Hey, Thanks for the comment! That’s a great question! Normally, according to the ASTM standards, these kinds of spare parts like nuts, bolts, screws, etc… are only intended to be used once, all these mentioned above carry a specified torque setting and once that torque limit is reached, it would produce some stress to that part, reaching that “stress level” over and over again would result in a catastrophic failure at some point. To be crystal clear, as you tighten the nut the bolt will compress the two parts together. The bolt itself has an internal reaction force equal to the amplitude of the compression force, but the bolt itself is in tension. To get the greatest clamping force out of the bolt we would tighten it up to the yield point. Any more force and the bolt will enter the plastic region and permanently deform. In practice, engineers don't design that way. Since any additional force will begin to yield the bolt, you want to give yourself some margin for error. Engineers select a bolt tension that is somewhere between the calculable minimum functional clamping force and the yielding force... In conclusion: replacing a single nut that cost just a few cents doesn’t hurt anyone and would always give more peace of mind and will be safer than reusing an old nut or bolt that has already received lots of stress! Most of the time you can reused a small part that doesn’t require an enormous amount of torque like is with these important nuts that are constantly receiving stress not only from the engine. Peace✌
@@TheScooterBud While all this is true (I have been an auto mechanic for 41 years) in the case of the variator nut on a Vespa, if it is not over tightened, it can safely be used more than once. I have reused this nut a couple of times myself when replacing a belt in a situation where I did not have a torque wrench available. When I installed it the first time, I used an electric engraver to make corresponding marks on both the nut and outer half of the variator pully. After removing the nut to replace the belt, I simply tightened it back so the previously made marks aligned. This is not PERFECTLY accurate as far as torque goes, but it will be very close. The torque spec on that nut on my 2006 GT200, which has the Leader engine, is 55.2-61.1 lbs-ft, which leaves a 5.9 lbs-ft margin. Many people simply use an impact driver to both remove and reinstall this nut, and while the Vespa service manual says to replace the nut every time it is removed, most people don't, and I have yet to hear of a failure caused by doing that. I belong to several scooter forums, and it is just not common practice to even torque that nut, on any brand scooter. Obviously it should be properly torqued, but as long as you get it close, it doesn't seem to be a problem.
@@geraldscott4302 Hey! thanks for your comment! While I complete agreed with you, and I have done it to multiple times without any issue or failure in all my Vespas, if you can afford the nut and the torque wrench, theres no need why not better to be safe than risk it, same thing with people adding loctite when is not actually needed or require by the manual. I think is optional depending on your mechanic OCD lol for me is always better to be "more safe" than "more risk" without needed. Peace ✌
Great video I’m just about to do mine . As I’m riding from the midlands uk though France into Spain in June, do you need to replace the shoes(sliders) ?
Thanks for the feedback and the support! Appreciate it!🤟 That would depend more on your riding style, the riding conditions, and what you feel comfortable with, even tho Piaggio recommends changing the belt every 6,000 miles and to replace the shoes and rollers every 3,000 miles, I have always done my whole "CVT" service every 9,000 miles all together at once. I ride my Vespa as I stole it all the time, for example, I live in Florida (no hills whatsoever and very hot weather) and I haven't experienced any issues. keep in mind I'm not a "graduated experienced mechanical engineer" for you to rely on my personal opinion but I have been doing this for the last 20,000 miles with no problem at all and without noticing any risk or damage to the bike and its parts. Peace✌
Hey, thanks for the comment, surely they are NOT the same. lol Theses torque setting comes from the mechanic manual and they refer to: 1. "The Drive Pulley Nut" is the nut that hold the variator in place along with the corresponding washers. - Locking torques (N*m) Drive pulley nut 75 ÷ 83 2. "The Drive Pulley Shaft Nut" is the one that hold the clutch in place with the CVT cover along with the corresponding washer as well. - Locking torques (N*m) Transmission cover screws 11 ÷ 13 Driven pulley shaft nut 54 ÷ 60 hopes that clears up the confusion! Peace✌
For Hilly areas.. is it okay or can I use a lil shorter belt thn the stock !? What about the wideness of the belt ? Alil shorter and lil fatter , wider will be okay ? & Lastly are all variator , clutch size system same ? ( The hole especially)
I don’t have much experience with “hilly setups” but I have always stuck with the OEM Belt because is the one that last longer. I believe they are all the same from the 150cc to the 300cc, the 50cc engines are a bit smaller and I don’t think any clutch from a large frame Vespa would fit.
