I'd love to see the AR-18 platform brought to life with a matching lower for .308 like the AR-16 was supposed to be. Side charging handle and piston operated with dual recoil springs, just amped up for that sweet .308. And, AR-10 mags to fit already 😁
It seems they have changed this up again. I picked up a 10.5" .300 a few months ago. They are now using a 1/2 to 5/8 adaptor on the barrel, and a 5/8 flash hider. You pretty much have to use the adaptor, especially if you are adding a QD for a supressor. The barrel doesn't have enough of a shoulder to directly mount a QD to and insure it is straight.
Mine didn't have the jam nut. I had to use an after market 1/2 to 5/8 adapter (the factory adapter is garbage). I used rocksett to make sure it didn't move. Then I used shims to time the QD against it.
Is there a torque spec for the jam nut when backed down onto the collar? Want to run a qd can but not sure if jam nut needs certain torque before I torque muzzle device on.
For everyone who is having trouble removing their muzzle device on this....YOU HAVE TO TIGHTEN THE JAM NUT FIRST. Its counterintuitive b/c you're trying to take the muzzle device off, but that's how jam nuts work. Tighten the jam nut, loosen the muzzle device. As you're looking down the muzzle, the jam nut should turn clockwise. The muzzle device should turn counter clockwise. When you go to put it back together reverse the directions. If you just keep trying to loosen the jam nut then all you're doing is further tightening it against the muzzle device. If you're having trouble visualizing how this works go get a bolt and two nuts. Thread both nuts on and see which directions you must turn to bring them together or apart. That's exactly how this works on the firearm. Also, the jam nut is pretty tight as it comes from the factory. You're going to have to put some ass into it. Make sure you have wrenches that fit properly. DO NOT USE AN ADJUSTABLE WRENCH. You'll just round it off. Make sure the firearm is unloaded and secure it in a vise using soft jaws or an armorers vise block on some kind. If you try to do this without putting it in a vise you're going to catch hell b/c you can't transfer the proper amount of force needed to break the jam nut. Hope this helps some of you.
@@Sigrafix Fixed wrenches are definitely the way to go. Adjustable wrenches have their place, but they should never be anywhere near a firearm unless its an emergency and its all you have. Did you get it loose?
Makes sense. The guy used an adjustable wrench in the video just to make us all angry lol. Got it all set up in the vice come to find out I don't have a fixed wrench the right size. I think if brownells was going to use this lame old muzzle device they should have at least made it easy to remove.
I did exactly as the video suggests on my new BRN-180s gen2, 3 times without success, with more force than it appears to require in the video. How should I proceed?
I just did it on mine yesterday. It takes a ton of force to remove it. Tighten the jamnut and loosen the FH. My wrench was digging into my palm when it finally broke free and started turning
Just heard from the tech line that you won’t sell the c clip and jam nut individually. Huge mistake and will prevent me from buying a second upper. I can buy a second recoil rod assembly-likely to never fail-but I can’t buy something that is easily lost if I change the suppressor? That makes no sense.
1:04 - "This is where it's different (from Gen1?)" BRN-180 Gen1 video: ua-cam.com/video/QVWVT4UmiF8/v-deo.html Note Gen1 one does *not* appear to have the C-shaped check nut. And that's what Gen2 rattling was! Storage for it.
Brownells makes a plastic pin set. They work really well and only cost a couple of dollars. They are one time use only. But for the cost it's no big deal.
I even took my upper to the local gunsmith and he could NOT get that jam nut loose. Gave up because he was afraid he'd twist or break something. It should have not been sent out like this.
As I was told once in the military, back in the last century, when something was particularly difficult, "first, put your purse down, then use your man strength". Hilarious to this day.
As long as you have enough threads to use a jam nut they work great. Honestly you don't always need a crush washer or jam nut. However it depends on the barrel and the muzzle device. Every time I did it I used Rokset to be safe.
if using a qd mount always roksett (or pin & weld). I've had a small handful of issues with stand alone crush washers in suppressor removal wanting to take the mount off with it, so the locking of the mount is up to you but as previously stated roksett/pin weld. suppressors can really bind up under a heavy firing schedule and I have no doubt in my mind they could easily take the mount off a jam nut like the one pictured. as to one being better than the other jam/crush washers id say it's entirely dependent on what muzzle device you're running. flash hider/muzzle brake either works so long as timing is in spec, cans? that's a different bird.
