A look Inside the Ford Blend Door Motor and how to fix the temperature control
Вставка
- Опубліковано 15 жов 2024
- Can't seem to get the temperature control to work on your Ford Explorer or Ranger? No heat? No cold? One of the most common reasons for this is the failure of the blend door motor / module - Mark shows you the symptoms, the part, why it fails and what it costs.
Nice video, succinctly done, well presented.
I just got done doing mine- cost $36 (Dorman 604-202) and 3-4 hours on a 2004 Ranger. I root caused the failure to mangled brushes in the DC motor. It would only spin in 1 direction during testing. During installation, starting the 8mm screw in back is a royal pain! I reinstalled it by wrapping dental floss around it for a lanyard and putting a rubber cap plug thingy on the head for grip to get started. The 1/4" socket barely fit, but worked. Now my heater blows hot. This would have drained my wallet hundreds, so I take on almost all my own repair projects. No more flying blind- the internet and YT videos are invaluable for a DIY'er like me. Cheers!
I found the problem on mine to be the 8 pin computer chip on the pcb. Noticed very subtle discolouration on the back of the board and the solder joints had turned a dull grey a sign of excessive heat. The motor bench tested fine. But the, what I assume is the motor controller was burned out. Installed a whole new blend door actuator unit. Everything's working good now.
Hey! I'm a 48 year-old black woman and I fixed it myself! It wasn't really hard to unhook, except for taking out the last screw. It was a beast trying to get the last two screws back on, they both kept falling down between the carpet and console and are now lost forever! Lol!!
I rehooked the electrical connector, turned on the ride and now NO MORE KNOCKING! Now, it still blows cold, but I didn't allow it to run for 15 minutes because I was getting cold, it was getting dark and I technically was still getting over the flu.
I'll let you know how it turns out later. LATER!
Well done Marcia!! Cheers!
@@carquestions
Now, I've got HEEEEEEEEEEEATTTTT!
YAHOO!
If on a really tight budget and if it's fairly accessible, repairing these is possible. Pretty common motor size of 24x31mm w/2mm shaft. And if the larger gear is only partially stripped you can align the bad tooth with the pinion gear with the output shaft in the middle position. This way it will still contact the good teeth when it reaches the stops. Also, it car has manual dial controls best not to set temps at max positions, then your not stressing the gears and blend door in the first place.
Sorry for the late reply Sereno - thanks for the info - Cheers from Canada!
(Dorman 604-206) This is a simple manual temp control I replaced. Plastic gear teeth disintegrated on the actuator module I learned about during the autopsy. $25 DIY repair. One mount screw I accessed via (removed) glove box. The other screws (including the metal guard) accessed from below the dash. You will need to pull off some gymnastic moves to do it. Be ready to contort your body a bit to reach up in there. Don't give up. You can do it. The pro mechanics will probably go the long route and charge $100 / hour. As your back is healing you can be proud you saved a butt load of money $$$$$ and did it yourself. Make it easier on yourself and wear a good quality headlamp.
Thanks for the info FC - Cheers from Canada!
Just removed mine and opened it up. When I turn the temperature control knob to hot , the mechanism moves about half way and then stops. The motor keeps alternating between clockwise and counterclockwise, thus the blend door does not get opened fully.
The job sucks but is not as difficult as some people say.
Good luck !
Good on you Troy - Cheers from Canada!
How many times did he pick that part up
I am replacing this currently in my 2008 ranger... Hard to get at, but got it out... nightmare to get back in. Part was about $60 CDN aftermarket. It is a do able job for the at home person with the right tools, but be ready to spend a good part of the day screw around with it. I would be interested to find out what the ford repair book has for the repair time, took me hours.
Ford dealers would charge at least 3 hours in most cases
8mm offset box wrench and 1/2 hour (if you have small hands!) (2007 Ranger)
I have multiple symptoms on my 2007 Ranger. AC works, but takes forever to cool down. Fan operates, but seems weak to me. When it is cool, or even cold outside, the truck blows hot (heated) air when vent is selected, making use of vent only useless. I don't hear clicking at the blend actuator. What do you suggest?
Hi tx for a good video!
I just have a question, in my Ford transit MK7 (-11) the problem is that when i need AC on i will get cold nice air from the vents on the sides, but on my feet and in the two middle vents on the dash it blows warm air at the same time! Can it be the blend door motor that causes that problem?
Yep - that's what I would check out
Great video. Much appreciated. I noticed this morning that my 2012 Ford Fusion would only blow hot air. This was with AC both on and off. Could this be my problem? I'm thinking it's either this or the control module.
