In a word, no... While the Multiplus II IS rated for 3000Va, the formula is Va x .80 to get power(W), so a single Multiplus II rated for 3000Va is only capable of yielding 2400W... Now, can you push the Multiplus II into delivering more than it's technically capable of, sure, just like you can O/C a cpu, that is until you burn it up... I run 2 Multiplus II 120x2 and can run my A/C, microwave AND the electric water heater all at the same time, are maxxed out, nearly, I have essentially 4800W of power to use, and with those 3 running at the same time, I'm using about 4600W... The entire key to off grid with PV setups is managed resources, that includes fresh water and holding tanks...
The problem with the single2,400watt inverter comes when both cycle on their compressors at the same time, and as they do this independently, eventually it'll happen... then even the soft starts won't be enough. As for the discrepincies on your monitor, the 2,700 watts the batteries os the combined ac and dc loads... your inverter was 1,840(ac), and your dc load at that time was 560 watts1849+560=2,400 watts.2700-2400=300. the 300 missing watts are the total losses in the system. About 11%... that's not bad... most of that loss is in the inverter with the remainder in wiring, connections, etc. But yes, 2 AC's kick on at once, maybe once a week the fridge even lines up its start time, and all other regular loads... you need two inverters (well, two of that size, I mean). I too, will be doing dual inverters, but since I will be living full-time, my worry is more about failure at a critical time, so if I blow an inverter, I still have one to maintain crucial systems (food storage, cooking abilities, pet survival, etc.) Same for my mppt's, dc-dc units, etc... anything vital to my survival is doubled, so I can work around any failed equipment until I can get it repaired/replaced. Same goes for your double dc-dc's... one fails, you're not scr*w*d. Sure, if a part fails, I'll have to more carefully manage usage until the problem is remedied, but I won't freeze to death or par boil while I wait for that fix.(I live in a part of Canada with extreme temps both ways. lol).✌🏼🇨🇦 OH, I almost forgot... at around 1900 watts ac there, not sure why your inverter was showing an overload alert???
On the Cerbo GX, you have 4 digital inputs. You can wire an input per AC compressor so it shows on the Cerbo screen that each AC is running. This way you could be alerted that the AC is not working
If you're on the fence about how much solar to add I recommend getting the most that can fit. You'll be happy you did, as power is addictive. The more you have, the more you'll find a use for in the future. The same goes with your batteries. Get the most you have space for and can afford. Pre-built lifepo-4 batteries can be very expensive and take up a lot of space. I built a 560ah 12v battery out of 8, 280ah prismatic cells that fits in the same space as 2 GC-2 lead acid golf cart batteries. The price of raw LiFePo-4 cells has dropped since I built this one. I have since built another 48v battery using 16, 320ah cells for only $1,866 including the BMS.
We have measured and settled on the solar layout. That video will be out soon. We already have three 24v 200ah LiTime batteries, may get one more. We have been running some test to make that finale decision.
@@saltytrips 3, 24v 200ah batteries should be sufficient. This is about the same kwh as our 48v battery, which is more than sufficient for our needs, but then again, we charge it with a 4,400w array. It will run a 12k btu mini-split 24/7 and a 14.5k btu rooftop AC during the day as needed too.
@@SuperSushidog its all contingent on the weather, we’ve been running test and tracking wh , just want the batteries to last the night so we don’t have to run a generator at night, then replenishing batteries during the day with solar and if need be a small generator. We are very happy with our setup thus far, parallel inverter is next then solar.
@@saltytrips Also consider throwing in an extra charge controller that an external array can be connected to once parked, to augment the solar on the roof. A see a lot of people pull out temporary flexible panels after parking. The main issue with batteries is to have enough for approximately 24 hours of operation. In poor weather or when parked in the shade, you only want to have to run the generator once a day for a few hours to charge the batteries up. Silence is golden 🙂
I was playing with running 2 a/c's. I ended up frying my battery disconnect. It was a cheap china disconnect and I changed it out for a blues 300 amp. I will play with it again in the summer and if it does it again I will change the 300 amp disconnect for a 600 battery disconnect. It is also important to check the temps of your wires in certain areas to see what they are reading and maybe a certain connection is hotter than in different areas
If you run appropriate wire size heat is not an issue, if your wires are getting hot then it’s definitely undersized. Same with the rest of the components.
