All the comments on videos like these are entertaining. Most the negative comments or the ones saying don't do things like this are not necessarily wrong either....But the issue is this..IMO...to properly dry your basement......The only correct way.....especially an old house that has zero modern waterproofing done during construction its construction....Is insanely expensive. Because here is the only way to do it right. Period.....no other option. Step 1] Dig completely around your house down to the top of your footing....All the way around.. Step 2] clean the surface of the basement walls completely. Step 3] patch/repair all cracks, holes etc....as well as seal up penetrations that have to be there. Utility lines, drainage piping etc. Step 4] apply a liquid water proof membrane. [Argue amongst yourselves on what type/brand is best] Step 5] install the dimpled plastic sheeting system over the membrane . Step 6] install weep drainage system around entire perimeter of your footing...at the footer level. Tie all your downspouts into this weep system. Backfill with stone [argue how much stone amongst yourselves] I believe you backfill up to a foot to 2' below finish grade with stone. Step 7] finish backfilling with topsoil and make sure all of your yard around your house to at least 10-15' away from your house drains away from your house. All of it. Step 8] seed and straw all the work and replace all landscaping etc that was destroyed, due to this work. Step 9] (trigger warning for all the hard-core exterior only waterproofing guys) For added security and last line of defense....cut a trench around the entire interior perimeter of your basement floor install a weep tile drain system that runs to an interior sump pump. Install pump, backfill and repour all concrete....... Price that out and let me know how crazy this guy is for doing what's he doing......10's of thousands of dollars, in most cases, to do it right. Soooo if your not going to, or can't, do it "right".....find the most affordable and least labor intensive option that works for your situation and tell the trolls to huuuussssshhhhhh
Bought a house with standing water...... Has an almost 3 foot over hang and gutters and I'm still getting water coming through my basement for when it rains
Thank you. 25 years ago I used a product called Thoroseal can in a metal 5 gallon pail. Follow instructions on can and applied with a masonry 5 inch brush. One can only do 2 foot at a time since the product dries fast. I was able to do a wall in basement the length of the home and the outside wall of May garage when I was 40. I’m now 67 and it needs to be redone again in spots so I stain by this product. It is also mixed with Acryl 60 Cement Addtv Gl. Follow instructions. It last all those years. It prevented water entering my basement. It works. Thank you sir.
Years ago, I was working on a new construction project, an old age home. Boss said the elevator shaft was leaking. It certainly was! Water was constantly trickling in. My buddy and I spent a week patching and patching with hydraulic cement. It was a complete waste of time. I told the boss we could stay there as long as he liked but the only way to stop that water was to dig up the outside and properly waterproof the concrete. That's what they eventually had to do. We cleaned the outside of the 'crete, the painter came in and coated it with a layer of black waterproofing material and we installed a drainage system along the footer. Hydraulic cement only works for minor seepage like you had there.
I have fixed over 100 elevator shafts and I definitely have used waterplug for some of the work I had to do injections with polyurethane expanding g foam grout to fix the majority.
I think my house needs this process completed. Is there a type of company that specializes in this? I imagine it's not landscaping or construction. Any advice you'd be willing to share on what to look for and be aware of when hiring a company to perform this fix? Thanks!
@@DGP311I’d assume it would likely be too puffed up to do that, but just curious, bc I’m about to use the hydraulic cement on my gf’s basement. Her leaks aren’t “too severe” I suppose, as of yet. But it’s a very old house. I just don’t want to use this technique, & cause more problems later. But curious about a DYI, but professional/science based, tried and true route to fix this, after the storm me just had… Thanks man. & thanks to anyone else who can provide some professional advice or tips for handling this properly before we dive in. Cheers
@shaunsnowmusic33 you usually will go over the repair area pumping in the polyurethane expanding grout with the waterplug, but you would want to clean off any foam that is sticking out of the crack or hole. The polyurethane grout activates with moisture, so after injecting, you would wait until the foam is cured to trim off any that is sticking out before going over it with the waterplug. The product I use is called Sika-HH, but there's other brands as well. If you have a local commercial concrete supply store, they will likely have it or something similar. I'm not sure I have ever seen it at Home Depot.
This product is awesome. My dad showed me when helping me on a 133 yr old house I had to update. But as pointed out you still want to address the root of the problem. Wherever possibly keep water away from your foundation when dealing with basements/foundations. French drains, gutter extensions, sub pump etc
We just had some extension work done on our foundation and installed a French drain but with all the California rain we are getting rain is moving into the basement again. Our next plan will be to plug the holes up with this stuff and hopefully that will work.
If your house is that old and has a brick foundation, using this was detrimental to your house. It will destroy your bricks by locking moisture in them and causing them to fall apart. We are looking at $50k+ repair for the small section of our cellar that has to be replaced because sealing products were used
As you mentioned rain water management is very important. It is must for the grounds to slope away from the building. It’s also a good idea that the downspouts go a few feet away from the building. Like those foldable bottom pieces, that you fold up when mowing the lawn.
I did this today after a heavy downpour. I scrubbed the cracks with a wire brush and washed them with a stream of water from a pump pressure sprayer. They started looking clean. The cement/water mix dried out too quickly, I wasted a lot of product and had to make a new mix. To do this on the exterior, the ground would have to be excavated and I can't deal with this right now. The soil definitely doesn't have a positive slope anymore and that I can correct. It probably sinks overtime. The French drain around the whole perimeter in the basement is helping to direct all that water into the sump pump and it's keeping the floor dry, but the walls get wet in a few spots after every rain. I can literally watch thin streams of rain running down the walls like a mini waterfall. Some of it is happening behind the fiberglass insulation! If I can sell this house, my next one will not have a basement ever again! It's just too much trouble to have a basement despite all the pros. Leaks, humidity, sump pump, dehumidifiers, spiders/ants, etc. Never again.
you also have to fix the holes from outside otherwise water will still come in the basement. I mix some cement with bonding agent and fill the little holes outside the basement. you can also pour some watery cement down the holes so tit can dry in the pathway that lead to the basement.
I had a water leak around a pipe that was run through the foundation of my house. I had no idea how to repair. This worked perfectly! And the material cost was only $8. Thank you so much!!
Thanks I just used Thoroseal again the first time was 30 years ago when I was 35 I scrapped off the material that was loose and cleaned up a bit more and mixed up Thoroseal into a bucket to make to consistency of thick pancake batter and applied with a large masonry brush. I now have a small very small leak in the floor. Up in the northeast it has rained more in three days then it has in many months so the concrete slap can’t take all of that pressure. I will now use what you are showing Thank you. I’m now 67.
@1:50 you read the prep instructions but didn't follow them at all and instead basically just stuffed it in problem areas and smoothed it. I tried this same process with the exact hydraulic cement over an exterior cinder block surface. It failed over time. The material cracked and popped out. Proper prep is key so following the manufacturer's instructions is crucial. You hit the nail on the head when you said your problem lies within the gutters. You need to divert the water away from the house, like you said. Fixing that will truly fix this issue.
