My favorite brush on primer for Reaper Bones is Applebarrel Asphalt paint, undiluted acrylic paint sticks to Bones very well. I have some unvarnished Bones minis that have been used by the dice gorillas at our gaming table weekly for years that still look just as bad as they did the day I painted them. They were some of the first minis that I painted so the quality of the paint jobs were subpar but the paint stuck well. Both the Applebarrel and the Vallejo Model Color.
A few comments: * If you have an airbrush, airbrushing with Badger Stynylrez primer works great for Bones. Otherwise, I'd recommend any of the Reaper Liners, _unthinned_, for priming Bones with a brush. Spray primers can interact badly with (I think) the plasticizer in the models and you can get tackiness even months after painting. (If you're happy with your spray primer, far be it from me to stop you, but I thought it worth mentioning.) * I use fender washers for mass, uniformity, and price as well. That hole in the middle fits the right neodymium magnets really well. If you do that, you can use anything ferromagnetic as a painting stick and you can also transport the minis on anything steel without worrying about them bumping into each other. Steel cookie boxes, steel baking sheets, or tool boxes work really well for carrying magnetically based minis. * Because they're so smooth, I like to scuff the surfaces of fender washers to give paint and adhesives something to stick to. I use a bench grinder because it's fast. * I like to use epoxy putty (MagicSculp or Apoxie Sculpt) to do terrain on the washer. With these products, something like the Happy Seppuku stamps works great to give an interesting base texture. When doing this, I normally cut the integral base away from the mini and press the feet of the figure into the putty before it sets and then remove it. After the putty sets, I can paint the base quickly (since the mini isn't in the way) then glue the mini into the depressions left by its feet. * For mold lines, I'd recommend removing any that are problematic before washing. Hand oils can reduce paint adhesion. I like to use scalpels, hobby knives, or sanding sticks for this purpose. * For bent figures, I dunk them in hot water, then let them cool slowly. This usually removes the worst of the bends all by itself, but if you need to, you can straighten them while they're still warm. (NB: hot water is hot.) I'd recommend not shock cooling the figures, as you might increase the internal stresses and increase the chances that a figure will return to its original position. Allow them to cool slowly to temper the plastic and allow the internal stresses to relax. FWIW, hot water with a bit of detergent can do double duty for both cleaning and straightening figures at the same time.
really liked the dry brushing technique as well as filing down of the manufacturing imperfections. stepped my noob miniature painting game up a smidge.
On the back of every bones miniature, there's a warning not to use spray primers. The plastic is a little softer and more porous than that used in other miniatures and models, and the stickyness is actually the plastic starting to melt. This video demonstrates that priming Bones won't necessarily destroy them, and it works for you, so whatever. They're cheap, so we should be encouraged to go nuts and do our own thing. I use Reaper pure black to prime, but that's getting expensive. I've heard of people priming with thinned down craft acrylic though.
I have recently bought some Reaper Bones on eBay which someone didn't want from their Kickstarter. The white ones are fine but the translucent ones are sticky. There has been nothing applied to them to cause this. I have tried brushing them in warm soapy water but after drying they are still sticky. What do you suggest please?
Oo this is so cool my friends and I did this together making our miniatures for our d&d club. This was awesome an we use real dirt from outside definitely going to do this again
i use "driveway gravel, kitty litter, cork, etc - dont; reccomend "real dirt". Love enthusiasm - get painting and gaming and check out small but cool skrimish type games to get friends going in tabletop games.
I 'prime' my Bones by painting them with Reaper MSP Brown liner. Spray paint and primer does not do well with the 80% humidity where I live! They end up lighter brown on the highlights, really dark brown in the cracks, which saves me the dry brushing step, and any paint will then stick to the brown liner.
Spray primer is bad for Reaper minis. Sometimes it doesn't dry. *Ever*. Supposedly some are more compatible than others but IMO it's just not worth the risk.
Really enjoyed your Bones prep video. I tend to dump a bunch of my Bones into a container of detergent water and let them set over night. Quick scrub and I dump them out on towels to dry. I know the cat litter was an available resource, but I would be concerned about the fragility of it. It doesn't lose that ability to be crushed so easy just because its on the mini base. I have a growing collection of "grits" including several jars of craft sand (from extremely fine, to coarse), roadway sand (used for traction in winter), tiny crushed stone, crushed shells, and used coffee grounds (dried). Each one adds a unique texture to the base and I often use several together to create more naturalistic effects.
Thanks for the comment! That's great. I should definitely be on the lookout for places I can get some sand and grit. :) The cat litter is brittle, but I cover it in several layers of paint, glue, and laquer by the time it's done and there's never a time I can think of when there would be any kind of pressure on it. Still, I should look into some actual sand/rocks because it would likely be easier to work with.
