Power Steering Leak? Check this EASY FIX First
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- Опубліковано 1 чер 2021
- How to diagnose, identify and repair a very common power steering leak. I went through many steps to nail down the source of this leak and I think it may help many of you to save time, money and work in repairing your power steering leak.
The factory hose clamps can not be adjusted and over time they, along with the power steering hose, will lose their sealing / holding power. I will show you the proper hose clamps to use to repair and prevent future leaks.
I hope this video will help many people make a simple repair to their leaking power steering hose.
*If this video was a help to you give it a "thumbs up". If you have not already done so, please consider subscribing to this channel.
Disclaimer:
Although I have been following these procedures for many years; I assume no liability for any damage that may occur to any person or property as a result of the information provided in this video. I take necessary precautions (that I am aware of) when working on these projects but that in no way implies or creates any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any kind of particular result. Any injury, damage or loss of any kind to anyone or their property or anything related to information in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Helping U Online (this video). - Навчання та стиль
THANK YOU!!, you saved me a lot of time, money and worry! My problem was the same as yours and I was able to solve it immediately with a cheap garden hose clamp. Thank you again you are a great teacher.
Glad it helped!
Woow my Camry 2010 has the same problem….thank you so much for your help ❤
If you look up a video by a UA-camr named silver cymbal, he advised the screw tight clamps expand and contract and you have to get the clamps that are designed to keep constant pressure regarding of a screw tightening method. I have also seen hose zip ties that you clamp down with a special tool and they don't expand like metal and keep pressure on the hose.
Thanks for the tip.... I have 2007 Mitsubishi . About once a month ,there is a tell tale moaning and groaning of power steering pump and heaviness which tells me its time to top off resivoir ....Very likely faulty / loose clamp. I just got done upgrading rear door speakers when I noticed the power window motors and lift arm track and roller pulley are installed "dry" at the factory as in no lubricant this shortens life of motors and keeps cash coming in for certified parts and mechanics . I went around to all 4 doors , greased all lift arm tracks AND vertical window tracks with dry silicone lube....also coated inner door , and latch linkage with WD-40. to inhibit rust
WOW ! Night and day ! Huge load off motors and rust prevention , the tracks rust quickly....one was fused with roller pulley and fried motor.
Removing door panel is not as bad as it seems. Have spare nylon plug inserts at the ready ,they get brittle with age and break when prying off door panels.
Useful info-thanks
I've replaced these leaking lines on several of this era Toyota Camry - recognized the engine layout immediately. The Sunsong part on Rock Auto is 26 bucks. It's always been the rubber hose just worn out, hardening, etc, and no longer sealking corrrectly. I recommend sticking with the OE continuous pressure clamps and not switching to worm drive clamps, unless you plan on routinely tightening up your worm drive clamps over time. Two of the Camrys I did the replacement over 3 years ago and they continue to function without any leaking, so I am confident in the quality of the Sunsong parts.
Can you list the part numbers for both hoses?
Great job
Thank you, Helping U online! You just saved me a lot of time and trouble. As well as some cash!
Glad I could help!
Thankyou so much , I’m having that same trouble it’s leaking where the tightners are
Thanks very much.
Quick connect hose clamps are what you should be using. The ones you manually tighten never stay tight because of the fluctuating heat under the hood. Your problem was your clamps. Plain and simple. Cars come with quick connect clamps because they just work better.
You can use worm clamps as long as you put a dab of red loctite on the thread of the screw. It will still come undone with a wrench later but won't back itself out due to heat.
agree those pinch-tension clamps work far better
Then what brand do you recommend for the hose clamps? Can you link it here?
Can you tell me why they work better?
@@kryptk.6it gets hot under hood and go type pinch clamps and you will connect the dots
Thank you good video
i have had great sucess using 2 clamps. It seems there is plenty of room to use double clamps on that one end. Be sure to position the screws 180 degrees from each other. You do not want both screws facing the same direction
Spring clamps are a pain in the neck to get off after they’ve been on for a while, they become embedded in the hose. The low side clamp down at the steering pump can be replaced as well fairly easily while it’s drained and will save you some trouble if there’s a next time around.
Thanks
$116 at the dealership is surprisingly cheap by stealership standards lol Have a 2000 RX 300, replace the steering rack and it’s still leaking and I don’t think it’s the line so I’m still watching
Great video
Thanks!
Great video!
Thanks!
God bless you for saving me from expensive repairs, I had a leak from that exact spot for months . I thought it was the hose but no it was the clamps thank you
Glad it helped… And God bless you too!
I’m having the same issue on 2011 camry but it’s leaking from the other hose, I’m guessing that the high pressure side. I’m not sure if it’s a crack in reservoir or hose. Any suggestions
My 1999 Toyota Solara 3.0L V6 1mzfe appears to have a power steering waterfall going on under the hood.
