Head bolts were only an issue on early model N*, GM fixed it for all the later runs. The real issue that killed so many G body cars with N*s was the mid block skirt "leaking" oil (more like pouring out oil) that required a full engine out to reseal. Doing a $3,500 reseal on a vehicle worth
Hyunda Exeli was excellent in 1986 when they first hit the streets in America. Sold faster than they could build and ship. $ 3,995.00 .... Anything after 2011 is junk. Selling people on a warranty that they don't honor. Also, who builds a car that can be stolen with a car charger cord. What the hell happened to this world
I was just about to comment about the late 80's Hyundai Excel. Those were pretty good cars. I'm not sure what changed but it seems like reliability went down hill after that. That's right around when they started offering the 100k mile warranty that came standard on all models. I think they just started caring more about quantity than quality.
I liked my 2016 Santa Fe. But some idiot in a Silverado pulled out and swiped me and insurance totaled it. Now I’m with a 2015 Ford C-Max… completely different driving experience but I can’t ignore the 40+ gas mileage and torque upgrade💨
So the air force f 35 jet that recently crashed had nothing korean in side or outside That crash was in billions of taxes One could have bought Millions of kias with that waisted taxes
I got a 2019 f150 5.0. with 145k on it. Has a rough idle when cold. Gets little better when hot but still not right. Changed plugs still not right. No codes. No missfire on the scan tool but feels almost like a missfire
Back in the late 80s early 90s when I was wrenching. The Hyundai was like gravy money. Carburetors failed. When an O2 sensor went out on one of them, you had to replace the exhaust manifold. The threads were coming out. We did clutches galore on these things. Front axles were always rattling. In my opinion people haven’t learned and they will buy junk. Only to be mad a year or two later at the expensive repairing it.
The GM Northstar had the same issue mainly because fine threads rather than course threads were used. This is a very basic mistake and should not be happening on newer engine designs. Northstar Performance has the best solution which utilizes studs rather than bolts to attach the heads to the block. The studs have oversized thread at the end where they engage the block and the are course threads!!
Had a 3.3 Santa Fe. got rid of it because it was burning oil and it had a driveline clunk that a Toyota and a Hyundai dealer could not find. rattled like it was gonna come apart on a cold day cold starting it.
Damn that sucks! factories need to switch to head STUDS!! Pull the head down from the lowest point up, not from the top down. Head bolts immediately Gota be swapped for ARP Studs if ur vehicle is known for blown head gaskets
This is strange, because in the middle east we get these hyundai V6s (the lambda family of engines) in 3.0l, 3.3l, and 3.5l and they are pretty reliable, the only difference is that we get them all in MPI injection system we don't get them in direct injection, I don't think that the difference in injection method would make this kind of failure! Weird.
Yeah the non-GDI lambdas were pretty great. Liked to leak oil from the valve cover gaskets and you'd have to replace the occasional VVT sprocket, but otherwise if you changed the oil, they were great. Good power, mated with some smooth shifting transmissions, and AWD available, too.
I have a question. I just rebuilt my 97 Chevy 4.3 vortec. I'm currently running straight 30 weight changed 3 to 4 thousand. 99%highway drivin . What oil do you recommend. I just hit 23.000 miles.... that's 30 conventional oil..
Kia, Hyundai, Ford 2.0 Ecoboost??? Is there any damn thing we can buy and not get fkd? Geez! So tired of being taken advantage of and the manufacturers go to the bank with billions.
Question maybe you know. My Kia Soul is a Standard, stick shift. Turned the key and got nothing. The mechanic changed out the battery, nothing said it was the starter. Replaced the starter and now the issue of trying to start my car is intermittent. Turn the key and NOTHING! I wait wait wait try again. sometimes I get lucky and it will start sometimes I have to wait where finally it does start. The mechanic has no idea what it is after spending over $700.00!!! lolololol
Ive had this EXACT issue with my 17 year old Volvo. Starter was good, battery was good all the wiring was good but sometimes it would NOT engage the starter. One time I had to have another person holt the key in the Start position while I went under the hood and jumped the starter, the engine started right up. On most cars the Key needs to be in the Start Position for the engine to actually start when you jump the starter. I figured it either had to be an issue with an interlock switch or the circuitry sending the start signal to the starter. My Volvo will only start in Neutral and with the brake pedal pressed down but I tested that and got consistent signal. Then I was out of options and just changed the starter solenoid relay and cleaned all the contacts on the relay box and the starter. The issue has not reappeared. I believe it was an intermittend fault in the relay. Your mechanic is a friggin idiot and upseller.
