I just did a complete top end performance rebuild to my 94 raising compression, intake, cam, aluminium heads, true full duel exhaust, headers, fuel system upgrades, and a custom tuned Jet chip. I love these old trucks. It’s great to see other guys restoring and resurrecting them.
I just built a 5.7 350 small block for my truck was not able to put any goodies on it just a stock motor but I absolutely love my truck and will never get rid of it. 89 Chevy and I even have the color matched Chevy jacket that was an option when you bought a new Chevy truck in the 80s
TBI was from '87 to '95. I have 1 of each. My '95 runs fantastic but my '87 needed help. The previous owner did ZERO preventive maintenance. I bought the non-working truck from his widow. The engine looked like a chocolate milkshake inside as did the rear end. I pressure tested the cooling system and it held 20 PSI for 1/2 an hour and the needle never moved. I had already pulled the valve covers and found a worn through exhaust rocker arm on #8 cylinder. I cleaned the engine out with Brake clean and put in new rockers and 5 quarts of oil and a new oil filter. Still no start. Removed the original factory fuel filter and it was plugged solid. Replaced the fuel filter and she started right up. I did replace the TPS also and it made a big difference. My fuel pump also went out and I replaced it so now she runs decent. Thanks for the video and take care.
@@terrybrown797 You are 110% incorrect. I have a 1987 Chevy R10 that has TBI FROM THE FACTORY! 1986 was the last year for Pick up trucks to have a carburetor. Do some research and educate yourself. You must be a snowflake. You sternly believe in things that are not so. I was an auto mechanic for more than 20 years. I have rebuilt HUNDREDS of carburetors, including feedback Quadrajets, which happen to be my specialty. I know the difference between a carburetor and TBI fuel injection. Apparently you don't.
I will look into the egr valve being stuck. But the cat is brand new. installed November of last year. Today same thing happened today. Runs great great for 15 minutes and then starts to run really bad. I hardly made it home it was acting up so bad. The engine was really shaking. I thought computers were suppose to make things better. Can't the ecm see the engine isn't running right?
I changed the throttle position sensor, the plugs, distributor cap and wires, injectors were fine, changed the fuel filter. Checked the fuel pressure and it was fine but after none of these fixes worked I decided to change the fuel pump. That was the problem. The pressure was fine when I had it in park or even in drive but I’m assuming when I would drive it the pressure would drop. Hope my comment helps anyone save the headache I went through.
What was your symptoms? I have chnaged just about everything past few months. Idek what to do anymore. Worried about pulling this darn pump out cause nothing worked for me so far. Seems like when the truck is cold it runs a little better
@@Drayelam21I’m in the same boat I have a 1990 gmc sierra with a 350 in it I replaced the fuel pump spark plugs spark plug wires distributor cap and even fuel pump I drive the truck and with any kind of acceleration it bogs and turns off
Oh my God it is almost like I wrote this. Except I haven't changed the pump I've changed everything else under the damn hood. I put a new pump in it back last July. I'm going to feel like a jackass if that's the problem
@@latrogeniwile58 have seen fuel pumps,egr valves, sensors last over 200,000 miles without creating any issues-IAC motors get gummed up,egr valves get carbon buildup-I dont replace parts due to recommended intervals-transmissions now have lifetime fluid-nope.
Before changing a bunch of parts, get a fuel pressure gage and screw it on the Schrader valve in the stainless steel fuel rail. Turn the key on (don't start engine) you should hear the fuel pump come on, helps to remove the fuel cap to hear better. You should see the gage go to 60 pounds. Turn the key off and see if it stays there (if it leks down change the fuel pressure regulator)
Mine is an 89 the first year for the TBI there are no Schrader valve fuel lines go directly into the throttle body so in order to check fuel pressure you have to take off the return line on the throttle body have to get an old-school fuel pressure tester that screws into the throttle body and into the fuel return line to check fuel pressure if you are checking fuel pressure at the fuel pump you can do that where the fuel filter is located just simply remove the fuel filter and hook up your fuel pressure rental tool that you can get at any local auto parts
Tbi motors stock will only make 8 to 13psi of fuel pressure. Also these tbi systems are designed to bleed off pressure fairly quickly. So that's normal. Figured I would put some accurate info on this old thread.
my 1994 has just turned 245.048 miles ! this is one helluva great truck- thanks CHEVY !!!! BTW- IT ALWAYS RUNS COOL AS A CUCUMBER AROUND 120-140* NO OIL LEAKS OR SMOKING
Slight hesitation at 45-50 mph similar to it feeling like a misfire can be caused by the transmission trying to shift into overdrive. The feel of it trying to shift from 3rd to 4th unsuccessfully feels like a miss and can lead you to look in an entirely wrong direction
To adjust TV cable mostly common on your 700 R4 Transmission is to locate the end of the TV cable on top of the intake manifold towards the driver side rear of your intake manifold where the cable comes into the bracket there is a half circle button on the side when you press that button in it releases the caller on the TV cable with the button pressed push the colour of the TV cable back towards the firewall release button and press accelerator to Full Throttle that's all you need to do to set your TV cable. Unless you are installing an aftermarket TV cable then you will have to set your length before setting TV cable. Hope this helps somebody I had to do it on my 89 Chevy Silverado C1500 5.7 L V8
You mentioned the distributor cap not sitting level and half not running right. Sounds like the cap screws were not all engaged. it is tight back there. I have a 98 Silverado with over 257K miles and STILL going !
@@rontownsend8235 oh yeah, that's it. Grind the ones you can reach and snap the heads off the others you can't with grinder. Then pray they don't snap off in the threaded sockets welded to the bed trying to remove those. No thanks I'll just drop the tank.
If you have a fuel pump issue on these trucks and you want to replace it easier don't drop the tank. Just tilt the bed. It's really simple there's a ton of videos on how to do it and you have full access to that fuel pump.
This same thing happened to me it ended up being my fuel pump . I had people tell me it was a blown head gasket to the timing belt/ chain . They didn't know shit lol
I have a sneaky suspicion that is my problem as well. I have a 1996 Chevy truck with 525,000 miles on it. I am going to check into that first - and yes I have changed it out before many years ago.
I guess im asking randomly but does anyone know of a way to get back into an Instagram account..? I was stupid forgot my login password. I would appreciate any tricks you can offer me
@Harvey Declan i really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and Im trying it out now. Takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
I want this square body extended cab Silverado especially just like the one in the video navy bye with the two tone silver and alloy wheel damn looks fresh ! Z71 off-road suspension and a leveling kit, BFG all terrains and 20% tints all around that would be so sick! Maybe a 5.3 ls swap altho I really love the 350 better low end torque and sounds amazing classic, with a bigger cam and flow master dual exhaust with headers and a performance tune damnnn
I have a 1990 Silverado Extended Cab with a 5.7 T.B.I engine. She has been going strong for 30 years ! However, I will be up grading the engine, drive train and rear end. You're correct, they DON'T make em' like this anymore. Still running: "Chevy Tough" ! 👍👊
What it was with my vortec 5.7 when i swapped out the old 305, was the spark plugs, wires, and distributor. I replaced the distributor with a billet one and replaced the plugs and wires. The symptoms were around 45-55 mph in 4th overdrive and tcc lockup it would chug and shutter and cut out and i initially thought it was a bad torque converter but apon testing the coil and inspecting it i determined ut was bad. It had pitting and heat damage and a spark created from it would not jump a big enough gap.
I'm having the same problems I notice the coil looks pretty old I also cant move my egr valve diaphragm so will replace those two and see I have a 90 caprice with tbi 305
I replaced my MAP sensor just today. Took on a test drive and it seemed to fix my hesitation problem. My truck would hesitate when trying to keep a steady 25 or steady 35 mph. I will give feedback in about a week to see if it's truly fixed.
Went down this same road with my 96 Tahoe. Replaced fuel pump, every sensor, ECM, ignition, and all new distributor. Ended being a leaky fuel injection so replaced it with latest AC Delco model. Runs like a top now but just had to replace my cats because they burned up in the process. Just for note. The old poppet style injectors were notorious for going out so for people chasing a gremlin and replacing every sensor I would recommend pulling the intake and looking there. But if you haven't replace the injection at this point it's must. The new style is much better.
A quick note on changing pumps on at least GM conventional beds remove tail gate, remove bed bolts put piece of card board or scrap carpet between right side rear bed and bumper end and lift bed from left side up like opening trunk,put milk crate under wheel well rest on tire. Fuel tanks is in open site easy to get at no trying to deal with heavy tanks that quit with fuel in them. I've done this 3 times on my own 2000 z71 Silverado. I can do this in about 30 minutes by myself. The first pump I put in I did the remove the tank that was full with 26 gals of fuel,way to muck work, do the previous version much less work.
I just picked one up for 1500 it's very clean besides rusty quarter panels it hesitates a little these are all minor costing fixes though that will give me something to do on my day off work today.Thanks!
I had a weird hesitation AND Misfire too. 1997 GMC Suburban K1500. It would hiccup at all speeds. Ran several tests, didnt find anything. So we began an intense process: changed, spark plugs, wires and cap and rotor= still hesitated. Changed EGR valve=still hesitated. Checked all vacuum lines, no dice. Cleaned any valves or connections to crank case, nothing. Changed fuel filter, nada. Changed the old spider injector to the upgraded one with the wires at the tips. That helped, but still had hiccups. Changed battery when it died. It ended up being the distributor. The gear teeth at the bottom had worn down. Had to replace the whole thing and install it wrong by it being advanced by one tooth in order for it to work at 15 degrees. It took months but the result was all that new stuff.
My experience was very much the same. Sometimes you have to fire up the parts cannon and just keep replacing things until something fixes the problem. But now I have a lot of new parts on the engine. On my truck I think it was a clogged catalytic converter that sometimes let air through and sometimes didn’t.
I have a similar hiccup. I’m so frustrated. My truck has a new fuel injectors, fuel pump, fuel filter, spark plugs, plug wires, ignition coil, and ignition control module. I put all that in. The truck was surging. The new fuel pump fixed that, but it still cuts out at 2000-3000 rpms. The only thing I can think of now is replacing the distributor. Or maybe it is the EGR, MAP sensor, vacuum leak, or throttle position sensor.
I live in the salt belt and still unbolt the bed. Start spraying the bolts a week before hand. If your truck is rusty its rusty, your tank straps will be rusty too. It's really fast to go under with an impact and rattle those bolts out, just loosen the last two and jack the bed up like a dump box.
