As a guy who raced MTB’s when Steel was replaced by Alloy we all noticed very very quickly how easy alloy broke vs steel, I had multiple high end alloy bikes from Yeti Klein Manitou and Cannonade, I had brake lever simple dent or tear the top tube if crashed, stays fracture from pedal forces vs the vibration and hits at the rear, head tubes crack, in fact the alloy ended so thin in places you could feel it deflecting with your thumb etc. original carbon frames while only 100 to 200 grams less vs the high end alloy was actually way way stronger and even took impact well, but that’s when a carbon frame was 1200 to 1400 grams, alloy 1300 to 1700 and steel 1600 to 2000 grams on average, the frames had a little more impact protection vs the modern high module carbon, that is stronger but is then used in far thinner forms meaning they simply crack easily when struck. I like carbon as you can repair if easily.
Totally. Everyone I know who doesn't have them is either riding a MTB or hardly rides in wet roads. What trashes a bike is not the mudguards or the winter road riding, it's the lack of maintenance. I ride over 7000k/year in all weathers. A durable chain lasts me over 6000k and I get at least 3 chains per cassette. I just up the maintenance in grimy conditions.
Exactly a bike with mudguards is more likely to be a winter beater / commuting bike so won't be getting the same tlc. When I commuted every day by bike you would ride in on salted roads in the winter leaving your bike to sit at work then ride home where if it was lucky it would get a quick wash off and oil in the week and a proper wash off at the weekend as by the time I got home in the week it was often late.
I agree, don't kill mechanical but I do also enjoy electric. It has a lot of small niceties that make it a joy to have on my bike. None of them make me faster but I like having it.
Yes, I dont get how tiny buttons are easier to use with gloves than triggers or thumb shifters. Yeah, thumb shifters are still a thing where winter riding means sub zero temps. We arent all so precious we head for the trainer. Here I mountain bike in the rain, mud, snow, whatever. These guys are roadie divas, Nick much more so than the others.
+1. There are 32T and 34T 8-speed cassettes, too. And if disc brakes are your thing, Growtac Equal calipers or Paul Klampers are some of the best around
Aluminium is rather excellent material for many reasons. The case for its low fatigue life expectancy is dependent on many factors. For instance, an airplane will load up its structural frame during take off and landing (mostly landing). If it is flown 4 times a day, that would be eight cycles a day which translates to 2980 cycles a year. In addition, there are stresses being applied during flight but it's mostly concentrated at around the wing attachment structure, which is localized and that's where the flight hours comes in to figure out the service life of the plane (for small ones around 20,000). The major difference between airplanes and bicycles make of Aluminium alloys is that bikes are inherently loaded more often than airplanes. Every pothole, crack on the road, bunny hop counts as a load cycle. In addition, if you're truly powerful rider that does sprint out of saddle up every single hill and town line, while living in a rather pothole-ridden streets then you're also adding more "flight hours" on your frame. The notion that a frame can only last for five years or so and so destroys a frame every couple years is rather anecdotal and not necessarily true. Afterall, many track bikes are still being made out of Aluminium and have lived a harsh life of track cycling crashes and generally more powerful riders. So in my opinion, which is not truly mine as I have read on the matter, studied engineering, have done a basic research on the subject matter, and have my own anecdotal experience; as is the case with any other material, the reason for Aluminium alloy frames to get "soft" or crack due to fatigue is either poor quality of manufacturing to begin with or poor maintenance. Even looking up the fatigue curves of Titanium alloys, you would come across the same issue that Aluminium alloys have, which is the fact that both materials have Fatigue limit as opposed to Steel which has an endurance limit. Granted Titanium has higher load cycles before reaching its fatigue limit; alas, Titanium alloys are not immune to fatigue cracks. In conclusion, there is nothing wrong with well manufactured and well designed Aluminium bike frame, as long as it's well maintained. On the maintenance front, if there is bare metal showing due to rubbing of cables, shoes, ... then it's prudent to clean and re-coat it to avoid exposing the bare metal to the atmosphere where oxidation would increase crack propagation (even micro level cracks that are not perceptible to naked eye).
A very interesting comment. Aeroplanes are critically stressed in rather more regions than suggested above. Aluminium and titanium do indeed have a finite fatique limit. It would be very interesting to be able to gather data on the instances of failures in the varying materials, but as its unlikely there is any practical reporting system in existence it would be a gargantuan task. We could narrow it down though and ask "has anyone had a problem of cracking in a Ti frame?". Before recoating the bare aluminium (rub mark) on your frame, polish it first to remove scratches etc then reprotect.
@@emmabird9745 indeed airplanes are loaded in various regions; alas, listing how an airplane structure is loaded wasn't my top priority. As for polishing the bare metal before coating it, I thought that would be rather obvious as you need to prepare any surface before applying most coatings.
You obviously have limited experience with using aluminium frames in adverse circumstances (winter, rain, cold). I have to check / rebuilt the BB area and head tube area to make sure every thing is clean and not getting corroded, and after only so many cycles, taking out wheels, pushing in the BB, thightening the headset,... the aluminium will have been fatigued and tolerances get worse (e.g. on the headset, BB threading less and less holding the BB into place at correct torque settings), the steel QR bites into the alu dropouts a bit deeper (up until the point the dish of the wheel is slightly more to the RD and in some frames, the chain is starting to touch the rear fork / dropout area in the smallest cog), etcetera.
@@l.d.t.6327 Hi. I think what you are talking about here, though perfectly valid, is not what a fatigue engineer would class as metal fatigue (repeated cyclic stress). Rather it would be classified as "wear and tear" or "corrosion damage". In itself it would restrict the frame life, and unchecked make any subsequent fatiguing more serious. I would agree with you that this is the more serious aspect to winter maintenance.
At least Nic started with the fact he's no expert in mudguards. No shit. Maybe should let the people who know what they're talking about, from experience, do the talking on that one.
Fenders (sorry, I am Canadian) are a MUST for anyone commuting in Vancouver. Water and grit run down along the fenders and protect the bottom braket and drivetrain.
I got the SKS Raceblades for my commuting roadbike (28mm tyres, rimbrakes) and it was by far the best purchase I did last year. I even stopped needing to use pants for the rain, and when it gets warmer I can take them out in a matter of seconds. I can totally recommend them
Wishing Francis and his family all the best. As for the pod cast, I am loving it. Nick needs to be a regular and I would love to see Bike fit James on the pod cast as well. One question for Nick, I'm in Canada and as you know it gets super cold, its -29C today with -44c wind chill today, will tubeless sealant work?
Tubeless sealants are water based and will work poorly in the cold unless they add extra propylene glycol as an antifreeze. Orange Seal makes a winter sealant like that, or you can DIY.
Thanks for good content, I often listen to your pod while riding. It would be cool, as a Finn who rides in the winter even at 20 degrees below zero, to have an episode (perhaps with a guest with experience riding in similar conditions) about proper winter cycling :)
I ride my Cube Nuroad (gravel) with Shimano Claris 8-speed and mechanical discs. The stuff just works and is durable. When Spring arrives I’ll grab my Tarmac SL6 💨
Rohloff with gates carbon belt is the ultimate winter drive train set-up. I have a steel tout terrain with, 60mm wide tires on 650b wheels with mud guards...I wash it once a year! PERFECT 👌
I'm sorry but I disagree with the comments regarding the mudguards. Yes a bike will still get dirty but I don't..... Yes my components still need a wash..... But I don't..... I just completed a 91 mile ride in UK winter and it chucked it down for last 30 miles..... Even then I was so appreciative of my mudguards as I was cycling through muddy roadside rivers mile after mile
I love when you guys bring Nic. He is honest, direct and highly opinionated. I may agree or disagree with what he says but he always have a clear point of view with valid arguments. PS: An idea for under/over or love/kill: 3D printed saddles, internal cable routing, integrated cockpits (stem+handlebar).
My ideal year-round bike is a steel gravel frame w/ Microshift Sword 10-speed mechanical, Growtac Equal calipers, Redshift stem, 700c wheels & ~45mm tires [I live in the SF Bay Area]
Yeah, as a Cdn/Brit Dual, I almost choked when that was stated. Even compared to northern Europe, the UK's weather is considered "temperate". Mind you, the term "insulation" is a bit of a quandary to many Brits.
@@evanthomas9680I'd rather ride in the cold and dry than in a torrential downpour when it's 5⁰c above. Absolutely soul destroying, can't keep dry no matter what. At least in sub -5⁰c I can wrap up and manage my layering to stop sweating out.
Lots of fun listening to these complaints from Moscow at -20 C ))) By the way, if anyone's interested - the ultimate best bike for a real winter with lots of snow is a fatbike.
