Dust Collector Impeller Upgrade - Testing Air flow, Suction, Noise Levels and Current Draw
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- Опубліковано 2 лют 2018
- I bought a replacement impeller for the Rikon 60-200 dust collector for $120 (including S&H) and swapped it out of my stock harbor freight dust collector. The HF impeller is 10" forward facing veins and the Rikon is 12" rear facing veins. The change resulted in a substantial upgrade in performance.
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Your approach to everything always stands out in my mind and your channel has been far more instructive and useful than those with 10x the subscribers. When your channel really takes off there's going to be no holding it back. Thanks for all your help in getting my dust collection system where it is today.
Thank you for not only showing the additional current draw, but what you did to address it as well. Great vid keep up the great content.
That was my plan, checked out Rikon and the impeller, decided to upgrade my dust collector to 3 hp. Wiring my shop now. Thanks for the comprehensive assessment.
I had some trouble ordering this impeller because it was out of stock everywhere. Finally was able to pick it up… over a year ago. Then of course it just sat on the work bench. Finally decided to dig into it. First I can’t believe how easy it was to install. Took less than 10 minutes. Second the noticeable increase or at least perceived increase was tremendous. Wish I would have done it as soon as I received the impeller. Thanks for the video. Was a great help.
Thank you very much for making this video along with the testing comparison. Best video I've seen so far on this upgrade.
THANK YOU! I have been looking for the correct part number for the 12" blade. Off to order one now.
Great informative video ! I have not done an impeller upgrade, yet, but did replace the top filter bag with a humongous custom bag from American Fabic Filter. Made a BIG improvement in the air flow. (Less restriction).
I added the Rikon 12" impeller to my 20 year old 2HP Grizzly. The old Grizzly impeller was almost 12" in diameter but it was significantly heavier and the blades were straight. Also the Grizzly blades were not as tall as the Rikon. I have not checked amperage, vacuum, or windspeed with actual testing as you've shown, but by the seat of my pants and watching the hose pull things off the floor, I know I have certainly validated the cost of the new Rikon. So far I haven't had any problems with my 15 amp breakers. What really made it a good deal was - they only charged my $17 shipping to Alaska! Great video! Thanks!
Hey JB, I have the same dust collector as you do. Would you mind sharing info regarding the impeller model number? I'm undergoing a rebuild of my dust collector with the Oneida cyclone separator and want to include my impeller with the revamp.
Thanks!
David
I love that you did this by the numbers (with a home-made manometer, no less.) I'm happy to eyeball woodwork details, but I'd rather not guess when I'm protecting my lungs.
Impressively comprehensive testing and a nice upgrade!
I predict Mario will reappear 0.03 seconds faster than he did in the old system, netting a full 8% improvement. :)
good one lol
Nice puller!! Great tests too!
Great video, I always appreciate the hard data. I have had my HF, 2hp dust collector for about 2yrs now. Currently upgrading to a dual stage set up in my new workspace. I have seen the impeller upgrade but didn't have the info as to where to get it. Thanks for the info 👍
Great job! U are a best maker!
Very informative test.
Good to see the test results.
I am interested to find more information for my shop.
But my application is for metal.
So it,s a little more difficult to sort out.
Thanks for taking the time to share the information.
Wish you all the best with your channel.
Peter.
For metal, Urethane tubing might be a bit more more robust for the high-speed metal particles. I believe that the Urethane tubing is available at the same company that makes the large filters.
Very informative. Thanks!
Excellent video using good analysis of the differences.
What, no PL ?!?! Wait... wrong channel... LOL
Thanks guy.
Nice video! Three years ago I made this upgrade however your bottle neck of airflow is with your connection point to the fan housing
Using the stock input plus the cross members also constricts airflow.
I made a new fan housing cover and used a 5 inch HVAC takeoff that connected directly to the Supper Dust Deputy and I used 5 inch smooth ducting for my runs. And as little flex pipe as possible.
I also added the Wynn environmental filter to reduce back pressure on the filter.
I do not have the numbers in front of me, if I did I would post them. You will have a significant Amount of increased airflow if you use a larger fan housing input.
The HF DC was given to me new if I had it to do all over again I would buy a commercial 2 stage system considering the cost of the Rikon Fan, the Wynn Filter, the Supper Dust Deputy and the other parts to put it together. It was fun building it and works well for my two car shop. The best improvement to my 2 car garage shop was adding the DIY 24 k MRCOOL Mini Split. I can work all year around in comfort.