1993, 5.7l, C1500. Starting this last Fall (2022), upon heat soak, the engine/transmission would intermittently drop out. This also happened occasionally when hitting a pothole or crossing a bridge expansion joint. So, over the mild Winter whenever weather was nice enough, I started a detailed inspection of the wiring... I cut out and refreshed three highly corroded ground lugs in addition to repairing sketchy-looking terminal end wiring at a couple of sensors. Also, the "convenience center" terminal block along with the fuel pump relay grounds were disassembled, cleaned, greased with dielectric paste, and reassembled. However, none of my findings appeared to be a true smoking gun and the engine/transmission drop-out remained. I did have the truck up on jack stands so I could inspect and replace the taillight wire ground in the rear. The fuel pump ground *_should_* and was okay since I recently dropped the gas tank to refresh the brake and fuel lines. While the truck was up on the jack stands, I traced the transmission control wiring harness looking for pinches, problems, and perforations. Then, I reached up to check the harness connector plug into the transmission itself. The plug was out about half it's completely seated distance. Well, a connector barely seated would certainly be a good suspect for an intermittent heat soak and jarring roadway hiccup problem... Being thirty years old, there is no longer any click left in the plastic harness connector. I drilled a couple of holes in the metal guard protecting the harness connector point from brush and safety-wired the terminal in-place on the transmission. So far, the drop-out has not made itself noticed again. Check that harness connector at the transmission! It's a quick and cheap thing to verify!
1995 Chevy C1500, 4.3 liter V6, 80k miles!. Truck began surging, missing and hesitation after warm up. Had something similar happen 5 years ago. Truck would start, go a block or so and die. Started it back up, same thing, a few blocks then konk out! Had it towed to my mechanic who replaced the fuel pump, problem fixed. Fast forward to the last couple of weeks, truck started fine, 5 minutes later it was choking, wheezing, stumbling and dying, no power, off idle! Thought it was gonna be another fuel pump as I don't use the truck much and figured maybe the gas went to kerosene or maybe the pickup pump sock pulled up some dirt or rust from inside the 30 year old tank. I probably only put 1000 miles on it over the past 5 years and couldn't believe the fuel pump needed replacement again? I read this and other OBS Chevy threads and decided to try swapping out a few sensors. Changed out the TPS, MAP, Temperature sensor and Idle Air Control valve... No change. No harm no foul, since they were all 30 years old original parts! Next up the Up- Stream Oxygen sensor as the problem occured after warm up and that sensor sends from 0.1 to 1.0 volts back to the ECU after exhaust and an internal heating element brought the sensor temp to 600° sending a voltage back within that .01-1.0voltage range. As I understand it, low voltage indicates a lean exhaust condition and a higher voltage indicates a rich condition. So, I figured if the sensor was defective and possibly sending a low milli-voltage back to the ECU causing it to richen, or in this case over-riched the air/gas mixture causing the engine to flood and konk out! I could not get the 30 year old oxygen sensor out as it was seized to the welded on bung. I tried MAPP gas torch, blaster penetrant, 7/8" deep socket with breaker bar, pipe wrench with dum dum hammer but no good, it wouldn't budge, not even a thread. There wasn't much room on that header pipe which was just in front of the Catalytic Converter where both header pipes covered and I didn't want to take the header pipes off if I could avoid it to weld on a new bung for a new sensor. Instead I found a "no weld" bung kit which consisted of a curved 3" metal plate with a threaded hole to accept the new sensor, an exhaust gasket and a couple of 6" radiator hose clamps. Idea being, drill a hole in the pipe to coincide with the curved mounting plate's, hole, attach the plate and gasket to the pipe via the 2 radiator clamps and eliminate the need to weld a new bung to the pipe... on my back! It worked as designed, installed the sensor and reconnected the wire harness. Squirmed out from under the truck which was up on ramps and fired up the engine... 5 minutes later it was a fail, same conditions as before, no change!. Figured the Oxygen sensor wasn't the problem and so I loaded the parts Canon with a TPS, MAPP, AND IAC sensors. Swapped them in one at a time, discharged the system caps after each try by disconnecting the battery and put the headlight switch on to bleed off any residual voltage to reset the ECU , ( no codes thrown by the way, ever), result... Fail! No change whatsoever? Some folks suggested a plugged gas tank vent but removing the gas cap made no difference, checked all the vacuum lines, EGR valve, injectors for cone spray pattern but all good? Going nuts now like everybody else and then it hit me... what if the new oxygen sensor was also bad, causing the same conditions as the original O2 oxygen sensor. I was at wits end but since I neglected to bench test the new oxygen sensor before installing it, well anything is possible right, especially for non-OEM replacement parts! Put the truck back up on the ramps, detached the new sensor's wiring harness, slithered back out from under the truck, cranked Christine (wife's nickname for the truck) up, it idled at 800 as usual but incredibly it stayed there, roick solid like a sewing machine! Drove it for 30-40 minutes to get it hot and not a single misstep! Ran like a veritable clock! Problem solved for under $50! God, I love that truck, err Christine that is! I hope this helps another OBS Truck fan! 💪
Well, that’s always how it goes. I’m glad you figured out the problem, and shared it with everyone. Sometimes you have to replace everything before you figure out the problem. That definitely happened to me.
I have a 1993 c1500 chevy. And I replaced almost everything on my truck and its cheaper to fix it rather then to get a new pickup lol. Unfortunately my body is rusting =( but I. Also planning to fix that too. True what you said....its a real pickup 👍🏻
When my engine blew up everyone told me to just buy a new vehicle but once you have driven an old Chevy truck there is nothing else you are willing to drive. 1989 Chevy Silverado C1500 single cab long bed 5.7 L 350. old school Chevy for life
As far as the fuel pump goes I have found out after 4 or 5 fuel pumps that it is easier to take off the bed it's only four bolts and you have good access to your tank without getting any gas on you. Just slide the bed back far enough to access the fuel pump and your good to go
OBS 88-98 (2000 3/4 & 1 ton) trucks are the last good truck's GM made in my opinion. Early LS before the actice fuel management was alright, but had weak rear differentials
It's amazing how expensive a repair can be without a few steps of diagnostic effort. I hate to say this but most qualified mechanics would have found that diagnosis within an hour, the lack of codes notwithstanding. It takes 5 minutes to measure exhaust backpressure, and the story was typical, almost diagnostic. It would have been easy to exclude the fuel pump and fuel filter with pressure testing under load at the Schraeder valve, and even bad fuel injectors would have shown fuel trim clues. I agree with you about these trucks. They have a classic, timeless design and they age surprisingly well if rust doesn't take them first.
I have a 2000 GMC Savana 3500 with a bogging down problem. She runs great but every once in a while chugs like shes choking and I can barely move and almost get stranded. I put her in park, shut her off then start her up and shes fine for a bit. Can't figure it out. I've done plugs, wires, fuel filter, replaced leaky hoses, etc
Gus Ricciuti check your IAC valve it's probably sticking. You can take it out and clean it with some throttle body cleaner before buying a new one. Also test your connecters with a multimeter or simply add dielectric grease to it and connect it back up and see how it runs. Make sure your throttle plates aren't gunked up so clean them. Check if your EGR still has suction if not replace it. Check your TPS as well. And last but not least your O2 sensor. I'm almost positive it's your IAC valve though! Disconnect your TPS and see how it drives.. If it drives better it's your IAC or TPS.. TPS is being affected by your IAC because your ECM is misreading air flow!
If you have this problem first thing to check is if it is runnin rich if its doin that that means your flooding the throttle body the main cause of that is your o2 sensor and that is located in the cats
After new distr. which was bad. Still my truck missed on a load, next I put new spark plugs. Still problem next I bought a engine temp sensor. Yep still missed on a load. I was ready to get rid of my truck. Ngext day I checked on the web, a guy pulled the hose off the EGR and plug the hose My truck is running well now. I had duel exhaust wonder if I even need the EGR. going to drive a couple days and my buy a new EGR. It worked guys!
egr valve not bleeding through the bypass was/is a common things on them. first place I go when there's an off idle/low throttle stumble/miss, yet idle fine and run wide open. ;)
yeah, I have a 99 suburban... same deal except fuel pump - it's sitting in my basement. It never took a crap on me while driving but ran like shite for a good year or two until I replaced cat, sparks and plugs, dist cap and fuel injection spider which was a huge pain in the butt ... honestly, just replacing cat alone helped tremendously
I have 95 Chevy Tahoe with the same problem. I unplugged the egr valve and it stopped hesitating but check engine light code 32 came up. This code has three different interpretations depending on year and model. It basically says that there is something wrong with egr system. So I decided to put a vacuum gauge on the egr solenoid to see if it had a leak. I put it on the solenoid and was not getting a vacuum leak there. But, I cracked the throttle a little bit and then I had a hard shot of vacuum on the gauge. What is going is that the ecm is calling for the egr valve to be opened right at cracking the throttle. When you get passed this point of throttle the vacuum drops and the valve shuts and it acts normal from there out until you crack the throttle again. the only thing that will fix this is a vacuum delay valve that helps delay the egr valve from opening too soon and while you have greater engine rpm to handle the egr valve opening. Take note, the solenoid will not open the egr valve until you get to full operating temperature. This is why you truck doesn't hesitate when first started.
Interesting. Thanks. On my 4.0 chevy V6 in my van, the EGR valve would get carbon buildup, causing it to run rough. Cleaning it fixed the problem. I hadn't thought about a vacuum delay valve.
When your truck is cold it is in the close loop phase. The computer sets the idle speed and fuel mixture until it reaches operating temperature. My best bet would be to check spark plugs and wires, fuel filter and distributor cap and components. Good luck.
now and then i get a 32 and on my 92 astro...cleaned EGR valve and passage and new solenoid..runs great no stalling etc...i just have up. i do not need emissions inspection anyway.
I have a 94 K1500. Had the rattle. Replaced cats and it ran good for a while. A year later moved 6000 miles away and drove with most of our stuff in a trailer. Was fine for about 4000 miles into the trip. Then it started again. Come to find out the throttle body had a hairline fracture in it and was pulling too much air through it. Ecu couldn't compensate for it. Check engine light never came on. Btw...my 94 is the same color blue and silver.
Going through the same thing with my 95 Suburban right now. Replaced throttle position sensor, fuel pump, map sensor, oxygen sensor and catalytic converter. Cleaned the throttle body and injectors. Checked vacuum lines, etc. Runs good at high rpm, dies for no apparent reason when pulling up to stop signs/lights, or sometimes while just sitting and idling. Seems like it wouldn't run well at high rpm if it was a fuel filter problem? Going to clean the egr valve next. Newer plugs and wires, no missing or rough idle. No check engine code. If the egr valve doesn't work, next stop is the shop - tired of not being able to drive it. Glad to hear thoughts from anyone who knows about this issue.
It might be the EGR valve. Mine got stuck on my Astro van, and it wouldn’t idle until I cleaned it. I also had the ECU computer go bad on my truck and had to replace it. It was idling crazy and the transmission was shifting it really high RPMs, but changing the ECU computer and chip fixed it.
