Hey Andrew! When you do an "OPEN THE LINES" brake service, use a stick to hold the brake pedal down a few inches, that way, the fluid can only escape from the lines, after the master cylinder, and will reduce dripping on you while you work. There will be a lot of pressure in the line, when it is first opened, but after that, the fluid will just drip from the line, and not from the reservoir, or the master cylinder. That also helps prevents air from traveling up into the master cylinder, causing more bleeding issues. The reservoir is open to the system, until the piston travels a few millimeters. Then the piston cuts off the hole from the reservoir, to build pressure in the line. I also like to vacuum the fluid out of the master cylinder, first. It keep the amount of old dirty fluid from being forced into the system. Just suck out the old fluid, refill with new fluid, then go on with the brake work. When you get ready to bleed, you are already using clean fresh fluid, and not mixing and forcing old nasty fluid thru the system. So, when you see fresh fluid at the bleed screw, you know that you have pushed new fluid that far thru the system, then the next bleeder will not take as much to bleed!
Hi Andrew. I'm an Andrew too and i'm a mechanic out here in New Zealand. So I'm going to say you make a good job of your repairs. The only things id suggest is when you are fitting the rotor wire brush the back of the hub where it mounts so you don't drag dirt into the gap. Also grease the end of the axle where it has gone rusty on the splines. When they get rusty there they will flog the splines out of the drive plate quicker than normal. We also usually put the caliper in the vice and take it off the mount and then fit the mount the pads and then the caliper. that way it saves the pads from falling out as you try putting the whole assy in and you don't know if they did the caliper to mount bolts up tight in the factory. With those mitsis its easy to stop the pads from getting crooked in the mount but other cars with thin rotors there's no room to stick a screwdriver or you finger to keep the pads straight. You do well and id feel safe to be in any vehicle you have worked on. Thanks for making all the videos you do as i think I've learned a lot about your work over the last couple of years. You are good at what you do.
I agree. Fitted new rotors and calipers on my Jeep and "forgot" to clean the hub for dirt and corrosion. Created a minor/medium misalignment and resulting in warped rotors. Have since gotten one of those tiny band sanders pluss wire brush on air and haven't had any problems after my second change. Was an expensive learning lesson though.
Yes, andrewkiwi1,..I thought to myself, " Ohhhh, you forgot to clean that hub assembly of that rust and crap!" But then, Andrew seems to 'get away' with doing that. If I did it, I'd had problems for sure. ( not to mention that we never see a torques wrench used on any job.) BUT the entertainment value is tops.
@@regsparkes6507 Yes It is good workshop practice. You'll get away with it often but there will be that one time when you don't and if you are doing a job for a customer it has got to be right first time or you loose money, then you upset the customer and if you are working for someone, piss them off too and get bitched at. Its easy enough to make mistakes at the best of times when everything is going right. You don't need to tempt fate. So you just do things the right way.
This is a guy that deserves success. Hard work and not afraid to tackle anything. MacGyver, one day, will hang a picture of Andrew on his wall as inspiration.
I appreciate your willingness to show everything that happens on the jobs you do and also appreciate the comedic value it brings. That "magic of editing" moment was hilarious. Cheers mate and keep up the great content.
i guess im asking randomly but does anybody know of a trick to log back into an Instagram account? I stupidly forgot the password. I appreciate any assistance you can give me.
@Carmelo Jackson thanks for your reply. I got to the site through google and Im in the hacking process atm. I see it takes quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
I like to replace the soft brake lines coming off the caliper too. The inside of the lines can delaminate and only allow brake fluid to travel one way causing to caliper to drag or lock up.
Agreed. I do that anytime I have caliper issues. Replacing both prevents having to go back in again to replace the line when it turned out to not be the caliper.
Finally I found someone with some great advice always change old brake HOSES even though there not split on the outside sometimes inside restricts fluid flow which can also cause calipers to stay engaged , clean bearings Check for pitting if ok reinstall light grease , new inner grease seal ,tighten all nuts and bolts to torque specs. !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! kudos for making great videos no Shade at all just many years experience PEACE
Very wise man, it has taken me 70 years to learn some of the stuff you have already learned. Most of my was school of hard knocks/experience. Good luck Andrew.
Andrew, your wisdom is far beyond your years! I'm well into my 70's and like you grew up looking over my dads shoulder when he worked on his vehicles, and learned how to make those repairs. The smartest statement you've made yet is "I never let someone else work on my stuff", and maybe the second smartest thing is "I work alone". If there is any way to do it yourself you'll be money ahead in the long run. Seems people don't have pride in workmanship any more!
Another great DIY repair mate, happy new year from Australia. I spent the last week working on my Diesel Mini, fixing the DPF or Diesel Particulate Filter, my wife even allowed me to use our pyrolytic self cleaning oven to burn out all of the soot. Worked a treat and we are back in business. It’s really awesome when a plan comes together !
I just bought a 92 mighty max 4x4 and I was a little intimidated by the front brakes with the hub assembly and whatnot. This video definitely instilled some confidence in doing them myself. Great simple breakdown! Thanks!
Damn, I was looking forward to some armchair critiquing on this one, but nice job. Some call me a miserable barsteward, but I love Health and Safety and it gives me a warm fuzzy feeling when I see others observe it, I bet your father is damn proud of you as I would be. Happy New Year from the UK.
Thank you so much for making this video! I just put new rotors, calipers, and pads on my 2001 Montero Sport....couldn't have done it without this video!
Just wanted to say a big thanks for posting this. Helped us no end in doing this successfully by ourselves. Removing the disc from the hub assembly was a right bastard though!.
We have them around here in KY. We call them "meth heads". I'm like Andrew. I hate for anyone to work on my stuff. Of course there are times I can't, but I am real particular on whom does the work. A lot of dealers around here are scams and plus, they dont do what you pay them for. I paid to have my yamaha motorcycle serviced and about 2 years later, I found out it wasn't done. It still had locktite on cover bolts from factory. I called the owner and his response was, "I don't know what to say". Really?!? What about "I am sorry. Bring it back in and we'll do it right and give you a refund or crefit for your trouble. The dealer was 2 counties away, so not too close. You've got to be careful. A local chevy/ford dealership and z dodge dealership treated me the same way. It's a shame.
you know what... I was thinking the exact same thing. Did it on 3 cars now. Not only looks great but improves your sight as well. Oh and of course... the best wishes for 2019 from The Netherlands, Europe! Always a pleasure watching your vid's.