😁🛫
I replaced the stock blower on my HF Dc with the Rikon impeller I also increased the size of the suction side of the impeller to 6 inches that connected directly into the Supper Dust Deputy in a vertical plane like you did, I saw a significant change in current draw on the motor and static pressure due to the larger input pipe, I also use 5 inch suction lines. I am at an elevation of 2000 MSL in the summer a 95 degree day the density Altitude on average is about 5200 feet. So this mod is very effective here in West Texas.for the exhaust I am using the Wynn 35A nano filter.
You have done as I plan with 5" lines. Have you done any testing?
Thanks very informative.
Great idea on the pulley puller! Never seen that method before. I went to an auto parts store and bought one for $20 (which I returned later, flame me if you wish). But it's not something I would ever need to use again.
I was going to do this, but I discovered that the 2hp Wen dust collector already has the 12inch impeller installed, and the price difference is less than the cost of the Rikon part.
Great comparison. The stock HF system is about $150 with coupon, and I'm buying one this week to replace my fairly decent wall-mounted Wen 660 CFM blower. I use the Woodriver separator lid on a 31 gallon stainless steel trash can, and it performs extremely well, separating about 98% of the material into the can, leaving just fine dust venting outside into a mulch pile. I'm not ready to nearly double the cost of a HF system with a better impeller right away, but it is food for thought. I will see how happy I am with the performance of the stock HF blower, which is already a big upgrade over the 660 CFM system. The best thing one can do is ditch the filter bag and vent outside. Eliminating back pressure is one of the best ways to greatly increase airflow through the system. I'd estimate it doubles at the very least. Those bags significantly reduce airflow.
Hey Dan, it has been 10 months since you posted this. How did you make out with the upgrade and venting outside? I too don't feel it is worth it, at least right now, to spend more than half I spent on the HF DC to begin with for an impeller upgrade that gives me a 20% increase, maybe.. I wanted to actually get rid of the filter, bag and the platform and even that little piece that sites between the bag and holds the filter. I did get a cartridge filter from another DC system I bought used, then resold for more than I paid for it. So essentially, got the cartridge for free. I thought if I just mount the motor on the wall, run my outlet hose/pvc outside, then inlet connection around the shop, vent all the incoming dust right outside where I mulch leaves and store the mulched dirt, easy access to just shoot the dust and turn the pile. Have you actually done this yet? Vent outside?
Oh another thing I was going to say was, if you got rid of your bag, and it in fact eliminates that back pressure, would be very curious to see if the power increases. If that option is doable, who's to say you can't get that same 20% increase or more as you think it could be double. Essentially a free upgrade if you look at it that way. I know many or most people can't vent outside as well. If you have an attached garage as an example and vent outside, the dust could be blown into your home via some windows or screen door. Now if you use a cyclone into a barrel in the shop and then just let the very fine particles exhaust, you would still possibly have to worry about the fine, damaging dust particles getting blown back into the home or shop. Thoughts?
I thought of venting outside also but if your shop is climate controlled you will be venting the heat or cool air outside also.
Thanks for the interesting video !.
It would have been very interesting to see CFM comparison at the end of a 10ft run. Since low pressure air is not very compressible (acts more like fluid), your bottleneck is ductwork, starting from 5" inlet on impeller. To benefit from the upgrade you really need 6" pipes right to your machines.
Interesting!
the model number for the replacement is 60-200 rikon impeller.
Im interested in how eliminating the plate directly below the impeller that steps down to the 4" port.It seems that removing all of that and attaching the cone directly to the bottom with an internal spiral baffle. looks like the bigger cyclones dont restrict the impeller.
Nice find. How did you find out about the new impeller?
If ever want to use your manometer to measure actual pressure vs. just comparing pressures, the actual vacuum is the difference in height between the two water columns.. I.E. double the value on your scale if both sides start at zero.
Thanks for sharing the comparison.
