Just built the jig from the plans and I have one suggestion! For people using this with a router table I would recommend using 1/4" plywood as the base instead of 1/2" plywood, as routers can't reach up as high as a table saw blade. I had to extend my router bit up from the collet higher than normal and got some predictable chatter as a result. I ended up using a mortising bit to take a quarter inch off of the bottom of the jig (and used a 1/4" piece of plywood to stabilize it as I got more than halfway done) and now it works perfectly!
I used your plans and worked great but one suggestion is to add removable 1/4" plywood to your jig. Having the spline cut with a 'zero clearance' at the exit is really imprtant when using a dado BUT where I screwed up was not allowing for a smaller spline after initially cutting at 1/2" wide. My next project using 1/8" splines had a lot of tear out so I added cheap scrap plywood 'faces' to the jig and now have a 'plate' I can remove and add a new one if I have a new width of spline. I also like your 'sandpaper' table! Can't believe I never thought of that!!!
I just finished building this jig, and I am really excited to use it. I did have have one issue where two of the screws broke off when trying to remove them, luckily both on the same side so I should be fine as long as I don’t pass the whole jig through the saw, but I wish I had thought to wax the screws before the glue up to keep them from sticking after the glue dried. I may try to core the screws out eventually or just rebuild the jig later as I plan to make frames frequently.
Just a suggestion. Mark very prominently on the box with a sharpie or something were the screws are where you will see them so you don't forget. I know sooner or later I would forget. Or if close enough to the edges, just rip to make the jig narrower and minus the screws.
I just began my journey n2 splines 4 the boxes I make. I've been practicing on blocks of scrap wood b4 I take on a box. I'm just so paranoid I'll mess it up. thx 4 the pull saw tips.
It's the little things like, how to cut the spline avoiding cracking that I really appreciate. So much that I would love to see you using the dust mask at 12:20 when sanding, so you're around making this excellent content for ages. Respect on the great video.
Warning: Timestamp 4:53 -- Pause at this timestamp please. Note: Michael stated earlier in the video that he would remove the screws at the bottom of this jig. Also, Michael comments that the pin-nails he is using in this shot are only placed higher up on the jig so that they will not come into contact with the blade. My point is this, "This is serious!", "Pay attention!" "NO METAL SHOULD BE USED IN ANY PROJECT CUT ON A TABLE SAW AS A GENERAL RULE, BUT ESPECIALLY IF YOU HAVE SAW-STOP TECHNOLOGY IN YOUR TABLE SAW." If you hit metal with my table saw it will trigger the Saw-Stop system and cost $170 to get the saw operational again. FYI plastic nails, and plastic pin nails exist and would have been a better choice for this build. Also Note: There are super sensitive Saw-Stop sensors that can get trigged by wet wood glue. WTF! Let your glue dry. Don't be the dork that shuts down the workshop. Remember, as a last resort... you can always blame the New Guy. : )
I’ve been watching your channel for sometime now. You’ve encouraged me to start my own channel. It is coming along slowly but I am enjoying the journey. Thank you.
thanks for the heads up about splitting the splines when trimming, good tip! Yep, I remember the Murphy Bar, hope you do too! [not using it too much lol]
It seems that the evolution of all woodworking/maker UA-camrs is to have a Dewalt contractor's saw, then later to get a SawStop. You've done it, Tamar and Wesley Treat both did the same.
that´s what im bout to say bro. and also, i did mine with some wood down so it´s aligned and using the rails on the tablesaw, so the only measurement i need to do is on the inside fence.
The Murphy Bar! That's a blast from the past. I scored an offcut of Bolivian rosewood still coated in wax from the bin at the Northgate Rockler about a year ago. I've been meaning to make a splined vanity tray and figured the rosewood would be an excellent contrast with maple. This jig just spurred me into a project for tomorrow. Thanks for that, and excellent work as always. BTW, I have one of those DeWalt jobsite saws as my only table saw. I live in a condo, so as much as I'd love a nice cabinet saw, I have to make do with what will work on my patio. It does the job, but finding good blades in 8 or 8-1/4 can be a bit of a pain. I make it work, though.
