofing. We spent time perfecting it over all those years.
We are not familiar with anyone outside our service area to make recommendations. Otherwise, I am glad you like our videos. I hope you use them as a guide when deciding to hire a waterproofer.
This basement is bad wow. I’ve had one section of my basement get wet constantly I fixed it by regrading my lawn and I put some rock stones around the the foundation outside and it’s been dry since I did that
Hey American Dry Basement! I’ve been having a water problem and I found out my floor is level with my footings and not sitting on top of it. What should I do?
I knew the water in my parent's basement wasn't coming through the stairs. Now, to find someone in LA that knows about basements because there are apparently only four people with basements in Los Angeles.
Anyone; I'm looking for onfo on basement floors how necessary is it to seal the floor and what product is best for basement built 1954? Lots of clay in area.
I have found your videos very helpful! I would definitely use your company if I could. However, since I live in PA, I have been seeking estimates from several local companies to waterproof my basement . Your videos have guided me to the right companies to contact (& those to avoid!). I do have a question though, and I'm hoping you have the time to respond. All three of the companies I've gotten estimates from use a system that appears to be exactly like you show on your videos. However, two of the companies who have provided me estimates drill holes into the concrete block, every 18" or so, behind the mira drain or flow channel. One of the companies does not. I do not see you drilling these holes in the blocks in the system you install. Is this something I should avoid, or is it not a big deal one way or another? Thank you in advance and thank you for putting these very informative videos on line!
Thank you for commenting and great questions. We always drill holes (weep holes) in cement blocks and unfortunately, no example of it is in this review video. You can see it here: ua-cam.com/video/IVgmcXlONpA/v-deo.html Water will enter the block cores if you get a lot of surface water to flood your sill plate. Weep holes allow the water to pass quickly into the system if it occurs again.
I also live in PA....SWPA to be exact. We are starting to have major basement water issues that are getting worse every heavy rain. May I ask what company you chose, the approx cost, and how it went if the work has been completed already?
@@richstevens5727 I live in NEPA, near Bloomsburg. I went with "The Basement Expert", Lewisburg, PA. I believe that they travel a considerable distance in PA to do the work. The system they use is exactly like this video demonstrates. I have had two periods of extended, very heavy rain since having the system completed. No water at all has come in thru the sill or the basement floor; the sump pump fills and pumps the water right out. I only had this system done on 2 walls that were problematic due to poor exterior drainage and the sloping landscape. It has worked well so far, and I was told I could always have it added to (have the system installed on the other 2 walls) if it didn't do the trick. The cost was about $6,500 if I remember correctly. Well worth it when I consider the headache a wet basement had been for many years. I hope this helps ..
Do you guys have a list of “Recommended Vendors” that use a similar system and do a good job? Or is this system proprietary? I’m in the boston are and only finding Box installation companies. Thanks
Sorry. We don't have a list. You can watch our videos and compare to companies in your area. The way we install interior waterproofing is hard to do, but the right way. You need more than one person to install. I'm sure you can find a contractor near Boston who use similar products. Good luck.
Love your videos! I have a significant basement flooding issue in my house in San Francisco. Hate that you are based in CT, so wanted to ask if there may be any companies/partners in North California you'd recommend working with? I've had at least 5 contractors come to the house and either don't want to touch the job or have provided an estimate of over $100K for an exterior French drain
I'm sorry to hear this and even more sorry that I don't have any contacts for you in your state. No company can honestly guarantee you will not get water again with exterior footing drains. I'm sure all the good companies are busy and the vultures are left to prey on your worries.
I like and subscribe right away most videos I just watch a little bit and keep scrolling. You sir was very informative and I have a garage that leaks alot when it rains hard I have cracks in my foundation. My quote is $8,000 does that sound right? Is there an alternative 🤔
A quote can go much higher depending on the type of foundation and how much prep work, linear feet, exterior discharge lines, sump pump stations, etc. Only an honest waterproofing inspector can give you an accurate price. It could be lower or higher, or it is something totally different and can be a simple fix for $300. Get several estimates.
