Ahhh the classic, "but honey I don't do drugs, I don't use hookers and I'm not an alcoholic..can I buy another bike" argument. Been using it for years!
I am the same, i like expensive bike stuff to $59 very small bottle of some new chain oil, i say SOLD: + you spend 2 days to degrese the new chain for another $30 bucks. We like it because we are men. A real man hobby has 2 main criteria. 1. There is no upper limits to be a nerd about it. 2. There is no upper limit price range. Examples: HIFI sound, Photo (cameras and shit) Cars. etc. etc.
Well done. I have used Silca Super Secret drip since early 2023. I also noted the inconvenience of hot wax chain removal every week (300 km interval). I simply decided to go with Silca drip wax 100% of the time. The main difference with my approach: I never remove the chain. Instead, I use a Pedros Chain Pig II to clean the chain monthly (on bike) and then use the Silca drip wax that I re-apply weekly. No worn-out quick links and the same 10000+ km chain life span that you are getting. My method saves about 100 hours a year. Silca drip wax costs $75 a bottle in Canada. I thought that was crazy expensive. After almost 2 years of weekly waxing (for six months per year), I am only half-way through the first bottle. I can live with that.
Similar story (used Squirt for years, now converted to Silca). The main difference between the two: - Squirt does not penetrate the rollers as well as Silca (exact place you want the lube). Silca has significantly less wear than Squirt (and astronomically less than Triflow). Squirt really needs warmer weather (20ish C or 70ish F) to lower its viscosity to penetrate as well as SIlca (used to have Squirt sit next to a kettle so I'd warm it while I wiped my bike down). - Silca is much easier to clean (especially if you ride in a lot of dirt/MTB). All you need is a kettle + boiling water which you pour over your chainring and pedal. Squirt (aside from buying expensive wax specific cleaners) would need both the hot water and a degreaser/chemicals to reset it as well as Silca + boiling water. I also found Silca lasted longer, especially in the wet/light moisture vs. Squirt and doesn't have all that waxy build up that occurs over time with Squirt.
Yo, been using Squirt for the last 5 years. Clean grease off new chain with mineral spirits then ultra sonic cleaner, amazing how much machining particulates are left on the bottom of the unit. Let it dry, then put on chain and add a light coat of Squirt. I've even used a heat gun on the chain while putting on Squirt to help drive it thoroughly into the links. As far as black pieces of was loading up after rides, one must be careful to put on just enough so you don't allow for excess wax to build up. Essentially applying too much Squirt on the chain will have you forever cleaning off the excess (the black pieces as referred to). For simplicity and cost, I'm staying with Squirt. Thank you for putting this together. Cheers All!
I apply the Squirt only to the rollers/inner/outer pin area, wait until the next day and wipe it off before my ride. Thanks for watching and subscribing.
Get TWO (or three) chains and rotate. Use the quick drip occasionally after a ride and cloth wipe down (leave overnight to set) to extend the ride time Then you can hot melt wax both together. Do it when you have a free day or so coming up, no stress. Just pop one off and put the other one on right away, ready to go. A beautiful system. *oops, just seen Shawns longer explanation below of something similar!
Great video and I can concur with nearly all of your findings and conclusions. I have been a Silca convert for a couple of years. I first switched to the Silca Synergetic product (their oil-based lube), then converted to the wax system. I have been on wax for almost 2 years. I am using the Silca products in a similar manner to your plan, however, with 1 key difference. I have 2 chains that I rotate. I prep both chains (immersive wax), I will run Chain #1 for a couple hundred miles ~ depending on riding conditions, this will typically be about 1 week of riding. I will then use the Super Secret to 'top off' Chain #1. I will repeat that process of using Super Secret (weekly) on Chain #1 for anywhere from 2 to 4 weeks. After 4 weeks (aprox), I will remove Chain #1 and install the already prepped Chain #2 and repeat the sequence with Super Secret. I then have anywhere from 2-4 weeks to do an immersive wax on Chain #1 before the next swap. With the 2-chain swapping system, given the almost zero-chain wear using wax, I can easily go multiple seasons on 2 chains. This helps to offset the generally higher cost of the waxing system vs. an oil-based lube. I am also pretty diligent about bike cleaning, so I will use a treated gear rag (Silca Gear Wips) and give my bike and chain a quick wipe-down after each ride. My plan then is to also do a full bike clean/wash on a weekly basis, however, that does not always get done weekly, sometimes every-other-week based on riding conditions. Finally, in an emergency situation, you can apply an oil-based lube over the top of a waxed chain, Silca describes doing this for a long/dirty events like Unbound, however, if you ever do that, the chain will need a full clean/strip and then an immersive wax. Once you have gone wax, you will never go back.
The part about the emergency situation was very informative. Thank you. Soon I'll have an ultra endurance 700+km ride and was wondering if I can apply the Silca Synergetic Wet Lube on top of the hot waxed chain if the weather conditions are bad and it's pouring rain.
@@blizztbs Glad I could help. If you look through the videos on the Silca YT channel, there are a few where this option is mentioned. If you had a scenario where you were off your bike overnight, you could top-off with Super Secret, that needs about 8 hrs to set before riding. As I noted, if you do put an oil-based lube over the top of a waxed chain, you will need to do a full 'reset' of the chain before waxing it again. I would start with some degreaser in a jar (shake)/repeat until clean, I would then pour some boiling water over the chain to strip/melt out any old wax, finally, if available I would give the chain a rinse in Isopropyl Alcohol to ensure it is fully clean before immersive waxing. Your other option would be to purchase a 2nd chain and just run Synergetic for the entire event. Synergetic is an amazing lube which tests nearly as good as the top wax lubes. I used Synergetic for a couple of years before switching to wax.
Before dipping the used chain, is anything done besides wiping it down with a dry cloth? Does it keep getting dipped in the same wax bath every other month with nothing but a dry wipe down first?
I did exactly the same thing as this video last year, and my conclusion was exactly the same. As you said, the change from oil to squirts was incredible, but the change from squirts to silca was almost nothing. I'm at the exact same spot now to where I'm hot waxing my chains once every 3-4 months but replenishing it with the drip on wax. I like the silca but when it runs out I'm going back to squirts. The additional cost and hassle of silca doesn't justify any marginal improvement in my opinion
Drip waxes do not provide the same long term protection of the drivetrain. An immersion is best because it penetrates fully, filling the rollers with wax, then pushing it out as you use it, along with acumulated debris. Drip waxes actually bond with any debris, coat them in wax, and bind them to your chain. (Those crusty bits that come off in the video) A hot melt wax ideally lasts 300km for the least amount of wear, you can stretch this to 600km if you dont mind wear on your cogs/cassettes. I wax mine 2x a month.
I bought cheap paraffin wax from Amazon and a women's wax heater for heating it up and immersing the chain. New chains get the cleaning (you can use cheap white spirits btw.) and immersion waxing. After that I mainly just use squirt wax after cleaning and once in a while I'll repeat the cleaning and immersion waxing - especially in winter when it's really wet here.
Hi from UK, I went all in on wax chain a few years back, it’s definitely worth any early extra work. I use an ultrasonic bath and engineering grade component degreaser to initially get chain cleaner, 2 x 30 min cycles changing the fluid and it’s done, then a quick rinse in 99.9% IPA, (it’s better) The biggest pain on the Silca is breaking waxed chain free but it’s not too bad. Here we have very wet and muddy winters so wax isn’t ideal, so I used it to see. A few extra big cleans through season but it’s still better than oil that turns to sludge. I did wear out a KMC chain after 5,000 miles of winter crud but I thought that was ok, I have done a Shimano chain in 800 miles. I am now also just using Morgan Blue drip wax to top up chain, absolutely fine to mix. KMC re-usable missing link will go 20 plus times easily. I always drop chain off to wash the gravel bike. Glad to see even the sunniest places get rain 🤣 👍
I think both Silka and Squirt wax can be used together without problem, because I have been using Paraffin wax with crock pot and Squirt wax for awhile and it works.
This guy is good. Some people are just made to be on air and this guy could be a broadcaster. Also the video was informative since I just dropped a ton of money on Silca immersive waxing products lol
Squirt is good. Silca is best. Both are fine if you arent racing bikes for money. A few extra notes: 1. Silca has less noises (likely due to better uptake on rollers). 2. Silca drys much faster, which i like if i need to wax in the morning before and afternoon ride. 3. You dont have to hot wax silca, they already put out a video saying 3 drips, then drys, is about 98-99% as good as hot wax. 4. You are applying the drip wrong, back pedal, and apply on the top just infront of the casette. Once the chain hits the casette it opens up the rollers a bit so the wax goes in better - especially with squirt because it doesnt go in a well at room temps. This is fussy, but so is silca 😅 5. The reason the silca cooker is great is because you dont over heat your wax, which can damage it - not just easy of use. 6. I use this on gravel in the north, in rain and snow. Chains aint gonna rust as long as you dry them indoors after. If it does, its so superficial it doesnt matter. I can confirm, you never see wear under 10k if you lube regular with wax - i use the KMC digital check to confirm this.
I have been using Molten speed wax. And a small $15 crook pot. About every 2 weeks, I take off and put it in the pot. Wax came in a puck form, 2 picks per pack. After a year, still on 1st puck. Probably last another couple of years. Still enough in pot to do 2 chains at once. Also have the Super Secret drip wax to use in between immersions. But it is so thick that it just seems to sit on top of the chain! So I use a hair dryer to heat and blow it into the links. That seems to work ok, otherwise I don't feel it is penetrating into the chain. But I will never go back to any other form of lube. To me, the biggest benefit is how clean the chain and the rest of drive train are.
Definitely a Squirt fan here, and like you.. have used it for many years. The difference for me is that it gets used on all of my bikes, so it is used on my road bike, but also on my mountain bike and fatbike. So lots more dirt involved, and on my fatbike... that bike goes through road salt in the winters, snow and anything else you can think about. The fatbike was the first bike that I tested Squirt on, and as you mentioned, the drivetrain lasts so much longer. Now I also will say that I do not take the chain off to clean it in between. I will spend a bit of time with a cleaner and a clean rag and that's it, although it generally is fairly clean when completed. Squirt is simply so much better than anything else I've ever used, and I'm a longtime cyclist and shop owner. I used to do the whole immersion process, and had great luck with it... but again, not to the extent that Squirt has had. I also wanted one application for all of my bikes, so it has been Squirt for everything. Thanks for sharing, and I'll be interested in hearing your results once you have some time with both lubes.
I'm a Silca waxer without a crock-pot. The one thing you forgot to mention was that the big bag of Super Secret doesn't need a wax warmer! The bag is designed to go into a pot of boiling water, and your chain goes in the bag. I use a coat hanger to pull the chain out and hang it to harden. There are several Silca videos out there that show how to do it. Easy Peasy!
Been a Squirt user for a few years and can attest to all you've said. Hate the build up of Squirt jam too. Have just secured my Silca and look forward to using it but will wait until I wear out the Squirt chain. Thx for your video and all the comments affirming the good decision.
Hello Adam, really enjoyed your video and my nodding cadence was about 90/min in agreement with your observations. Most of the comments you already received reflect my experiences with Squirt drip wax and Silca immersion wax. 1. Squirt is an excellent product as I have a couple of bikes with chains with over 10K & zero wear. 2. Degreasing a new chain to apply the Squirt wax is a pain. Although nowhere near as painful as replacing cassettes and chainrings. 3. Squirt makes a mess of the cassette and especially jockey wheels over time and they need to be cleaned regularly. 4.Squirt requires multiple applications to ensure optimum wax fills the gap between the pins & rollers. I have read from reliable sources that drip-on waxes usually will fill 75% of the gaps between pins & rollers on each application. I will usually apply 3 coats on new chain. 5. Squirt requires time to dry after each application, usually overnight. 6. Squirt is easy to find and easily transportable especially for multi-day rides. 7. Squirt does have a low temperature version available and cannot be combined with the regular version. I keep separate chains for each type wax. 8. Not sure i can use Silca during low temps in winter so will keep using Squirt for the colder temps. 9. Silca has the Strip Chip (which i have yet to try) which should eliminate the pain of degreasing new chains. 10. Silca fills the gaps between the pins & rollers 100%. 11. Hot water can be used to clean a Silca waxed chain. Tried hotwater on Squirt chains and is hard to tell how thoroughly the old wax is removed. 12. Over all the Silca system is a more thorough , easier and less messy method of chain waxing. Also easier to clean. Some users don't bother to clean before rewaxing, they just re-immerse the chain in the hotpot. 13. I have reused the standard quick links a least 10x's without any issue. So have no fear! Although I probably just jinxed myself and maybe recanting this part of the message after my next ride. 14. I typically reapply Squirt wax every 500k during optimal road conditions and every 300k during winter conditions. All on road. Will try the same for the Silca immersion wax and try to stretch it to 600-700k. Fingers crossed. 15. If the Silca immersion wax is as good or better than Squirt wax i will use Dura Ace chains on my Ultegra & 105 drivetrains. I'm sure that will further enhance my perception of going fast. Well, i think i covered all my experiences with chain waxing (take that Wikipedia). Good luck and please make a follow-up video.