Hey! Thanks for the comment! Sanding down the variator when servicing the transmission is a practice it's been done for years by many, its intended to break the glaze on the aluminum that was done by the heat and friction of the belt, sanding down the part would break that glaze bring back a little more friction and better grip to the belt for the first few thousand miles after the service, it just give a better feeling and it help keep the scooter in better shape. IMO. Peace✌
It’s the same, just personal preference. Since Piaggio is made in EU, all the manual specification are in metrics, meaning that they use Newton-meters (Nm) and since I'm here in USA, they only use here foot-pounds (ft/lbs). 😵💫 One foot-pound (ft/lb) is equal to 1.356 newton-meters (Nm). To convert newton-meters (Nm) to foot-pounds (ft/lbs) all you need to do is divide your figure (Nm) by 1.356. Peace✌
@@jasonwojcicki3667 If you just bought the scooter second-handed, I would do these right away or as soon as possible, even if the seller tells you when was the last time was serviced, you never know how it was ridden, how long its been sitting and all that, so for you to know exactly what milage you have on these parts and keep track for your next services, that's the best you can do. On my GTV, I usually replace the belt, rollers, and sliders every 9,000 miles, all together, but Piaggio Engineers recommend changing the Rollers and sliders every 3,000 miles and the belt every 6,000 miles, as well as having the oil changed every 3,000 miles. I only do the oil change every 3,000 or 4,000 max and then do all the transmission at 9,000 miles, rollers might start to make a rattle noise at around their "service life" 3,000 miles, but that's very common on these bikes, and is normal to ride like that, if the rattle noise is something you can't live with it, then you can just do the roller and slider every 3,000 once you start to hear that rattling noise gets worst. but you'll see that once you take your variator apart you could also do the belt since its already out, and most people would just do the belt but the OEM belts last a long time so I will rather trust and extend their life than waste more than half of it, so I prefer to extend the life of the rollers instead of wasting the belt if that makes sense. Peace✌
@@TheScooterBud makes sense bud, I have a little rattle from when warming up from idle. I was going to put new rollers, sliders and belt so I knew where I was I did oil change/filter a couple of months ago when I got her. GT L EURO 3 I have a little hesitation when it comes to a hill, when I stop at a junction and start. (Not bogging down) Just if it takes a little bit to respond to the throttle. All air, carb, and filter is ok... Did a valve clearance not that long back. So I take it as something to do with clutch, varriator, ect
@@jasonwojcicki3667 Great! Yes, if you have take good care of all that and you're over 12,000 miles it might be a good time to change your clutch or service it, that rattle noise could also be coming from the back plate of the clutch, take it apart from the CVT cover and check the condition of it, check the oil seals and make sure everything is nice and smooth as the bearing inside the shaft. I did that recently on my GTV and installed the Polini clutch with the S.I.P Drive Pulley you can watch that video here: ua-cam.com/video/1jVmGFHmsN0/v-deo.html For the "hesitation" maybe playing with the weight on the roller might make a difference but I don have much experience with that. Peace✌
Hey! Thanks for the comment, mm I don’t think so, that’s not even what the manual saids, it should be between 75~83Nm and keep in mind I’m using ft/lbs. To convert 83Nm to ft/lbs, divide 83 by 1.356 or multiply by 0.738. 83 newton meter = 61.2094 foot pounds. Peace✌️
I don't quite get why you need to replace the nut with a new one a nut is a nut right just tourque it correctly and all is ok ... no?
Hey, Thanks for the comment! That’s a great question!
Normally, according to the ASTM standards, these kinds of spare parts like nuts, bolts, screws, etc… are only intended to be used once, all these mentioned above carry a specified torque setting and once that torque limit is reached, it would produce some stress to that part, reaching that “stress level” over and over again would result in a catastrophic failure at some point.
To be crystal clear, as you tighten the nut the bolt will compress the two parts together. The bolt itself has an internal reaction force equal to the amplitude of the compression force, but the bolt itself is in tension. To get the greatest clamping force out of the bolt we would tighten it up to the yield point. Any more force and the bolt will enter the plastic region and permanently deform.
In practice, engineers don't design that way. Since any additional force will begin to yield the bolt, you want to give yourself some margin for error.
Engineers select a bolt tension that is somewhere between the calculable minimum functional clamping force and the yielding force...
In conclusion: replacing a single nut that cost just a few cents doesn’t hurt anyone and would always give more peace of mind and will be safer than reusing an old nut or bolt that has already received lots of stress! Most of the time you can reused a small part that doesn’t require an enormous amount of torque like is with these important nuts that are constantly receiving stress not only from the engine.
