Highly recommend bleeding the trans by filling it then running a drill on the input shaft while putting it into forward and reverse via the lever on the trans to get all the air out then fill it back up from the space made by the bleeding process otherwise it will not have the correct fluid when you run it. Tuf-Torq recommends this process. Also running John Deere Hy-Gard Low Viscosity fluid in it is the best for it.
@@johnnybrown1036you have to have the lever pushed forward or reverse for the axles to turn with the input turning, it has to turn pretty fast to turn the axles.
I want to say thank you for saving me over $700 on a new transmission. I have an ‘06 155c that I just bought from someone who didn’t want to fix the transmission and Decided he’d spend close to $3,000 on an entirely new mower instead. I watched 5 other videos on how to service/repair one of these transmissions but I decided to follow yours completely step by step including the 5w-50 and the Lucas Oil slip stop. Before changing the fluids I barely had reverse on flat ground and if I was on any type of slope you could forget it, Also even going forward up about a 5-6 degree slope it needed me to “jerk” it cause it couldn’t make it up. This combo worked to perfection!!!!!much like you I had to jump through hoops to get 5w-50 but luckily I have a Car quest distribution warehouse 10 miles from my house here in Virginia and I was able to get the oil same day. After replacing it now eats the hill going forward and with the deck on with no problem and my reverse works much better than it did, still have a slight issue on a steep incline in reverse but Im 6’5” and weigh 300lb so I’m probably at the limit of that little transmission. The only thing I did extra was opened up the bottom and cleaned the 2nd magnet and used a “sucker” to get rid of any excess old fluid. Thank you for posting this video!!!
The reverse isn't the trans fault just add extra height to the reverse lever height and it makes it able to give more hydro pressure in reverse. I had the same problem, and I just raised the reverse foot lever height with a bolt. It also goes faster in reverse on flat ground now.
@@PilotViewProductionsthere is a pan with several bolts on the bottom of the transmission that you have to take the bolts out and remove the pan but then you got to find a gasket or make a gasket with the rtv and there's probably a magnet stuck to the bottom inside of that pain to collect more junk.
They say it's non serviceable so it can fail when the fluid is cooked to buggery and you have to spend the 1000 dollars or so to replace it.. If that mower had 500 hrs like you say, then it's no wonder it stopped working. The fluid is so bad that it's all gunked up inside and it cannot flow through the galleries to enable it to function. Good result man. I'm glad to see the 5w-50 did the trick. I suspect the 10w - 30 as was the original spec oil isn't really up to snuff and hence the technical update to 5w-50. I will be doing mine soon as it's got around 360hrs on it. I'm the original owner of the Sabre model John Deere, which is the equivalent to a L110. Has the Kholer 17.5hp engine. It's been very good all these years. Bought it new in 2003.
Been down that road with my l130. Do not use motor oil in the transmission. When it gets hot it thins out and gets micro air bubbles in it. Bought Shield Lubricants hydrostat 20-50 oil and haven't had a problem.
I'm not sure if you're aware, there's another magnet inside the transmission, that magnet is 10X worse than the one on the fill port, as far as shavings go. I just did mine and opened it up. well worth it.
Good video that confirms 5w50 synthetic oil + need to change tranny fluids. Some suggestions: 1) call Tuff Torq for advice. 2) before opening up tranny clean all cooling fins. I respect anyone who fixes equipment. Kudos for your video. FWIW you've got the heavier duty K66. My son in law's 2020 X350 John Deere has El Cheapo Tuff Torq K46BR. I plan to service it at 50-100 hrs + install drain plugs.
Up in WA State. I've a Bad Boy ZT Elite and can't find the 20-50 Full Synthetic. Dealers only half ass stock so when I need some they're out. Oreillys blended oil is all I can get 'round here. I feel your pain with recommended oils. I gave away a olderJohn Deere 240 Garden tractor with manual transmission and it had a lot of attachments with new rear tires; Naugahyde recovered seat. I went thru three of the ol' two cylinder opposed engines. Finally over a four year period of constant belt changes; coil changes I'd had enough of the "John Deere Experience" and now have a "Brand New" Bad Boy ZT Elite setting in my garage.
