Not necessary you can get a feeler gauge and adjust them all to the same position I had a Honda CB750 and it had four carbs I used every vacuum gauge known to man there was just too much twitchiness in the vacuum gauges no matter what I did to get accurately tuned soon as I did the feeler gauge method and I put them to all the same amount of space with a feeler gauge the thing ripped
@@lifebehindtheselens feeler gauge is good for bench sync, but you should still sync them with the engine running. You can make a synchronizer out of bottles or glass jars and some clear tubing. You fill it with fluid and then observe the levels and tweak the screws until they dont move relative to each other. Im sure there is a name for it, but it works pretty well.
@@lifebehindtheselens feeler gauge syncs the throttle plates. Vacuum gauges or a manometer syncs the idle circuits. (Edit: at least on the carbs I've experienced... imjust assuming weber are the same, tuning-wise.)
Option C. Webbers can be a really deep rabbit hole, even if you're working on the right size. If you don't plan to do a lot of classic builds, gaining the weber wizard skill set might not be worth while.
Number one: I’m very surprised that there’s been no mention of what condition the plugs are in. I would imagine that would be one of the first things you would do is verify the fuel ring to see where it is in relation to the porcelain. That would give you a clear indication if you’re running too rich or too lean. Steve Morris did a tech video about this describing what to look for, and generally where things should be. Highly recommend looking at that, considering that, even when computers are involved, he always checks the plugs to see what’s actually happening with the engine. Number two: as others have said, sync the carburetors with a vacuum gauge. Number three: use a wideband to spot check the fuel mixture. If it looks like it’s matching the plug readings, then you can make quicker changes and avoid pulling the plugs until you feel you’re confident you have what you think you need, then do a final plug reading to check. Lastly, double check that timing is within the range of where you’d like to have it. I would imagine this is still being controlled by the computer, but I’m not sure. If so, just make sure that you use the jumper to set base timing. I’ve never had carburetors on a 4AG, but I was in the AW11 MR2 community for a long time, and a few people there definitely ran them. I’ve had two large port engines and one small port from an AE92. But they were all fuel injected. All naturally aspirated. There was a fair amount of crossover between 86 and aW11 enthusiast, since we share the same engine. Maybe asking over at MR2OC.com might be worthwhile since I imagine there are still people who use them and could speak to them. Bill Strong (bikeboy) was a resource I reached out to often for certain things. He may also know or people who know. One extra thing to keep in mind is that the reason that the Toyota engineers develop the variable intake system on the blue top large port engines is to deal with the lack of velocity at low rpm. The ports are great for flowing high amounts of air, which is one reason why they were used in formula Atlantic, but when it comes to flowing at lower engine speeds, without the aid of some type of restriction, it may not run very well on the street. It may need some type of compromise with the fuel to get a happy medium.
Taylor I think the pump jet in those carbs might be your issue. The idle jet is for idle of course and the main jet is for off idle and mid range and the pump jet is for full throttle acceleration which seems to be your issue. I'd start there and of course make sure you sync the carbs correctly and I bet your issues will be gone.
Hey brotha you need a syncrometer in order to make sure all 4 barrels of the carbs are pulling the same vacuum suction. Once you get that an afr meter would be ideal even setting up a makeshift one by putting a plug lead to the exhaust Tip. I would honestly say 45 webers are the move when it comes to a closer to stock 4ag if you were running a fully built rods pistons and what not then 48s can be tuned up preety close. You can give it a shot. A 45 kit with main jets and air correction jets should do the trick even jumping down a size on the pump jet would help.
I had mikuni 44 s on a built 4age with modestly oversized pistons (can't remember exact specs as it was over 10 yrs ago) the 44s were too big I had 40mm choke blocks in the carbs and even they were big. I was going to install 38s but ended up deciding on a eng swap. Point being 45s would need to be choked down for a mostly stock 4age.
