Saved me after a few hours of trying to time my s14 sr20det. My chain position moved when I pulled the head. Setting engine to TDC and setting cams to 10 and 12 o'clock worked perfect after counting the links in between, even without having the silver links line up.
This has saved me so many times. The chain always moves no matter how much try to prevent it. Forgetting the chain marks and using this method works perfectly every time
Late to the party but thanks for the informative video. I've been trying to get my sr20det to fire up. Installed my cas with my crank pulley lined up to the tdc mark. Piston one was at the top but my cam lobes were facing in, not out like I just saw in your video. 😅
This was a very good video and a clear explanation. Definitely the best among the ones that come up on youtube. It would have been even more helpful if the position of the cam lobes was focused on and emphasized. Could you please comment on what "overlap" means in relation to the appearance of the cam lobes for cylinder 1? Does it mean that they are asymmetrically angled when at TDC and pointing outward? Also, I noticed before you started rotating the crank pulley that there was slack in the chain. Is there supposed to be that much slack in it when the tensioner is exerting pressure against the chain guide?
Glad this helped. 1st overlap. Most engines on the exhaust stroke the intake valve typically starts to open while the exhaust valve is opened right around top dead center this allows cool air to cool the exhaust valve which is why most intake manifolds on cars are always black and dirty from exhaust going back into the intake manifold during this event called "valve overlap". Twinscroll or 180° headers keeps exhaust pulse from going back up into the intake valve during valve overlap gaining hp. 2) OEM chain tensioner uses oil pressure and a rachet system to tighten the chain. This engine hasn't been run yet so it had slack. If your using a mechanical tensioner like a mazworx unit, then there would be no slack once the tensioner was adjusted. Hope that helps and made sense?
So I’m putting the chain back on, when the exhaust dowel pin is at 12 it’s pushing on the 2nd cylinders springs. So it doesn’t sit nice at 12, any tips on how to install the chain with timing it’s my first time
Yeah the cams will never play nice, springs somewhere will add unwanted tension. I left the timing cover on as I did headstuds and gasket. I think I left it on TDC on the crank and just used sockets on the intake and exhaust cam and rotated them to get the chain on then installed tensioner (trial and error) until it was right. Don't be afraid to turn the crankshaft though if it helps. Lastly play with/instal the CAS/distributer with valve cover off, everyone gets the timing off because the distributer jumps a tooth often. All I got for now good luck 🤙
Does the timing chain realise tension and sag abit when the motor is off is that normal? I just installs a new timing tensioner , when I pull the chain down to see if there’s tension the left cam moves abit , can anyone help out
Good question unfortunately I am not sure. If you have the links and exhaust cam correct you should be setup. However, Mazworx does sell a bolt on timing tool if you want even more assurance.
You are the best, this is the most clear (with vid quality and explanation) of how the timing should be set, thank you!! This was even shot in 4k!
Thanks hope it helped! 🤟
Saved me after a few hours of trying to time my s14 sr20det. My chain position moved when I pulled the head. Setting engine to TDC and setting cams to 10 and 12 o'clock worked perfect after counting the links in between, even without having the silver links line up.
Thanks a lot brother, this video has really saved me, and I can confidently say this is the best Sr20 timing video I could find... 💪💯
Appreciate that glad that helped! I felt all your pain trying to figure it out myself glad I could simplify it.
This has saved me so many times. The chain always moves no matter how much try to prevent it. Forgetting the chain marks and using this method works perfectly every time
I lived the struggle a hundred times I feel ya lol. Glad it helped!
Thank you so much!! Life saver
My pleasure good luck on the SR!
Very helpful cheers
Thanks for the video🤘🏻
Hopefully it helped 🤙
Late to the party but thanks for the informative video. I've been trying to get my sr20det to fire up. Installed my cas with my crank pulley lined up to the tdc mark. Piston one was at the top but my cam lobes were facing in, not out like I just saw in your video. 😅
I was fighting the same headaches for weeks I felt your pain lol glad the video helped. 🤙
This was a very good video and a clear explanation. Definitely the best among the ones that come up on youtube. It would have been even more helpful if the position of the cam lobes was focused on and emphasized.
Could you please comment on what "overlap" means in relation to the appearance of the cam lobes for cylinder 1? Does it mean that they are asymmetrically angled when at TDC and pointing outward?
Also, I noticed before you started rotating the crank pulley that there was slack in the chain.
Is there supposed to be that much slack in it when the tensioner is exerting pressure against the chain guide?
Glad this helped.
1st overlap. Most engines on the exhaust stroke the intake valve typically starts to open while the exhaust valve is opened right around top dead center this allows cool air to cool the exhaust valve which is why most intake manifolds on cars are always black and dirty from exhaust going back into the intake manifold during this event called "valve overlap".
Twinscroll or 180° headers keeps exhaust pulse from going back up into the intake valve during valve overlap gaining hp.
2) OEM chain tensioner uses oil pressure and a rachet system to tighten the chain. This engine hasn't been run yet so it had slack. If your using a mechanical tensioner like a mazworx unit, then there would be no slack once the tensioner was adjusted.
Hope that helps and made sense?
So I’m putting the chain back on, when the exhaust dowel pin is at 12 it’s pushing on the 2nd cylinders springs. So it doesn’t sit nice at 12, any tips on how to install the chain with timing it’s my first time
Yeah the cams will never play nice, springs somewhere will add unwanted tension.
I left the timing cover on as I did headstuds and gasket.
I think I left it on TDC on the crank and just used sockets on the intake and exhaust cam and rotated them to get the chain on then installed tensioner (trial and error) until it was right. Don't be afraid to turn the crankshaft though if it helps.
Lastly play with/instal the CAS/distributer with valve cover off, everyone gets the timing off because the distributer jumps a tooth often.
All I got for now good luck 🤙
@@mannarinodj thank you dude! Gonna give it another go right now
Does the timing chain realise tension and sag abit when the motor is off is that normal? I just installs a new timing tensioner , when I pull the chain down to see if there’s tension the left cam moves abit , can anyone help out
What about the intake dowel pin? Is that suppose to sit at 10 o'clock? Thanks
Good question unfortunately I am not sure. If you have the links and exhaust cam correct you should be setup. However, Mazworx does sell a bolt on timing tool if you want even more assurance.
@@mannarinodj Cool. I'll have to look at it then. Just bought headstuds from them