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Aye! That's me! Thanks for featuring my comment and further testing the question that I had to obtain a sure-fire answer. Good to know that I can install future shelves with the screw from beneath or above and still have it hold up some significant weight. Also, the caulking is an excellent idea, and I'm flabbergasted how I didn't think of that! I'm going to use that one next.
Thanks Blake, super helpful video. And thanks so much for the link to your tools page on your website. Us newbies really appreciate it! Your videos are very easy to follow, direct, to the point. Much-much appreciative.
Thanks for sharing the video. I wanted to talk physics behind keep hole placement for top of the shelf back bottom of the shelf. Mounting on through the top provides a higher resistive angular moment, putting the board in tension vs compression. Moving the downward force further out to the edge, you will find that the shelf supports more weight if holes are mounted from the top vs the bottom. Would love to see this test.
HOW about the floating shelf into knotty pine tongue and groove on the wall? I'd like to use a 1 X 6". This is to support my Dad's military flat in it's triangular case! Not even 5 lbs.
I had the same question from the 1st video but then I also thought about it and I think shelf would be much stronger if the screws are pointing downwards.. To should do another test in both direction..
I'd love to have a tutorial for dry walls (plaster)! Currently we have IKEA shelves and we used anchors for plaster walls. They're not pretty and also quite bulky. I'd love to have nice wooden floating shelves one day.
Definitely interested in you trying the same thing in concrete or cinder block wall, I’ve only ever drilled into one once and it took ages so I haven’t bothered since, perhaps was using the wrong drill bit? Subbed.
I am going to make some assumptions, none of them are intended to slight. Often people try to drill holes in concrete with a normal drill and/or wood or steel drill bit. to drill concrete you need a drill capable of being a hammer drill, A concrete drill bit of the correct size for the particular screw you use, and depending on the length an impact driver. Concrete bits are specially made with a particular tip which when used with a hammer drill chisels the hole rather than cutting like metal and wood. There are sort of 2 hammer drill types and the kid like an XRP dewalt cordless hammer drill are only good for small (3/16s is a lot of work), quite a slow process, extremely loud, and burns bits if you don't take your time rendering them useless. The other thing is when drilling long concrete screws (we often call them tapcons at work, even though it's a brand name like kleenex but whatever) Turning them in with a drill often snaps them right off because of the constant torque. Getting a good result from a concrete screw without access to quite nice tools can be a difficult task and a slow process. I've revisited lots of failed concrete fasteners in my line of work and when people don't take care they fail quite prematurely, due to the nature of concrete.
@@xald1234114 thank you for the information! I think it was probably just poor tools, it was some years ago when fitting a tv bracket and we borrows the neighbour’s drill and used some cheap masonry drill bit which probably wasn’t up to the task. It did take a long time, if I need to drill into blocks again I’ll use better tools.
All of these are great tips! Thanks for taking the time to give your knowledge to others! Yes, good tools do make a difference but keep in mind mid grade tools will do great a most tasks! Check out this video for more info on that: ua-cam.com/video/y_ANm7fS4wc/v-deo.html I may make a video in the future going over how to install these in concrete! Let me know if that’s something that would interest you!
@@Nailedityt I would definitely be interested and I think many others would, I know it’s common in the USA to have timber houses but in most of Europe we use bricks/blocks, even our partition walls between bedrooms are brick/block in most cases. I’m not sure why there’s such a difference, you’d think it would be the other way around, you get insane weather in the USA like hurricanes, but we don’t, who knows.
How deep can you go with the shelf & it still be sturdy? Not that I’m planning to put anything crazy heavy but I’ve been researching DIY floating shelves & while a lot of them are nice, none of them look like they can support any real weight. I’m wanting to put floating shelves under a wall mounted tv to hold multiple game consoles so I can have all of them out, hooked up, & ready to go at a moment’s notice. 😂 Some of the systems are light and I don’t worry about them causing a shelf to fail such as my NES or SNES but I don’t want to risk some of the heavier ones I own (I’m looking at you chunky ps3 & Atari 2600😒) unless I’m sure it’s going to be sturdy. Even store bought shelves I’ve looked at don’t seem as reliable what you’ve done. I would cry if my shelves collapsed & trashed my game systems.😭
These should hold all that stuff! As for the depth, I havent tested anything past 12" deep! I probably wouldnt want you to go any deeper than that though!
