The Problematic Ford Fuel Selector Valve
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- Опубліковано 21 сер 2024
- Fuel Selector Valve I used:
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Fuel Selector Pigtail I used:
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I had this issue with my 1997 Ford F-350 with the 7.3 powerstroke. These trucks come with a dual fuel tank, and as most have found, the selector valve is the weak point of this system. When I hit my fuel selector switch to go from the front tank to the rear tank, I would pop the number 6 fuse. In this video I'm going to go through finding the short in the system, replacing fuel selector valve, and the wiring pig tail.
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Just want to let you know I'll be going Live from the shop for a Q&A on November 25th 2023 at 7:30pm EST. Put it in your Calendar!
Back in the day when you installed an aux fuel tank we just installed a brass valve in the floor you could reach from the drivers seat, end of problem.
That’s probably $1,000 worth of diesel spilled on the ground🤣! Good swap man. I’m looking forward to the fuel kit install.
Thanks for watching. Kit will be coming soon, I got distracted with another project on the truck you’ll see first!
Sweet truck. My 1983 F250 has a little under 400,000 miles and the rear tank just rusted through and is leaking. With luck the selector valve will last until the truck is completely shot.
tell you what...if it does, go buy yourself a lotto ticket. They are known to go bad with the slightest amount of dirt or debris coming from the tank.
@@EverythingElliott A friend had a dual tank Chevy diesel that he was putting fuel in from an unfiltered slip tank. Didn't take long to foul the selector valve. Went through a couple valves before figuring out what was going on. - Good you brought it up. Ordered a new tank and was just going to blow it out with compressed air and install. Better take the time to really clean and inspect it before putting it on.
I had the same exact issue about a month ago and it was one thing on my punch list after my off frame restomod. I swapped the selector valve first, still blew fuses, then swapped the switch, still blew fuses, finally unplugged the harness at the selector valve and then plugged it back in, that fixed it. Now I'm having issues again a few weeks later, but no blown fuses. I'm going to take a better look at the connector this time to see if it's corroded.
Hope it’s an easy fix for yah! Thanks for watching!
@@EverythingElliott I hope so too, only problem is, I'm stuck ont the rear tank and it takes forever because I didn't do the ventod on it and I swapped the old tank for a 38gal. BTW, I wasn't expecting all of that diesel fuel either. I swapped mine in the driveway and was frantically trying to put everything back together. 😭 Good looking truck btw.
Thank you ! Always wondered if I can cancel one of my tanks since I only use the front tank , I wanna use my rear tank and in place of the front tank wanna install a air tank and compressor for train horn and put a connection for a air hose in the front tank door to inflate tires 😎thanks !
Glad the video helped! Have fun with that project, sounds like a good one!
Well that's the same thing happened to me when I change my selector valve on my diesel and I got covered in it at least you would not laying on a creeper like me it sucks
yeah, I've certainly been in your shoes before...it's no fun! Thanks for watching!
What fuse was it blowing
ohhhh it was a long time ago I don't remember exactly which fuse it was, sorry
I think it’s position 6 15amp fuse
Which years use this valve? have a 93 XLT and I do not see it. I am replacing the rear pump.
I believe they used these in 93, it will be on the driver side frame rail directly forward of the front tank
What line was to motor and what was return, I didn’t mark mine either
Tank lines are top and bottom, to the engine and back is the front. They are different sizes so can only make it work one way, the correct way. I mentioned that in the video I believen
What year is the truck Elliot?
It’s a 1997
@@EverythingElliott is installing the selector valve a diy type project. I believe this is the issue for my front tank in my 97 diesel. When I swap to the front, it loses power and stalls as if it's out of fuel. Wanted to give this a shot.
@@LivingBatonRouge you should be able to do it yourself with ease. Make sure you go get a new set of horseshoe clips before you start the project. Those are one time use. And just be prepared for fuel to siphon out of the tank. Clamp it off with vise grips.
@@LivingBatonRouge you might actually have a plugged line. Your selector valve might be switching and fuel just can’t get through. If you’re confident enough you can run 5 PSI of air through your lines from the motor back into the tanks. That’ll blow any gunk back into the tank to be picked up at a later date. The lines you’re looking for come up the front drivers side of your motor behind your AC compressor. Or just subscribe and check out the video that’s posting tomorrow on how to solve all your fuel issues with an E-Fuel kit
What brand and lift capacity is your hydraulic car lift ? Thanks
It’s a bendpak 10,000 pound extra tall 2 post lift
what is the wiring harness part number please?
The link is right in the description of the video, UA-cam won’t let me post the link in a comment for some reason.
I cant find this valve in my 90.
Driver side frame rail. Mine was tucked above the transfer case crossmember. Might be tough to see based on your cab/bed configuration
@@EverythingElliott I'll look again. It's not a 4wd, but I heard 90-96 doesn't have it.
@@redsholsters3544 That certainly isn't true. if you have dual tanks, with a selector switch, you have one. They had a canister style one at one point, you might have one of those. start at one of your tanks and follow the fuel line, you will run into it eventually.
Where are the parts links
They are right in the video description