BIOS flashback and debug LEDs are incredibly useful on motherboards. Either a 7-segment debug display or basic status LEDs to tell you if the system is failing to POST because of a dead CPU or bad RAM can save you hours or fiddling and testing different components, assuming you even have a secondary system to do component swaps.
8 місяців тому+28
It is really a shame how these basic features are now more or less on premium mainboards only.
@ At least the basic debug lights seem quite common, but BIOS flashback and more detailed error codes kick you firmly into the above-$200 range. For the cost of a 7-segment display it's rather absurd. I don't know how expensive BIOS flashback actually is, but seeing how an entire SBC costs less than $15, I can't imagine it costs that much to add.
You can get a post test card for $40-50 and it can be used on numerous machines. I'm not going to pay $400 to get one built in to my MB when I really only need a midrange MB that costs $150.
Debug LED's and displays are great to have. But usually only come on higher end boards these days. Surprisingly, almost every board still has a speaker header that's rarely ever talked about, or even used anymore.
@@yellingintothewindWhen I was picking my motherboard, I knew I wanted an ASUS board, but the only one that had the 7 segment LED Q code readout that I wanted was the Crosshair VIII Hero, which was like $400 retail, and even on sale, that's ridiculous that it costs that much just for something that used to be much more common on cheaper boards. Hell, even the new X670-E boards that have Q code is absurdly priced.
@@bibinsunny6935 Laugh all you want, it doesn't matter. Pascal-era GPUs can't do ray tracing anyway, mesh shading is literally only implemented in one mainstream title so far (Alan Wake 2), and VRS is still a very novel piece of tech. Even if a 1080 Ti could run DX12 Ultimate, most of its users would probably want to stick to DX11 anyway due to it performing much better atm.
Funny isn't the word I would use. Ironic. Sad. Absurd. Those are words that spring to mind. 90% of people building a gaming PC do not need a 1000W PSU.
@@Lurch-Bot yeah, I have 1000W, but I admit 850W or even 750W would probably have been sufficient. That being said 1000W model was only a little bit more expensive than 850W, so I went with higher wattage for future me's sake. I don't want to have to upgrade that PSU for like the entire warranty period which is 10 years
Im gonna do the same. um making a PC right now with a 3090 i got from a friend and i think 1000W gives enough headroom for me to make any future upgrades if i want to. @@xTRTSCx
Back in the 2000s the PSU vendors would straight up lie about the wattage. I remember a review of a Logisys PSU with an acrylic body that would melt when it was under load.
I was under the impression that they tend to be fitted with just enough wattage for the parts they're built with, but generally they use good quality power supplies.
Print your downloaded ram and physically install it inside your pc to make the upgrade twice as effective. This is a fire hazard and a joke. Don’t do this or reply with “great, you made me burn my house down”
Going with quality is ALWAYS worth it and it doesn't have to be expensive either. My 7 year old rig that I first built still works to this day, my sister who doesn't game much or plays heavy titles uses it now and she's happy with it. All the way back then I already knew that you shouldn't skimp on some components like the PSU for example. I also ALWAYS buy a cpu with intergrated grahics for troubleshooting! Have had a couple of instances where I didn't have a gpu for different periods. Worth it! You can play lighter titles like Minecraft and Factorio on modern cpu's! :D RAM is also something I Never skimp on. I host my own game servers from time to time so 32gb is a must and nowadays I have 64gb 6000MT/s DDR5 kit. Worth it. Also I don't play EFT anymore but that f'ing game loves RAM. The faster and the more you have the better. 'Till a certain point of course. I hate RGB so I never bother with it. Also my PC is out of sight 24/7 anyway so would make ZERO sense.
Yeah, having a iGPU on my R5 7600 is definitely handy, RAM is cheap also, definitely worth it, 16GB of DDR4 costs 37$ while 32GB only costs 60$, 16GB of DDR5 costs 60$ while 32GB costs 96$, it's not like the price doubles, definitely worth it to get the extra RAM for stuff like EFT, servers, and Hogwarts legacy for example, that one gulps RAM also.
My current build I focused heavily on a decently powerful, but also “No Dollar Wasted” rig and already did much of this kind of research and consideration, so it’s good to see it all consolidated into one video I can send people who ask me about it.
the hell with performance i dont have backache anymore like with the ancient office chair. i'll take that from a £100 chair (i may have bought a white gaming chair at less than half price that nobody would buy except me, because everyone worried about it showing dirt - but the principle stands)
@@davidhines7592 Yeah, good purchase. Anything that improve your health, comfort, and life quality is a good buy. Maybe you could save some money to buy "High-end" chairs like Herman Miller. They're better and more cozy than those gaming chairs. Their used price werent that bad. Thats all from me.
I got lucky and got an Aus Thor II 1000-watt PSU a couple years ago for about $150, brand new. The best way to go expensive is to look out for the deals. Almost every component I use, I did so only for the deals. The Asus Ryujin III-360 CPU cooler, I got it for $180, new. The Asus X570-I, I received that new for around $200. My Samsung Neo G8 4k 32 inch monitor was a little pricey at $800 new. Worth it though. The point I'm making is that you can often find top notch parts for almost half off, brand new.
Yeah, shopping the sales is a great way to go. Problem is most new PC builders these days have some very specific and inflexible ideas about what they think they need. However, I think one of the most egregious sins is wasting money on the lowest tier new GPU when you can have something that performs better for less money on the used market. And, with the sort of QC issues I've been seeing on new parts lately, it is arguably better to buy used, as long as the seller is reputable. A novice builder probably won't know if their new GPU is performing 30% below the benchmark averages like I did with my last brand new GPU. I returned it immediately but if you don't thoroughly test your components, new or used, you can really get screwed over. Warranties are nice and all but 95% of the time when I have to RMA a component, I go and buy a replacement because I don't want to be without a working PC for 2 months. Then I have to sell the warranty replacement to recoup my money.