42 to 45mm webers setup correctly will rip!!! Had them on a personal ride in the past with a header far less than your future plans and basic cam/valvetrain upgrade and the car was a pure treat to drive hard!!! It sounded so amazing! No where near fast at all lol but the noises and the experience was an absolute pure smile maker!!!
and too add to that notion, you'll never get the 48's to run right, hat them on a stroked 1.8 4age bored too 82mm? had mild cams, after a year of failure had professional insight, he suggested larger cams to give it a fighting chance as the 48's were for "Racing only" that didnt work, after another year of fighting with them it washed out the bores so bad the block was basically toast, and it ran slightly better than your setup taylor. ripped from 5k-8k rpm, absolute dogshit low to mid range. Good luck my friend
The secret to Webbers is the ability to tune them. They can perform perfect even if they are too big or too small. Italians use 48s even on 2lt engines. Race 1.6s with big cams can really benefit from 45s or 48s. Order jet kits, a vacuum gauge and maybe really big cams? I don't think you will dislike the result. Love you Taylor.
I once had way to much accelerator pump on my Dellorto 40s. So I backed them off. It made a huge difference. Also make sure both carbs idle screws are set identical. Both come off idle at the exact same time. I’m sure your going to get it figured out. Don’t give up on the Webber’s.
What has helped me tuning my carbs is the gunson colourtune and vacuum gauge. it takes alot of the guess work out. Remember sometimes you may have to check you dwell on the dizzy depending on your setup and also timing. I'm sure you've already done this. keep up the great content
48s will give you a low end bog, you can mitigate that by putting smaller choke tubes in them. I'd probabaly run down a smaller choke tube. It will help it stand up better on tip in because of the air velocity change across the choke tube. As far as knockoff webers. I'd stay away. The castings aren't that great. A good set of real webers are the jam. I went thru the whole process of tuning a 50mm weber on my full bridgeport 12a rotary which might help you in theory because I too had a carb way too big for the setup. However I'll tell you this much, the 50mm with 48 chokes flat ripped up top. But the drivability was bad. Changed to 43mm chokes and jetted down and albeit lost some top end power. It woke up the midrange and made it much more drivable.
fresh plugs, synchronize the carbs(easy tbh), set timing with a light, and get fuel pressure set and solid and thatll help a ton. then you can just rejet to dial it perfect
I think your concerns about the size are spot on. 48s are really big for that engine. But it sounds like more of a tuning issue. Sounds like it has a constant miss at idle. Check for vacuum leaks.
I used to have dual double dellarto carbs(which weber is essentially a newer version of) on my old school VW beetle and it ripped, but the real key is to have them matched to each other when tuning them. Get yourself a carb vacuum adjuster (the one that you hold into each venturi tube) and tune them to match and it's the dif between night and day! It takes a little while going back and forth, but brother I promise you it helps so much!
I was impressed he broke both of the carbs down at the time. I could have done it 100 times before and know damn good and well how it goes back together but I’m still gonna leave one assembled for reference
I love the Mr Krabs tippity tappity sound of the FCR carbs. I've heard nobuteru taniguchi on hot version describing the FCR carbs, when properly tuned, feel like fuel injection.
When cleaning carbs I have a guitar string or a torch tip cleaner on hand and run it through every hole to try and scrape and crud out. Trick my dad taught me 😅
I had a pretty similar mid throttle bog on my 45 dcoe on my 13b. Was able to fix it by changing out the emulsion tube and main jet. The three fuel circuits in a Webber are a pain in the ass to make work together especially when your are running too large of a carb.
Me again. Option C for sure dude, i love my fcr41's on my mk1 golf! It would make my day to see them on your 86. The noise and ease of tuning is well worth it man
Taylor I'd recommend buying new 45mm dcoes & ask if they can be jetted to suit the engine size. I've used both 40mm dcoes & 45mm dcoes, & 40's use a completely different way to align the Auxiliary Venturi, which is what puts fuel into the carby throat. If one of these Ventura's turns, you lose the main circuit for that cylinder. Not good as the engine will idle perfectly until you put load on it, and then you lose a cylinder. Very frustrating. Also, could you hook up the air mixture sensor that's in the exhaust to a gauge, that would tell you if the engine is going lean or rich. Saves a lot of guessing.
Sell the two carb sets and get the new flat side carbs. But also definitely buy a synchronization tool so you can have the carbs air/fuel mixture set up right
The front bearings go out like every two years if you track it. Swapped my front setup to schassis knuckles brakes and coilovers mainly for better front hubs that do last 20years, plus ease of maintenance upgrades and brake selection.
