Reaper Bones got me back into painting. They're cheap enough that I don't feel bad messing up a fig and setting it aside (and boy do I mess up a lot). Buying a bunch of Bones has given me plenty of variety to try out different techniques. However, I do find them harder to get a good result on. I'm not sure why but metal figures just seem to be easier to get consistent results. As always, thanks for the vid!
I just ordered a few Reaper Bones minis. You're right about the swords getting bent pretty easily, but fixing it is pretty easy, too. I got some water near boiling, held the mini in for a minute or two, straightened out the sword, and put it in some cold water to fix. Worked perfectly.
Yeah, for most minis it works fine. The exception so far is my Storm Giant: his sword is so large that a couple of days after i straightened it, gravity took hold and it started drooping again...
Doc Eon Hence why I suggested people stay away from minis with thin blade parts. They can be straightened with hot water, but it's tough to say how long they will stay that way.
ThePaintingClinic The giant's sword isn't that thin though, I honestly thought it would hold up. But clearly I misjudged exactly how soft this stuff is. Chalk it up to trial and error...
I only recently begun painting miniatures (despite over 20+ years at a gaming table). I appreciate your instructional videos and was glad to see you address the "magnifier/light" concerns in your videos. That was my first obstacle. I wear glasses but I'm not bad off. I used to do electrical component replacement on CCAs....so I have some skill with micro/miniature work. I look forward to seeing more of what you channel offers and enjoying your work.
I just came across your channel as I'm considering painting miniatures as a hobby. I have to say, if your painting technique didn't make me subscribe your intro music did. Excellent choice!
I had the same experience as you did. Spray paint does NOT work as primer on Bones. Also, acrylic paint brushed on as a primer is also difficult, especially if you thin it at all with water. What I found works really well, is taking acrylic medium (matte or gloss - doesn't matter) and thinning it with an acrylic fluid, like Pledge with FutureShine, almost to a glaze, but not quite. Thin enough that it flows into the recesses. I coat (sometimes starting with a dip) the mini once with that, it adheres very well, and let it dry. Then, I prime with whatever acrylic paint I want, and it bonds very well to the material, even resisting the fingernail test (scratching with just the primer on the Bones would come off). This has greatly sped up my priming process for the Bones minis.
Well. Aren't we posh. BTW - loving the recent series on painting bones. The barrow rats (just painted some myself) were great, and the mimic was spectacular. Loved your colour choices.
Right on bro! I wash virtually all my minis with a bit of Isopropyl Alcohol and scrub with an old tooth brush. This helps remove any mold release as well as dirt or dust, then a coat of Vallejo primer. This process not only works for the Reaper Bones and other plastic models but pewter as well.
I don't know about in later editions, but I can confirm from the AD&D Monstrous Manual that ogres normally have a yellowish skin tone with some rare individuals having a slight purplish skin tone. It sucks that they don't give any sort of descriptions in the new book. Also, having worked with Bones miniatures, I can confirm that fixing bent parts or repositioning parts is *very* easy because of the material. Its nice because it makes minor conversions so much easier if all you want it slight change in the positioning of a figure or weapon.
Have to say that bones can be sanded perfectly fine. You just need a good file and a very light touch. As in let the tooth do all the work and put no weight on the file at all. I have tried both toothed and diamond sanding files. I like the diamond more for bones. I would also like to mention that you ordered a couple of the worst detailed models of the lot (they were the pre kickstarter line and for some reason all of those models lack detail compared to the kickstarter line)
I actually have better results using Vallejo brush on acrylic primer, as it happens, with Bones minis. I wash them thoroughly with dish soap first, dry them well, then a couple layers of the Vallejo primer--works for me.
I took a masterclass, and one of the techniques taught was to shade, rather than highlight; start at a high midtone, and then paint into the crevices. Any chance of doing that on one of your excellent videos?
I notice you primed the mini. How do you find the bones minis to paint on directly? I've been finding that despite the "no primer needed" promise, the paint literally slides off.
+Lussuria The no primer thing is kinda a myth. On their own site they say to apply a thin coat of paint or primer first. So even they admit you need to "prime" the material first with something. It's just a marketing gimmick.
hey just wanted to say I don't mind it at all if you re-tell us steps. granted you might get sick of repeating yourself, but just wanted to encourage you to not post something cause you feel its done before. your tips (along with others) have really helped improve my mini painting skills.