Mate, that was really good. I'm new to this. I've never thought to wash the modle 1st. I also really like the dry brush 1st 😊 When I prime and also when I paint I mount the mini on a used coke bottle with some sand in the bottom (to stop it tipping over) and use that (similar to you using the jar). This is because I'm usually doing this with my 3 kids (two 7 year old and a 3 year old) it makes it easier for them to hold the coke bottle too.
Another great video. I almost always apply my primers to single miniatures by hand these days as I just don't want to chance it. Your tip for drybrushing to pick out the details making it easier to paint is a real Gem - might have to steal that one lol.
Cool. Thanks for watching! I really do need to get a pot of primer. The only reason I sprayed is because that's all I had. :P What kind of primer do you use?
I tend to use Vallejo Primers in a variety of shades although I do get through Black the most. I prefer them as they also go through an airbrush just as easy for the bigger jobs but as I say I much prefer to hand brush my single miniatures. :)
For adding "sand" to the base you can also put the material in a short (about 1" high), wide food storage container. Once the base has been covered in white glue you can place the model in the container with the "sand" just covering the base and gently move it around until covered. Remove the model and tap it gently to remove any excess. You can then put the lid back on the container and use it to store the material. Either before or after the base is dried you can thin some white glue like you mentioned but instead of brushing it on (which can result in removing some of the "sand") use a cheap, disposable eye-dropper (I got mine from the baby aisle at the local grocery store) and carefully apply the thinned glue over the base. After it dries you really have to work at it to remove any of the material. You can also add paint to the watered=down glue to add color to the base material.
to mount mine I like to use a large pill bottle that has the reversible lid. That way I can turn it over inside the bottle to dry and not get any dust in the paint.
beginner painter, ive always been curious about miniatures claimed pre-primed. I purchased a couple "D&D Nolzur's Marvelous Unpainted Miniatures" that state theyre primed with Acrylicos Vallejo primer.
Mr Beerski The way that Bones are made allows them to be painted without being primed, but you can prime them if you feel the need to if you think the paint won’t stick
Verified. Be careful! Curious how this one turned out. Even the vid creator mentioned "sticky". That was likely a result of the paint itself and not humidity or doing anything wrong. And be advised: it *NEVER* gets any better. All you can do is paint over it or go through the hell of trying to remove the primer. (Acetone works somewhat IIRC.)
i had the same issue. i had some generic Citrus cleaner (Bio-Orange or something similar), soaked it for about ten minutes, brushed it off a bit with an old brush. took all of the primer off with no noticeable effect on the miniature.
It’s an older code but it checks out. Thanks for the video! I’m just getting ready to start down the path of painting all the Reaper Bones I’ve been collecting through several Kickstarters.
WASD20 (awesome moniker, mines universal to nearly all i do and as ancient as the setting for the novel from which it comes) anyhoo - great work and didn't mean to steal your spotlight or whatnot by mentioning other channels below. Actually only mentioned one but at length. I'm sure you know him. I'm just recently returning to the hobby but always watched BTP videos and lately TabletopMinions. But, as you can see, I watch tons and subscribe to ALL I watch. Hell, half the time I Tweet them too.
This is a fantastic tutorial! I'm wanting to start painting miniatures, and this will definitely help me out. Side note: I was looking at your miniatures and painting playlist, and this video wasn't on there. Maybe it's just because I'm on mobile, but just letting you know in case! Again, great video
I live on a farm and we have a wood oven so if a miniature needs to be dry I sit it reasonably near oven and glazing, washing, painting layers dry nice and quick
Nice model. I recently painted that one. I've had a bit of trouble with primers remaining sticky on the bones plastic though. Unfortunately, where I live it is almost always hot and humid.
+brewgeek1 I feel your pain. Summer is tough here and winter is too cold. I'd recommend getting a small pot of mini primer. They are 5 or 6 bucks I think.
I know I'm late, but how do you afford your method of priming? You must've used two thirds of that can on the board! Is there any way to get around wasting so much?
I have since purchased some model primer I can brush on, but the spray primer goes a long way actually. I doubt I even used one tenth. In addition, I usually prime 5-10 miniatures at the same time.
Krylon's got a 'Camo' line of matte primers that should perform a lot better than the ones you used. i highly recommend using those; great coverage and excellent price.
I am having a custom mini done for my character by a 3D sculpter that also prints them out and sends them, but I will need to paint it. I have NEVER been good at painting even basic items, let alone small detail painting. If I buy the first learn to paint bones kit, plus the layer up kit, are the instructions and experience learning to paint the minis they come with enough to learn to paint a halfway decent mini?
Would make a really simple way to paint a bunch of minis. A goblin or skeleton army, for example. Actually my video happens to be paused on a scene showing a close-up of that and I just really can't get over how good it looks! *PLUS* you can always add more detail later!