Definitely go for the flat slide carbs!! I love the bike carbs the most myself, but for what you want I would go for the flats all day long. Keep up the amazing work and content, and I can't say how much I love seeing this little 86 on the channel!
Don't forget the the flote are adjustable. I'm sure your carbs have a low speed jet, mid-range is your needle, hi speed is your main jet.Main jet affects the hole range but is mostly for wide open. Plug reading is a must. Yep Franklin is right,vacum gauge is a nust. Go to you local motorcycle shop for some jets to get you going
SYNCEONIZe THE CARBS!!!!! also an o2 sensor will make life soooo much easier. Also also you could get smaller "choke" venturi tubes to put inside the webber to turn your 48s to 45s/etc! I think i saw a comment saying this but getting really familiar with carbs is a pretty involved process. I would suggest finding a good webber guy in the area and having help get the car running proper would be ideal. also also webbers are never the best when it comes to throttle tip in and light throttle application. There are no secondary butterflys so car gets a lot of air immidiatly regardless when compared to holley equivalent/ etc
I agree with option C. Flat slides looks sweet This depicts why EFI became so popular for "commuter" cars. Seems incredibly tedious dealing with carbs, only because of nostalgia, is it worth it.
Yes Taylor love this build. It’s very similar to my 86 bar mines a Levin hatch but also on Webber carbs and they sound spot on. Brilliant series (I also need to rebuild my carbs so this video helped a bunch)
You need a syncrometer to dial in the air flow then a vacuum gauge to adjust the idle air fuel mixture n if ya cant read the plug if it’s rich or lean then install a wideband!!
Taylor, please for the love of 4age, get a wideband put on it as soon as possible. Tuning this blindly wont get you very far. As long as carbs go, the CV bike carbs worked good because they have vacuum slides which compensate for any misadjustment. CV carbs dont have as snappy of a throttle response, but they are by far the easiest to live with, i daily a car with set of keihin CVRs. Flat slides are bit more difficult to get right from what i have heard, but it should still be better than ancient webers. The nice thing about cv carbs is that you can mash the throttle and they wont stutter, its like efi when tuned right. The reason why it was difficult to start is that the choke is much more sensitive than on traditional carbs and rather than choking air it usually opens up a passage for more fuel. I would stick to the CVs for your first individual carb experience, get the right jets, balance them, figure out the choke and you will love them.
@@ConnorPawlowski yeah, efi is on another level in terms of usability. But if he wants carbs then fuel injection wont do it for him i think. I have ran keihins on my renault c1j engine for 5 years now, it came with a crappy single barrel carb so bike carbs helped a lot, i want to try bike itbs with a speeduino one day. Changing jets is starting to get annoying and you need a lot more dyno time if you also want to know the numbers.
I fought the same issue with my triumph spitfire. Has dual hs4 carbs and a BIG cam. Needed a synchronizer. 1 carb was pulling way more vacuum. Once I got them synced I lowered the idle and changed timing. Car has ran great since
Taylor you need a vacuum syncroniser to ballance the webbers it is placed over each trumpet and you set the carbs it gives a correct setting find an old school tuner they will have one cheers from down under
you need to sync the carbs first.. and make small adjustments. multi carbs need to be synced together. (Hack - put a a/f guage on the exhaust and see what she is needing to help with the tuning) then remove when done. Love the videos and all the builds
i would go with option C definitely cooler carb setup to pair with the spaghetti header, better service-ability, and definitely more of a hot boy setup.
I know from messing around with webers on my own cars for a while that they usually drive on the idle circuit for a lot longer than you would imagine, around the RPM that it cleared up (about 3500rpm) is usually when it changes to the main jets. Adjusting the main jets first is usually just going to cause you more issues. Tune the idle circuit first! It seems like it is way too rich on the idle circuit as I had the exact same issue with a Beetle running dual 36IDF webers and I had to get smaller idle jets, then it drove perfect!
Do you have a uni-syn? Side Drafts are a dark art. You will never get anywhere unless your carbs are synced first. Also, I recommend a wideband O2. This is coming from a guy with triple carbs on a 240z.