Update: Turned out to be the MAP sensor, which means that two new ones I bought online from Amazon were defective. I stopped by an old auto repair business in Table Rock, NE, explained what was going on, and the owner went into the back room, came out a minute later with a used MAP sensor, said, "Try this". I explained I already tried two new ones, and he said to try it anyway, so I did. Check engine light went away and runs perfect ever since. Too late to return the defective ones of course, since I had spent several months trying to fix this *&^$*#@ thing. Half dozen different mechanics between NE and CA couldn't figure it out - this guy, a couple minutes. Sitzman Auto Repair, Table Rock, NE
Yes. I made this video about it. In my case, it didn’t make much difference because the problem was something else. You can also take off the EGR valve and cleaned it out if it’s not working rather than buying a new one. How To Replace The EGR Valve On A GM 350 V8 Engine ua-cam.com/video/3DwDBIRrtso/v-deo.html
I have a 94,only paid $1000 for her w/136k on the motor,1 owner.. truck is a reliable good truck,and I love it,but starting to have these minor issues and replacing minor stuff here and there.. just replaced my alternator 2 weeks ago but now I'm getting a surging idle w/rough acceleration after its warm and only while driving,noticed it would surge when I'd come to a stop(light,stop sign etc),I just noticed exhaust fumes coming out right around the tail end of the catalytic converter and that rattle like mentioned.. I was going to replace the spark plugs,distributor cap,ejectors(with Delco Spyder Injection instead of Center Point Injection),put on the Throttle Body spacer I bought,and a Jet Chip.. for the most part she's a good truck,hasn't left me stranded,but I just started having that idling issue while driving ,in park idle it's fine,neutral and pressing the gas its fine,just happens while I'm driving(bad acceleration),in drive stopped at a light it surges like almost stall then wants to take off then wants to stall,then Service Engine Soon came on then back off.. a weird issue I've never experienced before
I have a 93 silverado 5.7 ran fine until I used spray injector cleaner now it hesitate when I take off I already replaced egr map sensor throttle position sensor and the idle air sensor didn't solve the problem any ideas?
I had this problem! Changed everything. Last thing i did fixed it. Cheapest thing I could do. fuel filter. Fuel pressure was good. Under power hesitation. Change the filter first cheap and easy.
hoohoohoblin...... yeah I do have Restriction but you how it goes. I fixed the problem on my truck, it was Map Sensor connector. Now it runs Great, I'm just going to put some other sensors it will be good.
Mine doesn't either the problem I'm haveing is the idle is to high changed the idle air control valve and the tps and still chokes out when started until rpms drop below 1000 and is started late shifting I'm suspecting the map sensor but honestly I'm kinda lost I'm starting to feel like I'm just replaceing till i get the right one mine is a 1994 3/4 ton 4×4 with the 5.7 auto trans with over drive
@Devon Pennartz it does I'm thinking at this point it could be my shift solenoids in the valve body in my transmission if you pull the pan there right there side by side. I've read if they get clogged it can cause all kinds of issues. Let me know what you come up with id be very interested to know.
@Scott Lovell the 4l60e has a bad problem with the 1 to 2 accumulator and the 3 to 4 accumulator GM put plastic pistons in them and they dont hold up very long. Mine shifts from 1 to 2nd about 25mph and then 2nd to 3rd around 45 but when it get up in the rpms at normal driving conditions it erraticly fires. I also have rich conditions.
miss my 97 Sierra, I had hesitation issues, bought a 2003 Saturn ion, kept the truck. But my dad who owned it traded it towards a Nissan ultima, only got $500. God kicking my ass after that.
I just had my heads done on my 94 silverado and the truck hasn't been right since. I replaced the maf sensor, ignition module and o2 sensor. Then the codes read egr valve and selonoid. When I went to replace the selonoid I noticed the mechanic had hooked the vacuum line up to the vent. I hooked it up right and the truck ran great that day but went back to hesitating the next day.
I know this video is old, but that is a nice truck. It could be worse, I had a 97 Z71 short bed with the usual P0300 code, and my 96 is doing it now. It's the plastic distributor housing causing the distributor shaft to wobble. The fix is the MSD distributor with the aluminum housing.
Thanks. At some point I had the distributor replaced recently. We did that we were trying to figure out what was wrong. I’ve heard that they can go bad.
I was messing with the egr valve and it seems to move freely. I had order a vacuum switch because I broke it. The cat is brand new as the entire exhaust system. Thank you for your help.
Given that it's mostly run by a computer, I know that it's possible to spend thousands while a mechanic replaces parts the computer tells him are suspect. Seldom does it help, and not for long if it does. Better to take the time like in this video and replace what you can by yourself. I would like to find a Silverado specialist who can get a feel for what needs to be replaced and has the shop and tools to do it. Not just chase vague computer read outs. I think it's time to change my CC, that's where the rattling is probably coming from. I couldn't find it. Thanks for great upload.
You’re welcome. I understand how frustrating this stuff is. I wish I knew someone who was a wizard and could point to the exact problem. I ended up replacing a whole bunch of parts, and then taking it to a local mechanic who made a bunch of random guesses as well and replaced a bunch of parts. It is running right now though. It better, because almost everything is new.
My chevy express (2005) pulls back like the brake is on while my foot is on the gas. I'm afraid it will be something like the differential? Or maybe wheel barrings?
Hey I’ve got a 1988 GMC Sierra with 5.7 the original engine has been remanufactured to gm spec’s. I’ve added upgraded air filter stainless shorty headers new new value covers and installed dual exhaust with flowmaster super 10. Been running great the last few weeks it’s been skipping on accelerations and when climb feels sluggish. Checked the plugs some needed to be recalibrated and were a little dark . Cleaned them recalibrated reinstalled. Runs better but there is still hesitation. Any ideas what I should check?
Thanks. These are great trucks. I replaced the distributor and cap And rotor along with everything else. I know the old distributor seemed like it was bent, and the rotor wasn’t going around in a perfect circle.
Mines been hesitating for years but I just ignore it but kinda wanna get it fixed. I think I might replace the TPS since I’ve already replaced the fuel pump and filter. Was also thinking about doing the distributor as well. Thanks for the great videos
You’re welcome. On this truck I’m pretty sure the problem was the catalytic converter. I think the plates had gotten loose, so sometimes they would block the exhaust flow, and other times they would bounce around and the exhaust would be able to get out. After I put a new catalytic converter in it, it runs great.
Yeah I forgot to mention I don't know how many miles do you have but it should last forever I'm in original owner I bought my truck brand new I live in Arizona there's no rust nothing's wrong with the whole truck it's perfect original engine and transmission and I'm at 443000 Miles and going strong....
Update I just did 500,000 the engines still all original the transmission started slipping in 4 th gear at 467,000 so I had the transmission rebuilt. My truck's running great I love it hope yours is still around😊
I have a 92 c2500, 350 tbi. The parts cannon has been fired many times.. every last part has been changed down to the exception of the brain itself and the injectors.. fuel pump changed out, filter changed. New CTS, TPS… new Air Idle Control valve.. entire new distributor and coil. New plugs and wires.. new O2 sensor.. new MAP sensor… I completely rebuilt the TBI unit, including rebuilding the fuel pressure regulator.. puts out12 psi.. new gaskets for tbi including base gasket.. grounds cleaned and checked.. Vacuum lines/leaks checked.. looked for intake leaks… I’ve even replaced the EGR electronic vacuum/valve part.. Set timing to exact factory spec… everything. I’ve even replaced the catalytic converter, thinking the original 250k unit was plugged… I freaking give up. You take off easy it works, but goose it quickly to pull out and it dies… let your foot off and it totally quits… keep it floored and it will flare up and take off.. then die again.. flare up.. die again.. let up a little and it usually keeps moving.. it will restart easy if it dies but it’s unnerving in traffic.. Hundreds of dollars down the tube.. It’s getting the carb swap. The biggest problem is the absolute shit quality of the parts you get these days. I’ve gotten shit out of the box before and I don’t feel like going back thru and buying yet another round of “new” parts.. at least I have no problem working with the quadrajet and old school HEI.. yes I’m that old.
That’s terrible. I respect that you haven’t given up on it yet. On mine I had to replace the computer, and that helped a lot. When the computer went bad, the transmission wouldn’t shift bad it sometimes had a high idle. That fix that problem. You could try getting a used Computer or chip off of eBay, but you have to make sure the chip is the exact right one for your truck. They have the model number stamped on it.
It sucks but it's either pay a mechanic a diagnostic fee to pinpoint the problem or just take the money it would cost you and buy those parts. Diagnostic fee is around 70$. Start with cheapest part first. Regardless, you will have a bunch of parts you won't have to replace for quite a while if you go that route before finding out the real problem.
My 94 sbc 350 has 322k original miles on the motor. Pretty sure it’s internal seals causing my issues but it runs kinda rough at idle but drives fine minus the occasional trans slip, which I’ve narrowed down to shift solenoids. Any suggestions? lol I’ve done the plugs n wires, timing job was done around 270k miles, new egr, cleaned throttle body, new fuel filter, new tps, lots of other work the motor just has never been rebuilt. It burns about a quart of oil every 800 miles or so with no obviously bad leaks externally. In park it idles at 450ish Rpms and in drive/reverse around 200? According to the Tach of course.
I have a 93 Chevrolet 2500 that blew a fuse to the windshield wipers and when I changed the fuse it will not start . The fuel pump will not come on any clues for helping me
My 1998 Silverado is doing the hesitation thing again and I fear it's the fuel pump again. I had one put in about 50,000 miles ago and it cost me nearly $1,000. I'll try the things you mentioned but I'm thinking these symptoms are the same as they were before.
You’re welcome. It seems like a simple problem, but it can be really hard to diagnose. I replaced almost everything before the truck ran right. I think the problem was the catalytic converter.
I'm having that problem as well. 225k miles. My theory is it's the fuel filter but if it still hesitant I will try other stuff before tackling the pump.
Just picked up a 2001 Silverado 1500 4x4 with only 70k on it and it,s super clean! Got this truck from a well known dealer here in Cleveland 1 owner truck with ext cab! The second day of driving the truck the front calipers started leaking and i took the truck back to the Dealership! They put all new brake lines and new brake rotors and calipers all the way around! On the 3,d day of driving the Truck the gas line started leaking at the fuel filter! Once again i returned the Truck to the Dealership and the replaced fuel lines from the tank to the fuel regulator! Including fuel filter! So after only a week of driving and not even putting 300 miles on the Truck the Transmission lines decided to start leaking =\ So once again back to the Dealership where they put all new Transmission lines in and flushed the system and top off the ac unit! At this point i,m ready to trade it in! But the dealership also put a set of new tires on it for me as well! So after all the new work on the truck it is driving like a new Truck again with the 4.8 liter engine that you could eat off of! Lesson learned here! Make sure you look at every line every brake line every gas line all lines with fluid running threw them before purchase!
Definitely. You want to make sure that you catch everything and knock the price down before you buy it. But now that that’s done, you have a great truck. That generation of truck is one newer than mine, and my dad has one that he’s Jevon for almost 20 years, and it is a great reliable and functional truck that you will love for a long time. With most you’ve used vehicles, you have to sort them out and repair things for the first year or so, and then they’re good after that.
I have a 1991 Chevy Z71 with 506,000 miles and drive it everyday still.my truck did that a couple of times and both times it was the EGR valve sticking,so I just replaced it for about $40 and was good to go.
In my case I’m pretty sure it was the catalytic converter plates, which had come loose and sometimes they were obstructing the exhaust, and other times that would rattle into position to let the exhaust flow freely. I would’ve replaced that first if me or my mechanic had figured it out.
