Great idea! I'm going to use your cooling mod when I do my engine build. I can't understand the rush to remove the EGR. The EECV PCM uses the EGR to cool combustion temperatures by deluting the air/fuel mixture if temperatures get to high, to prevent damaging the Pistons. Back in the 70's before cars used computers and many of these pollution devices were 1st introduced they were slow and sluggish to respond, and performance was degraded. But today with modern technology and advanced computer controlled PCM's that has all changed. For example cars today, straight from the factory easily making 400, 500, 600 even 700 horsepower. All from a small block engine with catalytic converters.
Sweet. Ya I just did a egr delete and just ordered mmr cooling mod kit because I had a issue with mine. Still need it tuned but it's not going anywhere with the trans out :)
I just ordered the Gen2 HCM from Lethal. Gonna tap into the freeze plug up above by the egr tube without pulling anything but the egr, tube and fuel rail, sensor. Wish me luck! 😂😂
Gregory Craig all that about the functions of EGR are correct. But it's all about building HP. Now with that being said the EGR is not open at WOT so I'm not gonna ramble on about now 100% combustible air/gas can enter the chamber because I don't really need that at idle or part throttle "which is when it's open" But there's still that extra heat soak from the hot inert gasses going thru the aftercooler.
It most likely will not help overheat issue. It just provides a exit for coolant on drivers head. The tick for me was around 38,000mls ford replaced the head with a so called revised head, which still had the issue and cause Pistons to crack on cyl 7&8. If your having a overheat issue the head tick can happen that much faster
Nice. I've been fighting my 7 and 8 misfires, from valves sticking. So this is probably part of my problem. It's fine when cold, but as soon as it warms up, I get the rough idle, and money light. I've tried everything besides removing the head, with zero luck. It's those exhaust valves, and you just can't get to them like you can the intake side. I guess that if, or when I do fix it, this is something I should do.
definite love your videos. very informative man. i'm buying a terminator soon and it's modded to hell and back but still want to know what to look for when i get it in my hands. that header video made my night. lol i definitely want more loud
If you see the track or race your car it's worth doing this mod for sure! Otherwise, if you daily it without beating the balls off it. It's not worth doing it... Especially if you go with a 160 thermostat you'll be fine.
I did same thing, but I drilled new hole so it was straight up, then I eliminated egr. And my evap as matter of fact, then just program both features out. with an engine like that I'm guessing you're getting a tune so why not just program them out.
How was Ford able to skirt around a recall campaign to correct for oversight pertaining to this failure to provide adequate coolant flow from the rear of the left cylinder head?
No sorry I don't have p# but I did just replace that with the MMR kit and its a great product but you can beat the price of the stock setup $66 for stock tube then modified
So i just bought a set of 2005 revised DC heads. I just realized i may have an issue. I bought these heads used and noticed that the back of the passenger side head does not have a hole for the coolant to flow out.....why the heck would the passenger head have the plug???
2004dsgmach1 dang, i deleted my FB account a couple yrs ago... it's cool, I'm taking them to shop tomorrow to get them resurfaced and valve job. the shop specializes on mustangs so I'm sure he can answer my question. i just found it weird that it doesn't have an exit. thanks for reaching out though.
Ok no biggy. There is a freeze plug that you need to remove. It's a little circle thing that you can take out. Use the video as a reference to were the freeze plug is
How long did it take for the damage to occur to the engine I haven't developed any ticking noise yet but I have approximately 14,000 miles on my build but my car has gotten warm a few times I currently have the transmission pulled in the car and I want to add this modification to help my heating up issue
Ok so the cam sprockets and crank sprockets have these little dots on them as "timing marks" the chain will also have the dots on it so basically line up the dots but there's a few steps you need to take before the dots line up. First spin the motor over until cyl #1 is at TDC with valves closed on cyl#1 the crankshaft mark should be facing straight down. Then turn the cam sprockets until the sprocket marks are pointing up and then install the chain to each side. Just make sure all the dots line up
Do you know if a supercharger for a 4.6l 32v like you have here will fit on the 5.4L version of the 32 valve? My dad and I swapped a 2001 navigator 5.4l 32v motor into my 2001 F-250.