I’m unsure how you feel about diesel performance but would you ever consider a diesel Mercedes build, for drift or whatever else? Like a w210 e300td with the super capable om606 motor? You’d love that thing
Hey Taylor, I had a similar issue with my Webber carbs on my Vauxhall nova, it would idle great and once you get it past the dead spot it would rev up, I took it to a Webber expert and it turns out there’s a bit of a problem with the factory Progression hole size which won’t allow enough air past the butterfly’s on tip in, what he did was re drill the holes slightly bigger and at a 45deg angle allowing more air on tip in which fixed the problem for me, also if the float level is not correct this can also cause a similar issue, I hope this helps !
If you can get them over there get yourself some twin dellorto dhla carbs, they are so much more tuneable than webbbers made a massive difference on my build swapping over.
I even commented on the first video its running rich, glad its finally been worked out slightly carb cars are happier with less fuel flow compared to air especially if there oversized for the motor
You should look into the sure shot chemical sprayer for brake clean and buy it by the drum. Would save you a good bit of money in the long run and use the cans for the track
Trying to tune webers with the idle mixture screw and drilling out the air correctors won’t get you very far.. you really need an O2 sensor & jet kit and do a bit of reading up on how to tune them
So happy to see the AE86 getting some attention. Tuning an old set of carbs is the purest gearhead experience. Great vid, can't wait for the next one 👍🏻👍🏻
hey, so you dont have to buy jets all the time, plug the jets with soldering iron wire and redrill them using a drill bit kit for carbs that comes with small drill bits, I do it all the time on vws, used quite a bit on webers, it works perfectly
im voting option c for the car, it sounded sick and it sounds easier than the first two options
Agreed it will never run right on the Webbers lol
Yeah flatslides ftw, they’ll perform really well! And are way easier to manage then the webers.
Flat slides....just sayin....your not gonna be satisfied unless you do....
A vacuum gauge would help synchronize the carbs for idle air.
Not necessary you can get a feeler gauge and adjust them all to the same position I had a Honda CB750 and it had four carbs I used every vacuum gauge known to man there was just too much twitchiness in the vacuum gauges no matter what I did to get accurately tuned soon as I did the feeler gauge method and I put them to all the same amount of space with a feeler gauge the thing ripped
@@lifebehindtheselens feeler gauge is good for bench sync, but you should still sync them with the engine running. You can make a synchronizer out of bottles or glass jars and some clear tubing. You fill it with fluid and then observe the levels and tweak the screws until they dont move relative to each other. Im sure there is a name for it, but it works pretty well.
EGT probes too, I think. maybe...
@@martinbernath manometer. Pretty easy to diy with some tubing, plastic fittings, and vacuum restrictions. (I built one for my motorcycles.)
@@lifebehindtheselens feeler gauge syncs the throttle plates. Vacuum gauges or a manometer syncs the idle circuits.
(Edit: at least on the carbs I've experienced... imjust assuming weber are the same, tuning-wise.)
Option C. Webbers can be a really deep rabbit hole, even if you're working on the right size. If you don't plan to do a lot of classic builds, gaining the weber wizard skill set might not be worth while.
Number one: I’m very surprised that there’s been no mention of what condition the plugs are in. I would imagine that would be one of the first things you would do is verify the fuel ring to see where it is in relation to the porcelain. That would give you a clear indication if you’re running too rich or too lean. Steve Morris did a tech video about this describing what to look for, and generally where things should be. Highly recommend looking at that, considering that, even when computers are involved, he always checks the plugs to see what’s actually happening with the engine.
Number two: as others have said, sync the carburetors with a vacuum gauge.
Number three: use a wideband to spot check the fuel mixture. If it looks like it’s matching the plug readings, then you can make quicker changes and avoid pulling the plugs until you feel you’re confident you have what you think you need, then do a final plug reading to check.
Lastly, double check that timing is within the range of where you’d like to have it. I would imagine this is still being controlled by the computer, but I’m not sure. If so, just make sure that you use the jumper to set base timing.