Bought an EVGA GT 1000w unit a few years ago when it went on discount for like $120. (shortly after the glut of pandemic PC demand when sales tanked) I didn't really need it at the time. My 750W seasonic was fine. Then, my friend needed a relatively basic editing computer so I built him one with my 750W and used the new EVGA in mine. I eventually bought a 7900XTX, so I felt really comfortable in that choice.
@@NitheshVG734 Yeah but if you were playing old windows games like some of us, you'd be running a combination of 98SE, XP and 7 VMs to skip the hassle of trying to get the games running on Windows 10/11 And for those, the video memory in the VM software will get said memory from the allocated RAM, so if you're running a 7 VM with 8gb of ram allocated, then allocate 2gb of it for vram, the VM itself will only use 6gb. As you can imagine, running that VM on a 16GB Windows host is cutting it close.
@@TimmyInTarky if you want simple go with VMware Workstation Player, and run as a personal/non-commercial license. That way you can use it for free. It's the one I use in Windows to run my 98/XP/7 VMs and while the emulated gpu performance varies depending on the guest OS (the one in the VM), I can confirm on 7 if you lock the VM display to 1024x768, give it 10gb ram with 2 allocated to vram (already overkill for games made in that era or Vista), you can run Crysis at 30FPS maxed out. Yeah... It's powerful enough for that. If you wanna run more modern stuff your mileage may vary but if you're like me and looking for a simple solution that doesn't involve clogging up your desk with older computers to play old games, this is the one to suggest. What do you plan on doing with VM software? Can give some suggestions
yes, more of this, i like this exactly, because after a couple years some rules tend to change when it comes to guiding towards the right pc build at that time. nice
I just bought a GTX 560Ti for a retro gaming rig that is still going strong after 12 years and who knows how many owners. Your 1660 Super will probably be working long after it is obsolete. If a GPU lasts that long, it is probably free from any defects and highly likely to go the distance.
I recently bought a 1660 ti laptop (& 9th Gen i7). And I honestly use it more than my desktop with a rx6950xt & Ryzen 9 5950x. That GPU is more than enough for pretty much everything, I agree. Plus I can do it all in bed 😎
As someone who's looking to build his first desktop I really appreciated this video and it definitely helped me understand some thing a little bit better. So yes I would really like to see a part 2 and idk maybe a part 3?... ;)
I remember playing Vice City on my 128 mb RAM Compaq laptop where the game occassionaly froze and went BRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR for like 20 seconds before going back to normal. Good times.
In the last few years I've also found it important to check the RAM you want against the MB QVL list. Used to be if you could plug in the RAM it would just work. Nowadays have run into times where that wasn't the case.
Doesn't seem to be much of an issue with cheap, slow RAM. But IDK about DDR5. It may be inherently more picky. I've only run into a RAM incompatibility issue once in the past 20 years or so and that was on a Core 2 Optiplex. In the old days (pre-ATX), you were limited to certain specific combinations of RAM modules.
After having my RAM turn out to be incompatible with my GPU due to a really weirdly unique timing issue, I started only getting RAM off the QVL instead of going for the crazy fast stuff. lol
I did a major upgrade from a 2600X, 16GB RAM and an RTX 2060. To a 5800X3D, 32GB RAM and a 7900 XT. The CPU improved the 1% lows and the GPU lifted the framerate dramatically. The RAM just gave me a bigger buffer before calling on the SSD to help.
Both Windows & Linux use unallocated RAM as a cache to boost performance. The benefit varies depending on what your system is doing, but there is a benefit from "more RAM than you need" (if your budget can handle it). Even with today's super fast SSDs, it's about an order of magnitude faster to access cached file data vs. reading it from the drive.
I have an 8GB laptop for browsing, editing documents, and occasional gaming with emulators and visual novels. Windows 11 has never used more than 6 - 7GB.
For CPUs though, you skipped "threads" specially since Intel removed it for some CPUs. So if strictly CPU 8 threads is minimum. (Note: 4 threads are still useable BUT only for basic tasks like office apps and browsing)
This effectively eliminates the misconception that more money guarantees improvement across the board. Performance is more about balance and understanding what you're using your PC for.
@@greatwavefan397Steam pre optimizes the Vulkan shaders on Linux, gets rid of a lot of studdering issues. Otherwise those shaders would be getting compiled during game play. So the more cores the faster it can compile the shaders.
With the number of videos on this and the main LTT channel talking about virtual machines and containers, I’m honestly shocked at not calling out that use-case and developers as a reason for more memory. The focus on “content creators” in this section is a disservice to wider, more established communities that have practical use-cases here.
You forget to ,mention the power supply rating, something I learnt only a few years ago. If your pushing the performance constantly like gaming or visual work you should get a 80 plus rating of bronze or better! If it doesn't have a rating, skip it all together.
Would be interesting about GPU's. I managed to get a 3060 with 12GB ram last year (as others were just too expensive and I just bought a house) and so far it runs every game on max settings.
Intel is the only one with E-Cores, AMD uses regular size cores with less cache (i.e. compact cores) so you can cram more into the same space as full cache cores.
1:00 above 32gig is also necessary for IT work because we need to deploy a lab environment with numerous virtual machines to learn and test things. And VMs are RAM hungry.
Yes, you should do explainers about cheap vs more expensive Keyboards, Mouse, GPU’s, Displays, and Storage (SSD vs Spinning Hard Drives for non-System Drive application as well as different types of SSD memory cell types for System Drives such as QLC, TLC, MLC, and SLC.
@@DaBombtasi it is but you can boil it down to most important factors that one night need to consider for specific needs cases for noon-enterprise use such as content creation, media library storage, backup/archiving, game playing, etc. They could cover storage as a separate topic vs keyboards, mouse, and displays.
They can allow for more powerful hardware acceleration for programs that have an option, like web browsers, social media apps, and some video or audio editors.
