I recently brought a dd1 to upgrade from a csl dd, I don’t understand the reason why companies keep releasing stronger wheel bases, I get they say you can feel the finer details but still I can’t use the dd1 any way near full power probably most I use is 12nm, so why do you need a 21nm wheel base over say the Moza 16nm
Excellent question. The answer is, you probably don't. But the reasoning is that to feel a massive short sharp jolt of vibration, you need power. especially if you want it to stand out above all the other forces. It's a think called dynamic range. The more range you have, the more accurately complex details can be translated. Imagine driving 200mph on a perfect surface and hitting a small stone. You'd get a tremendous thump but the steering wheel would barely move. That's an extreme example where power = realism and immersion. But for normal driving and control, 12Nm is the sweet spot for me.
@@dontbenice__ if a pro is clipping, it’s likely to be a settings issue. For example where one thing is muting or damping and another is trying to get 100% for that effect. Usually a conflict between the game and the wheel software. That being said, I only ever address clipping if it’s a real issue for me. Which it usually isn’t.
I came from a G29 and now after one week with the R16 I can basically run it at full force (or as close to full force without running into major clipping) It's perfect for most car, but since I picked up F4/F3/SFL/IndyCar in Iracing I see myself wanting higher forces. I'm gonna keep this for a year and then switch to an SC2 or Invicta to get 25/27Nm without running into clipping while able to run higher forces in high G cars and still feel detail. But I have to say, the first few days i didnt expect I would go any higher than 8nm peak or so, but now I pull sustained long corners at 10nm and I'm able to drive more consistent. This isn't true for GT cars, higher forces just become distracting and more exhausting than Formula cars. With formula cars I can see why you would want as much as possible. The lower wheel rotation in formula cars also makes it less likely that the forces will rip out your thumbs😅😅
To help guys who have GSV1 or RSV1 wheel rims - they do work with the new R16V2 and R21V2 bases. Sadly Laurence did not show that in the video. Those bases still have bluetooth communication unlike the R9V2 and R12. I have GSV1+R16V2 and this combo works great. I can feel better FFB and more power coming from R9V1.
Yep whenever I cover the compatibility I get a thousand questions and people ‘correcting’ me even though they’re wrong. So I steer clear of it unless I get specific questions. But thanks for sharing the info you have.
Yep I did the maths just after :) I didn’t want to get bogged down on it because someone would tell me I’m wrong no matter what. And I have reviewed stuff before where the claimed wattage was nonsense and nobody noticed 😅 I didn’t make a big deal of it :p
I hope at some point you'll be able to get your hands on the VRS stuff. I'm dying to know how the Direct Force Pro compares with Simagic, Asetek and Moza wheelbases.
40:25 i have 0 issues drifting with my asetek forte. i can make it feel however i want the settings are very simple. the difficulty in creating a drift setup comes from figuring out proper damper and gain values relative to your rim's physical inertia, and the process for that is independent from brand
Hi mate what game you're drifting on? I had plans on buying a La Prima but doubtful about it when Laurence said its weaker on rallying compared with road racing. I almost changed my mind to getting a Alpha Mini as it should be good on both rallying and road/circuit racing as i play both. DR2 and ACC.
@@catnipherb i drift on AC mainly. But i tried literally every sim that allows the rear diff to be locked, you can throw around the gt3s too. Go with the asetek. It has simucube software, they just renamed the settings. The ultra low latency/anti oscillation modes are awesome and you cant find them on other bases.
@@hayeduce sweet. I'll go with asetek then. What damper and gain value settings did you use for your wheel? I won't buy two steering wheels immediately. For now I'm prioritising asetek's formula wheel as I play acc more. Then buy a round rim/wheel at another date.
@@catnipherb i prefer to not run any damper, anti oscillation mode on 20%. Then if it still oscillates turn down/up ffb until you find a sweetspot. Also, dont use any gyro, nor the default nor the csp version
@@hayeduce Cheers. I'll remember your settings. I use 0% damper on my CSL Elite anyway and plan to put no damper on future wheel bases I buy. I don't like damper. I'll start saving up for the La Prima!