I’ve never had carburetors on a 4AG, but I was in the AW11 MR2 community for a long time, and a few people there definitely ran them. I’ve had two large port engines and one small port from an AE92. But they were all fuel injected. All naturally aspirated. There was a fair amount of crossover between 86 and aW11 enthusiast, since we share the same engine. Maybe asking over at MR2OC.com might be worthwhile since I imagine there are still people who use them and could speak to them. Bill Strong (bikeboy) was a resource I reached out to often for certain things. He may also know or people who know.
One extra thing to keep in mind is that the reason that the Toyota engineers develop the variable intake system on the blue top large port engines is to deal with the lack of velocity at low rpm. The ports are great for flowing high amounts of air, which is one reason why they were used in formula Atlantic, but when it comes to flowing at lower engine speeds, without the aid of some type of restriction, it may not run very well on the street. It may need some type of compromise with the fuel to get a happy medium.
i love the commentary from behind the camera. best addition to the channel yet.
Taylor I think the pump jet in those carbs might be your issue. The idle jet is for idle of course and the main jet is for off idle and mid range and the pump jet is for full throttle acceleration which seems to be your issue. I'd start there and of course make sure you sync the carbs correctly and I bet your issues will be gone.
Hey brotha you need a syncrometer in order to make sure all 4 barrels of the carbs are pulling the same vacuum suction. Once you get that an afr meter would be ideal even setting up a makeshift one by putting a plug lead to the exhaust Tip.
I would honestly say 45 webers are the move when it comes to a closer to stock 4ag if you were running a fully built rods pistons and what not then 48s can be tuned up preety close. You can give it a shot. A 45 kit with main jets and air correction jets should do the trick even jumping down a size on the pump jet would help.
I had mikuni 44 s on a built 4age with modestly oversized pistons (can't remember exact specs as it was over 10 yrs ago) the 44s were too big I had 40mm choke blocks in the carbs and even they were big. I was going to install 38s but ended up deciding on a eng swap. Point being 45s would need to be choked down for a mostly stock 4age.
Would be good to get an O2 on that thing to know what the A/F ratio actually is through the rpm band
got idea
Yeah. That’s a great point. Hopefully Taylor sees this.
this isn't an LS it's old school you have to read your plugs to know what it's doing
@Charles Torruella a wideband o2 is more precise but plug reading works too.
@@charlestorruella8591 plug reading wont tell you where its lean, all its tells you is that its lean somewhere.
42 to 45mm webers setup correctly will rip!!! Had them on a personal ride in the past with a header far less than your future plans and basic cam/valvetrain upgrade and the car was a pure treat to drive hard!!! It sounded so amazing! No where near fast at all lol but the noises and the experience was an absolute pure smile maker!!!
and too add to that notion, you'll never get the 48's to run right, hat them on a stroked 1.8 4age bored too 82mm? had mild cams, after a year of failure had professional insight, he suggested larger cams to give it a fighting chance as the 48's were for "Racing only" that didnt work, after another year of fighting with them it washed out the bores so bad the block was basically toast, and it ran slightly better than your setup taylor. ripped from 5k-8k rpm, absolute dogshit low to mid range. Good luck my friend
I vote option D get a wide band before you melt a piston. It appeared very lean but you wont really know unless you can measure.
The secret to Webbers is the ability to tune them. They can perform perfect even if they are too big or too small. Italians use 48s even on 2lt engines. Race 1.6s with big cams can really benefit from 45s or 48s. Order jet kits, a vacuum gauge and maybe really big cams? I don't think you will dislike the result. Love you Taylor.
Realy like that Josue is more involved in the video! gives a great dynamic!
Ngl I love the way you voice over your videos bro I’ve learned so much just from watching you over the years
I put flat slides on my bike and I love them. I vote you go with the flat slides all day
Option C for sure ! That idol was amazing .
I deal with side draft Webber's all the time, a set of 40s would go great on that car. 45s are also going to be to big
I once had way to much accelerator pump on my Dellorto 40s. So I backed them off. It made a huge difference. Also make sure both carbs idle screws are set identical. Both come off idle at the exact same time. I’m sure your going to get it figured out. Don’t give up on the Webber’s.