Peace✌
@@TheScooterBud well that answered the question 💪😉
@@TheScooterBud While all this is true (I have been an auto mechanic for 41 years) in the case of the variator nut on a Vespa, if it is not over tightened, it can safely be used more than once. I have reused this nut a couple of times myself when replacing a belt in a situation where I did not have a torque wrench available. When I installed it the first time, I used an electric engraver to make corresponding marks on both the nut and outer half of the variator pully. After removing the nut to replace the belt, I simply tightened it back so the previously made marks aligned. This is not PERFECTLY accurate as far as torque goes, but it will be very close. The torque spec on that nut on my 2006 GT200, which has the Leader engine, is 55.2-61.1 lbs-ft, which leaves a 5.9 lbs-ft margin. Many people simply use an impact driver to both remove and reinstall this nut, and while the Vespa service manual says to replace the nut every time it is removed, most people don't, and I have yet to hear of a failure caused by doing that. I belong to several scooter forums, and it is just not common practice to even torque that nut, on any brand scooter. Obviously it should be properly torqued, but as long as you get it close, it doesn't seem to be a problem.
@@geraldscott4302 Hey! thanks for your comment!
While I complete agreed with you, and I have done it to multiple times without any issue or failure in all my Vespas, if you can afford the nut and the torque wrench, theres no need why not better to be safe than risk it, same thing with people adding loctite when is not actually needed or require by the manual. I think is optional depending on your mechanic OCD lol for me is always better to be "more safe" than "more risk" without needed.
Peace ✌
Stretch nut n washer
Thank you for all your videos, I hope can do it all my self at home.
Thank you so much for the support! I really appreciate it you 🤙! I’m sure you will! Good luck! And if anything, just ask! Cheers.
How deep can the channels be on vbelt pulley? Do those channels affect performance?
Hey thank you very much,,,
Great explanation and nice video to keep up with.
Will attempt mine now 👍
Hey! Thank you for the comment and the support! Really appreciate it! Good luck!
Peace✌️
What is the use of the bearing bro?
Great video I’m just about to do mine . As I’m riding from the midlands uk though France into Spain in June, do you need to replace the shoes(sliders) ?
I always do when servicing the transmission, in only cost a few bucks.. why not? Hahaha
Thanks, very good vid info. Best Rutin mileage to suggest for service CVT sir, tq
Thanks for the feedback and the support! Appreciate it!🤟
That would depend more on your riding style, the riding conditions, and what you feel comfortable with, even tho Piaggio recommends changing the belt every 6,000 miles and to replace the shoes and rollers every 3,000 miles, I have always done my whole "CVT" service every 9,000 miles all together at once. I ride my Vespa as I stole it all the time, for example, I live in Florida (no hills whatsoever and very hot weather) and I haven't experienced any issues.
keep in mind I'm not a "graduated experienced mechanical engineer" for you to rely on my personal opinion but I have been doing this for the last 20,000 miles with no problem at all and without noticing any risk or damage to the bike and its parts.
Peace✌
Brilliant job, thanks 😎
Thank you for your comment and support! ✌️
On the tourque settings you have drive pulley nut and driven pulley shaft nut I'm confused surely they are the same
Hey, thanks for the comment, surely they are NOT the same. lol
Theses torque setting comes from the mechanic manual and they refer to:
1. "The Drive Pulley Nut" is the nut that hold the variator in place along with the corresponding washers.
- Locking torques (N*m) Drive pulley nut 75 ÷ 83
2. "The Drive Pulley Shaft Nut" is the one that hold the clutch in place with the CVT cover along with the corresponding washer as well.
- Locking torques (N*m)
Transmission cover screws 11 ÷ 13 Driven pulley shaft nut 54 ÷ 60
hopes that clears up the confusion! Peace✌
I suggest you take your Vespa to a suitable mechanic 😉
@@richardrichard5409 it's not a vespa 🙂
@@collin6238 I think the clue maybe in the Title 🤔😉
Buenas noches, cómo se resetea o se borra del tablero el testigo de cambio de correa después de cambiarla?
Buenos noches! No tengo idea, nunca he trabajo en eso nuevos modelos, sorry! 😬
excellent, just about to do the same service to my gts 300
🙌👏🤘
For Hilly areas.. is it okay or can I use a lil shorter belt thn the stock !? What about the wideness of the belt ?
Alil shorter and lil fatter , wider will be okay ?
