After three years this still holds up quite well. bought a P3A from marketplace for $250. Ended up figuring out the connection problems must be related to this board. This is the only real guide I could find and it was so dead accurate. I cannot express my gratitude enough. I would have hated to spend another $150 on a controller! YOU SIR, ARE A GOLDEN GOD!
@@tjones99 after some time has passed, I have now done this method twice. The first board was damaged recently after the controller was dropped and hung by the cord (broken usb port) instead of replacing the port, I bought a "untested" board from Ebay. Did the same thing as before and got the same result. There is something to add that is not mentioned in your video or comments that I am sure can help someone other than me. It occured both times, the first time making me wonder if confirmation the board was working was false hope. When you flash the firmware given by your zip files, it can only communicate with Apple devices, android devices will still remain in the same disconnected state, even with usb debugging and every cord and device I own. I only have android devices. After a week of struggling (the first time) I finally found the solution. The controller needs to be updated to 1.3.2 before it will work with android. From there is needs to be updated even more to be used, this can be done ota through the controller. My dads iphone 7 saved the day twice now. Happy flying!
after some time has passed, I have now done this method twice. The first board was damaged recently after the controller was dropped and hung by the cord (broken usb port) instead of replacing the port, I bought a "untested" board from Ebay. Did the same thing as before and got the same result. There is something to add that is not mentioned in your video or comments that I am sure can help someone other than me. It occured both times, the first time making me wonder if confirmation the board was working was false hope. When you flash the firmware given by your zip files, it can only communicate with Apple devices, android devices will still remain in the same disconnected state, even with usb debugging and every cord and device I own. I only have android devices. After a week of struggling (the first time) I finally found the solution. The controller needs to be updated to 1.3.2 before it will work with android. From there is needs to be updated even more to be used, this can be done ota through the controller. My dads iphone 7 saved the day twice now. Happy flying!
Sir I owe you a drink, I have been pulling my hair out for two days trying to figure out how to flash it and you made it so simple for me, this worked on a inspire1 controller, Thank you!!
So grateful to you for making this video!! Worked great!!! Otherwise so hard getting information on these things from companies like DJI who would prefer you to buy a new drone!!!
I wanted to say thanks, this video helped me recover an otherwise "dead" GL300A board today. Definitely keep making videos like these :). It was a little bit finicky, but I eventually got it working on a windows 10 laptop, and running the command prompt as admin and with "use legacy console" option checked. I figured as I had gotten far enough to see BOOTME, and the first flash attempt there was something out of "sync" with their TX and RX messaging. In case it helps someone else, when I didn't go that route I kept getting stuck on the second flash attempt with and endless loop of these error messages (which I couldn't find much out there searching these): "Image data sent... Waiting for DONE... Target: UART Receive Error Target: Starting UART Boot... Target: BOOTUBL Waiting for SFT on the DM36x... Target: Starting UART Boot... Target: BOOTUBL BOOTUBL commmand received. Returning CMD and command... CMD value sent. Waiting for DONE... Target: DONE DONE received. Command was accepted. Sending the UBL image Waiting for SENDIMG sequence... Target: SENDIMG SENDIMG received. Returning ACK and header for image data... ACK command sent. Waiting for BEGIN command... Target: BEGIN BEGIN commmand received. 100% [ ] Image data sent..."
hats up to you mr Terry i have just ran the method and saved me loss of my gl300A , thanks a lot for sharing... one thing to note that the ftdi adapter didnot work i dinot know why only a ttl usb adapter did the job communicating correctly in the whole method
Thanks for the feedback. Sometimes it is hard to get the FTDI drivers to install in Windows 10 because some of them use unsigned drivers. There is a special boot mode in Windows 10 that you can get into for one restart that allows you to install unsigned drivers. Great instruction on that at www.maketecheasier.com/install-unsigned-drivers-windows10/ And I can't take full credit... all the details posted by others in the forum made this video possible.
Still works after a few years (2024) got a good deal on a p3p ( said it need a controller) lol and then I come across your video. Worked perfectly and thanks so much for sharing it with us all .my only question is can the board be updated where I can only use iPad ? I tryed but it failed. THANKS AGAIN. You are the man
I was really excited when I watched your video, because a week ago my P3Pro exhibited this exact problem for the first time. Mine does have HDMI, and the bottom of the RC clearly says GL300A. Unfortunately, the controller board does not have the markings as the one in the video to specify what the contacts are. I wonder if it actually still has a 300A board or if during the HDMI upgrade (previous owner) the board was changed to a 300B 0r 300C controller board?
@@tjones99 That's what I am finding out, but thanks for confirming that. I know a new board can be purchased for a boatload of money on Amazon, but how would I know for sure that this is the problem? The symptoms are the same. The drone sat for 9 mos and then I flew it three times in a week with no problem. 2 days after the last flight I started up the drone and the RC but the video would not connect. I can raise and lower the gymbal, but I'm really afraid to fly without the video feed.
@@tjones99 No regrets! It’s a great game. I still play it once in awhile too. Thanks again for taking the time to make this video in such detail. You made a little boy happy he can fly his drone again!
Hi Terry, Thank you for putting this together. I'm still having some issues with the controller after following this tutorial. I followed the instructions and everything seemed to match up perfectly; same error codes, same dialog during the flash process, and same dialog once it was flashed. I reassembled everything and now I'm still not able to connect to the controller (no auto boot into DJI go app, not able to go into camera view, etc.). All it does is start charging my phone or iPad. I reconnected the board to putty and it's still showing a successful boot. Have any other thoughts on how to proceed?
Another satisfied customer here with a now fixed Phantom GL300A controller. Thanks!!! Any idea what causes this, or if the reprogramming is a permanent fix? Will this possibly happen again sometime in the future?
My understanding is that the flash cells may be deteriorating and losing their ability to retain which sounds bad BUT as I understand the issue the act of powering on refreshes the cells so the key is to not leave your drone idle for months. Just turn it on every month or do.
I wanna buy some new board but they all miss the 3 ic’s and idk if they will work and I tried to flash the old one with arduino (5v rx tx) prob blew it up so I’m in need of replacement 😅
Takes a bit of skill soldering little wires on to hook to the FTDI board. Also another tip I found is that if your FTDI board has a CH340 chip and you have trouble getting drivers to install on Windows 10 look up how to install unsigned drivers in Windows 10.
There are snippits in this thread that imply maybe... I have not tried. phantompilots.com/threads/fixing-flash-programming-in-dm365-chip-within-gl300-remote-controller.144123/
I am 99% sure that i have a GL658 and it worked for me. I just har to boot it in bootme mode and just pull the code. I did not Get any readings from it in putty. But then i booted in bootme. And after that i could see the booting in putty. Again im not a 100% sure but i think i have a GL658. Its the original inspire 1 controller.
Hello I am about to try this process on my board. Just one question do you just touch the wire to enter boot mode when powered on or does both ends have to stay connected
Hi. Great video, thanks. My Phantom 3 Pro had no damage and hardly flew. It connects fine, can even fly the drone, but the is no video at all. I have a different USB board on my controller, there is no components on the back. I can see the histogram on my software, that change if I change the video environment, but there is no video at all. Struggling for a long time now to figure out what it is. Any advise, please?
@@demetrismit3090 This apparently does not apply to GL300B and GL300C if you read phantompilots.com/threads/fixing-flash-programming-in-dm365-chip-within-gl300-remote-controller.144123/ Have you tried a USB firmware update on your controller through the app?
@@tjones99 Thanks Terry. I really appreciate your time. Yes, I do not see any processor IC on the board. So that leave me with the question, why is my video not showing, but can see the histogram for the footage. Much appreciated.
Hi Terry, What is the name of the connectors you use? Do you have a link to where you buy them at all? Thank you for the video, got the USB coming in a few weeks and trying this asap but can't figure what the connectors are
I assume you are talking about the little red wires that have connectors on the end to plug onto the FTDI board (USB FTDI board). Those are just simple dupont connectors on wires. The ones pictured were just female to female wires that I cut in half so two wires cut in half gave me 4 dupont to bare wires. Search for female to female dupont in ebay or amazon and you will find some.
