In rural areas of Germany 30kW inverters are no rarity. I have about 50kWp and only 3 inverters, one is a GoodWe GW30K-ET and two self built 70kWh batteries (2 x 128 cells) attached to it. Besides some little CAN bus fiddling in the beginning everything works great since 2022.
I’m slowly learning that Europe has 3 phase in homes a lot more often than the UK. Here 3 phase in homes isn’t the norm. Especially the average man’s home
I'm just a little way behind you. Solax X3 Hybrid 15kW on the wall of the garage , and 64kWh Kia battery on the driveway. I need to get the unistrut sorted for mounting the battery, and then the fun of manhandling it into place. I'm jealous of you being able to crane it in!
I was looking at engine hoists but there was a limit on width in the passage and a step up at the gate. Also wanted it upright so needed to hoist it high. That sounds like a nice set up.
@@TheOfficialBatteryManeven nicer is that I have got my G99 for 18.8kW of export - 15kW from the Solax and 3.8 from my older FITs PV system. 😊😊 Shame I'll only get about 11kW from the Solax / Kia as the inverter maxes out at 30A, and the battery is 352V.
@@davestevenson7773 Hi Dave, do you have a 1 or 3 phase system? And what fuse? I would also like to setup something similar and I was wondering what assistance you can offer on the G99 application with your inverter and battery setup? Thanks
@@007silverwings 3 phase system, hence X3. The battery isn't connected quite yet. Fuse will be a hager l502pv holder and 30A PV fuses as the solax can only pull 30A from the battery. 32A PV mcb in series as backup.
@@davestevenson7773 thnaks for the reply 👍🏻 So did you just apply for the X3 on the G99 or have you told them about the battery too? Just wondering what to apply for, inverter only or inverter plus generic 64kwh battery rather than an old EV battery?
I would love to do a diy Tesla LFP install for my home. Sadly I know literally nothing about electrics or batteries, so admiring this install and cheering from afar is about as much as I can do. 👍
Absolutely brilliant love what you’re doing I just have two 9.5kw givenergy batteries if only I’d thought a bit more 😂😂. I think it’s called thinking outside the box 😂😂 well done keep the videos coming.
That’s a pretty decent amount of storage. I mean it’s not 75kWh ‘and counting’ but who’s counting. 😂😂👌 I’ve got one Givenergy 9.5kWh battery. Very happy with it. Thanks for commenting
Just had a second battery fitted with a free car charger from givenergy 😀 Still managed to use all the storage today!!! No gas in the house all electric we are consuming about 9000kw per year so could do with a car battery🤣🤣🤣🤣
I have to say your system and your project is absolutely badass. I thought my 8 kW solar panel inverter which is now four years old was kicking ass. But 30 kW future capacity with an actual Tesla model 3 battery attached the side of your house - that’s just legendary status. I just wander what would be if the DNO simply said “nope rejected goodbye!” to your G99 application,
I’ve already helped a few people toward free connection upgrades through one of my recent videos, so not sure my DNO can be that happy with me 😂😂 seriously tho they are awesome. I dealt with a great team. Of anything with the DNO changes we will defiantly share it on the channel
I have a couple of decisions which I will put to the audience. Help the grid and charge once a day discharging when the grid needs it the most or get the most out of it. I’ve seen £15 income in a day but that discharges the battery 1.5times. Will still take a long time to pay off
Following closely as plan to do similar although maybe not the same vehicle battery. Love the mounting with heat pump feet, and you may have convinced me to try this instead of leaving it on the floor of my garage and creating a false floor over it. I didn't see or hear a whole house or split EPS mentioned, any thoughts or plans? I should have my PV and fox-ess H1 6.0 being installed hopefully in a month or so, but due to timings may have to go with their own EP11 to begin with, I guess the downside is I will either need to sell up or parallel another inverter. Good luck with commissioning, saving and earning.
The plan so far is to use this to help the grid and buy and sell for the most profit. Those 2 tend to work together. Down the line we might consider a fast EV charger and selling the electric we store that way. Regardless they are not really the sort of loads that need backup. But it’s there if plans change. I have a small off grid inverter 4kw for the internet,tv and wifi. Thanks for sharing
Having already done three 30kwh LFP battery packs for an off-grid installation I am now intending to make up two further ones for my home solar system. Initially your idea of buying a used Tesla pack seemed a great idea. However you can now buy 30kwh of LFP cells for only £2000 so an investment of £4000 for 60kwh storage no longer makes the Tesla option look quite so compelling. The standard 48v LFP packs with JK inverters are easier to assemble and connect and work well with Victron inverter/chargers. I wish you well with your impressive project and will follow it with interest. Other viewers who have limited tech skills may find my approach a suitable alternative.
Nice. You sourcing your cells directly from China? I purchased some a few years ago and it’s amazing how the prices are come down. One nice advantage to the EV pack is high voltage so relatively low current
Yes have ordered from various retailers in China. Agreed high voltage keeps the current down but be very careful not to get shocks. The simplicity and neat VRM/Remote Consol display provided by Victron makes the 48v DC very easy. We even keep two EVs running from free off-grid solar for 10mths/yr. As long as the large DC cables are kept short the losses are not too bad. I transfer energy from the off-grid system back to my home (1.5 miles) using a pair of camping trailers each having a 30kwh pack.
Thanks for the great vid as usual. The more i watch about this Tesla battery home install the more i get tempted to try similar myself. Also a future vid Title suggestion for you " How to convince the wife in 10 easy steps :D " That would get a few views lol
I love this video series. As soon as I have a good space for the battery (the girlfriend approval time might be a while), I will do this at my house in Denmark. I already have a 8.5 kWp solar setup, with a 10 kW Growatt inverter, but only a measly 7 kWh Growatt battery.
@TheOfficialBatteryMan i was self employed as a car wrapper. This trick is usefull because you usually have something at hand to use (e.g painters tape, tesa) and a keeps your finger prints of the glue not comprehending the glue. Sorry for my bad english
Why can you only take 17kw out of the battery?? When installed in a car you can pull wayyyyy more… has it got to do with the lack of active cooling once removed from the car?
I got a 5kW export/PV generation allowance from the DNO in 2017, but looking at the DNO heat map of the local area network it now shows it as Amber (near operation limit). All the areas adjacent to mine are marked Red (at maximum operational limit). Unless the infrastructure is upgraded (like yours) many people will struggle these days to get more than the 3.68kW.
It’s crazy how the demands are so regional. Partly down to legacy and partly where generation now is. Out of interest what part of the country are you?
That is interesting, the Lifepo4 batteries just took a dive in price to about $20 per 280AH cell. I could make a pack with 160 cells(150kwh). Then plug it into a growatt "WIT 28K-A-US L2", which i may be able to get for around 3000USD. I just got 1000sqft of shipping containers that I can cover in solar panels, but I would need to do something to sister some joists before I could add solar to my roof.