What if I wanted to make a “floating shelf” 3’long x 14” wide , idc how tk rly. Just to hold some plastic helmets. Each weighing max of 2.25 lbs. marvel legends replicas. Iron man helmet , spidy helm, black panther helm. I can get atleast two maybe three studs .
I need to move a shelf I put up using this method, except I can’t get any of the screws out! Because I used the screws you suggested they’re all stuck on the smooth portion of the screw, spinning around endlessly in the pocket hole. Any suggestions?
2x12 is getting pretty wide! Can you get away with a 2x10? The 2x12 might still work but it just depends on how much weight you are trying to have on the shelf! I worry about it sagging to much in the front!
Just a test tip for your garage. -Failure eventually is a given. Do you actually want a 5 gallon of any liquid hitting the floor out of control? MY answer is "no".- -In future tests featuring possible failure may I suggest first that the item be solid? NO Powder, liquids, coins, etc. Nothing that- -will take hours to clean up, or cannot be cleaned up. Stacks of cement blocks are best. Second, suspend them. Make a frame- -to suspend them or use the ceiling trusses. Lastly, how about a ladder on each side of the shelf, and a scaffold underneath of a- -few 2x4's.- On second thought, Brighter paint is a better test until failure option. Make sure you always test to failure with 20 gallons, open top containers, and 3 camera wide angle shots, forget the bright ideas of not making a mess. Viral videos of failure work better.
I think that would be fine! Go check out this video, this is what I put in my wife’s salon! It’s probably close to what you are thinking about doing! If you have more questions feel free to ask! ua-cam.com/video/5Url3QXQHaI/v-deo.html
It will not be as simple screwing it in a concrete or brick wall. You will have to use plugs which in turn means you need to figure out the exact point and most importantly the angle that the screw will go in so that the plugs are placed correctly to receive the screw. So it needs some extra work and is definitely not as trivial as screwing into the studs.
@@Nailedityt I think easiest is to use a piece of wood as template. You first screw in the wood so you get a footprint of the exact screw angle. Then you put this piece of wood against the wall and use it as a guide to drill the hole in the wall.
Thanks for this! I think with the newer engineering in fasteners like the GRKs, you get such a strong connection that you can screw to the underside without any issue for daily use. It would make sense that if you're screwing from the top you get a counter sink style pressure. This is a great video that shows engineering in a retaining wall that relates a bit to how this screw functions - ua-cam.com/video/iDzp6xEAT2I/v-deo.html.
That’s is an interesting video! I would love to be able to figure out the math and see if there truly is a difference between mounting it on the bottom vs the top! Similar to your example video with the wall facing with or against the marbles!
Hey guys, if you want to support the channel, go check out Lion Energy for 10% off!
lionenergy.com/discount/nailedit?redirect=%2Fnailedit%3Fafmc%3Dnailedit%26Dnailedit%26Dleaddyno%26Daffiliate
Aye! That's me!
Thanks for featuring my comment and further testing the question that I had to obtain a sure-fire answer.
Good to know that I can install future shelves with the screw from beneath or above and still have it hold up some significant weight.
Also, the caulking is an excellent idea, and I'm flabbergasted how I didn't think of that! I'm going to use that one next.
Yeah thanks for the comment and helping the channel grow! Glad you enjoyed some of the new tips!
Thanks Blake, super helpful video. And thanks so much for the link to your tools page on your website. Us newbies really appreciate it! Your videos are very easy to follow, direct, to the point. Much-much appreciative.
Thank you I appreciate it! I should have those other videos you requested out hopefully next!
Can you make a video trying this with 2x10 or 2x12 boards? I'm curious to know how much weight those could take with this method
That’s what I’m wondering also! I’m wanting to use a 2x12 for floating shelves in my kitchen.
Thanks for sharing the video. I wanted to talk physics behind keep hole placement for top of the shelf back bottom of the shelf. Mounting on through the top provides a higher resistive angular moment, putting the board in tension vs compression. Moving the downward force further out to the edge, you will find that the shelf supports more weight if holes are mounted from the top vs the bottom. Would love to see this test.
so which is best? top or bottom?
Another great video. I'm smarter now for watching it! Can't wait to see what your next project is. Keep up the great content!
I’ve got a few ideas and I’m going to “try” to post more video! Hopefully one a week but we will see!
Thank you for making this video and answering the questions, keep up the great work. 👍 Can't wait to try this shelving project!