This is a good option but is not the only option. Contractor will always want to get your money. Be wise. Do research and see what other options you have to solve your problem
from the start of the piping from the pump to the highest point you must keep that measurement as small as possible. the longer/higher you have to push/move the water the lower GPM is achieved happens to the pumping process and shortens the life of the pump. i do agree with installing that pipe under the slab
Pitched correctly, pumps can last 20+ years. We have many customers who will bear witness to their sump pump longevity. We can barely believe it ourselves. They only cycle repetitively after heavy downpours, especially in high water table areas.
Everything looks good,but the plastic pipe will fall apart and clog all the good work you are doing,but the plastic pipe will not last I had the same thing done in 1972,it worked great until 2020,which is real good,but replacing the old system this month.
Not as often. Most of the time, the cold joints in a solid foundation are enough to provide a passage way for the ground water to enter the waterproofing drainage system.
Approx. .5 to 1-in/ft depending on the height of the footer. Longer wall; raise pipe at center so pitch will go downward to either side to a sump basket.
@@richstevens5727 I was quoted approximately 19,000 by Ohio Basement Systems last year. That was at the height of trying to get supplies though and they called back once or twice stating that they could do it for a little less I think the lowest he said was around $16,000. But there's a mixture of the original River Rock foundation where some of that mortar is crumbling and the lye is leaching out. And then there are parts that have been cinder blocked. As well as a cistern on the back porch that is cracking. With pipes from that protruding into the basement but not hooked to anything.
In our area, the pipe doesn't need a sock. It will clog with slit and minimize the amount of water getting inside the drain pipe. Any excess slit is carried away to our sump station and pumped out. I can't change a sock under 4" of concrete every couple of years to improve flow.
A sock is a filter; dirty, clogged filters should be changed periodically. That's a big problem when the filter is deep under a concrete floor. Good luck changing your sock. They eventually fail the system.
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems Can you point me in the direction where I can purchase the hydroactive gel that you injected into the wall and the concrete slurry you used. Got a similar situation in my basement.
Do you wrap the pipe in a fabric befor placing the stone? I’m confused how dirt will not get in to the pipe from the bottom grade where pipe layers. Great job thanks for the information
No. We don't use a fabric wrap. We don't like it. It acts as a filter but you can't change it as you do in a car. It clogs up and then problems follow. A fine slit enters every system, and the sump pump should be able to discharge both water and fine slit. The sump pump basket should be checked annually and cleaned with a wet-dry vac.
I'm actually in the middle of redoing my basement at the moment and I have a couple questions I've been having a hard time finding info on, would you be able to help me out? 1. My house is built in 1940, we just moved in a few months ago and after noticing water coming in we have so far removed drywall, replaced the entire drainage system, re-routed our sewage line, and noticed that on the wall where our sump pump empties into the yard someone over the years built a retention wall in our basement to reinforce the existing foundation wall. We had that entire wall underpinned and a 12" knee wall built to support it. At the top of this retention wall in the basement it sits down probably a foot lower from the where the joists are supported above, and the top of the block is exposed leading air and moisture to come in. I am planning on finishing this basement come hell or high water, so obviously I plan on insulating in my joist ends with foam board and spray, and then I plan to insulate in everything else with vapor barrier and foam board, would you recommend that the top of that retention wall be sealed off or left open to vent? I plan on building another wall during framing to keep it all sealed in with more vapor barrier and fiberglass insulation at my framing, but is it better that the retention wall breathe but still let in mold and God knows what else behind my framing, or is it better to completely seal it off? 2. The concrete slab is in terrible condition and there are some spots im worried about because they are slightly damp (its only been a few weeks since we replaced the drainage system, I know im supposed to wait longer). There obviously is no vapor barrier under the concrete and I cannot afford to replace the slab and redo it. Water mitigation is probably my only option, my slab definately needs to be leveled anyway. What type of systems do you recommend, what has the best success at keeping water and dampness out in these cases? Do you have any videos that attack sealing a concrete slab that are in really rough condition? There are some small spots where dirt is exposed, I can feel under it if I dig with my fingers, the slabs probably only 2 or 3 inches thick, its not level, someone added an addition to the basement square footage and parts of the previous demoed foundation wall are exposed, etc. All the videos I've been seeing are for slabs in way better condition. Thanks for any help you are able to give.