Looks like you have never been in the Netherlands. Our ~30kWp solar array feeds an 25kWp inverter as those peaks are nearly never reached here at 52°N and our 400V 40A per phase connection matches up with that quite nicely. These setups are common here.
Thanks for sharing. . . I’m slowly learning 3 phase is common in mainland Europe. We generally have 230v single phase 60, 80 or 100amp to a property. We don’t fit smaller 30, 40 or 50amp fuses. What I would do to have a 30kw array. 😂😂
I'm a nerd lacking electrical knowledge & loving this series. I would have been dead by ep2 if it was my channel - which, 1) I don't possess a channel, 2) my prior mentioned absentee electrical know-how & 3) death in ep2 triggering disastrous production implications for ep3. My conclusion - sit back, get a cup of tea, watch you do it.
there are a lot of missing details of how you connected the battery to the inverter i wish to know, is there a follow up video on how you did it ? thank you
My latest video goes into the software side of things. I put out a video a little while back that explained how you liven up a Tesla battery. Those two should provide you with quite a bit more information. I started off this project with the aim of showing what could be done proving that it’s possible. And then showing off some of the benefits of why you would do that. Ive progressively up giving away more information than I expected. I’m on the fence with how much detail to share and not wanting to be liable in anyway for people copying and potentially getting hurt. But I’ve also learnt that there’s a lot of people that want to copy I want to do projects like this for themselves. It’s pretty amazing really.
Fuse holder Eaton Bussman 22x 58mm CH221DU Fuse FWP-63A22F They are rated 63amp able to carry 55 amp continuous. 50 amp for a 50amp set up can cause nuisance tripping. Consider the data sheets for your application. Din rail terminal for the negative side. Capable of taking 50mmsq cable. Don’t have a part number. There are loads of options. DF electric is one alternative to Eaton. The fuse hold part is PMF22X58-1 and they have battery specific fuses. Or 422163.
@@TheOfficialBatteryMan Thanks for that detail. I'm looking to add a Leaf battery to my Solis S6 10kWh hybrid inverter. But crikey, those Eaton fuse holders are pricey - I need 4, two at each end of a 12m cable run. Will look at the DF stuff.
@@fastbike9845I would fuse only at the battery and and only on the positive. That is how it would be set up if you were using a normal battery with the inverter. I ordered from Kempston controls if that helps on price. DF from TMU. Correct fusing is worth the money. It needs to be able to handle the total current in a short ‘breaking current’. Enjoy
This is great news! Love watching progress with this. Quick Q, can you still warm the battery like you can when it's installed in the car? If not, you might struggle with the charging rates come the cooler months?
I believe the model 3 uses the motor windings to effectively not drive the motor forward and run inefficiently from a drive view but efficiently as a heater in order to provide heat for the battery. So you’ve guessed it. None of that stuff is being used on my system. We will have to watch the temperatures in the winter and I expect the battery will be insulated during the winter months. I do plan on exploring this a little bit more in videos.
@@TheOfficialBatteryMan I can't wait to watch the progress 👍🏻 Check out the EVE MB30 datasheet which is a LFP battery I've got. You can discharge that at 0.5C at all temps. However you can only charge it a 0.5C @15degC and above. By 0degC it's max charge is 0.05C!
@@TheOfficialBatteryMan also, if you plan on charging and discharging fairly continously, say with Octopus agile to try and make money on the import/export market then it should stay warmish! 😉
So far is a ply board with roofing felt over the top. Not sure that warrants a video. Going to make the battery look pretty before we move onto that project 😂
Why would you want that. The battery is not watercooled right now. So best is to keep at 0.5C which here is 30kW. Charge discharge. Uncooled like this keep to max 0.5C.
@@TheOfficialBatteryMan oh I see, it's limited by the inverter not the battery. So the inverter has multiple high voltage DC in puts each limited to 50 amps. So if you wanted the full 30kw output the inverter is capable of you would need to use multiple dc inputs?
@@Thisisausername719 that’s correct. It’s 30kw rating is total AC. It can handle about 17KW through each of its 2 battery inputs and about 45kw of solar which it could split between AC and battery charging. Most hybrid inverters can handle more solar than the AC rating. So a fairly easy life for the Tesla pack
Can I ask what details you put on the DNO application? Obviously the FoxESS inverter, but clearly the Telsa battery won't be on the ENA register and I wondered how we can best circumnavigate that to get approval. Thanks
This is what I've been looking for, commenting before I watch the whole video. I live in the US and use about 100kwh per day... Now I have a grid tied solar array of 13.2 KW, but it only generates about 34 kilowatt hours per day, (yearly average) as im in VA and don't get that much sunlight. I need three times as much to offset my usage. What I'd like to do is set up a hybrid system where part of my house is off grid and the rest is on grid. What I've seen online is that they recommend a battery that can last you for 3 days. Do you know how hard it is to find residential batteries you can chain together to hit 300 kilowatt hours of storage?😂😂
That’s a pretty decent usage. In the UK we get cheap hours if we have say an EV so we try to move our usage to that period. Which reduces energy storage need. High voltage inverters sound like the route for you.
Is 3.6kw all the roof can fit? We can fit a 5KW system minimum on the smallest house. Ig its because of our roofs are built flat and yours are at an angle
I’m not quite sure how the 3.68kw rule came about. There is an argument for oversizing arrays anyway. Generally our properties just are not big enough to take more roof solar
O yes. I’m glad I’m hearing this because this is what I’m planning. The project is no where near finished. We have to make it all look professional and pretty
Over engineering that’s all I do to 1 allows a bit of future proofing, normally less stress on components but inverters are designed to run near max to get the best efficiency. Over engineer rather than under engineer ;) PS are you doing whole house off grid backup? If so use home assistant to flash the lights for a bit when the grid is down just so the family know what is going on and not to use too much high loads I had this the other day, so implemented the same via home assistant but found the Shelly switches didn’t switch off after the grid down event, found the hue bulbs worked well though. 50KG is heavy isn’t lol I had to lift my 41KG Victron inverter, it was very much not PC as I was doing with it trying to do it before it got dark 😂
Unsure if we will bother with off grid backup. We have a small 4kw inverter for off grid and the grid doesn’t go down often. I like your idea on flashing the lights to give information. Home assistant opens up a world of possibilities for sure
@@TheOfficialBatteryMan it sure does, you say that my grid has only been down twice one because of the cable at the distributor gen and the other due to frequency I’m balance that knocked out 2300 odd houses and charging that battery via solar while its grid down is probably worth doing and shelving the 4kW for like a maintenance backup? Yes home assistant has opened up loads and PS if you are Apple you can import it all to home kit and just use home assistant to run the automations ;)
have you done a video on the meter you have? I have 3 phase and a 3 phase solar system and am trying to find a company that will supply and fit a 3 phase smart meter so I can actually get paid for the power I'm sending to the grid. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks
Are you based in the uk? Most energy suppliers will install a 3 phase meter for you. I’ve got a link in my 3 phase video to sign up to octopus energy and split £100. If you request a meter off them they supply and fit.