Hey Doc, did you Bones ever get tacky and glossy? I’ve been fighting this issue for years with these minis! And no, Im not using rattle cans to paint. Goof job as always.
Doctor Faust's Painting Clinic i usually wash all my minis and plastics with dish soap. The tackiness is random. Happens when i use GW shades on the models, sometimes not. Some metal colored paints do it too. Im so scared to paint them anymore as I don’t want to invest time and energy just to have to strip the model. Thanks for your advise.
Ah. If it was a Labyrinth reference you would have got it right away. I was referring to your "It's alright? It's alright," comment. Honestly you aren't missing a thing having not seen it. And trust me, David Bowie's special area is even more scary as an adult than a child.
Reaper Bones got me back into painting. They're cheap enough that I don't feel bad messing up a fig and setting it aside (and boy do I mess up a lot). Buying a bunch of Bones has given me plenty of variety to try out different techniques. However, I do find them harder to get a good result on. I'm not sure why but metal figures just seem to be easier to get consistent results.
As always, thanks for the vid!
Carl Lundstedt - I feel exactly the same. Do you know anywhere that sells cheaper metal models?
Exactly, and they're great practice.
I just ordered a few Reaper Bones minis. You're right about the swords getting bent pretty easily, but fixing it is pretty easy, too. I got some water near boiling, held the mini in for a minute or two, straightened out the sword, and put it in some cold water to fix. Worked perfectly.
Yeah, for most minis it works fine. The exception so far is my Storm Giant: his sword is so large that a couple of days after i straightened it, gravity took hold and it started drooping again...
Doc Eon
Hence why I suggested people stay away from minis with thin blade parts. They can be straightened with hot water, but it's tough to say how long they will stay that way.
ThePaintingClinic
The giant's sword isn't that thin though, I honestly thought it would hold up. But clearly I misjudged exactly how soft this stuff is. Chalk it up to trial and error...
I only recently begun painting miniatures (despite over 20+ years at a gaming table). I appreciate your instructional videos and was glad to see you address the "magnifier/light" concerns in your videos. That was my first obstacle. I wear glasses but I'm not bad off. I used to do electrical component replacement on CCAs....so I have some skill with micro/miniature work. I look forward to seeing more of what you channel offers and enjoying your work.
What?! I love the artwork for the new MM! Each to there own. Love your vids!
I just came across your channel as I'm considering painting miniatures as a hobby. I have to say, if your painting technique didn't make me subscribe your intro music did. Excellent choice!
This is an older video, but still very helpful on the process of painting muscly skin. Thanks!
I have been trying to copy your technique for a while now and I think I'm just starting to get it, I will keep practicing, thank you for the videos
I had the same experience as you did. Spray paint does NOT work as primer on Bones.
Also, acrylic paint brushed on as a primer is also difficult, especially if you thin it at all with water.
What I found works really well, is taking acrylic medium (matte or gloss - doesn't matter) and thinning it with an acrylic fluid, like Pledge with FutureShine, almost to a glaze, but not quite. Thin enough that it flows into the recesses. I coat (sometimes starting with a dip) the mini once with that, it adheres very well, and let it dry. Then, I prime with whatever acrylic paint I want, and it bonds very well to the material, even resisting the fingernail test (scratching with just the primer on the Bones would come off).
This has greatly sped up my priming process for the Bones minis.
+Kirk Brownridge Lately I've been washing them with rubbing alcohol before primer and I haven't had any sticky issues.
Alcohol before spray primer? Or brushed primer?
Airbrushed primer.
Well. Aren't we posh.
BTW - loving the recent series on painting bones. The barrow rats (just painted some myself) were great, and the mimic was spectacular. Loved your colour choices.
I personally found the artwork in the 5e literature to be great. It is just a matter of opinion I suppose.
Great painting video as always!
The halflings give me nightmares.
ThePaintingClinic I agree, the halflings are horrid.
I agree
Doctor Faust's Painting Clinic why is the halflings head almost the same size as it's body in the players handbook?
bones are hydrophobic. Vallejo surface primer works fantastic but you need to wash and dry the Bones figure completely.