Most waterproofers (including myself) on UA-cam talk about traditional foundations that's why your quest for information is so difficult. Unfortunately, your situation is complex. It would be irresponsible of me to give you advice without physically seeing it in person. One thing is for sure seal off between the wall and sill plate if you are planning on making this a usable space. IMHO, the slab is just as important as the wall. There could be some undermining. Pound the slab with your foot and listen for change in sound. The slab should be at least 3.5 inches of thickness from center to wall. Quick-leveling cement will get you a level floor. Depending on the sq ft that could be a lot of cement. All the best
First, thanks alot for the reply. Im sure you're a busy guy. Any chance your company services the maryland area? Second, yes I was thinking of using floor leveler but I wasn't sure how it would react to a slab in as poor condition as mine with signs of dampness coming through. Obviously id go over it with diamond plate floor sanding and make sure its super clean, but I'm still concerned hydrostatic pressure could still weaken the leveler. I've been hearing that using a cement/sand/epoxy mix works pretty well, do you recommend that? It doesn't have to look pretty, my main concern is keeping out water, being level, and the surface not crumbling. Also I should mention my ceiling isnt very high and I'm planning on using MLV/resilient channel/double dry wall so headroom is an issue and I can't go too thick with the slab. Again, thank you so much for the reply.
These homes were probably built 80 years ago with very poor materials and workmanship. Understandable that’s what they knew back then. New generation basements are built way better
I agree. The building code is much better now, but occasionally there is some poorly mixed concrete in block or poured foundations. A few bad actors (contractors) are finding ways to reduce quality that goes unnoticed to make more money.
i called 7 people here in jersey to help me out with my basement and they all sound like they're tryna get me for money. Why cant there be someone like yourself here lol
Oh I’m sure this process is not cheap! But at least doing it this way will leave you with peace of mind. Hopefully you can get in touch with someone who’s fair!
I'm from jersey. In my experience they probably are.
@@OPhill87 Roselle Park and Cranford are among two towns that have the highest water problems.
I’ve now been watching your channel every single day for the past month of the same videos because I just found a bunch of mold in my newly purchased house that the sellers did not disclose. I gutted the entire basement and then found asbestos tile throughout the entire basement. Removed 2 rows of the tile around the perimeter to build a French drain. So thank you for these videos I feel like a professional now…..until I start the work.
I don't own a basement, but thanks for the hard work you've put into teaching us the right way to do it!
Thanks for watching!
Look at you go Peter. glad to see you guys are doing well. Its Kenny I used to work one of your crews, im Beckys son. Im a home inspector now. You've got a lot of great information in here. Keep up the good work man
Thanks, Kenny. Congrats on becoming a home inspector! My best to the family.
@@AmericanDryBasementSystemswhere are you guys located?
This looked so expensive, but I'm sure not as expensive as the damage water would have caused over time... and your warranty is simply unheard of and I find it very professional and respectable.
Please make your way to Ohio!! Or absorb/sub-contract/educate these companies on the right way to do these jobs! 😩
Could you please tell me what your super slurry is? I'm up here in Frenchville maine and had a foundation poured last summer and we are having cove joint seepage...dealing with contractor now who graded and poured foundation.. I watched your other video on how to properly redirect water coming in from cove joint. Thank you so much!
Great video I had a similar system put in in June they put the plastic panels on the wall it works great .
I watch these videos like people watch cooking videos!!
I hear ya, me, too. Sometimes they don’t even immediately apply, but they’re very interesting.
This video made me more comfortable with the process.
With a warranty like that, I'd like to know if I can hire you *outside* of the US.
Great video. You explained your method so well. I learned so much. Thank you.
Hi. Love the videos! I have a question about your crystalline concrete waterproofing "super slurry." Is there any reason to not use it up the entire concrete or cinder block wall vs. stopping at 2 ft? Thanks!
Our Superslurry penetrates pores and turns concrete into a waterproof barrier. When water fills up to that level, outside your basement walls, it stays there for a prolonged amount of time. This is where you will see the greatest amount of leeching or deterioration from sitting water outside your walls. Superslurry stops water from saturating those walls and deteriorating them.
Hello I subscribed after watching one of your videos. I like the work. Do you guys drill a hole in each block first row on top off footing so it will drain out into the drainage area. ?? I like the special mix of cement you use to fill it back in. Excellent videos and work.
I'm not involved with these guys but work a sister company of their manufacturer. If you have a Cinder Block foundation, Yes. You need to drill holes through the lowest or first block. Cinder block is hallow so water does build in the blocks.