@@greatwavefan397 Yep, especially the video editors. But even for just playing video, the cpu will decode the video drawing much more power then a dedicated chip inside the GPU, this includes the iGPU as well if you have one.
3:00 Undervolting can also increase performance, as a lower voltage produces less heat. This creates headroom for your chips to deliver a bit more performance while thermal throttling, or may keep you below certain thermal boost limits. But whats stable underload may crash randomly at idle. Test all kinds of scenarios!
I haven't even considered that. I'll have to see how undervolting works for my gaming system. I don't really play many games that really push my current rig.
@@ShadeKoopa Well, to get you started: In general bios of the motherboard is going to give voltage on the safer side and a lot of it. If you can find an option in the bios to treat your chip as 'typical' and try that, it can already save you so much heat and create headroom. If you have an intel system, intel XTU works well for me. Try the AI overclocking tool, and then reduce the power limits PL1 and PL2 to whatever matches your cooling. On the AMD side I prefer 1usmus Hydra over Ryzen Master, but you wanna find the optimal setting for EDC in PBO (you can find the max setting if you let the mobo decide on the limits in bios). And after finding a PBO setting you like, you can tweak Curve Optimizer, which is the actual undervolt (and adds more frequency). The 'downside' of modern chips is that you have so many cores and settings to test. Currently undervolting my 14700K after an overclock, and so far I know of 1 'weak' P core (-0.02V) and am still looking for the limits on the other cores (seem at least capable of -0.04V). Got a 7950X3D that is more efficient under full load, but will crash with the same CO settings on idle, because the chip boosts too high with too little voltage. So you end up changing only a few numbers at a time, narrowing down which core is at fault. The 5900X was much easier, since a WHEA error crash would just tell you which core was the 'faulty' one. Reduce CO on that core and test some more. Use OCCT for stability testing. You can tell it to cycle loads through one thread by thread - you can set it to halt on errors - and if it crashes it will show you its last state on next boot, allowing you to figure out which core crashed. Undervolting is a looong process though, since you need to test so much. Have fun!
i think a good followup is WHEN to buy. Middle of last year was a great time to buy RAM and NVME storage. NVME prices started shooting up in January and now the 2 TB NVMEs I bought for 70 each sell for 112 each.
For memory capacity, I love the freedom that having twice the capacity I would need for largest individual task. Having more means, simply not caring about leaving things open when doing memory hungry things. Its more about tool for multitasking. And with DDR5 having more than 2 RAM sticks will make your ram clock lower, thus adding more later is worse value than getting exactly two sticks that you needed in originally.
3:50 Cores also matter if you run the same APP multiple times at the same time ... like 7-Zip to create ten 7z different files at the same time, each one for its own folder / subfolders set.
I maxed out the data on that drive 1 time and despite samsung software saying the drive has good health, has never been the same. Where the drive just freezes or loses data while writting.
Also very important addition to power supply, many of cheap units have higher wattage, cause they can deliver more power on unnecessary 3,3v/5v rails, instead of 12v rail, which is more important, since it is used by CPU/GPU/Storage.
Having gone from a Asus ROG X470-F because the B-channel RAM slots died, to a MSI Pro B550M-VC wifi, which cost half as much, I can confirm there is no point getting a "higher" quality mobo. It handles a 5800X3D and the VRM doesn't go higher than 50c. When the mobo wants to die, it will die, cheap or expensive, it doesn't matter. What does matter is who is easier to RMA with. I never want to go through Asus RMA, if I can help it.
Small piece of advice, sometimes its better to save a bit more for the higer end motherboard in the same family, what i mean is that if you aim for a z660 because its enough, try and go for the same brand z690 and you'll get a smoother performance for a bit more money, its worth it
I thought this was going to be about low-end vs high-end brands and components, and not just about paying excess for more cores or speed because you might not actually need them.
Server SATA SSDs. Sweet spot is about 2x the price of regular ones. You get better handling of power spikes, power loss and also three times the amount of writes. The 1tb Samsung evo one have 700tbw, whereas the slightly more expensive server micron ones have three times that.
I do a lot of workstation tasks (Programming, 3D rendering, AI, PCB design with high pin count) so I have a pretty beefy PC, it's mostly future-proofed except my CPU.
I spent a lot of time researching the best bang for my buck components without sacrificing longevity. It paid off nicely. I'm still rocking my MSI B450 Tomahawk Max MB, R5 3600, Asus 1070, Antec Silent case. EVGA 550w Gold PSU
Forget modelling work... If you start a fluid simulation with openfoam you can kiss your ram goodbye and start resource hog your friends ram and cpu cores as well. I believe open mpi it was called.
I don’t think it’s good to running openfoam simulation locally. Perhaps a testing to see if runs. I think it is more important when analyzing with paraview, where your mesh is big.
Got a 14900KS, Strix 4080 OC, Corsair DDR5 6400mhz (32gb), Tuf Gaming Z790 Plus Wifi, Asus Thor 1200w Psu, Strix LC II 360 AIO, all in a Tuf Gaming GT 501 Case. It's beautiful.
I usually pair motherboard with CPUs that handle the PCIE lanes. A GPU, m2 slots, sata, all add up. And while lanes may not be all used simultaneously it's annoying to have it throttle/split. I mean data hoarding is fun.
RAM: this might be controversial, but I simply buy the best frequency/latency combo that's still covered by the JEDEC specifications (and works with the CPU/MB combo). That also leads to always getting "naked" RAM sticks without any useless "heat spreaders" and/or RGB. No XMP or OC needed, they work OOTB 100% of the time. PSU: Enermax has a great web calculator where you simply select what other components you use and it spits out a recommended wattage. I usually take that result, round up to the next 50W tier and add another 50W as "buffer". For my last 2 builds that turned out to be a 600-700W PSU. Spending a few [currency] more for a model with a better "80+" label can be worth it if the system won't run at high load most of the time. MB: I usually pre-filter for the formfactor and socket I want/need, sort by price and then work my way up from the cheapest board until I find 2-3 that have all the ports/features I want. And from those I then pick the one that has the least unnecessary extra stuff (like WiFi...). That way I've so far always gotten boards that cost me
Every time I build a computer for a friend I explain what they need for today and for tomorrow. They are surprised when I tell them not to buy the most expensive parts, but to but the parts that fit what their workload is. I end up saving them tons of money and they get a great system for what they need. Most of them are not gamers, developers, or content creators. Just want to browse the web, check email, and run some office apps. I do not have them "cheap out" on the parts though.