Thanks for the videos! I can start the truck easy if it has been sitting but if I stop and go on a errand it it's hard top start. Plus I can smell gas when it is running(running rich maybe).ECM is bad. This is a 96 gmc with 5.7 v8. I have 248000 miles. Any advice would be great. Finally, don't know if it is from running rich but the truck shakes when idle. I put into park and the shaking stops.
These trucks are tricky. It could be the EGR valve is dirty. On mine one thing I didn’t mention in the video because I didn’t know about it yet was that it had an intake manifold leak. That’s pretty common on these trucks, so maybe some extra air is getting in there. Also, on my truck I think the main problem was that the Catalytic converter had gone bad and the plates in it were rattling around and sometimes obstructing exhaust flow.
Hi there I have a 89 Chevy Silverado C1500 the original 5.0 blew up so I built a new 5.7 and put it in now I have hesitation when I accelerate from a dead stop it is almost like it stumbles sometimes it stalls out the question I have is the ECM from the 5.0 the same programming for the 5.7 any help with this would be greatly appreciated I have been out of work for 9 months and just got it running
Yeeeah... I had a 93 gmc sierra. Had the same problems you were having and i don't know if it was the previous owner or not but noone put a fuel filter on it. Ended up costing me a whole lotta money in parts and in the end I sent her to the junkyard cause i couldn't spend the money on her anymore. She's still sitting there...
It's very frustrating. This truck ran terrible for a year and a half while I kept replacing parts. The most frustrating part was that I knew it was one simple thing that needed replacing, but I didn't know which thing. I ended up giving it to a mechanic, who spent a month trying different things until we got it sorted out, and it runs great now. In my case the main problems were the fuel pump and catalytic converter.
hoohoohoblin Yeah, I could never get mine figured out. I even had several mechanics take a look at it. Took the seat out of it as a souvenir for my first truck.
Don't have to drop fuel tank to get fuel pump out i found it's easier to tilt the bed and leaves ya with plenty of room to access the tank from the top. Just remove the 2 bolts on the driver side and run the 2 on passenger side almost completely out but not all the way then disconnect tail light electrical harness tilt bed up and put a block of wood between bed and frame.
I fixed it by replacing the intake and TB with an Edelbrock intake and a 800 cfm Q jet carb. Threw that damn crappy TB right into the trash along with the cat and factory exhaust and installed headers and glass packs. No computer crap anymore so an Accell HEI dist and wow is all the hesitation gone. And gets better mileage too.
@@hoohoohoblin That makes sense. We both had misfiring problems. I noticed steam and water coming out my tail pipe. I had to replaced the distributor cap and rotor. I later learned that if you drive your car to much when it's misfiring, it can ruin your catalytic converter. Thanks.
How did you cut your catalytic converters? I’m replacing my maf sensor tmmrw and if that’s not the issue then ima have to eliminate my catalytic converter.
I had somebody replace my catalytic converter. I still have to pass emissions in California with it. I think the problem was that it was all clogged up and old. It passes emissions and runs fine now.
Was it shaking or jerking bad when you accelerate? Recently my 1994 Chevy Silverado c/k1500 5.7 with a 350 started to shake bad when driving. It only happens around 3 gear and up. It’s hesitates and then also jerks really bad when I press down the gas pedal a certain bit. Specially around 40mph and up. At around 50-55 I’m kicking into over drive and this is where the problem is the worst. Cause at about 50 I can only press the pedal down so much to get more speed without the truck shaking real bad. If I accelerate easy and slow it doesn’t happen.
I have a question for you. Although I have not used the paperclip thing in the box under the dash to see which code the 'service engine soon' light says, my service engine soon light kept coming on and off so, using my limited skills, I replaced the oxygen sensor (which looked good and probably didn't need to be replaced) and that didn't help. Next, I replaced the EGR valve (which looked good and probably didn't need to be replaced) and the service engine soon light keeps coming on but doesn't stay on. Sometimes it doesn't come on at all. I am almost positive it isn't the brake switch so now I am at a loss. Do I replace the EGR solenoid and hope for the best or what? Any suggestions? I am not a mechanic by any stretch but not afraid to tackle some of these things. I can waste a few dollars here and there and still be ahead of the game if I compare to taking it to a shop somewhere and get charged $100 an hour or more. I am open to any ideas you might have.
This is a really tough one. Even if you take it to a mechanic, they might not be able to figure it out either. I generally start with the cheapest and most logical parts first and go forward. On my truck, I think the problem was the catalytic converter plates had broken loose and were sometimes obstructing the exhaust flow. Could also have been the fuel pump being weak.
Ok, but here's my issue. K1500 Heavy Half 5.7L Auto. Starts fine when cold, idles a little low and sometimes stalls. But when driving, after all is warmed up and hot. Loses power, like its running only on 3or4 cylinders. Stalls out, then won't restart until it cools off. Kinda like vapor lock is keeping the starter from rolling the engine over, or the battery is too weak to crank the engine. But after cooling, starts up and runs fine again. What's your take on that?
It could be the EGR valve getting stuck open. Sometimes if an ignition coil is going bad, it expands when it gets hot, and then the spark gets weak, but when it cools off, then it’s able to spark again. I’ve seen that happen on one of my motorcycles.
Question, what can it be when my truck sits overnight and or about 4 hours and it starts up, just to die.. but once it's warm, it runs great and doesn't turn off like it would when no warm enough.
My pops truck has the stumbling i.e. bucking after having a bad crankshaft sensor. So we replaced it cause we had no spark, we also replaced the camshaft sensor and a few other parts but we're tires of throwing money at it.
I have a 89 s10 pickup with a 2.5 liter engine and a manual transmission. Problem is it runs fine for about 15 to 20 minutes then it want to buck and carry on hesitate. Today when you put the clutch in it tried to die. The only parts I didn't install were the tps and map sensor. The fuel pump hanger assembly and tank are brand new. The brand new pump went bad in less than 30 days. I don't know what is causing it to run the way it does. The person i purchased truck from also replaced fuel pump. Why does my truck hate fuel pumps?
I just did a complete top end performance rebuild to my 94 raising compression, intake, cam, aluminium heads, true full duel exhaust, headers, fuel system upgrades, and a custom tuned Jet chip. I love these old trucks. It’s great to see other guys restoring and resurrecting them.
Let us know how long the bottom end holds up to that raised compression.
got a 91 k2500 with sm465 454 tbi gmt400 with c6p option, higher gvwr package
@@Kdog307 nice, I have upgraded to a built 383 stroker and a 670 carb
@@anthonyskorner4511 it didn’t lol
I just built a 5.7 350 small block for my truck was not able to put any goodies on it just a stock motor but I absolutely love my truck and will never get rid of it. 89 Chevy and I even have the color matched Chevy jacket that was an option when you bought a new Chevy truck in the 80s
TBI was from '87 to '95. I have 1 of each. My '95 runs fantastic but my '87 needed help. The previous owner did ZERO preventive maintenance. I bought the non-working truck from his widow. The engine looked like a chocolate milkshake inside as did the rear end. I pressure tested the cooling system and it held 20 PSI for 1/2 an hour and the needle never moved. I had already pulled the valve covers and found a worn through exhaust rocker arm on #8 cylinder. I cleaned the engine out with Brake clean and put in new rockers and 5 quarts of oil and a new oil filter. Still no start. Removed the original factory fuel filter and it was plugged solid. Replaced the fuel filter and she started right up. I did replace the TPS also and it made a big difference. My fuel pump also went out and I replaced it so now she runs decent. Thanks for the video and take care.
You’re welcome. These are great old trucks.
The first TBI came out in 89 because the 88 model year was still carbureted
@@terrybrown797 You are 110% incorrect. I have a 1987 Chevy R10 that has TBI FROM THE FACTORY! 1986 was the last year for Pick up trucks to have a carburetor. Do some research and educate yourself. You must be a snowflake. You sternly believe in things that are not so. I was an auto mechanic for more than 20 years. I have rebuilt HUNDREDS of carburetors, including feedback Quadrajets, which happen to be my specialty. I know the difference between a carburetor and TBI fuel injection. Apparently you don't.
Hesitation can be caused by the ISC, the pump, the EGR, the TPS, the fuel filter, the MAF sensor, clogged injectors, or bad plugs.
Great info. Thank ya'!
Just got another 99 Tahoe it had sat for a few months when accelerating it hesitates a bit not major could it need just a tune up??
I will look into the egr valve being stuck. But the cat is brand new. installed November of last year. Today same thing happened today. Runs great great for 15 minutes and then starts to run really bad. I hardly made it home it was acting up so bad. The engine was really shaking. I thought computers were suppose to make things better. Can't the ecm see the engine isn't running right?
altlandf I was told I need a catalytic converter that’s what popped up on the reader as well..
@@altlandf ecm can only see the problem it can't fix anything on it's own
I changed the throttle position sensor, the plugs, distributor cap and wires, injectors were fine, changed the fuel filter. Checked the fuel pressure and it was fine but after none of these fixes worked I decided to change the fuel pump. That was the problem. The pressure was fine when I had it in park or even in drive but I’m assuming when I would drive it the pressure would drop. Hope my comment helps anyone save the headache I went through.
What was your symptoms? I have chnaged just about everything past few months. Idek what to do anymore. Worried about pulling this darn pump out cause nothing worked for me so far. Seems like when the truck is cold it runs a little better
@@Drayelam21I’m in the same boat I have a 1990 gmc sierra with a 350 in it I replaced the fuel pump spark plugs spark plug wires distributor cap and even fuel pump I drive the truck and with any kind of acceleration it bogs and turns off
@@mr.hellboat6354try the idle air control and the egr valve.
What was the fuel pressure? Mine is around 50-52 psi under load. Wondering if it’s my problem
Oh my God it is almost like I wrote this. Except I haven't changed the pump I've changed everything else under the damn hood. I put a new pump in it back last July. I'm going to feel like a jackass if that's the problem
Fuel filter every 1000 gallons ~ 14K miles. Fuel pump every 80K. TPS 50-80K, Clean harness ground at thermostat bolt, clean or replace EGR valve every 80K. Check torque on TBI, make sure no vacuum leaks including EGR hose. Tune-up interval highly variable, prob 50K max.
Good info. Thanks.
Foolish parts replacer comment
@@Watchout1010 4 year veteran GM design engineering and retired drag racer.
@@latrogeniwile58 have seen fuel pumps,egr valves, sensors last over 200,000 miles without creating any issues-IAC motors get gummed up,egr valves get carbon buildup-I dont replace parts due to recommended intervals-transmissions now have lifetime fluid-nope.
@@latrogeniwile58 if I owned a dealership-recommend maintenance for profit-aint that the game?
I appreciate all the hard work and effort you went to. I bet you learned a lot.
Thanks! I did.