@@AcidAngelCross what about stone foundations?
From watching your videos,… I’ve been ripped off by budget dry and their box system!
This all makes perfect sense to me and sounds amazing up to the point of the black tube your putting in with the rock around it. How exactly is the water entering the black tube? If water is coming in up from the ground or down from the walls and the only entry point of the black tube is from one end, then how does it really carry water?
They are perforated to allow water to enter the pipe at any point of contact and get carried to the sump basin. We have found no better way to move drainage water.
Water flows from high point to low point, and sump pump is at the lowest point. Gravity is at work. So proper grade for the pipe is important.
Why not use PVC pipe instead of the flexible product?
Excellent video...thank you sir 👍
What is "super slurry" you reference at the 5:32 mark? Is this a sealant?
Sure wish you were in Colorado.. I’ve had about 5 estimates for waterproofing our basement and each one tries to sell us the systems I just watched you and your guys rip out.. I’m taking notes while watching your videos and I’m going to try two more companies out here. I’m hoping to let them know that I have somewhat of an understanding of what proper waterproofing should be. 🤔😊
It goes to show that "real" waterproofing is not easy to find because it takes a very serious skill set to do correctly. It also takes hard work to dig down and stop water way below the surface of the floor. The overflow systems like the one sold in your area can be installed by an amateur waterproofer, yet they often charge more money and upsell other products. I hope you find a qualified waterproofing company in beautiful Colorado.
what these basement guys don't talk about is the situation OUTSIDE of your house causing the basement problem. That should be solved first. I like this guy though, too bad they aren't in the midwest.
Thanks, Eric. We will be making a video explaining why the outside is a big part of any basement seepage problem. Sadly it cannot be solved from the outside. We have seen promises fail one after another. Keep tuned in.
Need you guys in Atlanta!
Any luck finding this in Atlanta?
Right!
That warranty, that makes this all the better in my mind. I have a 1907 four square in Toledo Ohio and I will look to a company like yours when I move onto the basement project. As a Veteran, I watch what I spend and I would never want to spend thousands on a failed system. I do not know of a competitor that would offer the same warranty as yours so let me know if you ever work out of state like in Ohio. Also, what is a general cost for this type of install if the basement is 35 x 30 or 1000' in area.
I’m not going to quote any prices online because it’s fluid and constantly changing in this changing economy. Also, you can’t trust everyone who offers you a lifetime warranty because some of them may skip town after operating for a year or two. We’ve been in business for over 25 years and offer a lifetime warranty because we know our system is perfect for interior waterproofing. We spent time perfecting it over all those years.
Sir how can I get in touch with you.
This is great information, thanks for sharing
I dig the content.
Weeping tile.. and sump pump
This looks so trust worthy and great. I wish you serviced Ohio or your website had a list of recommended companies for other locations. 😢
We are not familiar with anyone outside our service area to make recommendations. Otherwise, I am glad you like our videos. I hope you use them as a guide when deciding to hire a waterproofer.
this man i doing the lord's work!
This basement is bad wow. I’ve had one section of my basement get wet constantly I fixed it by regrading my lawn and I put some rock stones around the the foundation outside and it’s been dry since I did that
I appreciate all these videos. As a new homeowner with water issues in basement I noticed after I purchased. Thank you
Thank you for watching. Don’t forget to subscribe.
You are the greatest really, thank you !
This guy knows what his doing
Hey American Dry Basement! I’ve been having a water problem and I found out my floor is level with my footings and not sitting on top of it. What should I do?
Greedy developers building houses on crappy wet land that was not worthy of building on. Buyer beware!
What about old houses from late 1800s with stone footings and brick walls?
Are SuperSlurry and Supercrete available for purchase if we’re not in your working zip code?
I knew the water in my parent's basement wasn't coming through the stairs. Now, to find someone in LA that knows about basements because there are apparently only four people with basements in Los Angeles.