What board and ram exactly you have, how is running so far, please, because I'm planning these days to get 7800x3d and can't decide yet on those two,,,the rest I already have from AM4?
For consumer PSU's, the power efficiency peaks at about 50% load. It's different for every PSU but for example a RM1000 (1000w) is 93% efficient at 400watts but is 89% at 900 watts, and at 50-100 watts it's 80-85%. Not only saves you energy, but it's less waste heat being created
Another thing that lots of RAM is good for is if you do a lot of stuff with virtualization, using an OS like Qubes or a bunch of virtual boxes or such. That's why I generally go for 64 gigs of RAM when I can.
I had a gaming rig with a mid quality psu, some day when my brother was playing a game on it, It literally exploded. lucky for me no other parts of my rig got broken except that psu.
I would argue that PSUs are, or at least they were. In the 90's cheap PSUs were liable to explode. A lesson I learned the hard way when my PSU blew, and took my motherboard and CPU with it.
Interesting, this is not really what my experience is. I never had any issues with power supplies, but to spend on a motherboard makes it so much easier if you want to expand the functionality of the machine later.
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BIOS flashback and debug LEDs are incredibly useful on motherboards. Either a 7-segment debug display or basic status LEDs to tell you if the system is failing to POST because of a dead CPU or bad RAM can save you hours or fiddling and testing different components, assuming you even have a secondary system to do component swaps.
It is really a shame how these basic features are now more or less on premium mainboards only.
@ At least the basic debug lights seem quite common, but BIOS flashback and more detailed error codes kick you firmly into the above-$200 range. For the cost of a 7-segment display it's rather absurd. I don't know how expensive BIOS flashback actually is, but seeing how an entire SBC costs less than $15, I can't imagine it costs that much to add.
You can get a post test card for $40-50 and it can be used on numerous machines. I'm not going to pay $400 to get one built in to my MB when I really only need a midrange MB that costs $150.
Debug LED's and displays are great to have. But usually only come on higher end boards these days. Surprisingly, almost every board still has a speaker header that's rarely ever talked about, or even used anymore.
@@yellingintothewindWhen I was picking my motherboard, I knew I wanted an ASUS board, but the only one that had the 7 segment LED Q code readout that I wanted was the Crosshair VIII Hero, which was like $400 retail, and even on sale, that's ridiculous that it costs that much just for something that used to be much more common on cheaper boards. Hell, even the new X670-E boards that have Q code is absurdly priced.
long live the 1080 ti
Nvidia's best mistake
@@TheBoostedDogeYeah I agree. I got a 1080 Ti and wish i hat a AMD. nvidia drivers on linux are shit
I'm looking at you, dx12 ultimate 😂
Mine died 😢
@@bibinsunny6935 Laugh all you want, it doesn't matter. Pascal-era GPUs can't do ray tracing anyway, mesh shading is literally only implemented in one mainstream title so far (Alan Wake 2), and VRS is still a very novel piece of tech. Even if a 1080 Ti could run DX12 Ultimate, most of its users would probably want to stick to DX11 anyway due to it performing much better atm.
It's very funny that you put a sponsorship for an expensive 1000W power supply on a video focused on not overspending 😂
Funny isn't the word I would use. Ironic. Sad. Absurd. Those are words that spring to mind. 90% of people building a gaming PC do not need a 1000W PSU.
@@Lurch-BotHonestly, him saying half a minute later that 1kW PSUs are useless for most people makes it pretty funny.
@@Lurch-Bot yeah, I have 1000W, but I admit 850W or even 750W would probably have been sufficient. That being said 1000W model was only a little bit more expensive than 850W, so I went with higher wattage for future me's sake. I don't want to have to upgrade that PSU for like the entire warranty period which is 10 years
@@Lurch-Botmore like 98%
Im gonna do the same. um making a PC right now with a 3090 i got from a friend and i think 1000W gives enough headroom for me to make any future upgrades if i want to. @@xTRTSCx
Never buy shit power supplies. You may not need a ton of watts but you want QUALITY capacitors and such.
Back in the 2000s the PSU vendors would straight up lie about the wattage. I remember a review of a Logisys PSU with an acrylic body that would melt when it was under load.
Watt?
Efficiency is important as well.
@@TheZoenGamingIs it important for things other than saving money on electricity bill?
Remember when PSUs had high wattage ratings but crappy 12V rails?
i like how big brands (HP, Dell, Apple) nearly always use the cheapest PSU they can get away with. Even on the hi end models.
Yes "get away with",
And also custom to remove everything unnecessary,
But not catch fire garbage, mostly XD
*high
When their warnnety only covers 1-2 years then that's as long as they need to survive
I was under the impression that they tend to be fitted with just enough wattage for the parts they're built with, but generally they use good quality power supplies.
@@consoletimmyagreed. Never really had those old psus fail, but I wouldn't upgrade the pc without changing the powersupply entirely
Just download more RAM, it's completely free.
A N I M E
N
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Print your downloaded ram and physically install it inside your pc to make the upgrade twice as effective. This is a fire hazard and a joke. Don’t do this or reply with “great, you made me burn my house down”
Plz clt+alt+del urself 🤓
well with zram you can actually do that haha
Swap has entered the chat
Going with quality is ALWAYS worth it and it doesn't have to be expensive either.