Terry, a question about how you soldered the leads on the board. I noticed you just touched the tip of the iron on top of the stripped lead wire and pad but didn't have an obvious source of solder. Do you use a paste on the pad or the stripped end of the lead? Or solder the end of the lead and then melt that again when pressing the lead against the pad? Also, I've got a GL300B controller that just this weekend progressively stopped showing the video stream and then stopped being recognized by an Android tablet (using two different USB cables.) Also tested unsuccessfully with an iPhone 7 and an iPhone 6. I can get into the Go app but it says "disconnected" and no amount of fiddling seems to restore the connection. It worked fine the weekend prior to this. I'm hoping the control board for the GL300B will behave the same with this process as those with an GL300A. Thanks. Edit: Just opened up the GL300B controller and the USB control board looks nothing like the one in the video. The bottom of the board (the side opposite the USB connectors,) is completely blank with no SMC's and no pads other than the ones for the USB connectors themselves and two copper colored dots marked 1765_P1 and 1765_P4. There are some SMCs on the side with the USB connectors and what might be pads but none are labeled. There's a label saying: P01213.02 and a sticker saying: 04EJA 57104. Guess that takes care of that.
Sorry, for some reason I missed that you had posted a message. I think in the video I "tinned" the pads on the board which if you don't spend a lot of time soldering means you make sure they are coated with a fresh blob of clean new solder, and off camera I did the same for the ends of the wires so both wire ends and solder pads on the PCB (printed circuit board) had fresh solder so then all you have to do is put the two together and apply heat and they melt together. Soldering 101... So your board looks different... do not give up... Have a look at the pictures at phantompilots.com/threads/fixing-flash-programming-in-dm365-chip-within-gl300-remote-controller.144123/ and see if that looks like your board... if so then my video is just a reference and those instructions should apply.
@@aceboogie1775 I did not. I think the problem was caused by a bad USB cable that may have shorted the board. I ended up buying another controller. The old controller is a GL300B and the new one is a GL300D but it works fine with the Phantom 3 pro. Thanks.
@@stevek731 i bought a new usb board for the back and still had the same problem so im guessing its my main board on the controller i just bought a second hand controller with 50 percent charge problem for £35 im going to swap the board and see what happens should be here tomorrow
hello terry first ultra thanks for the effort and most important for sharing it , a lot of us semi diy guys like dji products for technology and reliability , but hate how closed dji stuff are , any way my question hopfully you answer should it be a ttl module used to communicate with the board you repaired or i can use ftr32 ?? is there a flashing method for the gimbal main board if it goes bricked
Never heard of an ftr32 board... ftdi and ftdi 232 board will work... virtually anyything that is seen as a COM port on the PC and translates the communication at a 3.3V logic level will work... And I am sure there is a way to reflash a gimbal board but I haven't gone there yet... have a look at phantompilots.com/threads/fixing-flash-in-dm365-chip-within-ph3-pro-gimbal.127310/ on that one... it starts off way in the deep end with resoldering a BGA flash chip... then talks about reflashing... but I think there will be a lot of reading between the lines on that one...
Well the basic skills of soldering and working with things like FTDI boards and RS232 devices has taken a lifetime... but others that posted the DJI specific stuff on the web that I just packaged into a video I can't take credit for... they did the heavy lifting here...
Awesome! The soldering can be a bit delicate... but the reality is even if you have to buy EVERYTHING you need including a simple T12 soldering station with a nice fine tip and good temperature control for $55 its still worth having a crack at it!
@@tjones99 Thanks Terry, now still pandemi arround the world...Certainly in Indonesia.I'm still dosn't have enogh money to buy that,couse the pandemi(COVID),i loose my job...😭.The drone can be fixed couse your tutorial makes me happy.Thanks alot Terry for your suggest...🙏
Sorry, I can't say. No experience with the 300C. For sure you would need different firmware than what I link to in the description... pretty sure the firmware I point at would brick the 300C
Hi Terry. I have phantom 3 advanced with gl300c transmitter. I have no camera view.. There is different USB board like on your video.. But I put USB board from working controller and its no working. I pairing with other controller everything is fine so problem is on main board.. Any suggestion? There is hard to buy main board to that model
From reading the following my understanding is things are not done the same way on the GL300B and GL300C controllers (phantompilots.com/threads/fixing-flash-programming-in-dm365-chip-within-gl300-remote-controller.144123/) so this fix will not work for your controller. I have zero experience with the GL300C I am afraid. Sorry.
You mean if you get a strong battery charge? I actually believe it should be turned on infrequently as well because I am pretty sure the flash cells get their charge when read _OR_ written and that only happens when on as far as I know. But I am leaning towards this happening more frequently when battery is flat.
Terry I have a Phantom 3 Professional and it lost video after sitting for about 3 months. Never had a problem before that. Even now I can fly the quad copter and it records video but I can't see what the camera sees. Flying blind is risky. My problem is I don't have a PC computer (I'm a Mac guy) and while I basically understand what you are doing, gearing up would be costly. Is there someplace where I can get a board for my GL300B controller and just do a board swap?
I see two boards listed on ebay that might solve your issue... alternatively if you want to mail me your board I can try the similar procedure on the GL300B board that I did on my GL300A board and see if that behaves...
@@tjones99 Terry, thanks for getting back to me. I saw the two boards on Ebay and the price is not too bad. I contacted a drone repair service and they told me to look at buying another Phantom 3 since it would be about the same cost as having me send in the drone and having them fix it. A board swap seems sooo much better. I'll get the board out of the controller and see what it looks like and get back to you. If I have you try reprogramming the board, would you need my controller to see if it works?
Terry Jones thank you, will test with another board I have, if it work I will follow your great tutorial for flashing the bad one, thank you for the video 👍
Well thats interesting... the upload file was still there, but the old link pointed to tjhs.ca.... and when I look at the link provided by Wordpress now its www.tjhs.ca.... Short answer is try again... should be fixed now. thanks for pointing it out and letting me know.
Just spent more time looking at this and I am leaning towards it being just a web hosting issue. www.tjhs.ca/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/DJI_GL300A_USB.zip www.tjhs.ca/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/DJI_GL300A_USB.zip tjhs.ca/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/DJI_GL300A_USB.zip tjhs.ca/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/DJI_GL300A_USB.zip All URLS that point at the same place seem to be working fine now.
Hello. I plugged the device into a usb port and nothing happens. Then i turned off the 5 volt power and there was an unreadable string that slowly continues. I saw after this line the inscription "dji repair" appeared. I don't have that happening. When do i disconnect my device from the usb to make a reboot?
Not sure when you say "I plugged the device into a USB port" what "device" is... is that just the USB adapter or is that the USB adapter (FTDI board) soldered to the controller board or what? Normally you are NOT disconnecting the device from the USB port. You are unplugging the 5V line from the FTDI adapter as shown in the video.
@@tjones99 Everything ends at the 1st stage of loading when you need to press any key to reset the error. And the download actually starts but ends with an error. I use windows 11. I think maybe I should try to install windows7 specifically. And here is the message itself: Interfacing to the dm36x via UART failed. Please reset or power-cycle the board and try again.
@@ДмитрийФедотов-р3п I am using Windows 10 and I do not expect much difference with 11 so I do not think that is the issue. If the download ends with an error I am worried that perhaps your flash chip has failed and not just lost its contents.
Hopefully you are still fielding comments on this video...I did everything as seen in the video. Got to BOOTME, BOOTME etc... ran the prompt [sfh_DM36x -nandflash -v -p "COM6" ubl1_hdmi.bin u-boot_hdmi.bin] and this is where I get an error... it says in the cmd window... Attempting to connect to device COM3... Press any key to end this program at any time. Waiting for the DM36x... The I/O operation has been aborted because of either a thread exit or an application request. Interfacing to the DM36x via UART failed. Please reset or power-cycle the board and try again... Any suggestions? I get this message repeatedly after re-attempting this tutorial. Thanks. I was happy to get as far as I got but now I'm just stuck with more useless electronic paperweights after this failure. What could I have done wrong? My solders seem fine - but who knows?
