I've done this conversion to my D16y7 when I turbocharged it a few years back. I am not sure if you used the y8 throttle body but the rule of thumb is y7 ecu uses the y7 throttle body. The issue is the d16y7 ecu looks for the 3 wire signal and the d16y8 looks for the 2 wire signal for the iacv (Idle air control valve) You can leave the y8 iacv on the back of the y8 manifold unplugged as a block off so it will not cause a vacuum leak or fab up a little block off plate. If you tried running the y8 throttle body with the y7 ecu that is the reason it will not idle correctly. Hope this helps because the y8 is a really good upgrade.
Mine ended up being a problem with ecu pins but yeah I was curious about that and used a y7 throttle body in the video. Thanks for the comment though I appreciate it
@@jacksonodonal7960 Right on glad you figured it out. When I boosted mine I had an issue with the chip that was first used in my ecu. The car would run fine then all the sudden stumble on its face then run fine again. My tuner swapped it out with one of his chips and the problems I had went away lol
my d16y8 auto uses a 3wire iacv, the manual version would us a 2 wire iacv. So buy an auto intake. than you have to fill the small holes on the gasket side of the manifold
Did you get it to work? I had the same problem, I put the y7 throttle body but had to switch the part where the throttle cable goes on to the y7 throttle body.
I couldn’t get it to work but my car had many other idle issues before I swapped the intake manifold and my issue isn’t from a vaccum leak I still haven’t figured it out. I’m thinking it’s an electronic issue.
I’m only running into surging idle. I’ve tied it down to four things. The y8 auto map sensor has a different part number than the y7 auto map sensor so I’ll try swapping that. My gasket for the throttle body was reused so it may be causing a vacuum leak. I didn’t put my lower center intake manifold nut back on (couldn’t fit). I also didn’t fully close my cruise control valve. Once I figure out my problem I’ll come back to ya.🫡
I could barely get that center but back on either I put it in the boxed end of my wrench and got it on by half a thread then used my 2 fingers to get it on the rest of the way. My car I’ve decided just has many other issues and they don’t make sense but it’s very high mileage so I’m betting the ecu is probably bad at this point or the engine harness. Nothing is the wrong with the engine side of things but the computer is doing things it shouldn’t be. Anyways let me know how yours goes and if you get it to actually work.
@@jacksonodonal7960 I swapped my MAP sensors and for about 30 seconds it run perfectly. Then I walk around to the engine bay and it starts idling funny. I think it may be IACV considering it only happens at idle for me. In reverse and drive it’s fine but in neutral and park it surges. I’m gonna clean my throttle body tomorrow at work and see if that helps. If not I’ll take off my iacv and give that a cleaning and hope that works.
@@jacksonodonal7960 I’m back. So what I ended up doing to get it work flawlessly was swap my old y7 throttle body which I knew worked onto the y8 intake manifold with the y7 throttle body gasket. I had to swap the throttle pulley (the spiny part that holds the cable) from the y8 throttle body onto the y7 because of spin orientation. It took me maybe an hour to swap them and get it working properly. TLDR: take y7 TB and NEW y7 TB gasket and swap them onto the y8 IM. And a tip is to clean your iacv (Idle Air Control Valve) unit before swapping. It saves you the headache of having to redo it all. Hopefully that helps
@@KKDriver I was running that on mine in the video because I heard you had to do that because of the 3 wire IACV but it’s not the manifolds fault it’s just a problem that I can’t figure out.
I've done this conversion to my D16y7 when I turbocharged it a few years back. I am not sure if you used the y8 throttle body but the rule of thumb is y7 ecu uses the y7 throttle body. The issue is the d16y7 ecu looks for the 3 wire signal and the d16y8 looks for the 2 wire signal for the iacv (Idle air control valve) You can leave the y8 iacv on the back of the y8 manifold unplugged as a block off so it will not cause a vacuum leak or fab up a little block off plate. If you tried running the y8 throttle body with the y7 ecu that is the reason it will not idle correctly. Hope this helps because the y8 is a really good upgrade.
Mine ended up being a problem with ecu pins but yeah I was curious about that and used a y7 throttle body in the video. Thanks for the comment though I appreciate it
@@jacksonodonal7960 Right on glad you figured it out. When I boosted mine I had an issue with the chip that was first used in my ecu. The car would run fine then all the sudden stumble on its face then run fine again. My tuner swapped it out with one of his chips and the problems I had went away lol
my d16y8 auto uses a 3wire iacv, the manual version would us a 2 wire iacv. So buy an auto intake. than you have to fill the small holes on the gasket side of the manifold
Nice one🔥💪🤝💯👍
Did you get it to work? I had the same problem, I put the y7 throttle body but had to switch the part where the throttle cable goes on to the y7 throttle body.
I couldn’t get it to work but my car had many other idle issues before I swapped the intake manifold and my issue isn’t from a vaccum leak I still haven’t figured it out. I’m thinking it’s an electronic issue.
I’m only running into surging idle. I’ve tied it down to four things. The y8 auto map sensor has a different part number than the y7 auto map sensor so I’ll try swapping that. My gasket for the throttle body was reused so it may be causing a vacuum leak. I didn’t put my lower center intake manifold nut back on (couldn’t fit). I also didn’t fully close my cruise control valve. Once I figure out my problem I’ll come back to ya.🫡
I could barely get that center but back on either I put it in the boxed end of my wrench and got it on by half a thread then used my 2 fingers to get it on the rest of the way. My car I’ve decided just has many other issues and they don’t make sense but it’s very high mileage so I’m betting the ecu is probably bad at this point or the engine harness. Nothing is the wrong with the engine side of things but the computer is doing things it shouldn’t be. Anyways let me know how yours goes and if you get it to actually work.
@@jacksonodonal7960 I swapped my MAP sensors and for about 30 seconds it run perfectly. Then I walk around to the engine bay and it starts idling funny. I think it may be IACV considering it only happens at idle for me. In reverse and drive it’s fine but in neutral and park it surges. I’m gonna clean my throttle body tomorrow at work and see if that helps. If not I’ll take off my iacv and give that a cleaning and hope that works.
@@KKDriver nice I hope it works
@@jacksonodonal7960 I’m back. So what I ended up doing to get it work flawlessly was swap my old y7 throttle body which I knew worked onto the y8 intake manifold with the y7 throttle body gasket. I had to swap the throttle pulley (the spiny part that holds the cable) from the y8 throttle body onto the y7 because of spin orientation. It took me maybe an hour to swap them and get it working properly.
TLDR: take y7 TB and NEW y7 TB gasket and swap them onto the y8 IM. And a tip is to clean your iacv (Idle Air Control Valve) unit before swapping. It saves you the headache of having to redo it all. Hopefully that helps
@@KKDriver I was running that on mine in the video because I heard you had to do that because of the 3 wire IACV but it’s not the manifolds fault it’s just a problem that I can’t figure out.