How do you address the issue when the original basement slab isn’t proper thickness already? 😢
This is definitely going to fail. That mud is going to work right back into that pipe…
Anyone; I'm looking for onfo on basement floors how necessary is it to seal the floor and what product is best for basement built 1954? Lots of clay in area.
it is not need landscape fabric, because there is not mud ground only rocks
it will be a lot of money to have this kind of work..ill just sell my house
I have found your videos very helpful! I would definitely use your company if I could. However, since I live in PA, I have been seeking estimates from several local companies to waterproof my basement . Your videos have guided me to the right companies to contact (& those to avoid!). I do have a question though, and I'm hoping you have the time to respond. All three of the companies I've gotten estimates from use a system that appears to be exactly like you show on your videos. However, two of the companies who have provided me estimates drill holes into the concrete block, every 18" or so, behind the mira drain or flow channel. One of the companies does not. I do not see you drilling these holes in the blocks in the system you install. Is this something I should avoid, or is it not a big deal one way or another? Thank you in advance and thank you for putting these very informative videos on line!
Thank you for commenting and great questions. We always drill holes (weep holes) in cement blocks and unfortunately, no example of it is in this review video. You can see it here: ua-cam.com/video/IVgmcXlONpA/v-deo.html Water will enter the block cores if you get a lot of surface water to flood your sill plate. Weep holes allow the water to pass quickly into the system if it occurs again.
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems Thank you SO MUCH for your response. Now I know to choose one of the companies that drills the seep holes.
I also live in PA....SWPA to be exact. We are starting to have major basement water issues that are getting worse every heavy rain. May I ask what company you chose, the approx cost, and how it went if the work has been completed already?
@@richstevens5727 I live in NEPA, near Bloomsburg. I went with "The Basement Expert", Lewisburg, PA. I believe that they travel a considerable distance in PA to do the work. The system they use is exactly like this video demonstrates. I have had two periods of extended, very heavy rain since having the system completed. No water at all has come in thru the sill or the basement floor; the sump pump fills and pumps the water right out. I only had this system done on 2 walls that were problematic due to poor exterior drainage and the sloping landscape. It has worked well so far, and I was told I could always have it added to (have the system installed on the other 2 walls) if it didn't do the trick. The cost was about $6,500 if I remember correctly. Well worth it when I consider the headache a wet basement had been for many years. I hope this helps ..
How much spacing do you do between the engineering tabs?
Happened to me today, after I finished the basement 😢
Here in the Pacific Northwest we get a false water table for months😫
too bad not in Jersey! Recommend anyone here?
Do you guys cover RHODE ISLAND??
i wish you did work here in washington my whole basement is flooded
interesting
They had so many seperate perimeter pipes, no surprised it turned the room into a pool
Why no fabric around the stone and pipe?
Do you guys have a list of “Recommended Vendors” that use a similar system and do a good job? Or is this system proprietary? I’m in the boston are and only finding Box installation companies. Thanks
Sorry. We don't have a list. You can watch our videos and compare to companies in your area. The way we install interior waterproofing is hard to do, but the right way. You need more than one person to install. I'm sure you can find a contractor near Boston who use similar products. Good luck.
Love your videos! I have a significant basement flooding issue in my house in San Francisco. Hate that you are based in CT, so wanted to ask if there may be any companies/partners in North California you'd recommend working with? I've had at least 5 contractors come to the house and either don't want to touch the job or have provided an estimate of over $100K for an exterior French drain
I'm sorry to hear this and even more sorry that I don't have any contacts for you in your state. No company can honestly guarantee you will not get water again with exterior footing drains. I'm sure all the good companies are busy and the vultures are left to prey on your worries.
I like and subscribe right away most videos I just watch a little bit and keep scrolling. You sir was very informative and I have a garage that leaks alot when it rains hard I have cracks in my foundation. My quote is $8,000 does that sound right? Is there an alternative 🤔
A quote can go much higher depending on the type of foundation and how much prep work, linear feet, exterior discharge lines, sump pump stations, etc. Only an honest waterproofing inspector can give you an accurate price. It could be lower or higher, or it is something totally different and can be a simple fix for $300. Get several estimates.
can you recommend someone in Minnesota??
This is a good option but is not the only option. Contractor will always want to get your money. Be wise. Do research and see what other options you have to solve your problem
I'm in total agreement. Shop around.
from the start of the piping from the pump to the highest point you must keep that measurement as small as possible. the longer/higher you have to push/move the water the lower GPM is achieved happens to the pumping process and shortens the life of the pump. i do agree with installing that pipe under the slab
Pitched correctly, pumps can last 20+ years. We have many customers who will bear witness to their sump pump longevity. We can barely believe it ourselves. They only cycle repetitively after heavy downpours, especially in high water table areas.