Great demo, Andrew! I love to watch and listen to your work! The only addition to the way I do it (55 yrs !) is that I run the engine while my lovely assistant, my wife, hits the brakes! That way it doesn't give a false sense of firmness. You are helping all of us in so many ways...keep up the awesome stuff you do!
I had a brake line (rubber) rupture, but didn't leak. The line is a line inside a line. It made my brake stay on. I replaced it, fixed it. You do great job explaining what you do. Lots of good info. Thanks
Have you ever heard of anti-seize? It would have kept your bolts from being so hard to get off, plus the axle splines. Have a good day, I've been waiting for a new video to surface. See ya mark
on the calipers, you can bleed them yourself in about 5 minutes. I Pre fill the caliper with fresh brake fluid, and give it a few taps on the ground to let the air bubbles work out.. Then top it off, and connect the hose. get the banjo fitting almost tight but loose enough to leak, and watch to see when no air is bubbling out between the copper gasket. then tighten it up, and crack the bleeder on the caliper to let out any residual air. usually the pedal is firm at this point but if the pedal is still soft, give it 5 or 10 fast pumps until the pedal is hard, and wedge a board between the seat and the pedal to hold it down. usually once or twice is enough to get the air out. love the videos.
Archimedes “Give me a place to stand and with a lever I will move the whole world” If he had a car, he would also have mentioned changing the breaks ; )
Probably doesnt expect it to last long enough to be a big deal. Already really rusty and after another winter it will probably need more repairs then its worth. Never know though.
@68Camaro RS/SS Are you stupid or just a troll? I live in MI and our roads are worse then yours and have seen all my vehicles destroyed prematurely because of salt use. Rust and suspension damage. What now douche?
@@xcalibertrekker6693 Yeah northern cars and trucks just get eaten up by salt. A southern vehicle may need paint, but won't be a rust bucket underneath.
Ive got a better challenge than ^^^ ...someone try to string a paragraph together that makes you sound like more of a tool than 68camaro. I will get a lawyer to draw you up a nice picture of a giraffe, or another animal of your choice, as a reward.
You may be replacing the master cylinder in the near future. Often times when bleeding the brakes by pressing the pedal all the way to the floor, you are pushing the master cylinder piston pass a area it has never been that often has a residue buildup which causes damage to the cup resulting in a internal leak. Yes I was trained at the hydraulic brake school in New Brunswick New Jersey.
Very educational Andrew, im 79 now and have a basic knowledge of how things work, but i learned something here, thankyou. I guess you're self taught, and for someone who is self taught, you have a lot of knowledge. Btw, i have subscribed to your channel, should have done so a long time ago. Bob, NZ.
I’ve been doing my own brakes for many years without the luxury of a lift,which certainly would have made it easier. My 2003 Dodge Dakota seemed to eat front rotors. They were certainly easier to change than your Montero! Another great video. Thanks Andrew! Happy New Year!
Yes I’ve learned that from you. It’s a height issue in my pole barn. I built it with high ceilings but unfortunately not enough for a lift. Could build smaller shed like yours on the side but at 64 years old.....
That's what I was thinking it seems unnecessary. The caliper and tire should suffice in holding the rotor in place. That's why it takes me less then a half hour a side to change pads rotor and caliper on my f-350
You should have replaced your flex brake line going to your caliper, over time they swell up inside and it won't release all the way......ask me how I know I replaced the caliper 3 times before It worked
I had 1989 Mitsu Montero Sport 4WD and did my own maint & repairs including brakes and watching this took me back. I kept it for about 14 yrs and I had to change the brake master cylinder only once. Great videos dude.
Like you I had a tire that was a little hard to remove, long story shortened...driving truck on gravel road, flat front tire, jack up to remove lug nuts, no hubcap so threads are bad, each nut 5 minutes to remove ( no joke ) went to remove rim, would not break free, pound on with small sledge hammer , try many times, will not break free, let truck back down and start driving , still no go, stop and check to see if forgot a nut, no nuts on rim, start driving again turning wheel back and forth now digging up road, finally it breaks free, now truck is on the ground and cant get jack under it , use tire iron to dig under frame to get jack under, jack truck up, now truck to low to get tire on because jack is in hole, have to dig hole in road so I can get tire on , success, ( well used road so very well packed, started around 12am ended after 4am , started raining 1/2 way threw ) 100% true story, was 30+ years ago, I did fill in holes before I left
I love that hand impact tool you used on the passenger side. I've got one that was made probably 40 years ago by Craftsman, it's not something you need everyday but when you need it, you really need it.
Your calipers are hanging up because you aren’t servicing them Andrew. The bolts that hold the calipers to the brackets go into slide pins. You need to remove them and clean and grease them usually twice a year or when you press the brakes they squeeze but won’t slide back out. Most of the time there is no need to replace your caliper. As for brakes. I will stick with the type that don’t have me removing 10 bolts just to separate the rotors from all the other parts. I guess you remembered to reinstall the hub cap retainer wire before you finished the job. You didn’t have them on either side when you were about to put the tires on.
Was glad to see the psychedelic spud ratchet make a special guest star appearance! Love that thing, but go easy on the hammer function. Good vid Andrew 🤜🤛
The one problem with being a one man operation and a DIY mechanic is when you are doing your own repairs you are not making any money with your business. Thats OK if your billing at $100 an hr and a mechanic costs $100 but if you bill at $200 an hr your DIY work is costing you $200. I used to do everything myself until it started costing me money. Not taking anything away from your work ethic but sometimes it costs you money. BTW nice job on the brakes
RD certainly valid comments about the opportunity costs of DIY. However if his seasonal business slows in winter his cost of DIY will be less. With a UA-cam channel Andrew has the chance to make money based on views as well sponsorships etc. For example if Andrew had an Amazon link to the impact screwdriver I might have already placed an order paying him a commission. 😀
I too am self employed & like to work on my own equipment, house, property & etc. I do this because I want to save money & because I know how to fix/repair/build the item needing done. Plus, I want the feeling that I did it & it's most likely done right. As far as saving money not paying others to do this...I feel that I can do these projects on my own time after other paying projects are done for the day or weekends. A lot of homeowners don't want someone/contractor at their home on weekends working, they're wanting a quiet weekend to themselves. Most people only believe in a 5 day/40 hour work week, while others believe in a 7 day/80 hour work week. However, there is no right or wrong answer...as long as we're all happy.
It also depends on your time. I am a self employed contractor, but I cannot, or don't want to, be at someone's house or business at all hours. There is ALWAYS down time and sometimes using that time to DIY is helpful. And if I have the time, and can save several hundred dollars, why not?
