About what I expected. I have a number of the vehicle battery form-factor Eco-Worthy 51.2V LiFePO4 batteries, all connected in parallel with 2 AWG wiring, and have had zero issues with them. If I had to do it over again I'd probably just get EG4 LifePower4 or EG4 LL batteries with a proper rack. I can't fault Eco-Worthy at all though, the batteries have been operating flawlessly with daily cycling for over a year now. For low-cost inverters, I've had decent luck with WZRELB inverters. Definitely on the cheap side, and they are HF inverters but I don't have any inductive loads to really worry about. They work great. They have those finger-tightened screw terminals and definitely required a bit of remedial work before they could be used comfortably. Basically the terminals in those are double-ended... one bolt goes through to both sides. the inside terminals are used for connecting the internal cables. But the two units I have were both shipped with an insufficient length of bolt exposed on the outside and one couldn't decently get even a single cable's ring-end connected up without really having to work to get the threads to catch. So the remedial work involved opening the unit up, bleeding out the input capacitor to zero all the voltages, and then re-adjusting the bolts for the terminals to have enough bolt protruding on the outside for decent cabling, plus adding lock washers. I will say that with the lock washers and adjustment, the terminals are solid and won't break loose. -Matt
I starting watching this for solar purposes and saw your knife collection! Looks like my drawer. Immediately subscribed hahaha! Now I’ll watch the rest of the video too
Yes, this is a great point! it will save you having smaller 12 or 24 system components collecting dust after you upgrade as well. Highly recommend going straight to 48v even if that means saving up for longer.
Did you ever crack the lid on this battery to see how good the build quality is? In general, the Eco Worthy products have not reviewed very well, especially when you open them up.
Wanted to know how the 48v Lifepo4 Lithium Battery Smart Charger has lasted for you? I was seeing mixed reviews on Amazon. Thank you. Have a similar setup.
The cables that come with the battery are the same size as the internals of the battery. Which if you have a fail, I think on the outside of the battery pack would be better than the inside
I see your logic, but a few things to consider! There are no cables included with batteries, so you do need to choose the right size cables. Also you want NO cables to fail. The BMS will protect the internals, its up to us to run the ampacity calculations for the outside wires, especially when we start paralleling a bunch of these together like I do. And Lastly for protection, you want to oversize your wires and put a fuse/breaker on the line incase something does happen, the current will be stopped before melting your cables - which is very dangerous. I use 4awg with these, for 4 batteries in parallel so I can pull 100a safely. Check out this diagram for details on wire gauge! assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/newsletter/images/DC_wire_selection_chartlg.jpg
@@TackleThat if you run a fuse on the cable, or breaker like code requires or should, that wire will blow a 100amp fuse before the wire even gets hot enough to hurt the cable. It’s only a 50 amp battery, 6 gauge is rated for continuous 50 amp draw up to 182 ft on copper, and 60amps on short runs. Everyone wants bigger cables that are unnecessary, 6 gauge is ran to your electric stove with on a 50 amp breaker which can run 10 percent over that. While Wire sizing is important, over or undersizing wire is a done by beginners that have little knowledge or experience. Bigger isn’t better, proper sizing and overload protection is what’s good.
Well that's a lot different tune than your 1st comment of using wires to 'fail' on the outside of the unit... also I never said 100a fuse/breaker, I said 4awg wire for 100a sustained (25a x 4 batteries in parallel), so you'd want a 125a fuse/breaker. I run 150a breakers actually since they will still trip way before the fuse rating of the wire gets reached.. Even the pro's size up on copper, it runs cooler and is more efficient. Bigger is for sure 'better' for the efficiency of the system, but it comes at an additional $$$ cost, so there is a diminishing return on sizing up far too much. So, sizing up 1 step in awg is even recommended by Will Prowse, the leader in off-grid systems.
@@TackleThat we can agree to agree, proper wire size is important, undersized is dangerous, over sized is wasteful, and will prowse hasn’t posted a video in years that he didn’t get big bucks for. I’m pretty sure He has not shown a product that he doesn’t have an affiliate link or sponsorship for over 4 years now. He is very knowledgeable, but he only promotes products he profits from at this point in the game, driving 100,000 sports cars and living in a 3 million dollar home. He was homeless in a camper when he started videos, not so much anymore.