Hi Dan, yes, they get used and abused - at least mine did. My 1996 GT275 wouldn't go in either direction out in a ditch on a slant n I had to drag it back to the shop with the trusty Suzuki Eiger 400. After cleaning the cooling fins and tranny of 2" packed in oil mist-laden dirt and grass then degreasing it and pressure washing it and rolling it back into the shop ( I already had the green pan off so we drained the fluid, cleaned the filter, and filled it back up w/synthetic hydro fluid after running a considerable amount through it flushing any residual amount of dirty fluid out, adjusted settings on a few things and assembled it. We had already cleaned my worn out patched rusting 48" deck and cleaned and sharpened the blades so we brought that into the shop where it's much cooler and attached that then backed it out and it worked like a champ so we run it finishing up out front where we left off. one needs to put more importance on ppm for sure. I could use a new or good used 48" deck.
I've got a S120 that I purchased in 2022, 28 months ago. I only have 66 hours of use on mine . Warranty term is only 24 months, I'm having transmission problems, saw your video so decided to try it since my warranty is expired. Unfortunately for me, this fix didn't work.
Since you have the trans off already, it's easy to open the case and get to the second magnet near the differential portion of the trans. Also you can clean out/replace the filter easily and then you're good for another 10 years. Also there's good video about adding drain plugs that John Deere doesn't install, but you can, then you can easily change the fluid every couple of seasons or so.
Where's the second one at the first plug that's more towards the back I set mine on stands and start it up while I hold it in drive then hold it in reverse to get all the old transaxle fluid out with the shop vac
Excellent. I need to do this job on a JD 155C. If you could slow down the video of how you pulled out the transmission with the wheels that would be very useful to me. I had seen some other videos that took off the wheels and seem to do more surgery than needed. Appreciate if you could provide the detail in another video. Thanks!
I used 5W50 and lucus anti slip and wow. It performs so well! I tested by cutting 3 Acres on a hill. I think it performed better then when I first got it. L130 strong.
My Husqvarna with the same transmission is 18 years old and still runs fine. The mower deck belt finally wore out along with the front tires so I decided to replace the deck spindles and idler pulleys. The deck spindles and pulleys were still smooth and would spin freely, but I figured since I was this far, I would just replace both. When I installed the new spindles, I popped the bearings out and removed the inner seals, I drilled holes in the lower end of the spindles and installed grease zerks and drilled a hole in the upper end just below the bearing for a grease weep. I then pumped the spindles full of grease. If the originals lasted 18 years without being greased, the new one should last a while as well. This winter I plan to tear into my tranny, clean it and see if anything needs replacing and installl some new oil. Good video BTW, so how is the old girl running now?
So I have an lx176. What your pulling apart is the transaxle? Mine doesn't move at all in reverse until warmed up. Forward used to be ok until this season. Is this where I need to be looking? I'm retired, but have overhauls hundreds, if not thousands of transmissions. Is there a rebuild kit available? Ps, I love your video!
yes there are many rebuild kits! double check to make sure your pedals for forward and reverse are working correctly as well and that your pedals and belt are not overly worn. when you drain your fluid out, check to see how the fluid looks.I ended up getting a John Deere Gt245 since the transmissions on them are practically invincible
I drained my fluid thru a pair of pantyhose with a neodymium magnet in them to check for metal partials. Gives you a good idea of whether it needs rebuilt or fluid changed.
www.tufftorq.com/ go to this website and find the dealer near you. You need to know the type of transmission you have on your unit. It is nice to know if you need to rebuild the pumps inside your transmission or not. There is an additional magnet kit that can be purchased and a whole bunch of seals, axle seals and seals for all the operating levers on the unit and the input shaft seal under the fan. The magnet inside the engine is usually in worse shape than the magnet in the oil fill area. This is the link to the fluid list on the FAQ section of the tufftorq website. tufftorq.ordertree.com/media/promo/TuffTorq/Fluids%20and%20Lubricants.pdf
There is two separate chambers in that trans. Need to take housing apart to drain. The housings are casted with spots for two 5/8 drain plugs to drain both upper and lower also has two magnets that need to be cleaned..