I attached plastic tubes to my gutters and ran them about 15 feet from the foundation. No more new cracks, now I can effectively patch them. PNW rain is no joke.
@@supportmerit truth. I'm in BC. This current rain/flooding Nov 2021 has been disastrous. Hoping there's some of this magical concrete on the Home Depot shelves.
This stuff is amazing. I just used it to seal a leak from the pvc inlet into my septic tank. It worked great. Different application but thought this info might help someone else with the same problem.
BINGO!! That's what I'm working on today! Had to replace the pipes from the house to the septic tank, and the inlet pipe. Needing to patch around the pipe before the rains come tomorrow!
I have used this product in one part of my basement and it fixed that leak. We had some heavy rains a week ago and another section had a big leak. Looks like where the utilities enter, maybe a seal, or maybe a crack I can't see. I put big totes out there to catch the rain the past 2 times and no leak. Yep... lack of gutters are my issue, too! In the meantime, I am dehumifying to dry it out then I'll get down there and do some more patch work. If anyone has used the injection gel for large wall cracks and can vouch it works (or one to stay away from), would live to know. After I get gutters, that's my next project.
If you seal the cracks from inside the house , the water keep seeping from outside and stayed be hind the walls, I believe the best way to seal the wall by this cement , ls from outside the house even if you have to dig to reach the space you have to seal. What do you think ?
The proper way to deal with these foundation issues is always from outside. You water proof outside and leave the inside breathable. If you use a product like drylok or flex seal on the inside and dont address the outside it will just hold water in the wall and increase the pressure of water on that foundation wall. It will also accelerate the break down of the lime in the cement. Also always look at the issues of drainage from gutter also make sure that you dont have plants or trees right outside the foundation wall I believe its best to have plants a min 1-1/2 feet or more away from the wall. Also replacing 6 inchs of the soil with a mixture of different size rock on the first 6 inchs from the wall help with drainage aswell. If you aren't sure on what is best for your property pay for a pro foundation company to come look and go from there.
@@linuxlinux9914 fixing from the outside with a rubber membrane system does work great. Typically comes with a 20 year warranty but so does polyurethane injection at 1/3 the cost. The product flexes with the foundation through the changing seasons and penetrates to the outside.
I don't want to burst anyone's bubbles But the best line of defence for leaking walls is from the outside I worked construction for 36 years One job was Wilshire and Bundy Los Angeles While we were in construction They were pulling 1 million gallons a day to keep the hole dry We were 6 storys deep Across the street the city had their water wells My job was to install the rock layer for P6 floor 4 inchs at the walls and 8 ft at the pit Any way to seal the wall .. all 6 storys They had a pump machine... The guy that ran that machine Would look for the worst leaks Drill a hole through the wall and pump silicone until that leak stoped Every day he would look for new leaks He wrapped all 6 storys with silicone... The clean out on the machine every day Was a 5 gallon pile of silicone... Out side of that There are several ways to work the outside of walls on homes Any thing on the inside is only a band aid Sorry
bingo, this video is only stopping the issue at the surface. The water is still there and you better believe it's constantly trying to find a new way in.
@@webzhh Bunker. Meaning under ground There is rubber sheets with contact glue... I would lay it bottom to top generis overlap Then there is a plastic dimpled material with filter fabric covering it To let moister pass through But first at the bottom outside below floor lever 4 inch drain pipe (gravel backfill the pipe) that drains to a pit with a sump pump... And surface grade draining away from bunker in all directions
I just worked in my basement fixing water also. Used Duralock gaulk gun tubes. Vacuumed first and putty knife and let dry overnite and then duralock paint and let dry overnite and used waterproof sealer. Im good to go. Concrete painted walls. It worked!
No joke, this stuff sets up VERY fast. I just got done filling the cracks between the pour concrete porch and the cinder blocks below it in our basement. It works very well. You just need to work fast. I first tried following the directions and weighing it 4-1/2 parts concrete to water...not advisable. It starts setting up too fast. You'll figure out the consistency very quickly. It needs to be just a tad under the consistency of playdough.
Thanks for the video, I already bought two buckets and the trowels I need and we have been contemplating this project for a short while now. You have given me the confidence to do the job! We have a small cold room in the basement that gets water into it, directly above the ceiling in this room is our front porch area. I am going to fill the cracks there as well and push as much of this cement through until I can see it coming out the outside. I am more than excited to do this job now, just need a big wire brush like you used in the video. Thanks again!
I have the exact same setup, cold room under the front step (capped by the step). Of course, the whole cap has cracked and allows water into the cold room which doesn't take long to get into the main basement. We dug it out last year and added French drains, which helped a lot, but still getting some water in. Also, there is what appears to be a spike hold from when the forms were removed and on heavy rain days I could literally put spigot in the whole to have a fresh water tap lol. Considering trying to stuff the hole with this cement but not sure how to get it far enough in to do much good (or just push back out from the force of the water. I really don't want to dig up the French drain again to work from the outside.
As far as I'm concerned, the source of the leak should be corrected on the outside surface. Otherwise the moisture will continue to penetrate the wall and will find other ways of getting in and will eventually rot out the concrete or mortar if a block wall is there.
Sometimes it rains bad and nearly floods, not much you can do about it unless you wanna pay big bucks for someone to dig in the outside to repair. Most of us can't afford that
And watch out for those inverse inclined near the foundation. Surface water deflection goes a long way. Plant grass, clean gutters and invest in downspout pipes.
I use this stuff all the time. Got to work in small batches, prepare what you will do ahead of time and work fast. This stuff dries really hard and works excellent. I find a moist sponge works great after you lay it in to make things nice and smooth.
We have a similar problem and a couple people suggested that we fix the grade around the house. Over time it settles and slopes toward the house. We’ll be doing that next spring. Once that’s done we’ll use your tips!
@@HarrisonCountyStudio French drain is better for a lot of people... especially if you have a roof with a steeper grade to it, because water pours off with speed and crashes into that concrete that is right next to the home. That concrete that looked great when you put it up will end up breaking down and directing water right towards the foundation in so many years. I say all this because the home I bought a few years ago has this exact problem and it's causing a lot of headache to get it addressed.
It’s a bandaid .. water will find another way in . It needs to be corrected from outside with blueskin or air gap membrane. Or if it’s hydrostatic pressure a drainage system.