Certainly applicable in some instances. However, if his overhead is low, and he isn't working 70-80hrs a week just to meet expenses, this type maintenance could easily be cost effective. He seems quite opportunistic and taking jobs, but he could clearly be in a position to manage his time...taking jobs needed/wanted, staying ahead in capital (to buy more toys/equipnment) and enjoying work on his property and equipment. That seems to be a big part of him...same here with me:)
Your road and countrysidelooks like my road. I live out in the country in the foothills of the Appalachian Mts. I wish you lived closer to my place. I could learn a lot from you.
Thanks Andrey that you please us, the subscribers with new parts of the work and life. It is pleasant to see people who know how to do and can do work as the hands. Do not take offense, but small remarks: the disk heated up from the fact that that the hydraulic cylinder was oxidized and did not remove a brake shoe (it is possible to clean and grease with copper lubricant); development in a brake disk can be pierced on the lathe (it can long work, 80000-100000mil). I wait with impatience for your new videos, good luck and luck to you, and pretty Miss. Hi from Russia, Rostov-on to Don.
I've found gravity bleeding to be pretty effective. Messing with the pedal can easily add more smaller air bubbles to the system if done wrong making the process take much longer. Gravity bleeding you can crack a beer, do it by yourself, and relax. Since I found your channel I've been rounding out my Craftsman C3 collection. Picked up the impact driver which you seem to use on every job and this thing's great. Been doing all kinds of stuff. Your reaction when your employee drained your transmission fluid was hilarious. Have a great year man.
Considering you can get quality new ones cheap, it's generally not worth it to refurbish them. And only reason to really replace them is if they are rusted heavily or are beginning to stick and wear pads unevenly.
@@enriqueortiz5440 Last time i checked they were about 100$. A few minutes spent cleaning it up and putting in fresh grease is almost free. The slide pins is usually the problem and can be replaced dirt cheap if needed together with new rubber seals.
Andrew - Thanks for posting this. I know it takes a lot of extra work to video while you are trying to get a job done. Super grateful that you took the time to do this. This has been super helpful to me with getting my head around pulling the rotors on my Delica. Thx.
Hey Andrew, old friend ! ! ! first of all ... best wishes to YOU and your family! Hope u-all have a happy, healthy and prosperous 2019 !!! i started to laugh when u mentioned bout employees who aren't as 'smart' as they tell u they are ..... saying this shortly after dealing with "help" who didn't have a clue how to bleed brakes! I'm sure u appreciated this friends help cuz u really needed him in this situation and he did what needed to be done. He was a good friend to have!!!! As far as 'employees' go ... God knows how many of them "knowledgeable, experienced" hiree's i dealt with during my years in business .... hiring them .. only to let them go after just a week or two, since they wouldn't agree to a cut in pay. Wish i had a buck for each one of them . LOL if I did, I'd be retired in the Philippines now, chasing younger women instead of stuck here on the east coast, watchin the sky for snow! LOL {:
Back when I made the mistake of owning a Ford I replaced four calipers on the same wheel and then Ford issued a technical service bulletin recalling the hoses between the caliber in the frame because internally they were collapsing and not releasing pressure ever since then I’ve owned Nissan products and I’ve never look back you’re definitely right about the Japanese vehicles Also still laughing about the red oil lol
I owned a 2008 Nissan Altima that I bought new and it went through OEM, dealer bought brakes like crazy, had engine electrical issues, and the transmission shit the bed at 80K miles. I had a 2002 Camry I bought used with only 34K miles on it and the transmission cracked almost in half before hitting 50K miles. My latest blunder was a 2013 Subaru Outback. After the warranty was up I replaced both front wheel bearings, replaced brakes(third set in 112K miles) replaced the transmission, and now it's off the road because it's burning a quart of oil about every 250 miles. Over the years of I've owned and got rid of many vehicles but one thing is for certain, my two Ford Trucks('78 Bronco and '79 F350) that I bought in the early 80's are still chugging along reliably. They both have original drivetrains and both go for much longer intervals before any repairs are needed in comparison to any foreign vehicle I've ever owned.
Just a recommendation, you should always take the slides out of new calipers and re-grease them. They're only applied enough for shipping purposes and to sit on a shelf for awhile. Also the rotors are coated with an oil base in order to prevent the bare metal from rusting while sitting on the shelf at parts stores.
Andrew, you are spot on about Japanese vehicles and new parts. I have an old Tundra with many miles. Once an original caliper or bearing wear out it seems I am more likely to replace the newer part again before another original wears out.
"When the student is ready, the teacher will appear!" Andrew, you can be that teacher however, you must find the right person who already has mechanical skills and right attitude and then you mold and teach him how you like things done. It is a transition most of us, (whom run a business) must make as we get older so, don't fear the process. Usually it is better if that person is not a friend of many years. Happy new Year Andrew and keep up the awesome videos
A friend of mine who is a "Expert Technician" at a Toyota dealer checks wheel bearings similar to the way you do it, except if he can, he will grab the strut and spin the wheel, feeling for any roughness in the bearings, since the noise is transmitted through the front end. Good video though... and Happy New Year! Watching your videos with you driving around makes me want to get the hell out of Florida!
Ernie Laurent Eric O is a shop owner, and a professional mechanic. Andrew is not. I'm sure Andrew does a better job at operating heavy equipment. Thanks for pointing that out tho. Very nice of you to do so!! When Eric does a video on excavating for his septic service, I hope that you will tell him that Andrew does a better job of it!
Also when you have a bad caliper, the vehicle will usually pull to the bad side while you're going down the road. Your former "employee" must've thought he found the life blood of your vehicle when changing the "oil". Nice work Andrew.
I forgot to compliment you on a different video where you were fixing the old chainsaw and you used a nail to make a new part for the spring. That was pretty awesome. Great videos. Edit - as I continue to watch this video you failed to back the bearings with grease using your hand and did not torque the retaining nut. Spraying all the rusting surface metal you can reach with something like wd 40 would not have hurt. This criticizing others is fun, thank you.
First I'd like to say that I am a fan, I think I've seen most of your videos. I have been an Auto & Diesel mechanic since 1980 and ASE Certified since 1990. I noticed that you didn't clean and repack the bearings. Not cleaning the bearings (inner and outer) will cause premature failure due to friction and heat. I also noticed that you didn’t lubricate the backs of the pads (to ensure proper brake pad seating and prevent squealing). You also didn’t lubricate the slides so that the caliper can adjust properly. In fact you didn’t check the slides at all on the old bracket and didn’t lubricate the slides on the new bracket. While you might have been right, that the caliper was hung up, but without checking the slides, you’ll never know. In my experience the slides are what usually hang up due to rust, not the caliper (which only hangs up due to contaminated brake fluid). Next time pick up a bottle of anti-seize (Silver) and lubricate all the moving parts; your brake pads will last a lot longer, at lower operating temperatures and with less issues overall.