Before changing a bunch of parts, get a fuel pressure gage and screw it on the Schrader valve in the stainless steel fuel rail. Turn the key on (don't start engine) you should hear the fuel pump come on, helps to remove the fuel cap to hear better. You should see the gage go to 60 pounds. Turn the key off and see if it stays there (if it leks down change the fuel pressure regulator)
some dont have that valve
Mine is an 89 the first year for the TBI there are no Schrader valve fuel lines go directly into the throttle body so in order to check fuel pressure you have to take off the return line on the throttle body have to get an old-school fuel pressure tester that screws into the throttle body and into the fuel return line to check fuel pressure if you are checking fuel pressure at the fuel pump you can do that where the fuel filter is located just simply remove the fuel filter and hook up your fuel pressure rental tool that you can get at any local auto parts
There are no fuel rails on these older trucks
Tbi motors stock will only make 8 to 13psi of fuel pressure. Also these tbi systems are designed to bleed off pressure fairly quickly. So that's normal. Figured I would put some accurate info on this old thread.
my 1994 has just turned 245.048 miles ! this is one helluva great truck- thanks CHEVY !!!! BTW- IT ALWAYS RUNS COOL AS A CUCUMBER AROUND 120-140* NO OIL LEAKS OR SMOKING
It was designed to run forever with little bit of maintenance.
Mine just turned 201. She had the hesitation and then that turned in to a has fuel and cranks but no start issue. Anyone know why?
my 91 carfaxed at over 450,000 at 455xxx when the odometer quit 12 years ago
A sticking EGR valve will cause rough idle and part throttle hesitation too.
Could it also cause it to die when i start it up
Yep. I just replaced that today. Tons more power before it sputtered and hesitated a lot
M.A.P. sensor?
Got 290K on mine and we're keeping it alive! I'm so confident in its longevity I just bought 4 nice tires for it!
It's good to keep these trucks going!
Awesome truck man , thanks for that rattling noise tip I’ve been searching for months on how to remedy that …
follow the nois bud
Slight hesitation at 45-50 mph similar to it feeling like a misfire can be caused by the transmission trying to shift into overdrive. The feel of it trying to shift from 3rd to 4th unsuccessfully feels like a miss and can lead you to look in an entirely wrong direction
Barbara Todd this is my problem... how’d you fix
Adjust the TV cable if you’ve got one
To adjust TV cable mostly common on your 700 R4 Transmission is to locate the end of the TV cable on top of the intake manifold towards the driver side rear of your intake manifold where the cable comes into the bracket there is a half circle button on the side when you press that button in it releases the caller on the TV cable with the button pressed push the colour of the TV cable back towards the firewall release button and press accelerator to Full Throttle that's all you need to do to set your TV cable. Unless you are installing an aftermarket TV cable then you will have to set your length before setting TV cable. Hope this helps somebody I had to do it on my 89 Chevy Silverado C1500 5.7 L V8
After 2 fuel pumps I got sick of mine and cut a whole in the bed and added a hinge
That works.
🇺🇸 ZACHARY WRIGHT 2024 🇺🇸
Been there done that 😂🤌👌
Scale 1-10 how easy is doing to that job . I need a new Gas float
Lol I had 6 sn95 mustangs, did 2 pumps, same trick for that car lol
You mentioned the distributor cap not sitting level and half not running right. Sounds like the cap screws were not all engaged. it is tight back there.
I have a 98 Silverado with over 257K miles and STILL going !
Mine works great after we replaced the distributor. I think the old cap was on there crooked.
The oem distributor base is plastic so its very common for the base to crack and then your cap does not do its job very well
Boy, that truck looks nice. My 03 is rusted to death. I refuse to wash it. I might wash off something I need.
Yes. Any truck from that era can’t go through the car wash because half of the paint will come come off.
So is my 98 but I do wash it
Use warm water and dab lightly with cotton balls to dry, I'm convinced the paint is the only thing holding the body together on my 90', 96', and 99' !
😅😅😅😅
From what I heard, these trucks have galvanized steel body panels.
Chevrolet #1 in my book
+Drive Chevy's You are correct, sir!
Drive Chevy's black smoke coming out the tail pipe
2001 Toyota Tundra here. Never had to replace any of this crap! Rust free truck in Tennessee!
saysbadman have you had it since new ?
Good. Video thank you helpful.
2:57 is a fuel filter.
Fuel pump is on top of the tank
It's a whole easier to lift bed up than pull the tank, loosen all the mounts and pick up drivers side.
Thank you
Ron Townsend Nope. Waaay easier to drop the tank.
If your bed mounting bolts are rusted they will just strip out. Been there done that.
@@joetroutt7425 Get new bolts, that's all.
@@rontownsend8235 oh yeah, that's it. Grind the ones you can reach and snap the heads off the others you can't with grinder. Then pray they don't snap off in the threaded sockets welded to the bed trying to remove those. No thanks I'll just drop the tank.
If you have a fuel pump issue on these trucks and you want to replace it easier don't drop the tank. Just tilt the bed. It's really simple there's a ton of videos on how to do it and you have full access to that fuel pump.
Thanks. You’re right about that.
This same thing happened to me it ended up being my fuel pump . I had people tell me it was a blown head gasket to the timing belt/ chain . They didn't know shit lol
I think that's my problem
I have a sneaky suspicion that is my problem as well. I have a 1996 Chevy truck with 525,000 miles on it. I am going to check into that first - and yes I have changed it out before many years ago.
adding a cam shaft will give you the power you need and you can still pass smog.
What kind ?
I guess im asking randomly but does anyone know of a way to get back into an Instagram account..?
I was stupid forgot my login password. I would appreciate any tricks you can offer me
@Roland Carlos Instablaster :)
@Harvey Declan i really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and Im trying it out now.
Takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Harvey Declan it worked and I now got access to my account again. I am so happy:D
Thanks so much, you really help me out!
My 95 is nowhere near that good of shape. But seeing one, I sure would like to buy another 95 in mint shape. Such a beautiful body style
Me too. Mine has 439000 miles
Me 2 I got a 95 GMC Sierra 1500 4 wheel drive
I have a 96 shortbed single cab with fresh paint no rust
My 94 suburbans paint is cooked from the heat. Would love to get it repainted someday. 183k miles.
I want this square body extended cab Silverado especially just like the one in the video navy bye with the two tone silver and alloy wheel damn looks fresh ! Z71 off-road suspension and a leveling kit, BFG all terrains and 20% tints all around that would be so sick! Maybe a 5.3 ls swap altho I really love the 350 better low end torque and sounds amazing classic, with a bigger cam and flow master dual exhaust with headers and a performance tune damnnn
Love my 96 k1500. Just replaced the fuel pump and filter and boom the stutter went away. Thanks for the video
You’re welcome
I have a 1990 Silverado Extended Cab with a 5.7 T.B.I engine. She has been going strong for 30 years ! However, I will be up grading the engine, drive train and rear end. You're correct, they DON'T make em' like this anymore.
Still running: "Chevy Tough" ! 👍👊
These are great trucks, and reasonably cheap to keep running, especially when compared with buying a brand new one.
My 92 has no power. I didn't know the issue and I suspected the fuel pump. Someone told me it wasn't but this just confirms it. Thanks for the video
You’re welcome.
What it was with my vortec 5.7 when i swapped out the old 305, was the spark plugs, wires, and distributor. I replaced the distributor with a billet one and replaced the plugs and wires. The symptoms were around 45-55 mph in 4th overdrive and tcc lockup it would chug and shutter and cut out and i initially thought it was a bad torque converter but apon testing the coil and inspecting it i determined ut was bad. It had pitting and heat damage and a spark created from it would not jump a big enough gap.
I'm having the same problems I notice the coil looks pretty old I also cant move my egr valve diaphragm so will replace those two and see I have a 90 caprice with tbi 305
And yes, check the EGR valve for sticking
I replaced my MAP sensor just today. Took on a test drive and it seemed to fix my hesitation problem. My truck would hesitate when trying to keep a steady 25 or steady 35 mph. I will give feedback in about a week to see if it's truly fixed.
Let me know please I have a 95 C1500. Started to hesitate today and died when I came to a stop sign
Still hesitating. Unfortunately it did not fix my issue
Went down this same road with my 96 Tahoe. Replaced fuel pump, every sensor, ECM, ignition, and all new distributor. Ended being a leaky fuel injection so replaced it with latest AC Delco model. Runs like a top now but just had to replace my cats because they burned up in the process.
Just for note. The old poppet style injectors were notorious for going out so for people chasing a gremlin and replacing every sensor I would recommend pulling the intake and looking there. But if you haven't replace the injection at this point it's must. The new style is much better.
broooo I have changed all those parts besides the cat so far! I feel youuuu, it's like a combo of all of it that don't throw any lights
I feel mine is injector 😅
A quick note on changing pumps on at least GM conventional beds remove tail gate, remove bed bolts put piece of card board or scrap carpet between right side rear bed and bumper end and lift bed from left side up like opening trunk,put milk crate under wheel well rest on tire. Fuel tanks is in open site easy to get at no trying to deal with heavy tanks that quit with fuel in them. I've done this 3 times on my own 2000 z71 Silverado. I can do this in about 30 minutes by myself. The first pump I put in I did the remove the tank that was full with 26 gals of fuel,way to muck work, do the previous version much less work.
Good stuff. Thanks.
I need a video of this
@@marshall8092 what he said 👈🏼
I just picked one up for 1500 it's very clean besides rusty quarter panels it hesitates a little these are all minor costing fixes though that will give me something to do on my day off work today.Thanks!
That’s a good deal. Once you get everything sorted out, these are really great trucks.
Fuel pumps are fairly cheap for these. Can install yourself easier than you think. Check the float assembly wires and connections while in there.
I had a weird hesitation AND Misfire too. 1997 GMC Suburban K1500. It would hiccup at all speeds. Ran several tests, didnt find anything. So we began an intense process: changed, spark plugs, wires and cap and rotor= still hesitated. Changed EGR valve=still hesitated. Checked all vacuum lines, no dice. Cleaned any valves or connections to crank case, nothing. Changed fuel filter, nada. Changed the old spider injector to the upgraded one with the wires at the tips. That helped, but still had hiccups. Changed battery when it died. It ended up being the distributor. The gear teeth at the bottom had worn down. Had to replace the whole thing and install it wrong by it being advanced by one tooth in order for it to work at 15 degrees. It took months but the result was all that new stuff.
My experience was very much the same. Sometimes you have to fire up the parts cannon and just keep replacing things until something fixes the problem. But now I have a lot of new parts on the engine. On my truck I think it was a clogged catalytic converter that sometimes let air through and sometimes didn’t.
I have a similar hiccup. I’m so frustrated.
My truck has a new fuel injectors, fuel pump, fuel filter, spark plugs, plug wires, ignition coil, and ignition control module. I put all that in. The truck was surging. The new fuel pump fixed that, but it still cuts out at 2000-3000 rpms. The only thing I can think of now is replacing the distributor. Or maybe it is the EGR, MAP sensor, vacuum leak, or throttle position sensor.
Geez i wish mine looked like yours. Excellent example of a clean OBS.
Thanks
My 94 has 303K+ miles, and has this hesitation, sometimes bad enough to stall the engine. Thanks for the hints on where to look.
You’re welcome. I hope you figured it out. Sometimes it can be a combination of things.
It much easy to take the bed loose to replace fuel pump
If you live in a state where they don't use salt on the road. People in michigan would rather drop the tank or cut a hole in the bed.