Molten speed wax tests better for dry/dusty enviornments. Silca has higher friction with a freshly waxed chain, but holds its friction better in wet/muddy conditions. Info came from charts made from testing done by zero friction cycling.
I'm a silica guy through and through. Pricey...yes. Do I care when it comes to my bikes... No. I want the best I can get. Like the video host stated, cycling is my jam. It is what I love to do. And I am not splurging anywhere else in my life, but in my cycling.
I think i watched yours and other youtubers reviews on the Squirt more than a year ago. im still using it and it simply works for me. yes, it gest a bit dirty but wipping out with a cloth is not a biggy. for me its about less faff. Never back to oil due to the mess of cleaning. Hot pot to wax every 200km? no way, this will be for me every 4-7 days. You said it right, it has to be found easily, easy to apply and clean. what i´ve learn in other channel is to clean the chain (on the bike) pooring Hot water on the chain. it will melt the wax and remove it. later you can use a WD 40 to remove all the water and re-apply the squirt. i do this every 1 or 2 months and its working great. cheers
You're doing it right. Using the wax drip to maintain after the initial immersion is exactly what Silca recommends. They don't expect you to clean and re-immerse in hot wax every week. Josh (the Silca CEO) has several videos on their UA-cam site going over their recommended process.
If you ride 300km a week, 3 chains will let you wax every other week. If you ride 150km a week (me) you can run 2 chains and wax every other week, or if you wax on an off day, you only need 1 chain. This is to keep the system in an ideal state, you can double the numbers if you dont mind some wear. Also based on zero friction cycling test data. Molten speed wax is the best performin wax for dry/dusty climates. Silca is best for wet/muddy environments.
Been waxing with grocery store paraffin for years now, although I have been alternating between lubrication methods. Grocery store paraffin does not last long (approx. 200 miles) and is soft enough to collect dirt. Squirt is even worse regarding dirt collection, although I had not contemplated the approach of never cleaning a Squirt lubricated chain with solvent (i.e. just wiping and reapplying), but that dirt gets on cassette and chainrings too. Same for T-9. I just tried MSpeedwax and it appears to last much longer than grocery store paraffin, but it has MoS2 so it is dark and I can't tell if it is collecting dirt, plus I just installed a new drivetrain so it's not a fair comparison. Note that being anal retentive and having access to a vacuum chamber, I vacuum infuse the wax into my chains. Although this makes waxing even more time consuming, but waxing and vacuum infusing at work is safe. I am worried that if I wax at home and I forget and leave the crock pot on all night in my shop I might burn my house down. My current plan (for better or worse) is to wax, touch up with Clean Ride for another 3-4 rides, then oil with my homebrew chain lube (5-20 wt motor oil with a friction modifier added), then clean drivetrain and repeat. I contend that there is no good way to lubricate a chain. It's either small maintenance frequently or big maintenance less frequently. $45 for an 8 oz bottle of Silca Super Secret Chain Wax? That's obscene! The cheap SRAM 1051 chain I just replaced had 13k miles, had probably been removed 50+ times, and I always used the original master link(s). A problem was the chain was so worn the rollers on the end links would fall out when I removed the chain and the little buggers can be hard to find. I tried replacing this chain two years and 6,000 miles ago, but my cassette was too worn and it skipped cogs so I decided to keep running it.
Enjoyed your video. I haven’t tried the Silva products, but I’ve switched to squirt on all three of my bikes: Mtb, gravel, and road. I’m not sure what you’re referring to. Puzzled when you said it took you a whole day to prep a new chain. I used mineral spirits, muck off drivetrain cleaner, then dish detergent. After thoroughly drying the chain, I hang it next to a dehumidifier and the whole process takes less than an hour, other than waiting a little bit to apply the squirt to make sure everything is dry on the chain. I write about 150 miles a week and find that I only need to reapply squirt every 2 to 3 rides depending on conditions, and of course, I wipe my chains down after every ride.
Talk about Squirt black gunk. You should see the mess under a bike used on a Turbo trainer. Love the lack of smell and the lubrication but the black stuff is a mess.
I run Silca Synergetic on the trainer. I'm riding indoors about 4hrs a week and reapply every 6 weeks or so. 10,000miles and the chain still measures as new and it's extremely clean because you barely use any. They got rid of their needle applicator because people were breaking them. If I break mine, I'll buy my own needle applicator. It's extremely good at giving you the smallest drops. I'm less than 1/3 done with my bottle too. It's hilarious how long it lasts and I'd happily pay over double if I knew it would last so long when I bought it
@veganpotterthevegan on my road bike I use synergetic indoor and out, because in clean conditions there is no downside to using synergetic. But on gravel and cyclocross I use wax pot. That said, silca synergetic does have a nasty oil smell after application, but I guess that also shows its high quality. Going on a turbo trainer after application does not feel all too pleasant to my nose
You can mix squirt and super secret. So when you forgot the super secret you can buy the sqirt anyways. In my opinion the super secret gets a bit better into the chain. But at double the price everyone has to decide themselves.
I'm 100% converted: two chains, waxed every two, two-and-a-half weeks. So no need for cooking weekly. One hint from wax manufacturer: instead of whole cleaning process every week, just put your chains on a sieve and use 1L boiling water. Rinse the chains lying on the sieve by pouring boiling water over it. This is working surprisingly well, making the whole process much less painful. Valid point regarding quick link wearout, just buying a few replacements from Shimano.
I have been using squirt for a while and i find it just doesnt last very long on rides. Im going to try waxing this weekend. Looking forward to comparing.
Hello Doc, enjoyed the video, like you I've been using Squirt for yeeeeears, great stuff. I have roughly the same routine as you, I wipe the chain with a cloth after long rides to get rid of the black wax buildup and reapply a thin coating making sure the fresh squirt penetrates as much in the rollers as possible. When my chain gets too gunky with the black residue, usually after 6-8 weeks of riding, instead of removing the chain off the bike and cleaning it in the crock pot you mention, I leave it on and wash it with park tool chain cyclone chain scrubber - or equivalent from other brands- with a healthy dose of fairy liquid and boiling water in it... once the chain is clean I rinse the detergent off properly with clean water, wipe it and let it dry completely until its ready for re-application ..it's probably not the recommended method but never had any chain issues, my chains last around 10k as well on my road bikes, riding in here mucky Uk all seasons of the year.. it solves the issue of the quick-link that can only be used 3 times and having to a buy an expensive Connex one. All the best, Mat
I recently made mistake to by the "Super Secret" of Silca and was totally disappointed - it was same as Squirt, but just a bit more liquid. It had shorter life on my chain than Squirt. But I do not agree with you on durability of Sq in rain - I found that it is washed away very quickly. Recently I had to take part in a rainy road bike event, and asked for advice. I bougth Muck Off lube and it was definitely smoother and longer lasting than Squirt, but the chain needed more cleaning with it. So what I do: Dry weather - Squirt. Rainy - a good lube. Never again - Super Secret.
Yeah, as soon as there's rain, I can hear the chain start to rattle with Squirt after a while. Oil was better in this regard, but much worse in terms of gunk build up. At least with Squirt you can relatively easy remove the dirt / black stuff, with oils this was a nightmare.
Well I bought new Bike with all the newest Tech. I bought all the silka Stuff and so far Im happy. Did the iniial hot wax and now Im just using the super secret wax coating . I rode a 160 miles last week and I sure do have a lot of black stuff on my chain. Im hoping its remnits of the strip chip. But I didn’t watch the video good enough. I guess I was supposed to do three coating , one coating after each of 3 rides. Then you can ride a some distance before the next application. I also put 300 miles not km"s onmy first hot waxing.
Same experience going from oil based chain lube to Squirt: Dramatic difference. I am also a cycling nerd with one hobby (bikes) but you won't catch me dead waxing my chain! THAT marginal gain can be achieved riding 5min more on my bike /week! Easy maintenance makes you faster! Thank for the video!
marginal gains aside, lower wear an the drive train, quieter operation, less grime, less dirt, and much, much less maintenance are all great reasons to wax, but going from an oil based lube to wax, i can assure you, it was way more than a marginal gain
I clean up my chain in 3 Gatorade bottles; one with Varsol (paint thinner), one of degreaser + water, one with 99% isopropyl alcohol. You just shake it real good for 5 minutes for each bath. I used to apply Squirt in a flat bath overnight. I then bought: a small crock pot, paraffin candle wax, WS2 (tungsten disulfide) nano powder and TPFE (Teflon) nano powder. After 2 1/2 years I am still using the same initial batch of paraffin + WS2 + PTFE that I have been using. If no rain I can go 400-450 km between re-waxing. I still have paraffin, WS2, PTFE for another 10-20 years maybe more. Nothing beats a freshly waxed chain.
@@cyclinginsoutherncalifornia It's a bit of research at the beginning to figure out what size of powder to use. But everything becomes routine after a short while. I bought from Aliexpress 500g of 1 micron (1000 nanometer) PTFE powder and 500g 99% WS2 0.8 micron (800 nanometer). I used 15g of each powder in my initial hot wax batch that I have been using since, so I will have some for quite some time. I should have bought smaller size PTFE but I couldn't find it at the time or the smaller size was a lot more expensive, I cannot remember. But everything works. I also mix a small amount of WS2 and PTFE with the Park Tool performance grease I use. It works wonders for cup and cone bearings.
The best thing for me is the ability do use SSS with hotwaxed chains. In the summer I don't need it but during the fall and winter when the roads get salted it is ideal to wipe the chain clean and dry and then add and wipe SSS. It's just to protect from rust and salt on the outside. And indeed on holiday one should not forget the bottle. Expecially since a waxed chain needs reapplication after 300k if not less. I'm really not bothered by dry residue under my trainer since it's easy to vacuum. I also started with squirt and now have 5 bottles left wich I can't seem to get rid of.
Good video! I have always dunk waxed my new chain once per chain life. Lemon Pledge on a fiber cloth when cleaning my bikes. Recently I started adding Squirt Lube after my Pledge clean. I have no other hobbies either. No chain noise, perfect shifting.
I’ve been very happy with MSpeedwax, which I started using this year. One note on wax intervals. Most of the manufacturers seem to recommend 300k as top performance (low friction and almost forever chain life). But say 500-600k will still provide most of the benefits. I’m rotating 2 chains each on three bikes as others have commented, and that helps with convenience.
I also moved onto the Silca wax system. OMG massive difference from Triflow I was using in the past. I will never go back to chain lube. Here's a tip. Invest in another chain or two. When one needs waxing, swap it out with a back up chain that is waxed. When that one is done, wax them both and off you go. Don't worry too much about the quick links. They are very durable. I have some as back ups just in case. You'll know when the quick link is toast. It will know longer have a distinct click when putting it back on. My quick links have been used many times. No worries. Also, there is a Wax by a German company called Optimize. They claim a waxed chain will last 800-1000KM's!!! I will order some and try it. Their wax contains Graphine where as Silca's is a Tungsten base of sorts. The Graphine I expect is what is longer lasting.
I transitioned from Squirt to Effetto Mariposa FlowerPower Wax (when replacing a new chain). It is fantastic. Let's say 50% more clean and I only reapply every ~600km. Had a long ride in heavy rain in the mountains and nothing happened to the chain.
@@cyclinginsoutherncalifornia too much Squirt you put, not a simple thing, that how much, with imersive it is resolved, at least is homogenic and biased by temperature only. But Mariposa has nice valve for Flower Power and ZFC also confirmed that initial is much better then Squirt where Squrit is missing, penetration due to the high viscosity
Hard to believe. Riding mixed terrain with my gravel bike, mostly asphalt, after like 100 km of riding with the FlowerPower Wax chain starts to get noisy and not as smooth so I tend to reapply. On other hand it is been told that waxed chain isn't as smooth and quiet as the one with oil lube applied to. I tend to overuse this product because I want that smooth and quiet action.