Sorry new to minis, does regular acrylic paint work? If it doesn’t and it rubs off in time is there any thing like a topcoat or something that can keep the paint on?
Acrylic paint does work. The problem with standard art paints is they are usually thicker, and it’s a bit of work to get them thin and consistent for painting miniatures. Actual miniature paint makes the job much easier. And I recommend primer. A clear topcoat is recommended. Spray varnish or brush on, most most miniature painters prefer matte finish.
Hmmm....sure wished I had watched this before my most recent pursuits. I've got 52 base miniatures that are black but a little to heavy on the base. I didn't use a "primer"....just a flat black. Guess minis aren't prepped like my landscapes tiles have been. Good video and technique....I look forward to checking out other videos. Do you have any recommendations on how to "remove excess paint" form minis ? I'd like to drop mine into a solution and begin all over. LOL !
Haha. Sorry to hear of the struggle! A flat black can totally work on Bones, though. However, if it's too heavy and you've mucked them up too much a soak in simple green solution for 24 hours will do the trick. Doesn't affect the plastic of the mini itself at all. Just soak and then use a toothbrush to remove any excess. Then re-wash with water and a bit of soap as I did. Here's a recent post: www.reddit.com/r/minipainting/comments/2xo1vs/stripping_paint_off_reaper_bones/?scrlybrkr=0534e564 Good luck!
Thanks for this. I bought a few Bones minis that I painted and the paint didn't take that well to the plastic. The kitty litter is a great Idea I may try myself.
+WASD20 no problem. Gesso literally shrinks against the model, making the details pop, you can get it in clear, white, and black at most craft stores, and it takes like five minutes to apply
If you are using reaper paint, you don't NEED to. Many still do. Because I use a wide variety of paint, I prime. It helps the paint stick WAY better. I've never had much luck with the 'no prime' method.
Bones or other plastic minis are a mixed bag imo. They offer the greatest advantage over metal minis when you want a larger figure like a stone giant or even a medium one like your bugbear. The cost savings is much greater ($19 v $5 for a Reaper stone giant I recently bought) and the detail on the figure is about the same as a metal one. Assembly (if any) is easier with the bones material than with a metal figure. However, bones sucks for a human-size figure. The cost savings is trivial ($2 v $6 for a Reaper "Ezren" mage) and it does not have nearly the detail of a metal figure. If you want a figure for your own character or for a key NPC, spend the extra $4 for the metal version. However, I do buy the bones version when I need a mob of goblins, rats, etc. where figure detail isn't important and I'm going to do a quickie paint job anyway.
a tip for your paints is to add a 8mm stainless silver or steel ball barring to your paint pots, and shake your paints before use to get the most out of your paints the pigments tend to separate when they are stored so it is a good idea to shake them before use, similar to primers
i know some have had problems with rust(even though they shouldnt), but to avoid this ceramic beads will never have the chance to deteriorate. 3$ necklace of ceramic beads at a hobby shop will yied you at least 50 beads. thats what i do, anyways. ceramic all the way
If you have that kit, then I'd do what they say. It comes with Reaper paint, and that is specially formulated to work on Bones material without primer.
Thanks for these mini videos, I've been thinking of getting into painting recently. Do you think this method would work with the metal / pewter figures?
If you haven't seen How to Play D&D part 3 and 4, I'd recommend them. They're all about magic. It really varies based on class, but these videos explain some of the basics: ua-cam.com/video/hTl_4unUc64/v-deo.html
One option would be to strip it completely with Pine Sol. Just soak it in there - here are some instructions: www.how-to-paint-miniatures.com/miniature-painting-removing-paint.html Alternatively you could try another light coat of primer under better conditions. Just not sure how that would work.
I wish you would make a video on how you make a video from filming, editing, making icons and social marketing. Would be a great video series just saying. Out of all the videos I watched on the topic this is the best, bravo man and I'm not just saying it.
I love this channel too but suggest you at least check out Atom Smasher over at "TabletopMinions" - to many he's their "Bob Ross of minis" AND he's going to be getting more and more into how to "run " a youtube channel etc. He's a pro photographer , went to Art School, is in early 40's and been in "the hobby" entire adult life pretty much and has a lot to offer. I'm here checking out this great vid on the Reapers since I'm doing three of them I got with a reapers paint kit that was such a good deal and came with a nice travel box from Amazon - even 2 brushes, and a really well done instuctional /techniques book with their whole line of paint colors on the back of the book in triads, with the HD (just thicker) paint colors at bottom. Triad (pretty self-explanatory) "system" is pretty nice. I painted some 40k models and others as a kid and have just recently gotten back into the hobby. Hope this wasn't a TLDR - just trying to help as others in "the community" are always so helpful. (even on youtube=makery) ; ]
Now wait a sec. I hear that it has to be Krylon Paint + primer to prime Bones? I know for a fact that Armory primer just doesn't dry on them at all. I HAVE that kind of Krylon primer and never used it because I kept on reading that it wouldn't dry properly.