Ok - after reading your edit in the bottom of the description about updating the drivers, I was able to get it to work. I have a Win10 system and after updating drivers and rebooting computer, the communication from the computer to the DM card worked. Next I will be trying to see if the drone allows the RC to connect in Camera mode on the app. We'll see tomorrow. There are several comments in here that indicated that doing all of this didn't help with their problem of connecting the RC to the app. I'll let you know. Thanks for the tutorial - even if this doesn't work, I am enjoying the whole process as much as a complex jigsaw puzzle.
Well, after putting Humpty Dumpty back together again... still no 'Camera' view popping up on the phone when it is plugged into the RC. Bummer. I had high hopes for this fix. The only thing I have left to try is the last thing you have listed in your description edits - trying to connect it first to an apple product (which I don't have) to see if the apple connection allows me to connect to the RC in order to upgrade the firmware using the app. I'll post back here if I get any results.
HELLO TERRY AGAIN i faced a problem in the method of flashing the gimbal , the putty is not reading it on the same ttlusb i used to flash the gl300A, do you think if putty is not reading can i do a blind flashing??? i mean i make the connection then jump the booting and running the command promt and type the reflash orders?? what do you say may that work??? or it may do a harm?? by the way when i make the connection to ttl usb and set in comport and buad rate the putty does not display any communication, but the gimbal board is has an led blinking .the supply voltage in this repair is 5v according to video, i tried the 3.3v instead but the gimbal board didnot even blink .
Unlikely. If you are not seeing the BOOTME message then no good. Try swapping the Rx and Tx on the ftdi and see. Hmmm. How are you powering the gimbal board?
@@tjones99 i powered it from the ftdi(ttl usb in my case) it self, when i use the 3.3v the ttl will not be defined as a com port( unknown device) and will not launch the putty on that port, when i use the 5v option i t opens the comport in putty and the board status led blinks green for some time then red but no serial data received on putty?! i tried the ftdi32 same results, by the way the guy used a seperate board to power the board thats why he used two grounds
m j putty not seeing your ftdi boards is the first issue. The ftdi should be 3.3v. First get that working without the gimbal board even connected. Connect ftdi Tx to ftdi Rx and plug the ftdi into your computer not connected to gimbal board. Should show up as COM Portland with Rx to Tx what you type in putty should appear in putty window. Then find a way to provide 5v power to the gimbal board. What might work is your second ftdi board set to 5v and only hook up 5v and ground from it. First ftdi at 3.3v hook up Rx Tx and ground for communication only. Alternatively get a 5v dc power adapter.
Thanks for an awesome video. I'm getting an error with PuTTY saying "error reading device" every time I plug the 5v pin into my FTDI programmer (using an arduino uno - maybe that's the problem?). Any advice?
What it sounds like to me is you are confusing a "USB-ASP" type programmer and an FTDI adapter. You can use an UNO as a programmer, and I suspect there is a way to program an UNO as an FTDI adapter (overkill)... but you really want to be using a simple USB to TTL adapter not a "programmer". I have a USBASP programmer that I can program devices by connecting to their ICSP port, but that is a more low level type communication using data and clock lines to transfer data where the FTDI adapter (USB to TTL adapter) is just a form of RS232 type serial communication over logic levels rather than real RS232 levels for long distances.
@@tjones99 Thanks for the reply. I thought it was just a simple USB-TTL converter. I followed the instructions in this video: ua-cam.com/video/qqSLwK1DP8Q/v-deo.html I am using a nano clone though so it may have its own weird nuances making things tricky. I'm able to write arduino sketches to the nano so I think the drivers are all in order but can't get the controller's usb board to talk. I'll probably just spend a few dollars and a few days getting one like the one you used. Thanks!
I wonder if it could have something to do with not being able to select the logic level with the arduino? Since you can select 3.3 or 5v with the adapter you used. Oh well, ordered one. I hope it works!
@@devindorius5449 OK, thanks for the link to the Arduino to FTDI approach... that falls under the heading of "learn something every day". I just took a NANO and jumpered RST to GND and talked to it with PuTTY and it worked fine... (are you using an UNO or a NANO? First comment says UNO second says NANO?) But... Your next comment IS spot on (but not the only issue I believe). You can buy a NANO in 3.3V or 5V models... So to get correct logic levels you should be using a 3.3V NANO. So a NANO does have 3 power pins... 3.3V, 5V and Vin (and I suspect that's the same on both the 3.3V and the 5V models from what I read but I only have 5V NANO on hand) and specs that I read say that max 50ma is available from them. This may be too low to power the DJI board... or it may be that the power on surge when the 5V is connected to the NANO causes a momentary power drop that resets the CH340 chip that is talking to PuTTY... or it may be that your DJI board has other issues and is pulling 5V too low due to excess current drain. If you are using a 5V NANO then you are pushing too much voltage into the DJI board and that's not a good thing and that can cause the chips to get into odd modes that draw too much current. But if you are using a 3.3V NANO then you might try powering the DJI board 5V from another source and see if that works better.
@@tjones99 My apologies, it's an UNO. I use nanos for just about everything else and mistyped. I'm thinking I must be pushing 5v into the DJI board. Hopefully that is at least part of the issue. I really appreciate your help on this, btw!
I did not have to flash my RC (remote control) after updating my firmware. I think another comment below mentioned that but in my case I did not have to. I may have just been lucky with the version my RC was already at.
@@tjones99 the problem is that I do not know what version of RC was, I got the drone already with the remote control not working. and since the phone does not connect, I do not know the firmware version of the drone. can except ubl1_hdmi.bin and U-boot_hdmi.bin what else to flash? in another branch, I found the firmware ubl1_prop.img, ubl2_prop.img, u-boot_prop.img, uImage. why is it*. img and not *. bin
@@tjones99I understand you need to try to flash the firmware 1.3.20 from a USB flash drive or start with the first one? what was your RC version after restoring the remote
Thank you for the Vid and the files.. After flashing the board my phone now detects communication with the Remote Control. (before it was just detected as charging device). However I still dint get access to camera on the DJI GO app.. On my windows 7 computer when i plug it in, I only see "DJI USB Virtual COM 4" in Ports.. the DJI Assistant Does not detect the Remote Control.
So while recently working with some LightBridge units I found there are multiple versions of DJI Assistant... at least 3 versions... and I found that one version detected my LightBridge 1 unit but not my LightBridge 2 unit and a third detected only my drones... I suspect you may be using the incorrect version. It seems you can download and install all versions on the same machine... www.dji.com/ca/downloads/softwares/assistant-dji-lightbridge www.dji.com/ca/downloads/softwares/assistant-dji-2 www.dji.com/ca/downloads/softwares/dji-assistant-2-consumer-drones-series So try the different versions of Assistant and see if any of them connect...
@@luisvaldez6204Sorry... I was just working on some LightBridge units and the above reply was applicable to them not Phantom 3 Professional... I do not believe that I ever connected the Phantom 3 Professional (P3P) to my PC and had anything more than what you are seeing on the PC in device manager... at least not connecting to any DJI software like Assistant... Once I had done the flash procedure using the TI flash utility and Putty etc, I then connected the controller to my phone and used the DJI GO app on the phone to connect to the controller and the drone and get live video. I just did it again to test and with my iPhone running the DJI GO app without the controller connected I see the connect to your device screen, and as soon as I plugged in the controller via USB lightning cable the app immediately knew it was connected to a Phantom 3 Professional and said Aircraft Connected. When I click Camera I see the drone camera view. But... my recollection when first doing this was I ran into a number of issues when I was using different cables to my phone (tablet) and different phones (tablets). Specifically your cable must be a charge AND sync cable... many are charge only. And regarding phones... I had some android devices that I was never able to get DJI GO to work with. So make sure you are using a device that is known to work with the DJI GO app. I have personally successfully used iPhone 7, iPhone 12 mini and iPhone 12. I recall using a couple of different Android phones and tablets successfully but I cannot test today as I no longer have the devices or they are no longer running the stock Android on them... I do recall you had to enable USB Debugging in the Android OS before they would work.