Thanks. This really will help me with the tiny leaks I found under my sink. I'm a girl so I wanna make sure I do things right haha. Coz all I found online are for huge holes so this really helps I also ordered a putty knife/scraper, I already have that wired brush, and made sure I don't get both hands wet as the other for mixing with a potable water n the other dry hands if I need more powder cement. Thanks for being detailed, also I learned to also add on areas that may have cracks just in case. Yes yesss I'm excited to play as a handy woman lolz. Water leaks are annoying with the wet floor in my kitchen sink. God bless y'all. ❤
When I first moved into my 100 yr old home and removed the false floor and wood panelling in the basement, I discovered a leak via a crack that runs from the window to the floor. I went to HD and they recommended this product. My handyman filled the crack from the inside, I had a dehumidifier running 24/7, and later I sealed some cracks on the outside where the apron had separated from the wall. There have been no leaks since and it was placed in the cracks 3 years ago. I need gutters, and there was a leaky faucet outside the window which has since been repaired. The wood frame around the window has deteriorated, and there is a little crumbling of the concrete just below the frame, too. My plan is to get the wood frame replaced and inject some concrete repair down the crack at that time to fill it up because I know the handyman only got this product in maybe about a half inch, leaving the rest of the crack exposed on the outside (below ground level). I have a larger crack on another wall and I don't know if it is underground or open at the top. The top of the crack falls under my enclosed porch. Guess I am going to tear up that floor to check, first, so if it is exposed, the epoxy (or resin, or foam) won't just shoot into thin air. I am doing my research so I'm sure to get the right products.
Yeah, getting the gutters added to your front is definitely a good idea. Water needs to flow away from the house and if not, it causes foundation issues which can become very costly. We have them at out house and I am looking into different tutorials on how to fix them. Thanks for the video, learned a lot.
is this also applicable if the ones that are leaking is at the floor because it is an underground room and when it is flooding the room is also flooding cause of the leak..thank you
If you seal the cracks from the inside, wouldn't the water still seep into the concrete wall and sit there? Still causing damage? Maybe eventually causing the water to find an "alternate route" into the basement? (more cracks). I'm guessing it's best to seal leaks from the outside if possible, preventing any water from leaking in the first place. For instance, a french drain etc. Obviously that would be a huge job for a few small leaks. I have a cellar bulkhead, and water is leaking in, from where the bulkhead wood frame sites on the concrete stairs. I plan to dig down outside of the bulkhead, and try to seal from the outside. This product may help.
If you care about your house DO NOT DO THIS!!! Water will still penetrate the foundation/block wall from outside. This will "lock" the moisture in the wall and cause the lime to seep. Eventually, completely ruining your wall. This needs to be done OUTSIDE!!! There is a few products (big$) that will work like this... They allow the wall to "breathe" while still holding back moisture(couldn't tell you how) but please, DON'T DO THIS 👍
This stuff will trap the moisture and cause cavitation and the concrete to crumble and breakdown. Mold will set in and spores will propagate all over. It's your health brother.... I highly suggest construction of some mitigation method that will leach/channel/divert water/snow away from your foundation. Dig down and around in small linear sections along your basement as not to disturb the foundational integrity of your home. Apply a rubber, or coat the exterior of the basement walls with a sikaflex product, apply that... Let it dry, then construct a type of French drain to some type of field drain tile and follow your property contour it out away from the structure if at all possible. If it's not feasible all at once do it in steps and phases repeating each step the same as previous in order to keep the effective means to achieve the same outcome. By the way I live in Fargo.... So I know snow...... And Florida rain/hurricanes......not an engineer not a book nerd. Just been doing concrete construction and concrete repair/waterproofing for 20 years.
Xypex does the same thing. The only thing I recommend is chipping out a V shaped groove. I fix cracks and leaks on sites all the time. So getting the grout further in is essential.
When we built the contractor installed inside french drains. Unfortunately heavy rains occasionally overwhelmed the exterior french drains and then came inside. After a few failed attempts, I finally used hydraulic cement to seal he block to the floor which worked great and we haven't had an issue since.
I recently used drylok on a small section of my basement wall under the stairs entering the basement. The rest of the basement is done with drylok and zero leaks (knock on wood) I may need to use this though because there is a very small section that had an active leak, super minimal, but enough to stop the drylok from actually setting. I used rubber flex seal for now. I will see later when I get home if that dried well. Of course though, lots of rain today and tomorrow for south NJ, Toms River is where my house is. I will be doing investigating later to see if any water got in. Luckily it is still not a lot and it takes about 2 days of heavy rain get any water in the french drains too. Thanks for this video. I will be looking more into this product :)
Did this work ? I live in NY and have little water in one area of my basement when it rains. I was thinking of using this and then DryLock my whole basement.
I recently moved to South Jersey and my basement gets water when it rains for a few days. Thinking about using this stuff in the cove joint. I believe that’s what it’s called where the bricks meet the cement floor, which is where the water seats in.
I saw those keyboards brother don't let them get wet or moist to get in them but I definitely learned something on the channel thank you I'm an international recording on his travel around the world.
Why on earth wouldn't you build a house with gutters? No house in the UK is built without gutters for this precise reason. This 'fix' might, if you're lucky, stem any seepage for a while, but without fixing the outside issue, these walls will still get damp. The damage will just leech to another part of the wall, down or even potentially up. And, in fact, you have a bigger problem if the walls hold water, rather than shed it internally.
Well in MInnesota we all have gutters and our home has extended gutters. Many of our neighbors have drainage: drain tile, not sure why they call it that. We got very heavy WET snow yesterday 6-8 inches thunder lightning ⚡️ ⚡️ now it’s 55f and melting! I got a great DEhumidifer! Yet it’s record amounts of snow this year. What other OPTIONS auto keep water OUT??
We have had a few days of rain and just found water leaking in our foundation. We have NO money to hire someone. If we do it ourselves, and this may be a dumb question, won't the water still be leaking into the foundation? If it can't leak into the basement where will it go? My husband was USAF so we have not owned a home as long as most people our age should have and we don't know as much as we should. I think we're going to have to fix it ourselves.
😂😂😂 Sorry but Hydraulic Cement is like a plastic toy in front of a professional leak repair. Best and permanent method is first using Polyurethane sealer, once cured use Roofing Tar (extra waterproofing) and once that is cured use PSI 6000 Cement mix on top of the Tar. This is a permanent repair that will last longer than the owners 🎉
@benjaminhickmann6478 To avoid that you have to torch dry the area before sealing it with Polyurethane. If you don't then you will see bubbles on Polyurethane sealer
I got my leak making sure I apply pressure to the surface with tools than by hand, our foundation is below the surface and cemented. the water as it drains to the Earth can not be redirected. So Water stop, lay down twice for me, along with Drylock water seal is necessary, the PSI of the product is enough to stop any leak, if asked.
Yes, I think you’re right I need gutters around my house to stop the water from coming in the basement sometimes a plastic bag around the porch and it rained a lot and I helped the whole lot cause I seen a lot of water coming down from the front from the building
Great video. I found that I only had about 2-3 minutes before the cement was unusable. Seeing your mixing / consistency really helped as I worked my way down the crack. As this was a larger crack, I actually did use the 2-part epoxy as the initial fix and it was amazing. Using the hydraulic cement was my step 2 to further seal up the surrounding areas. Really enjoy your channel and your approach to teaching!