No problem! Yeah they are awesome shelves! Let me know how it turns out!
Using Both way is pretty much better i think! 😉
Awesome tip on screwing it from bottom
thanks much! very helpful and practical! 🙂
Thank you for this!
Loved it! Thank you for sharing!
Thanks for watching! I appreciate it! Glad you enjoyed!
HOW about the floating shelf into knotty pine tongue and groove on the wall? I'd like to use a 1 X 6". This is to support my Dad's military flat in it's triangular case! Not even 5 lbs.
dude, THANK YOU! also you gained a subscriber
Thanks for the sub!
I had the same question from the 1st video but then I also thought about it and I think shelf would be much stronger if the screws are pointing downwards..
To should do another test in both direction..
What do you mean by facing downwards? You want me to install the screws on the top of the board?
@@Nailedityt yes ,it's just like hanging a picture you put screws in on a downward angle it's much stronger...
I'd love to have a tutorial for dry walls (plaster)! Currently we have IKEA shelves and we used anchors for plaster walls. They're not pretty and also quite bulky. I'd love to have nice wooden floating shelves one day.
A video will be coming in the future for that! I’m not sure when but it’s on my list!
@@Nailedityt That would be great! Thanks for your response ☺️
What about using thinner wood. I am thinking of this for small storage with a 1x4 might not be enough wood for the screws to hold at that point!
It might crack along the back edge! I haven't tested it yet!
Thanks!
Definitely interested in you trying the same thing in concrete or cinder block wall, I’ve only ever drilled into one once and it took ages so I haven’t bothered since, perhaps was using the wrong drill bit?
Subbed.
I am going to make some assumptions, none of them are intended to slight. Often people try to drill holes in concrete with a normal drill and/or wood or steel drill bit. to drill concrete you need a drill capable of being a hammer drill, A concrete drill bit of the correct size for the particular screw you use, and depending on the length an impact driver. Concrete bits are specially made with a particular tip which when used with a hammer drill chisels the hole rather than cutting like metal and wood. There are sort of 2 hammer drill types and the kid like an XRP dewalt cordless hammer drill are only good for small (3/16s is a lot of work), quite a slow process, extremely loud, and burns bits if you don't take your time rendering them useless. The other thing is when drilling long concrete screws (we often call them tapcons at work, even though it's a brand name like kleenex but whatever) Turning them in with a drill often snaps them right off because of the constant torque.
Getting a good result from a concrete screw without access to quite nice tools can be a difficult task and a slow process. I've revisited lots of failed concrete fasteners in my line of work and when people don't take care they fail quite prematurely, due to the nature of concrete.
@@xald1234114 thank you for the information! I think it was probably just poor tools, it was some years ago when fitting a tv bracket and we borrows the neighbour’s drill and used some cheap masonry drill bit which probably wasn’t up to the task. It did take a long time, if I need to drill into blocks again I’ll use better tools.
All of these are great tips! Thanks for taking the time to give your knowledge to others! Yes, good tools do make a difference but keep in mind mid grade tools will do great a most tasks! Check out this video for more info on that: ua-cam.com/video/y_ANm7fS4wc/v-deo.html
I may make a video in the future going over how to install these in concrete! Let me know if that’s something that would interest you!
@@Nailedityt I would definitely be interested and I think many others would, I know it’s common in the USA to have timber houses but in most of Europe we use bricks/blocks, even our partition walls between bedrooms are brick/block in most cases. I’m not sure why there’s such a difference, you’d think it would be the other way around, you get insane weather in the USA like hurricanes, but we don’t, who knows.
Now I see why you didn't glue the dowel, smart!
Yeah! It would be really hard to get off the wall! You would probably have to saw the screws on the back or try and break the shelf or something!
Do you think that this method would work with 1x12 pine?
I'd love to see the concrete wall version of these shelves :) cheers from Mexico City
same here...in Europe our apartments are not made from cardboard ,)
yes. please make a video on how to install it on concrete, or a brick wall
Noted!
Wouldn't you have to drill pilot holes in the stud to prevent splitting?
Thanks. Thinking of doing with 2x4 to place a 18lb 4" deep speaker on.
Now that you have installed above and below what is your preference?