It certainly does not have to be Krylon. In my experience any old primer will do. The main thing is, to make sure it can be applied quite thin. The only time I've had experience with it not drying completely is when the weather is quite hot. You'll always find some who prefer to use more expensive primers that are specific to miniatures, like Citadel. But mine dries just fine! I say give it a shot. The nice thing is, you can always start over too. Simple Green cleaning solution can strip the paint off pretty easily without damaging the mini. I've even heard of some people not priming Bones miniatures at all and being just fine.
I know for a fact that not every spray primer works. I tried to use Armory Primer (Specifically made for miniatures) and it just wouldn't dry even under ideal conditions. I keep on hearing good things about Krylon Camo Plastic Fusion. On the Reaper Forums most people like using straight Reaper HD or Reaper Brown Liner to "prime" the minis.
You're not supposed to spray prime Bones. The chemical bonding process won't allow it to cure. Even the package tells you not to spray prime. (Krylon is great for GW stuff though) Just paint a very light coat of acrylic onto Bones, even cheap craft shit will do if you're mindful not to glob it on. Also, who the fuck taught this guy how to use a spray can? That was almost funny to watch.
I’ve always had great luck with Krylon color max priming. Some spray primers don’t work quite as well. I’ve had a hard time getting paint to stick if I just go straight to acrylic paint.
My favorite brush on primer for Reaper Bones is Applebarrel Asphalt paint, undiluted acrylic paint sticks to Bones very well. I have some unvarnished Bones minis that have been used by the dice gorillas at our gaming table weekly for years that still look just as bad as they did the day I painted them. They were some of the first minis that I painted so the quality of the paint jobs were subpar but the paint stuck well. Both the Applebarrel and the Vallejo Model Color.
A few comments:
* If you have an airbrush, airbrushing with Badger Stynylrez primer works great for Bones. Otherwise, I'd recommend any of the Reaper Liners, _unthinned_, for priming Bones with a brush. Spray primers can interact badly with (I think) the plasticizer in the models and you can get tackiness even months after painting. (If you're happy with your spray primer, far be it from me to stop you, but I thought it worth mentioning.)
* I use fender washers for mass, uniformity, and price as well. That hole in the middle fits the right neodymium magnets really well. If you do that, you can use anything ferromagnetic as a painting stick and you can also transport the minis on anything steel without worrying about them bumping into each other. Steel cookie boxes, steel baking sheets, or tool boxes work really well for carrying magnetically based minis.
* Because they're so smooth, I like to scuff the surfaces of fender washers to give paint and adhesives something to stick to. I use a bench grinder because it's fast.
* I like to use epoxy putty (MagicSculp or Apoxie Sculpt) to do terrain on the washer. With these products, something like the Happy Seppuku stamps works great to give an interesting base texture. When doing this, I normally cut the integral base away from the mini and press the feet of the figure into the putty before it sets and then remove it. After the putty sets, I can paint the base quickly (since the mini isn't in the way) then glue the mini into the depressions left by its feet.
* For mold lines, I'd recommend removing any that are problematic before washing. Hand oils can reduce paint adhesion. I like to use scalpels, hobby knives, or sanding sticks for this purpose.
* For bent figures, I dunk them in hot water, then let them cool slowly. This usually removes the worst of the bends all by itself, but if you need to, you can straighten them while they're still warm. (NB: hot water is hot.) I'd recommend not shock cooling the figures, as you might increase the internal stresses and increase the chances that a figure will return to its original position. Allow them to cool slowly to temper the plastic and allow the internal stresses to relax. FWIW, hot water with a bit of detergent can do double duty for both cleaning and straightening figures at the same time.
really liked the dry brushing technique as well as filing down of the manufacturing imperfections. stepped my noob miniature painting game up a smidge.
Awesome. :) Thanks for the comment, Jordan. Happy painting.
On the back of every bones miniature, there's a warning not to use spray primers. The plastic is a little softer and more porous than that used in other miniatures and models, and the stickyness is actually the plastic starting to melt. This video demonstrates that priming Bones won't necessarily destroy them, and it works for you, so whatever. They're cheap, so we should be encouraged to go nuts and do our own thing.
I use Reaper pure black to prime, but that's getting expensive. I've heard of people priming with thinned down craft acrylic though.
I have recently bought some Reaper Bones on eBay which someone didn't want from their Kickstarter. The white ones are fine but the translucent ones are sticky. There has been nothing applied to them to cause this. I have tried brushing them in warm soapy water but after drying they are still sticky. What do you suggest please?