Couple of things on the ideal winter bike: 6-11 speed chains have the same INTERNAL width... you can use an 11 speed chain on a six speed bike.... I for instance upgraded a walmart bike with 1x8 to 1x11 and am running the original cranks. When chains got thinner it was thickness of the metal used on the plates, not the gaps between them. The sprockets didn't get thinner they just got closer together. As to running older stuff on a modern bike: most wheels are still compatible with HG. That means any 6-11 speed setup will still work. You can even run 12 speed on HG. I have a 2009 Stumpjumper FSR which is running Sram GX Eagle AXS on the original 26 inch wheels. It is using an NX 11-50 cassette, which was the cheapest eagle casette when I got it, but now you can get it in SX. If you are willing to build a mullet bike... 1x eagle components with blips paired to TRP hydraulic brakes... Or you can just go full gravel components. Or if you want to run hydrualic brakes with 6 speed brifters, you can use something like the giant conduct system, which uses very very short cables to actuate the hydraulic master cylinder. Giant came up with this (I think it was actually TRP) to allow hydraulic brakes with Tiagra, before native hydraulic tiagra was available. I upgraded my older Defy to Tiagra hydraulic, and did not really notice a difference in feel or power, but there was a big difference in weight. If you want to pay for shipping and give me a shout out, I would be quite happy to donate the system for testing. Finally I hear tell that there is a new Chinese electronic system that lets you define the number of sprockets, and then lets you individually index each gear... so there is that. The standards for derailleur mounting are compatible from 2024 back (other than Sram Transmission). There are only really 2 disc brake mount standards. Modern bikes will work fine with ancient components, and vice versa
Cheap’ish Gravel bike with 1x mechanical, mudguards, hydraulic disc brakes & 700x35-45 studded tyres. That's my setup for winter cycling in Norway. Usually between -5 and -20'ish degrees between November and March; no need for fancy stuff in those conditions.
Really enjoyed the show - thank you for sharing all the great information. I will suggest no need to worry much in regards to energy consumption charging SRAM battery packs. I just got my hands on AXS after years of resisting (new gravel bike) and am so pleased I will convert my old MTB to electric; the shifts are so fast and accurate. Reference the battery capacity as 2.2 watt hours or 7,920 joules. Boiling 1 liter of water requires 330,536 joules so it is likely afternoon tea consumption will outpace several months of riding. Keep up the good work!
+1 for the Teravail Ramparts, I run them 38c for commuting in Canadian winter (albeit a Toronto winter, which is more welcoming), and I feel super confident on them.
I live in Southern California so winter isn’t a huge issue but I still ride a titanium gravel bike with 35mm tires year round. If I lived in a place with real winter weather I might go with knobby tires in winter. I assemble my bikes with Morgan Blue aqua proof paste on anything that’s threaded or press fit. This stuff is impervious to anything weather can throw at it including salt! I have GRX one by mechanical. With cold hands there’s no issue with shifting. Panaracer gravel kings are tough as nails and come in an all slick tread version. I like the Gavel King SS with a semi slick center and knobby shoulders. These would be ideal winter tires. Traction is great.
Like the mics, clear and loud. Like her voice and the rundown of program. Well researched fair comments. Expect to see this channel flourish much longer. Keep up the good work. Thumbs up.
Producer Emily... if you happen to like Specialized saddles, the women's versions have a "cutout" which is sealed at the bottom. Basically any of the Mimic saddles.
Great show. Talking about bike mugging. Recalled an incident in 1994 in Manchester. A course mate riding through a rough area to the uni , someone stood in front of him, grabbed the handlebars and shoved him off the bike and stole it. Tbh, for as long as I've been riding in Malaysia, and nowadays with these very expensive bikes, we've never heard any single incident of this yet. Like you said, it's probably a UK thing.
Frame bags are the key (about keeping tools on your winter bike). A waterproof frame bag will keep everything dry, keep your frame pump in mint condition and will also have space to carry snacks.
I've just got a Planet X Mulo (frame on sale for £99 currently) as I can't be bothered maintaining gears or cleaning my bike after every ride. Threw a load of old parts on I already had. Perfect winter bike IMO.
@@dan44zzt231 true! But I'm running mini v-brakes so that works.. I was planning on riding it fixed but I've got toe overlap with fenders.. What I really like is the tire clearance tho
Check the INSIDE of an aluminium frame. Endoscopes are silly cheap today, simply connect them to your laptop. Remove BB and seatpost and you can easily check the whole frame. Maybe something you don´t need to do every year, depending of how you use the bike. Or buy an anodized frame and check with the maker/seller if it´s also anodized inside which certainly will slow down inside corrosion Rgr
I totally agree with you on the 1-by! I've had my kar for a year now, and I'm in love with it. Nice, simple, crisp and robust shifting (only once you've set it up and indexed correctly to the millimeter! 😅😅😅
A large front mud flap will work wonders at keeping the gritty road spray from washing all the lube off your chain in the first 10 minutes of your ride. I hate the weight/aero penalty with mudguards, but I have to give credit for the fact that they do their job very well indeed.
Great show! Thank you for reminding everyone that 8 speed means end of your trouble forever. However I'm sorry I have to correct you, in the interest of everyone: the water actually doesn't come from the sky when riding a bike, and there is just no physical way mudguards are spraying your components. Using actual mudguards with a curl and extending below the wheel axle of course.It isn't possible for the water drop to fight both the curl retaining it and gravity pulling it towards the end of the mudguards. All the spraying on components comes from the front wheel when it doesn't have a flap. If you want to spray your rear mech using a mudguard, you can indeed achieve it using an ass-saver, which doesn't have curls retaining the drops and is high enough for the drop to catch gravity again, and fall right on you cassette and mech.
1x is one my favourite discovers for winter and commuter bikes. so much less hassle to maintain and cheaper. specially in Ireland where up big mountains avoided for winter for most.
Loving this format, please keep it going. Specialized may not be the prettiest bikes around but they warranty their frames for life. So if you get an alloy one and it cracks, they'll replace it for free. This happened to me with an '04 (first year) Roubaix, which had an aluminum frame and carbon seat/chain stays and fork. Had to wait about 6 months though. But, they replaced it with a contemporary 2010 all-carbon one, which was an upgrade in my opinion.
I converted a basic cheap steel Argos hybrid bike to a basic cheap gravel bike for winter..... Heavier slower less need to spend excessive time cleaning it Makes my road bike feel nicer in spring and summer.....
I only got in to cycling May of 2023. I spend a fair amount of time traveling in my motorhome , when I am not traveling I live in orkney. I wanted "a do all" bike and within my budget i eventual purchased the scott speedster gravel. It gets hammered by the weather and strapped on to the back of the van, its been brilliant. I bought a pair of the lower end DT Swiss for road use and have not been disappointed so far. As I have now become MAMIL Personified I think i will look at an equally robust summer use pure road bike. Thanks for the great work you guys do, you have kept me motivated to continue cycling and out of the bottom of a bottle!
I second the winter/training bike in general. Get a decent ally frame, cheapest groupset possible that's compatible with your other wheels, budget ally rim wheels, then thiccc tires, ideally gators. In Britain you build your training bike for battle, salty roads, dirt chipping paint, massive hard-edge potholes often covered by puddles, rough tarmac and rolling hills. You have to assume you're going to take some damage, so make those components as affordable to replace or repair as possible.
Loads of people hate the Gators! I love them, thousands of miles puncture free, grip isn't as good as my summer tyres but nobody's pushing it hard in the winter are they?!
Nic is totally right on dropper posts being underrated on gravel (and even road, but that's tougher). Not necessary but fantastic if you ride in areas with hills
Hi everyone. My bike's steel, cromoly, bought in '97. I ridden it tens of thousands of miles since then in rain/snow/sun. She has full guards (from about '98) and she gets a birthday (wash) every year or so. The odd chip in the paint but not noticeably rusty. Basically, neglect is nothing like as bad as you think. Better to ride and neglect a bit than cossette and stay indoors. Shes had marathon plus this last 15 years or so with never a puncture and my teeth are still give a steak a hard time. As reguards cable (mechanical) shifting, I recon quite a few World Tour riders would disagree with you. By world tour I don't mean pro-peleton, I mean riders who tour the world. Try fixing your fancy electronics and hydraulics way out in the wilds with no local bike shop to go to. I very much respect your views but there is a big world full of views out here. Alloy bike frames are not repaired because the alloys they are made of are ruined by welding. Re heat-treating requires a very solid jig and a labourious heating cooling heating and so on. Ok for a few hundred at a time but prohibitive for one alone. Well fielded Emily on the batteries and the environment. Charging would be ok on your own solar. The real issues are the recycling and more important the awful conditions the miners (eg in DR of Congo) are subjected to to obtain the minerals to make them.
Michelin Pro 2 Race is the best tyre I’ve ever used, so comfortable, so fast, very decent grip in all weather, decent puncture resistance. I don’t know why Pro 3 Race was not as good. Actually, I prefer Conti GP4000 to GP5000 too. I really wish these brands would only bring out new models that are definitely better, else just continue making the same good stuff!