I’m so hooked on this project and cant wait for the next upload! Il be thinking of doing something similar myself in the near future as I’ve got 34 panels on my roof with no battery. Can’t bring myself to spend £6k on a 10kw battery! Do you 100% need 3 phase supply to have an EV battery as battery storage?
Not at all do you need 3 phase power. Single phase inverters suit most people. The idea of my project is to go a little overboard. I would always recommend inverters that are on the approved list for the battery emulator and also on the approved to use in your location. And of course there are parts that need an electrician on board. Best of luck with the last part. I would also always recommend LFP batteries which limits the options
Possibly but also this battery is running at a slow rate compared to in the car. So it’s really not likely to be needed. Look up battery c rates. This is running at 0.3c. In a M3 this battery runs upto 3 c on a fast charge. Also liquid cooling could be a fun way to keep it at optimal temps and cool the inverter
Why did you choose a Fox inverter ? Any specific function it offers that others dont have ? I do plan to use a Deye. Nice to see that you got everything up and running ! 🤩
Genuinely I think the name drew me. Plus for its size its start up MPTT is 150v and all others were 200v at that size. With smaller arrays I need lower startup
Just asking why Fox and not for example a Deye 30kW unit? Personally i am going to use a 50kW Deye which is 80kg... so yeah heavy as F*ck but ye. Overkill because im gonna FULLY fill the MPPT trackers on that thing so without going with solar on AC first then to battery i can go full power charging the battery from solar. I guess you futureproofed the thing by going 30kW which is a good idea. Does this Fox inverter also has 2 battery inputs? And lots of MPPT trackers enough for future implementations for more solar? Final: I love your video's go on!! Love it. :)
Compliance and familiarity. Plus I like the name. Yeah have 2 battery inputs for uhh future fun. Can handle a max of 45kw solar although I don’t have enough for it
Tesla BMS needs to see a certain level of ramp up as if it was connected to the rear motor on start up. It only serves contractor closing. TBF the inverter may be big enough to do it itself but we know these Tesla battery packs need them for smaller inverters.
@@TheOfficialBatteryMan Do you know the amount of capacitance? Otherwise you can always check first what is the capacitance of our inverter. So you can just assume it's working ok.
Thanks for the video. Exciting stuff. Left field question. You seem to possibly have the same interests as me. You have a 3D printer, and I saw you have a load of 18650 batteries in one of your other videos. Did you by any chance used to watch EVTV, or do you watch Damien Maguire on UA-cam? Has this maybe been an idea percolating in your head for ~10 years, possibly a bit Jack Rickard inspired....or do you have no idea what I am talking about?
I’ve heard of Damien I’ll have to look up the other people 😂 the idea is definitely been in my head for a long time slowly build the skills to turn the idea into reality.
You don’t need MCS to export no. Approval for the connection from DNO needed through G98,G99. But if you wanna get paid for it, there is very few energy suppliers that don’t require MCS. MCS is designed to meet a certain standard of installer. But I’ve personally seen MCS installers using guttering as cable trays and just pulling cables under tiles claiming it’s double insulated so it will be fine.
@timballam3675 that's incorrect. Octopus want MCS unless they deem you can join the trial where you pay £300 to be onboarded. No guarantee they will let you on the trial without MCS and even if they do how long is the payback on that £300??
@@timballam3675 Octopus want either an MCS certificate, or the option to pay for an inspection, but you also need installation certificates and both the Part A and Part P building control submissions. Not sure how he'll get around it, but interesting to find out.
If you think that is heavy, try a 15k Victron Multiplus2! 😂 Can I ask for your DNO export submission did you have to do a Single Line Diagram or a full wiring diagram as I’ve submitted SLD’s but they complained and wanted full wiring which still hasn’t been accepted… 😢
It’s going to vary wildly depending on the condition of the battery, whether you can get a good deal so on. But it’s far cheaper per KW than traditional home energy storage
I actually laughed out loud when you said it would be up there for a couple of years gathering data without adding anything else...bollocks (or however you brits say it) :-)
DNO approval of the inverter isn't a massive problem, but how are you getting past DNO approval of the fact the battery which isn't going to ENA type tested?
The inverter can only pull 50 amp per connected battery. There is no benefit to fusing higher than needed. Fusing as low as possible helps ensure that if the fuse needs to operate it will better serious currents flow. I would also need larger cable to work with larger fuses. . I have however increased this to 63a fuse to cover continuous 50amp and reduce losses across the fuse.
@@TheOfficialBatteryMan Since the battery can supply far, far more than 50 amps, would it be possible to simply connect it to a second battery input on the inverter? The orange DC cables from the battery are clearly sized for hundreds of amps (peak charge/discharge in the car is >500 amps.) Could you put another 63 amp fuse in that box, and run another battery supply line to the inverter?
@@jimmurphy5355 yes but also no. The battery emulator isn’t set up to provide 2 simultaneous BMS control for one battery pack. The code could be written I’m sure. But you have to consider how would that run. The battery BMS reports say current. If input 1 is pulling 50amps and input 2 sees this but the inverter doesn’t sense it we would get errors. Intimately it has to run correctly so the inverter can control the battery. So in reality it means separate battery packs per input. That way you get both more capacity and more power from batteries
@@TheOfficialBatteryMan Sounds to me like the inverter is too smart for it's own good. My inverter does not communicate with my battery. It just draws current. The BMS in the battery is there to show me the SOC, keep the cells in balance, and, if neccessary, prevent overcharging or over discharging. Because my solar charger never overcharges the battery, and the inverter stops drawing current when the battery is low, and before the battery gets low enough for the BMS to step in, the BMS is just there for the info, and top balance.
@@TheOfficialBatteryMan it has 14 modules, so I created 7 parallel layers of 2 modules in series, for a 48V nominal setup. Each of the 7 layers has its own JK smart BMS
Im gonna use a 50kW inverter on a 17kW max net connection. You have to let the inverter measure the voltage and current on your net connection and fill in the limits. It will limit itself based on the max power to and from the net.
Unless you’re in the industry, I doubt most people would see hybrid inverters that size at homes. Maybe some farms but that is arguable commercial. I should have clarified ‘hybrid’
If you were to do longer videos of this, I'd watch them - don't go scrimping out on us!!! Out of interest.....is it purely about powering your house/reducing costs or are you going to be selling back (by charging to battery up overnight using cheap and selling back during the day). Don't recall hearing the plans for what you'll do with it yet.
Buying and selling. Becoming a small generator to support the grid by changing the usage curve, giving back when the grid needs it at peak times. Ahh there is so much to this project. It would be a very long video missing steps. I don’t want people thinking this is easy 😂
Oy / Cory were using a Jaguar battery, not Tesla. The Jag support is still being worked on. Tesla, Leaf, Kia, and a number of other batteries are all well supported.
But ev`s are safe they say ???????? so put it inside your house , maybe the loft , thats out the way if its as safe as they say then there`s no problem ..........