Brilliant..I have seen some mitre jigs exactly like this but is rotated 90° and sits centred over the blade (fixed) so you can pass through lengths to be mitred. Do you know what type of jig this is called? PeaceFromOz😊
Great video and jig. I have a question about using it over time. How chewed up does the bottom get with many cuts in different places? As the slots widen do you begin to experience tear out? (I’m building it regardless because it’s a great looking jig. And it’d be easy enough to build another later.)
Question I have a kitchen table that I just made. I cut down the edges of the plywood and covered the entire table with tiles if the edges of the birch play wood. I am looking for the best finish to keep the natural look and make the colors Pop. Anyway I could send you a photo I really want to do the best finish and I have tried a few things on scrap and I’m not happy like polyurethane oil based and it doesn’t look good? I need your help I’m 60 hours into this table and I’m stuck on finish. Thanks
I work with a Bosch GTS10J, almost like that table saw of yours and I had a kickback, few weeks ago, doing exactly spline cuts, but the other way around. As I don´t have an affordable Rockler´s stuff access here in Brazil, I´ll have to build a jig like that. Thanks for that tip. And by the way, I love your plywood pattern works. Trying a few here. Cheers from Pindamonhangaba SP (yes, that´s the name of my town =] )
Just wondering how does the bottom of the spline jig look after making multiple spline cuts . Does it eventually turn into a big empty slot due to the cuts or it doesn't go that far?
What is the measurments of the kerf on the saw? The biggest size I can purchase (here in the UK) comes in at 2.8mm, and it produces a very thin gap for the mitre bits. Using a Biscuit Jointer seems to create a more pleasing mitre insert.
Wouldn't it be better to make the jig wider so that it can fit along one of the rails of your table saw. The way that you've made yours I'm assuming you'd have to make another jig after a while because you put so many spline holes in it, am I correct?
Do you use a thin kerf blade when ripping your splines, if so how many teeth, and what brand? I’m using a flat bottom grind blade to cutout the spline slot, but curious when you are actually making the spline itself. Thanks so much!!
I have the 3 hp table saw. The industrial Freud blade for splines is not available on Amazon and doesn't give the item number. Would you recommend the thin kerf combination blade?
Another great video! Thanks, Michael. As I saw you make the cuts, I couldn't help but think that there's a good chance for this jig to kick back especially if you're taking out the workpiece, flipping it, etc. Have you had any close calls? Any thoughts on a design that would accommodate an accidental bump or wobble?
It’s a type of plywood called Baltic Birch. It’s generally the best plywood to work with- even layers, strong, dimensionally stable, and no veneer plys. It isn’t available from the big box stores, check your local lumber suppliers as well as specialty stores like Rockler and Woodcraft. My local Rockler has 1/2” and 3/4” and my local hardwood store has all the sizes - 1/8”, 1/4”, 3/8”, 1/2”, 5/8”, and 3/4”. It’s pricier but definitely worth it- it’s a joy to worth with
AND as it turns out...the Miter+Splines has real-world testing to back up the promise that it is one of the strongest, most durable corner joint methods you can possibly use! Receipts: ua-cam.com/video/CE147Ow7RmM/v-deo.html
It served me well for 5 years. My biggest complaint is that it only had a 20" rip capacity, and the infeed support is too short. I think they've increased the rip capacity now, and you can build both infeed and outfeed support into your workbench. (which I highly recommend) Great tool for the price.
I’ve had the Dewalt for a couple of years. It has been a reliable saw and has been worth every penny I paid for it. I would second that the indeed/outfeed distance is pretty short. I have an outfeed/assembly table but because of the way the fence rides on a geared track and because the power, depth and angle adjustments are in the front I haven’t been able to come up with a good indeed attachment that has access to the power and height adjustment. I made a cart for it that has extra width on both sides to help support wider boards. The only other negative I have is the noise (which applies to all job site saws). It is way louder than a cabinet saw because of the type of motor and because the motor is exposed.
Why does this add strength? There can’t be that much grain in that corner? The grain runs out on the corner just like the miter from the main piece. I do like the look tho
A miter joint is weak because it glues end grain to end grain. Wood glue doesn’t bond well to end grain. A spline bridges the gap between the joint with a long grain connection with a lot of added surface area. It adds a surprising amount of strength.