On the topic of Bells: Almost everyone who's ever been 'in my way' on a cycle path or whatever ahs responded quickly and happily to a bell. people are conditioned to it, they hear a bell when they're walking and they expect it to mean a bike is behind them and wants to pass. It's also just a nice sound - even a polite and well mannered "Excuse me" doesn't come close to the cheerful ping of bell. I bought a Knog ring style bell for my bike and most people don't even realise it's there, hidden away under my clip-on tri-bars as it is, but it works well enough, is plenty loud, and is the ideal tool for those situations. Nobody rides at night without lights if they can help it, so why ride in the day without a bell? My ideal winter bike: Titanium I agree is the best material (provided you can afford it). No fatigue issues, no corrosion issues, and as I'm more likely to have a crash in the winter I'd rather ride something I'm not too worried about if it has a dent or two, so definitely not carbon! Perhaps controversially, as aggressive a geometry as my summer bike. For all the good training on a heavy bike and then moving to the nippy carbon show-off-mobile does for your psyche, it really takes the fun out of it when your back's in agony after 30 minutes because all winter you've been in a nice relaxed position, and now you're trying to flex like 19 year-old freaks of nature in the pro peloton. Carbon wheels about 30-35mm depth. Would get these in titanium too if they were available. 40mm tyres, something with mild tread like Shwalbe G-one allround. Just enough tread to mean I can tackle a bit of gravel here and there. Probably mechanical 105 or similar. Never had an issue shifting to be honest. If I need to wear such gloves that i can't shift, it's too cold and I'm not riding anyway. What would be ideal is a 1x mullet. I prefer to do more climbing and 'resistance' training in the winter since it's a double whammy of hard sustained effort and slow speed/less windchill to help keep warm. Not mentioned in the video, but I'd opt for MTB clipless too. Road shoes are nice in the summer but cold in winter and dangerous enough to clip-clop around on on totally dry, flat surfaces let alone muddy, slushy, icy roads.
I've got a Redline flat bar cx bike that I built up with a canti brakes, force xplr axs, and an eccentric bb. I can swap it from 12spd to single speed in 20ish minutes and it's awesome. It's the bike I use the most for commuting, racing not exactly legal cx races, and in general having fun on the hidden trails in San Francisco. Easily one of my favorite bikes I've ever owned!
I have chunky fingers and have never had an issue with Di2 shift buttons, even in winter with thick gloves. Also, I never get this complaint about the Shimano battery. It lasts for ages and you get a low battery warning on your head unit at 20%.
I have a 2010 Cervelo S1. So that is a aluminium frame. And i have ridden it 150-200 km a week on average until the summer 2022. And that is still completely fine. I worked in a bikeshop when I bought it. And have maintained it very well. So alloy frames can easily last 15-20 years if you take care of them.
@@denisspratt926 I do and have the benefit of living in a place where it only rains a few days each year. Should I re-coat areas that are a bit worn from bikepacking gear? Would not wanna paint and coat the whole bike, any suggestions for what to use to fix up small spots? (don't care about looks)
@@kautzz I haven´t done it. But if you do want to then clean with alcohol first. Then just get paint that are used on cars. A lot of places that sell stuff for cars and motorbikes sell small jars of paint for that.
so what actually is the benefit of electric shifting? all I hear is "once you try it you'll never go back" but never heard any plausible, objective arguments for it. personally I'm already stressed out by managing charging schedules of lights, watch, phone, earbuds, cameras, etc. I work in tech and know how unreliable BLE actually is, do I really want to bother with potentially buggy software and hardware problems while not at work? I ride mechanical 105 and entry level GRX and never had any issues with it. Had to adjust RD once in like 5 years since I had it and it's not rocket science IMAO. also loooove that chunky mechanical feeling of the shifters and the direct feedback when thrashing through gears. reminds me of the debate about touch vs tactile buttons in cars
Some of the advantages are: Effortless shifting, can be useful when your fingers are too weak from fatigue or too numb from the cold Settings stay consistent for longer and are resistant against the elements (no cables to stretch and rust) Multiple shifter positions and configurations, helpful for those with physical deformities and those riding on recumbents or hand bikes I've ridden a bike with Ultegra Di2 R8070 on a few rides before and during that period, I realised I can actually live without electronic groupsets, especially when it hasn't become a need yet.
Love Nic on the podcast could listen to him for hours perhaps its because my family resides in Pretoria and my love of bikes brilliant content as usual Jimmy.
Love the episode, and Nic is amazing on the show. Im not sponsored or anything by the company but there are bells for aero handelbars from close the gap. One of the best upgrades i ever got for my bike.
Jimmy would fit right in at home with full mid guards here in Portland Oregon. We can tell when people are not from the area when their winter bike does not have guards. Some groups won’t even let you ride without them. We all want to be dry, but full fender guards on
I know this is mostly a road/gravel discussion, but I just love 2-by on my hardtail MTB - even with a 12-speed cassette in the back (10-45 though, not 10-5x). With 26T and 36T chain rings, this gives me incredible range - if I only had, say, a 30T chainring, I would constantly spin out on fast descends. If I went with a 32T or even larger chain ring, I wouldn't have an easy enough "bail out" gear on some of the steepest climbs (yes, maybe I just need more training). And about complexity resp. the problem of explaining 2-by to people new to biking: I am just using it as two modes: big chain ring for flats and downhill (a.k.a. "road" mode), small chain ring when going uphill (a.k.a. "goat mode"). If you explain it like this, even the most thick customer should get it.
We’d have to do some math, but I’m gonna push back on cable having less energy impact than the battery. When you use a cable, you’re using up the tensile strength of a piece of steel that then gets tossed. When you use the battery, you’re using up the energy from the grid, and a little bit of your ability to store it. I think that consuming 1Wh + battery degradation fueled by fire will consume less energy than the equivalent of how much goes into creating a cable divided by how much you can pull.
53:07 I have ‘aero bars’ if profile design wing 10a base bar count as aero, I have a bell on it, need to find the right mounting system You can find bells which go on the stem and replace a 10mm spacer
Not killing my mech shifters.. XTR all the way and 105 works great for the cost. It still rocks.. no batteries and no laptop needed.. fix you shifting with basic tools. You guys got this one wrong. Love the rest of the show and I would love a titanium bike.
The vast (VAST) majority of bikes in the world are mechanical shifting and will be so forever. 100s of millions of city bikes, train station bikes, bangers on the farm, bikes for old folks, bikes for young folks will forever be mechanical. There is no universe that I can park a SRAM electronic shifting bike at a train station for a week and expect it to be there when I return.
They complain about GCN being out of touch one week and then spout crap like this the next which shows how far they're removed from the reality of your average bike owner. Just ridiculous.
But the only reason for the bike being stolen is technically due to people’s mentality and not because the bike is electronic shifting. Where I live, I’ve kept a Dura Ace di2 equipped bike unlocked outside of a train station and it was there when I came to pick it up 3 days later.
I bought a Spa cycles Elan Mk2 titanium, would probably take 40mm tyres, looks like an audax bike but is an all-round really, ticks all of Jimmy's boxes here, rides like you're on a sheet of glass. Got 4 season goodyear vector 700 - 32 tyres and first try on them I'm impressed up to now
Campagnolo 10, 11s mechanical with external cable routing. Rim Brake. I do have Chorus 12s mechanical disc on Ti custom. It just works .... there is no need to pay extra $$ & complicate a simple function of stopping & shifting gears.
The issue is wear on the drivetrain....If you're not dealing with salt, the frame is not the limiting factor, but grit will grind away caliper brake wheels, chains , derailleurs and cables. Here in the NW USA, we all have winter bikes with specifcally t the ability to run full mudguards and larger tire sizes. Gravel bikes with street tires are common here as winter machines.
I do love Nick but really if he 'knows nothing about mudguards', then maybe he shouldn't comment about them. The dirt doesn't drip down on to the components at all - the water and dirt is flung around the inside of the guard and drips out either end, well away from any parts. very little if any gets near the chain etc. Flaps help discharge the water down low. Front and rear help keep down spray, I'd recommend those from RAW, available with reflective surface for added visibility. Components being more dirty on bikes with guards is probably because they are actually ridden in the dirt and muck. I do maybe 2000 or more miles over the winter on a bike with guards, partly because I will go out in poor weather knowing I won't get soaked to the skin and filthy.
Switching mechs with etap is exactly what I do my mtb has gx and cx has a 36t force mech. For racing I keep force but when I want to go for a technical gravel ride I borrow my gx mech, takes less than 10 mins to swap and reconfig the shifting in the app! Intercompatibility and lack of planned obsolescence ie incompatibility between old and new di2 has to be SRAMs main strength.
you can repair alloy bike cracks by wrapping it in carbon and using a more flexible epoxy such as West systems G-flex. The youtuber Rahul was talking about it and unfortunately've had to do it myself once. You cannot weld it as rewelding makes everywhere around the join more fragile.