Getting this tomorrow. Have a couple active and non active leaks that have been my damn bane for 2 weeks now! Good thing the landlord is taking care of it! Pfffft!!
are you located in MN I am a certified field inspector and can do a free inspection. water problems cannot be solved with menards special patch products😂 you are in need of a complete system and the landlord should fix it the right way to not have further problems in the future.
I’m getting ready to reseal a basement in my home. It was built in 52 by my grandmothers 1st husband. I was just curious, now that this project has been done for a bit now, would you still recommend using this or the flex seal that I saw you use in another vid. Thanks for all the info in your videos. I really appreciate it!
That's great for the interior, which I think I'll use in my cold store room, what would you put on the exterior, if exposed to the winter elements, liquid rubber sealant?
Thank you. I've been doing it wrong and water started coming in through pin holes. Just got doing it with a trowel and applying it like spackle. Now I know I've been doing it wrong. Supposed to have 3 inches of rain tomorrow so we'll see how it holds. If it doesn't I'm tearing it out and starting over
I purchased a house about a year ago. The previous owner had made the crawlspace aesthetic looking. Overtime, I saw water leakage. I had a french drain installed.Now, my question is, is that a Band-Aid or is that a solution?
@@TheFixerHomeRepair Like you vids! I aslo used hydraulic cement on my basement, I had humidity/mold issue on one spot, got it clean with chemicals/brushing, and added the cement for extra protection on nails holes, corners. The room has foam isolation and sheet rocks, and it is a play room for kids.
Comment and question. We had a house built in 1890-95. Bottom was stone and it had siding. I had a couple companies tell me just fill cracks in with hydraulic cement BUT from the outside. My concern about doing it on the inside is water can push through and I was told I'd have a mess on my hands. That's what I did and all was well. My question is - does putting on the inside really stop it for more than a year and what happened to the cement in rainy areas in a year?
Looking to DIY this in the basement.. front half of rancher has French drain.. backside corner is leaking during the rain. Not a puddle just moist about 6 inches from the wall..Is that a good option?
would it work with tiles in the bathroom? I got a leak along 1 side of the floor and the wall. I plan to open the join between the wall and bathroom floor and fill it up with this. However, I am not sure it will make a good contact with tiles or not. Thanks
@thefixer - thank you for your video. Very helpful! I was wondering if you or someone could confirm before I make a big mess that this technique of applying this stuff when there's not an active leak worked? As you noted, I think, the bucket (under "Precautions") says "only for use to fill active leaks..." I would love however, to do it BEFORE the rainy season gets going... Also, can you comment on which foam option you'd recommend? Thank you!!!!
All the comments on videos like these are entertaining. Most the negative comments or the ones saying don't do things like this are not necessarily wrong either....But the issue is this..IMO...to properly dry your basement......The only correct way.....especially an old house that has zero modern waterproofing done during construction its construction....Is insanely expensive. Because here is the only way to do it right. Period.....no other option.
Step 1] Dig completely around your house down to the top of your footing....All the way around..
Step 2] clean the surface of the basement walls completely.
Step 3] patch/repair all cracks, holes etc....as well as seal up penetrations that have to be there. Utility lines, drainage piping etc.
Step 4] apply a liquid water proof membrane. [Argue amongst yourselves on what type/brand is best]
Step 5] install the dimpled plastic sheeting system over the membrane .
Step 6] install weep drainage system around entire perimeter of your footing...at the footer level. Tie all your downspouts into this weep system. Backfill with stone [argue how much stone amongst yourselves] I believe you backfill up to a foot to 2' below finish grade with stone.
Step 7] finish backfilling with topsoil and make sure all of your yard around your house to at least 10-15' away from your house drains away from your house. All of it.
Step 8] seed and straw all the work and replace all landscaping etc that was destroyed, due to this work.
Step 9] (trigger warning for all the hard-core exterior only waterproofing guys) For added security and last line of defense....cut a trench around the entire interior perimeter of your basement floor install a weep tile drain system that runs to an interior sump pump. Install pump, backfill and repour all concrete.......
Price that out and let me know how crazy this guy is for doing what's he doing......10's of thousands of dollars, in most cases, to do it right. Soooo if your not going to, or can't, do it "right".....find the most affordable and least labor intensive option that works for your situation and tell the trolls to huuuussssshhhhhh
thanks for detailing the proper steps on do it right. this is going to be a fun summer project :)
This is wrong. And that is not the only way to stop leaks. That is just the only fix that can mostly guarantee a fix
Bought a house with standing water...... Has an almost 3 foot over hang and gutters and I'm still getting water coming through my basement for when it rains
Don't tie your downspouts into your footing drain tile. That's a good way to overwhelm that drain so it can't do its job.
Thank you. 25 years ago I used a product called Thoroseal can in a metal 5 gallon pail. Follow instructions on can and applied with a masonry 5 inch brush. One can only do 2 foot at a time since the product dries fast.
I was able to do a wall in basement the length of the home and the outside wall of May garage when I was 40. I’m now 67 and it needs to be redone again in spots so I stain by this product. It is also mixed with Acryl 60 Cement Addtv Gl. Follow instructions. It last all those years. It prevented water entering my basement. It works.
Thank you sir.
Good to know. I‘m trying to find a good sealer and this sounds like one 😊
Years ago, I was working on a new construction project, an old age home. Boss said the elevator shaft was leaking. It certainly was! Water was constantly trickling in. My buddy and I spent a week patching and patching with hydraulic cement. It was a complete waste of time. I told the boss we could stay there as long as he liked but the only way to stop that water was to dig up the outside and properly waterproof the concrete. That's what they eventually had to do. We cleaned the outside of the 'crete, the painter came in and coated it with a layer of black waterproofing material and we installed a drainage system along the footer. Hydraulic cement only works for minor seepage like you had there.
I have fixed over 100 elevator shafts and I definitely have used waterplug for some of the work I had to do injections with polyurethane expanding g foam grout to fix the majority.
I think my house needs this process completed. Is there a type of company that specializes in this? I imagine it's not landscaping or construction. Any advice you'd be willing to share on what to look for and be aware of when hiring a company to perform this fix? Thanks!
@@DGP311can you use that product and after it dries, then use the hydraulic cement over it..?
@@DGP311I’d assume it would likely be too puffed up to do that, but just curious, bc I’m about to use the hydraulic cement on my gf’s basement. Her leaks aren’t “too severe” I suppose, as of yet. But it’s a very old house. I just don’t want to use this technique, & cause more problems later.
But curious about a DYI, but professional/science based, tried and true route to fix this, after the storm me just had…
Thanks man.