Looks fun but using equipment with an inherent fire risk outside of its designed configuration feels like a fire waiting to happen. For example, having the battery in a vertical configuration as opposed to a horizontal one will result in different thermal transfer dynamics. I’m glad I’m not your neighbour!
Got a 72kWh NMC used EV battery, it warms by only 3°C a day above ambient when charging. Needs no cooling, never gets to 30°C or above. Charge/discharge rates here are C5 max ! Heat is no issue
Hi. These considerations we have taken into account. So far, after hours of charging and discharging we have seen a max of 30c within the pack and can dynamically alter current rates depending on pack temperatures. We can also make use of the thermal water cooling built into the pack if needed. Meanwhile an off the shelf unmolested Givenergy battery we have seen temps of 75c being reported during force discharge.
@@TheOfficialBatteryMan As a young schoolboy and budding chemist, in the days before 9/11, you could go to the pharmacy or dry salter and pick up a variety of highly reactive elements and compounds. One day, I was preparing a highly exothermic reaction that I had performed many times before, it was one in which a metal catalyst was needed in order to start the reaction. This time, because it was cold outside I mixed the necessary reactants in the lounge and planned to take it outside before adding the catalyst, however, for a reason that is unknown to me, the reaction started even before the catalyst was added and a 5 foot flame shot out of the plastic pill bottle I was using to mix the reagents. I very nearly burnt the house down that day. My long and boring point being, it is the unexpected and unanticipated that are the cause of most potentially hazardous accidents.
@@TheOfficialBatteryMan I seem to remember it was potassium permanganate (which you used to be able to buy for antiseptic properties) and glycerine (making cake icing) and baking foil as the catalyst. I can only guess that one of the reactants contained an impurity or I was super careless. These were the days when most fabrics were polyester, as I was holding this massive firework with my bare hands and trying to unlock the back door I caught the curtains and nets and then the sofa on fire. I got outside and luckily there was a garden hose nearby. I had some explaining to do when my parents got home!
I think you're spot on and this system will be future proof. Im fairly convinced that being paid for solar export (i get 15p per kwh) during the daylight hours will stop in the coming years, we already pay wind to stop generating on very sunny days. Future IMHO is the ability to store energy on a micro scale and sell it back during peak demand. Whether thats self produced and stored or grid based from off peak, or in my case a combination of both. I too have a Fox Inverter HA-10.5 selected in part due to it high DC battery input voltage range - Fox's own batteries are linked in series not parallel as most are, my 23kw Fox Cube sits around 240V DC fully charged. Yes Fox Cubes are expensive per kwh compared to a model 3 battery but if the future dictates more time shifting then a model 3 battery will find itself a new life on the side on my house too. Question, does the Fox inverter required the double Lillygo to isolate the Tela ModBus from its own? Keep up the good work, great channel 👍🏻
Looking forward to the Home Assistant bit, enjoying all of it so far
Wondering if I will tidy up my Home Assistant or show it as rough and ready as it is
@@TheOfficialBatteryMan Everyone I know with HA has it rough and ready, it's a never ending playground of experiments
I'm here for the overkill 🎉
That sir makes me happy
In rural areas of Germany 30kW inverters are no rarity. I have about 50kWp and only 3 inverters, one is a GoodWe GW30K-ET and two self built 70kWh batteries (2 x 128 cells) attached to it. Besides some little CAN bus fiddling in the beginning everything works great since 2022.
I’m slowly learning that Europe has 3 phase in homes a lot more often than the UK. Here 3 phase in homes isn’t the norm. Especially the average man’s home
this is a beast of an install
I'm just a little way behind you. Solax X3 Hybrid 15kW on the wall of the garage , and 64kWh Kia battery on the driveway. I need to get the unistrut sorted for mounting the battery, and then the fun of manhandling it into place. I'm jealous of you being able to crane it in!
I was looking at engine hoists but there was a limit on width in the passage and a step up at the gate. Also wanted it upright so needed to hoist it high. That sounds like a nice set up.
@@TheOfficialBatteryManeven nicer is that I have got my G99 for 18.8kW of export - 15kW from the Solax and 3.8 from my older FITs PV system. 😊😊
Shame I'll only get about 11kW from the Solax / Kia as the inverter maxes out at 30A, and the battery is 352V.
@@davestevenson7773 Hi Dave, do you have a 1 or 3 phase system? And what fuse?
I would also like to setup something similar and I was wondering what assistance you can offer on the G99 application with your inverter and battery setup? Thanks
@@007silverwings 3 phase system, hence X3. The battery isn't connected quite yet. Fuse will be a hager l502pv holder and 30A PV fuses as the solax can only pull 30A from the battery. 32A PV mcb in series as backup.
@@davestevenson7773 thnaks for the reply 👍🏻 So did you just apply for the X3 on the G99 or have you told them about the battery too? Just wondering what to apply for, inverter only or inverter plus generic 64kwh battery rather than an old EV battery?
I would love to do a diy Tesla LFP install for my home. Sadly I know literally nothing about electrics or batteries, so admiring this install and cheering from afar is about as much as I can do. 👍
One day vehicle to grid might come about and you can scratch that itch
Great work love seeing the one off projects inspiring us to do our own thing.
Diddly
Was that a Flanders reference 😂😂😂😂🙃
God I love this so much. I hope to replicate this once I have my own house in 10 years or so with 2 or 3 batteries
You worried about the next landlord inspection if you started now 😂😂
Absolutely brilliant love what you’re doing I just have two 9.5kw givenergy batteries if only I’d thought a bit more 😂😂. I think it’s called thinking outside the box 😂😂 well done keep the videos coming.
That’s a pretty decent amount of storage. I mean it’s not 75kWh ‘and counting’ but who’s counting. 😂😂👌
I’ve got one Givenergy 9.5kWh battery. Very happy with it. Thanks for commenting
Just had a second battery fitted with a free car charger from givenergy 😀 Still managed to use all the storage today!!! No gas in the house all electric we are consuming about 9000kw per year so could do with a car battery🤣🤣🤣🤣
Great video. I can confirm that I am also a nerd and I like this sort of thing 😂
Oo someone watched to the end. Confirming nerd status for sure 😂
I have to say your system and your project is absolutely badass. I thought my 8 kW solar panel inverter which is now four years old was kicking ass. But 30 kW future capacity with an actual Tesla model 3 battery attached the side of your house - that’s just legendary status.
I just wander what would be if the DNO simply said “nope rejected goodbye!” to your G99 application,
I’ve already helped a few people toward free connection upgrades through one of my recent videos, so not sure my DNO can be that happy with me 😂😂 seriously tho they are awesome. I dealt with a great team.
