great info as always. I have switched to maximum point blank range on all my hunting rifles. example 30-30 I just scoped for my step dad. near zero 18 yards. far zero 169 yards. MPBR 197yds (with 170g bullet) different bullet/load that changes. but knowing you can aim dead on at a deer from 0-197 yards is great peace of mind. same with my .270 gets me a MPBR of over 300 yards with no holdover/dialing, or bdc reticle needed.
Just wanted to say thank you vortex. I unfortunately cant afford all the new crazy glass, but I have gotten lucky enough to get one. The crossfire reddot, to be exact. While I was sighting it in, I had lost one of the windage and elevation knobs and reached out to vortex. they first, thank me for my business.Even how small it might be and sent some out for free to. I really do appreciate that, guys. As somebody that can't afford much these days, you have earned every penny that I'm earning to go to you for my glass needs. Thank you and Merry Christmas 🎅 and a blessed new year's.
Similar to the 50 yard zero concept… If you want to have consistency between weapons, don’t have a consistent zero. Have a consistent flight path at the distances you would have to shoot quickly without confirming distance and trajectory first. This allows you to have a consistent process across weapons and ammo types.
Scope height will change trajectory drastically and I rarely hear people talking about it on scope sighting videos. Go online to a ballistic calculator, enter the scope height (center of bore to center of scope), velocity, bullet weight and BC. Then you can change your zero in the app to find what will work best for your hunting situation. I hunt hogs here in Texas using AR rifles and pistols and my thermal scopes are right at 2.7" above bore. I sight in at 50 yards and several of my cartridges are point and shoot out to between 165 and 190. Do yourself a favor and check out a ballistic calculator instead of relying on someone telling what your zero should be.
Most people do not understand that a bullet starts dropping the millisecond it leaves the barrel. To compensate for this the barrel is tilted up, thus the arched bullet path crosses the line of sight at 2 points along the straight line of sight. If you know your velocity, bullet weight, bullet BC, scope height, and elevation where your hunting, you can plug everything into a ballistic calculator and it will give you your trajectory. Most of my shots are 300yds or less, therefore I set my scopes where I'm never above or below 3" of my POA. This usually means i can hold on top of a deers heart out to 300-325 yds and never worry about missing the vitals. If i think its further than my max distance, then I'll range, consult my dope card, adjust and let'r eat. But anything in between I don't even think about it " no man's thinking trajectory", it works for 95% of the time.
I agree with almost everything you write here. The exception is that you do not need the bullet weight if you have the bullet BC. Bullet weight is a factor of the BC. Fomula goes like this: BC = (mass in grs/7000) / (the dimensionless coefficient of the shape of the projectile, about 1.1046 for a HPBT bullet) * (the diameter of the projectile in inches^2) A .308 in HPBT bullet weighing 175 grains has a G7 BC equals to: (175/7000) / 1.1046*0.308^2 = 0.239
For hunting in areas where opportunities could pop up at different ranges, use point blank zero, the old 1000 inch range, about 28 yards. At that range it is easy to see the bullet holes and make adjustments. Point of impact will be about 2 or 3 inches high at 100 and 200 yards and about 3 inches low at 300 yards. Second point of zero will be about 265 yards.
Depends on caliber and your intended max ethical shot for hunting. Straight wall cartridge or similar ballistics - 50. Everything else 100. Drop from 100 to 200 is around 1-2 MOA. Easily within vitals of deer. If you are 300+ yards out, you more than likely have time to properly range for either a hold over or dialing.
If I have rifle sited at 100 and there is deer at 150 yards for example, do I have to aim alot higher? Im new to shooting. Have 6.5 PRC and 7mm Rem Mag
I’m going to need to see some additional data on your 200 yd zero with a duplicate zero beyond. Seems like your duplicate zero would be closer to you based on your 50/175 zero
Exactly what I was thinking. Are we saying the projectile is still climbing at 200? I understand the barrel to scope height causing a 50/150 yard zero etc. I don't think this applies further down range.
I'm headed to the range tomorrow to zero a new scope. It's an indoor 100-yd range, so I was just going to zero at 100. After watching this video, I'm going to zero at 50, which puts the redundant zero for my rifle & load at 158.5 yards. Not only easier to zero at 50 than 100 but also pushes my 4-inch drop out an extra 25 yards with peak less than an inch above zero. Glad I watched this video!
It really depends on the cartridge, barrel length, optic height, etc. Like he said though, many cartridges zeroed at 50 yards will also be zeroed at around 150. 150 to 200 shouldn’t drop enough to significantly effect your point of aim. From 50 to 150, your bullet will impact slightly HIGHER than where it hits at 50. Generally speaking, you should be fine with a 50 yard zero, but confirm it at 150, and different points in between if you’re able
Everything 100yard zero with exception of purpose use close quarter rig. For hunting, 100yrd zero then dial for impact at whatever you want. The plus side to this is you can always back down to 100yrd target and reconfirm. Keep it simple!
I zero all my long range and hunting at 50. Your calculators have a spot where you can enter your zero distance.... You could zero your gun at 25yds if you wanted. Some people just can't handle it and fall apart over the conversation. It's madness.
great info as always. I have switched to maximum point blank range on all my hunting rifles. example 30-30 I just scoped for my step dad. near zero 18 yards. far zero 169 yards. MPBR 197yds (with 170g bullet) different bullet/load that changes. but knowing you can aim dead on at a deer from 0-197 yards is great peace of mind. same with my .270 gets me a MPBR of over 300 yards with no holdover/dialing, or bdc reticle needed.