Hands off protection needs to be set just right. move it a bit down from stock GS or up and it will work like a charm. Inertia needs to match the weight of the wheel when not touched. I know exact positions for my wheels and they all work 100% of a time.
So i have the csl dd 8nm and iwant to upgrade to something with more FFb and details , u think the moza r16 is a good choice?. Thank you for your videos
Hey! As always, great content! I´m looking forward to upgrade my Thrustmaster T818. I have been looking at bases with arround 15 to 18 nm (Fanatec CSL DD+, Asetek Forte, Simagic Alpha, Simucube Sport) and have kinda of landed on the Moza R16 being the best option given that a Base + Wheel combo would be arround 300€ cheaper than the next cheaper option. I see a lot of people saying the Simagic or Asetek are a lot better and worth the stretch but the Moza is already maxing out my budget. Would you say it be a good option to go for the R16 or is it worth to spend 300-500€ more on the Simagic or Asetek?
Moza products are awesome I currently have a R12 and CRP pedals work all the other goodies from Moza shifters and handbrake is amazing planning on getting a R21 this summer Moza has impressed the crap out of me and Moza customer service is TOP notch I broke my USB port on my R12 it was my fault and Moza still fixed it for free I didn't even have to ask they just did it even knowing it was my fault I'll be a Moza customer for life after that experience
I wouldn’t be able to tell the difference in a blind test. And I would go a step further and say that anyone who reckons they CAN tell the difference between those 4 is talking nonsense :)
Hey Laurence , I'm on the fence between the Alpha U and the MOZA R21. Are both equal in terms of detail , smoothness and feel ? Just want to make sure that whatever I choose . that there are no regrets. BTW fantastic First Impressions video !!
For me, alpha u wins it. It has better mounting options, having side mount AND front mount options that are widely supported by rig manufacturers. It’s also a smaller form factor so it fits closer to your screens. The biggest problem with the simagic’s is the coil whine and the lack of a proper off switch. But I would recommend that you buy the one with the better steering wheel options for you. You won’t be disappointed either way.
@@LaurenceDusoswa Thank You for your quick reply. Glad to hear that the FFB is Excellent on both. Your Advice means I'm not worried about that now ! Thanks Again
@@LaurenceDusoswaI’ve got an alpha u and never experience any coil whine whatsoever. It’s possible you have a defective unit man! Might want to contact simagic about it. I know you got a very early version for review. It might have had a defect not present in the later ones. I know there has been an absolute ton of software upgrades on it too. I’m sure I’m not alone in being curious on what your current settings and opinion of it are. After you finish looking at the moza of course!
I bought this set up with the pedals included 3 weeks ago. I can only say I am very disappointed with the poor quality of the pedals. At £1900 for all 3 i expected high quality. Poor milling in the pedal deck means i cant mount the heel baffle where i want, and tonight i attempted to change out the elastomer brake resistance block. I cannot. Because all 3 replacements of differing resistance are about 2mm longer than the factory fitted one. That means you cant screw the brake pedal back together. Its just shoddy and I wish i'd gone with Asertek.
Remember you said the R12's ffb is weak compared to the La Prima's and Alpha Mini's? So would that mean the R21's ffb is also not strong compared to other 20 newton -metres wheelbases ?
No. It’s a different architecture to the r12. I have less concerns over the r21 but it must be said that feeling the differences gets harder the more power is available
Hi Laurence. I need help. Which bundle would you recommend: Asetek Forte base with Forte button box and Round Comfort+ Rim; Moza R16 V2 with RS V2; Simagic Alpha with GT Pro round alacantara wheel? Thanks!
@jassary97 honestly I can't really say because I never used fanetec but I got the r21 because it was one grand for a 21 NM motor seems good to me but I really won't to get the asetek Invicta I think moza good for the price but I do think brands like simucube simagic asetek are better but I would recommend moza over fanatec so to fanatec shipping issues if u by a mirco center u can get the moza and if u don't like it u get 15 days to return it
I wonder why they go with their own front mounting pattern instead of following what is already out there. Now you have to add the cost of their mount to your decision.
@@bratosin1 yeah I ended up watching it, made a comment on that video about the simsonn sc 1.5 that I Heard about recently since no one has seemed to have bought it or tested it, was wondering if boosted has looked into it.
