lagging behind, but where you go , we follow😀. I got my stepper motor today and the controller and pulse modulator - your video is soo useful to get the things connected up without doing a degree...much appreciated chap
I would fit an on/off switch on the mains input together with a correctly sized input fuse and a LED pilot lamp driven from the 24V line to remind you that it is on.
@@MachiningwithJoe helping people learn how to make there workshops more efficient with things that they didn't know or know how to solve helps everyone , that helps everyone grow and give insights on how to upgrade and tailor for what they need😎, it definitely has for me, many thanks for that, much appreciated 🙂👍🙏
As a complete novice to this subject this explained so much i have 3 stepper motors that came off the mill originally it was set up as a CNC mill but its an older sherline knock off and i couldnt find the program to run it and i wanted a manual machine,i am looking to connect up two of the stepper motors as a power feed for 'Z' and 'Y' axis
What is the use of half current and full current? Currently I am using dm542 and nema 17! What pulse per revolution should I choose for nema17? And does more pulse means more speed?
Very good video. My question is how do I wire another switch in to change direction of the motor? I want to use a DPDT center off 6 pole momentary switch to change the direction of the motor. The two wires that are connected to the center 2 posts of this switch are the ones that get reversed depending on which way you move switch. Which two wires would I hook to these center posts that would control the direction of the motor?
Do you have a pulse generator that resets to zero when it's turned on so there's no surprise movement at start? How do you have the speed knob wired and where did you locate it? Is it possible to have a pulse spin dial connected at the same time a constant pulse generator is in the system? Have you tried using any switches wired to dip contacts? Any info or pointers to other specific videos would be GREATLY appreciated! Thanks for the video!
So from my knowledge the motor will only draw the current it’s rated to other than a bit more on start up. So I thought 10A was a safe number not to low and not to high to avoid extra cost
Hi Joe. How are you bro. I installed the y axis stepper motor same as you have in my Cnc router 6090 machine but the problem is y axis direction changes traveling directions like when I use y+ machine moves forward and when I push y- it moves backward like both moves opposite direction and machine is also not going home correct
@6:30 With "Pulses per revolution" you set microstepping., so the lower the number, the higher the speed and torque. The higher this number, the slower the motor turns, but has a more accurate position (also looses torque!) There is a lot to read about miscrostepping..
Thank you for your input I’ll have to read up on this some more as I’m wanting to use this setup for my mill now so would be good to set everything up for more torque.
Without shorting the wire, spin the motor, it should spin freely although you will feel the magnetics. Now, take any two wires and short them together. Spin the motor. One of two things will occur, nothing, and great resistance. If you feel the resistance, you found one coil. The other wires will be the other coil, test by shorting them (make sure the original pair are no longer shorted) and spin motor. This effect is due to back EMF. The spinning creates an electric current, which in turn creates a magnetic field which interacts with the magnets causing the resistance.
Another quick way to check if the wires are a pair is if you hold two of them together and can spin the motor if the motor is tougher to turn when there touching. Saves having to bust out the ohm meter
THAT WORKS !!! I was thinking you were playing a JOKE and I was in for a SHOCK !!! BLUE-YELLOW and RED-GREEN holding these together was harder to turn the Motor :) Thanks
Hi Tony, First of all welcome to the channel hope you enjoy my content and find some of it useful. So the box I got from toolstation and here’s the link. www.toolstation.com/imo-stag-ip56-enclosure/p50968
Thanks very much for this informative channel. Going to build the drive for my mill. Could you provide information on the controller on off switch. Thanks. Tom
Hi Joe. Good video, would have been nice to have seen the motor running, and as an additional comment, what happened to the white wire?🤔. One improvement would be to use an external changeover switch and potentiometer to control direction and speed, instead of cutting a hole in the box. I’m planning to fit an XYZ DRO to my new mill WM16B, and power the table and head lift . The thought is to use the same electronics i.e. PSU, PWM and Driver for both, and switch between the two stepper motors, and thoughts. Cheers Noel
Hi ofrex if you check out my video on adding a power feed to the lathe you will see the motor in action. Do you mean the White wire coming from the motor ? If so because I used a connector plug between the motor and controller the wire colours differ end to end.
