Wood glue or epoxy glue. Open the joint and work the glue into the opening. Buy a strap with a ratchet. Uhaul or hardware stores sell the straps. Using an "L" bracket would be like repairing a Les Paul neck break with a metal plate and screws. It works but there are better options. I.e. glue and wood blocks along the seperated joints....
The strap is used as a clamp. Wrap it around the box after you glue it. Ratchet it tight and leave it overnight. Remover the strap and reassemble the cab.... ratcheting straps are great for certain large item needing a unique approach.
Playing through a 4x12 is a true adrenaline boost. I think every guitarist that plays through one for the first time has a huge smile on their face. Just feeling those four speakers moving air as you stand in front of it--- majestic! The first Marshall 1960A I tried with the matching JCM 900 4100 head back in the early 90's, there was no going back to a combo or any other set up after that. I have to say I am completely jealous of you having a studio space to crank that amp and cab up. I have my amp heads and 4x12, but can't use it without an attenuator/ load box in my current home studio set-up. Glad to see you having a blast playing through your new acquisition, Rhett. Enjoy that Marshall cab, man. 🤘😎🤘
Don't use brackets, glue and screw a length of square pine along each corner. Creates a block joint. Brackets have no strength in that situation. You can use a ratchet strap to pull the joins in. PVA glue worked into the joins first of course!
Just seeing the smile on you face makes it all worth it, I do wood working other than pull the covers off and exposing the frame and re-gluing the joints you did the most particle thing to do and adequate bracing and glue job. Job well done and congrats again. And it sounds awesome.
I got that exact cab plus head in 1992 as a twelve-year-old. My poor mum had to help lug the ridiculous rig to every band rehearsal and gig. The head is gone, but I'm still using the cab in the studio almost 30 years later! Good investment, especially on my parents' side!
Oh My goodness. Could of ripped the Tolex. reglued and possibly spliced some fresh wood. then re-Tolexed. For weeks of spectacular diy content. After all it was already destroyed. Everything to gain. And legend level documentation to boot.
I fixed a 1960A that was broken in a similar manner. It had gotten wet and the glue joints gave out. All of them. I was going to recover it anyway and convert it to 1969 pinstripe specs. When I removed the old tolex, the cabinet fell COMPLETELY apart. I simply cleaned the old glue out of the glue joints and glued the cabinet back together, and did the rest of the conversion and new tolex job. It came out great. To fix that cabinet right, you'll end up recovering it.
The glue Marshall use to affix the tolex is heat activated. Get yourself a heat gun or even a hair dryer to heat up the tolex and carefully peel back the tolex to make your repairs and then heat it back up to glue back in place. Have fun man.
While I admire your desire to play your new cab as soon as possible, I really would recommend removing the speaker panel itself and repair it as others have said. Get it down to the wooden box it is, then regale the seams by putting glue INTO the joint, strap clamp it together and leave it over night. What you have now sounds amazing and great but even though it's together now and is a studio-only piece of gear, it will be far better if you do a complete fix rather than a patch. I admire you for taking a chance on it but for both your sakes (you and the amp), do what really needs to be done. Phenomenal playing like always too!
Matchless uses a 1x1 block in the corners all the way from the front rail to the back, glued and screwed for reinforcement. This makes the corners very sturdy.
Now I want a 4×12 cab, a plexi, and a basement to crank it up in .. Congratulations on this relatively small achievement! Looking forward to the studio build adventure!
Those 'L' brackets are ok but will eventually flex and move with temp changes. Instead ,In addition to working Glue into the separated joints , Glue and screw full length wood blocks in each corner then clamp them up for a day, in addition to strap clamping the entire cabinet. That wood will add some weight but should stay rock solid if you do a good job. Cool cab. Yeah I had an amp I ordered skewered by a forklift and very obviously completely mangled.. but the trucking company still delivered it that way to the store ..and the store refused to refund my deposit as if it was my tough luck....gave me store credit instead....seems like trucking companies just don't give a shit if a box is large/heavy...and takes some care to handle. ... .hey yo fugget about it..whaddya ya gonna do?!? But Marshall should do a better job of crating up their large/heavy stuff ..this kind of thing is pretty common ...of course that would have to raise the price...
I'm 0% proficient with DIY repairs, but is there really enough temperature fluctuation to cause problems if it's just sitting in an iso-booth for it's entire life? Unless the heat and AC go out often, is it really going to make a difference?