Of anything with the DNO changes we will defiantly share it on the channel
Keep up the great content. That H3 pro is one heavy beast
Shall I keep a spare for gym equipment? 😂😂
Great progress. Can't wait to hear your plans for revenue once this is all working as intended 👍 Good luck with the rest of the install
I have a couple of decisions which I will put to the audience. Help the grid and charge once a day discharging when the grid needs it the most or get the most out of it. I’ve seen £15 income in a day but that discharges the battery 1.5times. Will still take a long time to pay off
Following closely as plan to do similar although maybe not the same vehicle battery. Love the mounting with heat pump feet, and you may have convinced me to try this instead of leaving it on the floor of my garage and creating a false floor over it.
I didn't see or hear a whole house or split EPS mentioned, any thoughts or plans?
I should have my PV and fox-ess H1 6.0 being installed hopefully in a month or so, but due to timings may have to go with their own EP11 to begin with, I guess the downside is I will either need to sell up or parallel another inverter. Good luck with commissioning, saving and earning.
The plan so far is to use this to help the grid and buy and sell for the most profit. Those 2 tend to work together. Down the line we might consider a fast EV charger and selling the electric we store that way. Regardless they are not really the sort of loads that need backup. But it’s there if plans change. I have a small off grid inverter 4kw for the internet,tv and wifi. Thanks for sharing
Progress! Well done.
Thank you
Awesome work. 👍
Having already done three 30kwh LFP battery packs for an off-grid installation I am now intending to make up two further ones for my home solar system. Initially your idea of buying a used Tesla pack seemed a great idea. However you can now buy 30kwh of LFP cells for only £2000 so an investment of £4000 for 60kwh storage no longer makes the Tesla option look quite so compelling. The standard 48v LFP packs with JK inverters are easier to assemble and connect and work well with Victron inverter/chargers.
I wish you well with your impressive project and will follow it with interest. Other viewers who have limited tech skills may find my approach a suitable alternative.
Nice. You sourcing your cells directly from China? I purchased some a few years ago and it’s amazing how the prices are come down. One nice advantage to the EV pack is high voltage so relatively low current
Yes have ordered from various retailers in China. Agreed high voltage keeps the current down but be very careful not to get shocks. The simplicity and neat VRM/Remote Consol display provided by Victron makes the 48v DC very easy. We even keep two EVs running from free off-grid solar for 10mths/yr. As long as the large DC cables are kept short the losses are not too bad. I transfer energy from the off-grid system back to my home (1.5 miles) using a pair of camping trailers each having a 30kwh pack.
Thanks for the great vid as usual. The more i watch about this Tesla battery home install the more i get tempted to try similar myself. Also a future vid Title suggestion for you " How to convince the wife in 10 easy steps :D " That would get a few views lol
Im not sure I have convinced the wife 😂😂👌 great idea
Another Great video. That's a big inverter.
Glad you enjoyed
Need a video for the software side, all the apps including your Electricity supplier and tariff options now available!
Noted!
Looking good! 🙂
Love your videos and enthusiasm
Thank you
what an awesome project 👍
Awesome. Can't wait to see it all working. 👍
O you will
Love your videos keep up the great work 👍
Means a lot. Glad you’re enjoying. UA-cam is full of people doing stupid things you wouldn’t but can still enjoy and be part of 😂😂
@@TheOfficialBatteryMan you are making great educational videos and I look forward to your next video hopefully very soon 🤞
I love this video series. As soon as I have a good space for the battery (the girlfriend approval time might be a while), I will do this at my house in Denmark. I already have a 8.5 kWp solar setup, with a 10 kW Growatt inverter, but only a measly 7 kWh Growatt battery.
I remember starting with my first 7kwh of EVE 280ah cells. Best of luck
Another excellent video!
Thanks again!
To separate stickers from the carrier film, use sticky tape on both sides and pull it apart.
Feel so stupid now. So simple
@TheOfficialBatteryMan i was self employed as a car wrapper. This trick is usefull because you usually have something at hand to use (e.g painters tape, tesa) and a keeps your finger prints of the glue not comprehending the glue.
Sorry for my bad english
Why can you only take 17kw out of the battery?? When installed in a car you can pull wayyyyy more… has it got to do with the lack of active cooling once removed from the car?
The limit of the solar inverters dc to ac converter.
I got a 5kW export/PV generation allowance from the DNO in 2017, but looking at the DNO heat map of the local area network it now shows it as Amber (near operation limit). All the areas adjacent to mine are marked Red (at maximum operational limit). Unless the infrastructure is upgraded (like yours) many people will struggle these days to get more than the 3.68kW.
It’s crazy how the demands are so regional. Partly down to legacy and partly where generation now is. Out of interest what part of the country are you?
Just keep the offcut connector you know you will need it for the next battery you parallel in
You shouldn’t encourage me like this. It’s dangerous 😂😂🤣
That is interesting, the Lifepo4 batteries just took a dive in price to about $20 per 280AH cell. I could make a pack with 160 cells(150kwh). Then plug it into a growatt "WIT 28K-A-US L2", which i may be able to get for around 3000USD. I just got 1000sqft of shipping containers that I can cover in solar panels, but I would need to do something to sister some joists before I could add solar to my roof.
Wow that is good prices for cells. What brand?
I’m jealous of the shipping container. Watch this space
I think it's time for an upgrade too 😂
Looks like you have never been in the Netherlands.
Our ~30kWp solar array feeds an 25kWp inverter as those peaks are nearly never reached here at 52°N and our 400V 40A per phase connection matches up with that quite nicely.
These setups are common here.
Ensurance stuff and other rules add more issues than the proble of where to put the many PV panels you want for big size installations.
Thanks for sharing. . . I’m slowly learning 3 phase is common in mainland Europe. We generally have 230v single phase 60, 80 or 100amp to a property. We don’t fit smaller 30, 40 or 50amp fuses. What I would do to have a 30kw array. 😂😂
Time to invest in a simple Brother P-Touch Label Maker. I have one and use it to label all of the devices, cables, etc.
You are right. Genuine tape or aftermarket?
That Fox H3 is a beast of an inverter at 128-lbs weight! You actually have 3-phase power at your home?
I do indeed. Check out earlier videos where I explain all. Thanks for commenting
I'm a nerd lacking electrical knowledge & loving this series. I would have been dead by ep2 if it was my channel - which, 1) I don't possess a channel, 2) my prior mentioned absentee electrical know-how & 3) death in ep2 triggering disastrous production implications for ep3.
My conclusion - sit back, get a cup of tea, watch you do it.
😂😂😂 that’s what we like sit back with a cuppa and enjoy
It’s wild that you only have 3k subs!
That’s what happens when you start UA-cam 10 years after everyone else 😂😂😂
there are a lot of missing details of how you connected the battery to the inverter i wish to know, is there a follow up video on how you did it ? thank you
My latest video goes into the software side of things. I put out a video a little while back that explained how you liven up a Tesla battery. Those two should provide you with quite a bit more information.
I started off this project with the aim of showing what could be done proving that it’s possible. And then showing off some of the benefits of why you would do that. Ive progressively up giving away more information than I expected. I’m on the fence with how much detail to share and not wanting to be liable in anyway for people copying and potentially getting hurt. But I’ve also learnt that there’s a lot of people that want to copy I want to do projects like this for themselves. It’s pretty amazing really.