It certainly could be - also AC could have a leak -- check to see if AC is turning when on Jerome
If you own a 99-03 F-150 and you are pretty sure this is the problem, this component is actually on the bottom of the blend door. So DO NOT tear apart your dash like I did. Pop the black plastic off, that is below the radio/temp controls near the floor. Take the 1 plastic pin from the passenger side and it's right behind there. I banged on it a couple times with a screwdriver and it now blows COLD A/C again ! Good luck all
Could new wire be soldered into the motor to replace the faulty “brushes” to allow the component to work again? is it special wire?
not recommended - but could be used for temporary use - Cheers from Canada!
Awesome vid. I have a Crown Victoria PI 2010 and this just happened to me in TX. I am going to bite the bullet and take it up to Meineke here in town to get an estimate for the fix. Its too hot to go without it so I will probably pay to get it done. I will update this comment with what it cost in 2024 to get this done for you. Update: Ow...$1010.34 $165.45 for the part and $831.24 for labor
Thanks much appreciated - hope they don't find a leak - Cheers from Canada!
Fix one problem, break another. A familiar tune for some manufacturers.
Fix or Repair Daily
Found on Road Dead
I just replaced mine yesterday on our 98 Lincoln Navigator but the new actuator stays clicking.. any ideas? Does the system need to be reset?
Not sure Dro - sounds like some of the attaching mechanism may be binding up stopping it - let me know what you find - Cheers from Canada!
I have a 2002 mercury sable wagon and the blend door was a recall but the first owner didn't fix it so now I am stuck, they said the dash has to be removed is that a lie cause it didn't look like you had too?
Ronnie - just checked - the car has four recalls but not the blend door - may have been an extended warranty but that's totally different. The vehicle in my video is not a Sable so ya it may be necessary to remove the dash - don't know for sure
My mom's 2009 Ranger seems to run the A/C (compressor) no matter where the temp setting is on, now it comes on less than a min. then turns off then later turns on again for less than a min. then turns off again. Now this happens even when the heat is on all the way. I think the A/C Heater Blend Door Actuator is not working, I'm going to check it out today, do you think the broken actuator can have anything do with the compressor turning on or does it do that no mater what. And do you think it would be a reasonable idea to unplug the compressor or something like that during the winter, to save on the gas. :) That is to say if it is normal for the compressor to turn on a bit no mater what, (as long as the the system is turned on of course). Thanks
On most cars and trucks if you have it set to defrost it comes on no matter if the heat is on full hot and on cars with automatic control it is almost always going on and off
I changed this on my Ford but now the rear heater comes out cold there is another one of this in the back?
Very helpful and educational.
I changed mine now only the heat works. I’m not sure if the blend door is moving freely I don’t try to turn it with the new one but seems stiff
I'd double check to see if it's in right - and test it out of the heater box - Cheers!
Will this cause u not to have much air flow out the vent or the floor??
yes it could
Hmm I wonder if lubricating the contact surfaces of the blend door with a non-toxic solution could reduce friction, thus reduce stress on this system...
Love the idea - try it and let me know what happens
@@carquestions That will have to wait until I actually experience the problem.
I had a bitch of a time removing the actuator, any suggestion on properly reinstalling the new one? I don't know the position of the blend door, what position should the cool/heat setting be set at. Don't want to strip the gears on the new unit. Thanks
hook up electrical and park the system by turning it off then match it up
I have a 207 b2300. AC does not work . Only hot air blows. Unless the max a/c is turned on. Then I have cold air. Ideas?? Thanks!
Does this also, help with my situation. I can't turn the AC/Heater up or down?
Greetings, my question is if the actuator is stuck in hot, does the compressor could be on? I have a Mercury Sable 2005 that the compressor clutch is not engage, and is stuck in the defrost mode. By the way it has freon. Help please!
Do the air blend door actuator and AC Heat actuator use the same part number? I ask because I just replaced my blend door actuator and it doesn't work. Tried with two different new units. Checked the fuse which was good. The old actuator was clicking so I pulled it out while I was waiting for the new part to come in. I'm wondering be if I didn't get the AC Heat actuator by mistake? It acts like it's not getting power. Tested it installed and not installed, just plugged in. Also checked the blend door and moved freely. Any thoughts??