& thanks to anyone else who can provide some professional advice or tips for handling this properly before we dive in. Cheers
@shaunsnowmusic33 you usually will go over the repair area pumping in the polyurethane expanding grout with the waterplug, but you would want to clean off any foam that is sticking out of the crack or hole. The polyurethane grout activates with moisture, so after injecting, you would wait until the foam is cured to trim off any that is sticking out before going over it with the waterplug. The product I use is called Sika-HH, but there's other brands as well. If you have a local commercial concrete supply store, they will likely have it or something similar. I'm not sure I have ever seen it at Home Depot.
This product is awesome. My dad showed me when helping me on a 133 yr old house I had to update. But as pointed out you still want to address the root of the problem. Wherever possibly keep water away from your foundation when dealing with basements/foundations. French drains, gutter extensions, sub pump etc
Yup, stopping the water before it even gets to the foundation is priority #1! Thanks for checking out the video!!
We just had some extension work done on our foundation and installed a French drain but with all the California rain we are getting rain is moving into the basement again. Our next plan will be to plug the holes up with this stuff and hopefully that will work.
If your house is that old and has a brick foundation, using this was detrimental to your house. It will destroy your bricks by locking moisture in them and causing them to fall apart. We are looking at $50k+ repair for the small section of our cellar that has to be replaced because sealing products were used
As you mentioned rain water management is very important. It is must for the grounds to slope away from the building. It’s also a good idea that the downspouts go a few feet away from the building. Like those foldable bottom pieces, that you fold up when mowing the lawn.
I did this today after a heavy downpour. I scrubbed the cracks with a wire brush and washed them with a stream of water from a pump pressure sprayer. They started looking clean. The cement/water mix dried out too quickly, I wasted a lot of product and had to make a new mix. To do this on the exterior, the ground would have to be excavated and I can't deal with this right now. The soil definitely doesn't have a positive slope anymore and that I can correct. It probably sinks overtime. The French drain around the whole perimeter in the basement is helping to direct all that water into the sump pump and it's keeping the floor dry, but the walls get wet in a few spots after every rain. I can literally watch thin streams of rain running down the walls like a mini waterfall. Some of it is happening behind the fiberglass insulation! If I can sell this house, my next one will not have a basement ever again! It's just too much trouble to have a basement despite all the pros. Leaks, humidity, sump pump, dehumidifiers, spiders/ants, etc. Never again.
You took the words right out of my mouth,lol. No more basement for me neither.
@@kevindavies1982 Oh, and this project with the cement didn't last long.
I agree
You are so correct. Screw basements
I will NEVER buy another house with a basement! There’s a reason why you see Ohio Basement Authority trucks all the time in our area!
you also have to fix the holes from outside otherwise water will still come in the basement. I mix some cement with bonding agent and fill the little holes outside the basement. you can also pour some watery cement down the holes so tit can dry in the pathway that lead to the basement.
I just finished watching 15 different videos on how to fill and seal cracks!!! Yours was the best by far!!!! Thanks
I had a water leak around a pipe that was run through the foundation of my house. I had no idea how to repair. This worked perfectly! And the material cost was only $8. Thank you so much!!
Thanks I just used Thoroseal again the first time was 30 years ago when I was 35 I scrapped off the material that was loose and cleaned up a bit more and mixed up Thoroseal into a bucket to make to consistency of thick pancake batter and applied with a large masonry brush.
I now have a small very small leak in the floor. Up in the northeast it has rained more in three days then it has in many months so the concrete slap can’t take all of that pressure.
I will now use what you are showing
Thank you. I’m now 67.
@1:50 you read the prep instructions but didn't follow them at all and instead basically just stuffed it in problem areas and smoothed it. I tried this same process with the exact hydraulic cement over an exterior cinder block surface. It failed over time. The material cracked and popped out. Proper prep is key so following the manufacturer's instructions is crucial. You hit the nail on the head when you said your problem lies within the gutters. You need to divert the water away from the house, like you said. Fixing that will truly fix this issue.
I attached plastic tubes to my gutters and ran them about 15 feet from the foundation. No more new cracks, now I can effectively patch them. PNW rain is no joke.
@@supportmerit truth. I'm in BC. This current rain/flooding Nov 2021 has been disastrous. Hoping there's some of this magical concrete on the Home Depot shelves.
Thank you for this, it gave me the confidence (as a complete novice) to try to tackle my own water issues in my stupid basement lol.
This stuff is amazing. I just used it to seal a leak from the pvc inlet into my septic tank. It worked great. Different application but thought this info might help someone else with the same problem.
I have the exact same problem right now, did you chip the hole more or did you just apply it there
BINGO!! That's what I'm working on today! Had to replace the pipes from the house to the septic tank, and the inlet pipe. Needing to patch around the pipe before the rains come tomorrow!
@marcosvieira9273 that's my concern too; prepping the concrete that is already there so it is water tight against groundwater seepage.
I have used this product in one part of my basement and it fixed that leak. We had some heavy rains a week ago and another section had a big leak. Looks like where the utilities enter, maybe a seal, or maybe a crack I can't see. I put big totes out there to catch the rain the past 2 times and no leak. Yep... lack of gutters are my issue, too! In the meantime, I am dehumifying to dry it out then I'll get down there and do some more patch work.
If anyone has used the injection gel for large wall cracks and can vouch it works (or one to stay away from), would live to know. After I get gutters, that's my next project.
Sealed up my 80 year old basement bilco doors with this stuff. You can always add water and remix if it dries on you, solid product
If you seal the cracks from inside the house , the water keep seeping from outside and stayed be hind the walls,
I believe the best way to seal the wall by this cement , ls from outside the house even if you have to dig to reach the space you have to seal. What do you think ?
@@kristopherjackson9952 that's allot of work but idk this rain fall messed us up bad
exactly fix leaks from outsde otherwise water will still come in the walls.
@@samston polyurethane injection don right will penetrate the crack to the outside 1/3 the cost.
The proper way to deal with these foundation issues is always from outside. You water proof outside and leave the inside breathable. If you use a product like drylok or flex seal on the inside and dont address the outside it will just hold water in the wall and increase the pressure of water on that foundation wall. It will also accelerate the break down of the lime in the cement. Also always look at the issues of drainage from gutter also make sure that you dont have plants or trees right outside the foundation wall I believe its best to have plants a min 1-1/2 feet or more away from the wall. Also replacing 6 inchs of the soil with a mixture of different size rock on the first 6 inchs from the wall help with drainage aswell. If you aren't sure on what is best for your property pay for a pro foundation company to come look and go from there.
@@linuxlinux9914 fixing from the outside with a rubber membrane system does work great. Typically comes with a 20 year warranty but so does polyurethane injection at 1/3 the cost.
The product flexes with the foundation through the changing seasons and penetrates to the outside.