Ali CX bike (Kensis CX racelight), 105 speed 11 or 12, with full mudguard and 32mm Cont 4 season on Mavic Kysilum 😁 Get washed every ride not to sure why mud guards don't stop bottom bracket and me dry 🤯
I'm not sure i agree with Nick that mudguards direct spray back onto the components. They do direct it back to the tyre, and the inside of the guards can get clogged up with dirt. They can also be suboptimal with rim brakes. But my components - RD, FD, chain, cassette are all much cleaner when using mudguards. Not to mention the rest of the bike and the rider and the rider's clothes. It does make cleaning and maintenance a pain though I agree.
I think defo the definition of a winter bike varies on region. My heavy winter bike is one I care less about and has winter tyres, but most importantly can handle the crazy winter wind here in Ireland 🇮🇪. I can't picture riding a lightweight carbon frame during a 40 kph crosswind
Good winter tires might be the Challenge Strada Bianca or something else from this brand or the continental contact speed. Only when it comes to gravel of course or light snow. Or get some thin Smart Sam from Schwalbe to be completely safe
Why is titanium the best??? If you have other metals, like aluminum stems, seatpost, threaded aluminum bb together with salt, its really not good. why should this be better the carbon? You have to use some kind of anti seize or carbon paste anyway. Technically aluminum could be better, cause other components are mostly from the same material. If i'm right, aluminum oxide is a very thin layer which could protect the aluminum underneath.
This morning's commute was -40C here in Canada. Mechanical 7 speed on a steel frame with rim brakes. 42mm studded tires. Too cold for anything electronic. Head unit has to go in my pocket as it will only last 20 minutes before the battery gives up. Lots of layers of clothing.
I'd have to half-disagree on mudguards. the mostly horizontal parts of a full-length mudguard would rain mud over your hubs and transmission, but the mostly vertical parts just drain down the mud. That is why I set up a cheap floating mudguard inverted: going towards the bottom bracket. That way, all the mud flinging towards the frame gets caught and drips down, protecting the paintjob, BB, and chainrings.
Bought a carbon record from wiggle....no harbo though! Had the pleasure of a super record cassette and chain. 12spd rim brake mechanical to go on a 953 frame. Looks and rides great.
Shimano all the way. You’re looking at this from the perspective of high end road bikes but Shimano absolutely kill SRAM and Campy (who don’t even have anything to offer) in the entry level market. Not just road bikes, but town and hybrid bikes. You know, bikes that the masses ride to get to work or to the shops etc. Tourney, Altus, Claris etc. all functions amazingly well, it’s tough and it’s cheap as anything. Only Microshift comes close really in that area and their cheap stuff still doesn’t match Shimano yet.
I set up my 2-by Di2 GRX in SRAM Style in Winter plus the full syncro mode for the front derailleur. So I do use normally only the bigger Buttons to shift through the rear mech easily and the front mech shifts at an specific point up- or downwards. Easy with thicker gloves and so fast and on point.
I have a 20 year old Campy Centaur 10-speed road bike drivetrain, other than the chain (KMC), freehub (Mavic) and cassette (Shimano, re-spaced to match Campy indexing), on a rim brake Ti frame. The rest of the bike is Shimano and other brands. Built it up myself, obviously. The shifting is fairly smooth although it does get clunky eventually, requiring a rebuild of the shifters, but they're nearly completely rebuildable so no issues there. I do it myself. At some point I'll probably upgrade to electronic shifting, but no rush so I have plenty of time to decide which brand and line to get. It'll probably be up to 15-speed by then.
In my active years in road cycling i rode a Singlespeed Cyclocross as a winter bike. I live in northern Germany, so nasty weather over here. They often use sand and salt mix against ice on the roads which kills your drivetrain. So Singlespeed is cheaper to maintain. Often a lot of fun, but sometimes i regret it with heavy winds and stuff. But you got a workout with lesser kilometres and build up a lot of strength. When season came i was in much better shape than my buddies who rode indoor or went to Mallorca once a winter for training camps. Even after i sold all my fancy bikes i kept my OnOne pompino singlecross because it grew on me that much. I went to hell and back on that bike.
How about a discussion on the problem of getting a tubeless tire on a rim in the first place? I have been tubeless for the last five years and have had more rim/tire combinations that were a nightmare to mount than those that worked. Even then, trying to do it without tools is nigh on impossible. Really enjoy your vids!
I've mounted multiple tubeless tires onto multiple wheels, some are easy (some are almost a piece of cake actually) and some are real stubborn. My trick is to always ensure the bead is in the rim's valley and apply a constant pushing force with my palms to get the last bit of bead into the rim. I don't use tire levers to pry it in unless I have absolutely no choice, but I always do my best not to use them.
Nick is the common sense Czar - period. When I come to England this summer I would love to buy a bike from him. Indestructible, get around the world machine. 8Speed Claris on a frame that clears 35c tires and take it on Pan Celtic Ultra.
The use of “Alloy” when (I think) you mean Aluminium Alloy is confusing. Steel is an alloy, many of the varieties used in bike frame tubes are specifically alloy steels.
To that alloy-bike-discussion... It's always also a question of quality used. There are different grades of aluminium and if you use lower grade the risk of alloy braking is just higher. I once had a Nukeproof bike that just broke without too much stress on the frame (like if you can't roll over the parking lot on an enduro bike it's a bit of a problem)... had taken it to an aluminium expert... he explained there are usually three grades of aluminium - the difference beeing how closeley they would inspect the material (eg every milimeter, every 5 cm, every 20cm) for voids etc... my frame was obviously from a lesser grade and broke on several different spots... yes you could weld it back (we actually did, would have cost about 1500€ if it wouldn't have been a friend...) but it would brake in another spot shortly after... broke next to my car - just right above the disc brake mounts... scary AF... Long story short: Alloy can disintegrate catastrophically. Reparing Alloy is extremely expensive and complicated... and since there are already first applications of recycling carbon - I'm going for carbon...
For non-tubeless commuting and gravel I've yet to find anything that surpasses the Continental Travel Contact touring tyre in 1.75". Amazes me it isn't more popular.
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As a guy who raced MTB’s when Steel was replaced by Alloy we all noticed very very quickly how easy alloy broke vs steel, I had multiple high end alloy bikes from Yeti Klein Manitou and Cannonade, I had brake lever simple dent or tear the top tube if crashed, stays fracture from pedal forces vs the vibration and hits at the rear, head tubes crack, in fact the alloy ended so thin in places you could feel it deflecting with your thumb etc. original carbon frames while only 100 to 200 grams less vs the high end alloy was actually way way stronger and even took impact well, but that’s when a carbon frame was 1200 to 1400 grams, alloy 1300 to 1700 and steel 1600 to 2000 grams on average, the frames had a little more impact protection vs the modern high module carbon, that is stronger but is then used in far thinner forms meaning they simply crack easily when struck. I like carbon as you can repair if easily.
The reason bikes with guards are in worse condition is that they are actually being ridden in all weathers.
And a proper fitting rear guard DOES protect the FD, and a prpper fitting front guard DOES protect the front crank set and hence chain....
Totally. Everyone I know who doesn't have them is either riding a MTB or hardly rides in wet roads.
What trashes a bike is not the mudguards or the winter road riding, it's the lack of maintenance. I ride over 7000k/year in all weathers. A durable chain lasts me over 6000k and I get at least 3 chains per cassette. I just up the maintenance in grimy conditions.
I am really surprised Nick can't figure it out 😕
Exactly a bike with mudguards is more likely to be a winter beater / commuting bike so won't be getting the same tlc. When I commuted every day by bike you would ride in on salted roads in the winter leaving your bike to sit at work then ride home where if it was lucky it would get a quick wash off and oil in the week and a proper wash off at the weekend as by the time I got home in the week it was often late.
@@3mekG i'm not...
Do not kill off mechanical. I personally don’t want electronic shifting + I’ve never had a problem using my shifters during winter months!! 🚴♀️
Thank-you
105 mechanical 12 speed looks interesting thinking of putting it on my future ti bike build.
I agree, don't kill mechanical but I do also enjoy electric. It has a lot of small niceties that make it a joy to have on my bike. None of them make me faster but I like having it.
Yes, I dont get how tiny buttons are easier to use with gloves than triggers or thumb shifters.
Yeah, thumb shifters are still a thing where winter riding means sub zero temps.
We arent all so precious we head for the trainer. Here I mountain bike in the rain, mud, snow, whatever.
These guys are roadie divas, Nick much more so than the others.
Agreed! It's nuts that I would need to carry batteries to ride my manual bike. I love to know I can get up and ride each and every time
Alloy bike, Claris 8 speed, full mudguards, perfect for winter and as it's heavier I feel benefit when I'm back on my summer bike.
But no hydraulic brakes...