@@ATotalDork As long as the glue completely penetrated all the way through all the finger joints and made good bonds and the cabinet is never moved much .... Maybe not... but why do a half-ass job when it's not much more work to fix it right?? One-and-done and then you can move it if you need to afterwards and no worries. If you have ever had to chase down a weird intermittent 'frequency-related' buzzing in a cab...you would know it can be a pain..and you don't want it happening in the middle of a recording session...Now that I think about it, it would be a good idea to remove the speaker baffle and inspect the baffle mounting strips because they might have been split or splintered. He said some of the screws seemed stripped which means they were ripped loose ..not good. Anything with enough force to bust out the finger joints could have weakened,/cracked them..also make sure all the speaker mounting screws are sufficiently tight. I'm really surprised none of the voice coils are rubbing apparently there are no warped baskets. Anyway that's what my OCD would force me to do....but thats just me...Cheers!
had the same feelings regarding the steel work lol felt like sacrilege lol I woulda been worried about the glue not getting into the joints proper think I'd of probably tore back the tolex or whatever and gone into those joints to make sure. I'd paranoid about little unintentional air escaping through the cracks and affecting the sound lol
@@charlesoxley7242 Honestly wood glue like Titebond 2 or 3 will do the trick. Much better than Gorilla Glue in my experience. With Titebond the bond will be stronger than the material itself. I used that to keep the tolex on my 1x12 on and it’s extremely resistant to climates and I live in Oklahoma. Hope that helps!
Not corny at all, that was a perfectly apt convocation of the new space. And as a cinematographer, I’ve got to say that lighting and singular wide was in symphonic harmony with that full rock bonanza.
As an owner of the same cab purchased around 1990....Yes! These are wonderful cabs, and mine is nicely worn in. Still in like new condition despite lots of moving around, using well-padded (NOT the OEM) covers.
“Bless the space” Well spoken. Nice repair job. I was thinking you would tear it totally apart then glue the joints. Brackets though and job done, Quick and effective. Bravo.
I've had a 4x12 for years now and upgraded the speakers several years ago. Debated on getting rid of it off and on because they are heavy, cumbersome and very loud. But nothing I've ever tried does what they can with a good tube amp. I've got a great 120x tube amp with a volume control and I don't need to play it loud but those speakers still move air and it's very rewarding. I'm not getting rid of it.
I bought a '70 B cab from a broker that used to belong to Robin Trower, and it was broken at all 4 corners. The tolex was so torn up that I just said screw it and peeled it and rebuilt it. I still use it today 30 years later. love it.
Glad you joined the club.... there is no substitute for a 4x12. I am converting one of two standard 1960lead from g12t-75 to g12-65. a mesa v30 recto and an avatar g12h. so much tone....
Rhett, I've fixed a number of tour damaged cabinets just like that. There are two things: Dowels and Cleats. Take the cabinet apart, clamp it square and drill and dowel the joints each way (perpendicular dowels spaced down the edge) and put cleats on the inside corners. Repair the tolex if necessary. No rattles and they are stronger after repair than when new. Never had one come back after repair.
Dear Rhett, great video! But it is not from a Hendrix (reissue) stack. Marshall were starting to built the oversized top cabs (A) in the 90s. The original oversized 4x12 (B) from the 60s was a bottom cab. The original limited Hendrix stack was from 1994 and in purple tolex. The limited Edition Super 100JH Handwired Jimi Hendrix Stack from 2006 also came with an oversized bottom cab in black tolex.
Man I couldn’t even watch that “repair”. So many easy ways to have done that so much better. That cabinet was worth an actual repair instead of a temporary kludge
I'd have taken it apart a bit more and glued it. Then glued it again with thin superglue leeched into the edges of the tolex. Epoxy inside along all the edges.
I’ve seen Keith Richards telling a story about an amp getting dropped before a show. Was torn up. I think there was a hole in the speaker etc. Said it sounded AMAZING. The sound he’d been after. Sounds Sweet Rhett!!
Man, that cab sounds killer! Those greenbacks have a really nice, creamy sound when they’re breaking up - I think it will enjoy living at your house, and you will make it feel right at home!