@@2004dsgmach1 thanks a lot, I want to get some power out of the engine with not a huge budget, is there anything other than a blower? Maybe bigger injectors and a tune?
William Ponds budget and build don’t go together my friend lol. All in for the Eaton swap on my Mach 1 was around $3400. Injectors, MAF, fuel pumps, tubes, the list goes one because your stock parts aren’t built for that demand, internals also, 4.6 are only good for around 475 then they pop. Not sure about 5.4 but they share a very similar rod (which is the weak point). Do some research and figure out if a 4.6 procharger kit will bolt to a 5.4. If yes then be on the lookout for a used one (usually less than $3000). Then fuel, MAF, etc..
Chris Zawacki. Yes I unfortunately did sell it but I sold it to a very good friend and will continue to post videos on it. I'm actually about to start a video series for "Mach engine build part 2" he fried a few pistons :(
Yes. With the head on a flat surface the dot on cam sprockets sould be facing shraight up. And again straight up with both intake and exhaust valves shut and cyl 1 at TDC
Hmm your gonna have to drill into it and use a extracting drill bit and extracting reversin bit to remove it. Your gonna have to get some drill bits that wil cut into a grade 8 bolt. Send me your Facebook name or your phone # and I'll send you a few pictures of how I had all my marks lined up
Hey bro so I'm barely doing my timing. I set the cam dots straight up. crank at 6oclock. I installed chains and then rocker arms after. but the engine still hard to turn?
Engine hard to turn? It's normally really hard to turn over the engine by hand, it's because the Pistons are sliding up the cylinders. Now with the chains installed it should be harder because now your moving the valvetrain. Or does it just randomly stop turning?
2004dsgmach1 well I have 2 problems lol 1 broke the crank bolt lol and after I timed it it was hard to turn but I turned it like 4 times. I went to try and turn again and j couldn't
josue vasquez. Dam lol ok did all the timing marks line up to the dots/marks on the chains? If the engine spins then randomly just stops turning then you might have the marks wrong and the valves are open and hitting the pistons causing the engine to stop dead in its tracks. Let me know. hopefully the bolt isn't to hard to get out
hopefully you can read this brotha. what exact parts did you get for this? the cheapest kit is for like 200 bucks for some tubing and the metal outlets hahaha
David Castro+ ya man for the kits it's a lot of money. I bought from ford the black tube that goes on the passenger side of motor and just put it on the driver side head and crossed over as you see in video. Somebody recently watched the video and told me that ford no longer sells this tube. So unfortunately you might have to buy a kit or look on eBay for another stock tube
+racequad9. The only reason there's pre drilled holes on both heads are because the heads are exactly the same. They use the same part number on both sides. The only difference is the direction of the cams, in other words you can install the left head on the right side as long as you installed the cams to face the front again
jmanawsomeness never had any issues with that setup. However I pulled the trans shortly after this and replaced it with the MMR unit. You can use any method you want and they will all work the same, it’s just a exit for the hot coolant any exit is an exit
Gotcha i was just making sure there wasnt some major flaw you ran into and thats y you switched to the mmr style setup because im about to pull my heads and want to do this mod after the guides r replaced and i found the part for 60$ brand new
jmanawsomeness sweet. I didn’t think they sold them anymore. Only “issue” I guess is the tube on the driver side head is very close to the head so you may have to bend it away from head to get the rubber hose on
This worked great until I removed the trans for some reason and when I did I went with MMR low profile cooling mod kit. They both worked as intended, but my method was a lot cheaper
You can turn the crankshaft with crank pulley bolt and you can turn the valvetrain separately by putting a wrench on the left or right cam sprockets and turning to get the dots to line up What is your phone # or Facebook. I can send you some pictures of my timing marks
Ya, I don't think it's as big of a deal with the pre 03 4v's. But if you search head tick you will see some guys with older 4v's that have the same issue
+Josue Vasquez. Ya I've seen this noise and issue on pre 03-04 like yours. The cooling mod Is good cheap insurance that you won't have a issue in the future. Is only time consuming because the trans needs to be removed. I'm currently doing the cooling mod to my 04 cobra
Joshua Nicolajsen. Honestly I would say eBay off a Mach 1 or cobra. The bolt patterns are the same but you'll need all need timing chains/guides ect. Well worth it but it's a project
Great idea! I'm going to use your cooling mod when I do my engine build. I can't understand the rush to remove the EGR. The EECV PCM uses the EGR to cool combustion temperatures by deluting the air/fuel mixture if temperatures get to high, to prevent damaging the Pistons. Back in the 70's before cars used computers and many of these pollution devices were 1st introduced they were slow and sluggish to respond, and performance was degraded. But today with modern technology and advanced computer controlled PCM's that has all changed. For example cars today, straight from the factory easily making 400, 500, 600 even 700 horsepower. All from a small block engine with catalytic converters.