Thank you for this, I want to get into a new hobby during the summer and painting minis sounds fun
Oo this is so cool my friends and I did this together making our miniatures for our d&d club. This was awesome an we use real dirt from outside definitely going to do this again
i use "driveway gravel, kitty litter, cork, etc - dont; reccomend "real dirt". Love enthusiasm - get painting and gaming and check out small but cool skrimish type games to get friends going in tabletop games.
I 'prime' my Bones by painting them with Reaper MSP Brown liner. Spray paint and primer does not do well with the 80% humidity where I live! They end up lighter brown on the highlights, really dark brown in the cracks, which saves me the dry brushing step, and any paint will then stick to the brown liner.
Spray primer is bad for Reaper minis. Sometimes it doesn't dry. *Ever*. Supposedly some are more compatible than others but IMO it's just not worth the risk.
That's cool to know. I live in a desert, so humidity is typically much less than 80%. Here paint dries quickly.
Really enjoyed your Bones prep video. I tend to dump a bunch of my Bones into a container of detergent water and let them set over night. Quick scrub and I dump them out on towels to dry. I know the cat litter was an available resource, but I would be concerned about the fragility of it. It doesn't lose that ability to be crushed so easy just because its on the mini base. I have a growing collection of "grits" including several jars of craft sand (from extremely fine, to coarse), roadway sand (used for traction in winter), tiny crushed stone, crushed shells, and used coffee grounds (dried). Each one adds a unique texture to the base and I often use several together to create more naturalistic effects.
Thanks for the comment! That's great. I should definitely be on the lookout for places I can get some sand and grit. :) The cat litter is brittle, but I cover it in several layers of paint, glue, and laquer by the time it's done and there's never a time I can think of when there would be any kind of pressure on it. Still, I should look into some actual sand/rocks because it would likely be easier to work with.
I find a good dry brushing works well for priming the reaper bones minis since they don't need to be primed.
Awesome job buddy! I never thought about pre-dry brusing before. I think thats really going to help in the future.
Cool! Yeah, it's so big for me. Really helps. :) Cheers.
Mate, that was really good. I'm new to this. I've never thought to wash the modle 1st.
I also really like the dry brush 1st 😊
When I prime and also when I paint I mount the mini on a used coke bottle with some sand in the bottom (to stop it tipping over) and use that (similar to you using the jar). This is because I'm usually doing this with my 3 kids (two 7 year old and a 3 year old) it makes it easier for them to hold the coke bottle too.
For those looking for a good mount, I use old prescription medicine bottles. The tops of the bottles can also be used for bases if you’re in a bind.
Very helpful! Thanks. Can't wait for the painting portion. And thanks for the tip on the Bones Kickstarter. Super deal!
Another great video. I almost always apply my primers to single miniatures by hand these days as I just don't want to chance it. Your tip for drybrushing to pick out the details making it easier to paint is a real Gem - might have to steal that one lol.
Cool. Thanks for watching! I really do need to get a pot of primer. The only reason I sprayed is because that's all I had. :P What kind of primer do you use?
I tend to use Vallejo Primers in a variety of shades although I do get through Black the most. I prefer them as they also go through an airbrush just as easy for the bigger jobs but as I say I much prefer to hand brush my single miniatures. :)
For adding "sand" to the base you can also put the material in a short (about 1" high), wide food storage container. Once the base has been covered in white glue you can place the model in the container with the "sand" just covering the base and gently move it around until covered. Remove the model and tap it gently to remove any excess. You can then put the lid back on the container and use it to store the material.
Either before or after the base is dried you can thin some white glue like you mentioned but instead of brushing it on (which can result in removing some of the "sand") use a cheap, disposable eye-dropper (I got mine from the baby aisle at the local grocery store) and carefully apply the thinned glue over the base. After it dries you really have to work at it to remove any of the material.
You can also add paint to the watered=down glue to add color to the base material.
Great idea with the washer to finish it off and add much needed heft to the mini!
Thanks! Yeah, I love it. Effective and inexpensive.
WASD20, I glued a magnet to the inside of the primer lid and now the based minis stick super easy, hands free, for painting.
Your videos never disappoint, Nate. Great work!
First video I have seen using a washer for the base. Good option!
Hey Nate! Are you going to follow up with videos on the rest of the painting process? I would love to see a miniseries of the whole thing.
I sure am! Stay tuned.
Since you are already using a metal washer base, you could probably glue a strong magnet inside the jar lid to hold the miniature in place.
Ooh. Great tip! I should look into that.
to mount mine I like to use a large pill bottle that has the reversible lid. That way I can turn it over inside the bottle to dry and not get any dust in the paint.
beginner painter, ive always been curious about miniatures claimed pre-primed. I purchased a couple "D&D Nolzur's Marvelous Unpainted Miniatures" that state theyre primed with Acrylicos Vallejo primer.