Simagic used to be ahead alot. Now with the new moza v2 bases and v2 wheelrims, i think the differences are very minor. You should choose the ecosystem you prefer, that has the better wheels for you for example. I would go with the simagic alpha + gt neo, or the r16v2 + gs v2p
@@NWA_1919 was looking at it and it seemed for the price point I was looking at that VRS would be the better option, though I don't really have the space for a aluminum rig so I would turn down the force feedback. But I did see that you can get an NRG style quick release and use the simmagic or Moza wheels on it which would be the most cost effective solution and allow for a clean upgrade path in any direction. Kind of what I am thinking atm.
@@vortex3247 what kind of rig you running? These high end wheelbases do need at least a decent rig to support them. I'm running a NLR f-gt, and it handles the r16v2 fine. I haven't heard of vrs so can't comment anything regarding their gear.
The wheel and the hands you seen on the screen should be 1:1 to the real wheel on your hand or very close size , how do you drive like this with that giant oversized car ?? Very odd for me
I don't quite understand why Moza went for the fancy design for thie high end model. I'd rather expect them to do it for low end model, and to go for industrial design for the high end model. Anyway, my R5 looks stunning with the boxy design that I like.
I had an r9 and loved it. I was honestly not fan of the r16/21 design on photo. But in real life I actually found in love with my r21 v2. It's not as fancy as you think, it's very clean but also less boring
Tbh i much prefer the fact that moza has done something personal with the design of the r16 and 21. The r16 looks really nice on my rig, not just an industrial machine like all the rest of the high end wheelbases do
Moza screws up every single wheel ABS should always be on the left side of the wheel like your actual brake pedal!! TC should be on the right side of the wheel to go with the actual gas pedal!! Idk how a company miss labels something so easy in every wheel they release.
I was unaware of that rule :) most brands allow you to do the stickers yourself. I’ve probably reviewed 30+ steering wheels and have never heard of that 😂
I spent a ton of time looking for "standards" for button placement on race wheels but was unable to find any real traditions or rules I put TC on the left so the right hand can focus on upshifting, and ABS on the right so the left hand can be primed for downshifting
This has to be one of the most uninformed troll comments I have ever read. There is no rule that ABS should always be on the left and T/C on the right. There are quite a lot of real life race cars that have the knob placement exactly the same way as Moza has it on their wheels or completely different and unique. Stop spreading bs just because you're misinformed...
I don't understand why anyone including muscle bound Neanderthals would want more than 16-NM they must have a great insurance policy or medical plan 🤣😅😀👍🙂
You think I’m in it for free stuff? I don’t know if I would have built the reputation that I have if that was the case. I’m not a kid. I have a good 9-5 corporate job. I can buy the stuff I want. I only review for fun. I don’t sell the hardware after. Feel free to look up any reviews that I’ve done of hardware you own. I guarantee it’s not all positive. And finally, as per the description: this is not a review. Long term review is in the works. This is just a first impressions video. Hope that addresses your skepticism.
You are so right! They will say anything when they get sent free shit over and over 😂😂😂 but some equipment and review it maybe will trust you! Basically a rip of channel of boostedmedia filled with garbage lies for views and $$$
What your long term review after using 1-2weeks 😂😂😂 love how you review channels say long term reviews and the reviews are a month after getting the base lol that’s not long term at all!
@@LaurenceDusoswa I think you took my comment the wrong way, I did finish it with nice review. I didn't want you to feel offended or attacked, just giving my opinion. Because you are comparing it too many other brands out there. You really seem to like the Moza ecosystem, I'm happy for you. Although they are still a "new" players in the sim racing world, and getting alot of positive feedback. There's issues happening with their products and instead of taking accountability, they censor, ban, erase messages from the people affected with the issues. Looks a little shady in my opinion. Also would love a long term review whenever you can, what's up with the sudden ffb drop after a certain amount of time, did this occur to you? Again, my message was in no way towards offending you. Have a great day, keep up the good work.