I live in the salt belt and still unbolt the bed. Start spraying the bolts a week before hand. If your truck is rusty its rusty, your tank straps will be rusty too. It's really fast to go under with an impact and rattle those bolts out, just loosen the last two and jack the bed up like a dump box.
1993, 5.7l, C1500. Starting this last Fall (2022), upon heat soak, the engine/transmission would intermittently drop out. This also happened occasionally when hitting a pothole or crossing a bridge expansion joint. So, over the mild Winter whenever weather was nice enough, I started a detailed inspection of the wiring... I cut out and refreshed three highly corroded ground lugs in addition to repairing sketchy-looking terminal end wiring at a couple of sensors. Also, the "convenience center" terminal block along with the fuel pump relay grounds were disassembled, cleaned, greased with dielectric paste, and reassembled.
However, none of my findings appeared to be a true smoking gun and the engine/transmission drop-out remained. I did have the truck up on jack stands so I could inspect and replace the taillight wire ground in the rear. The fuel pump ground *_should_* and was okay since I recently dropped the gas tank to refresh the brake and fuel lines.
While the truck was up on the jack stands, I traced the transmission control wiring harness looking for pinches, problems, and perforations. Then, I reached up to check the harness connector plug into the transmission itself. The plug was out about half it's completely seated distance. Well, a connector barely seated would certainly be a good suspect for an intermittent heat soak and jarring roadway hiccup problem...
Being thirty years old, there is no longer any click left in the plastic harness connector. I drilled a couple of holes in the metal guard protecting the harness connector point from brush and safety-wired the terminal in-place on the transmission.
So far, the drop-out has not made itself noticed again.
Check that harness connector at the transmission! It's a quick and cheap thing to verify!
Excellent work! Sometimes these things are really hard to track down.
1995 Chevy C1500, 4.3 liter V6, 80k miles!. Truck began surging, missing and hesitation after warm up. Had something similar happen 5 years ago. Truck would start, go a block or so and die.
Started it back up, same thing, a few blocks then konk out!
Had it towed to my mechanic who replaced the fuel pump, problem fixed.
Fast forward to the last couple of weeks, truck started fine, 5 minutes later it was choking, wheezing, stumbling and dying, no power, off idle!
Thought it was gonna be another fuel pump as I don't use the truck much and figured maybe the gas went to kerosene or maybe the pickup pump sock pulled up some dirt or rust from inside the 30 year old tank.
I probably only put 1000 miles on it over the past 5 years and couldn't believe the fuel pump needed replacement again? I read this and other OBS Chevy threads and decided to try swapping out a few sensors. Changed out the TPS, MAP, Temperature sensor and Idle Air Control valve... No change. No harm no foul, since they were all 30 years old original parts!
Next up the
Up- Stream Oxygen sensor as the problem occured after warm up and that sensor sends from 0.1 to 1.0 volts back to the ECU after exhaust and an internal heating element brought the sensor temp to 600° sending a voltage back within that .01-1.0voltage range. As I understand it, low voltage indicates a lean exhaust condition and a higher voltage indicates a rich condition. So, I figured if the sensor was defective and possibly sending a low milli-voltage back to the ECU causing it to richen, or in this case over-riched the air/gas mixture causing the engine to flood and konk out!
I could not get the 30 year old oxygen sensor out as it was seized to the welded on bung.
I tried MAPP gas torch, blaster penetrant, 7/8" deep socket with breaker bar, pipe wrench with dum dum hammer but no good, it wouldn't budge, not even a thread.
There wasn't much room on that header pipe which was just in front of the Catalytic Converter where both header pipes covered and I didn't want to take the header pipes off if I could avoid it to weld on a new bung for a new sensor.
Instead I found a "no weld" bung kit which consisted of a curved 3" metal plate with a threaded hole to accept the new sensor, an exhaust gasket and a couple of 6" radiator hose clamps. Idea being, drill a hole in the pipe to coincide with the curved mounting plate's, hole, attach the plate and gasket to the pipe via the 2 radiator clamps and eliminate the need to weld a new bung to the pipe... on my back!
It worked as designed, installed the sensor and reconnected the wire harness. Squirmed out from under the truck which was up on ramps and fired up the engine... 5 minutes later it was a fail, same conditions as before, no change!.
Figured the Oxygen sensor wasn't the problem and so I loaded the parts Canon with a TPS, MAPP, AND IAC sensors. Swapped them in one at a time, discharged the system caps after each try by disconnecting the battery and put the headlight switch on to bleed off any residual voltage to reset the ECU , ( no codes thrown by the way, ever), result... Fail!
No change whatsoever? Some folks suggested a plugged gas tank vent but removing the gas cap made no difference, checked all the vacuum lines, EGR valve, injectors for cone spray pattern but all good? Going nuts now like everybody else and then it hit me... what if the new oxygen sensor was also bad, causing the same conditions as the original O2 oxygen sensor. I was at wits end but since I neglected to bench test the new oxygen sensor before installing it, well anything is possible right, especially for non-OEM replacement parts!
Put the truck back up on the ramps, detached the new sensor's wiring harness, slithered back out from under the truck, cranked Christine (wife's nickname for the truck) up, it idled at 800 as usual but incredibly it stayed there, roick solid like a sewing machine!
Drove it for 30-40 minutes to get it hot and not a single misstep! Ran like a veritable clock!
Problem solved for under $50! God, I love that truck, err Christine that is!
I hope this helps another OBS Truck fan! 💪
Well, that’s always how it goes. I’m glad you figured out the problem, and shared it with everyone. Sometimes you have to replace everything before you figure out the problem. That definitely happened to me.
My 94 blazer is doing this right now I'm sure my lifters are going to but this was one big thing I couldn't figure out to save my life
I have a 1993 c1500 chevy. And I replaced almost everything on my truck and its cheaper to fix it rather then to get a new pickup lol. Unfortunately my body is rusting =( but I. Also planning to fix that too. True what you said....its a real pickup 👍🏻
When my engine blew up everyone told me to just buy a new vehicle but once you have driven an old Chevy truck there is nothing else you are willing to drive. 1989 Chevy Silverado C1500 single cab long bed 5.7 L 350. old school Chevy for life
who's got $50'ooo for a new truck
As far as the fuel pump goes I have found out after 4 or 5 fuel pumps that it is easier to take off the bed it's only four bolts and you have good access to your tank without getting any gas on you. Just slide the bed back far enough to access the fuel pump and your good to go
OBS 88-98 (2000 3/4 & 1 ton) trucks are the last good truck's GM made in my opinion. Early LS before the actice fuel management was alright, but had weak rear differentials
It's amazing how expensive a repair can be without a few steps of diagnostic effort. I hate to say this but most qualified mechanics would have found that diagnosis within an hour, the lack of codes notwithstanding. It takes 5 minutes to measure exhaust backpressure, and the story was typical, almost diagnostic. It would have been easy to exclude the fuel pump and fuel filter with pressure testing under load at the Schraeder valve, and even bad fuel injectors would have shown fuel trim clues. I agree with you about these trucks. They have a classic, timeless design and they age surprisingly well if rust doesn't take them first.
You are right about that! I threw a lot of parts at it before I took it to a mechanic.
I have a 2000 GMC Savana 3500 with a bogging down problem. She runs great but every once in a while chugs like shes choking and I can barely move and almost get stranded. I put her in park, shut her off then start her up and shes fine for a bit. Can't figure it out. I've done plugs, wires, fuel filter, replaced leaky hoses, etc
spelunkerd I'm surprised hoohoohoblin hasn't bought a odb1 Bluetooth module to be able to watch stats or run data logging.
Gus Ricciuti check your IAC valve it's probably sticking. You can take it out and clean it with some throttle body cleaner before buying a new one. Also test your connecters with a multimeter or simply add dielectric grease to it and connect it back up and see how it runs. Make sure your throttle plates aren't gunked up so clean them. Check if your EGR still has suction if not replace it. Check your TPS as well. And last but not least your O2 sensor. I'm almost positive it's your IAC valve though! Disconnect your TPS and see how it drives.. If it drives better it's your IAC or TPS.. TPS is being affected by your IAC because your ECM is misreading air flow!
Gus Ricciuti sorry just seen your year and model.. Try cleaning or replacing your MAF sensor.
If you have this problem first thing to check is if it is runnin rich if its doin that that means your flooding the throttle body the main cause of that is your o2 sensor and that is located in the cats
I cut a hole above the fuel pump and change them through it, Then I put a metal plate over the hole.
Thanks.
I’ve never had a cat go bad because I always cut them off 😂
+Rusty Shackleford That is a much cheaper solution than buying a new one.
After new distr. which was bad. Still my truck missed on a load, next I put new spark plugs. Still problem next I bought a engine temp sensor. Yep still missed on a load. I was ready to get rid of my truck. Ngext day I checked on the web, a guy pulled the hose off the EGR and plug the hose My truck is running well now. I had duel exhaust wonder if I even need the EGR. going to drive a couple days and my buy a new EGR. It worked guys!
egr valve not bleeding through the bypass was/is a common things on them. first place I go when there's an off idle/low throttle stumble/miss, yet idle fine and run wide open. ;)
Rusty Shackleford lmao right who needs cats
david Huber what do you mean you unplugged and plugged the hose? You didn't replace or clean anything? My truck is having the same problem
yeah, I have a 99 suburban... same deal except fuel pump - it's sitting in my basement. It never took a crap on me while driving but ran like shite for a good year or two until I replaced cat, sparks and plugs, dist cap and fuel injection spider which was a huge pain in the butt ... honestly, just replacing cat alone helped tremendously
I think the catalytic converter was the main problem on my truck as well.
I have 95 Chevy Tahoe with the same problem. I unplugged the egr valve and it stopped hesitating but check engine light code 32 came up. This code has three different interpretations depending on year and model. It basically says that there is something wrong with egr system. So I decided to put a vacuum gauge on the egr solenoid to see if it had a leak. I put it on the solenoid and was not getting a vacuum leak there. But, I cracked the throttle a little bit and then I had a hard shot of vacuum on the gauge. What is going is that the ecm is calling for the egr valve to be opened right at cracking the throttle. When you get passed this point of throttle the vacuum drops and the valve shuts and it acts normal from there out until you crack the throttle again. the only thing that will fix this is a vacuum delay valve that helps delay the egr valve from opening too soon and while you have greater engine rpm to handle the egr valve opening. Take note, the solenoid will not open the egr valve until you get to full operating temperature. This is why you truck doesn't hesitate when first started.
Interesting. Thanks. On my 4.0 chevy V6 in my van, the EGR valve would get carbon buildup, causing it to run rough. Cleaning it fixed the problem. I hadn't thought about a vacuum delay valve.
I have a 97 5.7 that's rough when its cold but when it warms up it seems to be fine. Any idea what the problem is?
When your truck is cold it is in the close loop phase. The computer sets the idle speed and fuel mixture until it reaches operating temperature. My best bet would be to check spark plugs and wires, fuel filter and distributor cap and components. Good luck.
Thanks.
now and then i get a 32 and on my 92 astro...cleaned EGR valve and passage and new solenoid..runs great no stalling etc...i just have up. i do not need emissions inspection anyway.
Also EGR valve, O2 censor.