Mr Beerski The way that Bones are made allows them to be painted without being primed, but you can prime them if you feel the need to if you think the paint won’t stick
Do not use enamel spray paint on bones it will not dry.
Verified. Be careful! Curious how this one turned out. Even the vid creator mentioned "sticky". That was likely a result of the paint itself and not humidity or doing anything wrong. And be advised: it *NEVER* gets any better. All you can do is paint over it or go through the hell of trying to remove the primer. (Acetone works somewhat IIRC.)
i had the same issue. i had some generic Citrus cleaner (Bio-Orange or something similar), soaked it for about ten minutes, brushed it off a bit with an old brush. took all of the primer off with no noticeable effect on the miniature.
ouch to late lol
Just prime with Reaper Brown Liner.
I have used Tamiya Plastic and Metal Primer with not problems. Comes in white, gray, and black.
It is, however, expensive.
Good video. You might like to have a look at the Rathcore miniature holder as that Glass jar looks heavy.
It’s an older code but it checks out.
Thanks for the video! I’m just getting ready to start down the path of painting all the Reaper Bones I’ve been collecting through several Kickstarters.
REaper's own website warns about using spray primer on Bones. I'm actually really amazed that all of your minis didn't turn out sticky or tacky.
That’s what I’ve heard. for me, the color Max stuff I used in this video has always worked very well.
that's all that matters then, I'd say.
Wasd20 you always have awesome ideas! Thanks!
WASD20 (awesome moniker, mines universal to nearly all i do and as ancient as the setting for the novel from which it comes) anyhoo - great work and didn't mean to steal your spotlight or whatnot by mentioning other channels below. Actually only mentioned one but at length. I'm sure you know him. I'm just recently returning to the hobby but always watched BTP videos and lately TabletopMinions. But, as you can see, I watch tons and subscribe to ALL I watch. Hell, half the time I Tweet them too.
Nate: "It is clean kitty litter - not used. That's an important thing to note."
Me: 🤣
Such a helpful tutorial, really nicely done! Thank you
This is a fantastic tutorial! I'm wanting to start painting miniatures, and this will definitely help me out.
Side note: I was looking at your miniatures and painting playlist, and this video wasn't on there. Maybe it's just because I'm on mobile, but just letting you know in case! Again, great video
Oh. Thanks for the tip! I'll make sure it's on the list. Greatly appreciated. :) Happy painting!
I live on a farm and we have a wood oven so if a miniature needs to be dry I sit it reasonably near oven and glazing, washing, painting layers dry nice and quick
Nice model. I recently painted that one. I've had a bit of trouble with primers remaining sticky on the bones plastic though. Unfortunately, where I live it is almost always hot and humid.
+brewgeek1 I feel your pain. Summer is tough here and winter is too cold. I'd recommend getting a small pot of mini primer. They are 5 or 6 bucks I think.
Use an airbrush primer even if you brush it on. Army Painter black primer has worked for me too.
I literally laughed out loud at "it's new kitty litter, it's not used" 😂
I know I'm late, but how do you afford your method of priming? You must've used two thirds of that can on the board! Is there any way to get around wasting so much?
I have since purchased some model primer I can brush on, but the spray primer goes a long way actually. I doubt I even used one tenth. In addition, I usually prime 5-10 miniatures at the same time.
Krylon's got a 'Camo' line of matte primers that should perform a lot better than the ones you used. i highly recommend using those; great coverage and excellent price.
Just use Reaper's brown liner, not spray primer.
Great video man, thank you for your time
I am having a custom mini done for my character by a 3D sculpter that also prints them out and sends them, but I will need to paint it. I have NEVER been good at painting even basic items, let alone small detail painting. If I buy the first learn to paint bones kit, plus the layer up kit, are the instructions and experience learning to paint the minis they come with enough to learn to paint a halfway decent mini?
that last part was great :D
Bartholomew Bugbear thanks you.
I'd be tempted to just leave it black with the grey highlights. it looks awesome.
I kinda think so too. :P
Would make a really simple way to paint a bunch of minis. A goblin or skeleton army, for example.
Actually my video happens to be paused on a scene showing a close-up of that and I just really can't get over how good it looks! *PLUS* you can always add more detail later!
Thank you for the video, very helpful!
Great. Thanks for watching!
Sorry new to minis, does regular acrylic paint work? If it doesn’t and it rubs off in time is there any thing like a topcoat or something that can keep the paint on?
Acrylic paint does work. The problem with standard art paints is they are usually thicker, and it’s a bit of work to get them thin and consistent for painting miniatures. Actual miniature paint makes the job much easier.
And I recommend primer.
A clear topcoat is recommended. Spray varnish or brush on, most most miniature painters prefer matte finish.
@@WASD20 Thank you so much for your tips!