My 7 year old rig that I first built still works to this day, my sister who doesn't game much or plays heavy titles uses it now and she's happy with it.
All the way back then I already knew that you shouldn't skimp on some components like the PSU for example.
I also ALWAYS buy a cpu with intergrated grahics for troubleshooting! Have had a couple of instances where I didn't have a gpu for different periods. Worth it! You can play lighter titles like Minecraft and Factorio on modern cpu's! :D
RAM is also something I Never skimp on. I host my own game servers from time to time so 32gb is a must and nowadays I have 64gb 6000MT/s DDR5 kit. Worth it.
Also I don't play EFT anymore but that f'ing game loves RAM. The faster and the more you have the better. 'Till a certain point of course.
I hate RGB so I never bother with it. Also my PC is out of sight 24/7 anyway so would make ZERO sense.
Yeah, having a iGPU on my R5 7600 is definitely handy, RAM is cheap also, definitely worth it, 16GB of DDR4 costs 37$ while 32GB only costs 60$, 16GB of DDR5 costs 60$ while 32GB costs 96$, it's not like the price doubles, definitely worth it to get the extra RAM for stuff like EFT, servers, and Hogwarts legacy for example, that one gulps RAM also.
my 14y old rig with no name garbage psu still work,7year is nothing if you paid premium,that pc better be running for 3 generation
iGPU isn't a reasonable option on AM4 (you're giving up on good amounts of performance), but otherwise I wholeheartedly agree with you.
My current build I focused heavily on a decently powerful, but also “No Dollar Wasted” rig and already did much of this kind of research and consideration, so it’s good to see it all consolidated into one video I can send people who ask me about it.
It's a well known fact that Gaming chairs improves PC performance. The more expensive the better the performance.
But always prioritize RGB! Can't ever have enough RGB, even if your butt hurts. 😂
rgb butt warmer... quite the dream
The chair ergonomics will improve the user's health
the hell with performance i dont have backache anymore like with the ancient office chair. i'll take that from a £100 chair (i may have bought a white gaming chair at less than half price that nobody would buy except me, because everyone worried about it showing dirt - but the principle stands)
@@davidhines7592 Yeah, good purchase. Anything that improve your health, comfort, and life quality is a good buy.
Maybe you could save some money to buy "High-end" chairs like Herman Miller. They're better and more cozy than those gaming chairs.
Their used price werent that bad. Thats all from me.
I got lucky and got an Aus Thor II 1000-watt PSU a couple years ago for about $150, brand new. The best way to go expensive is to look out for the deals. Almost every component I use, I did so only for the deals. The Asus Ryujin III-360 CPU cooler, I got it for $180, new. The Asus X570-I, I received that new for around $200. My Samsung Neo G8 4k 32 inch monitor was a little pricey at $800 new. Worth it though. The point I'm making is that you can often find top notch parts for almost half off, brand new.
Yeah, shopping the sales is a great way to go. Problem is most new PC builders these days have some very specific and inflexible ideas about what they think they need.
However, I think one of the most egregious sins is wasting money on the lowest tier new GPU when you can have something that performs better for less money on the used market. And, with the sort of QC issues I've been seeing on new parts lately, it is arguably better to buy used, as long as the seller is reputable.
A novice builder probably won't know if their new GPU is performing 30% below the benchmark averages like I did with my last brand new GPU. I returned it immediately but if you don't thoroughly test your components, new or used, you can really get screwed over. Warranties are nice and all but 95% of the time when I have to RMA a component, I go and buy a replacement because I don't want to be without a working PC for 2 months. Then I have to sell the warranty replacement to recoup my money.
Bought an EVGA GT 1000w unit a few years ago when it went on discount for like $120. (shortly after the glut of pandemic PC demand when sales tanked)
I didn't really need it at the time. My 750W seasonic was fine. Then, my friend needed a relatively basic editing computer so I built him one with my 750W and used the new EVGA in mine. I eventually bought a 7900XTX, so I felt really comfortable in that choice.
More RAM = more Virtual Machines!
Maybe discuss simple VMs on a future episode. That would be awesome.
Yea but maybe not everyone uses VMs…
@@NitheshVG734 Yeah but if you were playing old windows games like some of us, you'd be running a combination of 98SE, XP and 7 VMs to skip the hassle of trying to get the games running on Windows 10/11
And for those, the video memory in the VM software will get said memory from the allocated RAM, so if you're running a 7 VM with 8gb of ram allocated, then allocate 2gb of it for vram, the VM itself will only use 6gb.
As you can imagine, running that VM on a 16GB Windows host is cutting it close.
I was also interested in the simplest VM setup possible. Would be a cool video
@@TimmyInTarky if you want simple go with VMware Workstation Player, and run as a personal/non-commercial license. That way you can use it for free. It's the one I use in Windows to run my 98/XP/7 VMs and while the emulated gpu performance varies depending on the guest OS (the one in the VM), I can confirm on 7 if you lock the VM display to 1024x768, give it 10gb ram with 2 allocated to vram (already overkill for games made in that era or Vista), you can run Crysis at 30FPS maxed out.
Yeah... It's powerful enough for that. If you wanna run more modern stuff your mileage may vary but if you're like me and looking for a simple solution that doesn't involve clogging up your desk with older computers to play old games, this is the one to suggest.
What do you plan on doing with VM software? Can give some suggestions
More cores on the CPU too.
yes, more of this, i like this exactly, because after a couple years some rules tend to change when it comes to guiding towards the right pc build at that time. nice
Yes! We need a deep dive on CPUs like cache amounts and levels and speed and bandwidths and such
We need follow up of this video
Yep!
You will, in 10 years
@@linkhatchet jokes on you, ill bow to the r/pcbuilds
My GTX 1660 Super has lasted me 3 years, best budget gpu ever.