@@luisvaldez6204Oh, and another viewer posted the following comment recently "When you flash the firmware given by your zip files, it can only communicate with Apple devices, android devices will still remain in the same disconnected state, even with usb debugging and every cord and device I own. I only have android devices. After a week of struggling (the first time) I finally found the solution. The controller needs to be updated to 1.3.2 before it will work with android. From there is needs to be updated even more to be used, this can be done ota through the controller. My dads iphone 7 saved the day twice now. Happy flying! "
My phantom 3 started lost the video Transmission to application for no reasons, everything else is working perfect except there is no video, last time I did fly my drone everything was good, please what could be the reason, I already replaced the Rebon but that wasn't the reason, please what needs to be replaced, thanks 🙏♥️
I did everything according to the instructions, but there were errors in nand, it was stitched without problems as in the video from the second time, I put nothing changed as I did not see the remote control, the phone does not see it. the procedure was performed on windows 8.1 (32) USB-TTL CP2102
If there were error messages when the sfh_DM36x -nandflash program ran then my suspicion is the NAND chip itself has failed or has a solder problem on your board. That is not an easy fix usually requiring special soldering equipment and skills.
Hi, thanks for the video, seeing it done is alway useful. However I am deaf and reliant on the subtitles which I have found are often rather difficult to follow on ANY youtube. Can you please clarify the following points, 1) around 13 minutes you disconnect the +5V, why and is it mean to remain disconnected for the reprogramming etc.? 2) Around 15min you 'say' "this time I'm gonna hold the BTS 15:11 ALV wire onto the 3.3 volt as I plug it 15:15 in we will get different messages so now 15:19 the board has booted into a boot me mode 15:24 and it just sits there saying boot me " Are you talking about connecting BTSELV pad to the 3.3V pin on the USB-TTL device? If so is it a momentary contact or do you leave it connected?. In a phantom pilots article phantompilots.com/threads/fixing-flash-programming-in-dm365-chip-within-gl300-remote-controller.144123/ a wire is soldered between the BTSELV pad and an adjacent 3.3V pad. I have followed you video and see what you show etc. i.e. repeated bootme's, then the program running and halting etc. and requiring the reissue of the command after which it seems to work and I get the "operation completed successfully" message but when I reboot the board I am back to the repeated bootme messages. Any ideas?
OK, let me have at it and thanks for making me more aware of this issue so I can try to be more descriptive in future. 1) around 13 minutes you disconnect the +5V, why and is it mean to remain disconnected for the reprogramming etc.? I disconnect the +5V but leave the FTDI adapter plugged in to keep Putty happy just so I don't error out of Putty and keep having to reopen Putty... lazy... 2) Around 15min you 'say' "this time I'm gonna hold the BTS Just before that I show a boot without the BTSELV connected wire shorted to 3.3v and it fails to boot, then I say I am holding the wire to 3.3V and power on and I get the BOOTME message. 15:11 ALV wire onto the 3.3 volt as I plug it 15:15 in we will get different messages so now 15:19 the board has booted into a boot me mode The above 3 are related to 2... to put the board into the special boot mode to receive the upload you have to connect BTSELV to 3.3V on power up. 15:24 and it just sits there saying boot me " Are you talking about connecting BTSELV pad to the 3.3V pin on the USB-TTL device? If so is it a momentary contact or do you leave it connected?. In a phantom pilots article phantompilots.com/threads/fixing-flash-programming-in-dm365-chip-within-gl300-remote-controller.144123/ a wire is soldered between the BTSELV pad and an adjacent 3.3V pad.
So good question here... It is a momentary connection on boot I found. The BTSELV wire connects to the 3.3V pad on the board that is close to BTSELV. This is the soldering part at 8:04 where I say I am soldering the wire to the BTSELV pad so I can hold it to the 3.3V pad on power up. I have followed you video and see what you show etc. i.e. repeated bootme's, then the program running and halting etc. and requiring the reissue of the command after which it seems to work and I get the "operation completed successfully" message but when I reboot the board I am back to the repeated bootme messages. Any ideas? If you do not disconnect the BTSELV wire from 3.3V it will continue to boot in special boot mode and repeat BOOTME Hope this helps!
Hello, Has anyone got this to work on a GL658A controller? I see the two comments saying it will but wanted to confirm 100%. The GL658A is the first iteration of the Inspire 1 controller. If so does anyone have the bin files hosted somewhere?
hello my friend from indonesia i tried to follow the method you taught in the video, but when i try to connect the ttl to computer, my dji device doesn't read. please help my friend, thank you.
Well the first thing to try is to confirm that the TTL adapter is working. If you connect Tx to Rx directly on the TTL adapter and open the putty connection you thould be able to type and the characters will appear in the putty window. Confirm that works first.
now i have another problem i have a phantom3pro that displays no video and this happened after an unsuccessful firmware upgrade, is there a way to reflash the gimbal main board there is a video but its in german!!lol ua-cam.com/video/boK1ZFy0phw/v-deo.html , it is clear uses a very close technique but the jumpers to enter boot me mode is not clear!!??
I looked at that German video and basically the exact same as my video but using different files that the author makes available on Google Drive to download. Same FTDI adapter, same PUTTY program, same procedure just solder to the pads he shows in his video and use the files he has on his download. Just ignore the words and follow my procedure with his file and his connection points.
@@mj-is3kd My guess is you jumper two of the pads to get in bootme mode. In one of the comments someone posted the text of the video in english (crude but somewhat helpful)
@@mj-is3kd Also interesting is that in the comment where someone asks for an english version someone else points at my video as the solution... small world...
hello Terry iagain heres a link for p3pro gimbal main board flashing any one with no image in djigo app after a firmware update bricked gimbal board this is the solution www.dropbox.com/s/nvuokqo3iv5rh54/ph3pns.zip?dl=0 for more info search the thread of fixing gimbal board on phantom pilots forum hats up to all heros every where who shared there exceptional work
After three years this still holds up quite well. bought a P3A from marketplace for $250. Ended up figuring out the connection problems must be related to this board. This is the only real guide I could find and it was so dead accurate. I cannot express my gratitude enough. I would have hated to spend another $150 on a controller! YOU SIR, ARE A GOLDEN GOD!
Awesome. This is what makes it worth doing. Thanks.
@@tjones99 after some time has passed, I have now done this method twice. The first board was damaged recently after the controller was dropped and hung by the cord (broken usb port) instead of replacing the port, I bought a "untested" board from Ebay. Did the same thing as before and got the same result. There is something to add that is not mentioned in your video or comments that I am sure can help someone other than me. It occured both times, the first time making me wonder if confirmation the board was working was false hope. When you flash the firmware given by your zip files, it can only communicate with Apple devices, android devices will still remain in the same disconnected state, even with usb debugging and every cord and device I own. I only have android devices. After a week of struggling (the first time) I finally found the solution. The controller needs to be updated to 1.3.2 before it will work with android. From there is needs to be updated even more to be used, this can be done ota through the controller. My dads iphone 7 saved the day twice now. Happy flying!
after some time has passed, I have now done this method twice. The first board was damaged recently after the controller was dropped and hung by the cord (broken usb port) instead of replacing the port, I bought a "untested" board from Ebay. Did the same thing as before and got the same result. There is something to add that is not mentioned in your video or comments that I am sure can help someone other than me. It occured both times, the first time making me wonder if confirmation the board was working was false hope. When you flash the firmware given by your zip files, it can only communicate with Apple devices, android devices will still remain in the same disconnected state, even with usb debugging and every cord and device I own. I only have android devices. After a week of struggling (the first time) I finally found the solution. The controller needs to be updated to 1.3.2 before it will work with android. From there is needs to be updated even more to be used, this can be done ota through the controller. My dads iphone 7 saved the day twice now. Happy flying!
So i just have to say .. you just saved me a ton of time dealing with DJI .. heres a thumbs up my friend !!! Keep making videos like these
And that makes it worth making the video. Thx.
Sir I owe you a drink, I have been pulling my hair out for two days trying to figure out how to flash it and you made it so simple for me, this worked on a inspire1 controller, Thank you!!
It’s comments like this that make it all worth doing! Glad it helped.
Thx
So grateful to you for making this video!! Worked great!!! Otherwise so hard getting information on these things from companies like DJI who would prefer you to buy a new drone!!!