I like to use window cleaner on new discs to clean them, just watch for lint... I also use silicon paste on anything that moves. It's also not a bad idea to put some kind of grease on the edges of the pistons in the caliper. I also check the pins, sometimes they don't grease them good and I also like to purge all the air out of the little rubber boots. You did a good install and I'm sure a lot of people will learn from this. Now all you need is some metric flare nut wrenches and some better impact sockets and you'll be Mr. Brake change master! Happy New Year.
Always enjoy your videos and working principles. I keep a 3 ft breaking bar handy and put it over the handle and it really makes breaking those tight nut easier to remove. Keep up the good attitude.
Whenever doing a brake job for a rust belt car You have to clean out the groves that the stainless hardware go in with a file. Put a nice coat of brake grease in them and put new hardware in. Also grease the slide pins. I do this even on brand new calipers. The pins never have enough grease. Also grease the caliper piston and the opposite side the parts that touch the pad. Doing this on every brake job helps hold back the rust that forms and siezes the pads in caliper bracket.
I love all your content, I just discovered it this past week. I've been binge watching! Keep up the great work man, you've truly inspired me to try to fix things I wouldn't have in the past!
That orange camo ratchet thing cracks me up. I'm sure it's a handy tool but I laughed when I saw them in Tractor Supply. Not sure I could use one with a straight face. Keep up the good work!
I only change my brake calipers when they have problems but when I do I always change the hoses to it's cheap insurance and make sure you lube your pens with anti seize should help you with the life of your calipers. I noticed JC Smith puts it on the The hub faces to prevent the rims from sticking never had that problem or need to try it but it could be something that helps you.
Good work. Love Monteros. I usually clean the rust, put some grease and some black rust converter paint. And yeap i do my oil changes too even in winter.. without a garage with 30 F I had a great experience at Canadian Tire rounding my oil plug when the use an impact gun to put the plug..
Andrew, love your work and I think you do awesome road repairs, landscaping, and all around a great contractor. You do things I wouldn't come close to doing. But as a professional automotive tech it can be hard watching do work on cars/trucks. I give you credit that you definitely know and can do more than most. You are determined that's for sure. Just some things I have to grit my teeth. Don't take it wrong I am not trying to criticize you at all. I am just a perfectionist in my trade as I am sure you are in yours. Take care and since I found your channel I can't get enough.
@@AndrewCamarata Not yet. I only found your awesome channel a couple weeks ago. I am so far behind and very interested and intrigued with your work ethics and quality. You are well versed in many areas. My dogs are suffering from lack of attention now...lol. I will have to search for that video.
Finally, I was getting Camarata withdrawals!! Happy new year from Ireland 🇮🇪
Good man 👍🏻
X2
Im in Tyrone, Where are you?
Raymond Devlin Tipperary 👍
@@raymonddevlin1272 Dublin here 👌
Hey Andrew! When you do an "OPEN THE LINES" brake service, use a stick to hold the brake pedal down a few inches, that way, the fluid can only escape from the lines, after the master cylinder, and will reduce dripping on you while you work. There will be a lot of pressure in the line, when it is first opened, but after that, the fluid will just drip from the line, and not from the reservoir, or the master cylinder. That also helps prevents air from traveling up into the master cylinder, causing more bleeding issues. The reservoir is open to the system, until the piston travels a few millimeters. Then the piston cuts off the hole from the reservoir, to build pressure in the line.
I also like to vacuum the fluid out of the master cylinder, first. It keep the amount of old dirty fluid from being forced into the system. Just suck out the old fluid, refill with new fluid, then go on with the brake work. When you get ready to bleed, you are already using clean fresh fluid, and not mixing and forcing old nasty fluid thru the system. So, when you see fresh fluid at the bleed screw, you know that you have pushed new fluid that far thru the system, then the next bleeder will not take as much to bleed!
good advice and good workshop practice. Certainly replace the fluid in the reservoir
Hi Andrew. I'm an Andrew too and i'm a mechanic out here in New Zealand. So I'm going to say you make a good job of your repairs. The only things id suggest is when you are fitting the rotor wire brush the back of the hub where it mounts so you don't drag dirt into the gap. Also grease the end of the axle where it has gone rusty on the splines. When they get rusty there they will flog the splines out of the drive plate quicker than normal. We also usually put the caliper in the vice and take it off the mount and then fit the mount the pads and then the caliper. that way it saves the pads from falling out as you try putting the whole assy in and you don't know if they did the caliper to mount bolts up tight in the factory. With those mitsis its easy to stop the pads from getting crooked in the mount but other cars with thin rotors there's no room to stick a screwdriver or you finger to keep the pads straight. You do well and id feel safe to be in any vehicle you have worked on. Thanks for making all the videos you do as i think I've learned a lot about your work over the last couple of years. You are good at what you do.
I agree. Fitted new rotors and calipers on my Jeep and "forgot" to clean the hub for dirt and corrosion. Created a minor/medium misalignment and resulting in warped rotors. Have since gotten one of those tiny band sanders pluss wire brush on air and haven't had any problems after my second change. Was an expensive learning lesson though.
Yes, andrewkiwi1,..I thought to myself, " Ohhhh, you forgot to clean that hub assembly of that rust and crap!"
But then, Andrew seems to 'get away' with doing that. If I did it, I'd had problems for sure. ( not to mention that we never see a torques wrench used on any job.)
BUT the entertainment value is tops.
@@regsparkes6507 Yes It is good workshop practice. You'll get away with it often but there will be that one time when you don't and if you are doing a job for a customer it has got to be right first time or you loose money, then you upset the customer and if you are working for someone, piss them off too and get bitched at. Its easy enough to make mistakes at the best of times when everything is going right. You don't need to tempt fate. So you just do things the right way.
andrewkiwi1 Good to see a fellow Kiwi on here,Im into mid 90"s mitsis mainly L200 4x4 utes but never owned a Challenger here
@@andrewkiwi1 Absolutely!
This is a guy that deserves success. Hard work and not afraid to tackle anything. MacGyver, one day, will hang a picture of Andrew on his wall as inspiration.
I appreciate your willingness to show everything that happens on the jobs you do and also appreciate the comedic value it brings. That "magic of editing" moment was hilarious. Cheers mate and keep up the great content.
Thanks for providing coffee time entertainment again, I’ve missed you
It was a very good video
i guess im asking randomly but does anybody know of a trick to log back into an Instagram account?