I used to tight clamps in this video but it appears that my hoses are not good as it seems that the fluid is oozing through the walls of the hoses. I will check the reservoir for cracks as that was the problem on my Freightliner Truck tractor.
The problem is: I am not losing any fluid from the reservoir! The level would not remain the same if I were. I'm not losing engine oil. I'm not losing coolant. I do not see any wetness on my transaxle.
Very perplexing...
Okay this is helpful, but is there another way to test the hose for leaks if you don't have an air gun?
it helped thanks
Glad it helped
What size is the rubber hose that you were going to replace, is it a 3/8in? Have similar issue but going to replace the hose as well. Thanks
did you figured it out what size is the clamp? Thanks. I have similar issue
Imma check my car later for this
Does Tesla have same power steering lines and mechanism?
Cut the hose 1" and reuse.
This is my proble. It's a tiny leak somewhere, with oil spreading just like you described. I'll bring my 1998 Toyota Camry (111,200 miles) to my brother. He's my in-house mechanic.
I have a 1998 Toyota Camry also, 112,800 miles.
Some oil leaking and mechanic wants $600-$700 to fix it. I'm furious. I'll try this clamp solution first. Tks
It was a leak in the oil pump. Had to be replaced.
I bet it’s nice to have that fixed
Thanks for the replies. It wasn't the power steering pump. AAMCO lied to get my money !!!
I'll never use them again.
Has this issue been fixed in this way? My 2009 Camry leaks at the EXACT place.
Still no leaks
I have a leak of the same hose with 2006 Avalon and can't find hose by itself. Mine has the swell at the bottom (the leak also from that bottom end), so I will try to flip the hose and put the end with the swell on top. Hoping it will stop the leak.
Someone suggested Amazon Plews & Edelmann 80565 Molded Power Steering Return Hose
Nice work?💯👍
Thank you! Cheers!
i've had my power steering pump and switch replaced by the mechanics of the people who sold it to me in a town 45 minutes away from me, this was two different trips. it started leaking again and i thought "screw it, i'm going to see the local mechanic" who tells me it's the power steering rack that's leaking. now i'm just wondering if the other parts were leaking at all and if i just replaced parts that didn't even need replacing
My new mechanic AAMCO, strangers to me, want to replace pump for $600-$800. I'm checking with others. Maybe just a clamp leak.
I could fix that myself. And I'm a woman.
Nice video but as I'm checking my car I don't think it's lucky to be right there, you can literally put your finger around the join and will see the oil on it if it leaks from there.
Always double clamp when using those type of clamps
My 2004 Toyota Camry has ABS light and break light on , help!!!
Prolly Sensors
Change ur clamp to a constant tension clamps
No information on the hose, where to buy it, what the diameter is, etc.
first thing i noticed was that oversize clamp was the problem
Mine smokes with the leaks
Tension clamps
Man this is giving me a headache. I recently installed a new power steering pump on my 04 Legacy. Turning is better initially, but the more sharp turns I make, the more the steering wheel gets stiffer. I popped the hood and realized there's a pool of steering fluid that's leaking from the top of the new steering pump. Does anyone have any ideas of what I could try next?
Make sure you are using the right fluid some take power steering fluid and some vehicles take aft fluid
Also make sure you've washers and/or rubbers in place where nuts and pump metal meet.
💯💯⭐️⭐️☝️🔥✌️👍
Those clamps are the wrong clamps. They do not maintain the pressure required for the system
The issue was the old hose, not the clamps. Ask any Engineer. Hardened hoses and O-Rings from the caustic nature of the ATF fluid used in Japanese cars. It goes back to WWII, we didn't want them flying airplanes after their Kamikaze attacks at the end of the war and demanded that they no use oils in power systems that could be converted for aircraft use, like in turbo superchargers. The were forced to use ATF and it continued long into their car manufacturing history, the only major design flaw in Japanese cars. Change the hoses out, not the clamps.
Which hoses?
Don't use. Worm clamps they will cause u problems
Thumbs down. This looks like a PITA fix to me. Wanna know what would have saved time and energy. When a leak is found in the line and they only sell the whole line, then REPLACE THE WHOLE LINE. Then you know it's all brand new and the clamps are correctly sized. This video is a homemade fix to a homemade problem. If the whole line was replaced when the leak was first found, this video wouldn't exist. The other end of the line is just as old, so don't be surprised if it starts leaking very soon.
Next I'll be hearing some garbage like DEX-Cool is a bad coolant and OAT is a different type of coolant LOL
worm-gear clamps are not bad as long as you don't over tighten them.