Definitely wouldn’t go moza! Simagic is miles ahead and just as good as simucube! You review channels need to quit lying about simucube being what people need! Simucube has nothing that stands out of any other wheelbase at this point besides the highest price and there only other items are overpriced wheels that look like shit!
Hahaha you have probably never seen me answer the simucube debate before if you think I’m putting simucube on a pedestal above its competition. But it wouldn’t be the first time you’ve mistaken your assumptions for my opinions :)
Meanwhile your title says cheap alternatives to simucube and Asetek 🤣 so not an assumption 😂 called saying how I see it why don’t you talk about all moza bs like fanatec mess? Moza takes for ever to ship with high shipping cost! And the r9 were known to over heat and moza solution to customers was put a fan blowing on the base!!! That’s the only reason there is a r9 v2 because they were selling bunk ass bullshit. And you obviously don’t get people can say what the fuck the want to and that your not right just because you review shit 😂 go buy some equipment and I’ll trust a review who trust people like you that get free shit to test and send back 😂 you guys are jokes! At least I pay for all my gear and my reviews are honest not for a pay check like you 😂😂😂
@@LaurenceDusoswaall you’re is a grown adult who cries all the time when people comment! Meanwhile you don’t answer comment for people actually asking questions 😂 but take your time when someone says something you don’t agree with.
Then I would say you smear Moza and praise Simagic so much because Simagic paid you handsomely. I have both Ultimate and R21 and I love them both. And here Ultimate is $80 cheaper than R21 v2.
And why don’t you actually mention how moza screwed you with using there old wheels on v2 bases! That they don’t work and you would also have to upgrade your rim and base not just your base! So ya moza is miles behind competitors even fanatec lets you use old wheels 😂
That's because they do work on the R16/R21 V1. Just not on the R3 / R5 / R9 V1. Also on the R16 and R21 V2 bases all rims will work, without exceptions. Got a big time Moza hater here, huh?
I don't know why there aren't any other proper R21 V2 reviews. This one is one of the best reviews. Thanks for sharing.
Long term review incoming too
Went from a G923 to Simucube 2 Pro. Insane upgrade. These look great too. Once you’ve tried direct drive there’s no going back.
Who among us couldn’t use a little shaft extension?
I think MOZA RACING are trying to tell me something...
Unfortunately the colour doesn't match personally.
Why should I use that?
Just approved it for you on the Facebook Community page🎉
Thanks mate!!!
Good video! The ffb on this base is incredible if you take the time to fine tune the settings. The equalizer curve is a game changer.
It’s handy. Not completely accurate across sims but very good to get simple results
Look how big that shaft is!!
Thanks for noticing
That's what she said.
I had to do it.
It is extra extra long
I recently brought a dd1 to upgrade from a csl dd, I don’t understand the reason why companies keep releasing stronger wheel bases, I get they say you can feel the finer details but still I can’t use the dd1 any way near full power probably most I use is 12nm, so why do you need a 21nm wheel base over say the Moza 16nm
Excellent question. The answer is, you probably don't. But the reasoning is that to feel a massive short sharp jolt of vibration, you need power. especially if you want it to stand out above all the other forces. It's a think called dynamic range. The more range you have, the more accurately complex details can be translated. Imagine driving 200mph on a perfect surface and hitting a small stone. You'd get a tremendous thump but the steering wheel would barely move. That's an extreme example where power = realism and immersion. But for normal driving and control, 12Nm is the sweet spot for me.
I just bought a simucube 2 pro last week and it clipped twice already. So I guess that’s why.
Totally depends how much ffb you are using.
@@dontbenice__ if a pro is clipping, it’s likely to be a settings issue. For example where one thing is muting or damping and another is trying to get 100% for that effect. Usually a conflict between the game and the wheel software. That being said, I only ever address clipping if it’s a real issue for me. Which it usually isn’t.
@@LaurenceDusoswa Ah nice to know! Just noticed the clipping sound of the base when I was running over an sausage curb.
I came from a G29 and now after one week with the R16 I can basically run it at full force (or as close to full force without running into major clipping)
It's perfect for most car, but since I picked up F4/F3/SFL/IndyCar in Iracing I see myself wanting higher forces. I'm gonna keep this for a year and then switch to an SC2 or Invicta to get 25/27Nm without running into clipping while able to run higher forces in high G cars and still feel detail.