I stupidly forgot the password. I appreciate any assistance you can give me.
@Boone Sergio instablaster ;)
@Carmelo Jackson thanks for your reply. I got to the site through google and Im in the hacking process atm.
I see it takes quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Carmelo Jackson It did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. I'm so happy!
Thank you so much, you saved my account :D
I like to replace the soft brake lines coming off the caliper too. The inside of the lines can delaminate and only allow brake fluid to travel one way causing to caliper to drag or lock up.
Agreed. I do that anytime I have caliper issues. Replacing both prevents having to go back in again to replace the line when it turned out to not be the caliper.
You are right, It creates a check valve. Often times caused by letting the caliper hang by the hose.
That could have been the problem here, lets see how the new calipers perform
Have had that happen.
Finally I found someone with some great advice always change old brake HOSES even though there not split on the outside sometimes inside restricts fluid flow which can also cause calipers to stay engaged , clean bearings Check for pitting if ok reinstall light grease , new inner grease seal ,tighten all nuts and bolts to torque specs. !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! kudos for making great videos no Shade at all just many years experience PEACE
Thumbs up for still wearing gloves that are completely destroyed. LOL You are a literal genius, Andrew. Keep up the good work! Happy New Year.
Finger nails are covered lol
Real mechanic. No fancy stuff
That kid that Andrew had work for him is now the Manager at Jiffy Lube. LOL.
Fuck jiffy lube they are scam artist
@@moonlandingagain3228 Jiiffy my ass!
@@moonlandingagain3228 LICKEY LUBE ARE RIP OFFS
SCAMMED ME OUTTA 300 FOR A OIL CHANGE
ONLY IDIOTS GO TO SKICKY LUBE
~~~~~~~ Baaaaaaaahhhhh...LOL...... That is so true!.... Plus they are scam artists!
11:34 Yep, never know when you'd need then. Hence: wear PPE everytime. Great content Andrew, I watch 'em all!
Very wise man, it has taken me 70 years to learn some of the stuff you have already learned. Most of my was school of hard knocks/experience. Good luck Andrew.
infra red temp sensors do not read shinny metal accurately. Reflective affects reading.
Happy New Year Andrew. Hope you have a great 2019.
Your vids are the best vids on UA-cam. The world needs more men like you.
Andrew, your wisdom is far beyond your years! I'm well into my 70's and like you grew up looking over my dads shoulder when he worked on his vehicles, and learned how to make those repairs. The smartest statement you've made yet is "I never let someone else work on my stuff", and maybe the second smartest thing is "I work alone". If there is any way to do it yourself you'll be money ahead in the long run.
Seems people don't have pride in workmanship any more!
That wheel bearing retainer didn't look like it was locked properly, but kinda hard to tell from youtube. Awesome job! Love the videos
Always love your videos! Did anyone else see the rainbow at 2:40 in the background? Really cool, great view! 🌈
just started watching your vids Andrew by far the best channel on youtube! very educational, all the best from wales !
Another great DIY repair mate, happy new year from Australia.
I spent the last week working on my Diesel Mini, fixing the DPF or Diesel Particulate Filter, my wife even allowed me to use our pyrolytic self cleaning oven to burn out all of the soot. Worked a treat and we are back in business.
It’s really awesome when a plan comes together !
I just bought a 92 mighty max 4x4 and I was a little intimidated by the front brakes with the hub assembly and whatnot. This video definitely instilled some confidence in doing them myself. Great simple breakdown! Thanks!
Damn, I was looking forward to some armchair critiquing on this one, but nice job.
Some call me a miserable barsteward, but I love Health and Safety and it gives me a warm fuzzy feeling when I see others observe it, I bet your father is damn proud of you as I would be.
Happy New Year from the UK.
"Umm, something is wrong, your engine oil is red." lmao. You got away easy with that guy. Good employees are worth it...if you can find any.
Thank you so much for making this video! I just put new rotors, calipers, and pads on my 2001 Montero Sport....couldn't have done it without this video!
Glad it helped.
Just wanted to say a big thanks for posting this. Helped us no end in doing this successfully by ourselves. Removing the disc from the hub assembly was a right bastard though!.
"looks pretty red, huh? you think that was engine oil or you think that was maybe somethin' else?"
"Bruh you know I just changed the oil and now like the car doesn't wanna turn, what junk mitsubishi" lololol jk
This is the sauciest I've ever seen Andrew. This right here.
We have them around here in KY. We call them "meth heads". I'm like Andrew. I hate for anyone to work on my stuff. Of course there are times I can't, but I am real particular on whom does the work. A lot of dealers around here are scams and plus, they dont do what you pay them for. I paid to have my yamaha motorcycle serviced and about 2 years later, I found out it wasn't done. It still had locktite on cover bolts from factory. I called the owner and his response was, "I don't know what to say". Really?!? What about "I am sorry. Bring it back in and we'll do it right and give you a refund or crefit for your trouble. The dealer was 2 counties away, so not too close. You've got to be careful. A local chevy/ford dealership and z dodge dealership treated me the same way. It's a shame.
Bwahahaha
The next step is to clean the haze off those headlights so you can see at night. :) Great work Andrew!
you know what... I was thinking the exact same thing. Did it on 3 cars now. Not only looks great but improves your sight as well. Oh and of course... the best wishes for 2019 from The Netherlands, Europe! Always a pleasure watching your vid's.
yup, just did mine with 1,500, 2,000 wet sand paper and sealed them. What a difference Btw, tooth paste doesn't work for shxx.
Great demo, Andrew! I love to watch and listen to your work! The only addition to the way I do it (55 yrs !) is that I run the engine while my lovely assistant, my wife, hits the brakes! That way it doesn't give a false sense of firmness.
You are helping all of us in so many ways...keep up the awesome stuff you do!
I had a brake line (rubber) rupture, but didn't leak. The line is a line inside a line. It made my brake stay on. I replaced it, fixed it. You do great job explaining what you do. Lots of good info. Thanks
Happy New Year. I agree with not having to change out good bearings but I was taught a B.O.C.E.S to always clean a repack them with new grease.
"he didn't know what the problem was, and that's why I do everything myself" lmao, you are a wise man
Andrew is the man who doesn’t buy quarts of oil. He goes for the 5 gal pail size. Great example of brake repair. Happy New Year
My first car was an Isuzu Trooper too Andrew. Awesome vehicle, still miss it when I see one.
Have you ever heard of anti-seize? It would have kept your bolts from being so hard to get off, plus the axle splines. Have a good day, I've been waiting for a new video to surface.