@@andrejgarbar7180 One reason I can think of is that existing lubricant applied is not thoroughly stripped off, so wax could not penetrate and stick to the chain. I always start with a new chain soaked in hydrocarbon cleaner for couple of weeks. It's quite possible that an old chain can't be thoroughly cleaned. Regarding noise, before Squirt I was using Finish Line Dry and I found it more quiet with Squirt. Flowerpower basically performs as quiet as Squirt. I still use Finish Line Dry on my folding bike and the difference is quite obvious.
I just bought the ebike squirt wax low temp (Green bottle) to try it on my new bike, never used squirt before but know it's for longer lasting whare as the muc off and ceramics need done after every 4hrs or every ride
I went on this exact journey and now full wax bath on new chains and then reapply every few hundred miles. I use silca in the wax pot but in between I use squirt. I guess that is how I manage time and cost. Great video I enjoyed it very much!
used Squirt since 2015ish.. then moved to speedwax via crockpot and now Silca wax with the chip when the chain in new, but in between I use CeramicSpeed UFO drip then re-wax 1 per month.
I went from oil to waxed and then to Squirt. I have stayed with squirt. Just like the ease of use and the bottle is easy to throw in my bag when I travel with my bike to new riding locations.
That's exactly what I do, hot wax my chain whenever I judge it needs it and depending on the weather use squirt as a top up. I also reuse the quick link maybe 3 or 4 times, it's a judgement call.
Did the Silca hot wax treatment and prep protocol on new chains. I top off every few weeks with Mariposa Flower Power. Very pleased. I'm retired and don't mind faffing around on my bikes. BTW did use Squirt quite a while on unprepped chains. Lots of waxy build up on jockey wheels and in between chainrings. Very little now. Cheers from Italy.
If you are wondering how long your chain would last on Silca, compared to Squirt, you can check the independent test results from Zero Friction cycling. Based on his tests, its not even close - you can expect more longevety from Silca, especially for hotmelt wax vs drip on.
@@alienlivingform I want to see the results after real world riding and learn myself. Lab results are under controlled conditions so that gives us a baseline, but I want to ride in dirt and weather and see what happens. Same in healthcare. Stuff looks good in research but doesn’t always pan out when you do it to real humans.
@cyclinginsoutherncalifornia I get that, and totally agree. Would be interesting if you make a follow up video after couple of months with your findings 🙂
@@alienlivingform I’m going to make that video once I have enough miles on the chains to make a difference. Too often I see videos where they compare in one month. For me that isn’t enough time. Subscribe and wait…
I’ve bought so many oils, waxes, drip waxes over the past few years that I think I might have a problem (add it to the list). With drip waxes like Squirt or Tru-Tension, I always get a build up of black “cheese” on the derailleur jockey wheels that I find quite disconcerting. I’m not sure if it has a negative effect on performance or shifting, but it does bug the hell out of me. If I hot wax the chain, then I don’t get this build-up and the chain seems super quiet. I ride road and MTB in the UK, so the chain is subject to a combination of wet and dry conditions. In Southern Spain, I ride eMTB in dusty, arid conditions. Finding the best lube for the job is a PITA, and I know I’m overthinking this massively! 😂
I use the oz cycle methods. I live in a dusty dry desert area and wax is the best. I just use squirt lube in between wax immersion when I don’t have time and about once every 2-3 weeks I take off the chains and wax all my bikes chains at the same time. Once you get the system down to a science it’s pretty easy so much better than the dirty oiled chain old days.
I dip the chain & top up with the super secret drip for about 3000 miles. They also sell a chain/disc brake degreaser that gets the crud out without fully killing the wax. I also have a second chain that I keep waxed & ready(that I hot melt when I have spare time). The quick links i use a couple of times even though shimano says not to. I know it seems like a lot but it feels like the semi lazy/frugal way to marginal gains! Also I hate a dirty chain!
I have used Squirt for many years, now I am trying different chain lube like Blub Graph or Momum Wax. I think that is a big deal to have to disassembly the chain every 2-300 kms, use a pan, etc.. I am not so "pro" even when I do a lot of kms, I prefer less performance but more confort. Great video.
When I used oil on a cross-country bike with Shimano transmission, mostly for competitions, the chain was done after 10-15 rides, no more than 500 kilometers. The cassette lasted a bit longer. After I used Squirt for one season on 12 speed SRAM Eagle transmission, I decided to check the chain wear. The wear indicator showed no wear at all. I am still not sure if SRAM components are so much better than Shimano or the wax is that much better.
I use squirt but apply before every BIG ride. I apply to each roller and use the clutch to slacken the chain so the lube can penetrate. Leave it to dry then release the clutch. So far 2150 miles on same chain and sprockets
I've done both for 4 years now. I started like you with Squirt, but changed to my own homemade wax, like the OZ video. Then two years ago I swapped to Silca. Now I still clean my chain with the first method you described, as in when it's new. I don't just put it in petrol overnight, then on day 2, two times with 90% IPO. Then I do a clean with fairy liquid and boiling water. Slowcooker with the silca wax. Drip between rides for 1 month. Then once a month clean the chain with fairy liquid and boling water. Slowcooker and back to dripping it on after each ride. I get 25000K on a chain and cassette. The chainrings are still around 10000K. When I go away from home I have even used Squirt on the silca prepared chain, but then I come home and clean the chain with fairy liquid and back in the crock pot. easy....
@@cyclinginsoutherncalifornia Sorry I see a typo! I wash a new chain in petrol overnight, just leave it in a jam jar and shake it a few times when you pass by, but 24 hours is ideal. Then the wrest of the description is correct.
Great vid! I have been wondering about the difference between silca and squirt as well, very cool to see your video covering all the questions I had. I'm currently running oil on some bikes, and squirt on some others. I did just order some silca drip wax but not the immersion wax, and once the oil chain reaches the end of its life I'll replace it with a waxed one. Also one thing that some people with immersion waxed chains do is they have a few chains that they wax at a time and then they cycle through those chains over the course of a month or so. Rotating through a few chains means that you only have to quickly swap them most of the time, and once a month you immersion wax all the chains at once, saving time overall. Constantly rotating the chains as well means that they wear very evenly with the cassette and chainrings, and with how long waxed chains last it means a few chains rotated through will likely last years.
If you're only going to be using the Silca drip wax a tip to get the best from it (from their website) is to apply the wax 3 times (one after each ride) and then it will almost be as good as an immersive waxing. I think he says about 97% as good.
i' ve been mixing silca and squirt and it worked well. Normally I put the chain each month in the silca wax bath and then I use secret chain wax, or when on holyday I use squirt and no problem.
the connex link does not rely on a snapping mechanism and therefore does not wear out due to opening and closing. that's why you need a connex chain for immersion waxing. Removing the chain on a 1x drivetrain is as easy and quick as getting dressed in the morning
Spot on. I agree with everything you said and follow a similar protocol. Independent tests have shown that longevity of components is extended using Silca drip wax over Squirt but I suspect that the increased cost of Silca balances out the savings made on the components. I have moved to Silca exclusively now but would happily use Squirt is that was al I had available. *one observation, I reuse my Shimano quick links until the chain dies. I’ve NEVER had one fail on me.
Full disclosure, I'm a bike nerd. Ok, so now I've got that out of the way lets get nerdy ! I've been waxing my chain for quite a while now, and I've ended up using the silca wax as it just seems to stay on the chain for way longer than all the others I've used. The Absolute black wax came close, but I just found the silca hung in there for longer. During the winter months it can become a bit of a pain keeping the drivetrain waxed, so I decided to mix waxing with periodic use of "Muc-off chain wax". I've not used Squirt, but I'll take a look.
I also used the regular oil based wet lube in the past. It really ate up chains and cassettes - and I just thought it was normal wear. Of course it was very grimy too. So I went to Rock N Roll Gold. Much better! Chain and cassette was always sparkling clean and I got twice the mileage than previously. Then I started doing deep solvent cleans every so often and noticed I was getting a lot of black junk out of the inside of my chain. Normal? I let it settle and put a magnet to it. It was nearly all magnetic! That was my chain and cassette!!! Went to Silca hot melt alternating with their drip wax. Usually hot melt at ~200 miles, but go up to 500 with a few applications of drip wax in between. Then I do a boiling water rinse. I don't find any magnetic residue after this wash. I have not worn out any chains yet with wax. That first ride after a fresh hot melt wax - OMG!
Wife: "So you want a crockpot for your birthday but you're not going to make dinner with it ... um, okay whatever." I've been using a straight paraffin immersion and maintaining it with Squirt. It seems to work fine. I'm going the lazy route and only taking the chain off twice a year. It gets near freezing in the winter here so I use a 50/50 paraffin oil/ paraffin wax mix for the winter months and it works well. One of these days I'll probably try the silca wax/lube. The strip chip sounds amazing. Can't recall if I need the temperature control for that, but I'll check it out when the time comes.
I used squirt on my mtb, but in my country the humid and dusty weather gets the chain black quite fast, a lot of wiping and reapplying was required. Now I'm using silca oil based synergetic, very little needed, zero friction cycling says each application lasts 500-1000km and the chains last long. Not as clean as wax, but much easier to use and 1 bottle lasts years at my 5000km/year mileage.
Because of your earlier squirt wax vid, I switched to squirt e- bike wax. I have 2 e-bikes & 2 regular bikes. I use the same squirt on all chains. Love it. But my LBS said recently that my chain was very dry. I told them it was wax. No further comment. Yes squirt builds up a bit but not changing lubes Sticking with squirt. Mainly for $$ & most LBS carry some form of it
Have noticed that finishline now has a wax lube as well. And a few others. Wonder how finishline wax lube compares to squirt or silca. Have been using Silca for a few months now and no complaints. I use the chip for new chains as well. All good
Fully agreed, having experienced the same grand improvement with Squirt; likewise, having switched to Silca. We have the problem in Atlanta, GA of not finding Squirt on bike shop shelves. Silca was chosen as the one wax based lube in the one shop that carried such, found in a Specialized shop in East ATL.
The wax you are using has a tungsten disulfide additive (it is written right on front of the package) which is that dark grey stuff you are wiping off.
Great insight on the difference! Been using Squirt for a year now and felt a bit mislead with the amount of "greasy" looking flakes coming off but now it all makes sense Will try Silca soon any way as the indoor use of the bike prompts me to search for the cleanest solution I can get
I’m a fan of Silca wax, I never had any issues with removing and reattaching my KMC 11 speed master link. I only have to clean up my mountain bike a little more often but most time I wipe down. Sometimes running hot water to remove dirt and reapply the Silca drip wax. I don’t see any reason to buy the crock pot. I just use and old pot and do several chains at once. I definitely think Squirt is the next best thing and have friends that always use that product. The only difference I see is that waxing with Silca wax has the ability to coat the chain rings and cassette really nicely.
Hey friend… I’ve been using Squirt for years now, and totally understand the bit of trash it creates in between. However… another little step I add (occasionally) to your already mentioned… is taking my 1.5 hex and pushing a tee-shirt size cotton material in between each link. It does take a few extra minutes… but definitely leaves the chain looking immaculately clean again! Another possible note of interest… in rebellion to “designed obsolescence” and giving up simplicity… I still ride my beautiful 2013 Tarmac Pro… complete with rim brakes, mechanical SRAM Red 10 and 404 Firecrest (tubed) wheels! Yet… I’m always being complimented on rides for having the cleanest, sharpest looking bike (even from those who don’t know me)! Though… in truth, it’s first and foremost the “blinding pop” that’s always coming from my silver chain and cassette 😊
I used just white candle paraffin for 4 years and tried Silca a few months ago. There are some differences in how the wax feels, Silca is a lot harder, stickier on the metal and leaves a slippy residue on the fingers, but durability-wise I get the same 500-800 km out of one waxing. I also got 20000 km out of an Ultegra chain with candle paraffin, so wear resistance is adequate, too. I use Squirt as a refill on trips and vacations. A 10 ml eyedrop bottle of Squirt is good for 3 lubrications. My impression is that Squirt leaves this soft, sticky, gummy residue, on the chain, jockey wheels and the sprockets, whereas the immersion paraffin leaves residue which is a lot harder. I think the whole blank slate chemical clean of the chain before immersion waxing is some misunderstanding or a hoax. A full degrease is necessary for the water-based wax lube like Squirt, but the molten paraffin is a mix of hydrocarbons, just like the factory grease is, just as the mineral spirits are, they all dissolve in each other no problem. For a new chain, I do one wash in mineral spirits, then just put it into paraffin and maybe let it soak for a bit longer, agitate it by taking out and putting back in a few more times than normal. Even if the first application is somewhat softer and weaker that way, I don't care, I'll just repeat the application in a few weeks. It only takes 20 minutes.