Makes it all worth the effort when it helps someone! Thanks.
I wanted to say thanks, this video helped me recover an otherwise "dead" GL300A board today. Definitely keep making videos like these :). It was a little bit finicky, but I eventually got it working on a windows 10 laptop, and running the command prompt as admin and with "use legacy console" option checked. I figured as I had gotten far enough to see BOOTME, and the first flash attempt there was something out of "sync" with their TX and RX messaging. In case it helps someone else, when I didn't go that route I kept getting stuck on the second flash attempt with and endless loop of these error messages (which I couldn't find much out there searching these):
"Image data sent...
Waiting for DONE...
Target: UART Receive Error
Target: Starting UART Boot...
Target: BOOTUBL
Waiting for SFT on the DM36x...
Target: Starting UART Boot...
Target: BOOTUBL
BOOTUBL commmand received. Returning CMD and command...
CMD value sent. Waiting for DONE...
Target: DONE
DONE received. Command was accepted.
Sending the UBL image
Waiting for SENDIMG sequence...
Target: SENDIMG
SENDIMG received. Returning ACK and header for image data...
ACK command sent. Waiting for BEGIN command...
Target: BEGIN
BEGIN commmand received.
100% [ ]
Image data sent..."
Thanks for the post. Hope this helps others.
Вы решили эту ошибку на втором этапе загрузки DM36x? i also have this error and go beyond the second stage of the download does not go
hats up to you mr Terry i have just ran the method and saved me loss of my gl300A , thanks a lot for sharing... one thing to note that the ftdi adapter didnot work i dinot know why only a ttl usb adapter did the job communicating correctly in the whole method
Thanks for the feedback. Sometimes it is hard to get the FTDI drivers to install in Windows 10 because some of them use unsigned drivers. There is a special boot mode in Windows 10 that you can get into for one restart that allows you to install unsigned drivers. Great instruction on that at www.maketecheasier.com/install-unsigned-drivers-windows10/
And I can't take full credit... all the details posted by others in the forum made this video possible.
been looking into why it wasnt working for a month and this solved my problem
Glad it helped. Makes it worth the effort!
Still works after a few years (2024) got a good deal on a p3p ( said it need a controller) lol and then I come across your video. Worked perfectly and thanks so much for sharing it with us all .my only question is can the board be updated where I can only use iPad ? I tryed but it failed. THANKS AGAIN. You are the man
@@dannorm5760 I am not aware of any upgrade to work with other devices.
I was really excited when I watched your video, because a week ago my P3Pro exhibited this exact problem for the first time. Mine does have HDMI, and the bottom of the RC clearly says GL300A. Unfortunately, the controller board does not have the markings as the one in the video to specify what the contacts are. I wonder if it actually still has a 300A board or if during the HDMI upgrade (previous owner) the board was changed to a 300B 0r 300C controller board?
Not aware of a solution. Sorry.
@@tjones99 That's what I am finding out, but thanks for confirming that. I know a new board can be purchased for a boatload of money on Amazon, but how would I know for sure that this is the problem? The symptoms are the same. The drone sat for 9 mos and then I flew it three times in a week with no problem. 2 days after the last flight I started up the drone and the RC but the video would not connect. I can raise and lower the gymbal, but I'm really afraid to fly without the video feed.
Thank you so much for putting this together. Love seeing the Unreal Tournament icon on your desktop :)
Sadly still playing Unreal. There’s 1200 hours of my life I will never get back. LOL.
@@tjones99 No regrets! It’s a great game. I still play it once in awhile too. Thanks again for taking the time to make this video in such detail. You made a little boy happy he can fly his drone again!
This is a great demo .. Can this be done on the newer board for the GL300C
As far as I know, no.
I didn't think so but I had to ask .. looks like I'll be buying one ..
Hi Terry, Thank you for putting this together. I'm still having some issues with the controller after following this tutorial. I followed the instructions and everything seemed to match up perfectly; same error codes, same dialog during the flash process, and same dialog once it was flashed. I reassembled everything and now I'm still not able to connect to the controller (no auto boot into DJI go app, not able to go into camera view, etc.). All it does is start charging my phone or iPad. I reconnected the board to putty and it's still showing a successful boot. Have any other thoughts on how to proceed?
Another satisfied customer here with a now fixed Phantom GL300A controller. Thanks!!!
Any idea what causes this, or if the reprogramming is a permanent fix? Will this possibly happen again sometime in the future?
My understanding is that the flash cells may be deteriorating and losing their ability to retain which sounds bad BUT as I understand the issue the act of powering on refreshes the cells so the key is to not leave your drone idle for months. Just turn it on every month or do.
I should add I have only had to do it once.
@@tjones99 Super. Thanks for the info.
I wanna buy some new board but they all miss the 3 ic’s and idk if they will work and I tried to flash the old one with arduino (5v rx tx) prob blew it up so I’m in need of replacement 😅
I appreciate the video you have made on this. I just ordered the ftdi board and am going to give this a shot when it arrives. Thanks!
Takes a bit of skill soldering little wires on to hook to the FTDI board. Also another tip I found is that if your FTDI board has a CH340 chip and you have trouble getting drivers to install on Windows 10 look up how to install unsigned drivers in Windows 10.
@@tjones99 thank you!
@@tjones99 just a thought. Not sure where your located but would you consider trying to reflash 2 of my boards for a fee?
Lift-off-Life I live in Toronto. Drop me a note to tjones99@gmail.com
@@lift-off-life760 did you ever get yours working?
do you happen to have the info for the transmitter comm board?
Sorry I do not.
Thank you very much for your video.
Do you thy Is this method working for GL658?
There are snippits in this thread that imply maybe... I have not tried.
phantompilots.com/threads/fixing-flash-programming-in-dm365-chip-within-gl300-remote-controller.144123/
Can someone confirm this will work with a GL658 Inspire controller?
The GL658A sitting on my desk unrepaired says this will NOT work with it...
Oh crap buddy 🥲🥲
I am 99% sure that i have a GL658 and it worked for me. I just har to boot it in bootme mode and just pull the code. I did not Get any readings from it in putty. But then i booted in bootme. And after that i could see the booting in putty. Again im not a 100% sure but i think i have a GL658. Its the original inspire 1 controller.
Hello I am about to try this process on my board. Just one question do you just touch the wire to enter boot mode when powered on or does both ends have to stay connected
Just touch them as you power up to get into boot mode.
Hi. Great video, thanks. My Phantom 3 Pro had no damage and hardly flew. It connects fine, can even fly the drone, but the is no video at all. I have a different USB board on my controller, there is no components on the back. I can see the histogram on my software, that change if I change the video environment, but there is no video at all. Struggling for a long time now to figure out what it is. Any advise, please?
What is the model number of your controller?
@@tjones99 Hi. Thank you for your response. It is a GL300B
@@demetrismit3090 This apparently does not apply to GL300B and GL300C if you read
phantompilots.com/threads/fixing-flash-programming-in-dm365-chip-within-gl300-remote-controller.144123/
Have you tried a USB firmware update on your controller through the app?
@@tjones99 Thanks Terry. I really appreciate your time. Yes, I do not see any processor IC on the board. So that leave me with the question, why is my video not showing, but can see the histogram for the footage. Much appreciated.
@@demetrismit3090 Sorry but you are beyond my abilities with your particular controller.
Hi Terry,
What is the name of the connectors you use? Do you have a link to where you buy them at all?
Thank you for the video, got the USB coming in a few weeks and trying this asap but can't figure what the connectors are
I assume you are talking about the little red wires that have connectors on the end to plug onto the FTDI board (USB FTDI board). Those are just simple dupont connectors on wires. The ones pictured were just female to female wires that I cut in half so two wires cut in half gave me 4 dupont to bare wires. Search for female to female dupont in ebay or amazon and you will find some.
@@tjones99 thank you Terry, true gent! I'l look them up now!
Terry, a question about how you soldered the leads on the board. I noticed you just touched the tip of the iron on top of the stripped lead wire and pad but didn't have an obvious source of solder. Do you use a paste on the pad or the stripped end of the lead? Or solder the end of the lead and then melt that again when pressing the lead against the pad?