See ya
mark
Have you heard of minding your business no one asked for your stupid opinion it's his SUV not yours
"You dont see a problem with that?" Damn, you crack me up.
That was probably the most unique way to get a wheel that was stuck on the hub loosened! Loved it!!!
on the calipers, you can bleed them yourself in about 5 minutes. I Pre fill the caliper with fresh brake fluid, and give it a few taps on the ground to let the air bubbles work out.. Then top it off, and connect the hose. get the banjo fitting almost tight but loose enough to leak, and watch to see when no air is bubbling out between the copper gasket. then tighten it up, and crack the bleeder on the caliper to let out any residual air. usually the pedal is firm at this point but if the pedal is still soft, give it 5 or 10 fast pumps until the pedal is hard, and wedge a board between the seat and the pedal to hold it down. usually once or twice is enough to get the air out. love the videos.
Archimedes
“Give me a place to stand and with a lever I will move the whole world”
If he had a car, he would also have mentioned changing the breaks ; )
good job...easy fix apart from the stuck bits.
Abs is one of the things that just changed the transport industry and has saved many lives over the years especially with heavy loads and motorcycles
Your channel's tag line should be...."alright, thats fixed!" I enjoy your channel, thanks for taking the time to post these.
i cant believe you left the splines dry of grease on the first one
Probably doesnt expect it to last long enough to be a big deal. Already really rusty and after another winter it will probably need more repairs then its worth. Never know though.
@68Camaro RS/SS Are you stupid or just a troll? I live in MI and our roads are worse then yours and have seen all my vehicles destroyed prematurely because of salt use. Rust and suspension damage. What now douche?
@@xcalibertrekker6693 Yeah northern cars and trucks just get eaten up by salt. A southern vehicle may need paint, but won't be a rust bucket underneath.
@68Camaro RS/SS 24/7 180 :P
Ive got a better challenge than ^^^ ...someone try to string a paragraph together that makes you sound like more of a tool than 68camaro.
I will get a lawyer to draw you up a nice picture of a giraffe, or another animal of your choice, as a reward.
You may be replacing the master cylinder in the near future. Often times when bleeding the brakes by pressing the pedal all the way to the floor, you are pushing the master cylinder piston pass a area it has never been that often has a residue buildup which causes damage to the cup resulting in a internal leak. Yes I was trained at the hydraulic brake school in New Brunswick New Jersey.
Very educational Andrew, im 79 now and have a basic knowledge of how things work, but i learned something here, thankyou.
I guess you're self taught, and for someone who is self taught, you have a lot of knowledge. Btw, i have subscribed to your channel,
should have done so a long time ago. Bob, NZ.
I’ve been doing my own brakes for many years without the luxury of a lift,which certainly would have made it easier. My 2003 Dodge Dakota seemed to eat front rotors. They were certainly easier to change than your Montero! Another great video. Thanks Andrew! Happy New Year!
Those lifts are surprisingly affordable.
Yes I’ve learned that from you. It’s a height issue in my pole barn. I built it with high ceilings but unfortunately not enough for a lift. Could build smaller shed like yours on the side but at 64 years old.....
Crazy amount of work to get a Rotor off !!
That's what I was thinking it seems unnecessary. The caliper and tire should suffice in holding the rotor in place. That's why it takes me less then a half hour a side to change pads rotor and caliper on my f-350
SmarT Odd yeah, a Jeep would have been WAY easier!
You should have replaced your flex brake line going to your caliper, over time they swell up inside and it won't release all the way......ask me how I know I replaced the caliper 3 times before It worked
I had 1989 Mitsu Montero Sport 4WD and did my own maint & repairs including brakes and watching this took me back. I kept it for about 14 yrs and I had to change the brake master cylinder only once. Great videos dude.
I like this guy, so down to earth and humble, plus great knowledge...
Wow! That’s a ‘labor of love’ to change a rotor on on that beast!
true but I bet if you check with Andrew there the original ones and the cars got lots of kms on it.
16 years on original brakes in NY? I doubt it, they've probably been changed out a few times already
Yeah, 16 years those brakes would be dust in NY.
Happy new year from Spain
Like you I had a tire that was a little hard to remove, long story shortened...driving truck on gravel road, flat front tire, jack up to remove lug nuts, no hubcap so threads are bad, each nut 5 minutes to remove ( no joke ) went to remove rim, would not break free, pound on with small sledge hammer , try many times, will not break free, let truck back down and start driving , still no go, stop and check to see if forgot a nut, no nuts on rim, start driving again turning wheel back and forth now digging up road, finally it breaks free, now truck is on the ground and cant get jack under it , use tire iron to dig under frame to get jack under, jack truck up, now truck to low to get tire on because jack is in hole, have to dig hole in road so I can get tire on , success, ( well used road so very well packed, started around 12am ended after 4am , started raining 1/2 way threw ) 100% true story, was 30+ years ago, I did fill in holes before I left
Yeah, I have seen them get really stuck too. I put a little grease on the mountain surface to prevent that from happening.
I love that hand impact tool you used on the passenger side. I've got one that was made probably 40 years ago by Craftsman, it's not something you need everyday but when you need it, you really need it.
Your calipers are hanging up because you aren’t servicing them Andrew.
The bolts that hold the calipers to the brackets go into slide pins. You need to remove them and clean and grease them usually twice a year or when you press the brakes they squeeze but won’t slide back out.
Most of the time there is no need to replace your caliper.
As for brakes. I will stick with the type that don’t have me removing 10 bolts just to separate the rotors from all the other parts.
I guess you remembered to reinstall the hub cap retainer wire before you finished the job. You didn’t have them on either side when you were about to put the tires on.
Good morning Andrew and Happy New Year
So glad to see you protecting the most important tool in the shed, stay safe my friend 🤓
Was glad to see the psychedelic spud ratchet make a special guest star appearance! Love that thing, but go easy on the hammer function. Good vid Andrew 🤜🤛
I'm very glad that someone like you is in the world. You have saved my faith in humanity.
That is good to hear
The one problem with being a one man operation and a DIY mechanic is when you are doing your own repairs you are not making any money with your business. Thats OK if your billing at $100 an hr and a mechanic costs $100 but if you bill at $200 an hr your DIY work is costing you $200. I used to do everything myself until it started costing me money. Not taking anything away from your work ethic but sometimes it costs you money. BTW nice job on the brakes
RD certainly valid comments about the opportunity costs of DIY. However if his seasonal business slows in winter his cost of DIY will be less. With a UA-cam channel Andrew has the chance to make money based on views as well sponsorships etc. For example if Andrew had an Amazon link to the impact screwdriver I might have already placed an order paying him a commission. 😀
I'd rather do it myself than end up with a dry transmission after paying for an oil change.