I don't want to burst anyone's bubbles
But the best line of defence for leaking walls is from the outside
I worked construction for 36 years
One job was Wilshire and Bundy
Los Angeles
While we were in construction
They were pulling 1 million gallons a day to keep the hole dry
We were 6 storys deep
Across the street the city had their water wells
My job was to install the rock layer for P6 floor
4 inchs at the walls and 8 ft at the pit
Any way to seal the wall .. all 6 storys
They had a pump machine...
The guy that ran that machine
Would look for the worst leaks
Drill a hole through the wall and pump silicone until that leak stoped
Every day he would look for new leaks
He wrapped all 6 storys with silicone...
The clean out on the machine every day
Was a 5 gallon pile of silicone...
Out side of that
There are several ways to work the outside of walls on homes
Any thing on the inside is only a band aid
Sorry
bingo, this video is only stopping the issue at the surface. The water is still there and you better believe it's constantly trying to find a new way in.
100% agree , i done it by my self
Agree. I've tried hydraulic cement its a temporary fix won't last especially on the floor.
What would you recommend for a bunker with 1.5 ft thick cement walls
@@webzhh
Bunker. Meaning under ground
There is rubber sheets with contact glue...
I would lay it bottom to top generis overlap
Then there is a plastic dimpled material with filter fabric covering it
To let moister pass through
But first at the bottom outside below floor lever 4 inch drain pipe (gravel backfill the pipe) that drains to a pit with a sump pump...
And surface grade draining away from bunker in all directions
I just worked in my basement fixing water also. Used Duralock gaulk gun tubes. Vacuumed first and putty knife and let dry overnite and then duralock paint and let dry overnite and used waterproof sealer. Im good to go. Concrete painted walls. It worked!
Yes, for sure, Joyce! Once I paint this it will be perfect! Thanks for watching!
How long after hydrolic cement did u paint
2 days
Currently sitting in my basement fighting the flow of water with a shopvac. Definitely picking this up when im done.
How’d it work out ?
@@Tpfutures two weeks or rain no leaks worked great
Wow… that’s exactly what I am doing as we speak . I’m going to get this tomorrow. It’s supposed to be sunny
No joke, this stuff sets up VERY fast. I just got done filling the cracks between the pour concrete porch and the cinder blocks below it in our basement. It works very well. You just need to work fast. I first tried following the directions and weighing it 4-1/2 parts concrete to water...not advisable. It starts setting up too fast. You'll figure out the consistency very quickly. It needs to be just a tad under the consistency of playdough.
Thanks for the video, I already bought two buckets and the trowels I need and we have been contemplating this project for a short while now. You have given me the confidence to do the job! We have a small cold room in the basement that gets water into it, directly above the ceiling in this room is our front porch area. I am going to fill the cracks there as well and push as much of this cement through until I can see it coming out the outside. I am more than excited to do this job now, just need a big wire brush like you used in the video. Thanks again!
Did you try? How did it work out?
How did it work? Thanks
Carytman. Come back and let us know after a year or so, how you succeeded as the negative water pressure is nearly impossible to repair.
Results?
I have the exact same setup, cold room under the front step (capped by the step). Of course, the whole cap has cracked and allows water into the cold room which doesn't take long to get into the main basement. We dug it out last year and added French drains, which helped a lot, but still getting some water in. Also, there is what appears to be a spike hold from when the forms were removed and on heavy rain days I could literally put spigot in the whole to have a fresh water tap lol. Considering trying to stuff the hole with this cement but not sure how to get it far enough in to do much good (or just push back out from the force of the water. I really don't want to dig up the French drain again to work from the outside.
As far as I'm concerned, the source of the leak should be corrected on the outside surface. Otherwise the moisture will continue to penetrate the wall and will find other ways of getting in and will eventually rot out the concrete or mortar if a block wall is there.
Did you watch the video till the end? He states the actual reasoning. Delete your comment it's pointless and misdirects people away.
@@directorgtr nah the titles is
@@directorgtr can you time stamp what you are talking about.
He is right about the gutters. Whenever I forget to put my gutters together after mowing my lawn & it rains, there is water in the basement.
Sometimes it rains bad and nearly floods, not much you can do about it unless you wanna pay big bucks for someone to dig in the outside to repair. Most of us can't afford that
And watch out for those inverse inclined near the foundation. Surface water deflection goes a long way. Plant grass, clean gutters and invest in downspout pipes.
Absolutely, that should be step #1 to get the water away from the house. Thanks for the comment and for checking out the video!
yeah and w the bubblers you can route downspouts to the center of lawns without ugly exposed pipe
I use this stuff all the time. Got to work in small batches, prepare what you will do ahead of time and work fast. This stuff dries really hard and works excellent. I find a moist sponge works great after you lay it in to make things nice and smooth.
We have a similar problem and a couple people suggested that we fix the grade around the house. Over time it settles and slopes toward the house. We’ll be doing that next spring. Once that’s done we’ll use your tips!
Sounds good, Katie! I wish you the best of luck. Sounds like a job! Thanks so much for checking out the video!
Pour a 4’ wide concrete apron (side walk) around the house and shed the water away...
@@HarrisonCountyStudio French drain is better for a lot of people... especially if you have a roof with a steeper grade to it, because water pours off with speed and crashes into that concrete that is right next to the home. That concrete that looked great when you put it up will end up breaking down and directing water right towards the foundation in so many years. I say all this because the home I bought a few years ago has this exact problem and it's causing a lot of headache to get it addressed.
goood stuff man .... have this problem in a huge garage and decided to just take out the grade outside and redirect . this stuff works tooo
Of course redirecting water is the better solution when possible
Is it better then Drylock ?
THANK YOU. 🙏
I appreciate you sharing. Seeing it done overcomes the fear.
I used this on a basement job I did a few years ago.. stuff is pretty amazing.
It’s a bandaid .. water will find another way in . It needs to be corrected from outside with blueskin or air gap membrane. Or if it’s hydrostatic pressure a drainage system.
Thanks. This really will help me with the tiny leaks I found under my sink. I'm a girl so I wanna make sure I do things right haha. Coz all I found online are for huge holes so this really helps I also ordered a putty knife/scraper, I already have that wired brush, and made sure I don't get both hands wet as the other for mixing with a potable water n the other dry hands if I need more powder cement. Thanks for being detailed, also I learned to also add on areas that may have cracks just in case. Yes yesss I'm excited to play as a handy woman lolz. Water leaks are annoying with the wet floor in my kitchen sink. God bless y'all. ❤
This is the best use. I was struggling with this, but you showed the actual mixing and use. Helped a lot.
When I first moved into my 100 yr old home and removed the false floor and wood panelling in the basement, I discovered a leak via a crack that runs from the window to the floor. I went to HD and they recommended this product. My handyman filled the crack from the inside, I had a dehumidifier running 24/7, and later I sealed some cracks on the outside where the apron had separated from the wall. There have been no leaks since and it was placed in the cracks 3 years ago.