Nice job
Thank you! Cheers!
What gear did you put into the box between the battery and the inverter ? Assuming fuses, disconnects etc. Do you have part numbers ?
Fuse holder Eaton Bussman 22x 58mm CH221DU
Fuse FWP-63A22F They are rated 63amp able to carry 55 amp continuous. 50 amp for a 50amp set up can cause nuisance tripping. Consider the data sheets for your application.
Din rail terminal for the negative side. Capable of taking 50mmsq cable. Don’t have a part number. There are loads of options.
DF electric is one alternative to Eaton. The fuse hold part is PMF22X58-1 and they have battery specific fuses. Or 422163.
@@TheOfficialBatteryMan Thanks for that detail. I'm looking to add a Leaf battery to my Solis S6 10kWh hybrid inverter. But crikey, those Eaton fuse holders are pricey - I need 4, two at each end of a 12m cable run. Will look at the DF stuff.
@@fastbike9845I would fuse only at the battery and and only on the positive. That is how it would be set up if you were using a normal battery with the inverter. I ordered from Kempston controls if that helps on price. DF from TMU. Correct fusing is worth the money. It needs to be able to handle the total current in a short ‘breaking current’. Enjoy
This is great news! Love watching progress with this.
Quick Q, can you still warm the battery like you can when it's installed in the car? If not, you might struggle with the charging rates come the cooler months?
I believe the model 3 uses the motor windings to effectively not drive the motor forward and run inefficiently from a drive view but efficiently as a heater in order to provide heat for the battery. So you’ve guessed it. None of that stuff is being used on my system. We will have to watch the temperatures in the winter and I expect the battery will be insulated during the winter months. I do plan on exploring this a little bit more in videos.
@@TheOfficialBatteryMan I can't wait to watch the progress 👍🏻
Check out the EVE MB30 datasheet which is a LFP battery I've got. You can discharge that at 0.5C at all temps. However you can only charge it a 0.5C @15degC and above. By 0degC it's max charge is 0.05C!
@@TheOfficialBatteryMan also, if you plan on charging and discharging fairly continously, say with Octopus agile to try and make money on the import/export market then it should stay warmish! 😉
@@007silverwings you got it
@@TheOfficialBatteryMan Looking forward to seeing the HA integrations and progress once you are up and running.
No video on what you replaced the roof with?!?! We need to know!!
So far is a ply board with roofing felt over the top. Not sure that warrants a video. Going to make the battery look pretty before we move onto that project 😂
Why is the battery limited to 50 amps? I'd imagine they can put out many hundreds of amps when used in the model 3/y
Great video thanks🙏🏻
The inverter power is limited to 50 amps per input. Which limits the battery to a nice relaxed charge/discharge.
Why would you want that. The battery is not watercooled right now. So best is to keep at 0.5C which here is 30kW. Charge discharge. Uncooled like this keep to max 0.5C.
@@HermanWillems it’s running at 17kw. So well under
@@TheOfficialBatteryMan oh I see, it's limited by the inverter not the battery. So the inverter has multiple high voltage DC in puts each limited to 50 amps. So if you wanted the full 30kw output the inverter is capable of you would need to use multiple dc inputs?
@@Thisisausername719 that’s correct. It’s 30kw rating is total AC. It can handle about 17KW through each of its 2 battery inputs and about 45kw of solar which it could split between AC and battery charging. Most hybrid inverters can handle more solar than the AC rating.
So a fairly easy life for the Tesla pack
Can I ask what details you put on the DNO application? Obviously the FoxESS inverter, but clearly the Telsa battery won't be on the ENA register and I wondered how we can best circumnavigate that to get approval. Thanks
I think it only makes a mention on the diagram. I would recommend using a website like easyPV to generate your forms and diagrams
@@TheOfficialBatteryMan but would you just put battery on the diagram, or go into any more detail? I guess less detail the better 🤪
This is what I've been looking for, commenting before I watch the whole video. I live in the US and use about 100kwh per day... Now I have a grid tied solar array of 13.2 KW, but it only generates about 34 kilowatt hours per day, (yearly average) as im in VA and don't get that much sunlight. I need three times as much to offset my usage. What I'd like to do is set up a hybrid system where part of my house is off grid and the rest is on grid. What I've seen online is that they recommend a battery that can last you for 3 days. Do you know how hard it is to find residential batteries you can chain together to hit 300 kilowatt hours of storage?😂😂
That’s a pretty decent usage. In the UK we get cheap hours if we have say an EV so we try to move our usage to that period. Which reduces energy storage need.
High voltage inverters sound like the route for you.
Is 3.6kw all the roof can fit? We can fit a 5KW system minimum on the smallest house. Ig its because of our roofs are built flat and yours are at an angle
I’m not quite sure how the 3.68kw rule came about. There is an argument for oversizing arrays anyway. Generally our properties just are not big enough to take more roof solar
I think you're subscribers, including me, would love a full details video. 60 minutes would be a good length if you've got enough footage.
O yes. I’m glad I’m hearing this because this is what I’m planning. The project is no where near finished. We have to make it all look professional and pretty
You are are the battery version of Colin Furze 😊
Colin is a role model for us all. It would be my honour to take the title of ‘like Colin Furze but for batteries’ 😂😂
Hello from a fellow nerd trying to connect a Fox inverter to a car battery 😉
A man that knows far more detail than the average viewer 😂😂
Would it be possible to use an inverter like this in a vehicle to grid situation?
The simple answer is not now but potentially in the future. It would be far easier to choose a vehicle that supports V2G but they are limited
Ok what bout the cooling for the battery it doesn’t need much but the pack can het high enough in summer to cause issues
How do you cool every other solar battery storage?
@@TheOfficialBatteryManisn’t this battery designed to have water cooling in the car?
hi i have a video idea you could do a video implementing the battery cooling / heating
Nice idea. Let to see the winter effects but we will document it
Battery fire comes to mind! Attached to your house, does insurance cover this?
Your going to love the next video😬🤯
Over engineering that’s all I do to 1 allows a bit of future proofing, normally less stress on components but inverters are designed to run near max to get the best efficiency. Over engineer rather than under engineer ;) PS are you doing whole house off grid backup? If so use home assistant to flash the lights for a bit when the grid is down just so the family know what is going on and not to use too much high loads I had this the other day, so implemented the same via home assistant but found the Shelly switches didn’t switch off after the grid down event, found the hue bulbs worked well though. 50KG is heavy isn’t lol I had to lift my 41KG Victron inverter, it was very much not PC as I was doing with it trying to do it before it got dark 😂
Unsure if we will bother with off grid backup. We have a small 4kw inverter for off grid and the grid doesn’t go down often. I like your idea on flashing the lights to give information. Home assistant opens up a world of possibilities for sure
@@TheOfficialBatteryMan it sure does, you say that my grid has only been down twice one because of the cable at the distributor gen and the other due to frequency I’m balance that knocked out 2300 odd houses and charging that battery via solar while its grid down is probably worth doing and shelving the 4kW for like a maintenance backup? Yes home assistant has opened up loads and PS if you are Apple you can import it all to home kit and just use home assistant to run the automations ;)
With knowledge from your install could you modify the Tesla model 3 into V2H
There are some smarter people than me working on CAN bus communication with the charger ports. Who knows where this might end
Please explain how you are going to charge the battery and way you have the capacitor in that box?.