Nice again. :-) I have been wondering so long, so I will simply ask now: are your ancestors on your fathers side from Austria or the south of today's Germany? In Austria, the family name ALM is found quite often in the country mountaineous area of Salzburg, Kärnten and Steiermark. Also, many Austrians from these regions moved mainly to the United States, when they were Protestants fleeing from the Catholics in their homelands. Just wondering.... ;-)
@@MichaelAlm Oh yes, that's right. In German Alm means alpine pasture. which is why most of the people with the name ALM have ancestors, who were alpine farmers. Nowadays, there are only a few alpine farmers left, as this work is extremely hard and even today incomparable with historical farmers in the valleys.
The content and production values of your videos are excellent. Please keep up the great work.
Your shop looks unbelievably bright. Those lights are perfect. Alternatively you’re good at camera settings. Little of both maybe.
Thanks!! It’s taken me a while, but I think I finally have it dialed in 😎
Just built the jig from the plans and I have one suggestion!
For people using this with a router table I would recommend using 1/4" plywood as the base instead of 1/2" plywood, as routers can't reach up as high as a table saw blade.
I had to extend my router bit up from the collet higher than normal and got some predictable chatter as a result. I ended up using a mortising bit to take a quarter inch off of the bottom of the jig (and used a 1/4" piece of plywood to stabilize it as I got more than halfway done) and now it works perfectly!
I used your plans and worked great but one suggestion is to add removable 1/4" plywood to your jig. Having the spline cut with a 'zero clearance' at the exit
is really imprtant when using a dado BUT where I screwed up was not allowing for a smaller spline after initially cutting at 1/2" wide. My next project using 1/8" splines had a lot of tear out so I added cheap scrap plywood 'faces' to the jig and now have a 'plate' I can remove and add a new one if I have a new width of spline. I also like your 'sandpaper' table! Can't believe I never thought of that!!!
This is so smart. I'll be adding this to the one I'm building soon.
I just finished building this jig, and I am really excited to use it. I did have have one issue where two of the screws broke off when trying to remove them, luckily both on the same side so I should be fine as long as I don’t pass the whole jig through the saw, but I wish I had thought to wax the screws before the glue up to keep them from sticking after the glue dried. I may try to core the screws out eventually or just rebuild the jig later as I plan to make frames frequently.
Just a suggestion. Mark very prominently on the box with a sharpie or something were the screws are where you will see them so you don't forget. I know sooner or later I would forget. Or if close enough to the edges, just rip to make the jig narrower and minus the screws.
I just began my journey n2 splines 4 the boxes I make. I've been practicing on blocks of scrap wood b4 I take on a box. I'm just so paranoid I'll mess it up. thx 4 the pull saw tips.
I knew I'd find a reason to save all those Talenti jars. Now they have a purpose. Mediterranean Mint is my favorite as well.
The Murphy bar was awesome. This jig was great to watch
Thanks!! 🙌
Fantastic work on this one, Michael!
Thanks dude!!
It's the little things like, how to cut the spline avoiding cracking that I really appreciate. So much that I would love to see you using the dust mask at 12:20 when sanding, so you're around making this excellent content for ages. Respect on the great video.
It was very helpful, Thank you!
I’d love a video on those squares! That something I’d see myself making for sure. Great video as always!
Thanks Levi, Yeah I'll keep that one in mind for the future 👍
Love the video!
Can you list the measurements of the individual pieces?
Thanks!
Warning: Timestamp 4:53 -- Pause at this timestamp please. Note: Michael stated earlier in the video that he would remove the screws at the bottom of this jig. Also, Michael comments that the pin-nails he is using in this shot are only placed higher up on the jig so that they will not come into contact with the blade. My point is this, "This is serious!", "Pay attention!" "NO METAL SHOULD BE USED IN ANY PROJECT CUT ON A TABLE SAW AS A GENERAL RULE, BUT ESPECIALLY IF YOU HAVE SAW-STOP TECHNOLOGY IN YOUR TABLE SAW." If you hit metal with my table saw it will trigger the Saw-Stop system and cost $170 to get the saw operational again. FYI plastic nails, and plastic pin nails exist and would have been a better choice for this build. Also Note: There are super sensitive Saw-Stop sensors that can get trigged by wet wood glue. WTF! Let your glue dry. Don't be the dork that shuts down the workshop. Remember, as a last resort... you can always blame the New Guy. : )
Great tutorial video! 😊I tried to make this today before seeing yours and I was way off!!