What has helped me tuning my carbs is the gunson colourtune and vacuum gauge. it takes alot of the guess work out. Remember sometimes you may have to check you dwell on the dizzy depending on your setup and also timing. I'm sure you've already done this. keep up the great content
48s will give you a low end bog, you can mitigate that by putting smaller choke tubes in them. I'd probabaly run down a smaller choke tube. It will help it stand up better on tip in because of the air velocity change across the choke tube.
As far as knockoff webers. I'd stay away. The castings aren't that great. A good set of real webers are the jam.
I went thru the whole process of tuning a 50mm weber on my full bridgeport 12a rotary which might help you in theory because I too had a carb way too big for the setup. However I'll tell you this much, the 50mm with 48 chokes flat ripped up top. But the drivability was bad. Changed to 43mm chokes and jetted down and albeit lost some top end power. It woke up the midrange and made it much more drivable.
fresh plugs, synchronize the carbs(easy tbh), set timing with a light, and get fuel pressure set and solid and thatll help a ton. then you can just rejet to dial it perfect
I'm a fan of the webers so I vote for them plus a wide band and a sync tool. I think it should be very possible to get those webers running right!
Bought a set of 40mm webers for my datsun 120y a while back, havent installed them yet but i'm way more motivated after watching the vid.
I think your concerns about the size are spot on. 48s are really big for that engine. But it sounds like more of a tuning issue. Sounds like it has a constant miss at idle. Check for vacuum leaks.
Yeah I wouldn’t have gone with anything over 45 on a 1600 tbh
Would love to see some old school street drifting with you and Chelsea in the '86s
I used to have dual double dellarto carbs(which weber is essentially a newer version of) on my old school VW beetle and it ripped, but the real key is to have them matched to each other when tuning them. Get yourself a carb vacuum adjuster (the one that you hold into each venturi tube) and tune them to match and it's the dif between night and day! It takes a little while going back and forth, but brother I promise you it helps so much!
I was impressed he broke both of the carbs down at the time. I could have done it 100 times before and know damn good and well how it goes back together but I’m still gonna leave one assembled for reference
Get you a good ultrasonic bath. You are gonna need it if you run carbs on anything.
Josue talking from behind the camera works great. Taylor will make a star out of this man
I love the Mr Krabs tippity tappity sound of the FCR carbs. I've heard nobuteru taniguchi on hot version describing the FCR carbs, when properly tuned, feel like fuel injection.
When cleaning carbs I have a guitar string or a torch tip cleaner on hand and run it through every hole to try and scrape and crud out. Trick my dad taught me 😅
I had a pretty similar mid throttle bog on my 45 dcoe on my 13b. Was able to fix it by changing out the emulsion tube and main jet. The three fuel circuits in a Webber are a pain in the ass to make work together especially when your are running too large of a carb.
Me again. Option C for sure dude, i love my fcr41's on my mk1 golf! It would make my day to see them on your 86. The noise and ease of tuning is well worth it man
Ahh the good ol carby days😂 ,Reminds me of the struggles I had when my datsun had Duel Sidies ,Then we went EFI ITB SR20VVL 🎉
Ultrasonic bath cleans the carbs really well thats what I used on my 45 weebers
You can hear in your voice you already know what you want, option 3 and be hyped and enjoy it. 👍
Vac gauge, af gauge and a box of jets. Webers are the coolest way to go!
Taylor I'd recommend buying new 45mm dcoes & ask if they can be jetted to suit the engine size. I've used both 40mm dcoes & 45mm dcoes, & 40's use a completely different way to align the Auxiliary Venturi, which is what puts fuel into the carby throat. If one of these Ventura's turns, you lose the main circuit for that cylinder. Not good as the engine will idle perfectly until you put load on it, and then you lose a cylinder. Very frustrating. Also, could you hook up the air mixture sensor that's in the exhaust to a gauge, that would tell you if the engine is going lean or rich. Saves a lot of guessing.
As long as all the emulation tubes, needles and seat, and jets are clean and not damaged you don't need to replace them
Sell the two carb sets and get the new flat side carbs. But also definitely buy a synchronization tool so you can have the carbs air/fuel mixture set up right
Flat slides sound freaking awesome!