Tighten the jam nut, loosen the muzzle device. Jam nut should turn clockwise, muzzle device should turn counter clockwise. If you're trying to loosen the jam nut then what you're actually doing is further tightening it against the muzzle device. I had no problem removing mine, but it did take some force.
@@oldscratch3535 I got mine loose. It was tough. Now I've discovered my handguard won't come off with the surefire warcomp installed. For an upper that was designed for aftermarket muzzle devices and suppression, this is a huge fail.
this should have shipped with a thread protector instead of a flash hider that most people intend to replace anyway. If you wanted to include a flash hider then just toss it in the box and have people install it themselves.
the only thing that I can see as a problem is that the side charging system that would allow for allot of dirt and debris to enter maybe small small rocks to get into that area which can cause problem and end up being unreliable, for a reference, look at Garand Thumb's review of the BRN 180 gen2 video
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #1 НАЧАЛО ПУТЕШЕСТВИЯ [Новый сезон] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/380Q7gLWGvk/mqdefault.jpg)
I'd love to see the AR-18 platform brought to life with a matching lower for .308 like the AR-16 was supposed to be. Side charging handle and piston operated with dual recoil springs, just amped up for that sweet .308. And, AR-10 mags to fit already 😁
That's what I've been saying!
Glad they changed this with the new version.
It seems they have changed this up again. I picked up a 10.5" .300 a few months ago. They are now using a 1/2 to 5/8 adaptor on the barrel, and a 5/8 flash hider. You pretty much have to use the adaptor, especially if you are adding a QD for a supressor. The barrel doesn't have enough of a shoulder to directly mount a QD to and insure it is straight.
When adding the qd, did you use the jam nut or shims to clock the qd?
Mine didn't have the jam nut. I had to use an after market 1/2 to 5/8 adapter (the factory adapter is garbage). I used rocksett to make sure it didn't move. Then I used shims to time the QD against it.
Great video! Love your hair and sideburns!
Is there a torque spec for the jam nut when backed down onto the collar? Want to run a qd can but not sure if jam nut needs certain torque before I torque muzzle device on.
For everyone who is having trouble removing their muzzle device on this....YOU HAVE TO TIGHTEN THE JAM NUT FIRST. Its counterintuitive b/c you're trying to take the muzzle device off, but that's how jam nuts work. Tighten the jam nut, loosen the muzzle device. As you're looking down the muzzle, the jam nut should turn clockwise. The muzzle device should turn counter clockwise. When you go to put it back together reverse the directions.
If you just keep trying to loosen the jam nut then all you're doing is further tightening it against the muzzle device. If you're having trouble visualizing how this works go get a bolt and two nuts. Thread both nuts on and see which directions you must turn to bring them together or apart. That's exactly how this works on the firearm.
Also, the jam nut is pretty tight as it comes from the factory. You're going to have to put some ass into it. Make sure you have wrenches that fit properly. DO NOT USE AN ADJUSTABLE WRENCH. You'll just round it off. Make sure the firearm is unloaded and secure it in a vise using soft jaws or an armorers vise block on some kind. If you try to do this without putting it in a vise you're going to catch hell b/c you can't transfer the proper amount of force needed to break the jam nut. Hope this helps some of you.
Yeah.. I follow this guys advice, used an adjustable wrench.. managed to round off the jam nut and cut my hand open when the wrench slipped..
@@Sigrafix Fixed wrenches are definitely the way to go. Adjustable wrenches have their place, but they should never be anywhere near a firearm unless its an emergency and its all you have.
Did you get it loose?
@@oldscratch3535 No.. and unfortunately, I don't have a wrench that fits this jam nut.. Lol.
Do you happen to remember what size it is?
Makes sense. The guy used an adjustable wrench in the video just to make us all angry lol. Got it all set up in the vice come to find out I don't have a fixed wrench the right size. I think if brownells was going to use this lame old muzzle device they should have at least made it easy to remove.
@@oldscratch3535 any recommendation for the wrench? Already got 2 sides rounds by using a standard wrench. Lol
Going to take mine to a gunsmith and hope they can get it off before the jamb nut is completely stripped. Can not get it off for the life of me!
So where can I find info on how to deal with muzzle devices on the gen 1 .223 uppers? I don't think I've seen that vid.
I did exactly as the video suggests on my new BRN-180s gen2, 3 times without success, with more force than it appears to require in the video. How should I proceed?
I just did it on mine yesterday. It takes a ton of force to remove it. Tighten the jamnut and loosen the FH. My wrench was digging into my palm when it finally broke free and started turning
Just heard from the tech line that you won’t sell the c clip and jam nut individually. Huge mistake and will prevent me from buying a second upper. I can buy a second recoil rod assembly-likely to never fail-but I can’t buy something that is easily lost if I change the suppressor? That makes no sense.