Just wanted to say thank you vortex. I unfortunately cant afford all the new crazy glass, but I have gotten lucky enough to get one. The crossfire reddot, to be exact. While I was sighting it in, I had lost one of the windage and elevation knobs and reached out to vortex. they first, thank me for my business.Even how small it might be and sent some out for free to. I really do appreciate that, guys. As somebody that can't afford much these days, you have earned every penny that I'm earning to go to you for my glass needs. Thank you and Merry Christmas 🎅 and a blessed new year's.
Similar to the 50 yard zero concept… If you want to have consistency between weapons, don’t have a consistent zero. Have a consistent flight path at the distances you would have to shoot quickly without confirming distance and trajectory first. This allows you to have a consistent process across weapons and ammo types.
Scope height will change trajectory drastically and I rarely hear people talking about it on scope sighting videos. Go online to a ballistic calculator, enter the scope height (center of bore to center of scope), velocity, bullet weight and BC. Then you can change your zero in the app to find what will work best for your hunting situation. I hunt hogs here in Texas using AR rifles and pistols and my thermal scopes are right at 2.7" above bore. I sight in at 50 yards and several of my cartridges are point and shoot out to between 165 and 190. Do yourself a favor and check out a ballistic calculator instead of relying on someone telling what your zero should be.
Most people do not understand that a bullet starts dropping the millisecond it leaves the barrel. To compensate for this the barrel is tilted up, thus the arched bullet path crosses the line of sight at 2 points along the straight line of sight.
If you know your velocity, bullet weight, bullet BC, scope height, and elevation where your hunting, you can plug everything into a ballistic calculator and it will give you your trajectory.
Most of my shots are 300yds or less, therefore I set my scopes where I'm never above or below 3" of my POA. This usually means i can hold on top of a deers heart out to 300-325 yds and never worry about missing the vitals. If i think its further than my max distance, then I'll range, consult my dope card, adjust and let'r eat. But anything in between I don't even think about it " no man's thinking trajectory", it works for 95% of the time.
I agree with almost everything you write here. The exception is that you do not need the bullet weight if you have the bullet BC. Bullet weight is a factor of the BC. Fomula goes like this:
BC = (mass in grs/7000) / (the dimensionless coefficient of the shape of the projectile, about 1.1046 for a HPBT bullet) * (the diameter of the projectile in inches^2)
A .308 in HPBT bullet weighing 175 grains has a G7 BC equals to:
(175/7000) / 1.1046*0.308^2 = 0.239
For hunting in areas where opportunities could pop up at different ranges, use point blank zero, the old 1000 inch range, about 28 yards. At that range it is easy to see the bullet holes and make adjustments. Point of impact will be about 2 or 3 inches high at 100 and 200 yards and about 3 inches low at 300 yards. Second point of zero will be about 265 yards.
Depends on caliber and your intended max ethical shot for hunting. Straight wall cartridge or similar ballistics - 50.
Everything else 100. Drop from 100 to 200 is around 1-2 MOA. Easily within vitals of deer. If you are 300+ yards out, you more than likely have time to properly range for either a hold over or dialing.
If I have rifle sited at 100 and there is deer at 150 yards for example, do I have to aim alot higher?
Im new to shooting. Have 6.5 PRC and 7mm Rem Mag
I’m going to need to see some additional data on your 200 yd zero with a duplicate zero beyond. Seems like your duplicate zero would be closer to you based on your 50/175 zero
Exactly what I was thinking. Are we saying the projectile is still climbing at 200? I understand the barrel to scope height causing a 50/150 yard zero etc. I don't think this applies further down range.
I'm headed to the range tomorrow to zero a new scope. It's an indoor 100-yd range, so I was just going to zero at 100. After watching this video, I'm going to zero at 50, which puts the redundant zero for my rifle & load at 158.5 yards. Not only easier to zero at 50 than 100 but also pushes my 4-inch drop out an extra 25 yards with peak less than an inch above zero.
Glad I watched this video!
I zero at 100 yards for the area where I hunt. It has seved me well.
Do you have to aim higher if a deer is at like 150 yards?
Or aim low if it's at 50 yards?
If you have your rifle zeroed to 100???
Im new to shooting
I’ve been using the 36 yard zero, but I’m having some issues using a computer and dialing MIL turrets. I will probably switch back to 100 yards.
I zero everything at 50 and have never had a problem at any range.
Whats the best zero for Tikka T3x upr 6.5 creed more under 300 hundred yard hunt
standard plain crosshairs, in open (ish) country. I use a 200meter zero.
So if I shoot deer at 200 yds max , at what distance should I zero to be on vital from 75 to 200?
It really depends on the cartridge, barrel length, optic height, etc.
Like he said though, many cartridges zeroed at 50 yards will also be zeroed at around 150. 150 to 200 shouldn’t drop enough to significantly effect your point of aim. From 50 to 150, your bullet will impact slightly HIGHER than where it hits at 50.
Generally speaking, you should be fine with a 50 yard zero, but confirm it at 150, and different points in between if you’re able
@ thank you very much!!
Thanks for the video, a big hug from Spain
Everything 100yard zero with exception of purpose use close quarter rig. For hunting, 100yrd zero then dial for impact at whatever you want. The plus side to this is you can always back down to 100yrd target and reconfirm. Keep it simple!
Two hundred
I zero all my long range and hunting at 50. Your calculators have a spot where you can enter your zero distance.... You could zero your gun at 25yds if you wanted. Some people just can't handle it and fall apart over the conversation. It's madness.
Not playing 🤷🏻♂️