@@TheTapMusic that’s the MKI Tone Bender Sola Sound that he picked up at Macari’s in London I believe. It sounds just like it and has the tone and volume of a Tone Bender. Edit: oh yeah it’s definitely the Tone Bender MKI I can see the cheese wedge 🧀 shape. Nothing like it….but yeah you definitely need that amp break up or a drive pedal for full Fuzz Glory
I own that same model cabinet. Special ordered from the UK back in around 2003. Paired with my JCM2000 TSL 60 head… Rock and roll baby. Love the 25W UK greenbacks.
My best cab was a a broken one too. You can barely see it on my profile pic. I repaired and slapped new custom red and black tolex, loaded with creamback 75's. It's huge sounding. Love it!
The last 4x12 cab I had was a Mesa Oversize Retro. It weighed 120+ pounds. I bought it used on 30th st in Manhattan NYC and rolled it up 7th ave past Madison Square Garden to my church and took it up a flight of stairs. To this day, 30yrs later it was one of my finest memories. It sounded glorious.
Rhett run a bass through it to see if you get and vibration noises. Also what I would do is get a glue syringe and inject epoxy into the break. Been there done that. Works great.
If the baffle screws are a bit stripped we used to dip wooden match sticks in wood glue and fill the hole. Works like a charm and doesn't leave the baffle looking like Swiss cheese.
Load some fiberglass insulation bat inside of there, so as long as it's not touring or being exposed to hot sun and humidity it will not damage speakers. Tightens things up considerably by reducing the wooliness in the low mids, better 'focus'
There are more than a few UA-cam videos on replacing the Tolex on cabs.It's not difficult just annoying and time consuming. It is, however, the right way to rebuild this cab. Band Aid fixes don't work on motorcycles or audio equipment. Too much vibration. Take it apart. Repair the joints with full length wood blocks etc as detailed below. Put a new skin on it and enjoy the fruits of your labor.Great playing as always ,Rhett.
4x12's Rule. Move that air brother. I would definitely rebuild (re glue all the joints) and recover it. They use a form of cotton backed PVC now. The grill looked perfect. It'll last you a life time and drive the niebohrs nuts. Have fun.
Finally, a heading that lives up to its word....killer tone my man. Glad you got that cab up and blazing. And throwing in the appearance of pet and the Custard Pie riff was a bonus.
I bought a 212 Marshall cab slapped 2 Creambaks same issues as you it was like the the builder screwed everything together half way...tightened and glued it is an amazing cab now....rite on man
If the baffle board screws went in tight and the holes were not stripped they were not forced out from shipping damage, they were never screwed in to start with.
I picked up a Marshall 2551BV Jubilee 4x12 a few years back with almost identical damage. In my experience it has nothing to do with Marshall’s build quality or materials, and everything to do with their substandard shipping materials and packing techniques. The box containing your cabinet was likely dropped on one of the corners during shipping (probably more than once!), which caused the cabinet to become wracked until the finger joints at the bottom corners finally gave way under the pressure. Simultaneously, as the cabinet was wracked out of square the baffle screws tore free from their anchor points, further compounding the problem. The main issue is Marshall does not use any sort of internal bracing or support in their shipping containers to prevent the cabinets from becoming excessively wracked when they’re inevitably mishandled during shipping. They basically cram a heavy and extremely bulky 4x12 cab into a cheap flimsy cardboard box, slap a shipping label on it, and off it goes. It’s inconceivable that Marshall is somehow not aware of the problem, so presumably enough 4x12 cabs make it to retailers unscathed it’s not worth the cost or effort to improve their packing materials or techniques. The silver lining is if you’re not bothered by a few minor cosmetic blemishes, and you’re willing to spend 15-20 minutes doing some light repair work, you can usually get a sweet Marshall 4x12 cabinet for next to nothing. Rock on!
That sounds amazing. Money well spent. You sound great. Plexi just around the corner. Stay safe and well and keep Rocking. Signed John Gregory/ Zepbass from Munster Indiana.
I've got a Hiwatt cab from a pawn shop where the bottom of it was just falling out every time you'd pick it up. Did a similar sort of repair on it, and it sounds amazing.
I have had at least 30 various cabs in my life.... My Marshall 1960BX is the bee's knees! G12H 25W speakers rule the world. I still have about ten cabs and this is my goto!