We ran 2 ACs on my 12v system for about an hour before the inverter overheated and kicked off. But my multiplus ii 2x120 is on its side so cooling isn't perfect but any means.
Great video, great information. Can I ask you about your truck. I have the same 2022 F250 XLT 7.3 gas, Really like the truck, love the engine, but I have real concerns with transmission. Are you experiencing any downshift issues. While accelerating up shifts are fine, but when decelerating shifts are hard and jerky. Have you experienced any issues? Thanks in advance!!
How many solar panels do you need to get 2500 watts? And, how does the weight of the solar panels effect your suspension on the trailer? Will you need to upgrade the suspension? Great video as always. Keep those puppies safe for sure.
Gonna depend on how larg the solar panels are. Weight will be roughly 35lbs per 300W. Very approximately. Usually when fitting a space, like a RV roof, to solar, you find panels with dimensions that work well for that space. Panel weight is not usually an issue, but battery weight can become an issue... particularly if one has a lot of batteries and the weight is lopsided on the suspension. Still, LiFePO4 is a lot lighter than lead-acid and even 10 kWh of usable storage is only roughly 160lbs worth of batteries.
My cc 525 bifacials are 70 lbs each.They stand 7.5 feet.Whith my mounting hardware 100 lbs per panel.I’ve been 500 lbs over weight before without panels.So this toy hauler may have to go on a diet lol
My comment got deleted somehow. Sorry if I did it by accident. I saw this issue in Facebook solar group. Here is a comment/answer that might explain the display discrepancies. “The DC power readout on the GX is simply the difference between the watts measured going out to the AC loads and the watts going out of the battery. The extra power you’re seeing with the air conditioner running is the conversion loss from the inverter. With an inductive load like an air conditioner, you can see up to about 10-12% loss with any inverter since the power factor is less than 1 on the load.”
That’s incorrect, your getting this backwards. Battery use is reading correct wattage usage, AC load on GX read out is incorrect by a lot. No matter the power loss through inverting the AC load should reflect a correct AC wattage usage on the GX. Yes there should be a small discrepancy between battery draw which should equal DC and AC load minus 5% efficiency rate. Regardless the AC load should reflect accurate AC usage, two air conditioners running are over 2,600 watts but AC load was only showing 1,800. Inverter efficiency loss would show on battery side as a 5% higher reading than the accurate AC load wattage. Not the other way around and not by almost 30% difference. You said the “extra power your seeing” on the shunt its not “extra” thats actual accurate reading, two air conditioners, frig, and DC load like lights all add up yo about 2,700-2,800 watts which is what the battery shunt is showing. Are you saying you can run a frig and two air conditioners on 1,800 watts? No that preposterous, so the GX is reporting inaccurate AC load not an efficiency loss 🤦♂️
I live in the Bahamas and we have NEVER got to 100 degrees and we are more south but we have same weather as Florida...so...nah brah, maybe 95 to maybe 98 and that's not for the whole summer
🤣 Never said it was 100 all summer 🤦♂️, thanks for watching www.clickorlando.com/weather/2023/08/13/orlando-hits-100-degrees-breaks-record-from-1938/ amp.miamiherald.com/news/local/environment/climate-change/article277743448.html www.foxweather.com/weather-news/florida-swelters-feels-like-temperatures-climb-over-105-on-4th-of-july.amp
In a word, no...
While the Multiplus II IS rated for 3000Va, the formula is Va x .80 to get power(W), so a single Multiplus II rated for 3000Va is only capable of yielding 2400W...
Now, can you push the Multiplus II into delivering more than it's technically capable of, sure, just like you can O/C a cpu, that is until you burn it up...
I run 2 Multiplus II 120x2 and can run my A/C, microwave AND the electric water heater all at the same time, are maxxed out, nearly, I have essentially 4800W of power to use, and with those 3 running at the same time, I'm using about 4600W...
The entire key to off grid with PV setups is managed resources, that includes fresh water and holding tanks...