Loving your work Michael, and yes I do remember your Murphy bar. Although your fox is my favourite of your earlier videos.
Right on! Thank you 😁
I’ve been watching your channel for sometime now. You’ve encouraged me to start my own channel. It is coming along slowly but I am enjoying the journey. Thank you.
That is awesome!
This jig is on the docket for this weekend. Great video thanks bud
thanks for the heads up about splitting the splines when trimming, good tip! Yep, I remember the Murphy Bar, hope you do too! [not using it too much lol]
Those set-up squares are awesome!
It seems that the evolution of all woodworking/maker UA-camrs is to have a Dewalt contractor's saw, then later to get a SawStop. You've done it, Tamar and Wesley Treat both did the same.
I'm making one of those jigs today!
Awesome!!
I remember the murphy bar...Great Video!
Nice!! Thank you!
Loved it. The corner splines give a very classy and professional look to any project. And this jig makes this task a breeze. Thanks for sharing!
Really great video on how to build and use the jig. Much appreciated. Thank you (from Australia
This is the best spline jig video I’ve found. I have a non-standard fence so this is perfect. And the Rockler piece will be in my shop soon. Thanks!
Excellent job
9:48 I have several of those $5 "Bins" myself! Great stuff!
Hahaha! They come with a prize inside 🍦
Who knew? Great presentation
Awesome jig, Michael! Thanks a lot! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks, you too!
Great video, very well done! I’m starting one today!! Thanks!
to avoid sawing up the jig over time, you could make an adjustable fence inside the jig to reference your frame/box against.
That's a great idea!
that´s what im bout to say bro. and also, i did mine with some wood down so it´s aligned and using the rails on the tablesaw, so the only measurement i need to do is on the inside fence.
how would you do that???
I need to make one of these now. One less excuse not to make boxes. Thanks for sharing!
Lovely, am going to try this. Also your logo looks like a spline jig 😀
I remember the Murphy bar. I had forgotten, dang that’s a while ago!
Nice! Yeah, it feels like forever ago.
Very well done friend
proper Jig, proper Job.
Squirrelly! Shout out to John Malecki!
You could also inbiggen those screw holes and tap in some dowels
The Murphy Bar! That's a blast from the past.
I scored an offcut of Bolivian rosewood still coated in wax from the bin at the Northgate Rockler about a year ago. I've been meaning to make a splined vanity tray and figured the rosewood would be an excellent contrast with maple. This jig just spurred me into a project for tomorrow. Thanks for that, and excellent work as always.
BTW, I have one of those DeWalt jobsite saws as my only table saw. I live in a condo, so as much as I'd love a nice cabinet saw, I have to make do with what will work on my patio. It does the job, but finding good blades in 8 or 8-1/4 can be a bit of a pain. I make it work, though.
Thanks James! Glad I gave you some inspiration! That DeWalt saw served me well for many years, you can do a LOT with them 👍
Love it. I definitely need to use this for some upcoming projects!
Hi - I noticed you pull your spline jig back over the blade like its a sled running in the tracks - but its not. No worry about kickback? Great vid
First thing I saw you make was a fox head carved from wood. With that I subscribed. Been worth it!
Brilliant..I have seen some mitre jigs exactly like this but is rotated 90° and sits centred over the blade (fixed) so you can pass through lengths to be mitred.
Do you know what type of jig this is called?
PeaceFromOz😊
that's a dream shop 👍
Michael how about a video on build of the red door front cabinet under your table saw extension you built.
Here you go ua-cam.com/video/tY1RsSWg_j0/v-deo.html
Great easy build. Thanks for sharing.
Excellent, as always. I love your style and craftsmanship! Nice work.
Thanks Matt!