Cool video. I upgraded to Squirt about a year ago. I love it. Lately, I have been experimenting with Oz Cycling self-wax formula. It doesn't seem to last long enough... I am currently on vacation, so I brought my trusty bottle of Squirt along!
I used Squirt for several years, before switching to Hot wax but I had the Silca system for Fathers day earlier this year... I immersion wax my chain approx every 3 months, with squirt/SSS top ups every 2 weeks, starting after about 6 weeks after immersion. My current chain has done appx 9,000 miles, and still only about 0.5 wear - will probably change it for the winter (about 12,000 miles or 2.5 years). With 3 dips per year, and a chain lasting two years, no need to worry about quick link Just remember to a) drip wax the night before riding to allow it sime to set, and b) dry chain if riding in wet conditions (so avoud slight surface rust) The biggest difference I found with Silca hot wax v cheeper haot wax was how quick it was to 'bed in' the freshly waxed chain, the cheeper wax took about 30 miles before it was quiet and changed gear as efficiently as it shoul, the silca chain is 100% ready in as little as 5 to 10 miles! With oil based lubrication I used two chains per year and wore my cassette out in 3 years, and my chain rings after about 5 - all adds to the cost, and makes waxing more cost effective in the long run.
I have 4 hot waxed chains I rotate. Before I switch I tend to apply Silca secret wax about 3 times. When the 8 oz bottle is finished I may go back to using squirt in its stead. Have seen tests that point out its best to use squirt on a chain that's been hot waxed because it takes awhile for squirt to get fully imbedded in the links
Why Super Secret has that strange consitency ? Every chain I have behaves like "Silca-fobic" (silca super secret doesn't stay on it, however other waxes/lubes don't have that problem) ? even after cleaning them, or should I clean in some specific spirit ?
I switched to Silca immersion wax 10 months ago. I haven't even emptied the whole bag into the crock pot yet. There's at least a third of a bag still to be used. I have enough in the crock pot for numerous uses, still. I have two chains that I rotate.
New subscriber! I am still in the dark ages using old school lube. Been considering wax. Had to laugh about your San Diego story, I spent extra time prepping my chain for the SD Gran Fondo a few years ago using ceramic lube for "dry conditions". I rained for the first 30 miles. Ruined my chain and cassette that day. This vid has pushed me over the edge... gonna give wax a try. Appreciate the info and love your style!
For fellow cyclists on the Squirt boat, give Smoove a try. No flaking residue, smooth and quiet chain, maybe lasts slight longer per lube. (Never tried Silca, can't comment)
true, and depends on chain(or not?). Ive been using Smoove with various chains, all year round. With every other chain, mileage is soso. with Sram XX1 chain, infinite, seems like...(10000km+)
I've pretty much arrived at the same protocol. Only difference, and I know zero friction cycling says you can just dip the dirty chain in the wax, but I run hot water from the kettle and dry it with the air compressor first. It just gives me the feel goods of not adding too much contamination into the wax pot. I have no proof this actually makes a difference or matters though
@@own3dv1ru5 my understanding is that you will lessen the likelihood of having a layer of junk at the bottom of your wax… so the wax in the pot should stay cleaner for longer. Kind of like a bathtub.
I've use squirt wax. I bought a Shimano chain from Amazon (came in Shimano box but could be a fraud). It came to me with .2-.25 wear on it. After riding about 1600 miles with Squirt wax, it's at .5 wear on my 9 speed drivetrain. I replaced it and bought a new one (yes, I know I can go to .75, but I'm going to get a few chains, wear them down to .5, then start to use the .5 chain until it gets to .75). I reapply squirt once a week, about every 80-120 miles. I wish I had the same durability that you are experiencing, but I don't.
@@cyclinginsoutherncalifornia Yes I did, I enjoy your thought process. If you really want the best, how about trying Silca's graphene wax... it's very expensive, $300 for a tub of it.
Paraffin + ptfe and your set add a small squeezy bottle and your set for your travels too. A 120ml bottle will cost you under $1. And if your ride a lot it can add up. I think if you ride under 100km a week Silca makes sense
Went from Squirt to Effetto Mariposa liquid wax, much cleaner and longer lasting than Squirt... can not be bothered with hot wax mess. ;-) Biggest difference is no wax particles when indoor riding...
Thanks for sharing, I got the finish line ceramic wax chain lube you recommanded in earier video and wondering which one is better compare to squirt chain lube.
You can oil a waxed chain, no problem. I bring a tiny bottle in my jersey pocket for longer races. You just need to thoroughly clean the chain before rewaxing afterwards. A waxed chain is noisier than oiled chain. I have 12 chains for my 3 bikes - I just take one out and put a new chain, in a matter of seconds - quicker than oiling. Using more chains on a drivetrain prolongs its life. Rewaxing 8+ chains together takes the same time as 1 chain. Drip wax is fine in between rewaxing, but I'd never use it on a race, there I always put the best chain with a fresh wax on it. Warming up for the race usually breaks the chain to its optimal performance. For the most important races I also put a new quicklink, and reuse it on the other chains later.
"You can oil a waxed chain, no problem. I bring a tiny bottle in my jersey pocket for longer races." Wait, what? A waxed chain needs oil added to make it through ONE race? This waxing-cult thing's a bigger scam than I thought! :-)
I use the Silca Super Secret Chain Coating, I did the on the bike chain stripper method, according to Josh's video on the Silca channel that method is very close to the immersion method if you apply it twice with a wait between applications I'm not a fast rider or normally go far, I ride to work and errands and the occasional just for fun ride and so far its been working fine I don't have any mileage to wear data I just don't keep track of those things I check my bike over before I ride and once a month I check my bike over, chain wear, bolts, wipe it down and lube the chain, the only thing is supposedly if you apply SSCC you should wait 24 hours before riding, for me its more like 12 hours Overall I'm fine with it.
If going for a drip wax, i suggest UFO drip for dry/dusty climates, or silca super secret for wet/muddy environments. Based off test data from zero friction cycling. (The chain wax wizzard!)
If you can't find the Silca for a top off just use whatever other wax drip on you can find. You can use oil in a pinch, but then you'll just have to clean everything again.
My bike (bought in 2023) pretty fortunately camera from the factory with wax applied, since then I've been using squirt wax and also have friends riding their waxed chain for 20k km+, not looking to go back to oil, but I think from a convenience standpoint I'm gonna stick to that over hot waxing. Side note, don't say you want to be sponsored, in that moment you're basically already promoting the product, making it obsolete for the company to give you money for it :)
I use Silca’s immersion wax at the start, then their drip wax. I ride over 230 mi/week (380 km) and after a 1000 mi (1600 km) I use the immersion wax again. Rinse and repeat.
Similar experience here: (Riding MTB/Gravel in sandstone area also in wet/muddy conditions) Regular Chain oil: horrible mess, the cheapest one ate up an E-MTB chain during winter in about 1000km. Squirt: - no more immediate mess - Chains lasting well so far (Gravel ~3000km and going, MTB >2000km and going) - But Wax residue buildup is still a minor issue (black wax spots on floor tiles, wax buildup on derailleur wheels, cassete, chainrings)) - Smooth failure over ~20km after >150km. Reapplication during gravel ride at least possible (though overnight drying still recommended). Tried Super Secret, too: - Application a bit cleaner - Quick catastrophic fail during bikepacking: within 10km in wet/muddy singletrack from well-lubed to a squeaky mess. Had to buy Oil at the next LBS as I had no spare with me. - Seems even "runnier" thant Squirt, I guess the 8 hour drying time is not a joke. Conclusion: - I'll use up that (expensive 39€) Silca bottle on my road bike, and stay with Squirt. - Squirt is more for the offroad/dirty "common man", does the 80/20 principle. - Silca is for the high-end roadbike fan squeezing out the last few percent.
I still search a "cheap" wax solution. Last 2 years, I used melted candle wax mixed with PTFE powder. Am I happy? Not so. Sure, it's better than any oil. Chain has pretty much no wear, after 5000 kilometers, but becomes dirty - just the same as you showed - after application of the Squirt. Silca might be next step...
Ive seen great things from it on zero friction data charts. I feel its best used as a top up for molten speed wax. This combo seems like it wil provide superior results from ideal to dry dusty conditions. Silca's wax performs better in wet, muddy, extreme conditions. Silca has more friction with a fresh waxing than molten speed wax.
I switched from Smoove/Squirt drip-on to Silca immersion waxing about 3 years ago. I have never bothered with a oil chain l,ube & have only used wax based drip-ons. I have noticed that immersion waxed chains feel cleaner & that the immersion waxed chain sounds somewhat quieter than pure drip-on (but suspect that is "wishful thinking" as I do not measure that), but the real difference is a measurable increase in lifespan for cassette & chain with an immersion wax treatment compared to drip-on only. I have not tried the Silca cleaning pod yet, so still clean my bicycle chains using the chemical process (gatorade bottle) & then flashing with a high % alcohol as per Zero Friction Cycling which does take about a day & which I would do anyway for drip-ons. I do not use a slow-cooker for waxing - just the boil -in-the-bag Super Secret wax in a pot of hot water. I initialy tried rewaxing every 200 miles (2 x per month) but that wore out quick links way too fast, so now I use a drip-on wax (Super Secret, Smoove or Squirt) to top-up between rides & only re-wax every 3 months (around 1,800km). I am getting at least 2 x distance out of a road cassette & chain before showing even 0.5% wear using this approach - i.e. immersion wax & wax drip-on top-up compared to drip-on only! I recently switched my MTB over from pure drip-on to the immersion waxing/drip-on top up & although I still need to confirm improvement it is approaching the 2 x distance mark for chain / cassette with less than 0.5% wear measured on the chain so this seems to be consistent for my limited sample set. I am not advocating marginal gains in speed, watts saved, etc but the 50% savings on cassette / chain replacement costs cannot be denied for essentially the same effort.
Ahhh the classic, "but honey I don't do drugs, I don't use hookers and I'm not an alcoholic..can I buy another bike" argument. Been using it for years!
Sounds like mother may I
I am the same, i like expensive bike stuff to $59 very small bottle of some new chain oil, i say SOLD: + you spend 2 days to degrese the new chain for another $30 bucks. We like it because we are men. A real man hobby has 2 main criteria. 1. There is no upper limits to be a nerd about it. 2. There is no upper limit price range. Examples: HIFI sound, Photo (cameras and shit) Cars. etc. etc.
I'm a squirter.
Easy to use, easy to keep clean.
+1
Well done. I have used Silca Super Secret drip since early 2023. I also noted the inconvenience of hot wax chain removal every week (300 km interval). I simply decided to go with Silca drip wax 100% of the time. The main difference with my approach: I never remove the chain. Instead, I use a Pedros Chain Pig II to clean the chain monthly (on bike) and then use the Silca drip wax that I re-apply weekly. No worn-out quick links and the same 10000+ km chain life span that you are getting. My method saves about 100 hours a year.
Silca drip wax costs $75 a bottle in Canada. I thought that was crazy expensive. After almost 2 years of weekly waxing (for six months per year), I am only half-way through the first bottle. I can live with that.
Thanks. Welcome to my channel. Hope you like other videos too. - Adam
Quick links last much longer than Shimano say. 😉
Similar story (used Squirt for years, now converted to Silca).
The main difference between the two:
- Squirt does not penetrate the rollers as well as Silca (exact place you want the lube). Silca has significantly less wear than Squirt (and astronomically less than Triflow). Squirt really needs warmer weather (20ish C or 70ish F) to lower its viscosity to penetrate as well as SIlca (used to have Squirt sit next to a kettle so I'd warm it while I wiped my bike down).
- Silca is much easier to clean (especially if you ride in a lot of dirt/MTB). All you need is a kettle + boiling water which you pour over your chainring and pedal. Squirt (aside from buying expensive wax specific cleaners) would need both the hot water and a degreaser/chemicals to reset it as well as Silca + boiling water. I also found Silca lasted longer, especially in the wet/light moisture vs. Squirt and doesn't have all that waxy build up that occurs over time with Squirt.
Thanks. Welcome to my channel. Hope you like other videos too. - Adam
@@cyclinginsoutherncalifornia Have you guys tried Effetto Mariposa? I'm done entire ultras with one application. Pretty amazing and a lot cheaper.
