Thanks for the video....had this problem with the controller battery for quite some time. Purchased a flow gun so I could concentrate the heat and tried at 350c first without any luck....cranked it up to 400c for 30 seconds and success! Your video helped me focus on the batter charge state IC and temperature to use. Careful on the ribbon holder clamps, I broke one out of the clamp but was able to reinstall it after some time and effort!
Very good video. I think what should be investigated is to know how to prevent this failure from happening again. I read somewhere that the problem is that when the control is turned off, the current continues to circulate and that causes wear and tear on that component. There are others who, to de-energize the board, place a switch on the side of the remote control and cut off the power, and activate it only when using the remote control again.
I have a DJI phantom 4. What I have heard is that they used a type of solder that overtime leads to bad connections. It is called ROHS compliant, Which basically means it’s a clean type of solder but it doesn’t make good joints. What’s required is to reflow some solder joints and you can do that with a heat gun or if you can get directly at the solder joint you do it with a soldering iron. Another problem with this type of solder is that it creates small growths out of it like very tiny leads that can create short circuits. Clear coating that you see over the board is called conformal coat. It’s to protect the circuits from environmental conditions and it needs to be removed from any area that you have to work on. Sometimes this can be done with trichlorotrifluoroethane, also known as brake cleaner. I am still waiting for this issue to pop up on my controller but I haven’t seen it yet. At that point I’m probably going to learn more about exactly which circuit is the issue. But I’m glad your fix has worked.
Did this fix last? I have P4P+ controller (build-in screen) and I am having the same issue. I don't have a hot gun for soldering - only regular soldering iron. I am wondering whether to send it to local DJI dealer for fix (no idea how much can this cost - its out of warranty) or if its better to find someone with better soldering skill and tools.
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This looks very helpful, and is consistent with some other reports I've seen. I will give this a try.
Thanks for the video....had this problem with the controller battery for quite some time. Purchased a flow gun so I could concentrate the heat and tried at 350c first without any luck....cranked it up to 400c for 30 seconds and success! Your video helped me focus on the batter charge state IC and temperature to use. Careful on the ribbon holder clamps, I broke one out of the clamp but was able to reinstall it after some time and effort!
Very good video. I think what should be investigated is to know how to prevent this failure from happening again. I read somewhere that the problem is that when the control is turned off, the current continues to circulate and that causes wear and tear on that component. There are others who, to de-energize the board, place a switch on the side of the remote control and cut off the power, and activate it only when using the remote control again.
I have a DJI phantom 4. What I have heard is that they used a type of solder that overtime leads to bad connections. It is called ROHS compliant, Which basically means it’s a clean type of solder but it doesn’t make good joints. What’s required is to reflow some solder joints and you can do that with a heat gun or if you can get directly at the solder joint you do it with a soldering iron. Another problem with this type of solder is that it creates small growths out of it like very tiny leads that can create short circuits. Clear coating that you see over the board is called conformal coat. It’s to protect the circuits from environmental conditions and it needs to be removed from any area that you have to work on. Sometimes this can be done with trichlorotrifluoroethane, also known as brake cleaner. I am still waiting for this issue to pop up on my controller but I haven’t seen it yet. At that point I’m probably going to learn more about exactly which circuit is the issue. But I’m glad your fix has worked.
These are common faults on the DJI Phantom Series Drones. DJI should do a recall on all the drones for repairs.
Did this fix last? I have P4P+ controller (build-in screen) and I am having the same issue. I don't have a hot gun for soldering - only regular soldering iron.
I am wondering whether to send it to local DJI dealer for fix (no idea how much can this cost - its out of warranty) or if its better to find someone with better soldering skill and tools.
this only worked for a short time for me and then started doing it again, i will try this next ua-cam.com/video/sqsjhosAubo/v-deo.html
Love it
GREAT Jobs guys. But wenare doin DJI's job.
Video completamente sfuocato, non si vede quasi nulla.
Lomas líke an engineering design