Wish I watched this before I started my project...I was squeezing out the foam brush and doing a painting motion and it sure as hell does leave some little air bubbles...
After the sponge runs dry, how do you tie in with another run? Do you come back into the initial run (from the opposite direction to the initial), since you kinda have a notion of how long a wet run will be, and continue in that manner?
I bought a butcher block for a desk and i wish i watched this before I did it. I definitely tried to paint it on and on the first side I definitely made a mess
I've done two small console tables. Stained them, and used a foam brush and it turned out really good. Just do the "tip off" technique after you work in the poly to remove any air bubbles. Check out the videos from winmax.
Great video and informative! Subscribed. Anyone out there to help? I'm doing poly on kitchen cabinets. They have some recesses and I'm having trouble with stroke mark when the grain changes direction. Even after drying and 'settling' still marks.
Thank you very much. For the grain direction question, if you see brush marks there are a Number of ways to avoide them. Possibly the poly is too thick and not settling down. Maybe thin it out a bit and keep a wet edge on your brush at all times. Possibly use spray poly to get a base coverage once dried follow up with a few coats of brush on. The ideal way is to spray if there are multiple profiles. Hope this helped.
@@JoePalumbo221 oh my gosh. You're fast. Thank you. I'm using H2O based and foam brush. Right now on cabinet frame. This is my first time...virgin.lol. I was thinking of trying a bit thicker and if that doesnt work, maybe taping off when the grain changes (allowing proper dry time). Love the videos. Love how you are honest and explain like a beginner would understand. Wish my dad was here to ask questions but you are a great replacement teacher. Thank you!
@@JoePalumbo221 Thank you again. I'm researching 'sprayers' for my poly coats. Looking at possibly renting or possibly purchasing. I will eventually be painting paneled doors so leaning towards a purchase. Thank for the suggestion.
Storing oil-based finishes and varnish can be a problem. The leftovers skin over or thicken and become useless. Bloxygen is the fix! Use this inert gas and you can store leftovers for years. See www.bloxygen.com for more. Also see Bloxygen Videos at ua-cam.com/video/zHMdkZcqSUY/v-deo.html or our 60 Second Storage Tip at ua-cam.com/video/1nOINqPCt7Q/v-deo.html. Works every time.
Usually if I am finishing somthing I will what's appropriate for the job. If its something like stairs or similar that I know will require yearly maintenance do to intended use, I'll use regular methods and standard brushes. If it something I really want to showcase , then I will make attempts to use the proper brushes and techniques. Thanks for your comments.
Joe Palumbo221 thanks for your replies. It’s much appreciated. So If someone were experiencing slight ‘bubbling’ would you think a brush is responsible for it? I haven’t used a foam one yet for applying any coats of poly
Don't do what I did. I used my nice $15 purdy brush to poly coat my first cabinet project. The brush is harder than a diamond handed $GME hodler. Came here to learn how to clean my 6" foam roller brush after my second poly coat. Gotcha, throwing it away.
Exactly the information I was looking for. Thx!
Thanks.
Good tips...looks great!
Very Good Video !!
Wish I watched this before I started my project...I was squeezing out the foam brush and doing a painting motion and it sure as hell does leave some little air bubbles...
After the sponge runs dry, how do you tie in with another run? Do you come back into the initial run (from the opposite direction to the initial), since you kinda have a notion of how long a wet run will be, and continue in that manner?
Yes. Usually I will come in from the other direction making sure my brush is wet.
I bought a butcher block for a desk and i wish i watched this before I did it. I definitely tried to paint it on and on the first side I definitely made a mess
Yes it can get messy if the foam brush is soaked. Dab it on the corners of the can to control the amount you want to put on the wood.
What about the risers?
Thanks!
good tips
Turn it around n dip again. Both sides r already submerged if anything just double dip
Now i did it fuckin stuck in my head
You sound like you have some humor and a sexy voice!!!!! Thanks for sharing, I was debating on using a sponge brush or soft cloth for a stair rail.
They recommend not to use foam brush with polyurethane cause of air bubbles/streaks. How did it work for you?
I've done two small console tables. Stained them, and used a foam brush and it turned out really good. Just do the "tip off" technique after you work in the poly to remove any air bubbles. Check out the videos from winmax.
Great video and informative! Subscribed. Anyone out there to help? I'm doing poly on kitchen cabinets. They have some recesses and I'm having trouble with stroke mark when the grain changes direction. Even after drying and 'settling' still marks.
Thank you very much. For the grain direction question, if you see brush marks there are a Number of ways to avoide them. Possibly the poly is too thick and not settling down. Maybe thin it out a bit and keep a wet edge on your brush at all times. Possibly use spray poly to get a base coverage once dried follow up with a few coats of brush on. The ideal way is to spray if there are multiple profiles. Hope this helped.
@@JoePalumbo221 oh my gosh. You're fast. Thank you. I'm using H2O based and foam brush. Right now on cabinet frame. This is my first time...virgin.lol. I was thinking of trying a bit thicker and if that doesnt work, maybe taping off when the grain changes (allowing proper dry time). Love the videos. Love how you are honest and explain like a beginner would understand. Wish my dad was here to ask questions but you are a great replacement teacher. Thank you!
@@JoePalumbo221
Thank you again. I'm researching 'sprayers' for my poly coats. Looking at possibly renting or possibly purchasing. I will eventually be painting paneled doors so leaning towards a purchase. Thank for the suggestion.
Storing oil-based finishes and varnish can be a problem. The leftovers skin over or thicken and become useless. Bloxygen is the fix! Use this inert gas and you can store leftovers for years.
See www.bloxygen.com for more. Also see Bloxygen Videos at ua-cam.com/video/zHMdkZcqSUY/v-deo.html or our 60 Second Storage Tip at ua-cam.com/video/1nOINqPCt7Q/v-deo.html. Works every time.
some simple METHODS.
Why not just show us how to apply polyurethane by actually applying polyurethane instead of just pretending, doesn't make sense...
Do you apply 2 coats ?
On stairs I usually apply lots of coats. Maybe 4 or 5 considering they get a lot of abuse.
Joe Palumbo221 thanks boss! Also you recommend reg brush to start off with, and finish last coats with a foam ?
Usually if I am finishing somthing I will what's appropriate for the job. If its something like stairs or similar that I know will require yearly maintenance do to intended use, I'll use regular methods and standard brushes. If it something I really want to showcase , then I will make attempts to use the proper brushes and techniques. Thanks for your comments.
Joe Palumbo221 thanks for your replies. It’s much appreciated.
So If someone were experiencing slight ‘bubbling’ would you think a brush is responsible for it? I haven’t used a foam one yet for applying any coats of poly
Using a foam brush will always leave bubbles. The question is, will be acceptable for you? On some applications, I don't mind.
Don't do what I did. I used my nice $15 purdy brush to poly coat my first cabinet project. The brush is harder than a diamond handed $GME hodler. Came here to learn how to clean my 6" foam roller brush after my second poly coat. Gotcha, throwing it away.