Yo, been using Squirt for the last 5 years. Clean grease off new chain with mineral spirits then ultra sonic cleaner, amazing how much machining particulates are left on the bottom of the unit. Let it dry, then put on chain and add a light coat of Squirt. I've even used a heat gun on the chain while putting on Squirt to help drive it thoroughly into the links. As far as black pieces of was loading up after rides, one must be careful to put on just enough so you don't allow for excess wax to build up. Essentially applying too much Squirt on the chain will have you forever cleaning off the excess (the black pieces as referred to). For simplicity and cost, I'm staying with Squirt. Thank you for putting this together. Cheers All!
I apply the Squirt only to the rollers/inner/outer pin area, wait until the next day and wipe it off before my ride. Thanks for watching and subscribing.
Get TWO (or three) chains and rotate. Use the quick drip occasionally after a ride and cloth wipe down (leave overnight to set) to extend the ride time Then you can hot melt wax both together. Do it when you have a free day or so coming up, no stress. Just pop one off and put the other one on right away, ready to go. A beautiful system.
*oops, just seen Shawns longer explanation below of something similar!
Thanks. Welcome to my channel. Hope you like other videos too. - Adam
Great video and I can concur with nearly all of your findings and conclusions. I have been a Silca convert for a couple of years. I first switched to the Silca Synergetic product (their oil-based lube), then converted to the wax system. I have been on wax for almost 2 years.
I am using the Silca products in a similar manner to your plan, however, with 1 key difference. I have 2 chains that I rotate. I prep both chains (immersive wax), I will run Chain #1 for a couple hundred miles ~ depending on riding conditions, this will typically be about 1 week of riding. I will then use the Super Secret to 'top off' Chain #1. I will repeat that process of using Super Secret (weekly) on Chain #1 for anywhere from 2 to 4 weeks. After 4 weeks (aprox), I will remove Chain #1 and install the already prepped Chain #2 and repeat the sequence with Super Secret. I then have anywhere from 2-4 weeks to do an immersive wax on Chain #1 before the next swap.
With the 2-chain swapping system, given the almost zero-chain wear using wax, I can easily go multiple seasons on 2 chains. This helps to offset the generally higher cost of the waxing system vs. an oil-based lube.
I am also pretty diligent about bike cleaning, so I will use a treated gear rag (Silca Gear Wips) and give my bike and chain a quick wipe-down after each ride. My plan then is to also do a full bike clean/wash on a weekly basis, however, that does not always get done weekly, sometimes every-other-week based on riding conditions.
Finally, in an emergency situation, you can apply an oil-based lube over the top of a waxed chain, Silca describes doing this for a long/dirty events like Unbound, however, if you ever do that, the chain will need a full clean/strip and then an immersive wax.
Once you have gone wax, you will never go back.
@@ShawnIsBatman great idea. Thanks!!
Went wax, went back. To each their own. Oil just takes no time to apply.
The part about the emergency situation was very informative. Thank you. Soon I'll have an ultra endurance 700+km ride and was wondering if I can apply the Silca Synergetic Wet Lube on top of the hot waxed chain if the weather conditions are bad and it's pouring rain.
@@blizztbs Glad I could help. If you look through the videos on the Silca YT channel, there are a few where this option is mentioned. If you had a scenario where you were off your bike overnight, you could top-off with Super Secret, that needs about 8 hrs to set before riding. As I noted, if you do put an oil-based lube over the top of a waxed chain, you will need to do a full 'reset' of the chain before waxing it again. I would start with some degreaser in a jar (shake)/repeat until clean, I would then pour some boiling water over the chain to strip/melt out any old wax, finally, if available I would give the chain a rinse in Isopropyl Alcohol to ensure it is fully clean before immersive waxing.
Your other option would be to purchase a 2nd chain and just run Synergetic for the entire event. Synergetic is an amazing lube which tests nearly as good as the top wax lubes. I used Synergetic for a couple of years before switching to wax.
Before dipping the used chain, is anything done besides wiping it down with a dry cloth? Does it keep getting dipped in the same wax bath every other month with nothing but a dry wipe down first?
I did exactly the same thing as this video last year, and my conclusion was exactly the same. As you said, the change from oil to squirts was incredible, but the change from squirts to silca was almost nothing. I'm at the exact same spot now to where I'm hot waxing my chains once every 3-4 months but replenishing it with the drip on wax. I like the silca but when it runs out I'm going back to squirts. The additional cost and hassle of silca doesn't justify any marginal improvement in my opinion
Drip waxes do not provide the same long term protection of the drivetrain. An immersion is best because it penetrates fully, filling the rollers with wax, then pushing it out as you use it, along with acumulated debris.
Drip waxes actually bond with any debris, coat them in wax, and bind them to your chain. (Those crusty bits that come off in the video)
A hot melt wax ideally lasts 300km for the least amount of wear, you can stretch this to 600km if you dont mind wear on your cogs/cassettes. I wax mine 2x a month.
@@brandonhoffman4712 Thank you for confirming that that's a thing I'm *not* willing to do 😅
I bought cheap paraffin wax from Amazon and a women's wax heater for heating it up and immersing the chain. New chains get the cleaning (you can use cheap white spirits btw.) and immersion waxing. After that I mainly just use squirt wax after cleaning and once in a while I'll repeat the cleaning and immersion waxing - especially in winter when it's really wet here.
Thanks. Welcome to my channel. Hope you like other videos too. - Adam
Hi from UK, I went all in on wax chain a few years back, it’s definitely worth any early extra work. I use an ultrasonic bath and engineering grade component degreaser to initially get chain cleaner, 2 x 30 min cycles changing the fluid and it’s done, then a quick rinse in 99.9% IPA, (it’s better) The biggest pain on the Silca is breaking waxed chain free but it’s not too bad. Here we have very wet and muddy winters so wax isn’t ideal, so I used it to see. A few extra big cleans through season but it’s still better than oil that turns to sludge. I did wear out a KMC chain after 5,000 miles of winter crud but I thought that was ok, I have done a Shimano chain in 800 miles. I am now also just using Morgan Blue drip wax to top up chain, absolutely fine to mix. KMC re-usable missing link will go 20 plus times easily. I always drop chain off to wash the gravel bike. Glad to see even the sunniest places get rain 🤣 👍
I think both Silka and Squirt wax can be used together without problem, because I have been using Paraffin wax with crock pot and Squirt wax for awhile and it works.
This guy is good. Some people are just made to be on air and this guy could be a broadcaster. Also the video was informative since I just dropped a ton of money on Silca immersive waxing products lol
Squirt is good. Silca is best. Both are fine if you arent racing bikes for money. A few extra notes:
1. Silca has less noises (likely due to better uptake on rollers).
2. Silca drys much faster, which i like if i need to wax in the morning before and afternoon ride.
3. You dont have to hot wax silca, they already put out a video saying 3 drips, then drys, is about 98-99% as good as hot wax.
4. You are applying the drip wrong, back pedal, and apply on the top just infront of the casette. Once the chain hits the casette it opens up the rollers a bit so the wax goes in better - especially with squirt because it doesnt go in a well at room temps. This is fussy, but so is silca 😅
5. The reason the silca cooker is great is because you dont over heat your wax, which can damage it - not just easy of use.
6. I use this on gravel in the north, in rain and snow. Chains aint gonna rust as long as you dry them indoors after. If it does, its so superficial it doesnt matter.
I can confirm, you never see wear under 10k if you lube regular with wax - i use the KMC digital check to confirm this.
just got an electric bike and this video was very helpful. thank you.
I have been using Molten speed wax. And a small $15 crook pot.
About every 2 weeks, I take off and put it in the pot. Wax came in a puck form, 2 picks per pack. After a year, still on 1st puck. Probably last another couple of years. Still enough in pot to do 2 chains at once. Also have the Super Secret drip wax to use in between immersions. But it is so thick that it just seems to sit on top of the chain! So I use a hair dryer to heat and blow it into the links. That seems to work ok, otherwise I don't feel it is penetrating into the chain. But I will never go back to any other form of lube. To me, the biggest benefit is how clean the chain and the rest of drive train are.
Cool
Definitely a Squirt fan here, and like you.. have used it for many years. The difference for me is that it gets used on all of my bikes, so it is used on my road bike, but also on my mountain bike and fatbike. So lots more dirt involved, and on my fatbike... that bike goes through road salt in the winters, snow and anything else you can think about. The fatbike was the first bike that I tested Squirt on, and as you mentioned, the drivetrain lasts so much longer. Now I also will say that I do not take the chain off to clean it in between. I will spend a bit of time with a cleaner and a clean rag and that's it, although it generally is fairly clean when completed. Squirt is simply so much better than anything else I've ever used, and I'm a longtime cyclist and shop owner. I used to do the whole immersion process, and had great luck with it... but again, not to the extent that Squirt has had. I also wanted one application for all of my bikes, so it has been Squirt for everything. Thanks for sharing, and I'll be interested in hearing your results once you have some time with both lubes.
Thanks. Welcome to my channel. Hope you like other videos too. - Adam
I'm a Silca waxer without a crock-pot. The one thing you forgot to mention was that the big bag of Super Secret doesn't need a wax warmer! The bag is designed to go into a pot of boiling water, and your chain goes in the bag. I use a coat hanger to pull the chain out and hang it to harden. There are several Silca videos out there that show how to do it. Easy Peasy!
@@charleshooker9338 didn’t know. Thanks!!!🙏
Been a Squirt user for a few years and can attest to all you've said. Hate the build up of Squirt jam too. Have just secured my Silca and look forward to using it but will wait until I wear out the Squirt chain. Thx for your video and all the comments affirming the good decision.
You'll probably like it. It's just that's it's more expensive. That's all.
Hello Adam, really enjoyed your video and my nodding cadence was about 90/min in agreement with your observations. Most of the comments you already received reflect my experiences with Squirt drip wax and Silca immersion wax.
1. Squirt is an excellent product as I have a couple of bikes with chains with over 10K & zero wear.
2. Degreasing a new chain to apply the Squirt wax is a pain. Although nowhere near as painful as replacing cassettes and chainrings.
3. Squirt makes a mess of the cassette and especially jockey wheels over time and they need to be cleaned regularly.
4.Squirt requires multiple applications to ensure optimum wax fills the gap between the pins & rollers. I have read from reliable sources that drip-on waxes usually will fill 75% of the gaps between pins & rollers on each application. I will usually apply 3 coats on new chain.
5. Squirt requires time to dry after each application, usually overnight.
6. Squirt is easy to find and easily transportable especially for multi-day rides.
7. Squirt does have a low temperature version available and cannot be combined with the regular version. I keep separate chains for each type wax.
8. Not sure i can use Silca during low temps in winter so will keep using Squirt for the colder temps.
9. Silca has the Strip Chip (which i have yet to try) which should eliminate the pain of degreasing new chains.
10. Silca fills the gaps between the pins & rollers 100%.
11. Hot water can be used to clean a Silca waxed chain. Tried hotwater on Squirt chains and is hard to tell how thoroughly the old wax is removed.
12. Over all the Silca system is a more thorough , easier and less messy method of chain waxing. Also easier to clean. Some users don't bother to clean before rewaxing, they just re-immerse the chain in the hotpot.
13. I have reused the standard quick links a least 10x's without any issue. So have no fear! Although I probably just jinxed myself and maybe recanting this part of the message after my next ride.
14. I typically reapply Squirt wax every 500k during optimal road conditions and every 300k during winter conditions. All on road. Will try the same for the Silca immersion wax and try to stretch it to 600-700k. Fingers crossed.
15. If the Silca immersion wax is as good or better than Squirt wax i will use Dura Ace chains on my Ultegra & 105 drivetrains. I'm sure that will further enhance my perception of going fast.
Well, i think i covered all my experiences with chain waxing (take that Wikipedia).
Good luck and please make a follow-up video.
Thanks for sharing.
I've used both and am sticking with super secret. I absolutely hate the gunk build up and stickiness of squirt.
Molten speed wax tests better for dry/dusty enviornments. Silca has higher friction with a freshly waxed chain, but holds its friction better in wet/muddy conditions.
Info came from charts made from testing done by zero friction cycling.
I'm a silica guy through and through. Pricey...yes. Do I care when it comes to my bikes... No. I want the best I can get. Like the video host stated, cycling is my jam. It is what I love to do. And I am not splurging anywhere else in my life, but in my cycling.
Me too.
I think i watched yours and other youtubers reviews on the Squirt more than a year ago. im still using it and it simply works for me. yes, it gest a bit dirty but wipping out with a cloth is not a biggy. for me its about less faff. Never back to oil due to the mess of cleaning. Hot pot to wax every 200km? no way, this will be for me every 4-7 days. You said it right, it has to be found easily, easy to apply and clean. what i´ve learn in other channel is to clean the chain (on the bike) pooring Hot water on the chain. it will melt the wax and remove it. later you can use a WD 40 to remove all the water and re-apply the squirt. i do this every 1 or 2 months and its working great. cheers
You're doing it right. Using the wax drip to maintain after the initial immersion is exactly what Silca recommends. They don't expect you to clean and re-immerse in hot wax every week. Josh (the Silca CEO) has several videos on their UA-cam site going over their recommended process.