You seem to have intermittent power going to the starter. Possible causes,loose connections,bad ignition switch,bad clutch safety switch. Since you mechanic replaced the starter assembly,sometimes it can something as simple as a bad connection.
Thank you everyone whom replied.... It was a switch from the clutch to the starter. They put in a new switch and it is working perfect. I just question if they put in a NEW starter why didn't they check the switch on the floor board?
@@JoannaMaGrath Because the clutch safety switch is seperate from the starter. The switch is just a contact to make a connection to the starter. Think about the light bulb switch for a lamp. Most people would try to change the light bulb without thinking why would power not flow to the bulb.
FORD GMC DODGE AND EVEN TOYOTA ARE NO BETTER SAME PROBLEMS AT LEAST HYUNDAI KIA GIVE 60,000 MILE BUMPER TO BUMPER AND 100,000 MILE POWER TRANS .. THE OTHERS 36,000 AND 60,000 ..
@@acornsucks2111 😅 I had one... 2014 21000kms was on a wrecker 23 times. It went away less than a year into ownership. I still get recall notices in the mail. REGULARLY!
Kinda like the GM V6s in the late 90s in Chevys, Pontiacs etc that blew gaskets and had to be disassembled with only approximately 100,000 miles. Don't get me started on Chevy Vegas and 70s V6 death traps, that died for no reason on the highway, in heavy traffic, putting the drivers and passengers in peril. Let us talk about Ford's years long scam, with the ever failing Thick Film Ignition Modules, resulting in people like me, carrying a new TFI Module in the glove box, with the little knob tool... Did I mention the TFI scam, ended in a class action suite. Let us not forget Fords self proclaimed superiority of the Twin Eye-beam suspensions on it's pickups for years, that manage to absolutely destroy any tires in less than 30k miles. Or all the Toyotas with blown gaskets or burn oil when new (fairly recently) that the auto industry hardly talks about. All of them have built crap at times in the last 20 years and before, and try to blame the owners. I knew a guy in the 80s that bought a Nap Z engine 4X4 Nissan truck, that blew head gaskets, and Nissan (then Datsun still) blamed the owners. A class action lawsuit proved that the last four headbolt holes were never drilled and tapped deep enough, and the rear of the head on the Nap Z engines wasn't clamped down tight enough because of that.... Some ingenious outfit back then, figured out the head bolts were much longer than needed, and simply made a kit of head bolts that were about 2 or 3mm shorter than from the factory and it fixed it... In the mean time, Nissan was replacing whole engine blocks to fix it LOL My mother has a 2018 2.4l Sonata, and that thing has almost 90k miles on it and has been perfect, except for a high pressure fuel pump, that was replaced under the warranty, that some here claim "isn't honored" Her Sonata when driven about 70mph down our beltway, gets 40 to 43mpg, better than Hyundai advertised. In fact, her 2018 Sonata, edged out the same year Honda Accord for long term reliability.
You would think all engine builders would study the North Star V8 and not have the same problem with the threads.
Head bolts were only an issue on early model N*, GM fixed it for all the later runs. The real issue that killed so many G body cars with N*s was the mid block skirt "leaking" oil (more like pouring out oil) that required a full engine out to reseal. Doing a $3,500 reseal on a vehicle worth
Hyunda Exeli was excellent in 1986 when they first hit the streets in America. Sold faster than they could build and ship. $ 3,995.00 .... Anything after 2011 is junk. Selling people on a warranty that they don't honor. Also, who builds a car that can be stolen with a car charger cord. What the hell happened to this world
I was just about to comment about the late 80's Hyundai Excel. Those were pretty good cars. I'm not sure what changed but it seems like reliability went down hill after that. That's right around when they started offering the 100k mile warranty that came standard on all models. I think they just started caring more about quantity than quality.