Good but still no information on the minor but important details like the Jumpers.. I still have no instruction on whether I use PWM or Freq for my Stepper and the 3 choices of Frequency.. Also you don't point out that if you don't connect the ENA cable then the button switch on the Pulse PCB doesn't work.. I am looking for explanations/consequences.. not just descriptions.. Thank you
lagging behind, but where you go , we follow😀. I got my stepper motor today and the controller and pulse modulator - your video is soo useful to get the things connected up without doing a degree...much appreciated chap
Really glad the video has helped you out it’s a great upgrade well worth it. All the best.
Thanks Joe for another excellent video.
Nice one Joe, good to see your channel followers growing in number, keep posting.
Thanks Matt.
Yeah numbers growing slowly and I’ll carry on making videos to hopefully help you guys out.
Excellent detailing. all the best and be blessed..
Nice one Joe, very clearly explained.
Thank you Pete glad you enjoyed.
⅔@@MachiningwithJoe
Spot on Joe! Keep um coming Mate!
Will do cheers 👍
Pretty well Explained. Thank you.
Thank you ..That's a nice video easy to grasp it .
Glad it made sense to you.
I would fit an on/off switch on the mains input together with a correctly sized input fuse and a LED pilot lamp driven from the 24V line to remind you that it is on.
Thank you for the advise Horus great input 👍
New video, gets a automatic like 😎👍
Thank you glad you enjoyed it.
@@MachiningwithJoe always enjoy the content, helps get the workshop more efficient 😎👍
Thank you again. Glad my videos are helping people out as well as allowing me to learn new skills. 👍
@@MachiningwithJoe helping people learn how to make there workshops more efficient with things that they didn't know or know how to solve helps everyone , that helps everyone grow and give insights on how to upgrade and tailor for what they need😎, it definitely has for me, many thanks for that, much appreciated 🙂👍🙏
I ended up installing the Nano ELS. Its quite handy in that it essentially turns the lathe into a CNC of sorts.
Thank you. Shows me what I need to do.
As a complete novice to this subject this explained so much i have 3 stepper motors that came off the mill originally it was set up as a CNC mill but its an older sherline knock off and i couldnt find the program to run it and i wanted a manual machine,i am looking to connect up two of the stepper motors as a power feed for 'Z' and 'Y' axis
What is the use of half current and full current?
Currently I am using dm542 and nema 17!
What pulse per revolution should I choose for nema17?
And does more pulse means more speed?
Very good video. My question is how do I wire another switch in to change direction of the motor? I want to use a DPDT center off 6 pole momentary switch to change the direction of the motor. The two wires that are connected to the center 2 posts of this switch are the ones that get reversed depending on which way you move switch. Which two wires would I hook to these center posts that would control the direction of the motor?
Nice one matey thank you very much
Hi why I cannot turn the hand crank on a lathe after I install the stepper motor thanks Eli
The stepper motor is hard to turn even when powered off because of the opposing coils. You will have to slip the belt off to hand crank.
cnc not need turn manual newer. keyboard have buttons can turn axis.
Nice video, thanks for sharing :)
Very helpful Thanks!
Your welcome
Awesome I need some help with a set up here
Do you have a pulse generator that resets to zero when it's turned on so there's no surprise movement at start? How do you have the speed knob wired and where did you locate it? Is it possible to have a pulse spin dial connected at the same time a constant pulse generator is in the system? Have you tried using any switches wired to dip contacts? Any info or pointers to other specific videos would be GREATLY appreciated! Thanks for the video!
How do you match up the power supply and motor? I see you're using a 10 amp ps to power the 4.2 amp motor. Thank you
So from my knowledge the motor will only draw the current it’s rated to other than a bit more on start up. So I thought 10A was a safe number not to low and not to high to avoid extra cost
Is that metric or imperial ohms?