How about a link to your collector mod build. Your setup is alot like what I am wanting to do with mine.
yer like Bill Nye the science guy of the woodworking shop...LOL
Don't know how I missed it, but just found this vid. GREAT job in breaking down the performance (before/after) at each of the tool locations. The impeller upgrade seems worthwhile, even if the gains are only 10%, with some locations showing much better gains. Since I am not sure of your pipe size (at the cyclone inlet), I cant equate the airflow numbers (MPH figures) with the corresponding changes in CFM. I am particularly interested in CFM gains at the collector, since readings at the ports are the big variable with the inherent restrictions. Did you calculate the CFM numbers at the collector before or after that swap? I am very curious, as we all know the stated 1550 CFM rating JUST a tad optimistic.
In the near future, my HF collector is getting a trash barrel style cyclone second stage (Rockler kit) and a Wynn 35A nanofilter cartridge to replace the stock bag. I'm going to try that setup first to see if my system does an adequate job. A potential impeller upgrade is still on the possible horizon.
Keep up the good work. Just subbed the channel.
Hi, excellent video! I’m actually in the process of upgrading my impeller but used a gear puller. Unfortunately I broke the outer flange lip and now I can’t remove it any further. May be seized. I noticed your method and it may save me. I get everything except for the last part with the impact gun. Did you drill a center hole all the way through? Also, what type of fastener are you using for the center? Thanks!
That's one fantastic bit of work to show HF DC owners (like me) what we can do to get some more pressure. You didn't characterize just how you felt about the upgrade though. Was it like day and night? Was it barely noticeable? It will be a lot of work for me even if the impeller was free. And that puller! Damned if I understand that at all! Can you splain? Thanks. Liked and subbed.
Why is it the larger propeller vanes are curved the opposite direction of the smaller unit? Shouldn't the aid scoop push on the inside curve?
could you tell me where i should look ( study , work or research ) to learn more about this, i am starting to learn about carpentry and i love machines but i have no experience making any
Excellent video..! Can you explain a little bit more about how you were able to pull the old fan off with that simple made pully? What are the heads of the screws grabbing onto? And what and how are you drilling that long bolt into? What is causing it to pull? I plan on making this upgrade and that seemed the simplest way to remove the old fan.. Thanks!!!
3 pan head screws grab the lip of the pilot while the lag bolt pushes against the shaft of the motor
It looked that way. :) Wouldn't the tip of the lag bolt damage the threads of the motor shaft?
So how do you know what blades you can up grade to? Give example I have a grizzly 3hp twin bag. I believe the impeller is a 13.5" where do I find a blade to increase to and manufacturer and new size?
What is the difference between forward and rear facing veins? The actual fan blades are both projecting in the same way so I can't tell what the difference is in forward/rear veins... ?
That is a decent upgrade to an existing system. Is it worth buying a HF dust collector and upgrading it from the start or are there better options to start with??
Excellent Queensryche shirt.
I've got a serious 3 HP blower with a 7" inlet. I don't know yet whether there's anything to be gained by a fan swap but I've been reading Pentz and want to use high efficiency cartridge filters but don't know who can/will fabricate the cyclone. Anybody have recommendations? PS: Thank you for your valuable video.
Decibels are logarithmic, so really the change is around 7% :)
Decibeles are confusing, the difference between 73 and 74 decibels is 67 decibels :) www.noisemeters.com/apps/db-calculator.asp
Great videos you do. Very impressive. I recently made this upgrade + opened it up to 7 inch intake. Have 8 inch line into shop then y's off one to belt sander 8 inches all the way and 8 inch y's before table saw. 3 inch to bottom and 6 inch over the top. Top pulls at 17 mph. Didn't check bottom. Belt sander pulls 29 mph. Any chance you measured exit speed? Didn't have an Anemometer to check the before. I do now and it does 56 mph with both gates open inside. I have the collector sitting on top 55 gallon drum with a thein baffle added. I had a lot of debris making it through after the upgrade. Was perfect before. Of course not sucking as hard. I doubled up the height of the separator. With the thinking incoming debris would drop faster instead of swirling. Helped a bit. Thinking will need to try a cone next. Thanks and keep up the great videos
Im pretty sure it maxed out the speed on the meter right next to inlet
Very nice video, thorough testing! Please explain more about that diy puller. I really did not get how that worked. For example, what were the three screws for? Did the bolt push against the shaft? Or did it screw into the shaft, in place of the retaining screw?
Would really appreciate some additional info. Your method made it look SO easy!
Thanks!
Ok, finally found your response to SteveK. Now it all makes sense! Thanks for the idea! My cheap gear pullers did not want to hold, or the legs were too long while the bolt was too short...Thanks again!