Hi very well elucidated presentation, specifically with your soft tone of voice which made it a very pleasant , relaxing, and educational.
Nice, easy jig build~! Going to have to make one of these~! Thanks for sharing~!
Right on!!
Any reason not to make this out of MDF? Happen to have a lot more mdf scraps around 😅
Does the saw blade with flat cut teeth have a name? Every blade I see has alternating bevels!
Great video and jig. I have a question about using it over time. How chewed up does the bottom get with many cuts in different places? As the slots widen do you begin to experience tear out? (I’m building it regardless because it’s a great looking jig. And it’d be easy enough to build another later.)
When it was time to use it you missed the opportunity to say “The jig is up!”
Heheeh, I thought the same thing.
Thanks for the great video Michael 🤗 loved it!
Looks great, Michael. Thanks for sharing.
Bill
Exactly what I needed, thank you!
Did you ever make the video on how to make the wooden boxes? I don’t see it on your channel.
is there enough height adjustment on a router table, thats the problem I have been running into with these jigs.
Question I have a kitchen table that I just made. I cut down the edges of the plywood and covered the entire table with tiles if the edges of the birch play wood. I am looking for the best finish to keep the natural look and make the colors Pop. Anyway I could send you a photo I really want to do the best finish and I have tried a few things on scrap and I’m not happy like polyurethane oil based and it doesn’t look good? I need your help I’m 60 hours into this table and I’m stuck on finish. Thanks
Exactly what I was looking for today and well-explained. Subbed!
Do you have a video for a cross-cut sled? I see you use one, but I cannot find a video that you made. I know there are many others out there.
I work with a Bosch GTS10J, almost like that table saw of yours and I had a kickback, few weeks ago, doing exactly spline cuts, but the other way around. As I don´t have an affordable Rockler´s stuff access here in Brazil, I´ll have to build a jig like that. Thanks for that tip.
And by the way, I love your plywood pattern works. Trying a few here.
Cheers from Pindamonhangaba SP (yes, that´s the name of my town =] )
Thanks
I remember that video and saw well. Thanks for this. I'll be getting the plans and making one of these.
Thanks Mike!!
Just wondering how does the bottom of the spline jig look after making multiple spline cuts . Does it eventually turn into a big empty slot due to the cuts or it doesn't go that far?
Eventually it does, but it takes a long time. If you use a lot of splines they will wear out and you can build a fresh jig or replace parts
As usual, great video. Super useful jig.
I love that you use Talenti containers. I have a ton of them because gelato and they're excellent containers.
Thank you a really nice informative video!
Definitely gonna build this
My favorite Ice Cream! :)
What is the measurments of the kerf on the saw? The biggest size I can purchase (here in the UK) comes in at 2.8mm, and it produces a very thin gap for the mitre bits. Using a Biscuit Jointer seems to create a more pleasing mitre insert.
My saw kerf is 3mm
@@MichaelAlm Thanks for the prompt reply...
For some reason the site is listed as Private. Would love to get the plans for the sled...
It's down for maintenance. I should have it back up by the end of the day.
Got plans for that crosscut sled tho ?
Great job!
Wouldn't it be better to make the jig wider so that it can fit along one of the rails of your table saw. The way that you've made yours I'm assuming you'd have to make another jig after a while because you put so many spline holes in it, am I correct?
Any chance having a video on the "L" carpenter squares.
Yeah, I'll be making a video on them. Really handy to have, and easy to make!
Testing on glued up miters have tested stronger than dominos, but splines are much stronger.
whats the length of your 1/2 in plywood base, 24 inches??
It’s dependent on how tall you cut the vertical supports. He doesn’t say how tall his are, but I bet it’s in the plans you can buy!
Where are you getting Baltic Birch Plywood from?
Hi there, i'm starting to build up my own workshop. I was just wondering. How big is your workshop? Thanks :)
Great video! Subbed.
Do you use a thin kerf blade when ripping your splines, if so how many teeth, and what brand?
I’m using a flat bottom grind blade to cutout the spline slot, but curious when you are actually making the spline itself.
Thanks so much!!