PCV valve
I have a 94 K1500. Had the rattle. Replaced cats and it ran good for a while. A year later moved 6000 miles away and drove with most of our stuff in a trailer. Was fine for about 4000 miles into the trip. Then it started again. Come to find out the throttle body had a hairline fracture in it and was pulling too much air through it. Ecu couldn't compensate for it. Check engine light never came on. Btw...my 94 is the same color blue and silver.
That must have been a tough one to diagnose. I wonder if you could JB Weld the crack.
Going through the same thing with my 95 Suburban right now. Replaced throttle position sensor, fuel pump, map sensor, oxygen sensor and catalytic converter. Cleaned the throttle body and injectors. Checked vacuum lines, etc. Runs good at high rpm, dies for no apparent reason when pulling up to stop signs/lights, or sometimes while just sitting and idling. Seems like it wouldn't run well at high rpm if it was a fuel filter problem? Going to clean the egr valve next. Newer plugs and wires, no missing or rough idle. No check engine code. If the egr valve doesn't work, next stop is the shop - tired of not being able to drive it. Glad to hear thoughts from anyone who knows about this issue.
It might be the EGR valve. Mine got stuck on my Astro van, and it wouldn’t idle until I cleaned it. I also had the ECU computer go bad on my truck and had to replace it. It was idling crazy and the transmission was shifting it really high RPMs, but changing the ECU computer and chip fixed it.
Sometimes the CAS (Crank Angle Sensor) can cause that.
sounds like distributor to me
@@cj8172 Those didn't come out on the Suburban until 1996 - mine doesn't have one.
Update: Turned out to be the MAP sensor, which means that two new ones I bought online from Amazon were defective. I stopped by an old auto repair business in Table Rock, NE, explained what was going on, and the owner went into the back room, came out a minute later with a used MAP sensor, said, "Try this". I explained I already tried two new ones, and he said to try it anyway, so I did. Check engine light went away and runs perfect ever since. Too late to return the defective ones of course, since I had spent several months trying to fix this *&^$*#@ thing. Half dozen different mechanics between NE and CA couldn't figure it out - this guy, a couple minutes. Sitzman Auto Repair, Table Rock, NE
Thank you for posting this video..very informative.
You ever change the EGR valve, my 91 gmc needed when it gave me problems with idling and shutting off in reverse
Yes. I made this video about it. In my case, it didn’t make much difference because the problem was something else. You can also take off the EGR valve and cleaned it out if it’s not working rather than buying a new one. How To Replace The EGR Valve On A GM 350 V8 Engine ua-cam.com/video/3DwDBIRrtso/v-deo.html
HOLY FAWK!!!! Iam in the exact same boat and this video might have saved what left of my hair
Thanks. I hope one of these things helps fix your problem.
I have a 94,only paid $1000 for her w/136k on the motor,1 owner.. truck is a reliable good truck,and I love it,but starting to have these minor issues and replacing minor stuff here and there.. just replaced my alternator 2 weeks ago but now I'm getting a surging idle w/rough acceleration after its warm and only while driving,noticed it would surge when I'd come to a stop(light,stop sign etc),I just noticed exhaust fumes coming out right around the tail end of the catalytic converter and that rattle like mentioned.. I was going to replace the spark plugs,distributor cap,ejectors(with Delco Spyder Injection instead of Center Point Injection),put on the Throttle Body spacer I bought,and a Jet Chip.. for the most part she's a good truck,hasn't left me stranded,but I just started having that idling issue while driving ,in park idle it's fine,neutral and pressing the gas its fine,just happens while I'm driving(bad acceleration),in drive stopped at a light it surges like almost stall then wants to take off then wants to stall,then Service Engine Soon came on then back off.. a weird issue I've never experienced before
I have a 93 silverado 5.7 ran fine until I used spray injector cleaner now it hesitate when I take off I already replaced egr map sensor throttle position sensor and the idle air sensor didn't solve the problem any ideas?
I had this problem! Changed everything. Last thing i did fixed it. Cheapest thing I could do. fuel filter. Fuel pressure was good. Under power hesitation. Change the filter first cheap and easy.
Always try the cheapest easiest thing first!
Not a mechanic, but a swap out artist.
Exactly
Most of us are, it's why we are here
My truck doesn't have a catalytic converter straight pipe with headers.
Then you'll never have any exhaust restriction issues!
hoohoohoblin...... yeah I do have Restriction but you how it goes. I fixed the problem on my truck, it was Map Sensor connector. Now it runs Great, I'm just going to put some other sensors it will be good.
Mine doesn't either the problem I'm haveing is the idle is to high changed the idle air control valve and the tps and still chokes out when started until rpms drop below 1000 and is started late shifting I'm suspecting the map sensor but honestly I'm kinda lost I'm starting to feel like I'm just replaceing till i get the right one mine is a 1994 3/4 ton 4×4 with the 5.7 auto trans with over drive
@Devon Pennartz it does I'm thinking at this point it could be my shift solenoids in the valve body in my transmission if you pull the pan there right there side by side. I've read if they get clogged it can cause all kinds of issues. Let me know what you come up with id be very interested to know.
@Scott Lovell the 4l60e has a bad problem with the 1 to 2 accumulator and the 3 to 4 accumulator GM put plastic pistons in them and they dont hold up very long. Mine shifts from 1 to 2nd about 25mph and then 2nd to 3rd around 45 but when it get up in the rpms at normal driving conditions it erraticly fires. I also have rich conditions.
miss my 97 Sierra, I had hesitation issues, bought a 2003 Saturn ion, kept the truck. But my dad who owned it traded it towards a Nissan ultima, only got $500. God kicking my ass after that.
Sometimes it’s hard to figure these problems out. Somebody got a good deal on your old truck.
Laughing and crying with you, damn!!
I just had my heads done on my 94 silverado and the truck hasn't been right since. I replaced the maf sensor, ignition module and o2 sensor. Then the codes read egr valve and selonoid. When I went to replace the selonoid I noticed the mechanic had hooked the vacuum line up to the vent. I hooked it up right and the truck ran great that day but went back to hesitating the next day.
I know this video is old, but that is a nice truck. It could be worse, I had a 97 Z71 short bed with the usual P0300 code, and my 96 is doing it now. It's the plastic distributor housing causing the distributor shaft to wobble. The fix is the MSD distributor with the aluminum housing.
Thanks. At some point I had the distributor replaced recently. We did that we were trying to figure out what was wrong. I’ve heard that they can go bad.
I was messing with the egr valve and it seems to move freely. I had order a vacuum switch because I broke it. The cat is brand new as the entire exhaust system. Thank you for your help.
You’re welcome
Your distributer was higher than it is now? That means it wasnt fully seated. Im surprised you even had oil pressure
Given that it's mostly run by a computer, I know that it's possible to spend thousands while a mechanic replaces parts the computer tells him are suspect. Seldom does it help, and not for long if it does. Better to take the time like in this video and replace what you can by yourself. I would like to find a Silverado specialist who can get a feel for what needs to be replaced and has the shop and tools to do it. Not just chase vague computer read outs. I think it's time to change my CC, that's where the rattling is probably coming from. I couldn't find it. Thanks for great upload.
You’re welcome. I understand how frustrating this stuff is. I wish I knew someone who was a wizard and could point to the exact problem. I ended up replacing a whole bunch of parts, and then taking it to a local mechanic who made a bunch of random guesses as well and replaced a bunch of parts. It is running right now though. It better, because almost everything is new.
My chevy express (2005) pulls back like the brake is on while my foot is on the gas. I'm afraid it will be something like the differential? Or maybe wheel barrings?
My 95 has a lifter tapping in it right now🤦🏼♀️ Hopefully getting her fixed tomorrow
Mine also
Hey I’ve got a 1988 GMC Sierra with 5.7 the original engine has been remanufactured to gm spec’s. I’ve added upgraded air filter stainless shorty headers new new value covers and installed dual exhaust with flowmaster super 10. Been running great the last few weeks it’s been skipping on accelerations and when climb feels sluggish. Checked the plugs some needed to be recalibrated and were a little dark . Cleaned them recalibrated reinstalled. Runs better but there is still hesitation. Any ideas what I should check?
Honestly my problem with my truck was the rotor in the distributor cap.! Was eight up and then she started running great.! Nice truck I love the Z71
Thanks. These are great trucks. I replaced the distributor and cap And rotor along with everything else. I know the old distributor seemed like it was bent, and the rotor wasn’t going around in a perfect circle.
Mines been hesitating for years but I just ignore it but kinda wanna get it fixed. I think I might replace the TPS since I’ve already replaced the fuel pump and filter. Was also thinking about doing the distributor as well. Thanks for the great videos
You’re welcome. On this truck I’m pretty sure the problem was the catalytic converter. I think the plates had gotten loose, so sometimes they would block the exhaust flow, and other times they would bounce around and the exhaust would be able to get out. After I put a new catalytic converter in it, it runs great.
When you decided to change the catalytic converter did it smell like rotten eggs? I keep reading about it smelling like rotten eggs if it goes bad
Yeah I forgot to mention I don't know how many miles do you have but it should last forever I'm in original owner I bought my truck brand new I live in Arizona there's no rust nothing's wrong with the whole truck it's perfect original engine and transmission and I'm at 443000 Miles and going strong....
Mine is pretty low mileage compared to yours. I guess that means I can drive it for the next hundred years. These things are built to last!
Update I just did 500,000 the engines still all original the transmission started slipping in 4 th gear at 467,000
so I had the transmission rebuilt. My truck's running great I love it hope yours is still around😊
I have a 92 c2500, 350 tbi. The parts cannon has been fired many times.. every last part has been changed down to the exception of the brain itself and the injectors.. fuel pump changed out, filter changed. New CTS, TPS… new Air Idle Control valve.. entire new distributor and coil. New plugs and wires.. new O2 sensor.. new MAP sensor… I completely rebuilt the TBI unit, including rebuilding the fuel pressure regulator.. puts out12 psi.. new gaskets for tbi including base gasket.. grounds cleaned and checked.. Vacuum lines/leaks checked.. looked for intake leaks… I’ve even replaced the EGR electronic vacuum/valve part.. Set timing to exact factory spec… everything. I’ve even replaced the catalytic converter, thinking the original 250k unit was plugged… I freaking give up. You take off easy it works, but goose it quickly to pull out and it dies… let your foot off and it totally quits… keep it floored and it will flare up and take off.. then die again.. flare up.. die again.. let up a little and it usually keeps moving.. it will restart easy if it dies but it’s unnerving in traffic.. Hundreds of dollars down the tube.. It’s getting the carb swap. The biggest problem is the absolute shit quality of the parts you get these days. I’ve gotten shit out of the box before and I don’t feel like going back thru and buying yet another round of “new” parts.. at least I have no problem working with the quadrajet and old school HEI.. yes I’m that old.
That’s terrible. I respect that you haven’t given up on it yet. On mine I had to replace the computer, and that helped a lot. When the computer went bad, the transmission wouldn’t shift bad it sometimes had a high idle. That fix that problem. You could try getting a used Computer or chip off of eBay, but you have to make sure the chip is the exact right one for your truck. They have the model number stamped on it.
is the brain box for the 96 behind the glove also?