3 screw heads grabbed onto the lip of the impeller and the bolt is threaded into the wood piece and pushes against the motor shaft.
@@DIYBuilds Thank-you!
I think if you dont change the impeller, but just inversing the motor rotating way you will get similar results as you get with the new 12 size blades.... maybe was no need to buy a thing though' very nice comparison of these reads
Seriously consider the "[3403-022] Turbo Fan for WEN 3403" instead of the Rikon. It's 1/3 the price.
How is your harbor freight dc holding up after all your mods? Nice video. I recently got one and definitely want to do a some kind of cyclone or Thien Baffle separator. I have a cartridge hepa filter on the way for it.
Working great. Ive used it probably 1 hour a day on average since
So not much increase in draw. Perfect. Should be no problem for my 20 amp breaker and outlet right?
I changed my 15 to 20 because of this upgrade
NIce video....people get this wrong all the time(including myself) but a 1db increase in sound is actually a 50% increase in sound...db's are a logarithmic measure so not releated to imperial or metric.
I love your vacuum pressure liquid tester.....so simple.
What do you think, overall, the (percentage) improvement is for the actual job of dust collecting? are there any differences e.g more dust ends up in the cyclone than before? or maybe less and more ends up in the fine collection bag? (i found the latter with a power increase whilst not increasing the hose diamerters (I need to do that too)
Friend on which page did you buy the 12-inch blower?
GREAT video, thank you so much. Two questions if I may. Did you get the impression that the H.F. unit was under performing to begin with? I ran a "free fan test", meaning inlet and outlet are not connected to anything and I got an average velocity of 8700 ft/min, which, on a 4 inch inlet translates to 760 cfm, but the unit is sold as a 1550 cfm. Second question if I may, we can see where you had one end of the manometer, where did you place the other end? - Thanks
sum1sw no I just saw one other guy do it and i figured i could always use more suction lol. As far as the manometer it's open on the other end. Watch my video on building the manometer.
Oh OK, thank you so much.
Thanks for the great video. What type of hose is that at the drill press?
Loc line from lee valley.
@@DIYBuilds is it the 2.5"? It looks larger than that.
@@marang1966 yup
Nice comparison. What drove the upgrade? I'm about to copy your initial install - was that setup not good enough?
+Matthew Kline honestly i saw others doing it and I wanted more suction out of my 2" 20 foot shop vac hose so i thought I'd give it a go. The system as it was before was totally fine for everything besides the long hose, which didn't really matter anyways.
Great improvement!
What duct sizes are you running and are you going to upgrade those?
+Morten Mortensen 4" and no plans to upsize
Hi Morten nice to find you here ;-) I have a new channel so if you want take a lock
It makes you wonder which companies engineers got it right? The forward facing vane guys or the rear facing vane guys? Let's not forget that this is a blower, not a sucker and that it only creates suction by displacing air in a positive direction. So, not being a fluid dynamics engineer, which vane direction works best? OR is it simply the increase in diameter that closes the gap between the vanes and the housing? I donno, but this is a great demonstration of the differences, before and after!
Backwards facing cause more pressure and forward makes more cfm
I have a Harbor Freight 613 cfm dust collector & badly need to increase the efficiency. The unit barely sucks the sawdust out of my tablesaw. My shop vac actually out-performs the HF unit.
Any ideas to supercharge my HF vac??
Dust collectors move lots of air and doesn't have any where near the sucking power. Therefore shop vacs do well through small hoses and dust collectors do well through large pipes. Make sure your not restricting air flow to the unit.
The actual part number for the impeller is P60-200-22. See www.rikonparts.com/product/60-200 for details and ordering.
Nice video.
I have a question. Where did you buy this new impeller? Tks
Rikon parts online support
Wanted to install this impeller for a while now. I haven’t done it because I only have (2) 15 amp circuits in the garage. Do you think I could run this mod on a 15 amp breaker, as long as it always had inlet/outlet restriction? You seem to always be right around 10amps running.
Great video, love the pulley puller. You just saved me $20.
Maybe. Im not going to say 100% yes. Best of luck.
Thanks. Only one way to find out I guess. Just ordered it.
