1997 f150 no heat problem. I so appreciate you taking the time to show the screw locations on the floor box. You saved me all kinds of time . I tested the actuator and it was working then failed to work when I turned the cool heat knob then worked again. I replaced the actuator with a factory ford part. I did not have to pull the floor box out I just moved it away enough to get the screws out of the actuator. Tested it and replaced it. Worked beautifully . Thanks you so much.
Outstanding - after watching hours of videos with people recommending tearing the truck apart you show how do replace the motor in about an hour. Don't comment on many videos but this saved me many many hours had I followed other videos. Many thanks.
Needed a refresher on floor duct r&r to replace actuator. Thanks for posting. My truck is a 98, RCM is located behind RH kick panel. Everything else the same.👍
Excellent how-to video. I've been dreading doing this for YEARS on my 97 Expedition (Same dashboard, but has center console blower stuff). Now I got no excuse to put off an EATC conversion any longer... :D Well done sir
did you end up doing the EATC conversion? Im pretty sure it requires a lot more than just swapping one of these, as there is a different wiring harness, thermometers, a sunlight detector, etc.
@@themechanick9071 Yes I did last summer. Replacing the Blend Door Actuator is the most labor-intensive part of it, but the rest was pretty easy as it's almost a drop-in installation. I skipped the sun light sensor because it just tells it to "go normally" or "hurry up and cool it down". Grounding the sun sensor pin puts it in "hurry up" mode. Details and pictures here: www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1632816-eatc-climate-control-retrofit-for-97-02-a.html
@@tsherwoodrzero awesome, thanks a lot. 16 year old me really wanted to do this to my truck, but now that I have a job its time for a bronco. big bertha will have to stay old-school for now
Thank you, thank you. Never could find info I needed to even to know where start looking, then this popped up. When it got cold just wore a jacket (maybe gloves 3 or 4 days out of the year)
Before replacing the actuator, beware that a common problem is a cracked cold/hot control knob on the dash. the knob can be pulled straight off with pliers, also using tape on the knob to prevent scratching. The round molded piece on the back of the knob, which fits over the stem of the control, it what breaks.
Jim Niblack Man, you are a lifesaver Just got a quote from a guy that said he would replace the heater core for $400 labor and I buy the part Another guy said no it's a thermostat and will flush that heater core $250 I just saw your post I pulled out my needle nose turn that sucker over and it's roasting me lol I can't thank you enough Just got out to Denver and I was dreading this no heat
at 2:56, what does that vacuum actuator do? I removed a couple screw to get it out of the way and there is a hook that I am not sure how to re-attach and what it is not doing while it is detached. Any help?
Check the ac knob first. You can pull it off with your hands a lot of the time. They don’t make proper contact a lot of the time. Just pocket another ac knob from a junkyard
What does it mean if the knob is practically impossible to move? My blower motor will not come on when you turn it up regardless of the knob being set for heat or ac if you directly wire the blower motor it comes straight on so I know the motor is good but that's about all I know
Turns out it was not bad, after I removed the actuator and "loosened up" the blend door it worked fine. Now with the hole cut in the bottom, I can see if the door is working without taking the whole thing apart.
excellent video, the only thing i would do differently is leave the air vent off because it's going to blow on your feet regardless if that vent is on there or not.
First, check ur coolant level..low coolant = no heat. Second, check both heater hoses coming in thru the firewall they should both feel the same amount of warm to the touch. One hotter than the other means a blocked heater core ( take the hoses off and flush with water hose) or bad water control valve (if u have one it will be on one of the hoses before it enters the firewall) U will usually hear a clicking under the dash or a thump as the door moves then falls back into a closed position.
1997 f150 no heat problem. I so appreciate you taking the time to show the screw locations on the floor box. You saved me all kinds of time . I tested the actuator and it was working then failed to work when I turned the cool heat knob then worked again. I replaced the actuator with a factory ford part. I did not have to pull the floor box out I just moved it away enough to get the screws out of the actuator. Tested it and replaced it. Worked beautifully . Thanks you so much.
Thanks so much for detail disassembly procedure i saw alot of video where duct was cut away ...your steps works like a charm❤
👍
Outstanding - after watching hours of videos with people recommending tearing the truck apart you show how do replace the motor in about an hour. Don't comment on many videos but this saved me many many hours had I followed other videos. Many thanks.
Your video is the only one that showed where all the screws go. Thanks
Needed a refresher on floor duct r&r to replace actuator. Thanks for posting. My truck is a 98, RCM is located behind RH kick panel. Everything else the same.👍
excellent, worked out great. that back screw for the plenum was the worst. dont worry about that round thing on the left. thanks again!