Going along with the video and it's not coming loose. It's torqued way harder than any muzzle device I've ever seen on any weapon... wtf brownells?
Just got a 2nd gen 300 BLK, it does not have the "c" piece. It seems mine has an adapter threaded into the flash hider.
I know this may sound like a really dumb question, bhut What’s the purpose of the flash hider on the 300 blackout ??
1:04 - "This is where it's different (from Gen1?)"
BRN-180 Gen1 video: ua-cam.com/video/QVWVT4UmiF8/v-deo.html
Note Gen1 one does *not* appear to have the C-shaped check nut.
And that's what Gen2 rattling was! Storage for it.
Any issues with the c-clip moving around under recoil and damaging threads?
How can properly align my gas port with my gas block?
Wrong video.
Brownells makes a plastic pin set. They work really well and only cost a couple of dollars. They are one time use only. But for the cost it's no big deal.
I even took my upper to the local gunsmith and he could NOT get that jam nut loose. Gave up because he was afraid he'd twist or break something. It should have not been sent out like this.
As I was told once in the military, back in the last century, when something was particularly difficult, "first, put your purse down, then use your man strength". Hilarious to this day.
@@The10thManRules somebody probably use their man's strength to tighten the jam nut the wrong way
He probably couldnt get it loose cause he thought it was part of the muzzle device. Try doing it yourself how he did it in this video.
I like jam nuts because they’re so easy to clock the muzzle device. Everyone tells me a crush washer is better. Any advise?
As long as you have enough threads to use a jam nut they work great. Honestly you don't always need a crush washer or jam nut. However it depends on the barrel and the muzzle device. Every time I did it I used Rokset to be safe.
if using a qd mount always roksett (or pin & weld). I've had a small handful of issues with stand alone crush washers in suppressor removal wanting to take the mount off with it, so the locking of the mount is up to you but as previously stated roksett/pin weld.
suppressors can really bind up under a heavy firing schedule and I have no doubt in my mind they could easily take the mount off a jam nut like the one pictured.
as to one being better than the other jam/crush washers id say it's entirely dependent on what muzzle device you're running. flash hider/muzzle brake either works so long as timing is in spec, cans? that's a different bird.
can this be done without a vice?
i cant for the life of me pull mine off on the gen 2 556. why????
Tighten the jam nut, loosen the muzzle device. Jam nut should turn clockwise, muzzle device should turn counter clockwise.
If you're trying to loosen the jam nut then what you're actually doing is further tightening it against the muzzle device. I had no problem removing mine, but it did take some force.
@@oldscratch3535 I got mine loose. It was tough. Now I've discovered my handguard won't come off with the surefire warcomp installed. For an upper that was designed for aftermarket muzzle devices and suppression, this is a huge fail.
@@duroisgawd how did you get it off?
@@matthewallen6875 yeah. put on a surefire warcomp and now there isn't enough clearance to remove handguard to service the gas piston. fuck this gun.
@@duroisgawd what’s the return window?
I bet Brownells has a stylist on retainer, just for Caleb's hair...
Hahaha nah, Calb has this down. Check out his Instagram video showing how its done.
I recently saw Caleb's hair in person. It's truly exquisite.
this should have shipped with a thread protector instead of a flash hider that most people intend to replace anyway. If you wanted to include a flash hider then just toss it in the box and have people install it themselves.
Its suppose to be a copy of the a18 three prong muzzle device
@@wellwhynotthen2805 the main selling point of .300 is to run a can on it. I get it's a clone muzzle device
Yes sir I did. I eventually sent it back to Brownells for a refund.
the only thing that I can see as a problem is that the side charging system that would allow for allot of dirt and debris to enter maybe small small rocks to get into that area which can cause problem and end up being unreliable, for a reference, look at Garand Thumb's review of the BRN 180 gen2 video
That's the dumbest design I've ever seen!
Someone never heard of K.I.S.S.
You are so very correct. I had severe alignment issues with my suppressors.
@@kenstarfan You had alignment issues with this upper?
@@meandmyRC99 yes sir I did. I sent it back for a refund.
Just use the jam nut against the suppressor QD muzzle device. Don’t use shims too
Why did I watch this? Don't even have an AR.
Sell a BRN180 bolt carrier group that will work with binary triggers please
Your design is takes WAY too much force.