& Lastly are all variator , clutch size system same ? ( The hole especially)
I don’t have much experience with “hilly setups” but I have always stuck with the OEM Belt because is the one that last longer.
I believe they are all the same from the 150cc to the 300cc, the 50cc engines are a bit smaller and I don’t think any clutch from a large frame Vespa would fit.
@@TheScooterBud means. .. it's safe if I go alil longer or shorter thn the stock .. according to my preference!?
Oh that what about that scratches on variator ! After using Sand paper
Hey! Thanks for the comment!
Sanding down the variator when servicing the transmission is a practice it's been done for years by many, its intended to break the glaze on the aluminum that was done by the heat and friction of the belt, sanding down the part would break that glaze bring back a little more friction and better grip to the belt for the first few thousand miles after the service, it just give a better feeling and it help keep the scooter in better shape. IMO.
Peace✌
45 ft lbs or NM like it shows on your specs at the bottom
It’s the same, just personal preference.
Since Piaggio is made in EU, all the manual specification are in metrics, meaning that they use Newton-meters (Nm) and since I'm here in USA, they only use here foot-pounds (ft/lbs). 😵💫
One foot-pound (ft/lb) is equal to 1.356 newton-meters (Nm). To convert newton-meters (Nm) to foot-pounds (ft/lbs) all you need to do is divide your figure (Nm) by 1.356.
Peace✌
@@TheScooterBud thanks bud,
What would be some symptoms of needing new rollers, sliders and belt
@@jasonwojcicki3667 If you just bought the scooter second-handed, I would do these right away or as soon as possible, even if the seller tells you when was the last time was serviced, you never know how it was ridden, how long its been sitting and all that, so for you to know exactly what milage you have on these parts and keep track for your next services, that's the best you can do.
On my GTV, I usually replace the belt, rollers, and sliders every 9,000 miles, all together, but Piaggio Engineers recommend changing the Rollers and sliders every 3,000 miles and the belt every 6,000 miles, as well as having the oil changed every 3,000 miles.
I only do the oil change every 3,000 or 4,000 max and then do all the transmission at 9,000 miles, rollers might start to make a rattle noise at around their "service life" 3,000 miles, but that's very common on these bikes, and is normal to ride like that, if the rattle noise is something you can't live with it, then you can just do the roller and slider every 3,000 once you start to hear that rattling noise gets worst. but you'll see that once you take your variator apart you could also do the belt since its already out, and most people would just do the belt but the OEM belts last a long time so I will rather trust and extend their life than waste more than half of it, so I prefer to extend the life of the rollers instead of wasting the belt if that makes sense.
Peace✌
@@TheScooterBud makes sense bud,
I have a little rattle from when warming up from idle.
I was going to put new rollers, sliders and belt so I knew where I was I did oil change/filter a couple of months ago when I got her.
GT L EURO 3
I have a little hesitation when it comes to a hill, when I stop at a junction and start. (Not bogging down)
Just if it takes a little bit to respond to the throttle.
All air, carb, and filter is ok...
Did a valve clearance not that long back.
So I take it as something to do with clutch, varriator, ect
@@jasonwojcicki3667 Great! Yes, if you have take good care of all that and you're over 12,000 miles it might be a good time to change your clutch or service it, that rattle noise could also be coming from the back plate of the clutch, take it apart from the CVT cover and check the condition of it, check the oil seals and make sure everything is nice and smooth as the bearing inside the shaft.
I did that recently on my GTV and installed the Polini clutch with the S.I.P Drive Pulley you can watch that video here: ua-cam.com/video/1jVmGFHmsN0/v-deo.html
For the "hesitation" maybe playing with the weight on the roller might make a difference but I don have much experience with that.
Peace✌
I don't remove the rear foot peg as it's not required to be removed AND it's hard to get to re-fitted correctly too 😊😁
For me is necessary because I have the "Foot Rest Extenders" on the way to remove the side panels. Thanks
@@TheScooterBud Good to know, as nothing restricting side cover and clutch cover removal with standard rear pegs left in place 😁
The centre bearing function
Can you ask next door to turn down that noisy music it’s hard to hear you 🙉🙉
😂😂
You got the drive shaft screw and clutch screw torque wrong, the drive shaft screw torque should be 54~60Nm
Hey! Thanks for the comment, mm I don’t think so, that’s not even what the manual saids, it should be between 75~83Nm and keep in mind I’m using ft/lbs.
To convert 83Nm to ft/lbs, divide 83 by 1.356 or multiply by 0.738.
83 newton meter = 61.2094 foot pounds.
Peace✌️