I agree with Framus-the corner braces are a good quick-fix, but I would strongly suggest making full-length cleats out of a hard wood and glue and screw them into the corners. I would screw the cleats up through the bottom and if you don’t want to see screws on the sides you could see if you can peel back the shell then glue it back into place once the screws are in. I would also recommend doing what you suggested and relocate the screws for the front-they will keep working themselves lose over time. In addition to being a musician, I’m also a woodworker ;-) Comes in handy…
My 1st 4X12 had to be Hendrix! My last 4X12 turned into a wet/dry. I can go to the new owner and crank w/ 100w head - again Hendrix. In the day Roadies on acid & Cuervo could be tough on cabs… I’ve seen many Marshall cabs resurrected as your viewers suggest. Great addition to the studio.
I've been playing electric guitar for 50 years - not that I improved much or achieved much. But I encountered Greenbacks very quickly and they do have "the sound" IMO they are the ideal speaker if you are playing with any kind of grit or distortion. I readily concede that Greenbacks are not the best for sparkly clean tones because they do have a warm, dirty sound of their own when they are driven. I used to play through a home-built Marshall pre-amp driven by a Germanium transistor booster into a TRANSISTOR amp into 2x12 Greenbacks. Guitarists who came up to talk to me at gigs thought it was an obscure valve amp and were amazed to learn it was transistors. (FET's in the pre-amp and transformer-coupled silicon output stage) I've tried several speakers over the decades and always come back to the Celestion G12's. I have no idea whether the ones made recently are the same but I for sure believe that the Greenbacks I have from the mid Seventies are the best guitar speaker for Rock guitar - warm but with enough bite.
I use 4x12" cabinets since I started to play guitar in 1993, because they deliver the best and huge sound to my ears. They're big, heavy but unbeatable!
Just sold one of these greenback loaded Marshall cabs from the 90s. Absolutely phenomenal cab but I already have an oversized 212 loaded with vintage ev12mls and a Friedman straight cab on the way (and of course a be100 dlx to match all in green tolex).
Tie down straps FTW. When clamping a box (especially one already half-together), you can use a tie-down strap to compress the joints while the glue cures. They have tons of other uses besides, especially for musicians.
A lot of people seem to miss the impact different speakers and cabs have on your tone - I'm sure I've done it too, but there is something magical about having a 4x12 behind you.
I had the same thing happen to a JMI Amps AC30. I glued it back together and installed cleats in the corners. I used camps to tighten everything back together. I would not use the L brackets. I used to gig that exact same rig you have. Riteous.
Nice cab and a great deal too. Sounds awesome! I used to have a 4 x 12 slant and a 100 watt Marshall head in the 80's. I cranked it up in my basement bar room and blew some glasses off of the bar. It sounded and felt so awesome! I don't want to go into why I don't have it anymore it still hurts.😢 Congrats Rhett! I can't wait to see the completed studio.
Sounds Killer! The job you did should be fine for studio use. I used to restore these things and build other cabs and amps for a living. If you ever want tips on how to bring this thing back without brackets, gimme a shout.
Rhett, I think you should have spread the broken joints apart and put glue into them. Clamped the cab anyway possible even if you laid it on its side and put weight on it. I don't think the metal "L" brackets were the answer. The screws can possibly back out with vibration. Fantastic cabinet though. Marshall cabs are amazing especially the one you bought. Great purchase my man.
I’m building an oversized Marshall 2x12 clone right now, it looks like a slightly smaller 4x12 straight Marshall cab. Just got the vintage 30 and neo cream back, and the teal tolex. Can’t wait to finish building it. Love Marshall cabs .
Nice repair to bring the cabinet back to life. It sounds great! If the L brackets ultimately aren't strong enough, some perforated angle sections in those corners will strengthen it up.
Man, there is nothing like pushing air with a 412 cab. I got my first 412 last year, an Orange PPC412 and it’s one of my very favorite pieces of gear. That Marshall cab is DOPE.
Touring the northwest back in 2006, my Marshall 4x12 flew off the top of the roof rack, it landed on the highway at 60mph. Luckily it didn’t hit anybody. We picked it up and threw it back on the roof rack, secured it and that night I gigged with that cab. It sounded better. Once back home I checked it and the baffle was cracked in half. The cab was just scratched and one V30 was gone, tored apart.
Oh shit what a great first time out for that cabinet. Good luck and I wish you many hours of good music with it. You are definitely deserving of such a uniquely plucked artifact.
wood glue and a corner clamp. wipe off excess glue inside and out. once dried, cut some pieces of wood to length of the inside of the cab and screw them in to reinforce the sides. Paint the outside black to cover up imperfections and you're good to go.