I just bought a GTX 560Ti for a retro gaming rig that is still going strong after 12 years and who knows how many owners. Your 1660 Super will probably be working long after it is obsolete. If a GPU lasts that long, it is probably free from any defects and highly likely to go the distance.
I recently bought a 1660 ti laptop (& 9th Gen i7). And I honestly use it more than my desktop with a rx6950xt & Ryzen 9 5950x. That GPU is more than enough for pretty much everything, I agree. Plus I can do it all in bed 😎
that's the same specs as my Dell G7. It's the only computer I've used for 5 years now and I plan to continue that for 5 more.@@DailyDoseOfShrooms
gtx 1070 in 2018. goin on 6 years
My RX580 does me just fine
Apple 8GB RAM has entered the chat.
As someone who's looking to build his first desktop I really appreciated this video and it definitely helped me understand some thing a little bit better. So yes I would really like to see a part 2 and idk maybe a part 3?... ;)
Late 90s getting to 128mb ram was such a hype for us 😂
I remember playing Vice City on my 128 mb RAM Compaq laptop where the game occassionaly froze and went BRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR for like 20 seconds before going back to normal. Good times.
@Happy-295vram=/=ram
In the last few years I've also found it important to check the RAM you want against the MB QVL list. Used to be if you could plug in the RAM it would just work. Nowadays have run into times where that wasn't the case.
Doesn't seem to be much of an issue with cheap, slow RAM. But IDK about DDR5. It may be inherently more picky. I've only run into a RAM incompatibility issue once in the past 20 years or so and that was on a Core 2 Optiplex. In the old days (pre-ATX), you were limited to certain specific combinations of RAM modules.
Only matters when you are installing 4-sticks. If you are installing a paired set, it often doesn't matter.
After having my RAM turn out to be incompatible with my GPU due to a really weirdly unique timing issue, I started only getting RAM off the QVL instead of going for the crazy fast stuff. lol
Smart man.
Ram incompatible with a GPU?
Got a kit incompatible with my MOTHERBOARD. Not fun to troubleshoot...
I never buy expensive RAM. I just get cheap RAM, OC it and when it dies after a couple of years, I replace it.
Explain please, what was your main issue and how you finally pin pointed it because I seem to be in the same situation rn
I upgraded from 32 gb of RAM to 64 because I didn't like seeing 2 empty slots of RAM...
I did a major upgrade from a 2600X, 16GB RAM and an RTX 2060. To a 5800X3D, 32GB RAM and a 7900 XT. The CPU improved the 1% lows and the GPU lifted the framerate dramatically. The RAM just gave me a bigger buffer before calling on the SSD to help.
this +1
Both Windows & Linux use unallocated RAM as a cache to boost performance. The benefit varies depending on what your system is doing, but there is a benefit from "more RAM than you need" (if your budget can handle it). Even with today's super fast SSDs, it's about an order of magnitude faster to access cached file data vs. reading it from the drive.
That "Let's start OUT" in the beginning sure slipped out very... canadien :D Love it.
"8GB should be fine for web browsing" laughs in win 11 using 5GB before debloat
Damn, my windows 10 laptop with 32gb of ram use under 4gb right after booting.
@mrbobgamingmemes9558 yeah win 11 has more crap most people don't use, I miss 7's 2gb at idle 😂
I have an 8GB laptop for browsing, editing documents, and occasional gaming with emulators and visual novels.
Windows 11 has never used more than 6 - 7GB.
@@greatwavefan397 my PC with just Firefox and discord open uses 7GB lol
@@chrisk3127 I use Microsoft Edge at Maximum Efficiency mode; Discord has run smoothly on the browser ;p
Yes dont buy junk power supplies and cheap ram plane and simple buy a cheap case cheaper drive cables is using sata and spend the money on a gpu
Would deff love another one of these videos!
I''m a newbie trying to do my first build and honestly, this was super helpful. Please make another video.
Great video. Love this kind of content. Yes please to the dedicated expensive vs cheap GPU and drive video!
For CPUs though, you skipped "threads" specially since Intel removed it for some CPUs. So if strictly CPU 8 threads is minimum. (Note: 4 threads are still useable BUT only for basic tasks like office apps and browsing)
This effectively eliminates the misconception that more money guarantees improvement across the board. Performance is more about balance and understanding what you're using your PC for.
As a gamer on linux, more cores makes steam games boot faster as it processes the vulkan shaders faster
I did not know that! How does that work?
@@greatwavefan397Steam pre optimizes the Vulkan shaders on Linux, gets rid of a lot of studdering issues. Otherwise those shaders would be getting compiled during game play. So the more cores the faster it can compile the shaders.
@@EvertG8086 IIRC, emulators also have that option :D
@@greatwavefan397 Yea, but this is for PC games.
@@EvertG8086 Interesting 🤔
With the number of videos on this and the main LTT channel talking about virtual machines and containers, I’m honestly shocked at not calling out that use-case and developers as a reason for more memory. The focus on “content creators” in this section is a disservice to wider, more established communities that have practical use-cases here.
You forget to ,mention the power supply rating, something I learnt only a few years ago. If your pushing the performance constantly like gaming or visual work you should get a 80 plus rating of bronze or better!
If it doesn't have a rating, skip it all together.
Would be interesting about GPU's.
I managed to get a 3060 with 12GB ram last year (as others were just too expensive and I just bought a house) and so far it runs every game on max settings.
Intel is the only one with E-Cores, AMD uses regular size cores with less cache (i.e. compact cores) so you can cram more into the same space as full cache cores.
Man i would love to see another part to this video or even a really indepth one
1:00 above 32gig is also necessary for IT work because we need to deploy a lab environment with numerous virtual machines to learn and test things. And VMs are RAM hungry.
Yes, you should do explainers about cheap vs more expensive Keyboards, Mouse, GPU’s, Displays, and Storage (SSD vs Spinning Hard Drives for non-System Drive application as well as different types of SSD memory cell types for System Drives such as QLC, TLC, MLC, and SLC.