I liked my 2016 Santa Fe. But some idiot in a Silverado pulled out and swiped me and insurance totaled it. Now I’m with a 2015 Ford C-Max… completely different driving experience but I can’t ignore the 40+ gas mileage and torque upgrade💨
The cargo ship that was plagued by mechanical malfunctions and crashed into the bridge in Baltimore was built by Hyundai Heavy Industries.
Bad breakers tripping between 440v low voltage and high voltage 8kv panels. Or just unstable electricity setting the breakers off.
Its electrical system had a blackout
So the air force f 35 jet that recently crashed had nothing korean in side or outside
That crash was in billions of taxes
One could have bought
Millions of kias with that waisted taxes
I find early 2010's Hyundai and Kia's are starting to get rare very fast
Us poor Americans are going to pay for their screw up one way or another, just watch and see.
I got a 2019 f150 5.0. with 145k on it. Has a rough idle when cold. Gets little better when hot but still not right. Changed plugs still not right. No codes. No missfire on the scan tool but feels almost like a missfire
honda has the same head bolts issue with accord.
You can't complain about disposable vehicle design.
Back in the late 80s early 90s when I was wrenching. The Hyundai was like gravy money. Carburetors failed. When an O2 sensor went out on one of them, you had to replace the exhaust manifold. The threads were coming out. We did clutches galore on these things. Front axles were always rattling. In my opinion people haven’t learned and they will buy junk. Only to be mad a year or two later at the expensive repairing it.
10th gen 1.5T honda engines have weak headgasket studs, which contributes to blown head gaskets along with the inlets between cylinders
The GM Northstar had the same issue mainly because fine threads rather than course threads were used. This is a very basic mistake and should not be happening on newer engine designs. Northstar Performance has the best solution which utilizes studs rather than bolts to attach the heads to the block. The studs have oversized thread at the end where they engage the block and the are course threads!!
I had a Suzuki Forenza that I still have nightmares about
Had a 3.3 Santa Fe. got rid of it because it was burning oil and it had a driveline clunk that a Toyota and a Hyundai dealer could not find. rattled like it was gonna come apart on a cold day cold starting it.
Damn that sucks! factories need to switch to head STUDS!! Pull the head down from the lowest point up, not from the top down. Head bolts immediately Gota be swapped for ARP Studs if ur vehicle is known for blown head gaskets
This is strange, because in the middle east we get these hyundai V6s (the lambda family of engines) in 3.0l, 3.3l, and 3.5l and they are pretty reliable, the only difference is that we get them all in MPI injection system we don't get them in direct injection, I don't think that the difference in injection method would make this kind of failure! Weird.
You probably get a different version of this engine made in a different factory.
@@alouisschafer7212 what we get is made in Korea, at least that's what the metal plate says on the driver's door jamb, where is yours made?
Yeah the non-GDI lambdas were pretty great. Liked to leak oil from the valve cover gaskets and you'd have to replace the occasional VVT sprocket, but otherwise if you changed the oil, they were great. Good power, mated with some smooth shifting transmissions, and AWD available, too.
I didn't know they made vehicles with a V6. They specialize in the small stuff.
I have a question. I just rebuilt my 97 Chevy 4.3 vortec. I'm currently running straight 30 weight changed 3 to 4 thousand. 99%highway drivin . What oil do you recommend. I just hit 23.000 miles.... that's 30 conventional oil..
Everyone I know with one burns a quart of oil every 700-1000 miles
New 22 0:49 2.5 non turbo wish me luck
They were horrible vehicles back in the 80's and 90's sadly going back to producing junk again.
Why would anyone consider buying a South Korean vehicle? Boggles the mind
Factory recall?? Lmao!!
EV vehicles saying hold my beer 😂
Ev is junk
@@FordBossMe for sure!
Kia, Hyundai, Ford 2.0 Ecoboost??? Is there any damn thing we can buy and not get fkd? Geez! So tired of being taken advantage of and the manufacturers go to the bank with billions.
Or just avoid these cars
Chevy and Ford do everything right.