The front bearings go out like every two years if you track it. Swapped my front setup to schassis knuckles brakes and coilovers mainly for better front hubs that do last 20years, plus ease of maintenance upgrades and brake selection.
Definitely go for the flat slide carbs!! I love the bike carbs the most myself, but for what you want I would go for the flats all day long.
Keep up the amazing work and content, and I can't say how much I love seeing this little 86 on the channel!
Don't forget the the flote are adjustable. I'm sure your carbs have a low speed jet, mid-range is your needle, hi speed is your main jet.Main jet affects the hole range but is mostly for wide open. Plug reading is a must. Yep Franklin is right,vacum gauge is a nust. Go to you local motorcycle shop for some jets to get you going
The flat slides are sick
SYNCEONIZe THE CARBS!!!!! also an o2 sensor will make life soooo much easier. Also also you could get smaller "choke" venturi tubes to put inside the webber to turn your 48s to 45s/etc!
I think i saw a comment saying this but getting really familiar with carbs is a pretty involved process. I would suggest finding a good webber guy in the area and having help get the car running proper would be ideal.
also also webbers are never the best when it comes to throttle tip in and light throttle application. There are no secondary butterflys so car gets a lot of air immidiatly regardless when compared to holley equivalent/ etc
I see the attraction of vintage builds, but man, you got a lotta cars !
Taylor Ray videos make my world go round
I'm on board for option 3/C, the slide carbs. They sound amazing, and it'll be something different from everyone's 86!
Flat slides are sick
I agree with option C. Flat slides looks sweet
This depicts why EFI became so popular for "commuter" cars. Seems incredibly tedious dealing with carbs, only because of nostalgia, is it worth it.
Yes Taylor love this build. It’s very similar to my 86 bar mines a Levin hatch but also on Webber carbs and they sound spot on. Brilliant series (I also need to rebuild my carbs so this video helped a bunch)
It’s about time !!!! Iv been waiting to see this one in action BUT I REALLY REALLY wanna see more monte Carlo content!
You need a syncrometer to dial in the air flow then a vacuum gauge to adjust the idle air fuel mixture n if ya cant read the plug if it’s rich or lean then install a wideband!!
Jenvey Heritage DCOE throttle bodies would give you the old school look with injectors and modern tech!
Taylor, please for the love of 4age, get a wideband put on it as soon as possible. Tuning this blindly wont get you very far. As long as carbs go, the CV bike carbs worked good because they have vacuum slides which compensate for any misadjustment. CV carbs dont have as snappy of a throttle response, but they are by far the easiest to live with, i daily a car with set of keihin CVRs. Flat slides are bit more difficult to get right from what i have heard, but it should still be better than ancient webers. The nice thing about cv carbs is that you can mash the throttle and they wont stutter, its like efi when tuned right. The reason why it was difficult to start is that the choke is much more sensitive than on traditional carbs and rather than choking air it usually opens up a passage for more fuel. I would stick to the CVs for your first individual carb experience, get the right jets, balance them, figure out the choke and you will love them.
It's painful, honestly fuel injection on this engine is the right answer... coming from a guy with 4age16v bigport 7 rib
@@ConnorPawlowski yeah, efi is on another level in terms of usability. But if he wants carbs then fuel injection wont do it for him i think. I have ran keihins on my renault c1j engine for 5 years now, it came with a crappy single barrel carb so bike carbs helped a lot, i want to try bike itbs with a speeduino one day. Changing jets is starting to get annoying and you need a lot more dyno time if you also want to know the numbers.
Jossue seems like such a solid homie 🙌
Really enjoying the variety in content lately
option 3 flat slides are awsome !!!!!!!!!
Flat slide I remember those from my motorcycle days
Flat slides would be sick!
I fought the same issue with my triumph spitfire. Has dual hs4 carbs and a BIG cam. Needed a synchronizer. 1 carb was pulling way more vacuum. Once I got them synced I lowered the idle and changed timing. Car has ran great since
The ring and pinion both got the same type of wear on my old AE86 rear end. Switched to a Modception 1.5way axle and never looked back.
There's normally a heat sheild under the distributor. If you can't find one, you have the skills to make one.