I’m happy to report it works on a dedicated 15amp circuit. Good thing too, because I had to absolutely destroy the stock impeller. It was completely rusted and seized to the shaft. Three jaw puller just shattered the flange. Had to drill out 6 rivets to remove 2 impeller blades. That gave me enough room to fit a cut-off wheel in and cut a slot in the hub. 2 hours of sparks, shavings, and swearing. There was no turning back. But it was well worth it, the suction difference is incredible. It now runs like it should. 2.5 inch port went from 52 to 76mph. 4” ports just howl. I’m guessing I’m right around 10-11 amps as I was able to run 250watts of lights and a 2.3amp fan on the same circuit. I have a clamp-on ammeter arriving tomorrow. I would caution people that if you want to do it, make sure you have the ability to cut the impeller off if need be. Thanks again for the awesome video. Finally motivated me to pull the trigger.
@@fluxcapacitr121 I just received my Rikon Impeller and as soon as I attached my pulley pulley it also shattered the flange. Stock impeller frozen to the shaft. Applied generous amount of WD40 to see if that will make a difference and I'll let it set overnight. It came off so easily in the video.
What size bolt did you use to get that propeller out?
I replaced the impeller, and now the motor wont turn the impeller. Do you have any suggestions?
Can you please explain exactly how you made your puller?
A piece of plywood with 3 washer head screws and a bolt through the middle
I had the same question as someone else here about your shop made wheel puller: it looks like you used three screws in the plywood disks as standoffs, but it it’s unclear how the center hole/shaft is being used. What is the long piece you’ve run into the center hole in the plywood, and is it threaded into the impeller hub or...?
My Rikon impeller just arrived, was about to run to HF for a wheel puller but would rather follow your lead!
i just flattened the end of a lag bolt and drove it against the motor shaft while the 3 screws grabbed onto the impeller lip
Wow, thanks for the fast reply. I can't quite grasp the physics of how that pulls it off, (was the lag bolt threaded into the plywood or...) but I'll go tear into mine and maybe it will become apparent.
@@uiarchitects yes, must have been threaded in to the ply.
👍👌
Will a 12 & 1/4 impeller fit? I found one from another company because Ricon is on back order.
I've seen some posts about the Wen 12" which fits without modification too...
Where did you order the 12 impeller from
Overall a pretty impressive sysytem ! I had never known that upgrade was available for the unit i appreciate the video and the comparison the way you put it together old woodworkers joke your entire dust collection sucks LOL (sorry my kids usually roll their eyes and walk away
How did you pull the impeller of the shaft?
With my homemade puller shown in the video
So $212 (including tax) for the HF DC. $120 for the 12" impeller. $330ish for the entire thing. A Shop Fox 1.5 HP DC is $324 w/12" impeller. Is the HF w/upgraded impeller a better performer with that extra .5 HP?
killxswitch my hf dc was 160 with tax
I forgot about the 20 and 25% coupons. Durr. Good video.
Finally got it finished, but am finding that it's tripping the dedicated 20A breaker I installed just for it, most of the time. It seems to run fine if it gets past the startup, I wish I could find some kind of soft-start circuit breaker or outlet but nothing practical is showing up. The 20A breaker is one of the new skinny kind, where 2 breakers share what would traditionally be a single breaker slot. I would expect that a 20A breaker would be a 20A breaker, but are those iffier than a standard one?
I don't have an inline tester to check the draw but presumably it would show it going over 20 before flipping the breaker. I tested the stock HF impeller in situ and it had no issues, so seems to be the added effort of winding up the 6lb 7oz Rikon impeller.
I also have a small 20a breaker that fits 2 into 1 slot. (Eaton brand) how are you running it because mine didn't trip when i had the cyclone attached and all the piping. This is because there is less strain on the motor initially untill it starts sucking which should get you past the inrush current.
DIY Builds - hmm... I had wondered if I was because I have the 5” pot DD, but it looks like you retained the 5” intake port, which is even more constrictive. Maybe it’s variability between individual HF motors? I’m going to see if I can find a way to measure that draw. BTW, the cord to the motor feels warm after running the motor even for less than a minute when I can get it past start-up, does yours?
Havnt noticed the cord getting warm. Mine normal running current is around 9 or 10 i believe. So 16awg should be fine
@ramatsu did you figure out your issue? My setup is tripping a 20 amp breaker at startup too.
@@TylerJSpry TL;DR version: Still trips on occasion, but rarely enough I haven't done the work to fix it.