Talkin about just the drives is more complex than ppl think. Read intensive, write intensive, response time, $/gb...
@@DaBombtasi it is but you can boil it down to most important factors that one night need to consider for specific needs cases for noon-enterprise use such as content creation, media library storage, backup/archiving, game playing, etc. They could cover storage as a separate topic vs keyboards, mouse, and displays.
More videos on explaining different function in choosing a right build for us.
Make a follow up! Include RGB Fans, GPU/NVME storage, optical drives, and additional bays for stuffs!
My 4090 keeps my frames high and my room warm, so it serves multiple purposes and is well worth the cost to me c:
It will also do so for far longer than a cheaper video card.
Sometimes I run folding at home to keep the (pet) rats warm
You didn't even watch the whole video and you made a comment.
You're capping by saying you have a 4090
@@SorakaOTP462 why do you care?
I really want to see a video about how useful a GPU is for a non-gaming and 3D-related tasks.
They can allow for more powerful hardware acceleration for programs that have an option, like web browsers, social media apps, and some video or audio editors.
@@greatwavefan397 Yep, especially the video editors. But even for just playing video, the cpu will decode the video drawing much more power then a dedicated chip inside the GPU, this includes the iGPU as well if you have one.
@@EvertG8086 So in some cases, a dGPU can be more efficient than an iGPU? Or might this depend on the components or setup?
64gb can also be useful for virtualization, for example running Linux and Windows in Parallel
3:00 Undervolting can also increase performance, as a lower voltage produces less heat. This creates headroom for your chips to deliver a bit more performance while thermal throttling, or may keep you below certain thermal boost limits. But whats stable underload may crash randomly at idle. Test all kinds of scenarios!
I haven't even considered that. I'll have to see how undervolting works for my gaming system. I don't really play many games that really push my current rig.
@@ShadeKoopa Well, to get you started:
In general bios of the motherboard is going to give voltage on the safer side and a lot of it. If you can find an option in the bios to treat your chip as 'typical' and try that, it can already save you so much heat and create headroom.
If you have an intel system, intel XTU works well for me. Try the AI overclocking tool, and then reduce the power limits PL1 and PL2 to whatever matches your cooling.
On the AMD side I prefer 1usmus Hydra over Ryzen Master, but you wanna find the optimal setting for EDC in PBO (you can find the max setting if you let the mobo decide on the limits in bios). And after finding a PBO setting you like, you can tweak Curve Optimizer, which is the actual undervolt (and adds more frequency).
The 'downside' of modern chips is that you have so many cores and settings to test.
Currently undervolting my 14700K after an overclock, and so far I know of 1 'weak' P core (-0.02V) and am still looking for the limits on the other cores (seem at least capable of -0.04V).
Got a 7950X3D that is more efficient under full load, but will crash with the same CO settings on idle, because the chip boosts too high with too little voltage. So you end up changing only a few numbers at a time, narrowing down which core is at fault.
The 5900X was much easier, since a WHEA error crash would just tell you which core was the 'faulty' one. Reduce CO on that core and test some more.
Use OCCT for stability testing. You can tell it to cycle loads through one thread by thread - you can set it to halt on errors - and if it crashes it will show you its last state on next boot, allowing you to figure out which core crashed.
Undervolting is a looong process though, since you need to test so much. Have fun!
Definitely a new video for powerdraw components
i think a good followup is WHEN to buy. Middle of last year was a great time to buy RAM and NVME storage. NVME prices started shooting up in January and now the 2 TB NVMEs I bought for 70 each sell for 112 each.
For memory capacity, I love the freedom that having twice the capacity I would need for largest individual task. Having more means, simply not caring about leaving things open when doing memory hungry things. Its more about tool for multitasking. And with DDR5 having more than 2 RAM sticks will make your ram clock lower, thus adding more later is worse value than getting exactly two sticks that you needed in originally.
please! more components in a follow-up video :)
Quality is first... My first build is 7 years old and still going strong. All quality parts which do cost more.
3:50 Cores also matter if you run the same APP multiple times at the same time ... like 7-Zip to create ten 7z different files at the same time, each one for its own folder / subfolders set.
0:00 nobody has been conditioned to believe that crap. Especially now after the invention of RTX as a whole.
Yeah make a follow up video. A lot of people definitely need to know buying a GT 1030 is a mistake.
pizza tower gpu
I'd love to see a dedicated GPU buying video!
I would really like a "Is it worth it?" NVME storage video. For instance 980 pro vs Gammixx Blade etc
I maxed out the data on that drive 1 time and despite samsung software saying the drive has good health, has never been the same. Where the drive just freezes or loses data while writting.
@@atruceforbruce5388The drive can be in great health while feeling worse because every operation has to overwrite old bytes
Also very important addition to power supply, many of cheap units have higher wattage, cause they can deliver more power on unnecessary 3,3v/5v rails, instead of 12v rail, which is more important, since it is used by CPU/GPU/Storage.
yes please, follow up video on all the other PC components
@0:48 i'm watching this video with more than 100 tabs opened (basically music to review)
Remember when a chipset was actually a set of chips
Then talking to Brits would be hard because they'd call it a crispset.
Yes I do.
Or a north bridge and a south bridge
X670E actually consists of a set of chips
What kind of chips? Lay's?
More RAM (and CPU cores) is also good for virtual machines
Having gone from a Asus ROG X470-F because the B-channel RAM slots died, to a MSI Pro B550M-VC wifi, which cost half as much, I can confirm there is no point getting a "higher" quality mobo. It handles a 5800X3D and the VRM doesn't go higher than 50c.
When the mobo wants to die, it will die, cheap or expensive, it doesn't matter. What does matter is who is easier to RMA with.
I never want to go through Asus RMA, if I can help it.
Not always performance but a bit of reliability
This was great! I had to look all over the net to find this info when I built my first PC so this is helpful to have it all in one place
Do a follow up about whether it's worth the motherboard and case size (and then a mini ITX build guide)
Very good video going over many possible things to consider with a PC.... I would love to see the followup as well!