Big fan of the fcr's way easier to set up I hope that's where things end up
Love the jump cut intros haha it feels like an Edgar Wright movie
Taylor you need a vacuum syncroniser to ballance the webbers it is placed over each trumpet and you set the carbs it gives a correct setting find an old school tuner they will have one cheers from down under
I was gonna go for B but that noise got me sold. C all the way, flat sliders!
FLAT SIDE CARBS!!! You know you wanna, mate :) I think it'll end up be the best option in the end imo.
you need to sync the carbs first.. and make small adjustments. multi carbs need to be synced together. (Hack - put a a/f guage on the exhaust and see what she is needing to help with the tuning) then remove when done. Love the videos and all the builds
i was watching Jimmy Oakes last video when phone notification just pop up . Taylor Ray new video. Fast switch tabs and watch before goodnight.
Jet kit, vacuum tuner and an o2 sensor just to be sure!
Flat slides Yes! Thats a no brainer!
i would go with option C
definitely cooler carb setup to pair with the spaghetti header, better service-ability, and definitely more of a hot boy setup.
Flatslides are sick
Flat slides are absolutly sick, 100% flat slide
Flat slides!! So sick
Flat slide carbs for sure! Those sound super sick!
Option C 100000% sounds sick
I know from messing around with webers on my own cars for a while that they usually drive on the idle circuit for a lot longer than you would imagine, around the RPM that it cleared up (about 3500rpm) is usually when it changes to the main jets.
Adjusting the main jets first is usually just going to cause you more issues.
Tune the idle circuit first!
It seems like it is way too rich on the idle circuit as I had the exact same issue with a Beetle running dual 36IDF webers and I had to get smaller idle jets, then it drove perfect!
Joswag needs his flowers that man is the sheetttt
You need an ITB synchrometer, this will help with distribution of air to each cylinder and make the car run better
Do you have a uni-syn? Side Drafts are a dark art. You will never get anywhere unless your carbs are synced first. Also, I recommend a wideband O2. This is coming from a guy with triple carbs on a 240z.
My favourite project. Either the knock-off kit or preferable the flat slide carbs. Those sound superior
I’m unsure how you feel about diesel performance but would you ever consider a diesel Mercedes build, for drift or whatever else? Like a w210 e300td with the super capable om606 motor? You’d love that thing
Hell yeah 😊 loved the vid, and awesome to hear Josue chatting more in the vids as well 🤘
Option D- In the spirit of doing things properly just get 20v quads and be done with it. Thats where you'll end up eventually anyway.
Spark plug test! Go WOT shut it off without idling and pull plugs and check color.
Hey Taylor, I had a similar issue with my Webber carbs on my Vauxhall nova, it would idle great and once you get it past the dead spot it would rev up, I took it to a Webber expert and it turns out there’s a bit of a problem with the factory Progression hole size which won’t allow enough air past the butterfly’s on tip in, what he did was re drill the holes slightly bigger and at a 45deg angle allowing more air on tip in which fixed the problem for me, also if the float level is not correct this can also cause a similar issue, I hope this helps !
+1 for the flat slides 😎
If you can get them over there get yourself some twin dellorto dhla carbs, they are so much more tuneable than webbbers made a massive difference on my build swapping over.
I even commented on the first video its running rich, glad its finally been worked out slightly carb cars are happier with less fuel flow compared to air especially if there oversized for the motor
You should look into the sure shot chemical sprayer for brake clean and buy it by the drum. Would save you a good bit of money in the long run and use the cans for the track
sounds like a nice fab project with the flats
Trying to tune webers with the idle mixture screw and drilling out the air correctors won’t get you very far.. you really need an O2 sensor & jet kit and do a bit of reading up on how to tune them
So happy to see the AE86 getting some attention. Tuning an old set of carbs is the purest gearhead experience. Great vid, can't wait for the next one 👍🏻👍🏻
I'm voting for flat side carb that sounds like the best option as they sound great.
Dude, flat slide carbs for sure. WAY cool and fun
hey, so you dont have to buy jets all the time, plug the jets with soldering iron wire and redrill them using a drill bit kit for carbs that comes with small drill bits, I do it all the time on vws, used quite a bit on webers, it works perfectly
definitely the flat slides 🔥
Option C sounds the best in my opinion