Looking forward to the studio build series. Also, glad that you took the time to talk about the torque clutch on the drill so that people don’t start sinking hardware 3 inches into the back of their cabinets.
I picked up a older oversized Carvin 4x12 for $125. I got it and looked inside and it had 4 EVM12Ls in it which are some of my favorite speakers and that was about a grands worth of them. I put them in a 2x12 and a couple of matching 1x12s. The EVs were just too heavy in a already heavy 4x12 so I put lighter speakers in it. I’ve thought about putting Neo creambacks in the 412 eventually to lighten it up.
The smile on your face after you played said it all. I liked it from the first notes. I concur with the notes on working glue into the broken joints. The brackets will get you by for a bit, but there's going to be leakage. The sound won't be as tight as it could be. But then, that may not be such a bad thing.... reference "The smile." Borrow an identical 4x12 if you can and compare and go with your gut. Looking forward to seeing your studio build series. Don't wait too long to set up the bar and beer fridge down there. ;)
“Bless this space with Rock and Roll”. Well said!
@@EarthSouthside as it should in front of that gorgeous cabinet.
....before getting in an exorcist to deal with that slide tone.
Wood glue or epoxy glue. Open the joint and work the glue into the opening. Buy a strap with a ratchet. Uhaul or hardware stores sell the straps.
Using an "L" bracket would be like repairing a Les Paul neck break with a metal plate and screws. It works but there are better options. I.e. glue and wood blocks along the seperated joints....
The strap is used as a clamp. Wrap it around the box after you glue it. Ratchet it tight and leave it overnight. Remover the strap and reassemble the cab.... ratcheting straps are great for certain large item needing a unique approach.
^ this
Yep, I figured I wasn’t the only one to suggest this method. 😎
Yes, this^^^^ Dude, some kind of clamps and get the glue in the joint.
Excellent idea!😎🥸
Thank you for christening this cab with CUSTARD PIE! Not many people rock this riff when testing amps & guitars so thank you Rhett!
One of my favorites🎶😎🎸🎸💯
Still on my band's set list! Really, most things from Physical Graffiti should be on people's set lists.
I do... Well I was born in 1967 so maybe thats why?
the truth is, most casual Zep fans don't even know this classic song. Most just know Kashmir from PG only. Sad but true!
Tasty playing!!! That amp and cab kick arse!!!
Playing through a 4x12 is a true adrenaline boost. I think every guitarist that plays through one for the first time has a huge smile on their face. Just feeling those four speakers moving air as you stand in front of it--- majestic! The first Marshall 1960A I tried with the matching JCM 900 4100 head back in the early 90's, there was no going back to a combo or any other set up after that. I have to say I am completely jealous of you having a studio space to crank that amp and cab up. I have my amp heads and 4x12, but can't use it without an attenuator/ load box in my current home studio set-up. Glad to see you having a blast playing through your new acquisition, Rhett. Enjoy that Marshall cab, man. 🤘😎🤘
Don't use brackets, glue and screw a length of square pine along each corner. Creates a block joint. Brackets have no strength in that situation. You can use a ratchet strap to pull the joins in. PVA glue worked into the joins first of course!
Just seeing the smile on you face makes it all worth it, I do wood working other than pull the covers off and exposing the frame and re-gluing the joints you did the most particle thing to do and adequate bracing and glue job. Job well done and congrats again. And it sounds awesome.
I got that exact cab plus head in 1992 as a twelve-year-old. My poor mum had to help lug the ridiculous rig to every band rehearsal and gig. The head is gone, but I'm still using the cab in the studio almost 30 years later! Good investment, especially on my parents' side!
The joy in your eyes after you played, that‘s what it‘s all about! Love your channel!!
Oh My goodness.
Could of ripped the Tolex. reglued and possibly spliced some fresh wood. then re-Tolexed.
For weeks of spectacular diy content.
After all it was already destroyed. Everything to gain. And legend level documentation to boot.
I second the recommendation of clamping and woodblocking those jounts
I fixed a 1960A that was broken in a similar manner. It had gotten wet and the glue joints gave out. All of them. I was going to recover it anyway and convert it to 1969 pinstripe specs. When I removed the old tolex, the cabinet fell COMPLETELY apart. I simply cleaned the old glue out of the glue joints and glued the cabinet back together, and did the rest of the conversion and new tolex job. It came out great. To fix that cabinet right, you'll end up recovering it.