If you ride 300km a week, 3 chains will let you wax every other week. If you ride 150km a week (me) you can run 2 chains and wax every other week, or if you wax on an off day, you only need 1 chain. This is to keep the system in an ideal state, you can double the numbers if you dont mind some wear.
Also based on zero friction cycling test data. Molten speed wax is the best performin wax for dry/dusty climates. Silca is best for wet/muddy environments.
Been waxing with grocery store paraffin for years now, although I have been alternating between lubrication methods. Grocery store paraffin does not last long (approx. 200 miles) and is soft enough to collect dirt. Squirt is even worse regarding dirt collection, although I had not contemplated the approach of never cleaning a Squirt lubricated chain with solvent (i.e. just wiping and reapplying), but that dirt gets on cassette and chainrings too. Same for T-9. I just tried MSpeedwax and it appears to last much longer than grocery store paraffin, but it has MoS2 so it is dark and I can't tell if it is collecting dirt, plus I just installed a new drivetrain so it's not a fair comparison. Note that being anal retentive and having access to a vacuum chamber, I vacuum infuse the wax into my chains. Although this makes waxing even more time consuming, but waxing and vacuum infusing at work is safe. I am worried that if I wax at home and I forget and leave the crock pot on all night in my shop I might burn my house down. My current plan (for better or worse) is to wax, touch up with Clean Ride for another 3-4 rides, then oil with my homebrew chain lube (5-20 wt motor oil with a friction modifier added), then clean drivetrain and repeat. I contend that there is no good way to lubricate a chain. It's either small maintenance frequently or big maintenance less frequently. $45 for an 8 oz bottle of Silca Super Secret Chain Wax? That's obscene!
The cheap SRAM 1051 chain I just replaced had 13k miles, had probably been removed 50+ times, and I always used the original master link(s). A problem was the chain was so worn the rollers on the end links would fall out when I removed the chain and the little buggers can be hard to find. I tried replacing this chain two years and 6,000 miles ago, but my cassette was too worn and it skipped cogs so I decided to keep running it.
Enjoyed your video. I haven’t tried the Silva products, but I’ve switched to squirt on all three of my bikes: Mtb, gravel, and road. I’m not sure what you’re referring to. Puzzled when you said it took you a whole day to prep a new chain. I used mineral spirits, muck off drivetrain cleaner, then dish detergent. After thoroughly drying the chain, I hang it next to a dehumidifier and the whole process takes less than an hour, other than waiting a little bit to apply the squirt to make sure everything is dry on the chain. I write about 150 miles a week and find that I only need to reapply squirt every 2 to 3 rides depending on conditions, and of course, I wipe my chains down after every ride.
Talk about Squirt black gunk. You should see the mess under a bike used on a Turbo trainer. Love the lack of smell and the lubrication but the black stuff is a mess.
I run Silca Synergetic on the trainer. I'm riding indoors about 4hrs a week and reapply every 6 weeks or so. 10,000miles and the chain still measures as new and it's extremely clean because you barely use any. They got rid of their needle applicator because people were breaking them. If I break mine, I'll buy my own needle applicator. It's extremely good at giving you the smallest drops. I'm less than 1/3 done with my bottle too. It's hilarious how long it lasts and I'd happily pay over double if I knew it would last so long when I bought it
@veganpotterthevegan on my road bike I use synergetic indoor and out, because in clean conditions there is no downside to using synergetic. But on gravel and cyclocross I use wax pot. That said, silca synergetic does have a nasty oil smell after application, but I guess that also shows its high quality. Going on a turbo trainer after application does not feel all too pleasant to my nose
You can mix squirt and super secret. So when you forgot the super secret you can buy the sqirt anyways. In my opinion the super secret gets a bit better into the chain. But at double the price everyone has to decide themselves.
Thanks. Welcome to my channel. Hope you like other videos too. - Adam
I'm 100% converted: two chains, waxed every two, two-and-a-half weeks. So no need for cooking weekly. One hint from wax manufacturer: instead of whole cleaning process every week, just put your chains on a sieve and use 1L boiling water. Rinse the chains lying on the sieve by pouring boiling water over it. This is working surprisingly well, making the whole process much less painful.
Valid point regarding quick link wearout, just buying a few replacements from Shimano.
I have been using squirt for a while and i find it just doesnt last very long on rides. Im going to try waxing this weekend. Looking forward to comparing.
Great tip!
Hello Doc, enjoyed the video, like you I've been using Squirt for yeeeeears, great stuff. I have roughly the same routine as you, I wipe the chain with a cloth after long rides to get rid of the black wax buildup and reapply a thin coating making sure the fresh squirt penetrates as much in the rollers as possible. When my chain gets too gunky with the black residue, usually after 6-8 weeks of riding, instead of removing the chain off the bike and cleaning it in the crock pot you mention, I leave it on and wash it with park tool chain cyclone chain scrubber - or equivalent from other brands- with a healthy dose of fairy liquid and boiling water in it... once the chain is clean I rinse the detergent off properly with clean water, wipe it and let it dry completely until its ready for re-application ..it's probably not the recommended method but never had any chain issues, my chains last around 10k as well on my road bikes, riding in here mucky Uk all seasons of the year.. it solves the issue of the quick-link that can only be used 3 times and having to a buy an expensive Connex one. All the best, Mat
I recently made mistake to by the "Super Secret" of Silca and was totally disappointed - it was same as Squirt, but just a bit more liquid. It had shorter life on my chain than Squirt.
But I do not agree with you on durability of Sq in rain - I found that it is washed away very quickly. Recently I had to take part in a rainy road bike event, and asked for advice. I bougth Muck Off lube and it was definitely smoother and longer lasting than Squirt, but the chain needed more cleaning with it. So what I do: Dry weather - Squirt. Rainy - a good lube. Never again - Super Secret.
Yeah, as soon as there's rain, I can hear the chain start to rattle with Squirt after a while. Oil was better in this regard, but much worse in terms of gunk build up. At least with Squirt you can relatively easy remove the dirt / black stuff, with oils this was a nightmare.
Well I bought new Bike with all the newest Tech. I bought all the silka Stuff and so far Im happy. Did the iniial hot wax and now Im just using the super secret wax coating . I rode a 160 miles last week and I sure do have a lot of black stuff on my chain. Im hoping its remnits of the strip chip. But I didn’t watch the video good enough. I guess I was supposed to do three coating , one coating after each of 3 rides. Then you can ride a some distance before the next application. I also put 300 miles not km"s onmy first hot waxing.
Same experience going from oil based chain lube to Squirt: Dramatic difference. I am also a cycling nerd with one hobby (bikes) but you won't catch me dead waxing my chain! THAT marginal gain can be achieved riding 5min more on my bike /week! Easy maintenance makes you faster! Thank for the video!
marginal gains aside, lower wear an the drive train, quieter operation, less grime, less dirt, and much, much less maintenance are all great reasons to wax, but going from an oil based lube to wax, i can assure you, it was way more than a marginal gain
Thanks. Welcome to my channel. Hope you like other videos too. - Adam
I clean up my chain in 3 Gatorade bottles; one with Varsol (paint thinner), one of degreaser + water, one with 99% isopropyl alcohol. You just shake it real good for 5 minutes for each bath. I used to apply Squirt in a flat bath overnight. I then bought: a small crock pot, paraffin candle wax, WS2 (tungsten disulfide) nano powder and TPFE (Teflon) nano powder. After 2 1/2 years I am still using the same initial batch of paraffin + WS2 + PTFE that I have been using. If no rain I can go 400-450 km between re-waxing. I still have paraffin, WS2, PTFE for another 10-20 years maybe more. Nothing beats a freshly waxed chain.
Sounds like a very thorough process!
@@cyclinginsoutherncalifornia It's a bit of research at the beginning to figure out what size of powder to use. But everything becomes routine after a short while. I bought from Aliexpress 500g of 1 micron (1000 nanometer) PTFE powder and 500g 99% WS2 0.8 micron (800 nanometer). I used 15g of each powder in my initial hot wax batch that I have been using since, so I will have some for quite some time. I should have bought smaller size PTFE but I couldn't find it at the time or the smaller size was a lot more expensive, I cannot remember. But everything works. I also mix a small amount of WS2 and PTFE with the Park Tool performance grease I use. It works wonders for cup and cone bearings.
oil-based chain lubricant is BRILLIANT for removing the factory preservative. instantly stripped off
The best thing for me is the ability do use SSS with hotwaxed chains. In the summer I don't need it but during the fall and winter when the roads get salted it is ideal to wipe the chain clean and dry and then add and wipe SSS. It's just to protect from rust and salt on the outside. And indeed on holiday one should not forget the bottle. Expecially since a waxed chain needs reapplication after 300k if not less. I'm really not bothered by dry residue under my trainer since it's easy to vacuum. I also started with squirt and now have 5 bottles left wich I can't seem to get rid of.
Good video! I have always dunk waxed my new chain once per chain life. Lemon Pledge on a fiber cloth when cleaning my bikes. Recently I started adding Squirt Lube after my Pledge clean. I have no other hobbies either. No chain noise, perfect shifting.
That's really interesting... added zest foor your ride too eh!! Might give that a go actually👍
I’ve been very happy with MSpeedwax, which I started using this year. One note on wax intervals. Most of the manufacturers seem to recommend 300k as top performance (low friction and almost forever chain life). But say 500-600k will still provide most of the benefits. I’m rotating 2 chains each on three bikes as others have commented, and that helps with convenience.
@@danhutjens8328 cool!
more vibrant lmaooooooooooo got a chuckle out of me
I also moved onto the Silca wax system. OMG massive difference from Triflow I was using in the past. I will never go back to chain lube. Here's a tip. Invest in another chain or two. When one needs waxing, swap it out with a back up chain that is waxed. When that one is done, wax them both and off you go. Don't worry too much about the quick links. They are very durable. I have some as back ups just in case. You'll know when the quick link is toast. It will know longer have a distinct click when putting it back on. My quick links have been used many times. No worries. Also, there is a Wax by a German company called Optimize. They claim a waxed chain will last 800-1000KM's!!! I will order some and try it. Their wax contains Graphine where as Silca's is a Tungsten base of sorts. The Graphine I expect is what is longer lasting.
@@samuel8590 great ideas. Thanks!
I transitioned from Squirt to Effetto Mariposa FlowerPower Wax (when replacing a new chain). It is fantastic. Let's say 50% more clean and I only reapply every ~600km. Had a long ride in heavy rain in the mountains and nothing happened to the chain.
@@idlerfang wow!!!
@@cyclinginsoutherncalifornia too much Squirt you put, not a simple thing, that how much, with imersive it is resolved, at least is homogenic and biased by temperature only. But Mariposa has nice valve for Flower Power and ZFC also confirmed that initial is much better then Squirt where Squrit is missing, penetration due to the high viscosity
Hard to believe. Riding mixed terrain with my gravel bike, mostly asphalt, after like 100 km of riding with the FlowerPower Wax chain starts to get noisy and not as smooth so I tend to reapply. On other hand it is been told that waxed chain isn't as smooth and quiet as the one with oil lube applied to. I tend to overuse this product because I want that smooth and quiet action.
@@andrejgarbar7180 Do you apply as instructions say, 2x 3h apart on clean chain ?
@@andrejgarbar7180 One reason I can think of is that existing lubricant applied is not thoroughly stripped off, so wax could not penetrate and stick to the chain. I always start with a new chain soaked in hydrocarbon cleaner for couple of weeks. It's quite possible that an old chain can't be thoroughly cleaned. Regarding noise, before Squirt I was using Finish Line Dry and I found it more quiet with Squirt. Flowerpower basically performs as quiet as Squirt. I still use Finish Line Dry on my folding bike and the difference is quite obvious.
I just bought the ebike squirt wax low temp (Green bottle) to try it on my new bike, never used squirt before but know it's for longer lasting whare as the muc off and ceramics need done after every 4hrs or every ride
@@Emtbtoday yep.
I went on this exact journey and now full wax bath on new chains and then reapply every few hundred miles. I use silca in the wax pot but in between I use squirt. I guess that is how I manage time and cost. Great video I enjoyed it very much!