So how about mowing for an hour or so before telling us it solved the problem? I've gotta mow about 4 acres (I'll let horses take care of the rest) and depending on the ambient temperature (Canada) I can get about 2-3 acres done before it gets pretty sluggish. Again because I'm in Canada the repair kit cost us about $560 in communist dollars, so I'm really hoping to use a higher viscosity oil to keep on mowing until my new Husqvarna arrives next year ((thanks you commie libtards)sorta, kinda testing the commy sensor filter:-)
If it's important enough for you to say something, make your audio the same volume as your music. I can NOT hear you speaking, and I have to reduce volume when your mix plays.
Hey bro just to let you know it takes 20 W 50 hydrostatic transmission oil sincerely ..... RIGO SMALL ENGINE I HAVE A JD L120 IV JUST SAVE FROM THE SCRAP YARD PADE $100 CASH AT MID MARCH I HAVE A NOTHE JD 120 I PARK IT CUZ THE DECK ROTTED OUT JD DEALER WOUNTED A GRAND FOR THE DECK WITH OUT THE GUTS JUST THE SHELL IM USEING IT FOR PARTS HIT ME BACK IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS PLEASE HAVE A GOOD DAY BRO
Not only that, the tranny is divided into 2 sections so you're only draining either the hydro side or the gear side. You also can drill and damage internal parts. It's no big deal to remove transaxle every 200 hrs and do it right. Just did my 06, 155c with 705 hrs. for it's first change and works like new now. Power washed and installed all new steering for the 1st time as well. Runs like brand new again.
You know the irony? Even though they say it is non serviceable you can drain and fill it. You can even get the fluid for it too. I really hate that when a manufacturer lies to your face and tells you it is not serviceable when in fact you did it successfully and even had it working better. It just pisses me off!! Is there a John Deere dealer anywhere near you? The fluid is not crazy expensive and may even be cheap at around $5 per quart. Most oils don't get much cheaper than that.
While John Deere lies about the serviceability of those transaxles, Tuff Torq the transaxle manufacturer is great about parts and advice for servicing their products and has a great website: www.tufftorq.com/tuff-torq-k46-oil-maintenance/
@@briantucker7133 Wow! Thanks for the link! Great resource with lots of great info and ADVICE! This is the way all companies should operate.... have a knowledgeable tech run a page on their website like this rather than some clueless millennial running their Twitter feed! Thanks again!
Even a new filter can make a difference. Just what ever you do don't use plain old motor oil in these things!! If it has a wet brake that will not work well with it. If it takes low viscosity Hygard that is sold for around $5 a quart and maybe a little less, at least where I get mine anyhow and buying it by the gallon it is still close in price to that. That surprised me because usually it can be cheaper to buy a 4 or 5 quart jug of an oil rather than 1 quart. If you can't find it for that price you are not looking enough. I would think that regular non low viscosity would be a similar price but it is NOT expensive at all. A lot of people ruin these things by using the wrong fluids in them so ask your self if it is worth it.
@@charleshines6155 I ended up using a different mower brand hydrostatic fluid, living in a rural area so 45min drive and $30 a gallon oil. Works half ass, Trump money is going to buy a new transmission. Tired of working on it to work with it. Thanks for the info.
That's what I did cause only one store sells the shit so I bought a 1 gallon bottle of the right fluid and it's not oil and it's not hydraulic/transmission fluid The 80w90 gear oil doesn't really work that good in the automatic hydrostatic transaxle transmission it's to thick because what came out was thinner But I got the right fluid now of 20w50 synthetic hydrostatic transaxle transmission fluid I'm gonna use it in all my mowers
@@CanadianCivilDefenceMuseum It's not an engine oil so can have a ton more additives. Just like an expensive industrial hydraulic oil. Problem is that none of those r multigrade and never sold in containers less than 5 gal. AT oil is way to thin and designed for wet clutches. The amsoil has 1800 ppm zzdp. It works.
Would be nice if u show what and how u take it off! Hate guys that spent 10 minutes talking about nothing. Then do nothing. The good stuff we can’t see!