I need gutters, and there was a leaky faucet outside the window which has since been repaired. The wood frame around the window has deteriorated, and there is a little crumbling of the concrete just below the frame, too. My plan is to get the wood frame replaced and inject some concrete repair down the crack at that time to fill it up because I know the handyman only got this product in maybe about a half inch, leaving the rest of the crack exposed on the outside (below ground level).
I have a larger crack on another wall and I don't know if it is underground or open at the top. The top of the crack falls under my enclosed porch. Guess I am going to tear up that floor to check, first, so if it is exposed, the epoxy (or resin, or foam) won't just shoot into thin air. I am doing my research so I'm sure to get the right products.
Can you use this on wood?
Always amazes me fixing basement leaks from the inside lol
Yeah, getting the gutters added to your front is definitely a good idea. Water needs to flow away from the house and if not, it causes foundation issues which can become very costly. We have them at out house and I am looking into different tutorials on how to fix them. Thanks for the video, learned a lot.
is this also applicable if the ones that are leaking is at the floor because it is an underground room and when it is flooding the room is also flooding cause of the leak..thank you
I have a small swimming pool in my basement each time it rains. Covid has tightly squeezed my budget so thank you for the info
Thank you!
If you seal the cracks from the inside, wouldn't the water still seep into the concrete wall and sit there? Still causing damage? Maybe eventually causing the water to find an "alternate route" into the basement? (more cracks). I'm guessing it's best to seal leaks from the outside if possible, preventing any water from leaking in the first place. For instance, a french drain etc. Obviously that would be a huge job for a few small leaks. I have a cellar bulkhead, and water is leaking in, from where the bulkhead wood frame sites on the concrete stairs. I plan to dig down outside of the bulkhead, and try to seal from the outside. This product may help.
This is the same thing I thought about. Wouldn't it be stuck in the walls and build up
Depends on the situation but yeah that's definitely possible
Same thought as yours. Waterproofing project should be done from outside.
I believe it’s a temporary fix
Til you do your foundation
Thanks for your video.
I used this product and it worked and was fun to use! Thanks 4 this video.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks 4 helping!
Great demo! Exactly what I needed to see. Thank you!
Thanks for the video! I like how so many people feel the need to correct your work haha. If they know what to do why watch a video about how to do it!
If you care about your house DO NOT DO THIS!!! Water will still penetrate the foundation/block wall from outside. This will "lock" the moisture in the wall and cause the lime to seep. Eventually, completely ruining your wall. This needs to be done OUTSIDE!!! There is a few products (big$) that will work like this... They allow the wall to "breathe" while still holding back moisture(couldn't tell you how) but please, DON'T DO THIS 👍
Exactly, doing this will trap the water inside the wall.
How do u fix the issue then
@@2aisabsoluteTim start outside. its better to keep water out than trap it in the wall.
@@2aisabsoluteTim I'm guessing epoxy injection.
This stuff will trap the moisture and cause cavitation and the concrete to crumble and breakdown. Mold will set in and spores will propagate all over. It's your health brother....
I highly suggest construction of some mitigation method that will leach/channel/divert water/snow away from your foundation. Dig down and around in small linear sections along your basement as not to disturb the foundational integrity of your home. Apply a rubber, or coat the exterior of the basement walls with a sikaflex product, apply that... Let it dry, then construct a type of French drain to some type of field drain tile and follow your property contour it out away from the structure if at all possible. If it's not feasible all at once do it in steps and phases repeating each step the same as previous in order to keep the effective means to achieve the same outcome. By the way I live in Fargo.... So I know snow...... And Florida rain/hurricanes......not an engineer not a book nerd. Just been doing concrete construction and concrete repair/waterproofing for 20 years.
Xypex does the same thing. The only thing I recommend is chipping out a V shaped groove. I fix cracks and leaks on sites all the time. So getting the grout further in is essential.
Thanks for the video. I just found a leak in my home. I’m definitely going to get this
Thank you just brought a home and I needed this
thanks for video it was good to see someone else do this before I attempted to work with that cement in my basement.
When we built the contractor installed inside french drains. Unfortunately heavy rains occasionally overwhelmed the exterior french drains and then came inside. After a few failed attempts, I finally used hydraulic cement to seal he block to the floor which worked great and we haven't had an issue since.
I recently used drylok on a small section of my basement wall under the stairs entering the basement. The rest of the basement is done with drylok and zero leaks (knock on wood) I may need to use this though because there is a very small section that had an active leak, super minimal, but enough to stop the drylok from actually setting. I used rubber flex seal for now. I will see later when I get home if that dried well. Of course though, lots of rain today and tomorrow for south NJ, Toms River is where my house is. I will be doing investigating later to see if any water got in. Luckily it is still not a lot and it takes about 2 days of heavy rain get any water in the french drains too. Thanks for this video. I will be looking more into this product :)
Did this work ? I live in NY and have little water in one area of my basement when it rains. I was thinking of using this and then DryLock my whole basement.
I recently moved to South Jersey and my basement gets water when it rains for a few days. Thinking about using this stuff in the cove joint. I believe that’s what it’s called where the bricks meet the cement floor, which is where the water seats in.
I’ve used this all over my basement, works great
😁 Yes, love this stuff! Thanks for the comment and for checking out the video!
Does water still enter
About to coat my whole water bearing wall with this.. how long do I wait until I paint with drylok extreme ..?
I saw those keyboards brother don't let them get wet or moist to get in them but I definitely learned something on the channel thank you I'm an international recording on his travel around the world.
I don’t even have a basement, but I love watching your videos. Thanks for sharing your talent.
I heard an Ope! Which Midwestern state are you from?
thanks for sharing! Does it really work in the rainy day? My house has similar problems...
Don't do it in the rain? 🙄
So can u show us an update on the basement did the water stop coming in at this location you corrected
Good video. I learned a couple things just in time as I work on my own basement.
Thank You. I have 3 very small crack leaks. I am going to home depot tomorrow to buy a tub of this.
Why on earth wouldn't you build a house with gutters? No house in the UK is built without gutters for this precise reason. This 'fix' might, if you're lucky, stem any seepage for a while, but without fixing the outside issue, these walls will still get damp. The damage will just leech to another part of the wall, down or even potentially up. And, in fact, you have a bigger problem if the walls hold water, rather than shed it internally.
Well in MInnesota we all have gutters and our home has extended gutters. Many of our neighbors have drainage: drain tile, not sure why they call it that. We got very heavy WET snow yesterday 6-8 inches thunder lightning ⚡️ ⚡️ now it’s 55f and melting! I got a great DEhumidifer! Yet it’s record amounts of snow this year. What other OPTIONS auto keep water OUT??
We have had a few days of rain and just found water leaking in our foundation. We have NO money to hire someone. If we do it ourselves, and this may be a dumb question, won't the water still be leaking into the foundation? If it can't leak into the basement where will it go? My husband was USAF so we have not owned a home as long as most people our age should have and we don't know as much as we should. I think we're going to have to fix it ourselves.