Hmmm....sure wished I had watched this before my most recent pursuits. I've got 52 base miniatures that are black but a little to heavy on the base. I didn't use a "primer"....just a flat black. Guess minis aren't prepped like my landscapes tiles have been. Good video and technique....I look forward to checking out other videos. Do you have any recommendations on how to "remove excess paint" form minis ? I'd like to drop mine into a solution and begin all over. LOL !
Haha. Sorry to hear of the struggle! A flat black can totally work on Bones, though. However, if it's too heavy and you've mucked them up too much a soak in simple green solution for 24 hours will do the trick. Doesn't affect the plastic of the mini itself at all. Just soak and then use a toothbrush to remove any excess. Then re-wash with water and a bit of soap as I did.
Here's a recent post: www.reddit.com/r/minipainting/comments/2xo1vs/stripping_paint_off_reaper_bones/?scrlybrkr=0534e564
Good luck!
Solid.....that completes this weekends "to do list" I'll let you know how it works out.
Yes, do! :)
hi, great tutorial - I'm a total newbie miniature painter ( Not gamer) just came across Reaper products. they seem pricier in the UK?
Thanks for this. I bought a few Bones minis that I painted and the paint didn't take that well to the plastic. The kitty litter is a great Idea I may try myself.
Great! Thanks for the comment, and I hope you find it works for you. :)
have you tried canvas primer like gesso? it works really well and it's cheap
No. I'll have to look into that. Thanks for the tip!
+WASD20 no problem. Gesso literally shrinks against the model, making the details pop, you can get it in clear, white, and black at most craft stores, and it takes like five minutes to apply
+Corey Karber #runonsentence
the package says no priming. so we prime it?
If you are using reaper paint, you don't NEED to. Many still do. Because I use a wide variety of paint, I prime. It helps the paint stick WAY better. I've never had much luck with the 'no prime' method.
With that big washer under, you could get a small, strong magnet and put it under the lid, should work well :-)
You might consider using nitrile gloves (or the equivalent). Fingerprints can also make it difficult for primer to stick.
when you primwed did the fig stay sticky???
Nope. My gray primer does that, and many brands do with Bones. But my Krylon Colormax does a great job.
Great video.
Bones or other plastic minis are a mixed bag imo. They offer the greatest advantage over metal minis when you want a larger figure like a stone giant or even a medium one like your bugbear. The cost savings is much greater ($19 v $5 for a Reaper stone giant I recently bought) and the detail on the figure is about the same as a metal one. Assembly (if any) is easier with the bones material than with a metal figure. However, bones sucks for a human-size figure. The cost savings is trivial ($2 v $6 for a Reaper "Ezren" mage) and it does not have nearly the detail of a metal figure. If you want a figure for your own character or for a key NPC, spend the extra $4 for the metal version. However, I do buy the bones version when I need a mob of goblins, rats, etc. where figure detail isn't important and I'm going to do a quickie paint job anyway.
I agree. If it's a PC you likely be playing for a while it's worth the $6 to $9 or whatever.
a tip for your paints is to add a 8mm stainless silver or steel ball barring to your paint pots, and shake your paints before use to get the most out of your paints the pigments tend to separate when they are stored so it is a good idea to shake them before use, similar to primers
Great tip. Thanks!
i know some have had problems with rust(even though they shouldnt), but to avoid this ceramic beads will never have the chance to deteriorate. 3$ necklace of ceramic beads at a hobby shop will yied you at least 50 beads. thats what i do, anyways. ceramic all the way
You can use hot air from a hair dryer to "soften" the model and repose it by hand.
Out of curiosity, would you prime a reaper mini even if you're following the guide from the Learn To Paint Bones Kit where it doesn't say to?
If you have that kit, then I'd do what they say. It comes with Reaper paint, and that is specially formulated to work on Bones material without primer.
Newb here.
I'm confused. Reaper Bones minis say they're already primed. Is this really necessary?
If you use Reaper paints you can get away with no primer. I usually don't use reaper paints and have MUCH better results with primer.
Thanks for these mini videos, I've been thinking of getting into painting recently. Do you think this method would work with the metal / pewter figures?
+Nick Tomasello It definitely would. With metal I'm usually more careful about making sure everything is covered in primer, however.
i superglue the grit to the base...i find dried pva can chip off too easily...particularly when handling it while painting..
if you prime with white primer, do you still use the grey dry brush?
I probably wouldn't, but you could. Try it out, but I'd keep it pretty light.
would you use the same process for a smaller mini? say 1 inch ballpark?
Yep!
Can you do a vid or explain spell expenditure?
If you haven't seen How to Play D&D part 3 and 4, I'd recommend them. They're all about magic. It really varies based on class, but these videos explain some of the basics: ua-cam.com/video/hTl_4unUc64/v-deo.html
Any suggestions for if the primer doesn't dry right? I used rustoleum black primer and it's left them feeling tacky; been about a day and a half now.
