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ford fuel tank selector valve delete using brass 3 way valves to run
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- Опубліковано 15 жов 2022
- In this video I get both fuel tanks working in our 6.9 idi diesel powered bullnose ford f350 dump truck. I delete the fuel tank selector valve, and install 2 brass manual 3 way valves. All new fuel lines, and fittings. If you enjoy the video, give me a thumbs up! It is really appreciated and helps this video get shown to more people that can benefit from the information I share. for more 6.9 and 7.3 idi content please check out the following links.
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genius stuff from a genius. thanks mucho !!!!!
Another great video Aspie! That's a really great set up for replacing the original transfer valve. Would you happen to have a link to the valves that you used? They look great for this application. Your videos are very informative and motivating. It's really great to see somebody like yourself doing things with their own two hands and the knowledge that God gave you. I love working with my hands and nowadays there's so much information at our fingertips it doesn't make any sense not to use it and the tools that God gave us. Thanks for sharing and keep up the great work. 💪👍
God bless you, you are always here with a comment! Really appreciate it. Here is the Amazon link for the valves I used. Brass Ball Valve, 3 Way, Female NPT 3/8", Lead Free, Panel Mount Option a.co/d/e3J3zaN
Good luck with your project and see you next video.
Great video aspie! Shared alot of information, sizes, and other options for people. Your videos have been improving alot! Thanks for sharing.
UA-cam is not an easy venue. Have to keep trying to better my content. One day maybe I will get it right 😂 thanks fir watching!
Brilliant! Love to see the detailed share of your knowledge and process. You’ve gained a subscriber! Keep up the good, detailed videos!
Appreciate the comment. Next video will be installing a tank sump, the week after will be new power steering hoses.
Best time on YT learning is at the Worthshop!
Thanks appreciate that.
Thanks for the video. I have a 1980 F250 and had an issue with the selector switch. I appreciate the information and your truck is sweet.
Thank you!
Nice having a dump bed for easy access to everything
Truth! Made things alot easier. Thanks for watching, God bless.
Thank you brother much appreciated the wise knowledge
No problem, I enjoy helping other people with their projects and the positive feelings they get when they do. Thanks for watching.
This video was right on time. I was just thinking about this subject and how to go about doing this if I need to. My 1988 F250 7.3 IDI has from what I can tell, the original selector valve and it still works! I'm not the original owner of the truck so somewhere down the road of owners, it may have been changed, but it looks like it's been in there forever. I'm hoping the valve will keep doing what it does though.
Thanks for watching. Hope your selector keeps working good well into the future. In my experience they mostly go to crap from sitting, not being used. If you use yours regularly... Hopefully it is good. Glad to share info and help out. Thanks fir watching, and God bless.
Awesome and informative video Aspie. I'm planning on doing the same thing on my 1990 F-250. I run waste HOC 46 Hydraulic oil.
Sounds like a great plan! Really appreciate the comment. Good luck with your project, and God bless.
Great video a lot of great information.
The only down side is you dump diesel into ground thru that electric pump , why not in a small container?
I believe the point of the 1/2" line up to the fuel pump then smaller after was because one side was suction and one was pressure. WMO flows better on the pressure side.
One side of the stock lift pump can't be changed on the IDI... it's a barb that is permanent to the pump. Wish there was an option that offered 2 threaded ports instead. I've not seen one if there is.
Wasn't 1/2 inch all the way to lift pump. It was 1/2" to valve then into 1/2" valve and out to 3/8" hose to lift pump. I Saw no difference in using a 1/2" valve or 3/8" valve since it has to run 3/8" hose from valve to lift pump. As stated above lift pump is 3/8" and not changeable. Thanks for watching.
You Are Awesome! 👍
Thanks for watching, glad you enjoyed it. Good luck with your project, and God bless
Great video. I needed this. I'm going to do mine soon on my 12 valve. Between you and not so grand Garage hopefully I can get this dual tank set up figured out Lol I've been putting it off for quite some time
I put it off a little while too. Had too many other projects that took priority. Finally got it done though. Even though the video is only 30 minutes. The project took about 8 hours. Good luck, thanks for watching.
@@worthshop I had a question about the sump fuel draw you are doing where it comes out the bottom. If you had a full tank and went to change a fuel filter would the force of the full tank push fuel up to the engine compartment and out? I've been wanting a sump draw also but this is just something I thought about
@@BRWfilms On the 7.3 idi engine the fuel filter is up on top of the engine so it will not flow up hill and out. But if you had a rig that the filter housing is down low, I have seen people install a valve between tank and filter. Shut off the valve, change filter, reopen the valve. Hope this helps.
Wow I wish you were here in FL to help me with my rig
We are opposite corners of the country or I'd definitely give you a hand. Thanks for checking out my chanel. Good luck with your project. Any questions just ask. I will try to help you out.
Hi i have a diesel van and i did a used vegetable oil conversion and I bought two electric 3 way valves for 30€ its way better than those manual T valves in my opinion and so far i didn't had any problems the only companion is that they require more space under the hood. I can leave the link of the amazon seller if anyone is interested. (sorry for my bad english i used google translate)
Thanks for watching. I prefer manual tuff over electric. But someone else may prefer the convenience of the electric valves. Thanks for the suggestion. God bless.