Highly recommend bleeding the trans by filling it then running a drill on the input shaft while putting it into forward and reverse via the lever on the trans to get all the air out then fill it back up from the space made by the bleeding process otherwise it will not have the correct fluid when you run it. Tuf-Torq recommends this process. Also running John Deere Hy-Gard Low Viscosity fluid in it is the best for it.
I've done the drill while filling and got 3 quarts and wheels are not moving with the drill. I know I have too much fluid in it.
@@johnnybrown1036you have to have the lever pushed forward or reverse for the axles to turn with the input turning, it has to turn pretty fast to turn the axles.
I want to say thank you for saving me over $700 on a new transmission. I have an ‘06 155c that I just bought from someone who didn’t want to fix the transmission and Decided he’d spend close to $3,000 on an entirely new mower instead. I watched 5 other videos on how to service/repair one of these transmissions but I decided to follow yours completely step by step including the 5w-50 and the Lucas Oil slip stop. Before changing the fluids I barely had reverse on flat ground and if I was on any type of slope you could forget it, Also even going forward up about a 5-6 degree slope it needed me to “jerk” it cause it couldn’t make it up. This combo worked to perfection!!!!!much like you I had to jump through hoops to get 5w-50 but luckily I have a Car quest distribution warehouse 10 miles from my house here in Virginia and I was able to get the oil same day. After replacing it now eats the hill going forward and with the deck on with no problem and my reverse works much better than it did, still have a slight issue on a steep incline in reverse but Im 6’5” and weigh 300lb so I’m probably at the limit of that little transmission. The only thing I did extra was opened up the bottom and cleaned the 2nd magnet and used a “sucker” to get rid of any excess old fluid. Thank you for posting this video!!!
Geoff, where is the 2nd magnet located? And how did you open up the bottom?
How’d you get into the bottom? Thanks
The reverse isn't the trans fault just add extra height to the reverse lever height and it makes it able to give more hydro pressure in reverse. I had the same problem, and I just raised the reverse foot lever height with a bolt. It also goes faster in reverse on flat ground now.
@@PilotViewProductionsthere is a pan with several bolts on the bottom of the transmission that you have to take the bolts out and remove the pan but then you got to find a gasket or make a gasket with the rtv and there's probably a magnet stuck to the bottom inside of that pain to collect more junk.
One of the most helpful valuable do-it-yourself videos I've ever seen. You're alright buddy. Thanks!
They say it's non serviceable so it can fail when the fluid is cooked to buggery and you have to spend the 1000 dollars or so to replace it..
If that mower had 500 hrs like you say, then it's no wonder it stopped working. The fluid is so bad that it's all gunked up inside and it cannot flow through the galleries to enable it to function.
Good result man. I'm glad to see the 5w-50 did the trick. I suspect the 10w - 30 as was the original spec oil isn't really up to snuff and hence the technical update to 5w-50.
I will be doing mine soon as it's got around 360hrs on it. I'm the original owner of the Sabre model John Deere, which is the equivalent to a L110. Has the Kholer 17.5hp engine. It's been very good all these years. Bought it new in 2003.
Been down that road with my l130. Do not use motor oil in the transmission. When it gets hot it thins out and gets micro air bubbles in it. Bought Shield Lubricants hydrostat 20-50 oil and haven't had a problem.
I'm not sure if you're aware, there's another magnet inside the transmission, that magnet is 10X worse than the one on the fill port, as far as shavings go. I just did mine and opened it up. well worth it.
Where’s the second magnet? Do you have to break into the transmission? Thanks
@@shanek6582yes . You have to take the bottom pan off to get the magnet.
@@johnnybrown1036 thanks man , not gonna be long till I get it out again this spring.
Good video that confirms 5w50 synthetic oil + need to change tranny fluids. Some suggestions: 1) call Tuff Torq for advice. 2) before opening up tranny clean all cooling fins. I respect anyone who fixes equipment. Kudos for your video. FWIW you've got the heavier duty K66. My son in law's 2020 X350 John Deere has El Cheapo Tuff Torq K46BR. I plan to service it at 50-100 hrs + install drain plugs.