But I have to say, the first few days i didnt expect I would go any higher than 8nm peak or so, but now I pull sustained long corners at 10nm and I'm able to drive more consistent.
This isn't true for GT cars, higher forces just become distracting and more exhausting than Formula cars. With formula cars I can see why you would want as much as possible. The lower wheel rotation in formula cars also makes it less likely that the forces will rip out your thumbs😅😅
To help guys who have GSV1 or RSV1 wheel rims - they do work with the new R16V2 and R21V2 bases. Sadly Laurence did not show that in the video. Those bases still have bluetooth communication unlike the R9V2 and R12. I have GSV1+R16V2 and this combo works great. I can feel better FFB and more power coming from R9V1.
Very good point. I also just got an R21 v2 and I'm happy to be able to use my "old" GS and RS v1s
Yep whenever I cover the compatibility I get a thousand questions and people ‘correcting’ me even though they’re wrong. So I steer clear of it unless I get specific questions. But thanks for sharing the info you have.
Power supply is 479W 36V multiplied by 13.3A
Yep I did the maths just after :) I didn’t want to get bogged down on it because someone would tell me I’m wrong no matter what. And I have reviewed stuff before where the claimed wattage was nonsense and nobody noticed 😅 I didn’t make a big deal of it :p
I hope at some point you'll be able to get your hands on the VRS stuff. I'm dying to know how the Direct Force Pro compares with Simagic, Asetek and Moza wheelbases.
40:25 i have 0 issues drifting with my asetek forte. i can make it feel however i want the settings are very simple. the difficulty in creating a drift setup comes from figuring out proper damper and gain values relative to your rim's physical inertia, and the process for that is independent from brand
Hi mate what game you're drifting on? I had plans on buying a La Prima but doubtful about it when Laurence said its weaker on rallying compared with road racing. I almost changed my mind to getting a Alpha Mini as it should be good on both rallying and road/circuit racing as i play both. DR2 and ACC.
@@catnipherb i drift on AC mainly. But i tried literally every sim that allows the rear diff to be locked, you can throw around the gt3s too. Go with the asetek. It has simucube software, they just renamed the settings. The ultra low latency/anti oscillation modes are awesome and you cant find them on other bases.
@@hayeduce sweet. I'll go with asetek then. What damper and gain value settings did you use for your wheel? I won't buy two steering wheels immediately. For now I'm prioritising asetek's formula wheel as I play acc more. Then buy a round rim/wheel at another date.
@@catnipherb i prefer to not run any damper, anti oscillation mode on 20%. Then if it still oscillates turn down/up ffb until you find a sweetspot. Also, dont use any gyro, nor the default nor the csp version
@@hayeduce Cheers. I'll remember your settings. I use 0% damper on my CSL Elite anyway and plan to put no damper on future wheel bases I buy. I don't like damper. I'll start saving up for the La Prima!
I noticed the led's on the GS V2 wheel are different than the V1
Did you get any rattling and shaking with the shaft extension? Mine on an R9 ratlles horribly and I'm wondering if it is only mine.
Being honest, I haven’t spent time with it yet
i had to turn off hands off in the settings and havent had the random shaking. idk what it was supposed to do anyway
Hey Laurence , What Car and track combo do you use in Assetto Corsa for testing purposes ?
It’s the formula agile at donington international :)
Hands off protection needs to be set just right. move it a bit down from stock GS or up and it will work like a charm. Inertia needs to match the weight of the wheel when not touched. I know exact positions for my wheels and they all work 100% of a time.
So i have the csl dd 8nm and iwant to upgrade to something with more FFb and details , u think the moza r16 is a good choice?. Thank you for your videos
The r16 is really good yeah. If you like the moza rims and eco system, it’s a great buy
Hey! As always, great content!
I´m looking forward to upgrade my Thrustmaster T818. I have been looking at bases with arround 15 to 18 nm (Fanatec CSL DD+, Asetek Forte, Simagic Alpha, Simucube Sport) and have kinda of landed on the Moza R16 being the best option given that a Base + Wheel combo would be arround 300€ cheaper than the next cheaper option.