@@davidbell3371 thanks for the info. Hope you enjoy my other videos.
used Squirt since 2015ish.. then moved to speedwax via crockpot and now Silca wax with the chip when the chain in new, but in between I use CeramicSpeed UFO drip then re-wax 1 per month.
I went from oil to waxed and then to Squirt. I have stayed with squirt. Just like the ease of use and the bottle is easy to throw in my bag when I travel with my bike to new riding locations.
@@angustroutman3494 I agree!
Is it not possible to use squirt on any waxed chain?
@@drill_fiend1097yes I waxin Silca immersion bath and then use the Squirt drip wax. Squirt lasts longer on both dry and wet chains.
That's exactly what I do, hot wax my chain whenever I judge it needs it and depending on the weather use squirt as a top up. I also reuse the quick link maybe 3 or 4 times, it's a judgement call.
Did the Silca hot wax treatment and prep protocol on new chains. I top off every few weeks with Mariposa Flower Power. Very pleased. I'm retired and don't mind faffing around on my bikes. BTW did use Squirt quite a while on unprepped chains. Lots of waxy build up on jockey wheels and in between chainrings. Very little now. Cheers from Italy.
Flower Power has been sold out in America for months, please tell the Swiss to send more.
If you are wondering how long your chain would last on Silca, compared to Squirt, you can check the independent test results from Zero Friction cycling. Based on his tests, its not even close - you can expect more longevety from Silca, especially for hotmelt wax vs drip on.
@@alienlivingform I want to see the results after real world riding and learn myself. Lab results are under controlled conditions so that gives us a baseline, but I want to ride in dirt and weather and see what happens. Same in healthcare. Stuff looks good in research but doesn’t always pan out when you do it to real humans.
@cyclinginsoutherncalifornia I get that, and totally agree. Would be interesting if you make a follow up video after couple of months with your findings 🙂
@@alienlivingform I’m going to make that video once I have enough miles on the chains to make a difference. Too often I see videos where they compare in one month. For me that isn’t enough time. Subscribe and wait…
I’ve bought so many oils, waxes, drip waxes over the past few years that I think I might have a problem (add it to the list). With drip waxes like Squirt or Tru-Tension, I always get a build up of black “cheese” on the derailleur jockey wheels that I find quite disconcerting. I’m not sure if it has a negative effect on performance or shifting, but it does bug the hell out of me.
If I hot wax the chain, then I don’t get this build-up and the chain seems super quiet.
I ride road and MTB in the UK, so the chain is subject to a combination of wet and dry conditions. In Southern Spain, I ride eMTB in dusty, arid conditions.
Finding the best lube for the job is a PITA, and I know I’m overthinking this massively! 😂
I use the oz cycle methods. I live in a dusty dry desert area and wax is the best. I just use squirt lube in between wax immersion when I don’t have time and about once every 2-3 weeks I take off the chains and wax all my bikes chains at the same time. Once you get the system down to a science it’s pretty easy so much better than the dirty oiled chain old days.
@@davido8086 I agree with you
I dip the chain & top up with the super secret drip for about 3000 miles. They also sell a chain/disc brake degreaser that gets the crud out without fully killing the wax. I also have a second chain that I keep waxed & ready(that I hot melt when I have spare time). The quick links i use a couple of times even though shimano says not to. I know it seems like a lot but it feels like the semi lazy/frugal way to marginal gains! Also I hate a dirty chain!
I have used Squirt for many years, now I am trying different chain lube like Blub Graph or Momum Wax. I think that is a big deal to have to disassembly the chain every 2-300 kms, use a pan, etc.. I am not so "pro" even when I do a lot of kms, I prefer less performance but more confort.
Great video.
Thanks man!
When I used oil on a cross-country bike with Shimano transmission, mostly for competitions, the chain was done after 10-15 rides, no more than 500 kilometers. The cassette lasted a bit longer. After I used Squirt for one season on 12 speed SRAM Eagle transmission, I decided to check the chain wear. The wear indicator showed no wear at all. I am still not sure if SRAM components are so much better than Shimano or the wax is that much better.
I use squirt but apply before every BIG ride. I apply to each roller and use the clutch to slacken the chain so the lube can penetrate. Leave it to dry then release the clutch. So far 2150 miles on same chain and sprockets
I've done both for 4 years now. I started like you with Squirt, but changed to my own homemade wax, like the OZ video. Then two years ago I swapped to Silca. Now I still clean my chain with the first method you described, as in when it's new. I don't just put it in petrol overnight, then on day 2, two times with 90% IPO. Then I do a clean with fairy liquid and boiling water. Slowcooker with the silca wax. Drip between rides for 1 month. Then once a month clean the chain with fairy liquid and boling water. Slowcooker and back to dripping it on after each ride. I get 25000K on a chain and cassette. The chainrings are still around 10000K. When I go away from home I have even used Squirt on the silca prepared chain, but then I come home and clean the chain with fairy liquid and back in the crock pot. easy....
@@tomjojic2724 cool!
@@cyclinginsoutherncalifornia Sorry I see a typo! I wash a new chain in petrol overnight, just leave it in a jam jar and shake it a few times when you pass by, but 24 hours is ideal. Then the wrest of the description is correct.
Great vid! I have been wondering about the difference between silca and squirt as well, very cool to see your video covering all the questions I had. I'm currently running oil on some bikes, and squirt on some others. I did just order some silca drip wax but not the immersion wax, and once the oil chain reaches the end of its life I'll replace it with a waxed one.
Also one thing that some people with immersion waxed chains do is they have a few chains that they wax at a time and then they cycle through those chains over the course of a month or so. Rotating through a few chains means that you only have to quickly swap them most of the time, and once a month you immersion wax all the chains at once, saving time overall. Constantly rotating the chains as well means that they wear very evenly with the cassette and chainrings, and with how long waxed chains last it means a few chains rotated through will likely last years.
If you're only going to be using the Silca drip wax a tip to get the best from it (from their website) is to apply the wax 3 times (one after each ride) and then it will almost be as good as an immersive waxing. I think he says about 97% as good.
@@childofeternityin fact I’m one video he claimed just 2 applications will get you 95-ish% as effective as hot wax
i' ve been mixing silca and squirt and it worked well. Normally I put the chain each month in the silca wax bath and then I use secret chain wax, or when on holyday I use squirt and no problem.
@@ffk038 good to know. Thank you. Thanks for watching.
the connex link does not rely on a snapping mechanism and therefore does not wear out due to opening and closing. that's why you need a connex chain for immersion waxing. Removing the chain on a 1x drivetrain is as easy and quick as getting dressed in the morning
Thanks
Spot on. I agree with everything you said and follow a similar protocol.
Independent tests have shown that longevity of components is extended using Silca drip wax over Squirt but I suspect that the increased cost of Silca balances out the savings made on the components.
I have moved to Silca exclusively now but would happily use Squirt is that was al I had available.
*one observation, I reuse my Shimano quick links until the chain dies. I’ve NEVER had one fail on me.
Full disclosure, I'm a bike nerd. Ok, so now I've got that out of the way lets get nerdy !
I've been waxing my chain for quite a while now, and I've ended up using the silca wax as it just seems to stay on the chain for way longer than all the others I've used. The Absolute black wax came close, but I just found the silca hung in there for longer.
During the winter months it can become a bit of a pain keeping the drivetrain waxed, so I decided to mix waxing with periodic use of "Muc-off chain wax".
I've not used Squirt, but I'll take a look.
Thanks. Welcome to my channel. Hope you like other videos too. - Adam
I also used the regular oil based wet lube in the past. It really ate up chains and cassettes - and I just thought it was normal wear. Of course it was very grimy too. So I went to Rock N Roll Gold. Much better! Chain and cassette was always sparkling clean and I got twice the mileage than previously. Then I started doing deep solvent cleans every so often and noticed I was getting a lot of black junk out of the inside of my chain. Normal? I let it settle and put a magnet to it. It was nearly all magnetic! That was my chain and cassette!!! Went to Silca hot melt alternating with their drip wax. Usually hot melt at ~200 miles, but go up to 500 with a few applications of drip wax in between. Then I do a boiling water rinse. I don't find any magnetic residue after this wash. I have not worn out any chains yet with wax.
That first ride after a fresh hot melt wax - OMG!
I’ve been doing Oz’s homemade immersive solution for a few years now… I reuse my SRAM master links over and over… never an issue.
@@dougnewman1267 good to know. Thank you.
Wife: "So you want a crockpot for your birthday but you're not going to make dinner with it ... um, okay whatever."
I've been using a straight paraffin immersion and maintaining it with Squirt. It seems to work fine. I'm going the lazy route and only taking the chain off twice a year. It gets near freezing in the winter here so I use a 50/50 paraffin oil/ paraffin wax mix for the winter months and it works well. One of these days I'll probably try the silca wax/lube. The strip chip sounds amazing. Can't recall if I need the temperature control for that, but I'll check it out when the time comes.
Thanks. Welcome to my channel. Hope you like other videos too. - Adam
I used squirt on my mtb, but in my country the humid and dusty weather gets the chain black quite fast, a lot of wiping and reapplying was required. Now I'm using silca oil based synergetic, very little needed, zero friction cycling says each application lasts 500-1000km and the chains last long. Not as clean as wax, but much easier to use and 1 bottle lasts years at my 5000km/year mileage.
Because of your earlier squirt wax vid, I switched to squirt e- bike wax. I have 2 e-bikes & 2 regular bikes. I use the same squirt on all chains. Love it. But my LBS said recently that my chain was very dry. I told them it was wax. No further comment. Yes squirt builds up a bit but not changing lubes Sticking with squirt. Mainly for $$ & most LBS carry some form of it
Thanks. Welcome to my channel. Hope you like other videos too. - Adam
Have noticed that finishline now has a wax lube as well. And a few others. Wonder how finishline wax lube compares to squirt or silca. Have been using Silca for a few months now and no complaints. I use the chip for new chains as well. All good
Fully agreed, having experienced the same grand improvement with Squirt; likewise, having switched to Silca. We have the problem in Atlanta, GA of not finding Squirt on bike shop shelves. Silca was chosen as the one wax based lube in the one shop that carried such, found in a Specialized shop in East ATL.
Thanks. Interesting it's not in the bike shops where you are. Welcome to my channel. Hope you like other videos too. - Adam
The wax you are using has a tungsten disulfide additive (it is written right on front of the package) which is that dark grey stuff you are wiping off.
Oh. Thanks.
Great insight on the difference!
Been using Squirt for a year now and felt a bit mislead with the amount of "greasy" looking flakes coming off but now it all makes sense
Will try Silca soon any way as the indoor use of the bike prompts me to search for the cleanest solution I can get
So far, I've liked it.
I’m a fan of Silca wax, I never had any issues with removing and reattaching my KMC 11 speed master link. I only have to clean up my mountain bike a little more often but most time I wipe down. Sometimes running hot water to remove dirt and reapply the Silca drip wax. I don’t see any reason to buy the crock pot. I just use and old pot and do several chains at once.
I definitely think Squirt is the next best thing and have friends that always use that product. The only difference I see is that waxing with Silca wax has the ability to coat the chain rings and cassette really nicely.
@@hardmtnbiker true
Thank you for your real-world evaluation! I totally lucked out and bought the right stuff, first time around. (For my purposes, SQUIRT! ) LOL!
I've been using SCC tech lube, which has been great. If I had the money I'd be trying the absolute black stuff.
Hey friend…
I’ve been using Squirt for years now, and totally understand the bit of trash it creates in between.
However… another little step I add (occasionally) to your already mentioned… is taking my 1.5 hex and pushing a tee-shirt size cotton material in between each link.
It does take a few extra minutes… but definitely leaves the chain looking immaculately clean again!
Another possible note of interest… in rebellion to “designed obsolescence” and giving up simplicity… I still ride my beautiful 2013 Tarmac Pro… complete with rim brakes, mechanical SRAM Red 10 and 404 Firecrest (tubed) wheels!
Yet… I’m always being complimented on rides for having the cleanest, sharpest looking bike (even from those who don’t know me)!
Though… in truth, it’s first and foremost the “blinding pop” that’s always coming from my silver chain and cassette 😊
@@vetracer217 yes. I love my SL3. Clean chains and rear cogs can make a bike look and feel new.
I used just white candle paraffin for 4 years and tried Silca a few months ago. There are some differences in how the wax feels, Silca is a lot harder, stickier on the metal and leaves a slippy residue on the fingers, but durability-wise I get the same 500-800 km out of one waxing. I also got 20000 km out of an Ultegra chain with candle paraffin, so wear resistance is adequate, too. I use Squirt as a refill on trips and vacations. A 10 ml eyedrop bottle of Squirt is good for 3 lubrications. My impression is that Squirt leaves this soft, sticky, gummy residue, on the chain, jockey wheels and the sprockets, whereas the immersion paraffin leaves residue which is a lot harder.