If you have power at the connector when the switch is in the correct position and the new part does nothing - it is either the wrong part or is defective - case closed
i have a 09 ranger i notice if you leave it full hot or full cold the blend sticks try to set the hot/cold setting to the middle when you leave for the night and it solve my problems because i took all that crap apart and i put my finger in the slot were the module goes and turn it and it pop like it was stuck
looks like you're on to something
Is this the part that makes the thump noise when you turn the temperature knob? We have a 1999 F150 with no heat. It makes the noise of blend door, but even with a new heater core still no heat. ( turns out if you unhook the battery then hook it back up the heater works)
Feel the heater box area with fan on high for 15 minutes - if the box is warm but you get no heat coming out then ya check out the blend door motor
I bought a new blend door. It will only move the door several inches. Possible problems?
@@mikecustenborder3991 I don't know anything about cars but I watched a video and they were checking all the lines for a vacuum leak. He used a smoke unit of some kind and where it leaked the smoke would come out. If it's not getting enough vacuum pressure, it can't move the door all the way. ( I was watching the video where they worked on the control knobs to the heating and air conditioning, there was a blend door control module up underneath the dash that controlled the pressure to the blend door - it can go bad.) I remember years ago I think you take starter fluid or something and with your engine running you spray it all over the engine and when it reaches the vacuum leak the car will speed up - maybe do it at a car wash and spray it off after you're done.
Good explanation.
2009 ranger, all hot air except max ac setting. Paid $57 at my local dealer for entire actuator . Saw online i could have ordered it from a CT dealer for 31% off that. Why just order the motor component. Anyway the new actuator works
Good info - thanks
Have this problem right now. Have owned 5 Fords and this is the last one! JUNK!!!
It's always best to vote with your dollars - for sure
thanks so much, this is the better video i wash about this problem
Anytime Jamie - Cheers from Canada!
my accuator is working, but I still am not getting heat. What could be the problem. Anti-freeze is fine.
Change the thermostat.
Yep mines quit to fixing to take the acuator out and check it. No heat
Good video thanks. This must be the culprit in my 95 T-Bird...
inside the heater box where the blend door is (full hot)it greats a suction that keeps the blend door sealed for heat i had a really hard time moving the blend door by hand no wander the actuator burns out (solution put the selector (dial on the right) on off wow no more suction the door moved real easy)
you ever wonder why your electric window wont roll down but you hear the motor? its those same plastic gears that are broken thats causing it to not move.
Thanks Ford for the struggle
Ford #1 don’t buy a garbage ram like I did... made in Mexico junk
Great info...... thanks
Anytime dean - cheers!
Aren’t we all fortunate ford had a better idea
I am sure that all manufacturers have he same basic idea: Design the vehicle such that it will go together smoothly and quickly, on the assembly line. Do not consider what the repairs will take, labor-wise.
Which is why I sincerely hope that there is a special place in hell where mechanics will supervise the designers while the designers have to make the repairs.
While informative, many youtubers apparently ignore viewing their own videos. Specifically when attempting to show the crucial part. In this case, the dc motor case 'arms' or brushes (using correct terminology) that power the motor. Completely out of focus no matter how much you attempted to get the lens to autofocus. Discouraging at the least.
this guy is a hand model yes he did her nails yes and he got a watch looklin good my man lookin gooodie
Thanks for outing me
In my 97 f-150 lariat ain’t making any noise at all. Nothing.
How is that a 700 dollar problem? I just saw you fix it and it took 10 minutes. The dealer is ripping everybody off and it's gouging and price fixing amongst other crimes.
Welcome to capitalism, it mostly sucks these days and kepts the poor, well poor.
@@troybear11 The dealership takes the dash apart, time is money.
I replaced my actuator with an aftermarket unit off Ebay. Lasted only 3 months. Broken again.
Wow that sucks. Mine just went
They could have made those internal parts out of aluminum or a light weight alloy. that motor must have too much torque at times for that plastic. I have seen some of those gears totally stripped with no teeth left.
Mine is hot 96 Thunderbird
This is sad to hear. I had a 1999 F150 with blend-door issues of another type, and now this. No, I don't trust GM any better, but Ford just keeps letting their buyers down, and doesn't seem to care about their name anymore.
My policy - if a product lets you down - buy the competition - with vehicles there is lots to pick from
with vehicles, they all have some inherited problems, you would be trading one issue for something else. Everything now a days is designed to fail.
carquestions for our family's needs, my only 2 choices are Expedition EL or Suburban... Wish toyota made an extended length Sequoia!
My explore has push buttons .no fan blower
No fan blower?
Too bad.
Amazon $24.00
Good to know - thanks Jean!
Typical Ford design....right after their leaky intake manifolds, peeling white paint, steering shafts, etc...
2004 Ford expedition. Mine blows cold in front and hot air in the back. I changed the top actuator do you think this one could be making it blow hot in the back