I drill and tap a 1/4 NPT drain plug in em only got take er out once then
Up in WA State. I've a Bad Boy ZT Elite and can't find the 20-50 Full Synthetic. Dealers only half ass stock so when I need some they're out. Oreillys blended oil is all I can get 'round here. I feel your pain with recommended oils. I gave away a olderJohn Deere 240 Garden tractor with manual transmission and it had a lot of attachments with new rear tires; Naugahyde recovered seat. I went thru three of the ol' two cylinder opposed engines. Finally over a four year period of constant belt changes; coil changes I'd had enough of the "John Deere Experience" and now have a "Brand New" Bad Boy ZT Elite setting in my garage.
I have the same mower as in your video did you special mix an it works great now your the man!! Thanks!!
It has been almost 3 years since you posted this video. How is your tractor running? Is it still working? I am curious to know. Thanks!!!
He sold it. He didn't comment how was running before he sold it.
Hi Dan, yes, they get used and abused - at least mine did. My 1996 GT275 wouldn't go in either direction out in a ditch on a slant n I had to drag it back to the shop with the trusty Suzuki Eiger 400. After cleaning the cooling fins and tranny of 2" packed in oil mist-laden dirt and grass then degreasing it and pressure washing it and rolling it back into the shop ( I already had the green pan off so we drained the fluid, cleaned the filter, and filled it back up w/synthetic hydro fluid after running a considerable amount through it flushing any residual amount of dirty fluid out, adjusted settings on a few things and assembled it. We had already cleaned my worn out patched rusting 48" deck and cleaned and sharpened the blades so we brought that into the shop where it's much cooler and attached that then backed it out and it worked like a champ so we run it finishing up out front where we left off. one needs to put more importance on ppm for sure. I could use a new or good used 48" deck.
I've got a S120 that I purchased in 2022, 28 months ago. I only have 66 hours of use on mine . Warranty term is only 24 months, I'm having transmission problems, saw your video so decided to try it since my warranty is expired. Unfortunately for me, this fix didn't work.
Since you have the trans off already, it's easy to open the case and get to the second magnet near the differential portion of the trans. Also you can clean out/replace the filter easily and then you're good for another 10 years. Also there's good video about adding drain plugs that John Deere doesn't install, but you can, then you can easily change the fluid every couple of seasons or so.
Where's the second one at the first plug that's more towards the back
I set mine on stands and start it up while I hold it in drive then hold it in reverse to get all the old transaxle fluid out with the shop vac
Yes seen that video too. I have 2 of that john deere tractors
@@raymondcastro7938 18:34
Excellent. I need to do this job on a JD 155C. If you could slow down the video of how you pulled out the transmission with the wheels that would be very useful to me. I had seen some other videos that took off the wheels and seem to do more surgery than needed. Appreciate if you could provide the detail in another video. Thanks!
I used 5W50 and lucus anti slip and wow. It performs so well! I tested by cutting 3 Acres on a hill. I think it performed better then when I first got it. L130 strong.
how many quarts did it take to fill it up ?
Please give attention to music as it needs to have the volumn adjusted to match commentary.
Music is good
My Husqvarna with the same transmission is 18 years old and still runs fine. The mower deck belt finally wore out along with the front tires so I decided to replace the deck spindles and idler pulleys. The deck spindles and pulleys were still smooth and would spin freely, but I figured since I was this far, I would just replace both. When I installed the new spindles, I popped the bearings out and removed the inner seals, I drilled holes in the lower end of the spindles and installed grease zerks and drilled a hole in the upper end just below the bearing for a grease weep. I then pumped the spindles full of grease. If the originals lasted 18 years without being greased, the new one should last a while as well. This winter I plan to tear into my tranny, clean it and see if anything needs replacing and installl some new oil. Good video BTW, so how is the old girl running now?