Thanks for the video recap
The problem with the single2,400watt inverter comes when both cycle on their compressors at the same time, and as they do this independently, eventually it'll happen... then even the soft starts won't be enough.
As for the discrepincies on your monitor, the 2,700 watts the batteries os the combined ac and dc loads... your inverter was 1,840(ac), and your dc load at that time was 560 watts1849+560=2,400 watts.2700-2400=300. the 300 missing watts are the total losses in the system. About 11%... that's not bad... most of that loss is in the inverter with the remainder in wiring, connections, etc.
But yes, 2 AC's kick on at once, maybe once a week the fridge even lines up its start time, and all other regular loads... you need two inverters (well, two of that size, I mean).
I too, will be doing dual inverters, but since I will be living full-time, my worry is more about failure at a critical time, so if I blow an inverter, I still have one to maintain crucial systems (food storage, cooking abilities, pet survival, etc.)
Same for my mppt's, dc-dc units, etc... anything vital to my survival is doubled, so I can work around any failed equipment until I can get it repaired/replaced. Same goes for your double dc-dc's... one fails, you're not scr*w*d.
Sure, if a part fails, I'll have to more carefully manage usage until the problem is remedied, but I won't freeze to death or par boil while I wait for that fix.(I live in a part of Canada with extreme temps both ways. lol).✌🏼🇨🇦
OH, I almost forgot... at around 1900 watts ac there, not sure why your inverter was showing an overload alert???
ua-cam.com/video/-G0W_b_XMtc/v-deo.htmlsi=zIDu6D-tEUSoXBpm
Make sure you wire up your inverter so you can bypass it if needed using a rotary switch
On the Cerbo GX, you have 4 digital inputs. You can wire an input per AC compressor so it shows on the Cerbo screen that each AC is running. This way you could be alerted that the AC is not working
If you're on the fence about how much solar to add I recommend getting the most that can fit. You'll be happy you did, as power is addictive. The more you have, the more you'll find a use for in the future. The same goes with your batteries. Get the most you have space for and can afford. Pre-built lifepo-4 batteries can be very expensive and take up a lot of space. I built a 560ah 12v battery out of 8, 280ah prismatic cells that fits in the same space as 2 GC-2 lead acid golf cart batteries. The price of raw LiFePo-4 cells has dropped since I built this one. I have since built another 48v battery using 16, 320ah cells for only $1,866 including the BMS.
We have measured and settled on the solar layout. That video will be out soon. We already have three 24v 200ah LiTime batteries, may get one more. We have been running some test to make that finale decision.
@@saltytrips 3, 24v 200ah batteries should be sufficient. This is about the same kwh as our 48v battery, which is more than sufficient for our needs, but then again, we charge it with a 4,400w array. It will run a 12k btu mini-split 24/7 and a 14.5k btu rooftop AC during the day as needed too.
@@SuperSushidog its all contingent on the weather, we’ve been running test and tracking wh , just want the batteries to last the night so we don’t have to run a generator at night, then replenishing batteries during the day with solar and if need be a small generator. We are very happy with our setup thus far, parallel inverter is next then solar.
@@saltytrips Also consider throwing in an extra charge controller that an external array can be connected to once parked, to augment the solar on the roof. A see a lot of people pull out temporary flexible panels after parking.
The main issue with batteries is to have enough for approximately 24 hours of operation. In poor weather or when parked in the shade, you only want to have to run the generator once a day for a few hours to charge the batteries up. Silence is golden 🙂
I was playing with running 2 a/c's. I ended up frying my battery disconnect. It was a cheap china disconnect and I changed it out for a blues 300 amp. I will play with it again in the summer and if it does it again I will change the 300 amp disconnect for a 600 battery disconnect. It is also important to check the temps of your wires in certain areas to see what they are reading and maybe a certain connection is hotter than in different areas
If you run appropriate wire size heat is not an issue, if your wires are getting hot then it’s definitely undersized. Same with the rest of the components.
We ran 2 ACs on my 12v system for about an hour before the inverter overheated and kicked off. But my multiplus ii 2x120 is on its side so cooling isn't perfect but any means.