I've never had a problem so far
You got that right, just need to add "old", "former" "used". Winter bike, winter wheels, winter rubber.
+1. There are 32T and 34T 8-speed cassettes, too. And if disc brakes are your thing, Growtac Equal calipers or Paul Klampers are some of the best around
Nic seems like such a cool, laid back guy. I could listen to him talk about bikes for hours.
Aluminium is rather excellent material for many reasons.
The case for its low fatigue life expectancy is dependent on many factors. For instance, an airplane will load up its structural frame during take off and landing (mostly landing). If it is flown 4 times a day, that would be eight cycles a day which translates to 2980 cycles a year. In addition, there are stresses being applied during flight but it's mostly concentrated at around the wing attachment structure, which is localized and that's where the flight hours comes in to figure out the service life of the plane (for small ones around 20,000).
The major difference between airplanes and bicycles make of Aluminium alloys is that bikes are inherently loaded more often than airplanes. Every pothole, crack on the road, bunny hop counts as a load cycle. In addition, if you're truly powerful rider that does sprint out of saddle up every single hill and town line, while living in a rather pothole-ridden streets then you're also adding more "flight hours" on your frame.
The notion that a frame can only last for five years or so and so destroys a frame every couple years is rather anecdotal and not necessarily true. Afterall, many track bikes are still being made out of Aluminium and have lived a harsh life of track cycling crashes and generally more powerful riders.
So in my opinion, which is not truly mine as I have read on the matter, studied engineering, have done a basic research on the subject matter, and have my own anecdotal experience; as is the case with any other material, the reason for Aluminium alloy frames to get "soft" or crack due to fatigue is either poor quality of manufacturing to begin with or poor maintenance. Even looking up the fatigue curves of Titanium alloys, you would come across the same issue that Aluminium alloys have, which is the fact that both materials have Fatigue limit as opposed to Steel which has an endurance limit. Granted Titanium has higher load cycles before reaching its fatigue limit; alas, Titanium alloys are not immune to fatigue cracks.
In conclusion, there is nothing wrong with well manufactured and well designed Aluminium bike frame, as long as it's well maintained. On the maintenance front, if there is bare metal showing due to rubbing of cables, shoes, ... then it's prudent to clean and re-coat it to avoid exposing the bare metal to the atmosphere where oxidation would increase crack propagation (even micro level cracks that are not perceptible to naked eye).
A very interesting comment. Aeroplanes are critically stressed in rather more regions than suggested above.
Aluminium and titanium do indeed have a finite fatique limit. It would be very interesting to be able to gather data on the instances of failures in the varying materials, but as its unlikely there is any practical reporting system in existence it would be a gargantuan task. We could narrow it down though and ask "has anyone had a problem of cracking in a Ti frame?".
Before recoating the bare aluminium (rub mark) on your frame, polish it first to remove scratches etc then reprotect.
@@emmabird9745 indeed airplanes are loaded in various regions; alas, listing how an airplane structure is loaded wasn't my top priority.
As for polishing the bare metal before coating it, I thought that would be rather obvious as you need to prepare any surface before applying most coatings.
Nick's theory may come in handy when a client wants a cheap aluminium bike, and there is more money to be made on other materials...
You obviously have limited experience with using aluminium frames in adverse circumstances (winter, rain, cold). I have to check / rebuilt the BB area and head tube area to make sure every thing is clean and not getting corroded, and after only so many cycles, taking out wheels, pushing in the BB, thightening the headset,... the aluminium will have been fatigued and tolerances get worse (e.g. on the headset, BB threading less and less holding the BB into place at correct torque settings), the steel QR bites into the alu dropouts a bit deeper (up until the point the dish of the wheel is slightly more to the RD and in some frames, the chain is starting to touch the rear fork / dropout area in the smallest cog), etcetera.
@@l.d.t.6327 Hi. I think what you are talking about here, though perfectly valid, is not what a fatigue engineer would class as metal fatigue (repeated cyclic stress). Rather it would be classified as "wear and tear" or "corrosion damage". In itself it would restrict the frame life, and unchecked make any subsequent fatiguing more serious.
I would agree with you that this is the more serious aspect to winter maintenance.
To rapid dry your bike use a battery operated leaf blower. Works a treat at removing excess water out your bike, especially your chain.
Great podcast guys!
Love Nick being on the show he talks the truth and is very entertaining! 😂
Mudguards protect you and the bike. This anti mudguard talk is bs. Use them. They are amazing.
His view was quite road centric, not hardly applicable to commuters without the luxury of a proper shop setup. They're a big help.
Absolutely. Especially the remark about the bottom bracket. A front mud guard actually protects the bottom bracket from road spray... 🤦♂
At least Nic started with the fact he's no expert in mudguards. No shit. Maybe should let the people who know what they're talking about, from experience, do the talking on that one.
Fenders (sorry, I am Canadian) are a MUST for anyone commuting in Vancouver. Water and grit run down along the fenders and protect the bottom braket and drivetrain.
I got the SKS Raceblades for my commuting roadbike (28mm tyres, rimbrakes) and it was by far the best purchase I did last year. I even stopped needing to use pants for the rain, and when it gets warmer I can take them out in a matter of seconds. I can totally recommend them
Loving your content. No BS, organic varied personalities of your presenters, and just good. Keep it up
Full mudguards all the way. I remove the wheels when I clean my bike..!!
Wishing Francis and his family all the best. As for the pod cast, I am loving it. Nick needs to be a regular and I would love to see Bike fit James on the pod cast as well. One question for Nick, I'm in Canada and as you know it gets super cold, its -29C today with -44c wind chill today, will tubeless sealant work?
Tubeless sealants are water based and will work poorly in the cold unless they add extra propylene glycol as an antifreeze. Orange Seal makes a winter sealant like that, or you can DIY.
Thanks for good content, I often listen to your pod while riding. It would be cool, as a Finn who rides in the winter even at 20 degrees below zero, to have an episode (perhaps with a guest with experience riding in similar conditions) about proper winter cycling :)
Bike mechanics like this are the reason I do all my own servicing
I ride my Cube Nuroad (gravel) with Shimano Claris 8-speed and mechanical discs. The stuff just works and is durable. When Spring arrives I’ll grab my Tarmac SL6 💨
solid choice mate
Rohloff with gates carbon belt is the ultimate winter drive train set-up. I have a steel tout terrain with, 60mm wide tires on 650b wheels with mud guards...I wash it once a year! PERFECT 👌
I'm sorry but I disagree with the comments regarding the mudguards.
Yes a bike will still get dirty but I don't.....
Yes my components still need a wash..... But I don't.....
I just completed a 91 mile ride in UK winter and it chucked it down for last 30 miles..... Even then I was so appreciative of my mudguards as I was cycling through muddy roadside rivers mile after mile
I love when you guys bring Nic. He is honest, direct and highly opinionated. I may agree or disagree with what he says but he always have a clear point of view with valid arguments.
PS: An idea for under/over or love/kill: 3D printed saddles, internal cable routing, integrated cockpits (stem+handlebar).
My ideal year-round bike is a steel gravel frame w/ Microshift Sword 10-speed mechanical, Growtac Equal calipers, Redshift stem, 700c wheels & ~45mm tires [I live in the SF Bay Area]
“England has extreme winters” that was cute 😂🇨🇦🥶
Yeah, as a Cdn/Brit Dual, I almost choked when that was stated. Even compared to northern Europe, the UK's weather is considered "temperate". Mind you, the term "insulation" is a bit of a quandary to many Brits.
😂😂😂
I saw a Brit once complain about how “wet” it was during winter. If it’s not frozen solid, don’t talk to me about winter riding.
@@evanthomas9680I'd rather ride in the cold and dry than in a torrential downpour when it's 5⁰c above. Absolutely soul destroying, can't keep dry no matter what. At least in sub -5⁰c I can wrap up and manage my layering to stop sweating out.
Lots of fun listening to these complaints from Moscow at -20 C ))) By the way, if anyone's interested - the ultimate best bike for a real winter with lots of snow is a fatbike.
Nick is a fantastic fill in!!!❤
Couple of things on the ideal winter bike:
6-11 speed chains have the same INTERNAL width... you can use an 11 speed chain on a six speed bike.... I for instance upgraded a walmart bike with 1x8 to 1x11 and am running the original cranks. When chains got thinner it was thickness of the metal used on the plates, not the gaps between them. The sprockets didn't get thinner they just got closer together.
As to running older stuff on a modern bike: most wheels are still compatible with HG. That means any 6-11 speed setup will still work. You can even run 12 speed on HG. I have a 2009 Stumpjumper FSR which is running Sram GX Eagle AXS on the original 26 inch wheels. It is using an NX 11-50 cassette, which was the cheapest eagle casette when I got it, but now you can get it in SX.
If you are willing to build a mullet bike... 1x eagle components with blips paired to TRP hydraulic brakes... Or you can just go full gravel components.