Question maybe you know. My Kia Soul is a Standard, stick shift. Turned the key and got nothing. The mechanic changed out the battery, nothing said it was the starter. Replaced the starter and now the issue of trying to start my car is intermittent. Turn the key and NOTHING! I wait wait wait try again. sometimes I get lucky and it will start sometimes I have to wait where finally it does start. The mechanic has no idea what it is after spending over $700.00!!! lolololol
Turn the key multiple times in fast secession and see if that helps.
Also see if starting in neutral helps.
Ive had this EXACT issue with my 17 year old Volvo.
Starter was good, battery was good all the wiring was good but sometimes it would NOT engage the starter.
One time I had to have another person holt the key in the Start position while I went under the hood and jumped the starter, the engine started right up. On most cars the Key needs to be in the Start Position for the engine to actually start when you jump the starter.
I figured it either had to be an issue with an interlock switch or the circuitry sending the start signal to the starter. My Volvo will only start in Neutral and with the brake pedal pressed down but I tested that and got consistent signal.
Then I was out of options and just changed the starter solenoid relay and cleaned all the contacts on the relay box and the starter.
The issue has not reappeared.
I believe it was an intermittend fault in the relay.
Your mechanic is a friggin idiot and upseller.
You seem to have intermittent power going to the starter. Possible causes,loose connections,bad ignition switch,bad clutch safety switch. Since you mechanic replaced the starter assembly,sometimes it can something as simple as a bad connection.
Thank you everyone whom replied.... It was a switch from the clutch to the starter. They put in a new switch and it is working perfect. I just question if they put in a NEW starter why didn't they check the switch on the floor board?
@@JoannaMaGrath Because the clutch safety switch is seperate from the starter. The switch is just a contact to make a connection to the starter. Think about the light bulb switch for a lamp. Most people would try to change the light bulb without thinking why would power not flow to the bulb.
FORD GMC DODGE AND EVEN TOYOTA ARE NO BETTER SAME PROBLEMS AT LEAST HYUNDAI KIA GIVE 60,000 MILE BUMPER TO BUMPER AND 100,000 MILE POWER TRANS .. THE OTHERS 36,000 AND 60,000 ..
I’ve handled Kia & Honda parts. Will never buy a Kia.
Yeah I would never buy either brand. Both are cheaply and poorly made.
You need a chevy cruze.
@@acornsucks2111 😅 I had one... 2014 21000kms was on a wrecker 23 times. It went away less than a year into ownership. I still get recall notices in the mail. REGULARLY!
Kinda like the GM V6s in the late 90s in Chevys, Pontiacs etc that blew gaskets and had to be disassembled with only approximately 100,000 miles. Don't get me started on Chevy Vegas and 70s V6 death traps, that died for no reason on the highway, in heavy traffic, putting the drivers and passengers in peril.
Let us talk about Ford's years long scam, with the ever failing Thick Film Ignition Modules, resulting in people like me, carrying a new TFI Module in the glove box, with the little knob tool... Did I mention the TFI scam, ended in a class action suite. Let us not forget Fords self proclaimed superiority of the Twin Eye-beam suspensions on it's pickups for years, that manage to absolutely destroy any tires in less than 30k miles.
Or all the Toyotas with blown gaskets or burn oil when new (fairly recently) that the auto industry hardly talks about.
All of them have built crap at times in the last 20 years and before, and try to blame the owners.
I knew a guy in the 80s that bought a Nap Z engine 4X4 Nissan truck, that blew head gaskets, and Nissan (then Datsun still) blamed the owners. A class action lawsuit proved that the last four headbolt holes were never drilled and tapped deep enough, and the rear of the head on the Nap Z engines wasn't clamped down tight enough because of that....
Some ingenious outfit back then, figured out the head bolts were much longer than needed, and simply made a kit of head bolts that were about 2 or 3mm shorter than from the factory and it fixed it... In the mean time, Nissan was replacing whole engine blocks to fix it LOL
My mother has a 2018 2.4l Sonata, and that thing has almost 90k miles on it and has been perfect, except for a high pressure fuel pump, that was replaced under the warranty, that some here claim "isn't honored" Her Sonata when driven about 70mph down our beltway, gets 40 to 43mpg, better than Hyundai advertised.
In fact, her 2018 Sonata, edged out the same year Honda Accord for long term reliability.