Sweet. Ya I just did a egr delete and just ordered mmr cooling mod kit because I had a issue with mine. Still need it tuned but it's not going anywhere with the trans out :)
I just ordered the Gen2 HCM from Lethal. Gonna tap into the freeze plug up above by the egr tube without pulling anything but the egr, tube and fuel rail, sensor. Wish me luck! 😂😂
Gregory Craig all that about the functions of EGR are correct. But it's all about building HP. Now with that being said the EGR is not open at WOT so I'm not gonna ramble on about now 100% combustible air/gas can enter the chamber because I don't really need that at idle or part throttle "which is when it's open" But there's still that extra heat soak from the hot inert gasses going thru the aftercooler.
It most likely will not help overheat issue. It just provides a exit for coolant on drivers head. The tick for me was around 38,000mls ford replaced the head with a so called revised head, which still had the issue and cause Pistons to crack on cyl 7&8. If your having a overheat issue the head tick can happen that much faster
Dude the whole overheat issue was because there was no exit and coolant pounded, now it can circulate problem solved
Nice. I've been fighting my 7 and 8 misfires, from valves sticking. So this is probably part of my problem. It's fine when cold, but as soon as it warms up, I get the rough idle, and money light. I've tried everything besides removing the head, with zero luck. It's those exhaust valves, and you just can't get to them like you can the intake side. I guess that if, or when I do fix it, this is something I should do.
definite love your videos. very informative man. i'm buying a terminator soon and it's modded to hell and back but still want to know what to look for when i get it in my hands. that header video made my night. lol i definitely want more loud
Good to hear about getting a cobra. I'm glad you find my videos helpful, I appreciate it
If you see the track or race your car it's worth doing this mod for sure! Otherwise, if you daily it without beating the balls off it. It's not worth doing it... Especially if you go with a 160 thermostat you'll be fine.
I did same thing, but I drilled new hole so it was straight up, then I eliminated egr. And my evap as matter of fact, then just program both features out. with an engine like that I'm guessing you're getting a tune so why not just program them out.
How was Ford able to skirt around a recall campaign to correct for oversight pertaining to this failure to provide adequate coolant flow from the rear of the left cylinder head?
No sorry I don't have p# but I did just replace that with the MMR kit and its a great product but you can beat the price of the stock setup $66 for stock tube then modified
So i just bought a set of 2005 revised DC heads. I just realized i may have an issue. I bought these heads used and noticed that the back of the passenger side head does not have a hole for the coolant to flow out.....why the heck would the passenger head have the plug???
Racequad9. Send me a friend request on Facebook. Blake Pomykal. Send me a pic and I will hopefully clear it up.
2004dsgmach1 dang, i deleted my FB account a couple yrs ago... it's cool, I'm taking them to shop tomorrow to get them resurfaced and valve job. the shop specializes on mustangs so I'm sure he can answer my question. i just found it weird that it doesn't have an exit. thanks for reaching out though.