I think the whole blank slate chemical clean of the chain before immersion waxing is some misunderstanding or a hoax. A full degrease is necessary for the water-based wax lube like Squirt, but the molten paraffin is a mix of hydrocarbons, just like the factory grease is, just as the mineral spirits are, they all dissolve in each other no problem. For a new chain, I do one wash in mineral spirits, then just put it into paraffin and maybe let it soak for a bit longer, agitate it by taking out and putting back in a few more times than normal. Even if the first application is somewhat softer and weaker that way, I don't care, I'll just repeat the application in a few weeks. It only takes 20 minutes.
Thanks. Welcome to my channel. Hope you like other videos too. - Adam
Cool video.
I upgraded to Squirt about a year ago. I love it.
Lately, I have been experimenting with Oz Cycling self-wax formula. It doesn't seem to last long enough...
I am currently on vacation, so I brought my trusty bottle of Squirt along!
Yeah...never will forget it again.
I used Squirt for several years, before switching to Hot wax but I had the Silca system for Fathers day earlier this year...
I immersion wax my chain approx every 3 months, with squirt/SSS top ups every 2 weeks, starting after about 6 weeks after immersion.
My current chain has done appx 9,000 miles, and still only about 0.5 wear - will probably change it for the winter (about 12,000 miles or 2.5 years).
With 3 dips per year, and a chain lasting two years, no need to worry about quick link
Just remember to a) drip wax the night before riding to allow it sime to set, and b) dry chain if riding in wet conditions (so avoud slight surface rust)
The biggest difference I found with Silca hot wax v cheeper haot wax was how quick it was to 'bed in' the freshly waxed chain, the cheeper wax took about 30 miles before it was quiet and changed gear as efficiently as it shoul, the silca chain is 100% ready in as little as 5 to 10 miles!
With oil based lubrication I used two chains per year and wore my cassette out in 3 years, and my chain rings after about 5 - all adds to the cost, and makes waxing more cost effective in the long run.
I have 4 hot waxed chains I rotate. Before I switch I tend to apply Silca secret wax about 3 times. When the 8 oz bottle is finished I may go back to using squirt in its stead. Have seen tests that point out its best to use squirt on a chain that's been hot waxed because it takes awhile for squirt to get fully imbedded in the links
@@cornelhughes good idea!!
Why Super Secret has that strange consitency ? Every chain I have behaves like "Silca-fobic" (silca super secret doesn't stay on it, however other waxes/lubes don't have that problem) ? even after cleaning them, or should I clean in some specific spirit ?
We only use BananaWax Chain Drag & Friction Reduction TdF Racing Chain Wax in the UK 🇬🇧.
I switched to Silca immersion wax 10 months ago. I haven't even emptied the whole bag into the crock pot yet. There's at least a third of a bag still to be used. I have enough in the crock pot for numerous uses, still. I have two chains that I rotate.
Yeah. I think this will last a long time.
New subscriber! I am still in the dark ages using old school lube. Been considering wax. Had to laugh about your San Diego story, I spent extra time prepping my chain for the SD Gran Fondo a few years ago using ceramic lube for "dry conditions". I rained for the first 30 miles. Ruined my chain and cassette that day. This vid has pushed me over the edge... gonna give wax a try. Appreciate the info and love your style!
@@cbock35 you’ll like it once the learning curve is over.
For fellow cyclists on the Squirt boat, give Smoove a try.
No flaking residue, smooth and quiet chain, maybe lasts slight longer per lube.
(Never tried Silca, can't comment)
I tried Smoove but left more residue on the derailleur rollers. I returned to Squirt.
@@luisfernandezquero5787 Interesting.
Did you strip the chain clean (from any other lube, oil or wax based) before Smoove conversion?
Smoove also keeps up better in the wet than Squirt.
true, and depends on chain(or not?). Ive been using Smoove with various chains, all year round. With every other chain, mileage is soso. with Sram XX1 chain, infinite, seems like...(10000km+)
I've pretty much arrived at the same protocol. Only difference, and I know zero friction cycling says you can just dip the dirty chain in the wax, but I run hot water from the kettle and dry it with the air compressor first. It just gives me the feel goods of not adding too much contamination into the wax pot. I have no proof this actually makes a difference or matters though
@@own3dv1ru5 my understanding is that you will lessen the likelihood of having a layer of junk at the bottom of your wax… so the wax in the pot should stay cleaner for longer. Kind of like a bathtub.
I've use squirt wax. I bought a Shimano chain from Amazon (came in Shimano box but could be a fraud). It came to me with .2-.25 wear on it. After riding about 1600 miles with Squirt wax, it's at .5 wear on my 9 speed drivetrain. I replaced it and bought a new one (yes, I know I can go to .75, but I'm going to get a few chains, wear them down to .5, then start to use the .5 chain until it gets to .75). I reapply squirt once a week, about every 80-120 miles.
I wish I had the same durability that you are experiencing, but I don't.
Been waiting for this comparison. This channel is why I started using Squirt, which has been great.
@@user-cx2bk6pm2f hope you liked the video. I’ll do a follow up in 6 months once the honeymoon phase is over.
@@cyclinginsoutherncalifornia Yes I did, I enjoy your thought process. If you really want the best, how about trying Silca's graphene wax... it's very expensive, $300 for a tub of it.
Maybe for my birthday!!
I use squirt and don’t the get build up, I heat for 10 seconds in the microwave to help it penetrate the rollers works great 😊 Pete 🚴🏻👍
Paraffin + ptfe and your set add a small squeezy bottle and your set for your travels too. A 120ml bottle will cost you under $1. And if your ride a lot it can add up. I think if you ride under 100km a week Silca makes sense
Went from Squirt to Effetto Mariposa liquid wax, much cleaner and longer lasting than Squirt... can not be bothered with hot wax mess. ;-) Biggest difference is no wax particles when indoor riding...
Thanks for sharing, I got the finish line ceramic wax chain lube you recommanded in earier video and wondering which one is better compare to squirt chain lube.
You can oil a waxed chain, no problem. I bring a tiny bottle in my jersey pocket for longer races. You just need to thoroughly clean the chain before rewaxing afterwards. A waxed chain is noisier than oiled chain. I have 12 chains for my 3 bikes - I just take one out and put a new chain, in a matter of seconds - quicker than oiling. Using more chains on a drivetrain prolongs its life. Rewaxing 8+ chains together takes the same time as 1 chain. Drip wax is fine in between rewaxing, but I'd never use it on a race, there I always put the best chain with a fresh wax on it. Warming up for the race usually breaks the chain to its optimal performance. For the most important races I also put a new quicklink, and reuse it on the other chains later.
"You can oil a waxed chain, no problem. I bring a tiny bottle in my jersey pocket for longer races."
Wait, what? A waxed chain needs oil added to make it through ONE race? This waxing-cult thing's a bigger scam than I thought! :-)
@@larryt.atcycleitalia5786 What chain lubricant can last 300km race that goes through rivers, dust fields and mud?
I use the Silca Super Secret Chain Coating, I did the on the bike chain stripper method, according to Josh's video on the Silca channel that method is very close to the immersion method if you apply it twice with a wait between applications I'm not a fast rider or normally go far, I ride to work and errands and the occasional just for fun ride and so far its been working fine I don't have any mileage to wear data I just don't keep track of those things I check my bike over before I ride and once a month I check my bike over, chain wear, bolts, wipe it down and lube the chain, the only thing is supposedly if you apply SSCC you should wait 24 hours before riding, for me its more like 12 hours
Overall I'm fine with it.
Well I’m convinced.. I’m gonna properly use squirt, I didn’t know the chain needed to be prepped😮
If going for a drip wax, i suggest UFO drip for dry/dusty climates, or silca super secret for wet/muddy environments.
Based off test data from zero friction cycling. (The chain wax wizzard!)
Molten waxes are much better fyi. They keep your chain in better shape.
Molten speed wax for dry/dusty, silca secret for wet/muddy.
If you can't find the Silca for a top off just use whatever other wax drip on you can find. You can use oil in a pinch, but then you'll just have to clean everything again.
@@mikemazzantini6397 thanks!
My bike (bought in 2023) pretty fortunately camera from the factory with wax applied, since then I've been using squirt wax and also have friends riding their waxed chain for 20k km+, not looking to go back to oil, but I think from a convenience standpoint I'm gonna stick to that over hot waxing.
Side note, don't say you want to be sponsored, in that moment you're basically already promoting the product, making it obsolete for the company to give you money for it :)
I use Silca’s immersion wax at the start, then their drip wax. I ride over 230 mi/week (380 km) and after a 1000 mi (1600 km) I use the immersion wax again. Rinse and repeat.
@@BobGrove that’s what I’m planning on doing.
Similar experience here:
(Riding MTB/Gravel in sandstone area also in wet/muddy conditions)
Regular Chain oil: horrible mess, the cheapest one ate up an E-MTB chain during winter in about 1000km.
Squirt:
- no more immediate mess
- Chains lasting well so far (Gravel ~3000km and going, MTB >2000km and going)
- But Wax residue buildup is still a minor issue (black wax spots on floor tiles, wax buildup on derailleur wheels, cassete, chainrings))
- Smooth failure over ~20km after >150km. Reapplication during gravel ride at least possible (though overnight drying still recommended).
Tried Super Secret, too:
- Application a bit cleaner
- Quick catastrophic fail during bikepacking: within 10km in wet/muddy singletrack from well-lubed to a squeaky mess. Had to buy Oil at the
next LBS as I had no spare with me.
- Seems even "runnier" thant Squirt, I guess the 8 hour drying time is not a joke.
Conclusion:
- I'll use up that (expensive 39€) Silca bottle on my road bike, and stay with Squirt.
- Squirt is more for the offroad/dirty "common man", does the 80/20 principle.
- Silca is for the high-end roadbike fan squeezing out the last few percent.
Thanks. Welcome to my channel. Hope you like other videos too. - Adam
I still search a "cheap" wax solution. Last 2 years, I used melted candle wax mixed with PTFE powder. Am I happy? Not so. Sure, it's better than any oil. Chain has pretty much no wear, after 5000 kilometers, but becomes dirty - just the same as you showed - after application of the Squirt. Silca might be next step...
Thanks. Welcome to my channel. Hope you like other videos too. - Adam
I switched to wax back in 2020, I have 3 bikes in rotation, but have not replaced a chain since!
UFO Drip has even less residue than Silca Super Secret.
Ive seen great things from it on zero friction data charts.
I feel its best used as a top up for molten speed wax. This combo seems like it wil provide superior results from ideal to dry dusty conditions. Silca's wax performs better in wet, muddy, extreme conditions.
Silca has more friction with a fresh waxing than molten speed wax.
I switched from Smoove/Squirt drip-on to Silca immersion waxing about 3 years ago. I have never bothered with a oil chain l,ube & have only used wax based drip-ons. I have noticed that immersion waxed chains feel cleaner & that the immersion waxed chain sounds somewhat quieter than pure drip-on (but suspect that is "wishful thinking" as I do not measure that), but the real difference is a measurable increase in lifespan for cassette & chain with an immersion wax treatment compared to drip-on only. I have not tried the Silca cleaning pod yet, so still clean my bicycle chains using the chemical process (gatorade bottle) & then flashing with a high % alcohol as per Zero Friction Cycling which does take about a day & which I would do anyway for drip-ons. I do not use a slow-cooker for waxing - just the boil -in-the-bag Super Secret wax in a pot of hot water. I initialy tried rewaxing every 200 miles (2 x per month) but that wore out quick links way too fast, so now I use a drip-on wax (Super Secret, Smoove or Squirt) to top-up between rides & only re-wax every 3 months (around 1,800km). I am getting at least 2 x distance out of a road cassette & chain before showing even 0.5% wear using this approach - i.e. immersion wax & wax drip-on top-up compared to drip-on only! I recently switched my MTB over from pure drip-on to the immersion waxing/drip-on top up & although I still need to confirm improvement it is approaching the 2 x distance mark for chain / cassette with less than 0.5% wear measured on the chain so this seems to be consistent for my limited sample set. I am not advocating marginal gains in speed, watts saved, etc but the 50% savings on cassette / chain replacement costs cannot be denied for essentially the same effort.
Thanks. Welcome to my channel. Hope you like other videos too. - Adam