This is interesting, in my country the pipes are always installed on the outside along the footing after digging out around the basement 🤔
In the northeastern USA, footing drains located around the exterior of your basement's footer are not reliable, and an overall terrible idea.
What is your contact?
Go to americandry.com
So this system also helps for the water coming from under the floor ?
Yes.
Everything looks good,but the plastic pipe will fall apart and clog all the good work you are doing,but the plastic pipe will not last
I had the same thing done in 1972,it worked great until 2020,which is real good,but replacing the old system this month.
You’re complaining about something that lasted 50+ years Jesus Christ. Now I know for sure that I want this type of pipe
@@im_alrightokay5809 I am not complaining I just made a statement,how new product might better,I am thankful I lived long enough to replace it
Are weephole necessary for a solid foundation compared to block ?
Not as often. Most of the time, the cold joints in a solid foundation are enough to provide a passage way for the ground water to enter the waterproofing drainage system.
Did I get it right that you will clean the system for free if Iron Ochre gets into it? (at around 8:50min)
If the pipe clogged, I will clean for free.
Very informative....
Is there a certain pitch you set your pipes at? For example 1/8 or 1/4 of pitch?
Approx. .5 to 1-in/ft depending on the height of the footer. Longer wall; raise pipe at center so pitch will go downward to either side to a sump basket.
How does the water get into the black pipe if there are no holes throughout the pipe?
The pipe has holes. We use perforated corrugated pipe.
3:53
Very informative! I’m looking forward to hearing your suggestions for our basement.
How does one get your products outside of your service area?
One can't. It is only available to residential and commercial owners we serve in Connecticut and 8 counties in the southern half of New York.
I need u guys! Pleasesseeeee
Does the water from the pump get discharged up through the green grate that is on the lawn? Also, doesn't rain water enter that grate?
Yes. It is place 15 to 30 feet away from the house on a slope downward. Rain water does get in and filters out through the ground far from the house.
Love your videos. I live in the Cleveland Ohio area. Any recommendations on who to call?
We don't make any recommendations outside our service territory.
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems what is your service territory
That system is amazing .How can I use it in India?
Thank you! We don't operate in India, but you can watch our videos for inspiration and direction.
I would be happy to let you guys do our 100+ year old basement the right way. But I don't have that kind of money :(
how much does this process run approximately?
@@richstevens5727 I was quoted approximately 19,000 by Ohio Basement Systems last year. That was at the height of trying to get supplies though and they called back once or twice stating that they could do it for a little less I think the lowest he said was around $16,000. But there's a mixture of the original River Rock foundation where some of that mortar is crumbling and the lye is leaching out. And then there are parts that have been cinder blocked. As well as a cistern on the back porch that is cracking. With pipes from that protruding into the basement but not hooked to anything.
IS that for finishing basement too or just weather proofing it ?
We just did this but we also put a sock over the black perferated pipe.
In our area, the pipe doesn't need a sock. It will clog with slit and minimize the amount of water getting inside the drain pipe. Any excess slit is carried away to our sump station and pumped out. I can't change a sock under 4" of concrete every couple of years to improve flow.
Thanks for taking the time to make the video. Very informative@@AmericanDryBasementSystems
thank you
Looking forward to the solutions to my wet basement. If this system works I won't have to pump water out of my basement.
Put a sock on that perforated pipe
A sock is a filter; dirty, clogged filters should be changed periodically. That's a big problem when the filter is deep under a concrete floor. Good luck changing your sock. They eventually fail the system.
Are you guys in the new york city area ?
Our service area does not include the five boroughs and Long Island.
Big 4 inch pipe
Do you have presence in Illinois around Chicago area?
We only service homes in Connecticut and New York.
Who did you use and what were the results, we live north of Chicago and are going through this process now. -Thanks!
Would you drill weep holes?
Yes. Cement Block only.
Makes sense.
😊
Are you guys located in VA
We only service in CT and nearby NY.
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems
Can you point me in the direction where I can purchase the hydroactive gel that you injected into the wall and the concrete slurry you used. Got a similar situation in my basement.
Should the drainage pipe be within a sock / fabric? Or is it best to leave it exposed as shown?
No sock or fabric. Ever. Filters are meant to be changed. They will clog or congest flow.