Or if you want to run hydrualic brakes with 6 speed brifters, you can use something like the giant conduct system, which uses very very short cables to actuate the hydraulic master cylinder. Giant came up with this (I think it was actually TRP) to allow hydraulic brakes with Tiagra, before native hydraulic tiagra was available. I upgraded my older Defy to Tiagra hydraulic, and did not really notice a difference in feel or power, but there was a big difference in weight. If you want to pay for shipping and give me a shout out, I would be quite happy to donate the system for testing.
Finally I hear tell that there is a new Chinese electronic system that lets you define the number of sprockets, and then lets you individually index each gear... so there is that.
The standards for derailleur mounting are compatible from 2024 back (other than Sram Transmission). There are only really 2 disc brake mount standards. Modern bikes will work fine with ancient components, and vice versa
Properly made mudguards have edges rolled in to drain water and stop it from dripping back on the bike.
Cheap’ish Gravel bike with 1x mechanical, mudguards, hydraulic disc brakes & 700x35-45 studded tyres. That's my setup for winter cycling in Norway. Usually between -5 and -20'ish degrees between November and March; no need for fancy stuff in those conditions.
Really enjoyed the show - thank you for sharing all the great information. I will suggest no need to worry much in regards to energy consumption charging SRAM battery packs. I just got my hands on AXS after years of resisting (new gravel bike) and am so pleased I will convert my old MTB to electric; the shifts are so fast and accurate. Reference the battery capacity as 2.2 watt hours or 7,920 joules. Boiling 1 liter of water requires 330,536 joules so it is likely afternoon tea consumption will outpace several months of riding. Keep up the good work!
Mechanical shifters for flat bars are great. Decent ones work for years without issue. I loved early the 11 speed Shimano road shifters.
Really like Nick could listen to him for ages .
+1 for the Teravail Ramparts, I run them 38c for commuting in Canadian winter (albeit a Toronto winter, which is more welcoming), and I feel super confident on them.
I live in Southern California so winter isn’t a huge issue but I still ride a titanium gravel bike with 35mm tires year round. If I lived in a place with real winter weather I might go with knobby tires in winter. I assemble my bikes with Morgan Blue aqua proof paste on anything that’s threaded or press fit. This stuff is impervious to anything weather can throw at it including salt! I have GRX one by mechanical. With cold hands there’s no issue with shifting. Panaracer gravel kings are tough as nails and come in an all slick tread version. I like the Gavel King SS with a semi slick center and knobby shoulders. These would be ideal winter tires. Traction is great.
Like the mics, clear and loud. Like her voice and the rundown of program. Well researched fair comments. Expect to see this channel flourish much longer. Keep up the good work. Thumbs up.
Producer Emily... if you happen to like Specialized saddles, the women's versions have a "cutout" which is sealed at the bottom. Basically any of the Mimic saddles.
Great show. Talking about bike mugging. Recalled an incident in 1994 in Manchester. A course mate riding through a rough area to the uni , someone stood in front of him, grabbed the handlebars and shoved him off the bike and stole it. Tbh, for as long as I've been riding in Malaysia, and nowadays with these very expensive bikes, we've never heard any single incident of this yet. Like you said, it's probably a UK thing.
Pedal systems. Still love my SPD-R pedals and cleats. Never had one break and easy use. Great racing corner clearance.
Frame bags are the key (about keeping tools on your winter bike). A waterproof frame bag will keep everything dry, keep your frame pump in mint condition and will also have space to carry snacks.
None of your jerseys/jackets have pockets?
I ride 1x Di2 with the shifters setup as SRAM. Does make shifting with Winter gloves on a lot easier.
I've just got a Planet X Mulo (frame on sale for £99 currently) as I can't be bothered maintaining gears or cleaning my bike after every ride. Threw a load of old parts on I already had. Perfect winter bike IMO.
Got the same frame for my Winter bike. Been riding it for a Couple of weeks now. It's alright but the paint job is so ugly.
@@stop223 also it could have really used a weld on canti hanger, but can't moan too much for £99 🤣
@@dan44zzt231 true! But I'm running mini v-brakes so that works..
I was planning on riding it fixed but I've got toe overlap with fenders.. What I really like is the tire clearance tho
Check the INSIDE of an aluminium frame. Endoscopes are silly cheap today, simply connect them to your laptop. Remove BB and seatpost and you can easily check the whole frame. Maybe something you don´t need to do every year, depending of how you use the bike. Or buy an anodized frame and check with the maker/seller if it´s also anodized inside which certainly will slow down inside corrosion Rgr
I totally agree with you on the 1-by! I've had my kar for a year now, and I'm in love with it. Nice, simple, crisp and robust shifting (only once you've set it up and indexed correctly to the millimeter! 😅😅😅
A large front mud flap will work wonders at keeping the gritty road spray from washing all the lube off your chain in the first 10 minutes of your ride. I hate the weight/aero penalty with mudguards, but I have to give credit for the fact that they do their job very well indeed.
Great show! Thank you for reminding everyone that 8 speed means end of your trouble forever. However I'm sorry I have to correct you, in the interest of everyone: the water actually doesn't come from the sky when riding a bike, and there is just no physical way mudguards are spraying your components. Using actual mudguards with a curl and extending below the wheel axle of course.It isn't possible for the water drop to fight both the curl retaining it and gravity pulling it towards the end of the mudguards. All the spraying on components comes from the front wheel when it doesn't have a flap. If you want to spray your rear mech using a mudguard, you can indeed achieve it using an ass-saver, which doesn't have curls retaining the drops and is high enough for the drop to catch gravity again, and fall right on you cassette and mech.
Nic is so wrong about fenders/mudguards wow
And 8-speed lol
1x is one my favourite discovers for winter and commuter bikes. so much less hassle to maintain and cheaper. specially in Ireland where up big mountains avoided for winter for most.
Loving this format, please keep it going. Specialized may not be the prettiest bikes around but they warranty their frames for life. So if you get an alloy one and it cracks, they'll replace it for free. This happened to me with an '04 (first year) Roubaix, which had an aluminum frame and carbon seat/chain stays and fork. Had to wait about 6 months though. But, they replaced it with a contemporary 2010 all-carbon one, which was an upgrade in my opinion.
Giant same
I converted a basic cheap steel Argos hybrid bike to a basic cheap gravel bike for winter.....
Heavier slower less need to spend excessive time cleaning it
Makes my road bike feel nicer in spring and summer.....
These questions are so stupid but I love listening to this. Also, I will NEVER give up my mechanical.
I only got in to cycling May of 2023. I spend a fair amount of time traveling in my motorhome , when I am not traveling I live in orkney. I wanted "a do all" bike and within my budget i eventual purchased the scott speedster gravel. It gets hammered by the weather and strapped on to the back of the van, its been brilliant. I bought a pair of the lower end DT Swiss for road use and have not been disappointed so far. As I have now become MAMIL Personified I think i will look at an equally robust summer use pure road bike.
Thanks for the great work you guys do, you have kept me motivated to continue cycling and out of the bottom of a bottle!
I second the winter/training bike in general. Get a decent ally frame, cheapest groupset possible that's compatible with your other wheels, budget ally rim wheels, then thiccc tires, ideally gators.
In Britain you build your training bike for battle, salty roads, dirt chipping paint, massive hard-edge potholes often covered by puddles, rough tarmac and rolling hills. You have to assume you're going to take some damage, so make those components as affordable to replace or repair as possible.
Loads of people hate the Gators! I love them, thousands of miles puncture free, grip isn't as good as my summer tyres but nobody's pushing it hard in the winter are they?!
Life is too short to ride crap bikes, my bikes (FS, HT, gravel & road) are all well spec'd and ridden all year round (+150 rides in 2023).
Nic is totally right on dropper posts being underrated on gravel (and even road, but that's tougher). Not necessary but fantastic if you ride in areas with hills
Hi everyone. My bike's steel, cromoly, bought in '97. I ridden it tens of thousands of miles since then in rain/snow/sun. She has full guards (from about '98) and she gets a birthday (wash) every year or so. The odd chip in the paint but not noticeably rusty. Basically, neglect is nothing like as bad as you think. Better to ride and neglect a bit than cossette and stay indoors.
Shes had marathon plus this last 15 years or so with never a puncture and my teeth are still give a steak a hard time.
As reguards cable (mechanical) shifting, I recon quite a few World Tour riders would disagree with you. By world tour I don't mean pro-peleton, I mean riders who tour the world. Try fixing your fancy electronics and hydraulics way out in the wilds with no local bike shop to go to.
I very much respect your views but there is a big world full of views out here.
Alloy bike frames are not repaired because the alloys they are made of are ruined by welding. Re heat-treating requires a very solid jig and a labourious heating cooling heating and so on. Ok for a few hundred at a time but prohibitive for one alone.