The inverter handles charging and discharging. As far as the inverter is concerned it’s connected to a Fox battery
have you done a video on the meter you have? I have 3 phase and a 3 phase solar system and am trying to find a company that will supply and fit a 3 phase smart meter so I can actually get paid for the power I'm sending to the grid. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks
Are you based in the uk? Most energy suppliers will install a 3 phase meter for you. I’ve got a link in my 3 phase video to sign up to octopus energy and split £100. If you request a meter off them they supply and fit.
@@TheOfficialBatteryMan I haven't had any luck finding one that will supply a 3 phase smart meter. I'm in Devon
@@TheOfficialBatteryMan I've sent in the request via your link, will wait and see what they come back with as my house was not on their drop down list
@@paulusher3278 octopus did for me. They have a 3 phase metering team. 08081967511
Isnt the tesla cable made of aluminum? You will need a special connector to prevent fireworks🎉
It is indeed aluminium. Not an issues copper and aluminium are used regularly in electric connections. It just needs to be downsized
@@TheOfficialBatteryMan When we do connections in my work, we always use aluminium to copper crimp.
I’m so hooked on this project and cant wait for the next upload! Il be thinking of doing something similar myself in the near future as I’ve got 34 panels on my roof with no battery. Can’t bring myself to spend £6k on a 10kw battery! Do you 100% need 3 phase supply to have an EV battery as battery storage?
Not at all do you need 3 phase power. Single phase inverters suit most people. The idea of my project is to go a little overboard. I would always recommend inverters that are on the approved list for the battery emulator and also on the approved to use in your location. And of course there are parts that need an electrician on board. Best of luck with the last part.
I would also always recommend LFP batteries which limits the options
@@TheOfficialBatteryMan sounds like you want to help me, any chance you’re in the Cheshire area 🤣🤣
Awesome 🤘
Thanks ✌️
Are you going to liquid cool the battery?
Possibly but also this battery is running at a slow rate compared to in the car. So it’s really not likely to be needed. Look up battery c rates. This is running at 0.3c. In a M3 this battery runs upto 3 c on a fast charge. Also liquid cooling could be a fun way to keep it at optimal temps and cool the inverter
Why did you choose a Fox inverter ? Any specific function it offers that others dont have ? I do plan to use a Deye. Nice to see that you got everything up and running ! 🤩
Genuinely I think the name drew me. Plus for its size its start up MPTT is 150v and all others were 200v at that size. With smaller arrays I need lower startup
Just asking why Fox and not for example a Deye 30kW unit? Personally i am going to use a 50kW Deye which is 80kg... so yeah heavy as F*ck but ye. Overkill because im gonna FULLY fill the MPPT trackers on that thing so without going with solar on AC first then to battery i can go full power charging the battery from solar. I guess you futureproofed the thing by going 30kW which is a good idea. Does this Fox inverter also has 2 battery inputs? And lots of MPPT trackers enough for future implementations for more solar? Final: I love your video's go on!! Love it. :)
Compliance and familiarity. Plus I like the name.
Yeah have 2 battery inputs for uhh future fun. Can handle a max of 45kw solar although I don’t have enough for it
Why the capacitor?
Tesla BMS needs to see a certain level of ramp up as if it was connected to the rear motor on start up. It only serves contractor closing. TBF the inverter may be big enough to do it itself but we know these Tesla battery packs need them for smaller inverters.
@@TheOfficialBatteryMan Do you know the amount of capacitance? Otherwise you can always check first what is the capacitance of our inverter. So you can just assume it's working ok.
Thanks for the video. Exciting stuff. Left field question. You seem to possibly have the same interests as me. You have a 3D printer, and I saw you have a load of 18650 batteries in one of your other videos. Did you by any chance used to watch EVTV, or do you watch Damien Maguire on UA-cam? Has this maybe been an idea percolating in your head for ~10 years, possibly a bit Jack Rickard inspired....or do you have no idea what I am talking about?
I’ve heard of Damien I’ll have to look up the other people 😂 the idea is definitely been in my head for a long time slowly build the skills to turn the idea into reality.
Do you need MCS certification to export electricity? And if so how do you get it for a homebrew build?
You don’t need MCS to export no. Approval for the connection from DNO needed through G98,G99. But if you wanna get paid for it, there is very few energy suppliers that don’t require MCS.
MCS is designed to meet a certain standard of installer. But I’ve personally seen MCS installers using guttering as cable trays and just pulling cables under tiles claiming it’s double insulated so it will be fine.
Not for Octopus, but it needs to be safe, ie it needs to be installed or checked by a competent person.
Octopus insisted on my MCS before paying for my export.
@timballam3675 that's incorrect. Octopus want MCS unless they deem you can join the trial where you pay £300 to be onboarded. No guarantee they will let you on the trial without MCS and even if they do how long is the payback on that £300??
@@timballam3675 Octopus want either an MCS certificate, or the option to pay for an inspection, but you also need installation certificates and both the Part A and Part P building control submissions. Not sure how he'll get around it, but interesting to find out.
If you think that is heavy, try a 15k Victron Multiplus2! 😂
Can I ask for your DNO export submission did you have to do a Single Line Diagram or a full wiring diagram as I’ve submitted SLD’s but they complained and wanted full wiring which still hasn’t been accepted… 😢
Try using EasyPV to complete your DNO forms
What was the cost of the model 3 battery?
It’s going to vary wildly depending on the condition of the battery, whether you can get a good deal so on. But it’s far cheaper per KW than traditional home energy storage
@ how much did you pay for your m3 battery?
If you are going to have one, might as well be a BIG one.
A man who knows the score
I actually laughed out loud when you said it would be up there for a couple of years gathering data without adding anything else...bollocks (or however you brits say it) :-)
😂😂😂
You wouldn’t want that to catch fire 🔥
How much solar can you put into this
45 kw. I just got to find a way to fit that much solar
@TheOfficialBatteryMan wow that huge
DNO approval of the inverter isn't a massive problem, but how are you getting past DNO approval of the fact the battery which isn't going to ENA type tested?
you probably saw at video beginning that he unwrapped battery from plastic film, maybe he want just wrap it again ;)
That’s funny 🤣
Why the 50 amp battery fuse. Surely the Tesla battery can supply several hundred amps.