Also, I've got a GL300B controller that just this weekend progressively stopped showing the video stream and then stopped being recognized by an Android tablet (using two different USB cables.) Also tested unsuccessfully with an iPhone 7 and an iPhone 6. I can get into the Go app but it says "disconnected" and no amount of fiddling seems to restore the connection. It worked fine the weekend prior to this. I'm hoping the control board for the GL300B will behave the same with this process as those with an GL300A.
Thanks.
Edit: Just opened up the GL300B controller and the USB control board looks nothing like the one in the video. The bottom of the board (the side opposite the USB connectors,) is completely blank with no SMC's and no pads other than the ones for the USB connectors themselves and two copper colored dots marked 1765_P1 and 1765_P4. There are some SMCs on the side with the USB connectors and what might be pads but none are labeled. There's a label saying: P01213.02 and a sticker saying: 04EJA 57104. Guess that takes care of that.
Sorry, for some reason I missed that you had posted a message. I think in the video I "tinned" the pads on the board which if you don't spend a lot of time soldering means you make sure they are coated with a fresh blob of clean new solder, and off camera I did the same for the ends of the wires so both wire ends and solder pads on the PCB (printed circuit board) had fresh solder so then all you have to do is put the two together and apply heat and they melt together. Soldering 101...
So your board looks different... do not give up... Have a look at the pictures at phantompilots.com/threads/fixing-flash-programming-in-dm365-chip-within-gl300-remote-controller.144123/ and see if that looks like your board... if so then my video is just a reference and those instructions should apply.
did u find a fix in the end?
@@aceboogie1775 I did not. I think the problem was caused by a bad USB cable that may have shorted the board. I ended up buying another controller. The old controller is a GL300B and the new one is a GL300D but it works fine with the Phantom 3 pro. Thanks.
@@stevek731 i bought a new usb board for the back and still had the same problem so im guessing its my main board on the controller i just bought a second hand controller with 50 percent charge problem for £35 im going to swap the board and see what happens should be here tomorrow
Brilliant! Thank you so much. I am back in the air again.
Awesome! Glad it helped.
hello terry first ultra thanks for the effort and most important for sharing it , a lot of us semi diy guys like dji products for technology and reliability , but hate how closed dji stuff are , any way my question hopfully you answer should it be a ttl module used to communicate with the board you repaired or i can use ftr32 ?? is there a flashing method for the gimbal main board if it goes bricked
Never heard of an ftr32 board... ftdi and ftdi 232 board will work... virtually anyything that is seen as a COM port on the PC and translates the communication at a 3.3V logic level will work... And I am sure there is a way to reflash a gimbal board but I haven't gone there yet... have a look at phantompilots.com/threads/fixing-flash-in-dm365-chip-within-ph3-pro-gimbal.127310/ on that one... it starts off way in the deep end with resoldering a BGA flash chip... then talks about reflashing... but I think there will be a lot of reading between the lines on that one...
@@tjones99 ftdi 32 i meant, thanks for reply
Thanks! ... where did you learn to do this?
Well the basic skills of soldering and working with things like FTDI boards and RS232 devices has taken a lifetime... but others that posted the DJI specific stuff on the web that I just packaged into a video I can't take credit for... they did the heavy lifting here...
I did it Terry thank's alot...🙏And thanks for the zip file too🙏
Awesome! The soldering can be a bit delicate... but the reality is even if you have to buy EVERYTHING you need including a simple T12 soldering station with a nice fine tip and good temperature control for $55 its still worth having a crack at it!
@@tjones99 Thanks Terry, now still pandemi arround the world...Certainly in Indonesia.I'm still dosn't have enogh money to buy that,couse the pandemi(COVID),i loose my job...😭.The drone can be fixed couse your tutorial makes me happy.Thanks alot Terry for your suggest...🙏
Will this work with GL300C controller too?
Sorry, I can't say. No experience with the 300C. For sure you would need different firmware than what I link to in the description... pretty sure the firmware I point at would brick the 300C
Hi Terry. I have phantom 3 advanced with gl300c transmitter. I have no camera view.. There is different USB board like on your video.. But I put USB board from working controller and its no working. I pairing with other controller everything is fine so problem is on main board.. Any suggestion? There is hard to buy main board to that model
From reading the following my understanding is things are not done the same way on the GL300B and GL300C controllers (phantompilots.com/threads/fixing-flash-programming-in-dm365-chip-within-gl300-remote-controller.144123/) so this fix will not work for your controller. I have zero experience with the GL300C I am afraid. Sorry.
@@tjones99 ye problably best way is buy mother board. or new controller and from no working sell for spares ;/
@@kodi00703 I am always watching eBay fir cheap DJI controllers. They come up for about $75US if you are patient.
If you get a strong charge and it never goes away, is it pretty safe to assume it’s not dead?
You mean if you get a strong battery charge? I actually believe it should be turned on infrequently as well because I am pretty sure the flash cells get their charge when read _OR_ written and that only happens when on as far as I know. But I am leaning towards this happening more frequently when battery is flat.
Terry I have a Phantom 3 Professional and it lost video after sitting for about 3 months. Never had a problem before that. Even now I can fly the quad copter and it records video but I can't see what the camera sees. Flying blind is risky. My problem is I don't have a PC computer (I'm a Mac guy) and while I basically understand what you are doing, gearing up would be costly. Is there someplace where I can get a board for my GL300B controller and just do a board swap?
I see two boards listed on ebay that might solve your issue... alternatively if you want to mail me your board I can try the similar procedure on the GL300B board that I did on my GL300A board and see if that behaves...
@@tjones99 Terry, thanks for getting back to me. I saw the two boards on Ebay and the price is not too bad. I contacted a drone repair service and they told me to look at buying another Phantom 3 since it would be about the same cost as having me send in the drone and having them fix it. A board swap seems sooo much better. I'll get the board out of the controller and see what it looks like and get back to you. If I have you try reprogramming the board, would you need my controller to see if it works?
Don Loftus no. Just the board.
Hello, what about changing the usb board for testing?, would it work, or you have to program it any way
Cristian Andres Duhalde Beddig (LATAM) pretty sure replacing the board would work.
Terry Jones thank you, will test with another board I have, if it work I will follow your great tutorial for flashing the bad one, thank you for the video 👍
Hi Terry. The link to the bin files does not work. Can you please share the files to me?
Well thats interesting... the upload file was still there, but the old link pointed to tjhs.ca.... and when I look at the link provided by Wordpress now its www.tjhs.ca....
Short answer is try again... should be fixed now. thanks for pointing it out and letting me know.
Just spent more time looking at this and I am leaning towards it being just a web hosting issue.
www.tjhs.ca/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/DJI_GL300A_USB.zip
www.tjhs.ca/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/DJI_GL300A_USB.zip
tjhs.ca/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/DJI_GL300A_USB.zip
tjhs.ca/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/DJI_GL300A_USB.zip
All URLS that point at the same place seem to be working fine now.
Would it be easier to do it on windows 7 or 10. If it is easier to use windows 7 can a use a vm(virtual
machine)?
I had no issues on Windows 10 so not sure adding the extra layer of complexity makes sense.
Hello. I plugged the device into a usb port and nothing happens. Then i turned off the 5 volt power and there was an unreadable string that slowly continues. I saw after this line the inscription "dji repair" appeared. I don't have that happening. When do i disconnect my device from the usb to make a reboot?
Not sure when you say "I plugged the device into a USB port" what "device" is... is that just the USB adapter or is that the USB adapter (FTDI board) soldered to the controller board or what?
Normally you are NOT disconnecting the device from the USB port. You are unplugging the 5V line from the FTDI adapter as shown in the video.
@@tjones99 Everything ends at the 1st stage of loading when you need to press any key to reset the error. And the download actually starts but ends with an error. I use windows 11. I think maybe I should try to install windows7 specifically. And here is the message itself: Interfacing to the dm36x via UART failed. Please reset or power-cycle the board and try again.
@@ДмитрийФедотов-р3п I am using Windows 10 and I do not expect much difference with 11 so I do not think that is the issue. If the download ends with an error I am worried that perhaps your flash chip has failed and not just lost its contents.