How deep can you go with the shelf & it still be sturdy? Not that I’m planning to put anything crazy heavy but I’ve been researching DIY floating shelves & while a lot of them are nice, none of them look like they can support any real weight. I’m wanting to put floating shelves under a wall mounted tv to hold multiple game consoles so I can have all of them out, hooked up, & ready to go at a moment’s notice. 😂 Some of the systems are light and I don’t worry about them causing a shelf to fail such as my NES or SNES but I don’t want to risk some of the heavier ones I own (I’m looking at you chunky ps3 & Atari 2600😒) unless I’m sure it’s going to be sturdy. Even store bought shelves I’ve looked at don’t seem as reliable what you’ve done. I would cry if my shelves collapsed & trashed my game systems.😭
These should hold all that stuff! As for the depth, I havent tested anything past 12" deep! I probably wouldnt want you to go any deeper than that though!
What if I wanted to make a “floating shelf” 3’long x 14” wide , idc how tk rly. Just to hold some plastic helmets. Each weighing max of 2.25 lbs. marvel legends replicas. Iron man helmet , spidy helm, black panther helm. I can get atleast two maybe three studs .
are you putting these shelves up to use them or just for the videos?
I need to move a shelf I put up using this method, except I can’t get any of the screws out! Because I used the screws you suggested they’re all stuck on the smooth portion of the screw, spinning around endlessly in the pocket hole. Any suggestions?
do you think a 50" (2" x 12") would hold on 5 studs 12 inch center spacing?
2x12 is getting pretty wide! Can you get away with a 2x10? The 2x12 might still work but it just depends on how much weight you are trying to have on the shelf! I worry about it sagging to much in the front!
Just curious, did you ever go forward with the 2x12? We were also thinking of doing the same thing…/ contemplating.
Same here.
Wondering the same…
@@TheAdamsHomeStead I put it up as a test with 8 inch screws and the 12 in board did sag.
How do you hang it to the actual drywall, if we cant line it up to the studs? Thanks.
Just a test tip for your garage.
-Failure eventually is a given. Do you actually want a 5 gallon of any liquid hitting the floor out of control? MY answer is "no".-
-In future tests featuring possible failure may I suggest first that the item be solid? NO Powder, liquids, coins, etc. Nothing that- -will take hours to clean up, or cannot be cleaned up. Stacks of cement blocks are best. Second, suspend them. Make a frame- -to suspend them or use the ceiling trusses. Lastly, how about a ladder on each side of the shelf, and a scaffold underneath of a- -few 2x4's.-
On second thought, Brighter paint is a better test until failure option. Make sure you always test to failure with 20 gallons, open top containers, and 3 camera wide angle shots, forget the bright ideas of not making a mess. Viral videos of failure work better.
i was thinking of doing it as a floating bar storage...so i can put bottles. it doesn't slant down? bottles wont fall?
How many bottles and how wide and long of a shelf are you thinking about doing?
@@Nailedityt about 6ft long board. hmm maybe like 10 bottles per shelf
I think that would be fine! Go check out this video, this is what I put in my wife’s salon! It’s probably close to what you are thinking about doing! If you have more questions feel free to ask!
ua-cam.com/video/5Url3QXQHaI/v-deo.html
It will not be as simple screwing it in a concrete or brick wall. You will have to use plugs which in turn means you need to figure out the exact point and most importantly the angle that the screw will go in so that the plugs are placed correctly to receive the screw.
So it needs some extra work and is definitely not as trivial as screwing into the studs.
That’s a good point! I am going to be working on the video in the future so I will keep that in mind!
@@Nailedityt I think easiest is to use a piece of wood as template. You first screw in the wood so you get a footprint of the exact screw angle. Then you put this piece of wood against the wall and use it as a guide to drill the hole in the wall.
@@grgr6720 that’s a brilliant idea! Would love to see it
If you do concrete please use plastic wall plugs too and not just a concrete screw.
Is there a specific reason why?
Thanks for this! I think with the newer engineering in fasteners like the GRKs, you get such a strong connection that you can screw to the underside without any issue for daily use. It would make sense that if you're screwing from the top you get a counter sink style pressure. This is a great video that shows engineering in a retaining wall that relates a bit to how this screw functions - ua-cam.com/video/iDzp6xEAT2I/v-deo.html.
That’s is an interesting video! I would love to be able to figure out the math and see if there truly is a difference between mounting it on the bottom vs the top! Similar to your example video with the wall facing with or against the marbles!
You’re fortunate that your weight is low. I’d need eight screws. Haha.
lol 😂 yeah I’m pretty small!
Poor design
It’s not for everyone and that’s ok!