Ok no biggy. There is a freeze plug that you need to remove. It's a little circle thing that you can take out. Use the video as a reference to were the freeze plug is
How long did it take for the damage to occur to the engine I haven't developed any ticking noise yet but I have approximately 14,000 miles on my build but my car has gotten warm a few times I currently have the transmission pulled in the car and I want to add this modification to help my heating up issue
how to set the whole timing lol on the cam chain ?
Ok so the cam sprockets and crank sprockets have these little dots on them as "timing marks" the chain will also have the dots on it so basically line up the dots but there's a few steps you need to take before the dots line up. First spin the motor over until cyl #1 is at TDC with valves closed on cyl#1 the crankshaft mark should be facing straight down. Then turn the cam sprockets until the sprocket marks are pointing up and then install the chain to each side. Just make sure all the dots line up
Do you know if a supercharger for a 4.6l 32v like you have here will fit on the 5.4L version of the 32 valve? My dad and I swapped a 2001 navigator 5.4l 32v motor into my 2001 F-250.
Not sure. If a 4.6 manifold fits then the blower would fit I think. I’d just do a centrifugal blower
@@2004dsgmach1 thanks a lot, I want to get some power out of the engine with not a huge budget, is there anything other than a blower? Maybe bigger injectors and a tune?
William Ponds budget and build don’t go together my friend lol. All in for the Eaton swap on my Mach 1 was around $3400. Injectors, MAF, fuel pumps, tubes, the list goes one because your stock parts aren’t built for that demand, internals also, 4.6 are only good for around 475 then they pop. Not sure about 5.4 but they share a very similar rod (which is the weak point).
Do some research and figure out if a 4.6 procharger kit will bolt to a 5.4. If yes then be on the lookout for a used one (usually less than $3000). Then fuel, MAF, etc..
@@2004dsgmach1 thanks!
looks good man, lets get some more videos of the Mach! haha
Chris Zawacki. Thanks man. I've got a lot of vids on the Mach and I'm about to start posting videos on the comp O cobra I just bought
Nice! Did you sell the Mach for it? Ive got an Eaton Mach, along with a t56 and IRS so its nice seeing other Eaton Machs
Chris Zawacki. Yes I unfortunately did sell it but I sold it to a very good friend and will continue to post videos on it. I'm actually about to start a video series for "Mach engine build part 2" he fried a few pistons :(
:'( damn that sucks haha
Does this matter for the teksid motor out of a 97 4.6 dohc cobra?
Brett McBurney, the teksid has same issue and cooling mod is the same with this WAP, teksid, and Romeo
+2004dsgmach1 I've been thinking about this for a long time now. Thanks for the info!
Okay and what about for the smaller chain on the cams? do those have to be set up right to?
Yes. With the head on a flat surface the dot on cam sprockets sould be facing shraight up. And again straight up with both intake and exhaust valves shut and cyl 1 at TDC
You wouldn't happen to have the part # for that at the heater tube??
yeah all the cam dots pointing up right? And yeah u got any tips on taking that bolt out?
Hmm your gonna have to drill into it and use a extracting drill bit and extracting reversin bit to remove it. Your gonna have to get some drill bits that wil cut into a grade 8 bolt. Send me your Facebook name or your phone # and I'll send you a few pictures of how I had all my marks lined up
Hey bro so I'm barely doing my timing. I set the cam dots straight up. crank at 6oclock. I installed chains and then rocker arms after. but the engine still hard to turn?
Engine hard to turn? It's normally really hard to turn over the engine by hand, it's because the Pistons are sliding up the cylinders. Now with the chains installed it should be harder because now your moving the valvetrain. Or does it just randomly stop turning?
2004dsgmach1 well I have 2 problems lol 1 broke the crank bolt lol and after I timed it it was hard to turn but I turned it like 4 times. I went to try and turn again and j couldn't
josue vasquez. Dam lol ok did all the timing marks line up to the dots/marks on the chains? If the engine spins then randomly just stops turning then you might have the marks wrong and the valves are open and hitting the pistons causing the engine to stop dead in its tracks. Let me know. hopefully the bolt isn't to hard to get out
Hey bro you have a video on how to do timing or some tips u can help me with?