Small piece of advice, sometimes its better to save a bit more for the higer end motherboard in the same family, what i mean is that if you aim for a z660 because its enough, try and go for the same brand z690 and you'll get a smoother performance for a bit more money, its worth it
I used to run 3 way SLI with gtx 480s lol. Talk about heat.
Thanks Riley for the great tips!
I thought this was going to be about low-end vs high-end brands and components, and not just about paying excess for more cores or speed because you might not actually need them.
I can't stop staring at the two bright orange dots that on on his shirt. Sticks out more then the others
Server SATA SSDs. Sweet spot is about 2x the price of regular ones. You get better handling of power spikes, power loss and also three times the amount of writes. The 1tb Samsung evo one have 700tbw, whereas the slightly more expensive server micron ones have three times that.
Part 2 needed
I do a lot of workstation tasks (Programming, 3D rendering, AI, PCB design with high pin count) so I have a pretty beefy PC, it's mostly future-proofed except my CPU.
I game, edit videos, study, use 10 virtual machines at the same time on 3 monitors
64gb ddr3, gtx 1080ti, mac pro
what
I spent a lot of time researching the best bang for my buck components without sacrificing longevity. It paid off nicely. I'm still rocking my MSI B450 Tomahawk Max MB, R5 3600, Asus 1070, Antec Silent case. EVGA 550w Gold PSU
this is the best video i have ever watched and im not even finished
I'd love a follow up video. This should help me convince some people to save their money
Forget modelling work... If you start a fluid simulation with openfoam you can kiss your ram goodbye and start resource hog your friends ram and cpu cores as well. I believe open mpi it was called.
I don’t think it’s good to running openfoam simulation locally. Perhaps a testing to see if runs. I think it is more important when analyzing with paraview, where your mesh is big.
1:38 - For certain games, and applications like video editiing, rendering, and streaming. - please
Got a 14900KS, Strix 4080 OC, Corsair DDR5 6400mhz (32gb), Tuf Gaming Z790 Plus Wifi, Asus Thor 1200w Psu, Strix LC II 360 AIO, all in a Tuf Gaming GT 501 Case. It's beautiful.
I usually pair motherboard with CPUs that handle the PCIE lanes. A GPU, m2 slots, sata, all add up. And while lanes may not be all used simultaneously it's annoying to have it throttle/split. I mean data hoarding is fun.
It’s good to mention you can buy very fast RAM but be limited by your motherboard. Then you basically bought fast RAM just to run not that fast
I would love to see a follow up video with GPU, storage and cooling options.
Yes, follow up video, please! We had the main course, now we want dessert
Me living in big house alone with 24 core i9 😭
RAM: this might be controversial, but I simply buy the best frequency/latency combo that's still covered by the JEDEC specifications (and works with the CPU/MB combo). That also leads to always getting "naked" RAM sticks without any useless "heat spreaders" and/or RGB. No XMP or OC needed, they work OOTB 100% of the time.
PSU: Enermax has a great web calculator where you simply select what other components you use and it spits out a recommended wattage. I usually take that result, round up to the next 50W tier and add another 50W as "buffer". For my last 2 builds that turned out to be a 600-700W PSU. Spending a few [currency] more for a model with a better "80+" label can be worth it if the system won't run at high load most of the time.
MB: I usually pre-filter for the formfactor and socket I want/need, sort by price and then work my way up from the cheapest board until I find 2-3 that have all the ports/features I want. And from those I then pick the one that has the least unnecessary extra stuff (like WiFi...). That way I've so far always gotten boards that cost me
Every time I build a computer for a friend I explain what they need for today and for tomorrow. They are surprised when I tell them not to buy the most expensive parts, but to but the parts that fit what their workload is. I end up saving them tons of money and they get a great system for what they need. Most of them are not gamers, developers, or content creators. Just want to browse the web, check email, and run some office apps. I do not have them "cheap out" on the parts though.
Yes, it does! Have to justify it, since I just bought a 7800X3D, B650E mobo and 32GB DDR5 tightly tuned memory!
Sounds like one of my dream PCs. That build is very solid.
What board and ram exactly you have, how is running so far, please, because I'm planning these days to get 7800x3d and can't decide yet on those two,,,the rest I already have from AM4?
Even Windows does use excess RAM for caching your storage. I'd like to see snappiness testing for RAM capacity, if feasible.
For consumer PSU's, the power efficiency peaks at about 50% load. It's different for every PSU but for example a RM1000 (1000w) is 93% efficient at 400watts but is 89% at 900 watts, and at 50-100 watts it's 80-85%.
Not only saves you energy, but it's less waste heat being created
Would definitely love part 2
Another thing that lots of RAM is good for is if you do a lot of stuff with virtualization, using an OS like Qubes or a bunch of virtual boxes or such. That's why I generally go for 64 gigs of RAM when I can.
imo the speed increase of smaller, faster ram will never outweigh the slowdown you'll experience when your ram overfills and resorts to page file 😭
I also tend to overspend a bit on my peripherals because I'm going for a specific aesthetic.
I had a gaming rig with a mid quality psu, some day when my brother was playing a game on it, It literally exploded. lucky for me no other parts of my rig got broken except that psu.
Watch those high end PSU sales! I got my EVGA Supernova 1600W G+ for $140. Even with a 3080Ti and a 14700K I'm drawing
"...more Watson your power supply."
"My what, Holmes?"
I would argue that PSUs are, or at least they were. In the 90's cheap PSUs were liable to explode. A lesson I learned the hard way when my PSU blew, and took my motherboard and CPU with it.
Please make an in depth video about how to set up cpu fan curves.
Interesting, this is not really what my experience is. I never had any issues with power supplies, but to spend on a motherboard makes it so much easier if you want to expand the functionality of the machine later.