Hopefully you are still fielding comments on this video...I did everything as seen in the video. Got to BOOTME, BOOTME etc... ran the prompt [sfh_DM36x -nandflash -v -p "COM6" ubl1_hdmi.bin u-boot_hdmi.bin] and this is where I get an error...
it says in the cmd window...
Attempting to connect to device COM3...
Press any key to end this program at any time.
Waiting for the DM36x...
The I/O operation has been aborted because of either a thread exit or an application request.
Interfacing to the DM36x via UART failed.
Please reset or power-cycle the board and try again...
Any suggestions? I get this message repeatedly after re-attempting this tutorial. Thanks. I was happy to get as far as I got but now I'm just stuck with more useless electronic paperweights after this failure. What could I have done wrong? My solders seem fine - but who knows?
So just to start with the obvious. You mention your command as using COM6 But your error is COM3???
@@tjones99 sorry - yes- my com port is 3. And yes - I changed it to "COM3" in the prompt....
Ok - after reading your edit in the bottom of the description about updating the drivers, I was able to get it to work. I have a Win10 system and after updating drivers and rebooting computer, the communication from the computer to the DM card worked. Next I will be trying to see if the drone allows the RC to connect in Camera mode on the app. We'll see tomorrow. There are several comments in here that indicated that doing all of this didn't help with their problem of connecting the RC to the app. I'll let you know. Thanks for the tutorial - even if this doesn't work, I am enjoying the whole process as much as a complex jigsaw puzzle.
Well, after putting Humpty Dumpty back together again... still no 'Camera' view popping up on the phone when it is plugged into the RC. Bummer. I had high hopes for this fix. The only thing I have left to try is the last thing you have listed in your description edits - trying to connect it first to an apple product (which I don't have) to see if the apple connection allows me to connect to the RC in order to upgrade the firmware using the app. I'll post back here if I get any results.
HELLO TERRY AGAIN i faced a problem in the method of flashing the gimbal , the putty is not reading it on the same ttlusb i used to flash the gl300A, do you think if putty is not reading can i do a blind flashing??? i mean i make the connection then jump the booting and running the command promt and type the reflash orders?? what do you say may that work??? or it may do a harm?? by the way when i make the connection to ttl usb and set in comport and buad rate the putty does not display any communication, but the gimbal board is has an led blinking .the supply voltage in this repair is 5v according to video, i tried the 3.3v instead but the gimbal board didnot even blink .
Unlikely. If you are not seeing the BOOTME message then no good. Try swapping the Rx and Tx on the ftdi and see.
Hmmm. How are you powering the gimbal board?
@@tjones99 i powered it from the ftdi(ttl usb in my case) it self, when i use the 3.3v the ttl will not be defined as a com port( unknown device) and will not launch the putty on that port, when i use the 5v option i t opens the comport in putty and the board status led blinks green for some time then red but no serial data received on putty?! i tried the ftdi32 same results, by the way the guy used a seperate board to power the board thats why he used two grounds
m j putty not seeing your ftdi boards is the first issue. The ftdi should be 3.3v. First get that working without the gimbal board even connected. Connect ftdi Tx to ftdi Rx and plug the ftdi into your computer not connected to gimbal board. Should show up as COM Portland with Rx to Tx what you type in putty should appear in putty window.
Then find a way to provide 5v power to the gimbal board. What might work is your second ftdi board set to 5v and only hook up 5v and ground from it. First ftdi at 3.3v hook up Rx Tx and ground for communication only. Alternatively get a 5v dc power adapter.
Thanks for an awesome video. I'm getting an error with PuTTY saying "error reading device" every time I plug the 5v pin into my FTDI programmer (using an arduino uno - maybe that's the problem?). Any advice?
What it sounds like to me is you are confusing a "USB-ASP" type programmer and an FTDI adapter. You can use an UNO as a programmer, and I suspect there is a way to program an UNO as an FTDI adapter (overkill)... but you really want to be using a simple USB to TTL adapter not a "programmer".
I have a USBASP programmer that I can program devices by connecting to their ICSP port, but that is a more low level type communication using data and clock lines to transfer data where the FTDI adapter (USB to TTL adapter) is just a form of RS232 type serial communication over logic levels rather than real RS232 levels for long distances.
@@tjones99 Thanks for the reply. I thought it was just a simple USB-TTL converter. I followed the instructions in this video: ua-cam.com/video/qqSLwK1DP8Q/v-deo.html
I am using a nano clone though so it may have its own weird nuances making things tricky. I'm able to write arduino sketches to the nano so I think the drivers are all in order but can't get the controller's usb board to talk. I'll probably just spend a few dollars and a few days getting one like the one you used. Thanks!
I wonder if it could have something to do with not being able to select the logic level with the arduino? Since you can select 3.3 or 5v with the adapter you used. Oh well, ordered one. I hope it works!
@@devindorius5449 OK, thanks for the link to the Arduino to FTDI approach... that falls under the heading of "learn something every day". I just took a NANO and jumpered RST to GND and talked to it with PuTTY and it worked fine... (are you using an UNO or a NANO? First comment says UNO second says NANO?)
But...
Your next comment IS spot on (but not the only issue I believe). You can buy a NANO in 3.3V or 5V models... So to get correct logic levels you should be using a 3.3V NANO.
So a NANO does have 3 power pins... 3.3V, 5V and Vin (and I suspect that's the same on both the 3.3V and the 5V models from what I read but I only have 5V NANO on hand) and specs that I read say that max 50ma is available from them. This may be too low to power the DJI board... or it may be that the power on surge when the 5V is connected to the NANO causes a momentary power drop that resets the CH340 chip that is talking to PuTTY... or it may be that your DJI board has other issues and is pulling 5V too low due to excess current drain. If you are using a 5V NANO then you are pushing too much voltage into the DJI board and that's not a good thing and that can cause the chips to get into odd modes that draw too much current. But if you are using a 3.3V NANO then you might try powering the DJI board 5V from another source and see if that works better.
@@tjones99 My apologies, it's an UNO. I use nanos for just about everything else and mistyped. I'm thinking I must be pushing 5v into the DJI board. Hopefully that is at least part of the issue. I really appreciate your help on this, btw!
You are God bro
I just got my drone back
Thanks. That’s what makes it worth the effort. Knowing it helped.
Thank you so much!! Worked like a charm!!
And that makes it all worth while!
and do you need to flash the remote control with firmware after this procedure?
I did not have to flash my RC (remote control) after updating my firmware. I think another comment below mentioned that but in my case I did not have to. I may have just been lucky with the version my RC was already at.
@@tjones99 the problem is that I do not know what version of RC was, I got the drone already with the remote control not working. and since the phone does not connect, I do not know the firmware version of the drone. can except ubl1_hdmi.bin and U-boot_hdmi.bin what else to flash? in another branch, I found the firmware ubl1_prop.img, ubl2_prop.img, u-boot_prop.img, uImage. why is it*. img and not *. bin
@@djtoxa83 Did the sfh_DM36x -nandflash command execute without errors? Your other comment implies there were errors.
@@tjones99I understand you need to try to flash the firmware 1.3.20 from a USB flash drive or start with the first one? what was your RC version after restoring the remote
@@tjones99 errors were at the first inclusion in PuTTY as well as you, and at sfh_DM36x-nandflash everything as on video from the second time flashed.
Thank you for the Vid and the files.. After flashing the board my phone now detects communication with the Remote Control. (before it was just detected as charging device). However I still dint get access to camera on the DJI GO app.. On my windows 7 computer when i plug it in, I only see "DJI USB Virtual COM 4" in Ports.. the DJI Assistant Does not detect the Remote Control.
So while recently working with some LightBridge units I found there are multiple versions of DJI Assistant... at least 3 versions... and I found that one version detected my LightBridge 1 unit but not my LightBridge 2 unit and a third detected only my drones... I suspect you may be using the incorrect version. It seems you can download and install all versions on the same machine...
www.dji.com/ca/downloads/softwares/assistant-dji-lightbridge
www.dji.com/ca/downloads/softwares/assistant-dji-2
www.dji.com/ca/downloads/softwares/dji-assistant-2-consumer-drones-series
So try the different versions of Assistant and see if any of them connect...