Well fielded Emily on the batteries and the environment. Charging would be ok on your own solar. The real issues are the recycling and more important the awful conditions the miners (eg in DR of Congo) are subjected to to obtain the minerals to make them.
My feelings exactly. Old cyclocross bike means new winter bike.
Close the Gap (formerly hidemybell) makes a gps mount with bell in them for every road bar arrangement incl cervelo (jumbo sponsor as well). -U10
8 speed shimano rules in off road, I race cross on it, no chain blocking with mud. I race tt on 8 speeding on the road tt bike, just works.
Bought an On One pick'n'flick titanium around 10 years ago its been faultless all year round.....love it
Michelin Pro 2 Race is the best tyre I’ve ever used, so comfortable, so fast, very decent grip in all weather, decent puncture resistance.
I don’t know why Pro 3 Race was not as good. Actually, I prefer Conti GP4000 to GP5000 too. I really wish these brands would only bring out new models that are definitely better, else just continue making the same good stuff!
On the topic of Bells: Almost everyone who's ever been 'in my way' on a cycle path or whatever ahs responded quickly and happily to a bell. people are conditioned to it, they hear a bell when they're walking and they expect it to mean a bike is behind them and wants to pass. It's also just a nice sound - even a polite and well mannered "Excuse me" doesn't come close to the cheerful ping of bell. I bought a Knog ring style bell for my bike and most people don't even realise it's there, hidden away under my clip-on tri-bars as it is, but it works well enough, is plenty loud, and is the ideal tool for those situations. Nobody rides at night without lights if they can help it, so why ride in the day without a bell?
My ideal winter bike:
Titanium I agree is the best material (provided you can afford it). No fatigue issues, no corrosion issues, and as I'm more likely to have a crash in the winter I'd rather ride something I'm not too worried about if it has a dent or two, so definitely not carbon!
Perhaps controversially, as aggressive a geometry as my summer bike. For all the good training on a heavy bike and then moving to the nippy carbon show-off-mobile does for your psyche, it really takes the fun out of it when your back's in agony after 30 minutes because all winter you've been in a nice relaxed position, and now you're trying to flex like 19 year-old freaks of nature in the pro peloton.
Carbon wheels about 30-35mm depth. Would get these in titanium too if they were available.
40mm tyres, something with mild tread like Shwalbe G-one allround. Just enough tread to mean I can tackle a bit of gravel here and there.
Probably mechanical 105 or similar. Never had an issue shifting to be honest. If I need to wear such gloves that i can't shift, it's too cold and I'm not riding anyway. What would be ideal is a 1x mullet. I prefer to do more climbing and 'resistance' training in the winter since it's a double whammy of hard sustained effort and slow speed/less windchill to help keep warm.
Not mentioned in the video, but I'd opt for MTB clipless too. Road shoes are nice in the summer but cold in winter and dangerous enough to clip-clop around on on totally dry, flat surfaces let alone muddy, slushy, icy roads.
I've got a Redline flat bar cx bike that I built up with a canti brakes, force xplr axs, and an eccentric bb. I can swap it from 12spd to single speed in 20ish minutes and it's awesome. It's the bike I use the most for commuting, racing not exactly legal cx races, and in general having fun on the hidden trails in San Francisco. Easily one of my favorite bikes I've ever owned!
I have chunky fingers and have never had an issue with Di2 shift buttons, even in winter with thick gloves.
Also, I never get this complaint about the Shimano battery. It lasts for ages and you get a low battery warning on your head unit at 20%.
I have a 2010 Cervelo S1.
So that is a aluminium frame.
And i have ridden it 150-200 km a week on average until the summer 2022.
And that is still completely fine.
I worked in a bikeshop when I bought it.
And have maintained it very well.
So alloy frames can easily last 15-20 years if you take care of them.
thank you for sharing. was starting to worry that my bikes only have a year left to live 😅
@@kautzz no problem.
As long as you take care of them they’ll be fine.
@@denisspratt926 I do and have the benefit of living in a place where it only rains a few days each year. Should I re-coat areas that are a bit worn from bikepacking gear? Would not wanna paint and coat the whole bike, any suggestions for what to use to fix up small spots? (don't care about looks)
@@kautzz I haven´t done it.
But if you do want to then clean with alcohol first.
Then just get paint that are used on cars.
A lot of places that sell stuff for cars and motorbikes sell small jars of paint for that.
Winter bike -> an old steel touring frame will easily fit 32mm tires, build it singel speed/fixed gear. to have less parts, with less to go wrong.
so what actually is the benefit of electric shifting? all I hear is "once you try it you'll never go back" but never heard any plausible, objective arguments for it. personally I'm already stressed out by managing charging schedules of lights, watch, phone, earbuds, cameras, etc. I work in tech and know how unreliable BLE actually is, do I really want to bother with potentially buggy software and hardware problems while not at work? I ride mechanical 105 and entry level GRX and never had any issues with it. Had to adjust RD once in like 5 years since I had it and it's not rocket science IMAO. also loooove that chunky mechanical feeling of the shifters and the direct feedback when thrashing through gears. reminds me of the debate about touch vs tactile buttons in cars
Some of the advantages are:
Effortless shifting, can be useful when your fingers are too weak from fatigue or too numb from the cold
Settings stay consistent for longer and are resistant against the elements (no cables to stretch and rust)
Multiple shifter positions and configurations, helpful for those with physical deformities and those riding on recumbents or hand bikes
I've ridden a bike with Ultegra Di2 R8070 on a few rides before and during that period, I realised I can actually live without electronic groupsets, especially when it hasn't become a need yet.
Love Nic on the podcast could listen to him for hours perhaps its because my family resides in Pretoria and my love of bikes brilliant content as usual Jimmy.
Love how you guys (and gal) just get into it; no faffing about.
Love the episode, and Nic is amazing on the show. Im not sponsored or anything by the company but there are bells for aero handelbars from close the gap. One of the best upgrades i ever got for my bike.
Jimmy would fit right in at home with full mid guards here in Portland Oregon. We can tell when people are not from the area when their winter bike does not have guards. Some groups won’t even let you ride without them. We all want to be dry, but full fender guards on
I know this is mostly a road/gravel discussion, but I just love 2-by on my hardtail MTB - even with a 12-speed cassette in the back (10-45 though, not 10-5x). With 26T and 36T chain rings, this gives me incredible range - if I only had, say, a 30T chainring, I would constantly spin out on fast descends. If I went with a 32T or even larger chain ring, I wouldn't have an easy enough "bail out" gear on some of the steepest climbs (yes, maybe I just need more training).
And about complexity resp. the problem of explaining 2-by to people new to biking: I am just using it as two modes: big chain ring for flats and downhill (a.k.a. "road" mode), small chain ring when going uphill (a.k.a. "goat mode"). If you explain it like this, even the most thick customer should get it.
We’d have to do some math, but I’m gonna push back on cable having less energy impact than the battery.
When you use a cable, you’re using up the tensile strength of a piece of steel that then gets tossed.
When you use the battery, you’re using up the energy from the grid, and a little bit of your ability to store it.
I think that consuming 1Wh + battery degradation fueled by fire will consume less energy than the equivalent of how much goes into creating a cable divided by how much you can pull.
53:07 I have ‘aero bars’ if profile design wing 10a base bar count as aero, I have a bell on it, need to find the right mounting system
You can find bells which go on the stem and replace a 10mm spacer
Carbon Giant cross bike is my winter bike. Its perfect with extended ass saver. 10 speed mechanical works perfect.
Not killing my mech shifters.. XTR all the way and 105 works great for the cost. It still rocks.. no batteries and no laptop needed.. fix you shifting with basic tools. You guys got this one wrong. Love the rest of the show and I would love a titanium bike.
The vast (VAST) majority of bikes in the world are mechanical shifting and will be so forever. 100s of millions of city bikes, train station bikes, bangers on the farm, bikes for old folks, bikes for young folks will forever be mechanical. There is no universe that I can park a SRAM electronic shifting bike at a train station for a week and expect it to be there when I return.
Agreed
Bike shops LOVE disc brakes because of all the brake bleed service fees
@@bradtowne2305 true. Tried them went right back to rim. Rim brakes are just big disks anyway
They complain about GCN being out of touch one week and then spout crap like this the next which shows how far they're removed from the reality of your average bike owner. Just ridiculous.
But the only reason for the bike being stolen is technically due to people’s mentality and not because the bike is electronic shifting. Where I live, I’ve kept a Dura Ace di2 equipped bike unlocked outside of a train station and it was there when I came to pick it up 3 days later.
I bought a Spa cycles Elan Mk2 titanium, would probably take 40mm tyres, looks like an audax bike but is an all-round really, ticks all of Jimmy's boxes here, rides like you're on a sheet of glass. Got 4 season goodyear vector 700 - 32 tyres and first try on them I'm impressed up to now
Campagnolo 10, 11s mechanical with external cable routing. Rim Brake.