Excellent how-to video. I've been dreading doing this for YEARS on my 97 Expedition (Same dashboard, but has center console blower stuff). Now I got no excuse to put off an EATC conversion any longer... :D
Well done sir
did you end up doing the EATC conversion? Im pretty sure it requires a lot more than just swapping one of these, as there is a different wiring harness, thermometers, a sunlight detector, etc.
@@themechanick9071 Yes I did last summer. Replacing the Blend Door Actuator is the most labor-intensive part of it, but the rest was pretty easy as it's almost a drop-in installation. I skipped the sun light sensor because it just tells it to "go normally" or "hurry up and cool it down". Grounding the sun sensor pin puts it in "hurry up" mode.
Details and pictures here: www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1632816-eatc-climate-control-retrofit-for-97-02-a.html
@@tsherwoodrzero awesome, thanks a lot. 16 year old me really wanted to do this to my truck, but now that I have a job its time for a bronco. big bertha will have to stay old-school for now
Thank you, thank you.
Never could find info I needed to even to know where start looking, then this popped up. When it got cold just wore a jacket (maybe gloves 3 or 4 days out of the year)
Before replacing the actuator, beware that a common problem is a cracked cold/hot control knob on the dash. the knob can be pulled straight off with pliers, also using tape on the knob to prevent scratching. The round molded piece on the back of the knob, which fits over the stem of the control, it what breaks.
You are so right...........I just found this problem on my 99 F 150. Thought I had major problems, but the knob was not engaging the control stem.
Jim Niblack
Man, you are a lifesaver
Just got a quote from a guy that said he would replace the heater core for $400 labor and I buy the part
Another guy said no it's a thermostat and will flush that heater core $250
I just saw your post I pulled out my needle nose turn that sucker over and it's roasting me lol
I can't thank you enough
Just got out to Denver and I was dreading this no heat
Thanks a lot this video showed me mostly everything I needed to know ! Fixed my heat all set to go !
at 2:56, what does that vacuum actuator do? I removed a couple screw to get it out of the way and there is a hook that I am not sure how to re-attach and what it is not doing while it is detached. Any help?
This video is extremely helpful
thanks for this info. I have a 2003 f150. everything just about the same except I have a air duct going under the seats.
Thank you for a great video
You helped me out a lot with this, thank you
Yep, gonna do this! Thanks!!!
Great job, thanks 👍
I did not put the screw that goes to the bottom up. because it is too complicated I could not put it. I also had a hard time removing that screw. 😆
Excelente video , saludos desde Mexico
Check the ac knob first. You can pull it off with your hands a lot of the time. They don’t make proper contact a lot of the time. Just pocket another ac knob from a junkyard
Thanks for your comment.
What does it mean if the knob is practically impossible to move? My blower motor will not come on when you turn it up regardless of the knob being set for heat or ac if you directly wire the blower motor it comes straight on so I know the motor is good but that's about all I know
If the activator is working and door is opening an shutting why wont it heat up
Thank you it helped
Did you use a GoPro to film this? Because it gets up so close very well
Nikon S9600
Nice!!! Your AC or Heater wasn’t working and this made it work?
If it keeps getting stuck, there's a vacuum leak on the firewall side
I have another duct that doesn't allow that to come out of the front and makes this impossible for me
How did you know the part was bad?
Turns out it was not bad, after I removed the actuator and "loosened up" the blend door it worked fine. Now with the hole cut in the bottom, I can see if the door is working without taking the whole thing apart.
ccc design , thanks for the video.
excellent video, the only thing i would do differently is leave the air vent off because it's going to blow on your feet regardless if that vent is on there or not.
After fiddle farting with the screw in the back that's what I did, just happy to have heat to the defroster
What's the difference between this component and the component that makes the thump when you turn the temperature knob?
The actuator is moving the blend door which you maybe able hear when it moves to the open or closed position
Thx so much
Mine blows but doesn't get hot. Is this the problem?
First, check ur coolant level..low coolant = no heat. Second, check both heater hoses coming in thru the firewall they should both feel the same amount of warm to the touch. One hotter than the other means a blocked heater core ( take the hoses off and flush with water hose) or bad water control valve (if u have one it will be on one of the hoses before it enters the firewall) U will usually hear a clicking under the dash or a thump as the door moves then falls back into a closed position.
Looks like a pain in the ass
This guy obviously knows what he is doing but he is NOT a good instructor
Thanks for th video
I found the video extremely helpful
Just replay until you get it. I found it helpful by getting under there myself and looking then replay until I got it. 😎
His instruction made perfect sense to me. You might be a slow learner. It's nothing to be ashamed of
@@mattkenney2637 👍