I see a lot of people saying the Simagic or Asetek are a lot better and worth the stretch but the Moza is already maxing out my budget.
Would you say it be a good option to go for the R16 or is it worth to spend 300-500€ more on the Simagic or Asetek?
Nah. Buy the moza. I would struggle to tell the difference in a blind test and I have a tonne of time with all of those devices.
@@LaurenceDusoswa Thanks a lot for the reply!! I'll probably get the Moza then.
Moza products are awesome I currently have a R12 and CRP pedals work all the other goodies from Moza shifters and handbrake is amazing planning on getting a R21 this summer Moza has impressed the crap out of me and Moza customer service is TOP notch I broke my USB port on my R12 it was my fault and Moza still fixed it for free I didn't even have to ask they just did it even knowing it was my fault I'll be a Moza customer for life after that experience
So in other words, you think the R21 V2, Simagic Alpha U, Asetek Invicta and Simucube SC2 Pro are in the same league now FFB-wise and in general?
I wouldn’t be able to tell the difference in a blind test. And I would go a step further and say that anyone who reckons they CAN tell the difference between those 4 is talking nonsense :)
@@LaurenceDusoswa Thanks for the clear as day answer, Laurence! Great content as always. :)
Hey Laurence , I'm on the fence between the Alpha U and the MOZA R21. Are both equal in terms of detail , smoothness and feel ? Just want to make sure that whatever I choose . that there are no regrets. BTW fantastic First Impressions video !!
For me, alpha u wins it. It has better mounting options, having side mount AND front mount options that are widely supported by rig manufacturers. It’s also a smaller form factor so it fits closer to your screens. The biggest problem with the simagic’s is the coil whine and the lack of a proper off switch. But I would recommend that you buy the one with the better steering wheel options for you. You won’t be disappointed either way.
@@LaurenceDusoswa Thank You for your quick reply. Glad to hear that the FFB is Excellent on both. Your Advice means I'm not worried about that now ! Thanks Again
@@LaurenceDusoswaI’ve got an alpha u and never experience any coil whine whatsoever. It’s possible you have a defective unit man! Might want to contact simagic about it. I know you got a very early version for review. It might have had a defect not present in the later ones. I know there has been an absolute ton of software upgrades on it too. I’m sure I’m not alone in being curious on what your current settings and opinion of it are. After you finish looking at the moza of course!
Alpha U is amazing and mounting options just make it a lot easier to work with. I prefer the industrial look to it as well.
Watch Darth Snape's video, he compares Alpha and R12 side by side. I'm taking Simagic if I were going shopping.
I bought this set up with the pedals included 3 weeks ago.
I can only say I am very disappointed with the poor quality of the pedals.
At £1900 for all 3 i expected high quality.
Poor milling in the pedal deck means i cant mount the heel baffle where i want, and tonight i attempted to change out the elastomer brake resistance block.
I cannot.
Because all 3 replacements of differing resistance are about 2mm longer than the factory fitted one.
That means you cant screw the brake pedal back together.
Its just shoddy and I wish i'd gone with Asertek.
The pedals are something I have used but not reviewed and I haven’t been impressed by the pedals unfortunately.
You have to brake to enable hand protection
Remember you said the R12's ffb is weak compared to the La Prima's and Alpha Mini's? So would that mean the R21's ffb is also not strong compared to other 20 newton -metres wheelbases ?
No. It’s a different architecture to the r12. I have less concerns over the r21 but it must be said that feeling the differences gets harder the more power is available
Hi Laurence. I need help. Which bundle would you recommend: Asetek Forte base with Forte button box and Round Comfort+ Rim; Moza R16 V2 with RS V2; Simagic Alpha with GT Pro round alacantara wheel? Thanks!
Is this Moza r21 wheelbase a good replacement over fanatec podium dd1?
I’ve never reviewed the DD1. But I do think it’s a high quality piece of kit
Crazy i just got me a r21 from micro center i love it after having a r9 the difference is insane
Would you recommend the r21 over the fanatec dd2 ?