I too am self employed & like to work on my own equipment, house, property & etc. I do this because I want to save money & because I know how to fix/repair/build the item needing done. Plus, I want the feeling that I did it & it's most likely done right. As far as saving money not paying others to do this...I feel that I can do these projects on my own time after other paying projects are done for the day or weekends. A lot of homeowners don't want someone/contractor at their home on weekends working, they're wanting a quiet weekend to themselves. Most people only believe in a 5 day/40 hour work week, while others believe in a 7 day/80 hour work week. However, there is no right or wrong answer...as long as we're all happy.
It also depends on your time. I am a self employed contractor, but I cannot, or don't want to, be at someone's house or business at all hours. There is ALWAYS down time and sometimes using that time to DIY is helpful. And if I have the time, and can save several hundred dollars, why not?
Certainly applicable in some instances.
However, if his overhead is low, and he isn't working 70-80hrs a week just to meet expenses, this type maintenance could easily be cost effective.
He seems quite opportunistic and taking jobs, but he could clearly be in a position to manage his time...taking jobs needed/wanted, staying ahead in capital (to buy more toys/equipnment) and enjoying work on his property and equipment. That seems to be a big part of him...same here with me:)
17:15 "thats how you do it" hahaha hell yeah brother
I came here for just this comment!
I bet he read that in the manual. 👍
@@josephking6515 right behind the page about fixing the door alignments with an hydraulic jack 😎
Andrew...you take “shade tree” mechanics to a whole other level!
That's an insult to shade-tree mechanics! LOL
Your road and countrysidelooks like my road. I live out in the country in the foothills of the Appalachian Mts. I wish you lived closer to my place. I could learn a lot from you.
I totally agree to change both sides. You broke your own rule though. If it isn’t broke don’t fix it. Keep the great videos coming! You do great work!
And that's how you do it LMFAOOOO. I love this guy
Thanks Andrey that you please us, the subscribers with new parts of the work and life. It is pleasant to see people who know how to do and can do work as the hands. Do not take offense, but small remarks: the disk heated up from the fact that that the hydraulic cylinder was oxidized and did not remove a brake shoe (it is possible to clean and grease with copper lubricant); development in a brake disk can be pierced on the lathe (it can long work, 80000-100000mil). I wait with impatience for your new videos, good luck and luck to you, and pretty Miss. Hi from Russia, Rostov-on to Don.
I've found gravity bleeding to be pretty effective. Messing with the pedal can easily add more smaller air bubbles to the system if done wrong making the process take much longer. Gravity bleeding you can crack a beer, do it by yourself, and relax. Since I found your channel I've been rounding out my Craftsman C3 collection. Picked up the impact driver which you seem to use on every job and this thing's great. Been doing all kinds of stuff. Your reaction when your employee drained your transmission fluid was hilarious. Have a great year man.
Usually no need to change the calipers. They can easily be refurbished and lubed properly, they will last.
Considering you can get quality new ones cheap, it's generally not worth it to refurbish them. And only reason to really replace them is if they are rusted heavily or are beginning to stick and wear pads unevenly.
@@enriqueortiz5440 Last time i checked they were about 100$. A few minutes spent cleaning it up and putting in fresh grease is almost free. The slide pins is usually the problem and can be replaced dirt cheap if needed together with new rubber seals.
@@handlebullshit i bought news ones for my truck they were $20 a piece the core charge was $25 a piece. i seriously got payed for them
Probally very true. I work building new ones. Bunny ball ,new O ring. Its done
Yes unless there is pitting of the bore or piston.
That guy helping you would drive me nuts. Haha
Love the videos.
Andrew - Thanks for posting this. I know it takes a lot of extra work to video while you are trying to get a job done. Super grateful that you took the time to do this. This has been super helpful to me with getting my head around pulling the rotors on my Delica. Thx.
Hey Andrew, old friend ! ! ! first of all ... best wishes to YOU and your family! Hope u-all have a happy, healthy and prosperous 2019 !!!
i started to laugh when u mentioned bout employees who aren't as 'smart' as they tell u they are ..... saying this shortly after dealing with "help" who didn't have a clue how to bleed brakes! I'm sure u appreciated this friends help cuz u really needed him in this situation and he did what needed to be done. He was a good friend to have!!!!
As far as 'employees' go ... God knows how many of them "knowledgeable, experienced" hiree's i dealt with during my years in business .... hiring them .. only to let them go after just a week or two, since they wouldn't agree to a cut in pay. Wish i had a buck for each one of them . LOL
if I did, I'd be retired in the Philippines now, chasing younger women instead of stuck here on the east coast, watchin the sky for snow! LOL {:
Back when I made the mistake of owning a Ford I replaced four calipers on the same wheel and then Ford issued a technical service bulletin recalling the hoses between the caliber in the frame because internally they were collapsing and not releasing pressure ever since then I’ve owned Nissan products and I’ve never look back you’re definitely right about the Japanese vehicles
Also still laughing about the red oil lol
I've had that happen multiple times on my Chevy trucks but no recall or bulletin was ever put out.
I owned a 2008 Nissan Altima that I bought new and it went through OEM, dealer bought brakes like crazy, had engine electrical issues, and the transmission shit the bed at 80K miles. I had a 2002 Camry I bought used with only 34K miles on it and the transmission cracked almost in half before hitting 50K miles. My latest blunder was a 2013 Subaru Outback. After the warranty was up I replaced both front wheel bearings, replaced brakes(third set in 112K miles) replaced the transmission, and now it's off the road because it's burning a quart of oil about every 250 miles. Over the years of I've owned and got rid of many vehicles but one thing is for certain, my two Ford Trucks('78 Bronco and '79 F350) that I bought in the early 80's are still chugging along reliably. They both have original drivetrains and both go for much longer intervals before any repairs are needed in comparison to any foreign vehicle I've ever owned.
If it was amarican. You wouldn't have to take that hub off to take the rotors. Off. Lol
Andrew you are so knowledgeable in so many areas very impressive, and yes it’s better to do it yourself to save money and peace of mind.
That's quite a compelling story about the fluid changes your man was doing!
I'll stick with my GM. That's a lot of work just to do brakes. Good video tho Andrew
Oh, btw - When are your "That's Fixed" T-Shirts coming out?
Just a recommendation, you should always take the slides out of new calipers and re-grease them. They're only applied enough for shipping purposes and to sit on a shelf for awhile. Also the rotors are coated with an oil base in order to prevent the bare metal from rusting while sitting on the shelf at parts stores.