Sir, may I ask the link for the chargerthat you use for LifePo4? its not in the description. also, is there one that will stop charging at 80% thank you very much!!!!
Hi there! Sure here it is! amzn.to/4cM9Yie -- You'd have to get a programmable solar charge controller to set MAX voltages. Lifepo4 48v batt chargers will charge the batt up to 58.4 usually. Some say its recommended to do so, that way the cells can balance out. Some say its best to keep batts between 20-80% charge, and only charge up to 100% every month or so.. the debate still rages as these batts can last 10+ years if taken care of.
First off, the 20-80% charging suggestion is for other lithium chemistries, and LiFePO4 batteries can be fully cycled from 0-100% with no problem. To keep the cells inside well balanced, it is recommended to fully charge them. You could check out the EG4 Chargeverter, which has both Voltage and Amperage adjustable. It does cost a lot, though.
Hi, I would like to buy an ecoworth battery like this one in the video, and look, I have an inverter identical to yours but with 3000w. I wanted to know if you recommend it and also could you please write me the bulk parameters, absorption time and float? I have an epever 6415AN, my epever offers a bulk of 58v for the lifepo4, a max charge of 58.40 and a float of 55.20v. Do you think they're good? Some users say they are high in parameters. What do you suggest ? Thank you very much .
Hey there! Lifepo4 doesn't really use a float function, you can just charge it to 58v no problem.. I charge mine to 57v which is a tad less, but little less stress on the pack over time. It settles around 54v so any charge over that is pretty close to full. I set my disconnect for 45v, leaving a little left in the battery so I don't go to 0% as well.
@@TackleThat Thank you very much, in fact I thought to charge in bulk at 57.30-60 (max charge charge at 58.40) or a little less and even if a float is not expected in order not to always leave the batteries in a boost state, give a float of 56.40 v finally the disconnection at 44 v.
According to what I've heard and read, LiFePO4 batteries will last up to ten years, even if fully charged and discharged 100% every day, and then still have 80% of their origional Capacity left. I planned my system that, for most of the year, I should stay above 50%, and most of the time, even above 80% of capacity. My system is set to charge the battery bank up to 58.4, and limiting drain to 42 Volts, just a bit above the battery's Low Voltage Cut-off point, to insure the batteries' BMSs shouldn't cut off power to the terminals. I figure my batteries should last between 15 to 20+ years.
The fact that they only recommend paralleling 4 of these in a system means I won't buy them, even though the price is great. However, for a small to mid-size system, they will be great!
@@TackleThat I don't know. Most rack batteries can be paralled way more. EG4s, for example. I have seen someone build a system with four or five six-battery cabinets.
@@TackleThat If it were me, I would try to contact the company and find out why they have that limit. They may say that it is only for smaller systems and the BMS can't handle larger systems. Or they may tell you that it is okay, as long as you fuse the batteries/battery banks after a certain number of batteries in parallel, so it cannot overload wires or the BMSs. Just to say, I would want to know for sure before exceding their printed limit. Oh...after watching this again, I noticed that on the initial sheet you held up, it said 4s1p, yet in the manual, it looked like you could go as much as 4s4p. Again, you may want to ask the company about this discrepency. One or another could be a mis-print, or they included a manual that is for more than one type of battery. Usually, battery companies say that 12.8 Volt batteries can be hooked in 4s4p, but most rack batteries I have seen say not to series the rack batteries, as the BMSs aren't designed for it, and they will offer you a rack battery that is the proper Voltage for the system you want.
You can pile as many as want of any brand/same voltage batteries. Cabling lengths and sizes to a sufficient buss bar is the critical factor. To pile them up
![Why a 48V System is Better than a 12V? [Vatrer Power]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/8ukQ9wQfMIY/mqdefault.jpg)
![Why a 48V System is Better than a 12V? [Vatrer Power]](/img/tr.png)
About what I expected. I have a number of the vehicle battery form-factor Eco-Worthy 51.2V LiFePO4 batteries, all connected in parallel with 2 AWG wiring, and have had zero issues with them. If I had to do it over again I'd probably just get EG4 LifePower4 or EG4 LL batteries with a proper rack. I can't fault Eco-Worthy at all though, the batteries have been operating flawlessly with daily cycling for over a year now.