@jassary97 honestly I can't really say because I never used fanetec but I got the r21 because it was one grand for a 21 NM motor seems good to me but I really won't to get the asetek Invicta I think moza good for the price but I do think brands like simucube simagic asetek are better but I would recommend moza over fanatec so to fanatec shipping issues if u by a mirco center u can get the moza and if u don't like it u get 15 days to return it
I wonder why they go with their own front mounting pattern instead of following what is already out there. Now you have to add the cost of their mount to your decision.
100%. I think it’s because front mounting was an afterthought. If they were to go with the normal pattern they would have to do a major redesign.
I just bought the R16 v2 base, do you think it's as good, just 5 nm less?
The r16 is great. It’s the same architecture as the r21 and it’s great. You probably can’t imagine anyone needing any more than the r16.
Hi, would you get R12 or Asetek la prima 12hm ? Cheers James
La Prima no question.
Just really need a simmagic vs Moza comparison, been researching for months and can never really point myself in what direction I want to go.
Just yesterday boostedmedia made a 50min long video about this topic
@@bratosin1 yeah I ended up watching it, made a comment on that video about the simsonn sc 1.5 that I Heard about recently since no one has seemed to have bought it or tested it, was wondering if boosted has looked into it.
Simagic used to be ahead alot. Now with the new moza v2 bases and v2 wheelrims, i think the differences are very minor. You should choose the ecosystem you prefer, that has the better wheels for you for example. I would go with the simagic alpha + gt neo, or the r16v2 + gs v2p
@@NWA_1919 was looking at it and it seemed for the price point I was looking at that VRS would be the better option, though I don't really have the space for a aluminum rig so I would turn down the force feedback. But I did see that you can get an NRG style quick release and use the simmagic or Moza wheels on it which would be the most cost effective solution and allow for a clean upgrade path in any direction. Kind of what I am thinking atm.
@@vortex3247 what kind of rig you running? These high end wheelbases do need at least a decent rig to support them. I'm running a NLR f-gt, and it handles the r16v2 fine. I haven't heard of vrs so can't comment anything regarding their gear.
The wheel and the hands you seen on the screen should be 1:1 to the real wheel on your hand or very close size , how do you drive like this with that giant oversized car ?? Very odd for me
Can’t go
Wrong with “shaft extension”
Guaranteed #1 video
I don't quite understand why Moza went for the fancy design for thie high end model. I'd rather expect them to do it for low end model, and to go for industrial design for the high end model.
Anyway, my R5 looks stunning with the boxy design that I like.
Yep I prefer the boxy styling too.
I had an r9 and loved it. I was honestly not fan of the r16/21 design on photo. But in real life I actually found in love with my r21 v2. It's not as fancy as you think, it's very clean but also less boring
Tbh i much prefer the fact that moza has done something personal with the design of the r16 and 21. The r16 looks really nice on my rig, not just an industrial machine like all the rest of the high end wheelbases do
!!! its not the same as fanatec... there is a slight difference and if you drilled the holes just right, it wont work on the other brand
I haven't noticed the difference. maybe there's just a lot of tolerance in my wheel deck
@@LaurenceDusoswa yeah i had to learn the hard way haha
❤
Hey bruh
Oh man that thing will rip your arms off 😂👍🙂
Moza ffb is to robotic to me. It gives the feeling of detail but for me not the right kind of details.
The FFB can be lacking slightly at times but is generally more than satisfactory for me
Why would even anyone buy moza if there is simagic?
Supply. Pricing. Styling preference. Availability. It’s good to have the choice.
Which is the holding l torque of R21?(Not peak torque)
Moza screws up every single wheel
ABS should always be on the left side of the wheel like your actual brake pedal!!
TC should be on the right side of the wheel to go with the actual gas pedal!!
Idk how a company miss labels something so easy in every wheel they release.
I was unaware of that rule :) most brands allow you to do the stickers yourself. I’ve probably reviewed 30+ steering wheels and have never heard of that 😂
I spent a ton of time looking for "standards" for button placement on race wheels but was unable to find any real traditions or rules
I put TC on the left so the right hand can focus on upshifting, and ABS on the right so the left hand can be primed for downshifting
This has to be one of the most uninformed troll comments I have ever read. There is no rule that ABS should always be on the left and T/C on the right. There are quite a lot of real life race cars that have the knob placement exactly the same way as Moza has it on their wheels or completely different and unique. Stop spreading bs just because you're misinformed...