Right on bro! I wash virtually all my minis with a bit of Isopropyl Alcohol and scrub with an old tooth brush. This helps remove any mold release as well as dirt or dust, then a coat of Vallejo primer. This process not only works for the Reaper Bones and other plastic models but pewter as well.
Christian Oliver I never thought about washing it with alcohol. I'll try that next time.
I love the video but the artwork in the monster manual is great!
I don't know about in later editions, but I can confirm from the AD&D Monstrous Manual that ogres normally have a yellowish skin tone with some rare individuals having a slight purplish skin tone. It sucks that they don't give any sort of descriptions in the new book.
Also, having worked with Bones miniatures, I can confirm that fixing bent parts or repositioning parts is *very* easy because of the material. Its nice because it makes minor conversions so much easier if all you want it slight change in the positioning of a figure or weapon.
.what kind/type of colors for bone matter could one use better? thanks
Have to say that bones can be sanded perfectly fine. You just need a good file and a very light touch. As in let the tooth do all the work and put no weight on the file at all.
I have tried both toothed and diamond sanding files. I like the diamond more for bones.
I would also like to mention that you ordered a couple of the worst detailed models of the lot (they were the pre kickstarter line and for some reason all of those models lack detail compared to the kickstarter line)
lostsanityreturned When I sand bones I find that even just using 220 grit sandpaper works just fine and I only need the file for hard to reach places.
Kyle Evans
I am gathering that is a US grit rating?
*laughs* in Australia 220grit is super coarse and would create deep scores in the miniature.
Yeah it's a US grit rating, that or the Canadian rating system is very similar.
I actually have better results using Vallejo brush on acrylic primer, as it happens, with Bones minis. I wash them thoroughly with dish soap first, dry them well, then a couple layers of the Vallejo primer--works for me.
Very Cool, I have to look for these to try, thanks for sharing
I took a masterclass, and one of the techniques taught was to shade, rather than highlight; start at a high midtone, and then paint into the crevices. Any chance of doing that on one of your excellent videos?
I only do that on larger figures.
I would be very concerned about the chemicals leaching out of that plastic. I have heard some bad things about soft plastics.
How do you remove the bases from the bones material? Or metal for that matter
Clippers. Or just glue on top of another base.
I notice you primed the mini. How do you find the bones minis to paint on directly? I've been finding that despite the "no primer needed" promise, the paint literally slides off.
+Lussuria The no primer thing is kinda a myth. On their own site they say to apply a thin coat of paint or primer first. So even they admit you need to "prime" the material first with something. It's just a marketing gimmick.
hey just wanted to say I don't mind it at all if you re-tell us steps. granted you might get sick of repeating yourself, but just wanted to encourage you to not post something cause you feel its done before. your tips (along with others) have really helped improve my mini painting skills.
oops I mean don't hold back because you think nothing new is in the vid. lol im sure ya got the point.
Hello, what did you use to prime with? Thank you!
Hunter Alakai It varies. Vallejo for this one I think.
Hey Doc, did you Bones ever get tacky and glossy? I’ve been fighting this issue for years with these minis! And no, Im not using rattle cans to paint.
Goof job as always.
Clean them with isopropyl alcohol before priming to remove some of the oils from the plastic.
Doctor Faust's Painting Clinic i usually wash all my minis and plastics with dish soap. The tackiness is random. Happens when i use GW shades on the models, sometimes not. Some metal colored paints do it too. Im so scared to paint them anymore as I don’t want to invest time and energy just to have to strip the model. Thanks for your advise.
Labyrinth reference, Doc?
Likely not since I don't know what you are talking about. Also I never saw Labyrinth. David Bowie's crotch scared me as a small child.
Ah. If it was a Labyrinth reference you would have got it right away. I was referring to your "It's alright? It's alright," comment. Honestly you aren't missing a thing having not seen it. And trust me, David Bowie's special area is even more scary as an adult than a child.
I enjoyed watching while I let agrax Earthshade dry on some bones warriors.
Its durable though
Hi ThePaintingClinic,
I just started a new project sharing your love of fantasy and monsters. If you get a moment, please have a look.
The orcs are among the worst for me in terms of art work.