For low-cost inverters, I've had decent luck with WZRELB inverters. Definitely on the cheap side, and they are HF inverters but I don't have any inductive loads to really worry about. They work great. They have those finger-tightened screw terminals and definitely required a bit of remedial work before they could be used comfortably.
Basically the terminals in those are double-ended... one bolt goes through to both sides. the inside terminals are used for connecting the internal cables. But the two units I have were both shipped with an insufficient length of bolt exposed on the outside and one couldn't decently get even a single cable's ring-end connected up without really having to work to get the threads to catch. So the remedial work involved opening the unit up, bleeding out the input capacitor to zero all the voltages, and then re-adjusting the bolts for the terminals to have enough bolt protruding on the outside for decent cabling, plus adding lock washers.
I will say that with the lock washers and adjustment, the terminals are solid and won't break loose.
-Matt
I starting watching this for solar purposes and saw your knife collection! Looks like my drawer. Immediately subscribed hahaha! Now I’ll watch the rest of the video too
Haha I knew SOMEONE would appreciate it, thanks for being that person 😆👍
Nice I just bought two packs of four of these that are cheap on Amazon.
Awe yeah! Its a good deal.
Thanks for that.
You bet!
I've been interested in these even though they are only 50ah. I can at least start an affordable 48v set up and add another battery later.
Yes, this is a great point! it will save you having smaller 12 or 24 system components collecting dust after you upgrade as well. Highly recommend going straight to 48v even if that means saving up for longer.
Great video!
Thanks 👍👍👍
Did you ever crack the lid on this battery to see how good the build quality is? In general, the Eco Worthy products have not reviewed very well, especially when you open them up.
I didn't, but thats something I can work into the next review!
ua-cam.com/video/dE9cdAj8uEE/v-deo.htmlsi=WhyMlq54jVQpTx9U
I bought two of the batteries and the 3000 watt cnswi inverter thank you for the tests
Nice 👍
Wanted to know how the 48v Lifepo4 Lithium Battery Smart Charger has lasted for you? I was seeing mixed reviews on Amazon. Thank you. Have a similar setup.
I haven't had any chargers die yet so all good! I use them often. Thanks for watching!
The cables that come with the battery are the same size as the internals of the battery. Which if you have a fail, I think on the outside of the battery pack would be better than the inside
I see your logic, but a few things to consider! There are no cables included with batteries, so you do need to choose the right size cables. Also you want NO cables to fail. The BMS will protect the internals, its up to us to run the ampacity calculations for the outside wires, especially when we start paralleling a bunch of these together like I do. And Lastly for protection, you want to oversize your wires and put a fuse/breaker on the line incase something does happen, the current will be stopped before melting your cables - which is very dangerous. I use 4awg with these, for 4 batteries in parallel so I can pull 100a safely. Check out this diagram for details on wire gauge! assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/newsletter/images/DC_wire_selection_chartlg.jpg
@@TackleThat if you run a fuse on the cable, or breaker like code requires or should, that wire will blow a 100amp fuse before the wire even gets hot enough to hurt the cable. It’s only a 50 amp battery, 6 gauge is rated for continuous 50 amp draw up to 182 ft on copper, and 60amps on short runs. Everyone wants bigger cables that are unnecessary, 6 gauge is ran to your electric stove with on a 50 amp breaker which can run 10 percent over that. While Wire sizing is important, over or undersizing wire is a done by beginners that have little knowledge or experience. Bigger isn’t better, proper sizing and overload protection is what’s good.
Well that's a lot different tune than your 1st comment of using wires to 'fail' on the outside of the unit... also I never said 100a fuse/breaker, I said 4awg wire for 100a sustained (25a x 4 batteries in parallel), so you'd want a 125a fuse/breaker. I run 150a breakers actually since they will still trip way before the fuse rating of the wire gets reached.. Even the pro's size up on copper, it runs cooler and is more efficient. Bigger is for sure 'better' for the efficiency of the system, but it comes at an additional $$$ cost, so there is a diminishing return on sizing up far too much. So, sizing up 1 step in awg is even recommended by Will Prowse, the leader in off-grid systems.