One option would be to strip it completely with Pine Sol. Just soak it in there - here are some instructions: www.how-to-paint-miniatures.com/miniature-painting-removing-paint.html
Alternatively you could try another light coat of primer under better conditions. Just not sure how that would work.
Charles Pope a lot of primer will not dry on Bones
Fender washers? What is that? Do you have a link?
Yes! These would do very well: amzn.to/2KTylwd
I wish you would make a video on how you make a video from filming, editing, making icons and social marketing. Would be a great video series just saying. Out of all the videos I watched on the topic this is the best, bravo man and I'm not just saying it.
Well thanks, man. I'll definitely think about that.
I love this channel too but suggest you at least check out Atom Smasher over at "TabletopMinions" - to many he's their "Bob Ross of minis" AND he's going to be getting more and more into how to "run " a youtube channel etc. He's a pro photographer , went to Art School, is in early 40's and been in "the hobby" entire adult life pretty much and has a lot to offer. I'm here checking out this great vid on the Reapers since I'm doing three of them I got with a reapers paint kit that was such a good deal and came with a nice travel box from Amazon - even 2 brushes, and a really well done instuctional /techniques book with their whole line of paint colors on the back of the book in triads, with the HD (just thicker) paint colors at bottom. Triad (pretty self-explanatory) "system" is pretty nice. I painted some 40k models and others as a kid and have just recently gotten back into the hobby. Hope this wasn't a TLDR - just trying to help as others in "the community" are always so helpful. (even on youtube=makery) ; ]
aren't bones minis pre primed?
Nope.
were do you buy these they are kool as hell
I get them at my local hobby shop, but you can get them on Reaper's site (www.reapermini.com/) or on Amazon: amzn.to/2l9ND3C
There's a place in my town called the fat ogre. Don't know how that would help but just sayin
I just dry brush my reaper bones instead of printing and that works great.
Thanks man.
Bruh they say not to prime these and you say it's very important lmao
Love the vids! Helpful for a new player such as myself! Sub'd!
Excellent. Thanks!
I'm rather getting a kick out of the fact that we have almost the same choice of figs! :D
Ha! That's cool!
Is priming it really necessary
If you use reaper paints, it can be okay without, but even then I'm usually not pleased with the results without primer.
👍👍 to fender washers
Good shit
My advice is to remove mouldlines first before washing the model... A small round modelling file is excellent for it.
Now wait a sec. I hear that it has to be Krylon Paint + primer to prime Bones? I know for a fact that Armory primer just doesn't dry on them at all. I HAVE that kind of Krylon primer and never used it because I kept on reading that it wouldn't dry properly.
It certainly does not have to be Krylon. In my experience any old primer will do. The main thing is, to make sure it can be applied quite thin. The only time I've had experience with it not drying completely is when the weather is quite hot.
You'll always find some who prefer to use more expensive primers that are specific to miniatures, like Citadel. But mine dries just fine! I say give it a shot. The nice thing is, you can always start over too. Simple Green cleaning solution can strip the paint off pretty easily without damaging the mini. I've even heard of some people not priming Bones miniatures at all and being just fine.
I know for a fact that not every spray primer works. I tried to use
Armory Primer (Specifically made for miniatures) and it just wouldn't
dry even under ideal conditions. I keep on hearing good things about
Krylon Camo Plastic Fusion. On the Reaper Forums most people like
using straight Reaper HD or Reaper Brown Liner to "prime" the minis.
I thought bones figures came pre-primed?
If you are using reaper paint then you do not need to prime. Reaper paint will list as Master Series Paint Bones or as MSP Bones.
12:45 Silly boy. It's attached to a washer. You just need a good neodymium magnet underneath that baby food lid.
You're not supposed to spray prime Bones. The chemical bonding process won't allow it to cure. Even the package tells you not to spray prime. (Krylon is great for GW stuff though) Just paint a very light coat of acrylic onto Bones, even cheap craft shit will do if you're mindful not to glob it on.
Also, who the fuck taught this guy how to use a spray can? That was almost funny to watch.
I’ve always had great luck with Krylon color max priming. Some spray primers don’t work quite as well. I’ve had a hard time getting paint to stick if I just go straight to acrylic paint.
i use prescription medicine bottles to hold my minis for painting.
+Ray Slover Those are just about the best! I have none because I'm too healthy. Gotta work on getting sick!
+WASD20 I have an uncle with more issues than I can shake a sick at. I have about 20 of them.
Someone I know says the reaper minis don't need priming.
I've heard that too, but I prefer to play it safe when it comes to possibly losing hours of work.
WASD20 ok thx
They don't NEED it, but I find it helpful. I've tried painting them without primer and I just don't like it.
WASD20 ok