😂😂😂 Sorry but Hydraulic Cement is like a plastic toy in front of a professional leak repair. Best and permanent method is first using Polyurethane sealer, once cured use Roofing Tar (extra waterproofing) and once that is cured use PSI 6000 Cement mix on top of the Tar. This is a permanent repair that will last longer than the owners 🎉
Noob here, isnt trapping moisure in the cement harmful? I keep reading differing opinions
@benjaminhickmann6478 To avoid that you have to torch dry the area before sealing it with Polyurethane. If you don't then you will see bubbles on Polyurethane sealer
I have water seeping up through the basement floor, will this work
So, no need to "ETCH" that cinderblock/cement wall?
My home was built in between 1860 and 1890, were going to purchase some as well.
has this held up okay?
I got my leak making sure I apply pressure to the surface with tools than by hand, our foundation is below the surface and cemented. the water as it drains to the Earth can not be redirected. So Water stop, lay down twice for me, along with Drylock water seal is necessary, the PSI of the product is enough to stop any leak, if asked.
Yes, I think you’re right I need gutters around my house to stop the water from coming in the basement sometimes a plastic bag around the porch and it rained a lot and I helped the whole lot cause I seen a lot of water coming down from the front from the building
I just talked with handyman about this product and he said it's not 100% but it's good for a while.
Thank you, for the info. Thank you also to the viewers in the comment section all information was a great help for me!
This is perfect, because I was about to grab this stuff from Lowe's, but wanted to see a video first before doing so.
Great video. I found that I only had about 2-3 minutes before the cement was unusable. Seeing your mixing / consistency really helped as I worked my way down the crack. As this was a larger crack, I actually did use the 2-part epoxy as the initial fix and it was amazing. Using the hydraulic cement was my step 2 to further seal up the surrounding areas. Really enjoy your channel and your approach to teaching!
Getting this tomorrow. Have a couple active and non active leaks that have been my damn bane for 2 weeks now! Good thing the landlord is taking care of it! Pfffft!!
are you located in MN I am a certified field inspector and can do a free inspection. water problems cannot be solved with menards special patch products😂 you are in need of a complete system and the landlord should fix it the right way to not have further problems in the future.
Thank you for this video! Now I feel much more confident in my diy basement project.
I’m getting ready to reseal a basement in my home. It was built in 52 by my grandmothers 1st husband. I was just curious, now that this project has been done for a bit now, would you still recommend using this or the flex seal that I saw you use in another vid. Thanks for all the info in your videos. I really appreciate it!
Thank you. Very helpful and well-presented.
It would have been better to dampen the surface ahead of the repair. Also, the walls should be washed.
Great video. I have a home in a high-water table area. How far away should my sump pump discharge line be from my home?
at least 6 feet. I live in a high water table area too and mine is 15 feet
That's great for the interior, which I think I'll use in my cold store room, what would you put on the exterior, if exposed to the winter elements, liquid rubber sealant?
Great stuff. I’ve used it years ago.
Thank you. I've been doing it wrong and water started coming in through pin holes. Just got doing it with a trowel and applying it like spackle. Now I know I've been doing it wrong. Supposed to have 3 inches of rain tomorrow so we'll see how it holds. If it doesn't I'm tearing it out and starting over
@exitsun5394 very close lol, PA
@exitsun5394 haha kind of, Eastern PA
I purchased a house about a year ago. The previous owner had made the crawlspace aesthetic looking. Overtime, I saw water leakage. I had a french drain installed.Now, my question is, is that a Band-Aid or is that a solution?
Smiled. I have 15 years of experience in waterproofing. I also use the Sika Plug when needed. But not like that. Video for amateurs.
You should "always wet it first" before to add cement on a surface. Just like Mike Haduck on UT always says!
Never heard that but thanks for the tip. And thanks for watching!
@@TheFixerHomeRepair Like you vids! I aslo used hydraulic cement on my basement, I had humidity/mold issue on one spot, got it clean with chemicals/brushing, and added the cement for extra protection on nails holes, corners. The room has foam isolation and sheet rocks, and it is a play room for kids.
Is this good for larger holes also? Like a 6" hole in concrete block?
Have you done any videos about concrete or cement roof leaks especially from outside to the inside of the ceiling
Good video, good personality style
Do you think this will suffice for sealing cracks in a slab foundation?
Great demo! Clear and concise. Peace and good fortune and good health to you and your family.
Comment and question. We had a house built in 1890-95. Bottom was stone and it had siding. I had a couple companies tell me just fill cracks in with hydraulic cement BUT from the outside. My concern about doing it on the inside is water can push through and I was told I'd have a mess on my hands. That's what I did and all was well. My question is - does putting on the inside really stop it for more than a year and what happened to the cement in rainy areas in a year?
That stuff is amazing!!@ i can attest to it!! I sealed a garage floor that was soaked after every rain... Not a single wet spot now!!!
How’d you do it? I’m having this problem now. Did you do anything with outside of the garage?
Helpful video thanks. I'm interested to know how it's holding up not having installed it per the instructions regarding the specific groove.
So far so good!! Thanks for watching!
Hey! Thanks for the vid! 2 years later - how has this patch held up?
What kind of dry lock paint did you use after the cement? Thanks great video!
That's my* question as well
It's a brand called DryLok
use the one that say extreme.
Btw can you make a video when you paint ur basement please
Hey, nooby! Yes I am planning on making a video, at least a time-lapse of the workshop area! Thanks for watching!
Looking to DIY this in the basement.. front half of rancher has French drain.. backside corner is leaking during the rain. Not a puddle just moist about 6 inches from the wall..Is that a good option?
would it work with tiles in the bathroom? I got a leak along 1 side of the floor and the wall. I plan to open the join between the wall and bathroom floor and fill it up with this. However, I am not sure it will make a good contact with tiles or not. Thanks
If i am finishing the basement should I put dry lock over the hydraulic cement? Or is it just for appearance
Hi, great video!!! How long did you wait until you start to sand it?
@thefixer - thank you for your video. Very helpful! I was wondering if you or someone could confirm before I make a big mess that this technique of applying this stuff when there's not an active leak worked? As you noted, I think, the bucket (under "Precautions") says "only for use to fill active leaks..." I would love however, to do it BEFORE the rainy season gets going... Also, can you comment on which foam option you'd recommend? Thank you!!!!
Is someone upstairs having a great time starting at about 6:24 ? LOL
Haha that was my 23 year old crazy cat. RIP ☹️🐱
Are you not supposed to use a spray bottle and lightly wet the surface you want it to cure too???????????
Not if you’re applying to cracks …best to not apply over cement that isn’t prepped properly
Great video.....can it be used between studs to cement floor ???????