@@TackleThat we can agree to agree, proper wire size is important, undersized is dangerous, over sized is wasteful, and will prowse hasn’t posted a video in years that he didn’t get big bucks for. I’m pretty sure He has not shown a product that he doesn’t have an affiliate link or sponsorship for over 4 years now. He is very knowledgeable, but he only promotes products he profits from at this point in the game, driving 100,000 sports cars and living in a 3 million dollar home. He was homeless in a camper when he started videos, not so much anymore.
Sir, may I ask the link for the chargerthat you use for LifePo4? its not in the description. also, is there one that will stop charging at 80% thank you very much!!!!
Hi there! Sure here it is! amzn.to/4cM9Yie -- You'd have to get a programmable solar charge controller to set MAX voltages. Lifepo4 48v batt chargers will charge the batt up to 58.4 usually. Some say its recommended to do so, that way the cells can balance out. Some say its best to keep batts between 20-80% charge, and only charge up to 100% every month or so.. the debate still rages as these batts can last 10+ years if taken care of.
@@TackleThat thank you very much Sir!!!
First off, the 20-80% charging suggestion is for other lithium chemistries, and LiFePO4 batteries can be fully cycled from 0-100% with no problem. To keep the cells inside well balanced, it is recommended to fully charge them. You could check out the EG4 Chargeverter, which has both Voltage and Amperage adjustable. It does cost a lot, though.
@@Tumbleweed5150 thank you so much!
Hi, I would like to buy an ecoworth battery like this one in the video, and look, I have an inverter identical to yours but with 3000w. I wanted to know if you recommend it and also could you please write me the bulk parameters, absorption time and float? I have an epever 6415AN, my epever offers a bulk of 58v for the lifepo4, a max charge of 58.40 and a float of 55.20v. Do you think they're good? Some users say they are high in parameters. What do you suggest ? Thank you very much .
Hey there! Lifepo4 doesn't really use a float function, you can just charge it to 58v no problem.. I charge mine to 57v which is a tad less, but little less stress on the pack over time. It settles around 54v so any charge over that is pretty close to full. I set my disconnect for 45v, leaving a little left in the battery so I don't go to 0% as well.
@@TackleThat Thank you very much, in fact I thought to charge in bulk at 57.30-60 (max charge charge at 58.40) or a little less and even if a float is not expected in order not to always leave the batteries in a boost state, give a float of 56.40 v finally the disconnection at 44 v.
According to what I've heard and read, LiFePO4 batteries will last up to ten years, even if fully charged and discharged 100% every day, and then still have 80% of their origional Capacity left. I planned my system that, for most of the year, I should stay above 50%, and most of the time, even above 80% of capacity. My system is set to charge the battery bank up to 58.4, and limiting drain to 42 Volts, just a bit above the battery's Low Voltage Cut-off point, to insure the batteries' BMSs shouldn't cut off power to the terminals. I figure my batteries should last between 15 to 20+ years.
The fact that they only recommend paralleling 4 of these in a system means I won't buy them, even though the price is great. However, for a small to mid-size system, they will be great!
Wonder why that is... We should be able to parallel as many as we want.
@@TackleThat I don't know. Most rack batteries can be paralled way more. EG4s, for example. I have seen someone build a system with four or five six-battery cabinets.
@@Tumbleweed5150 ya, I plan on hooking up more than 4 lol... 2 DC house batts on their way.
@@TackleThat If it were me, I would try to contact the company and find out why they have that limit. They may say that it is only for smaller systems and the BMS can't handle larger systems. Or they may tell you that it is okay, as long as you fuse the batteries/battery banks after a certain number of batteries in parallel, so it cannot overload wires or the BMSs.
Just to say, I would want to know for sure before exceding their printed limit.
Oh...after watching this again, I noticed that on the initial sheet you held up, it said 4s1p, yet in the manual, it looked like you could go as much as 4s4p. Again, you may want to ask the company about this discrepency. One or another could be a mis-print, or they included a manual that is for more than one type of battery. Usually, battery companies say that 12.8 Volt batteries can be hooked in 4s4p, but most rack batteries I have seen say not to series the rack batteries, as the BMSs aren't designed for it, and they will offer you a rack battery that is the proper Voltage for the system you want.
You can pile as many as want of any brand/same voltage batteries. Cabling lengths and sizes to a sufficient buss bar is the critical factor. To pile them up
I’m finding the background music annoying
Thanks for the feedback! I'll keep it to a minimum...