I sold er'! I ended up buying a John Deere Gt245 with a snowblower attachment for $400 which was a steal in my opinion. Best mower I've owned to date
John deere dealer told me it was just 10w-30 in the transmission. I'm kinda skeptical of that as I have a 2005 L120
Hell yeah
Good thing is used mowers are cheap and if this didn’t work out for you, you could’ve just bought another one for like 400
How much fluid did you add after draining the old fluid out
I put 2 quarts and 3-4 ozs
So I have an lx176. What your pulling apart is the transaxle? Mine doesn't move at all in reverse until warmed up. Forward used to be ok until this season. Is this where I need to be looking? I'm retired, but have overhauls hundreds, if not thousands of transmissions. Is there a rebuild kit available? Ps, I love your video!
yes there are many rebuild kits! double check to make sure your pedals for forward and reverse are working correctly as well and that your pedals and belt are not overly worn. when you drain your fluid out, check to see how the fluid looks.I ended up getting a John Deere Gt245 since the transmissions on them are practically invincible
I drained my fluid thru a pair of pantyhose with a neodymium magnet in them to check for metal partials.
Gives you a good idea of whether it needs rebuilt or fluid changed.
@James Wilson There 2 bucks at dollar store, but thy them you might find there very warm in winter months.
www.tufftorq.com/ go to this website and find the dealer near you. You need to know the type of transmission you have on your unit. It is nice to know if you need to rebuild the pumps inside your transmission or not. There is an additional magnet kit that can be purchased and a whole bunch of seals, axle seals and seals for all the operating levers on the unit and the input shaft seal under the fan. The magnet inside the engine is usually in worse shape than the magnet in the oil fill area. This is the link to the fluid list on the FAQ section of the tufftorq website. tufftorq.ordertree.com/media/promo/TuffTorq/Fluids%20and%20Lubricants.pdf
There is two separate chambers in that trans. Need to take housing apart to drain. The housings are casted with spots for two 5/8 drain plugs to drain both upper and lower also has two magnets that need to be cleaned..
Rick Gaida with these horribly built k46 transmissions, the metallic flakes are really what holds them together
Can’t believe they make non serviceable stuff.
So how about mowing for an hour or so before telling us it solved the problem? I've gotta mow about 4 acres (I'll let horses take care of the rest) and depending on the ambient temperature (Canada) I can get about 2-3 acres done before it gets pretty sluggish. Again because I'm in Canada the repair kit cost us about $560 in communist dollars, so I'm really hoping to use a higher viscosity oil to keep on mowing until my new Husqvarna arrives next year ((thanks you commie libtards)sorta, kinda testing the commy sensor filter:-)
Awesome music and a good how to video.
Could you please tell me what the diameter of the rear axles are? 3/4? Want to put rear tires/wheels on a craftsman 19.5 hp 917.270.770 3/4 axle.
I would if I still had that mower!
So did the mix you used work well??
it did! until I sold it and got a John deere GT245
Pretty dark video mate and the volume is quite low. These two factors hinder getting the best out of it.
If it's important enough for you to say something, make your audio the same volume as your music. I can NOT hear you speaking, and I have to reduce volume when your mix plays.
Love the idea for the hitch.
doesn't really help with the step by step process duz it?
Hey bro just to let you know it takes 20 W 50 hydrostatic transmission oil sincerely ..... RIGO SMALL ENGINE I HAVE A JD L120 IV JUST SAVE FROM THE SCRAP YARD PADE $100 CASH AT MID MARCH I HAVE A NOTHE JD 120 I PARK IT CUZ THE DECK ROTTED OUT JD DEALER WOUNTED A GRAND FOR THE DECK WITH OUT THE GUTS JUST THE SHELL IM USEING IT FOR PARTS HIT ME BACK IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS PLEASE HAVE A GOOD DAY BRO
Easiest way is to drill and tap for drain plug in lowest part of trans. Then you can change trans oil easy.
Um...except you still can't fill it without pretty much removing the trans......
And you still have to clean both magnets.
Not only that, the tranny is divided into 2 sections so you're only draining either the hydro side or the gear side. You also can drill and damage internal parts. It's no big deal to remove transaxle every 200 hrs and do it right. Just did my 06, 155c with 705 hrs. for it's first change and works like new now. Power washed and installed all new steering for the 1st time as well. Runs like brand new again.
Nice job. Can this be done on john deere d130?
J Kevin yes it’s the same transmission
it is the same transmission!