One of these parts might work. Expensive fix.
I agree why do ten things at once you will never know what fixed it
It sucks but it's either pay a mechanic a diagnostic fee to pinpoint the problem or just take the money it would cost you and buy those parts. Diagnostic fee is around 70$. Start with cheapest part first. Regardless, you will have a bunch of parts you won't have to replace for quite a while if you go that route before finding out the real problem.
I have a 94. It's running Rich with a skip. And going down the road when it's skipping it has a faint popping noise out the exhaust. Any ideas
I plugged in the temp sensor on top of the intake closest to the fan and it idled down and ran great . .
92 chev 1500 305 . 05/31/2024
My 94 sbc 350 has 322k original miles on the motor. Pretty sure it’s internal seals causing my issues but it runs kinda rough at idle but drives fine minus the occasional trans slip, which I’ve narrowed down to shift solenoids. Any suggestions? lol I’ve done the plugs n wires, timing job was done around 270k miles, new egr, cleaned throttle body, new fuel filter, new tps, lots of other work the motor just has never been rebuilt. It burns about a quart of oil every 800 miles or so with no obviously bad leaks externally. In park it idles at 450ish Rpms and in drive/reverse around 200? According to the Tach of course.
I have a 93 Chevrolet 2500 that blew a fuse to the windshield wipers and when I changed the fuse it will not start . The fuel pump will not come on any clues for helping me
My 1998 Silverado is doing the hesitation thing again and I fear it's the fuel pump again. I had one put in about 50,000 miles ago and it cost me nearly $1,000. I'll try the things you mentioned but I'm thinking these symptoms are the same as they were before.
Thanks so much living the nightmare right now😁
You’re welcome. It seems like a simple problem, but it can be really hard to diagnose. I replaced almost everything before the truck ran right. I think the problem was the catalytic converter.
I'm having that problem as well. 225k miles. My theory is it's the fuel filter but if it still hesitant I will try other stuff before tackling the pump.
That's sweet rig you have bro
Thanks. I like it.
Just picked up a 2001 Silverado 1500 4x4 with only 70k on it and it,s super clean! Got this truck from a well known dealer here in Cleveland 1 owner truck with ext cab! The second day of driving the truck the front calipers started leaking and i took the truck back to the Dealership! They put all new brake lines and new brake rotors and calipers all the way around! On the 3,d day of driving the Truck the gas line started leaking at the fuel filter! Once again i returned the Truck to the Dealership and the replaced fuel lines from the tank to the fuel regulator! Including fuel filter! So after only a week of driving and not even putting 300 miles on the Truck the Transmission lines decided to start leaking =\ So once again back to the Dealership where they put all new Transmission lines in and flushed the system and top off the ac unit! At this point i,m ready to trade it in! But the dealership also put a set of new tires on it for me as well! So after all the new work on the truck it is driving like a new Truck again with the 4.8 liter engine that you could eat off of! Lesson learned here! Make sure you look at every line every brake line every gas line all lines with fluid running threw them before purchase!
Definitely. You want to make sure that you catch everything and knock the price down before you buy it. But now that that’s done, you have a great truck. That generation of truck is one newer than mine, and my dad has one that he’s Jevon for almost 20 years, and it is a great reliable and functional truck that you will love for a long time. With most you’ve used vehicles, you have to sort them out and repair things for the first year or so, and then they’re good after that.
I have a 1991 Chevy Z71 with 506,000 miles and drive it everyday still.my truck did that a couple of times and both times it was the EGR valve sticking,so I just replaced it for about $40 and was good to go.
Thanks. That EGR valve can definitely do that. Mine was still hesitating after I replaced it, but on my van it fix the problem.
I’ve got 1996 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 4x4 I’m running into a few issues like your but I’m not doing a parts canon just shoot and hope for it to work
In my case I’m pretty sure it was the catalytic converter plates, which had come loose and sometimes they were obstructing the exhaust, and other times that would rattle into position to let the exhaust flow freely. I would’ve replaced that first if me or my mechanic had figured it out.
Thanks for the videos! I can start the truck easy if it has been sitting but if I stop and go on a errand it it's hard top start. Plus I can smell gas when it is running(running rich maybe).ECM is bad. This is a 96 gmc with 5.7 v8. I have 248000 miles. Any advice would be great. Finally, don't know if it is from running rich but the truck shakes when idle. I put into park and the shaking stops.
These trucks are tricky. It could be the EGR valve is dirty. On mine one thing I didn’t mention in the video because I didn’t know about it yet was that it had an intake manifold leak. That’s pretty common on these trucks, so maybe some extra air is getting in there. Also, on my truck I think the main problem was that the Catalytic converter had gone bad and the plates in it were rattling around and sometimes obstructing exhaust flow.
@@hoohoohoblin rats nest in exhaust ?
Hi there I have a 89 Chevy Silverado C1500 the original 5.0 blew up so I built a new 5.7 and put it in now I have hesitation when I accelerate from a dead stop it is almost like it stumbles sometimes it stalls out the question I have is the ECM from the 5.0 the same programming for the 5.7 any help with this would be greatly appreciated I have been out of work for 9 months and just got it running
Yeeeah... I had a 93 gmc sierra. Had the same problems you were having and i don't know if it was the previous owner or not but noone put a fuel filter on it. Ended up costing me a whole lotta money in parts and in the end I sent her to the junkyard cause i couldn't spend the money on her anymore. She's still sitting there...
It's very frustrating. This truck ran terrible for a year and a half while I kept replacing parts. The most frustrating part was that I knew it was one simple thing that needed replacing, but I didn't know which thing. I ended up giving it to a mechanic, who spent a month trying different things until we got it sorted out, and it runs great now. In my case the main problems were the fuel pump and catalytic converter.
hoohoohoblin Yeah, I could never get mine figured out. I even had several mechanics take a look at it. Took the seat out of it as a souvenir for my first truck.
to simple just to have someone check to see whatt the problem was
Don't have to drop fuel tank to get fuel pump out i found it's easier to tilt the bed and leaves ya with plenty of room to access the tank from the top. Just remove the 2 bolts on the driver side and run the 2 on passenger side almost completely out but not all the way then disconnect tail light electrical harness tilt bed up and put a block of wood between bed and frame.
Good advice. I will do that next time. Thanks.
Don’t forget the ground strap too.
What does the catalytic convertor sound like? My truck sounds like a roller coaster going up. Constant clanking
It sounded like this. GM Truck Transmission Rattles In Drive When Stopped Fix ua-cam.com/video/gVL2A1iYRLQ/v-deo.html
I fixed it by replacing the intake and TB with an Edelbrock intake and a 800 cfm Q jet carb. Threw that damn crappy TB right into the trash along with the cat and factory exhaust and installed headers and glass packs. No computer crap anymore so an Accell HEI dist and wow is all the hesitation gone. And gets better mileage too.
That’s a great solution. I can’t do it on my truck because I am in California.
No inspection or smog crap here and we love it!
What one part did you replace fix your pickup? Changing a lot parts is expensive.
I think the problem was with the catalytic converter, but I’m not sure.
@@hoohoohoblin That makes sense. We both had misfiring problems. I noticed steam and water coming out my tail pipe. I had to replaced the distributor cap and rotor. I later learned that if you drive your car to much when it's misfiring, it can ruin your catalytic converter. Thanks.
How did you cut your catalytic converters? I’m replacing my maf sensor tmmrw and if that’s not the issue then ima have to eliminate my catalytic converter.
I had somebody replace my catalytic converter. I still have to pass emissions in California with it. I think the problem was that it was all clogged up and old. It passes emissions and runs fine now.
Was it shaking or jerking bad when you accelerate? Recently my 1994 Chevy Silverado c/k1500 5.7 with a 350 started to shake bad when driving. It only happens around 3 gear and up. It’s hesitates and then also jerks really bad when I press down the gas pedal a certain bit. Specially around 40mph and up. At around 50-55 I’m kicking into over drive and this is where the problem is the worst. Cause at about 50 I can only press the pedal down so much to get more speed without the truck shaking real bad. If I accelerate easy and slow it doesn’t happen.
It could be the EGR valve getting stuck open. I’ve seen that happen on these motors before I
I have a question for you. Although I have not used the paperclip thing in the box under the dash to see which code the 'service engine soon' light says, my service engine soon light kept coming on and off so, using my limited skills, I replaced the oxygen sensor (which looked good and probably didn't need to be replaced) and that didn't help. Next, I replaced the EGR valve (which looked good and probably didn't need to be replaced) and the service engine soon light keeps coming on but doesn't stay on. Sometimes it doesn't come on at all. I am almost positive it isn't the brake switch so now I am at a loss. Do I replace the EGR solenoid and hope for the best or what? Any suggestions? I am not a mechanic by any stretch but not afraid to tackle some of these things. I can waste a few dollars here and there and still be ahead of the game if I compare to taking it to a shop somewhere and get charged $100 an hour or more. I am open to any ideas you might have.
This is a really tough one. Even if you take it to a mechanic, they might not be able to figure it out either. I generally start with the cheapest and most logical parts first and go forward. On my truck, I think the problem was the catalytic converter plates had broken loose and were sometimes obstructing the exhaust flow. Could also have been the fuel pump being weak.
Did u ever figure out the problem?
Ok, but here's my issue. K1500 Heavy Half 5.7L Auto. Starts fine when cold, idles a little low and sometimes stalls. But when driving, after all is warmed up and hot. Loses power, like its running only on 3or4 cylinders. Stalls out, then won't restart until it cools off. Kinda like vapor lock is keeping the starter from rolling the engine over, or the battery is too weak to crank the engine. But after cooling, starts up and runs fine again. What's your take on that?
It could be the EGR valve getting stuck open. Sometimes if an ignition coil is going bad, it expands when it gets hot, and then the spark gets weak, but when it cools off, then it’s able to spark again. I’ve seen that happen on one of my motorcycles.
Question, what can it be when my truck sits overnight and or about 4 hours and it starts up, just to die.. but once it's warm, it runs great and doesn't turn off like it would when no warm enough.
I don’t know. I need to figure that out and make a video about it. Mine does that and I just let it run for a minute before I drive it.
My pops truck has the stumbling i.e. bucking after having a bad crankshaft sensor. So we replaced it cause we had no spark, we also replaced the camshaft sensor and a few other parts but we're tires of throwing money at it.
I have a 89 s10 pickup with a 2.5 liter engine and a manual transmission. Problem is it runs fine for about 15 to 20 minutes then it want to buck and carry on hesitate. Today when you put the clutch in it tried to die. The only parts I didn't install were the tps and map sensor. The fuel pump hanger assembly and tank are brand new. The brand new pump went bad in less than 30 days. I don't know what is causing it to run the way it does. The person i purchased truck from also replaced fuel pump. Why does my truck hate fuel pumps?
It could be the EGR valve getting stuck, or it could be the plates in the catalytic converter have broken loose and sometimes obstruct exhaust flow.
You forgot the intake gasket and cracks in the heads between the valves. Lol and many other issues. I don't think you fixed it yet. Keep looking