I do have Chorus 12s mechanical disc on Ti custom.
It just works .... there is no need to pay extra $$ & complicate a simple function of stopping & shifting gears.
The issue is wear on the drivetrain....If you're not dealing with salt, the frame is not the limiting factor, but grit will grind away caliper brake wheels, chains , derailleurs and cables. Here in the NW USA, we all have winter bikes with specifcally t the ability to run full mudguards and larger tire sizes. Gravel bikes with street tires are common here as winter machines.
I do love Nick but really if he 'knows nothing about mudguards', then maybe he shouldn't comment about them. The dirt doesn't drip down on to the components at all - the water and dirt is flung around the inside of the guard and drips out either end, well away from any parts. very little if any gets near the chain etc.
Flaps help discharge the water down low. Front and rear help keep down spray, I'd recommend those from RAW, available with reflective surface for added visibility.
Components being more dirty on bikes with guards is probably because they are actually ridden in the dirt and muck. I do maybe 2000 or more miles over the winter on a bike with guards, partly because I will go out in poor weather knowing I won't get soaked to the skin and filthy.
I'm with Nic, .... I have a Curve Titanium Belgie Spirit all road bike and just love it. (Australia)
Switching mechs with etap is exactly what I do my mtb has gx and cx has a 36t force mech. For racing I keep force but when I want to go for a technical gravel ride I borrow my gx mech, takes less than 10 mins to swap and reconfig the shifting in the app!
Intercompatibility and lack of planned obsolescence ie incompatibility between old and new di2 has to be SRAMs main strength.
you can repair alloy bike cracks by wrapping it in carbon and using a more flexible epoxy such as West systems G-flex. The youtuber Rahul was talking about it and unfortunately've had to do it myself once. You cannot weld it as rewelding makes everywhere around the join more fragile.
Ali CX bike (Kensis CX racelight), 105 speed 11 or 12, with full mudguard and 32mm Cont 4 season on Mavic Kysilum 😁 Get washed every ride not to sure why mud guards don't stop bottom bracket and me dry 🤯
Qbicle Tangent Fender is the best mudguard ,keeps you dry is light weight easy to remove., and does not detract from the bikes appearance if left on.
I'm not sure i agree with Nick that mudguards direct spray back onto the components. They do direct it back to the tyre, and the inside of the guards can get clogged up with dirt. They can also be suboptimal with rim brakes. But my components - RD, FD, chain, cassette are all much cleaner when using mudguards. Not to mention the rest of the bike and the rider and the rider's clothes. It does make cleaning and maintenance a pain though I agree.
Yes, and I don't think you actually need to clean your bike as often with Mudgaurds on, as they do protect the chain and components
I think defo the definition of a winter bike varies on region. My heavy winter bike is one I care less about and has winter tyres, but most importantly can handle the crazy winter wind here in Ireland 🇮🇪. I can't picture riding a lightweight carbon frame during a 40 kph crosswind
Good winter tires might be the Challenge Strada Bianca or something else from this brand or the continental contact speed. Only when it comes to gravel of course or light snow. Or get some thin Smart Sam from Schwalbe to be completely safe
Why is titanium the best??? If you have other metals, like aluminum stems, seatpost, threaded aluminum bb together with salt, its really not good. why should this be better the carbon? You have to use some kind of anti seize or carbon paste anyway.
Technically aluminum could be better, cause other components are mostly from the same material.
If i'm right, aluminum oxide is a very thin layer which could protect the aluminum underneath.
This morning's commute was -40C here in Canada. Mechanical 7 speed on a steel frame with rim brakes. 42mm studded tires. Too cold for anything electronic. Head unit has to go in my pocket as it will only last 20 minutes before the battery gives up. Lots of layers of clothing.
Love Panracer gravelkings, so fast, so much roll, reasonable grip, best feel ever.
I'd have to half-disagree on mudguards. the mostly horizontal parts of a full-length mudguard would rain mud over your hubs and transmission, but the mostly vertical parts just drain down the mud.
That is why I set up a cheap floating mudguard inverted: going towards the bottom bracket. That way, all the mud flinging towards the frame gets caught and drips down, protecting the paintjob, BB, and chainrings.
Bought a carbon record from wiggle....no harbo though! Had the pleasure of a super record cassette and chain. 12spd rim brake mechanical to go on a 953 frame. Looks and rides great.
Shimano all the way. You’re looking at this from the perspective of high end road bikes but Shimano absolutely kill SRAM and Campy (who don’t even have anything to offer) in the entry level market. Not just road bikes, but town and hybrid bikes. You know, bikes that the masses ride to get to work or to the shops etc. Tourney, Altus, Claris etc. all functions amazingly well, it’s tough and it’s cheap as anything. Only Microshift comes close really in that area and their cheap stuff still doesn’t match Shimano yet.
I set up my 2-by Di2 GRX in SRAM Style in Winter plus the full syncro mode for the front derailleur. So I do use normally only the bigger Buttons to shift through the rear mech easily and the front mech shifts at an specific point up- or downwards. Easy with thicker gloves and so fast and on point.
I do a variant of this - full synchro, and set the top of hood buttons sram style. Leave the normal paddle buttons as standard
I have a 20 year old Campy Centaur 10-speed road bike drivetrain, other than the chain (KMC), freehub (Mavic) and cassette (Shimano, re-spaced to match Campy indexing), on a rim brake Ti frame. The rest of the bike is Shimano and other brands. Built it up myself, obviously.
The shifting is fairly smooth although it does get clunky eventually, requiring a rebuild of the shifters, but they're nearly completely rebuildable so no issues there. I do it myself.
At some point I'll probably upgrade to electronic shifting, but no rush so I have plenty of time to decide which brand and line to get. It'll probably be up to 15-speed by then.
In my active years in road cycling i rode a Singlespeed Cyclocross as a winter bike. I live in northern Germany, so nasty weather over here. They often use sand and salt mix against ice on the roads which kills your drivetrain. So Singlespeed is cheaper to maintain. Often a lot of fun, but sometimes i regret it with heavy winds and stuff. But you got a workout with lesser kilometres and build up a lot of strength. When season came i was in much better shape than my buddies who rode indoor or went to Mallorca once a winter for training camps. Even after i sold all my fancy bikes i kept my OnOne pompino singlecross because it grew on me that much. I went to hell and back on that bike.
How about a discussion on the problem of getting a tubeless tire on a rim in the first place? I have been tubeless for the last five years and have had more rim/tire combinations that were a nightmare to mount than those that worked. Even then, trying to do it without tools is nigh on impossible.
Really enjoy your vids!
I've mounted multiple tubeless tires onto multiple wheels, some are easy (some are almost a piece of cake actually) and some are real stubborn.
My trick is to always ensure the bead is in the rim's valley and apply a constant pushing force with my palms to get the last bit of bead into the rim. I don't use tire levers to pry it in unless I have absolutely no choice, but I always do my best not to use them.
Tech best left on MTBs
Totally with you on the mudguards Jimmy. “PDW full metal fender” expensive but very adaptable and silent. Come with “buddy flaps”
Though my roadbike has had SKS full size plastic ones (with flaps) on it for years. They don't rattle and are very durable and lightweight.
We map the di2 1x to the hidden buttons under the hood. All of a sudden…. Ala sram! Easy to hit in gloves. No missing a shift.
Nick is the common sense Czar - period. When I come to England this summer I would love to buy a bike from him. Indestructible, get around the world machine. 8Speed Claris on a frame that clears 35c tires and take it on Pan Celtic Ultra.
The use of “Alloy” when (I think) you mean Aluminium Alloy is confusing.
Steel is an alloy, many of the varieties used in bike frame tubes are specifically alloy steels.
true story
@Bike Mechanic Nick, Crane Bell has one that attaches to the drop bar... so for those with aero bars that's an option.
To that alloy-bike-discussion... It's always also a question of quality used. There are different grades of aluminium and if you use lower grade the risk of alloy braking is just higher. I once had a Nukeproof bike that just broke without too much stress on the frame (like if you can't roll over the parking lot on an enduro bike it's a bit of a problem)... had taken it to an aluminium expert... he explained there are usually three grades of aluminium - the difference beeing how closeley they would inspect the material (eg every milimeter, every 5 cm, every 20cm) for voids etc... my frame was obviously from a lesser grade and broke on several different spots... yes you could weld it back (we actually did, would have cost about 1500€ if it wouldn't have been a friend...) but it would brake in another spot shortly after... broke next to my car - just right above the disc brake mounts... scary AF...
Long story short: Alloy can disintegrate catastrophically. Reparing Alloy is extremely expensive and complicated... and since there are already first applications of recycling carbon - I'm going for carbon...
For non-tubeless commuting and gravel I've yet to find anything that surpasses the Continental Travel Contact touring tyre in 1.75". Amazes me it isn't more popular.
For winter riding, if you are worried about chain widths and salt, why not pinion?
price maybe.