Impact screwdrivers. They really work when used properly as Andrew showed in the video.
Acetone mixed with ATF makes the best penetrating oil, even better than Kroil............
Debatable, check out projects farms video about that topic
MegaBate56>>>I agree 100%, only way to go!
@@steverone7623 Right you are: ua-cam.com/video/xUEob2oAKVs/v-deo.html & ua-cam.com/video/st8dkGzJWtg/v-deo.html
use copper pasta so it will loos better nexst time;-)
copper pasta is not good on heat, so nono on breakes iv learned.
I prefer wholemeal pasta over copper as it to will make you go to the loo faster next time.
Andrew, you are spot on about Japanese vehicles and new parts. I have an old Tundra with many miles. Once an original caliper or bearing wear out it seems I am more likely to replace the newer part again before another original wears out.
"When the student is ready, the teacher will appear!" Andrew, you can be that teacher however, you must find the right person who already has mechanical skills and right attitude and then you mold and teach him how you like things done. It is a transition most of us, (whom run a business) must make as we get older so, don't fear the process. Usually it is better if that person is not a friend of many years. Happy new Year Andrew and keep up the awesome videos
you forgot to grease the wheel bearings
He did grease them?...
Why am I up
Because Andrew posted!
@@cathyblasco4497 Beat me too it lol
I almost cried when you didnt clean the spindle of the rust and replaced the old grease with new but you did okay. Happy New Year, Andrew.
A friend of mine who is a "Expert Technician" at a Toyota dealer checks wheel bearings similar to the way you do it, except if he can, he will grab the strut and spin the wheel, feeling for any roughness in the bearings, since the noise is transmitted through the front end. Good video though... and Happy New Year! Watching your videos with you driving around makes me want to get the hell out of Florida!
The left caliper had a big L on it . Eric O does a better brake job at south main auto.
Ernie Laurent Eric O is a shop owner, and a professional mechanic. Andrew is not. I'm sure Andrew does a better job at operating heavy equipment.
Thanks for pointing that out tho. Very nice of you to do so!! When Eric does a video on excavating for his septic service, I hope that you will tell him that Andrew does a better job of it!
LOL when you used the other wheel and tire to smack the other wheel and tire off. Thanks for the awesome video as always andrew!
Also when you have a bad caliper, the vehicle will usually pull to the bad side while you're going down the road. Your former "employee" must've thought he found the life blood of your vehicle when changing the "oil". Nice work Andrew.
I forgot to compliment you on a different video where you were fixing the old chainsaw and you used a nail to make a new part for the spring. That was pretty awesome. Great videos. Edit - as I continue to watch this video you failed to back the bearings with grease using your hand and did not torque the retaining nut. Spraying all the rusting surface metal you can reach with something like wd 40 would not have hurt. This criticizing others is fun, thank you.
First I'd like to say that I am a fan, I think I've seen most of your videos. I have been an Auto & Diesel mechanic since 1980 and ASE Certified since 1990.
I noticed that you didn't clean and repack the bearings. Not cleaning the bearings (inner and outer) will cause premature failure due to friction and heat. I also noticed that you didn’t lubricate the backs of the pads (to ensure proper brake pad seating and prevent squealing). You also didn’t lubricate the slides so that the caliper can adjust properly. In fact you didn’t check the slides at all on the old bracket and didn’t lubricate the slides on the new bracket. While you might have been right, that the caliper was hung up, but without checking the slides, you’ll never know. In my experience the slides are what usually hang up due to rust, not the caliper (which only hangs up due to contaminated brake fluid). Next time pick up a bottle of anti-seize (Silver) and lubricate all the moving parts; your brake pads will last a lot longer, at lower operating temperatures and with less issues overall.
I like to use window cleaner on new discs to clean them, just watch for lint... I also use silicon paste on anything that moves. It's also not a bad idea to put some kind of grease on the edges of the pistons in the caliper. I also check the pins, sometimes they don't grease them good and I also like to purge all the air out of the little rubber boots. You did a good install and I'm sure a lot of people will learn from this. Now all you need is some metric flare nut wrenches and some better impact sockets and you'll be Mr. Brake change master! Happy New Year.
Great Video ! replaced my brakes on my 2002 Montero ! I was lost !
Always enjoy your videos and working principles. I keep a 3 ft breaking bar handy and put it over the handle and it really makes breaking those tight nut easier to remove. Keep up the good attitude.
Andrew is the type of guy that I would work for... for free. The experience and knowledge is well worth the pay itself...
Whenever doing a brake job for a rust belt car You have to clean out the groves that the stainless hardware go in with a file. Put a nice coat of brake grease in them and put new hardware in. Also grease the slide pins. I do this even on brand new calipers. The pins never have enough grease. Also grease the caliper piston and the opposite side the parts that touch the pad. Doing this on every brake job helps hold back the rust that forms and siezes the pads in caliper bracket.
The impact driver is so handy even sometimes as a better to hold on to Screw driver.
I love all your content, I just discovered it this past week. I've been binge watching! Keep up the great work man, you've truly inspired me to try to fix things I wouldn't have in the past!
That orange camo ratchet thing cracks me up. I'm sure it's a handy tool but I laughed when I saw them in Tractor Supply. Not sure I could use one with a straight face.
Keep up the good work!
I only change my brake calipers when they have problems but when I do I always change the hoses to it's cheap insurance and make sure you lube your pens with anti seize should help you with the life of your calipers. I noticed JC Smith puts it on the The hub faces to prevent the rims from sticking never had that problem or need to try it but it could be something that helps you.
Good work. Love Monteros.
I usually clean the rust, put some grease and some black rust converter paint.
And yeap i do my oil changes too even in winter.. without a garage with 30 F
I had a great experience at Canadian Tire rounding my oil plug when the use an impact gun to put the plug..
Andrew, love your work and I think you do awesome road repairs, landscaping, and all around a great contractor. You do things I wouldn't come close to doing. But as a professional automotive tech it can be hard watching do work on cars/trucks. I give you credit that you definitely know and can do more than most. You are determined that's for sure. Just some things I have to grit my teeth. Don't take it wrong I am not trying to criticize you at all. I am just a perfectionist in my trade as I am sure you are in yours. Take care and since I found your channel I can't get enough.
You see the video of me installing that pickup truck radio? That was some professional work right there.
@@AndrewCamarata Not yet. I only found your awesome channel a couple weeks ago. I am so far behind and very interested and intrigued with your work ethics and quality. You are well versed in many areas. My dogs are suffering from lack of attention now...lol. I will have to search for that video.