Good job, nice content, skillful congratulations 👍🏻👏🏻☺️
I have the 3 hp table saw. The industrial Freud blade for splines is not available on Amazon and doesn't give the item number. Would you recommend the thin kerf combination blade?
i purchased spline jig and received only programming language. How can I still get the specs for building the jig?
Sorry about that! Send me an email thru my website and I’ll get it sorted. www.almfab.com/about
Excellent!👏🏻👏🏻👍❤️
Thank you so much
Another great video! Thanks, Michael. As I saw you make the cuts, I couldn't help but think that there's a good chance for this jig to kick back especially if you're taking out the workpiece, flipping it, etc. Have you had any close calls? Any thoughts on a design that would accommodate an accidental bump or wobble?
There is no kickback if you use riving knife.
@@kryptik0 that’s just false
Where do you get that beautiful plywood with all of those layers? My Home Depot plywood has like 5 layers and is really crappy.
It’s a type of plywood called Baltic Birch. It’s generally the best plywood to work with- even layers, strong, dimensionally stable, and no veneer plys. It isn’t available from the big box stores, check your local lumber suppliers as well as specialty stores like Rockler and Woodcraft. My local Rockler has 1/2” and 3/4” and my local hardwood store has all the sizes - 1/8”, 1/4”, 3/8”, 1/2”, 5/8”, and 3/4”. It’s pricier but definitely worth it- it’s a joy to worth with
What bandsaw do u have?
Why didn’t you end up using a runner?
Because you have to move it left and right to set up the slot. Besides, the table saw fence does the work, so It's not necessary.
Materials are so expensive that the jig probably costs more than the table saw at this point. Cool build.
AND as it turns out...the Miter+Splines has real-world testing to back up the promise that it is one of the strongest, most durable corner joint methods you can possibly use!
Receipts: ua-cam.com/video/CE147Ow7RmM/v-deo.html
What’s your feedback on that portable table saw? I wanna buy one like Dewalt or Bosch?
It served me well for 5 years. My biggest complaint is that it only had a 20" rip capacity, and the infeed support is too short. I think they've increased the rip capacity now, and you can build both infeed and outfeed support into your workbench. (which I highly recommend) Great tool for the price.
I’ve had the Dewalt for a couple of years. It has been a reliable saw and has been worth every penny I paid for it. I would second that the indeed/outfeed distance is pretty short. I have an outfeed/assembly table but because of the way the fence rides on a geared track and because the power, depth and angle adjustments are in the front I haven’t been able to come up with a good indeed attachment that has access to the power and height adjustment. I made a cart for it that has extra width on both sides to help support wider boards. The only other negative I have is the noise (which applies to all job site saws). It is way louder than a cabinet saw because of the type of motor and because the motor is exposed.
Muito bom, cara, vou fazer um pra mim, parabéns.
Why does this add strength? There can’t be that much grain in that corner? The grain runs out on the corner just like the miter from the main piece. I do like the look tho
A miter joint is weak because it glues end grain to end grain. Wood glue doesn’t bond well to end grain. A spline bridges the gap between the joint with a long grain connection with a lot of added surface area. It adds a surprising amount of strength.
Thanks!!
The framed piece--are those supposed to be barn owl wings and did you make that? Really neat idea.
Yeah! There's a video on them ua-cam.com/video/RkrBUGhftZ0/v-deo.html Thanks!
@@MichaelAlm about to watch now!
Don’t remember the Murphy bar, but I do remember the 100 frames. :)
I've blocked the 100 frames from my memory 😂
Nice again. :-)
I have been wondering so long, so I will simply ask now: are your ancestors on your fathers side from Austria or the south of today's Germany? In Austria, the family name ALM is found quite often in the country mountaineous area of Salzburg, Kärnten and Steiermark. Also, many Austrians from these regions moved mainly to the United States, when they were Protestants fleeing from the Catholics in their homelands. Just wondering.... ;-)
Interesting. As far as I know my last name is Swedish. It means Elm tree.
@@MichaelAlm Oh yes, that's right. In German Alm means alpine pasture. which is why most of the people with the name ALM have ancestors, who were alpine farmers. Nowadays, there are only a few alpine farmers left, as this work is extremely hard and even today incomparable with historical farmers in the valleys.