Full version: I pulled the whole motor/impeller assembly out and took it to an electric motor shop here in town, where I learned some fascinating and completely non-intuitive stuff about electric motors, and why I want to go 3-phase when I build out my dream shop :-)
I had been assuming that the tripping was caused by excessive load on the motor at startup, and so had been working hard to reduce that by giving it lots of air - basically thinking that if the motor was trying to pull air through a system that was closed and therefore resisting the pull, it would create load. It turns out the exact opposite is true, and he quickly demo'd this on his shop floor by powering up my assembly wide open, where it would immediately trip his breaker, and then powering it up with the intake completely blocked, where it would spin up just fine. So the shortest long version is, I try to have my gates shut on startup and for the most part, don't have much trouble.
I joked that I was probably his "dumb call of the week," but he told me he probably explains this 100 times a year and lots of people bring their motors to him because they don't believe him when he tells them on the phone.
Also, I had gotten a clamp meter and was terrified to see that my fan was drawing something like 60-70amps on spinup! I didn't think that was possible, and figured that I didn't understand how to use my clamp meter. He explained that single-phase motors do draw that much on startup, and that a 20A breaker will let that go for the second or two before flipping, by which time the motor comes down to more like it's normal 9-10A draw. (Now, when mine trips, it does so absolutely instantaneously, without the impeller sounding like it starts to even turn, so that's more of just an interesting fact than something that might be directly involved in the problem.)
He then showed me a phase converter that he plugged into a standard 120v outlet (single phase) and it output 3-phase 240v. That's the moment I realized I did not understand electricity AT ALL and convinced me I should turn to an electrician for some things I thought were pretty straightforward and understood.
But as far as what it means to me as a user: 1-phase motors have circuitry that create that high initial draw to spin up fast, so you get instant suction in this case, while 3-phase motors are just simple "dumb" magnetic rotors that lack that circuitry, so spin up much slower but never draw more than the normal amperage during the process. Which is also why industrial, studly 3-phase motors tend to be cheaper than HP equivalent 1-phase consumer motors even though I would have expected "more performance, more cost"; they're just simpler devices.
BTW, I had an electrician come look at replacing my whole box after I learned that A) the tandem breakers are only supposed to go into certain designated slots near the center of the box, which are marked inside the box, and B) that my box, with a bunch of tandem breakers (including this one) right at the top and well outside of that zone, was not marked at all for where they should go, and probably predated that code or approach. I also wanted to know why mine still tripped on occasion. He looked it over and said he wasn't worried about the location of the tandems or the occasional tripping, but that if it bothered me I could rewire that circuit for 30A. Since he was talking himself out of a more expensive job, there's some sense that he's not motivated by greed at least. But since rewiring something I'd just wired was a hassle and maybe not the "right" fix since 20A should be working, I've just lived with it. If I decide I'm going to be in this shop/house for a lot longer, I'll probably still get the box replaced just for GP.
Hope at least some of that helps understand your situation and at least some of the rest is interesting :-)
How did you make your cyclone?
Watch my cyclone build video
What size pipe are you running for your system? Is that 6"?
4"
Looks like you have a short run? Do you think the HF DC with the upgraded impeller would work on a 5" piped system with about 65' of duct work? Longest run would be about 35ft. Appreciate the help. Thanks
I would think it would work but can't be sure.
Has anyone had trouble removing the HF impeller?? Mine won't budge . I tried DIY Builds method and then tried gear pullers which broke off part of the lip! Can't get the thing to budge.
Really frustrating.
Wow that sucks. Sorry to hear. Have you tried a heat gun on the impeller around the shaft?
Yes I did try a heat gun. Like that other commenter I was tempted to just cut it and break it off but for only about 25% more performance I decided to leave it alone. It was pretty good to begin with so I'll stick with it. I didn't want to risk damage to the motor shaft. I'll call Rikon and see about returning it. Wow, didn't expect to hear from you this fast but I do appreciate the prompt responce. Like your channel. Keep up the good work .@@DIYBuilds
Earl B. Hi did you check for a set screw on the impeller?
Earl where did you purchase the impeller,I’ve searched the web and can’t find a vendor. Could you post infor.