"🤣Only women cares about 2 inches .................😅😂🤣, laughing like that made me feel good. 😀
Glad you found it funny! Thanks for watching.
I fixed mine by leavening it there just to switch between the sensing units. I have the front tank hard plumbed as the main tank then the rear feeds the front no issues. Going on 3yrs. I just have a switch in the cab.
Btw get rid of that stock lift pump. It’s gonna be a pain to bleed w that stock pump. Get an electric unit, & mount under the truck.
That works! Thanks for watching.
A+ for ingenuity but i would never be able to switch tanks on the fly like that as im too fat to reach between the floor
I have seen some people mount the valves to the transmission tunnel. Might be a bit easier to reach for you. Thanks for watching.
I want my own blue nose. In Texas they are worth a lot big price tag.
I watched for sale ads for a few years until I found my blue nose. I wanted an idi powered manual transmission dump truck. Finally found the right one. Idi asking prices up here in Washington are pretty high right now, the idi selling prices after they sit for sale 6 months are much more reasonable. If your on a budget I suggest finding one that is good mechanical, but needs alot of little tlc. Heat don't work, lights not working, so you can get a better deal then slowly repair the tlc stuff. Thanks for watching.
How did you connect half inch lines to your sending unit fittings on top of the tank?
Im trying to run 1/2 inch for the feed and 3/8 for return will I be able to just clamp these on to the sending unit or do I need to change the fittings?
I slipped 1/2 inch over a short piece of the fsctory vinyl fuel line and clamped it right at the quick connect on the front tank. The rear tank I added a sump with 1/2 inch barb fitting outlet. I think trying to put bigger return lines you are just going to cause yourself more headaches, I would just leave them 5/16.
@@worthshop gotcha. Thanks!
Aspie, what starter do you like to put in these trucks? Yours seem to crank faster than mine.
I use high torque gear reduction starters. I bought one local for more $ being impatient, but... They are around $130 on Amazon shipped right to your house. They are a bit smaller so way easier to install. Here is a video when I did my starter.
ua-cam.com/video/eDDanXjLIBM/v-deo.html
Thanks for watching
Where did you get the sumps? Also when im priming a system i have a fuel cap i put a schrader valve in and i put that cap on the tank. Then i put 5-8 psi air on it to push the fuel through the system.
I have heard of that trick from a few people, sounds like a great idea. I found the sump on Amazon, about $48 each
Aspie, I’ll be buying an 88 f250 7.3 idi and the fuel gauge doesn’t work. I’m also looking to run wmo in this truck so I might as well do this manual valve conversion. Does the fuel gauge still work after this conversion? If not, is there any way to make it work? Thanks!
If you leave the switch valve in place it will still read the fuel level in the tanks. Seal up the fuel ports so it don't fill up with gunk.
How can I delete my front tank and the Selector valve and only run off of my rear tank? I’m thinking about upgrading to a 38 gallon tank and installing a sump I have a 7.3 idi I’m also gonna need a new sending unit do you have any recommendations? Thanks for your time
I have not done this project. I did contemplate it but have not. There are some good tech articles if you search Google, and a few videos on doing it. They will be a better source of info than me. Either way, good luck with your project , and God bless.
Hey brother where do you suggest I find me a bigger rear tank?
Ford bronco rear tank is the one most people swap in. I do not have a video, but if you search youtube there are some good videos up.
What size ball valves did you use?
1/2"
I got a question 🤔 if my 6.9 has some blow by is not too bad but it does have some will it be okay to put a turbo on it
My suggestion is to pull the air cleaner, check the air cleaner bolt, and intake screen for excessive oil. All idi engines have a bit of blow by. As long as it's not a steady stream of smoke and oil. Throw a turbo on and run it. Never know, the turbo might even tighten up the rings and help with the blow by. Thanks for watching.
@@worthshop thanks for answering i had replaced the head gaskets and put arp studs on it so it dhould be okay. I will instal it after winter I live in Washington as well and I'm going to use my truck in case of a lot of snow.
@@tinnytomcat Awesome! Let me know how she does in the snow. I have mostly had all 2wd dually idi trucks until recently. Just bought my first 4x4, but it will not be seeing street duty. Building it fir circle track racing and some playing in the mud.
@@worthshop I will. My truck I got it from this guy that put a lift and used it as a mud until head gasket went out he didn't want to fix it so I got it from him it's running good I didn't know nothing about diesels or idi's know I'm a bit obsessed with it 🤣
bro why didn';t you use 12v solenoid valves and wire it into the factory switch on the dash with relays? you thought of everything else!!!!!!!!!!! like a sprinkler solenoid lol!
To be honest with you, I prefer the manual valves. I feel like they will last longer, and stay reliable. Electronics corrode and fail over time. Also I want to be able to control supply and return independent of eachother when running wmo so I can dilute my oil mix by returning to that tank etc Thanks for watching, appreciate the question. God bless.
Im on my 3rd in tank fuel pump and my 3rd fuel selector/resorvior...china pumps china selector...😵💫🫤on my 88 f150
Stuff is not made like it used to be!