Who told you to put 5 w 50 ????
Forums I read, worked great actually
Well done
3 more magnets in side
Will this work in the D-140 John Deere?
Yes it will
You know the irony? Even though they say it is non serviceable you can drain and fill it. You can even get the fluid for it too. I really hate that when a manufacturer lies to your face and tells you it is not serviceable when in fact you did it successfully and even had it working better. It just pisses me off!! Is there a John Deere dealer anywhere near you? The fluid is not crazy expensive and may even be cheap at around $5 per quart. Most oils don't get much cheaper than that.
While John Deere lies about the serviceability of those transaxles, Tuff Torq the transaxle manufacturer is great about parts and advice for servicing their products and has a great website: www.tufftorq.com/tuff-torq-k46-oil-maintenance/
@@briantucker7133 Wow! Thanks for the link! Great resource with lots of great info and ADVICE! This is the way all companies should operate.... have a knowledgeable tech run a page on their website like this rather than some clueless millennial running their Twitter feed! Thanks again!
What was the level of the fluid when refilling ?
Even a new filter can make a difference. Just what ever you do don't use plain old motor oil in these things!! If it has a wet brake that will not work well with it. If it takes low viscosity Hygard that is sold for around $5 a quart and maybe a little less, at least where I get mine anyhow and buying it by the gallon it is still close in price to that. That surprised me because usually it can be cheaper to buy a 4 or 5 quart jug of an oil rather than 1 quart. If you can't find it for that price you are not looking enough. I would think that regular non low viscosity would be a similar price but it is NOT expensive at all. A lot of people ruin these things by using the wrong fluids in them so ask your self if it is worth it.
@@charleshines6155 I ended up using a different mower brand hydrostatic fluid, living in a rural area so 45min drive and $30 a gallon oil.
Works half ass, Trump money is going to buy a new transmission. Tired of working on it to work with it.
Thanks for the info.
Tuff Torque uses 10w 30 in their K46 trans, from the factory. Look it up! But what the fuck do they know?
That's what I did cause only one store sells the shit so I bought a 1 gallon bottle of the right fluid and it's not oil and it's not hydraulic/transmission fluid
The 80w90 gear oil doesn't really work that good in the automatic hydrostatic transaxle transmission it's to thick because what came out was thinner
But I got the right fluid now of 20w50 synthetic hydrostatic transaxle transmission fluid I'm gonna use it in all my mowers
Do something about you narrative volume (needs to be louder) do something about your music volume (needs to be lower)
With all due respect, I do this as a hobby. If I got paid more, I could put out higher content and quit my current job... but i don't lol
@@zippyzappyz Most of the editing software I've used has "Normalize Audio" settings. It makes all volumes match, and doesn't cost any extra to use it.
What was the perfect mix?????
If you watch all the way to 17:40 he ends up redoing it it with a blend of Castrol 5W50 and a 1/6th bottle of Lucasoil Stop Leak.
@@patrickkellar6775 👍great thanks
Do yourself a favor. Amsoil hydrostatic 20w-50, readily available including Napa.
Why do you suggest this oil?
@@CanadianCivilDefenceMuseum It's not an engine oil so can have a ton more additives. Just like an expensive industrial hydraulic oil. Problem is that none of those r multigrade and never sold in containers less than 5 gal. AT oil is way to thin and designed for wet clutches. The amsoil has 1800 ppm zzdp. It works.
And the synthetic zero turn hydrostatic transaxle transmission fluid will work too in the orange bottle
Would be nice if u show what and how u take it off! Hate guys that spent 10 minutes talking about nothing. Then do nothing. The good stuff we can’t see!
Go here (Part 1) and then go to Part2. You can see it all here! Sorry I did not see this post 8 months ago! ua-cam.com/video/jMeJm9OIJcI/v-deo.html
My d110 went at 17 hours
That is very unusual. Is it still in warranty ?
add a can of stp to that oil
Bwahaa, he's lame .
I appreciate your feedback
You talk too much. Get to the point.
👍🏻
Bottom line you hung with it. It worked. Good fix....and good job! How is holding up? Would love to know!