Great video, great information. Can I ask you about your truck. I have the same 2022 F250 XLT 7.3 gas, Really like the truck, love the engine, but I have real concerns with transmission. Are you experiencing any downshift issues. While accelerating up shifts are fine, but when decelerating shifts are hard and jerky. Have you experienced any issues? Thanks in advance!!
You probably should have listed the AC specs. A 15k BTU is gonna draw more than the standard 13.5k
@@primedirective00 definitely wouldn’t run two 15k BTU
Nice video. What are you using to step down 24V to 12V for the rest of your electrical? Victron product or something else? Thank you.
ua-cam.com/video/EV0HWocQqRE/v-deo.htmlsi=cCz25NarOSL5zKUT
How many solar panels do you need to get 2500 watts? And, how does the weight of the solar panels effect your suspension on the trailer? Will you need to upgrade the suspension? Great video as always. Keep those puppies safe for sure.
We have a video coming out soon to explain all that and more, stay tuned. We are still in the process of installing and filming.
Gonna depend on how larg the solar panels are. Weight will be roughly 35lbs per 300W. Very approximately. Usually when fitting a space, like a RV roof, to solar, you find panels with dimensions that work well for that space.
Panel weight is not usually an issue, but battery weight can become an issue... particularly if one has a lot of batteries and the weight is lopsided on the suspension. Still, LiFePO4 is a lot lighter than lead-acid and even 10 kWh of usable storage is only roughly 160lbs worth of batteries.
@@junkerzn7312 will go over all that in up coming video 👍
My cc 525 bifacials are 70 lbs each.They stand 7.5 feet.Whith my mounting hardware 100 lbs per panel.I’ve been 500 lbs over weight before without panels.So this toy hauler may have to go on a diet lol
920ah 180 lbs plus wire plus 75 for inverter..I have 2 separate systems.The 920 is just for heavy loads.All my extra weight is centered over axels.
Doesn’t Victron have a forum? This will be good info when you find out !!! Now go catch us a tuna sandwich 😅
i would look at installing one minisplit instead of 2 ac
My comment got deleted somehow. Sorry if I did it by accident. I saw this issue in Facebook solar group. Here is a comment/answer that might explain the display discrepancies.
“The DC power readout on the GX is simply the difference between the watts measured going out to the AC loads and the watts going out of the battery. The extra power you’re seeing with the air conditioner running is the conversion loss from the inverter. With an inductive load like an air conditioner, you can see up to about 10-12% loss with any inverter since the power factor is less than 1 on the load.”
That’s incorrect, your getting this backwards. Battery use is reading correct wattage usage, AC load on GX read out is incorrect by a lot. No matter the power loss through inverting the AC load should reflect a correct AC wattage usage on the GX. Yes there should be a small discrepancy between battery draw which should equal DC and AC load minus 5% efficiency rate. Regardless the AC load should reflect accurate AC usage, two air conditioners running are over 2,600 watts but AC load was only showing 1,800.
Inverter efficiency loss would show on battery side as a 5% higher reading than the accurate AC load wattage. Not the other way around and not by almost 30% difference.
You said the “extra power your seeing” on the shunt its not “extra” thats actual accurate reading, two air conditioners, frig, and DC load like lights all add up yo about 2,700-2,800 watts which is what the battery shunt is showing. Are you saying you can run a frig and two air conditioners on 1,800 watts? No that preposterous, so the GX is reporting inaccurate AC load not an efficiency loss 🤦♂️
Move away from the awful roof AC's and you can get away with 300 watts per ac
@@MitchOfCanada At birth, a baby white rhino weighs approximately 40 to 60 kilograms.
I live in the Bahamas and we have NEVER got to 100 degrees and we are more south but we have same weather as Florida...so...nah brah, maybe 95 to maybe 98 and that's not for the whole summer
🤣 Never said it was 100 all summer 🤦♂️, thanks for watching
www.clickorlando.com/weather/2023/08/13/orlando-hits-100-degrees-breaks-record-from-1938/
amp.miamiherald.com/news/local/environment/climate-change/article277743448.html
www.foxweather.com/weather-news/florida-swelters-feels-like-temperatures-climb-over-105-on-4th-of-july.amp