Hi Joe. How are you bro. I installed the y axis stepper motor same as you have in my Cnc router 6090 machine but the problem is y axis direction changes traveling directions like when I use y+ machine moves forward and when I push y- it moves backward like both moves opposite direction and machine is also not going home correct
@6:30 With "Pulses per revolution" you set microstepping., so the lower the number, the higher the speed and torque. The higher this number, the slower the motor turns, but has a more accurate position (also looses torque!)
There is a lot to read about miscrostepping..
Thank you for your input I’ll have to read up on this some more as I’m wanting to use this setup for my mill now so would be good to set everything up for more torque.
@@MachiningwithJoe Cheers!
Thank you !
Without shorting the wire, spin the motor, it should spin freely although you will feel the magnetics. Now, take any two wires and short them together. Spin the motor. One of two things will occur, nothing, and great resistance. If you feel the resistance, you found one coil. The other wires will be the other coil, test by shorting them (make sure the original pair are no longer shorted) and spin motor. This effect is due to back EMF. The spinning creates an electric current, which in turn creates a magnetic field which interacts with the magnets causing the resistance.
Could you add a rotary switch to control rpm of stepper?
Hi yes I do have a potentiometer on the circuit to control speed. I found myself mainly using it on the slowest speed to give best surface finish.
@@MachiningwithJoe You could try to set a a higher steps/rev value ;-)
Another quick way to check if the wires are a pair is if you hold two of them together and can spin the motor if the motor is tougher to turn when there touching. Saves having to bust out the ohm meter
THAT WORKS !!! I was thinking you were playing a JOKE and I was in for a SHOCK !!! BLUE-YELLOW and RED-GREEN holding these together was harder to turn the Motor :) Thanks
Hi, I have only just found your channel. Could you let me know where you got the enclosure for the electrical components please.
Hi Tony,
First of all welcome to the channel hope you enjoy my content and find some of it useful.
So the box I got from toolstation and here’s the link.
www.toolstation.com/imo-stag-ip56-enclosure/p50968
Thanks very much for this informative channel. Going to build the drive for my mill. Could you provide information on the controller on off switch. Thanks. Tom
My only comment would be if there was a wiring diagram available. Trying to follow the video and the wiring is difficult. Other than that...excellent.
Hi Joe. Good video, would have been nice to have seen the motor running, and as an additional comment, what happened to the white wire?🤔.
One improvement would be to use an external changeover switch and potentiometer to control direction and speed, instead of cutting a hole in the box. I’m planning to fit an XYZ DRO to my new mill WM16B, and power the table and head lift . The thought is to use the same electronics i.e. PSU, PWM and Driver for both, and switch between the two stepper motors, and thoughts. Cheers Noel
Hi ofrex if you check out my video on adding a power feed to the lathe you will see the motor in action. Do you mean the White wire coming from the motor ? If so because I used a connector plug between the motor and controller the wire colours differ end to end.
Love those dewalt tool holders where did you get them from joe? Or were they 3d printed?
They are 3D printed but not by me. I got them off eBay fairly cheap.
Would be handy to wire in an endstop switch on a carriage stop. I get much better cuts when I let it auto feed. Deffo going to do this mod.
Yeah completely agree a carriage stop would be better and more safe.
@@MachiningwithJoe Couldn't that just be done with a switch at each end of travel wired in series on the power to the pulse on the controller?
Bonjour. Je vous souhaite de nous faire un vidéo pour mouver une table en longueur et largeur par deux motors. Thank you so much
24 volt to motors too less, need lot more volts run better. normal nema 23 motors used 36-48 volt and biggest motors used best running 80-90 volt.
Good but still no information on the minor but important details like the Jumpers.. I still have no instruction on whether I use PWM or Freq for my Stepper and the 3 choices of Frequency.. Also you don't point out that if you don't connect the ENA cable then the button switch on the Pulse PCB doesn't work.. I am looking for explanations/consequences.. not just descriptions.. Thank you
Pulse is not speed.... its resolution
Stupid bell on the intro,