@@tjones99 phantom 3 pro is not on the supported drones list on any of these 3 versions.
@@luisvaldez6204Sorry... I was just working on some LightBridge units and the above reply was applicable to them not Phantom 3 Professional...
I do not believe that I ever connected the Phantom 3 Professional (P3P) to my PC and had anything more than what you are seeing on the PC in device manager... at least not connecting to any DJI software like Assistant... Once I had done the flash procedure using the TI flash utility and Putty etc, I then connected the controller to my phone and used the DJI GO app on the phone to connect to the controller and the drone and get live video. I just did it again to test and with my iPhone running the DJI GO app without the controller connected I see the connect to your device screen, and as soon as I plugged in the controller via USB lightning cable the app immediately knew it was connected to a Phantom 3 Professional and said Aircraft Connected. When I click Camera I see the drone camera view.
But... my recollection when first doing this was I ran into a number of issues when I was using different cables to my phone (tablet) and different phones (tablets). Specifically your cable must be a charge AND sync cable... many are charge only. And regarding phones... I had some android devices that I was never able to get DJI GO to work with. So make sure you are using a device that is known to work with the DJI GO app. I have personally successfully used iPhone 7, iPhone 12 mini and iPhone 12. I recall using a couple of different Android phones and tablets successfully but I cannot test today as I no longer have the devices or they are no longer running the stock Android on them... I do recall you had to enable USB Debugging in the Android OS before they would work.
@@luisvaldez6204Oh, and another viewer posted the following comment recently
"When you flash the firmware given by your zip files, it can only communicate with Apple devices, android devices will still remain in the same disconnected state, even with usb debugging and every cord and device I own. I only have android devices. After a week of struggling (the first time) I finally found the solution. The controller needs to be updated to 1.3.2 before it will work with android. From there is needs to be updated even more to be used, this can be done ota through the controller. My dads iphone 7 saved the day twice now. Happy flying! "
Thanks for that info. it makes sense@@tjones99
My phantom 3 started lost the video Transmission to application for no reasons, everything else is working perfect except there is no video, last time I did fly my drone everything was good, please what could be the reason, I already replaced the Rebon but that wasn't the reason, please what needs to be replaced, thanks 🙏♥️
What is the model number on your remote control?
I did everything according to the instructions, but there were errors in nand, it was stitched without problems as in the video from the second time, I put nothing changed as I did not see the remote control, the phone does not see it. the procedure was performed on windows 8.1 (32) USB-TTL CP2102
If there were error messages when the sfh_DM36x -nandflash program ran then my suspicion is the NAND chip itself has failed or has a solder problem on your board. That is not an easy fix usually requiring special soldering equipment and skills.
Hi, thanks for the video, seeing it done is alway useful. However I am deaf and reliant on the subtitles which I have found are often rather difficult to follow on ANY youtube.
Can you please clarify the following points,
1) around 13 minutes you disconnect the +5V, why and is it mean to remain disconnected for the reprogramming etc.?
2) Around 15min you 'say' "this time I'm gonna hold the BTS
15:11 ALV wire onto the 3.3 volt as I plug it
15:15 in we will get different messages so now
15:19 the board has booted into a boot me mode
15:24 and it just sits there saying boot me " Are you talking about connecting BTSELV pad to the 3.3V pin on the USB-TTL device? If so is it a momentary contact or do you leave it connected?. In a phantom pilots article phantompilots.com/threads/fixing-flash-programming-in-dm365-chip-within-gl300-remote-controller.144123/ a wire is soldered between the BTSELV pad and an adjacent 3.3V pad.
I have followed you video and see what you show etc. i.e. repeated bootme's, then the program running and halting etc. and requiring the reissue of the command after which it seems to work and I get the "operation completed successfully" message but when I reboot the board I am back to the repeated bootme messages.
Any ideas?
I will address you’re queries when I get home from the lake and am on a fast internet and a full sized screen.
@@tjones99 excellent, thanks.
OK, let me have at it and thanks for making me more aware of this issue so I can try to be more descriptive in future.
1) around 13 minutes you disconnect the +5V, why and is it mean to remain disconnected for the reprogramming etc.?
I disconnect the +5V but leave the FTDI adapter plugged in to keep Putty happy just so I don't error out of Putty and keep having to reopen Putty... lazy...
2) Around 15min you 'say' "this time I'm gonna hold the BTS
Just before that I show a boot without the BTSELV connected wire shorted to 3.3v and it fails to boot, then I say I am holding the wire to 3.3V and power on and I get the BOOTME message.
15:11 ALV wire onto the 3.3 volt as I plug it
15:15 in we will get different messages so now
15:19 the board has booted into a boot me mode
The above 3 are related to 2... to put the board into the special boot mode to receive the upload you have to connect BTSELV to 3.3V on power up.
15:24 and it just sits there saying boot me " Are you talking about connecting BTSELV pad to the 3.3V pin on the USB-TTL device? If so is it a momentary contact or do you leave it connected?. In a phantom pilots article phantompilots.com/threads/fixing-flash-programming-in-dm365-chip-within-gl300-remote-controller.144123/ a wire is soldered between the BTSELV pad and an adjacent 3.3V pad.
So good question here... It is a momentary connection on boot I found. The BTSELV wire connects to the 3.3V pad on the board that is close to BTSELV. This is the soldering part at 8:04 where I say I am soldering the wire to the BTSELV pad so I can hold it to the 3.3V pad on power up.
I have followed you video and see what you show etc. i.e. repeated bootme's, then the program running and halting etc. and requiring the reissue of the command after which it seems to work and I get the "operation completed successfully" message but when I reboot the board I am back to the repeated bootme messages.
Any ideas?
If you do not disconnect the BTSELV wire from 3.3V it will continue to boot in special boot mode and repeat BOOTME
Hope this helps!
You, good sir, are a life saver.
Glad it helped!!!
Hello, Has anyone got this to work on a GL658A controller? I see the two comments saying it will but wanted to confirm 100%. The GL658A is the first iteration of the Inspire 1 controller. If so does anyone have the bin files hosted somewhere?
I cannot confirm, but if you get an answer please post it here!
hello my friend from indonesia i tried to follow the method you taught in the video, but when i try to connect the ttl to computer, my dji device doesn't read. please help my friend, thank you.
Well the first thing to try is to confirm that the TTL adapter is working. If you connect Tx to Rx directly on the TTL adapter and open the putty connection you thould be able to type and the characters will appear in the putty window. Confirm that works first.
Worked for me too, many thanks!
Thx for the feedback. Glad you are back in business.
Thank you very much.
Glad it helped!
Nice job Sir..
thanks Terry ....
Hello
Hello.
you are good!
I can’t take credit. I just videoed what others had posted.
now i have another problem i have a phantom3pro that displays no video and this happened after an unsuccessful firmware upgrade, is there a way to reflash the gimbal main board there is a video but its in german!!lol ua-cam.com/video/boK1ZFy0phw/v-deo.html , it is clear uses a very close technique but the jumpers to enter boot me mode is not clear!!??
I looked at that German video and basically the exact same as my video but using different files that the author makes available on Google Drive to download. Same FTDI adapter, same PUTTY program, same procedure just solder to the pads he shows in his video and use the files he has on his download. Just ignore the words and follow my procedure with his file and his connection points.
@@tjones99 should i jump the points with blue lines in his connection image all three points or just one point ? and why did he use two grounds??
@@mj-is3kd My guess is you jumper two of the pads to get in bootme mode. In one of the comments someone posted the text of the video in english (crude but somewhat helpful)
@@mj-is3kd Also interesting is that in the comment where someone asks for an english version someone else points at my video as the solution... small world...
hello Terry iagain heres a link for p3pro gimbal main board flashing
any one with no image in djigo app after a firmware update bricked gimbal board this is the solution
www.dropbox.com/s/nvuokqo3iv5rh54/ph3pns.zip?dl=0
for more info search the thread of fixing gimbal board on phantom pilots forum
hats up to all heros every where who shared there exceptional work