What size Stones do you used
A mix of half to three-quarter of an inch.
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems thank you sir you guys do great work
Do you guys operate in Indiana?
If not who do you recommend near Indianapolis?
No. Only Connecticut and New York. We are not familiar with any waterproofing companies in your area, and unable to recommend.
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems do you do NJ?
Do you wrap the pipe in a fabric befor placing the stone? I’m confused how dirt will not get in to the pipe from the bottom grade where pipe layers. Great job thanks for the information
No. We don't use a fabric wrap. We don't like it. It acts as a filter but you can't change it as you do in a car. It clogs up and then problems follow. A fine slit enters every system, and the sump pump should be able to discharge both water and fine slit. The sump pump basket should be checked annually and cleaned with a wet-dry vac.
Hey great video. How much would this cost ?
I'm actually in the middle of redoing my basement at the moment and I have a couple questions I've been having a hard time finding info on, would you be able to help me out?
1. My house is built in 1940, we just moved in a few months ago and after noticing water coming in we have so far removed drywall, replaced the entire drainage system, re-routed our sewage line, and noticed that on the wall where our sump pump empties into the yard someone over the years built a retention wall in our basement to reinforce the existing foundation wall. We had that entire wall underpinned and a 12" knee wall built to support it. At the top of this retention wall in the basement it sits down probably a foot lower from the where the joists are supported above, and the top of the block is exposed leading air and moisture to come in. I am planning on finishing this basement come hell or high water, so obviously I plan on insulating in my joist ends with foam board and spray, and then I plan to insulate in everything else with vapor barrier and foam board, would you recommend that the top of that retention wall be sealed off or left open to vent? I plan on building another wall during framing to keep it all sealed in with more vapor barrier and fiberglass insulation at my framing, but is it better that the retention wall breathe but still let in mold and God knows what else behind my framing, or is it better to completely seal it off?
2. The concrete slab is in terrible condition and there are some spots im worried about because they are slightly damp (its only been a few weeks since we replaced the drainage system, I know im supposed to wait longer). There obviously is no vapor barrier under the concrete and I cannot afford to replace the slab and redo it. Water mitigation is probably my only option, my slab definately needs to be leveled anyway. What type of systems do you recommend, what has the best success at keeping water and dampness out in these cases? Do you have any videos that attack sealing a concrete slab that are in really rough condition? There are some small spots where dirt is exposed, I can feel under it if I dig with my fingers, the slabs probably only 2 or 3 inches thick, its not level, someone added an addition to the basement square footage and parts of the previous demoed foundation wall are exposed, etc. All the videos I've been seeing are for slabs in way better condition.
Thanks for any help you are able to give.
Most waterproofers (including myself) on UA-cam talk about traditional foundations that's why your quest for information is so difficult. Unfortunately, your situation is complex. It would be irresponsible of me to give you advice without physically seeing it in person. One thing is for sure seal off between the wall and sill plate if you are planning on making this a usable space. IMHO, the slab is just as important as the wall. There could be some undermining. Pound the slab with your foot and listen for change in sound. The slab should be at least 3.5 inches of thickness from center to wall. Quick-leveling cement will get you a level floor. Depending on the sq ft that could be a lot of cement. All the best
First, thanks alot for the reply. Im sure you're a busy guy. Any chance your company services the maryland area?
Second, yes I was thinking of using floor leveler but I wasn't sure how it would react to a slab in as poor condition as mine with signs of dampness coming through. Obviously id go over it with diamond plate floor sanding and make sure its super clean, but I'm still concerned hydrostatic pressure could still weaken the leveler. I've been hearing that using a cement/sand/epoxy mix works pretty well, do you recommend that? It doesn't have to look pretty, my main concern is keeping out water, being level, and the surface not crumbling.
Also I should mention my ceiling isnt very high and I'm planning on using MLV/resilient channel/double dry wall so headroom is an issue and I can't go too thick with the slab. Again, thank you so much for the reply.
thank goodness for your system , if medals were being handed out , u guys should be at the head of the queue.
These homes were probably built 80 years ago with very poor materials and workmanship. Understandable that’s what they knew back then. New generation basements are built way better
I agree. The building code is much better now, but occasionally there is some poorly mixed concrete in block or poured foundations. A few bad actors (contractors) are finding ways to reduce quality that goes unnoticed to make more money.