@@LaurenceDusoswaobviously you have never looked at wheel before when reviewing them! Go look at simagic wheels and other companies
480 watts...ish
More torque doesnt equal higher quality.
I don't understand why anyone including muscle bound Neanderthals would want more than 16-NM they must have a great insurance policy or medical plan 🤣😅😀👍🙂
I would probably praise a company that gave me stuff also!! 😅😂 Nice review
You think I’m in it for free stuff? I don’t know if I would have built the reputation that I have if that was the case. I’m not a kid. I have a good 9-5 corporate job. I can buy the stuff I want. I only review for fun. I don’t sell the hardware after. Feel free to look up any reviews that I’ve done of hardware you own. I guarantee it’s not all positive.
And finally, as per the description: this is not a review. Long term review is in the works. This is just a first impressions video.
Hope that addresses your skepticism.
You are so right! They will say anything when they get sent free shit over and over 😂😂😂 but some equipment and review it maybe will trust you! Basically a rip of channel of boostedmedia filled with garbage lies for views and $$$
What your long term review after using 1-2weeks 😂😂😂 love how you review channels say long term reviews and the reviews are a month after getting the base lol that’s not long term at all!
@@LaurenceDusoswa I think you took my comment the wrong way, I did finish it with nice review. I didn't want you to feel offended or attacked, just giving my opinion. Because you are comparing it too many other brands out there. You really seem to like the Moza ecosystem, I'm happy for you. Although they are still a "new" players in the sim racing world, and getting alot of positive feedback. There's issues happening with their products and instead of taking accountability, they censor, ban, erase messages from the people affected with the issues. Looks a little shady in my opinion. Also would love a long term review whenever you can, what's up with the sudden ffb drop after a certain amount of time, did this occur to you? Again, my message was in no way towards offending you. Have a great day, keep up the good work.
@@LaurenceDusoswaalso have to admit the esthetic look of it, is out of the other direct drive league. Soooo much better! ❤
36Vх13,5A=486W This is simple math, right from the 9th grade.
insane crap
Definitely wouldn’t go moza! Simagic is miles ahead and just as good as simucube! You review channels need to quit lying about simucube being what people need! Simucube has nothing that stands out of any other wheelbase at this point besides the highest price and there only other items are overpriced wheels that look like shit!
Hahaha you have probably never seen me answer the simucube debate before if you think I’m putting simucube on a pedestal above its competition. But it wouldn’t be the first time you’ve mistaken your assumptions for my opinions :)
Meanwhile your title says cheap alternatives to simucube and Asetek 🤣 so not an assumption 😂 called saying how I see it why don’t you talk about all moza bs like fanatec mess? Moza takes for ever to ship with high shipping cost! And the r9 were known to over heat and moza solution to customers was put a fan blowing on the base!!! That’s the only reason there is a r9 v2 because they were selling bunk ass bullshit. And you obviously don’t get people can say what the fuck the want to and that your not right just because you review shit 😂 go buy some equipment and I’ll trust a review who trust people like you that get free shit to test and send back 😂 you guys are jokes! At least I pay for all my gear and my reviews are honest not for a pay check like you 😂😂😂
@@LaurenceDusoswaall you’re is a grown adult who cries all the time when people comment! Meanwhile you don’t answer comment for people actually asking questions 😂 but take your time when someone says something you don’t agree with.
Then I would say you smear Moza and praise Simagic so much because Simagic paid you handsomely. I have both Ultimate and R21 and I love them both. And here Ultimate is $80 cheaper than R21 v2.
And why don’t you actually mention how moza screwed you with using there old wheels on v2 bases! That they don’t work and you would also have to upgrade your rim and base not just your base! So ya moza is miles behind competitors even fanatec lets you use old wheels 😂
That's because they do work on the R16/R21 V1. Just not on the R3 / R5 / R9 V1. Also on the R16 and R21 V2 bases all rims will work, without exceptions. Got a big time Moza hater here, huh?
What did Moza do to you