@@richardwebster1772 Yes, it has a key slot with a key in it. I've returned the impeller to Rikon . Any attempts to cut it off might have damaged the shaft. However, I learned that I needed a left turning gear puller but since the lip had broken I'm not sure that would have worked now. At any case, I returned the impeller and going to stay with the original. Thanks Richard for your question and help.
Hold up what the f*** did you do to get the impeller off
Why rear facing vanes? It's loosing air. Allows the air to wash off the OD edge of the vanes.
Creates higher static pressure. More suck less blow.
@@DIYBuilds so is the stock HF impeller actually running the wrong way?
No it just produces more cfm and less pressure
The 12 inch Grizzly impeller works and is much cheaper --- about $40
got a link for that impeller @ $40 ??
the Grizzly p/n is PX1666022B
@@WilWinston Before you spend $40 check what hub it has. I learned hard way.
It fit mine perfectly
Grizzly has a fair return policy
@@WilWinston Thanks for the info. Do you have any test data to show the improvement over the stock impeller?
where in canada r u from?
Logan Johnson I don’t want to buy a puller tool .please in your video you show how to build one but I can’t figure out what did you use beside some screws and a piece of rounded wood..please detail .thanks
Without data you are nothing but another person with an opinion - William Edwards Deming
?
Bud didn't bother to check if the motor is being over amped... "oh I'll just toss in a bigger breaker." Not very wise.
Motor has overload protection.
I made a husky homemade hub puller, no offense, but much better than yours, and yet my fan will NOT come off it’s really on there. Any more and I’m afraid of ruining it. The key is really in there. I’m afraid an actual hub puller won’t fit in there even if I go buy one.. thoughts?
Heat gun to expand the fan metal perhaps?
DIY Builds no luck at all. I went to Harbor Freight and got an actual puller and it just broke the harbor freight fan hub, just chipped it right off, now I am in real trouble.. and of course my local store doesn’t have any in stock and the nearest is an hour drive I’m beyond pissed. It’s like my original fan is welded on.
And I didn’t see what you are doing with the actual key from the shaft in this video? Does it come out or just stay on the shaft??
And the problem with heating it up seems to be it’s just heating up the shaft too
Ya im not sure what to tell you. Mine came off with not much effort and they key was relatively easy to align. Not sure if it was removable.
Harbor Fright DC (with Rikon impeller)
The initial/startup draw is between 20 to 27 amps, and running (this really depends on how open or closed the system is) is between 8.5 with no load and 10.2 amps with one 4" blast gate wide open (typical use). So, if it runs at 10 amps - this is only 1.45 horsepower at 90% efficiency. I've argued long and hard the HFDC is NOT a 2 horsepower motor. You are pulling closer to 1.2 to 1.3 horsepower.
If a person DOES NOT already have a HF Dust Collector, I would suggest the Wen 3403 2 HP collector. It costs more, but already has the 12 impeller vs HFDC 9.875". All other things being equal, a person would save by buying the Wen, vs buying the HFDC and buying the Rikon Impeller. Wen KNOWS the startup has a higher power draw and has a NEMA 5-20R plug, and requires a 20 amp outlet. I don't know the power draw on the Wen 3204.
I know this is way too late to reply to an old video but your motor is well overloaded. The time it takes to start up you can hear it struggling to get up to speed when you were testing noise. The startup cap might eventually burn out because the centripical switch clutch takes too long cut out use of the cap. It is also pulling 15 amp as you measured which is 1800w 15a*120(745 per hp). That converts to 2.43 horse power. your motor is only 2hp you will eventually burn it out. Your old 10" was drawing 1.5 hp (1100w) 9.22a * 120 / 745 per hp
With the after tests only taking 9 amps you MAY be ok. Reverse blades give less airflow, is easier on the motor, and gives more static pressure. but you increseased size so it is able to put out more
Can the starting capacitor be increased to improve motor startup speed? If so, how would you size a bigger capacitor ?
I went to the site you talked about they would not let not let me order
This impeller is always sold out. I suspect foul play. As in they aren't making new ones so they sell other machines instead or they don't want you having a decent hf system.
Available 10/22. In 'mass quantities' per parts guy at Rikon.
I'll order it today then, thank you!
@@richardpatterson4312 Mine arrived today. Charged and shipped 10/26. FYI and good luck
Warning this fan blade doesn't fit the Powermatic dust collector, fan blade shaft is too small for the Electric motor shaft!
So no difference.
What?