The inverter can only pull 50 amp per connected battery. There is no benefit to fusing higher than needed. Fusing as low as possible helps ensure that if the fuse needs to operate it will better serious currents flow. I would also need larger cable to work with larger fuses. . I have however increased this to 63a fuse to cover continuous 50amp and reduce losses across the fuse.
@@TheOfficialBatteryMan Since the battery can supply far, far more than 50 amps, would it be possible to simply connect it to a second battery input on the inverter? The orange DC cables from the battery are clearly sized for hundreds of amps (peak charge/discharge in the car is >500 amps.) Could you put another 63 amp fuse in that box, and run another battery supply line to the inverter?
@@jimmurphy5355 yes but also no. The battery emulator isn’t set up to provide 2 simultaneous BMS control for one battery pack. The code could be written I’m sure. But you have to consider how would that run. The battery BMS reports say current. If input 1 is pulling 50amps and input 2 sees this but the inverter doesn’t sense it we would get errors. Intimately it has to run correctly so the inverter can control the battery. So in reality it means separate battery packs per input. That way you get both more capacity and more power from batteries
@@TheOfficialBatteryMan Sounds to me like the inverter is too smart for it's own good. My inverter does not communicate with my battery. It just draws current. The BMS in the battery is there to show me the SOC, keep the cells in balance, and, if neccessary, prevent overcharging or over discharging. Because my solar charger never overcharges the battery, and the inverter stops drawing current when the battery is low, and before the battery gets low enough for the BMS to step in, the BMS is just there for the info, and top balance.
I have a 80kWh Tesla Model S battery as my home battery. But admittedly my inverter is not as big as yours 😁
Impressive. Did you break the pack down or keep it intact?
@@TheOfficialBatteryMan it has 14 modules, so I created 7 parallel layers of 2 modules in series, for a 48V nominal setup. Each of the 7 layers has its own JK smart BMS
You might be here for the overkill, but I'm here for the flip flops 😂
😂😂 will have to make a feature each video
how the hell did you get a 30kW export limit on a single phase (according to the connection offer, obv you have 3ph) and I can't even get >5kW :D
Im gonna use a 50kW inverter on a 17kW max net connection. You have to let the inverter measure the voltage and current on your net connection and fill in the limits. It will limit itself based on the max power to and from the net.
The previous 2 videos cover my 3 phase upgrade. The single phase mention was a typo from the DNO. Not worrying hey. We only had 3.68 on single phase
Why lie? There are plenty of 50kW inverters being used on domestic properties in the UK.
Unless you’re in the industry, I doubt most people would see hybrid inverters that size at homes. Maybe some farms but that is arguable commercial. I should have clarified ‘hybrid’
If you were to do longer videos of this, I'd watch them - don't go scrimping out on us!!!
Out of interest.....is it purely about powering your house/reducing costs or are you going to be selling back (by charging to battery up overnight using cheap and selling back during the day). Don't recall hearing the plans for what you'll do with it yet.
Buying and selling. Becoming a small generator to support the grid by changing the usage curve, giving back when the grid needs it at peak times.
Ahh there is so much to this project. It would be a very long video missing steps. I don’t want people thinking this is easy 😂
Inverter warranty is therefore void.
All in the name of UA-cam
Mmmm, UA-cam 0Y electrician took a vast amount of skill along with a very experienced software tech to get his Tesla battery to work. Good luck
Thank you my friend
Oy / Cory were using a Jaguar battery, not Tesla. The Jag support is still being worked on. Tesla, Leaf, Kia, and a number of other batteries are all well supported.
Don't cut nails too short. :)
😂😂😂
But ev`s are safe they say ???????? so put it inside your house , maybe the loft , thats out the way if its as safe as they say then there`s no problem ..........
😂😂
There are cheaper ways to get a divorce 😄
😂😂😂😂😂
Looks fun but using equipment with an inherent fire risk outside of its designed configuration feels like a fire waiting to happen. For example, having the battery in a vertical configuration as opposed to a horizontal one will result in different thermal transfer dynamics. I’m glad I’m not your neighbour!
Got a 72kWh NMC used EV battery, it warms by only 3°C a day above ambient when charging. Needs no cooling, never gets to 30°C or above. Charge/discharge rates here are C5 max ! Heat is no issue
Hi. These considerations we have taken into account. So far, after hours of charging and discharging we have seen a max of 30c within the pack and can dynamically alter current rates depending on pack temperatures. We can also make use of the thermal water cooling built into the pack if needed. Meanwhile an off the shelf unmolested Givenergy battery we have seen temps of 75c being reported during force discharge.
@@TheOfficialBatteryMan As a young schoolboy and budding chemist, in the days before 9/11, you could go to the pharmacy or dry salter and pick up a variety of highly reactive elements and compounds. One day, I was preparing a highly exothermic reaction that I had performed many times before, it was one in which a metal catalyst was needed in order to start the reaction. This time, because it was cold outside I mixed the necessary reactants in the lounge and planned to take it outside before adding the catalyst, however, for a reason that is unknown to me, the reaction started even before the catalyst was added and a 5 foot flame shot out of the plastic pill bottle I was using to mix the reagents. I very nearly burnt the house down that day.
My long and boring point being, it is the unexpected and unanticipated that are the cause of most potentially hazardous accidents.
@@yp77738yp77739 O man. I couldn’t agree with you more. Thermite reaction?
@@TheOfficialBatteryMan I seem to remember it was potassium permanganate (which you used to be able to buy for antiseptic properties) and glycerine (making cake icing) and baking foil as the catalyst. I can only guess that one of the reactants contained an impurity or I was super careless. These were the days when most fabrics were polyester, as I was holding this massive firework with my bare hands and trying to unlock the back door I caught the curtains and nets and then the sofa on fire. I got outside and luckily there was a garden hose nearby. I had some explaining to do when my parents got home!
What's the reason for connecting to the grid verses staying self contained off grid. 👍
The grid is a massive asset if we have it. Its also impossible to make money from it without being on grid
We need the nitty-gritty!! Give us details Battery Man! 🦹🦸🔋
Next video looks at the brains that make it all go together
I think you're spot on and this system will be future proof. Im fairly convinced that being paid for solar export (i get 15p per kwh) during the daylight hours will stop in the coming years, we already pay wind to stop generating on very sunny days. Future IMHO is the ability to store energy on a micro scale and sell it back during peak demand. Whether thats self produced and stored or grid based from off peak, or in my case a combination of both.
I too have a Fox Inverter HA-10.5 selected in part due to it high DC battery input voltage range - Fox's own batteries are linked in series not parallel as most are, my 23kw Fox Cube sits around 240V DC fully charged. Yes Fox Cubes are expensive per kwh compared to a model 3 battery but if the future dictates more time shifting then a model 3 battery will find itself a new life on the side on my house too.
Question, does the Fox inverter required the double Lillygo to isolate the Tela ModBus from its own?
Keep up the good work, great channel 👍🏻
I wonder if we will see more price variations depending on time of day and grid demands. HV is more efficient. I bet your happy with your choice