I don't have any videos on timing because I didn't do any adjustable gears or anything but what do you have questions about?
hopefully you can read this brotha. what exact parts did you get for this? the cheapest kit is for like 200 bucks for some tubing and the metal outlets hahaha
David Castro+ ya man for the kits it's a lot of money. I bought from ford the black tube that goes on the passenger side of motor and just put it on the driver side head and crossed over as you see in video. Somebody recently watched the video and told me that ford no longer sells this tube. So unfortunately you might have to buy a kit or look on eBay for another stock tube
Ahhhh damn that sucks bro
Did you have to drill a hole on the driver side in order to install the adapter?
racequad9. No holes were drilled. The holes are already threaded from the factory, they were just not used for anything
2004dsgmach1 really?! did ford intend on doing this mod but decided against it?
+racequad9. The only reason there's pre drilled holes on both heads are because the heads are exactly the same. They use the same part number on both sides. The only difference is the direction of the cams, in other words you can install the left head on the right side as long as you installed the cams to face the front again
2004dsgmach1 good info, i did not know that.
2004dsgmach1 wait, wouldn't you have the exhaust manifold on the wrong side though?
Longtivity wise have you had any issues with leaks or heating issues after installing your version of the mod?
jmanawsomeness never had any issues with that setup. However I pulled the trans shortly after this and replaced it with the MMR unit. You can use any method you want and they will all work the same, it’s just a exit for the hot coolant any exit is an exit
Gotcha i was just making sure there wasnt some major flaw you ran into and thats y you switched to the mmr style setup because im about to pull my heads and want to do this mod after the guides r replaced and i found the part for 60$ brand new
jmanawsomeness sweet. I didn’t think they sold them anymore. Only “issue” I guess is the tube on the driver side head is very close to the head so you may have to bend it away from head to get the rubber hose on
They dont make them anymore but i found a ford dealer who still has 9 of them and i ordered one just now
And cool thank you for the info
How well did your version of this work out for you?
This worked great until I removed the trans for some reason and when I did I went with MMR low profile cooling mod kit. They both worked as intended, but my method was a lot cheaper
2004dsgmach1 thanks for the reply I'll give it a shot brother!
Nice work
Thank you
where did u buy the tube at?
Bought it at the ford dealership. $65
what if I already have the heads on? how do I do it?
You can turn the crankshaft with crank pulley bolt and you can turn the valvetrain separately by putting a wrench on the left or right cam sprockets and turning to get the dots to line up
What is your phone # or Facebook. I can send you some pictures of my timing marks
@@2004dsgmach1 what is that part called if I buy it like you said?
JAP JAP it’s been discontinued. Best bet is MMR kit for $200
@@2004dsgmach1 I want to add an eaton on my Marauder ....any help/guidance?
will that be good to do on a 99 cobra?
Ya, I don't think it's as big of a deal with the pre 03 4v's. But if you search head tick you will see some guys with older 4v's that have the same issue
I got a 99
+Josue Vasquez. Ya I've seen this noise and issue on pre 03-04 like yours. The cooling mod Is good cheap insurance that you won't have a issue in the future. Is only time consuming because the trans needs to be removed. I'm currently doing the cooling mod to my 04 cobra
Oh okay u gonna put video?
+Josue Vasquez. Yes I have several videos in the working.
Okay I'll try that
I put the engine to TDC and then put the heads on
See other comment below
Anyone got the part number?
Unfortunately I’ve heard this part # is discontinued. I had to buy the mmr kit for my cobra last year
Where can I get cylinder headeds to convert from 2 valve too 4 valve dohc
Joshua Nicolajsen. Honestly I would say eBay off a Mach 1 or cobra. The bolt patterns are the same but you'll need all need timing chains/guides ect. Well worth it but it's a project
Thanks for the help 2004dsgmach1, i will definitely do it once i have the money .Im putting the engine in my 1969 ford f100.
Delete your egr. They Kill hp and destroy air fuel mixture/octance
egr delete time
MMR sell this kit
Yes I installed the MMR kit on the Mach about a year later. And recently on my cobra
Can I have a link to the kit?