The glue Marshall use to affix the tolex is heat activated. Get yourself a heat gun or even a hair dryer to heat up the tolex and carefully peel back the tolex to make your repairs and then heat it back up to glue back in place. Have fun man.
The basement jam was a great idea. It's the best two minutes of cinematography I've seen here on UA-cam. (...and I watch A LOT of UA-cam.)
While I admire your desire to play your new cab as soon as possible, I really would recommend removing the speaker panel itself and repair it as others have said. Get it down to the wooden box it is, then regale the seams by putting glue INTO the joint, strap clamp it together and leave it over night. What you have now sounds amazing and great but even though it's together now and is a studio-only piece of gear, it will be far better if you do a complete fix rather than a patch. I admire you for taking a chance on it but for both your sakes (you and the amp), do what really needs to be done. Phenomenal playing like always too!
Having played electric since 1968 . . . this is a must experience to try. The 8:50 wailing surge . . . no words, feel it.
Matchless uses a 1x1 block in the corners all the way from the front rail to the back, glued and screwed for reinforcement. This makes the corners very sturdy.
Now I want a 4×12 cab, a plexi, and a basement to crank it up in ..
Congratulations on this relatively small achievement!
Looking forward to the studio build adventure!
They really are fulfilling the way they move air, distort and give body to your tone. Nothing else compares.
@@RKDriver - Currently occupying an apartment... I'm sure a full stack would go over well for less than 5 minutes...
Its on the dream list
Those 'L' brackets are ok but will eventually flex and move with temp changes. Instead ,In addition to working Glue into the separated joints , Glue and screw full length wood blocks in each corner then clamp them up for a day, in addition to strap clamping the entire cabinet. That wood will add some weight but should stay rock solid if you do a good job. Cool cab. Yeah I had an amp I ordered skewered by a forklift and very obviously completely mangled.. but the trucking company still delivered it that way to the store ..and the store refused to refund my deposit as if it was my tough luck....gave me store credit instead....seems like trucking companies just don't give a shit if a box is large/heavy...and takes some care to handle. ... .hey yo fugget about it..whaddya ya gonna do?!? But Marshall should do a better job of crating up their large/heavy stuff ..this kind of thing is pretty common ...of course that would have to raise the price...
I'm 0% proficient with DIY repairs, but is there really enough temperature fluctuation to cause problems if it's just sitting in an iso-booth for it's entire life? Unless the heat and AC go out often, is it really going to make a difference?
@@ATotalDork As long as the glue completely penetrated all the way through all the finger joints and made good bonds and the cabinet is never moved much .... Maybe not... but why do a half-ass job when it's not much more work to fix it right?? One-and-done and then you can move it if you need to afterwards and no worries. If you have ever had to chase down a weird intermittent 'frequency-related' buzzing in a cab...you would know it can be a pain..and you don't want it happening in the middle of a recording session...Now that I think about it, it would be a good idea to remove the speaker baffle and inspect the baffle mounting strips because they might have been split or splintered. He said some of the screws seemed stripped which means they were ripped loose ..not good. Anything with enough force to bust out the finger joints could have weakened,/cracked them..also make sure all the speaker mounting screws are sufficiently tight. I'm really surprised none of the voice coils are rubbing apparently there are no warped baskets. Anyway that's what my OCD would force me to do....but thats just me...Cheers!
had the same feelings regarding the steel work lol felt like sacrilege lol I woulda been worried about the glue not getting into the joints proper think I'd of probably tore back the tolex or whatever and gone into those joints to make sure. I'd paranoid about little unintentional air escaping through the cracks and affecting the sound lol
Just out of curiosity, do you suppose that something like JB Weld, applied with a syringe into the separated joints would have been a good idea?
@@charlesoxley7242 Honestly wood glue like Titebond 2 or 3 will do the trick. Much better than Gorilla Glue in my experience. With Titebond the bond will be stronger than the material itself.
I used that to keep the tolex on my 1x12 on and it’s extremely resistant to climates and I live in Oklahoma. Hope that helps!
This video and the comments are so wholesome. This is youtube at its best. All kinds of feels. Thanks Rhett!
Custard Pie is the only choice for first riff through your newly minted marshall cab, always.
Nah, Bro, that was Mickey's Monkey from Mother's Finest. 😏😏😏
Mine was Love me like a Reptile from Motörhead
@@robertkelly1434 That was exactly my 1st guess (original vinyl of the live version lives in my rack).
5:23 Use a retractable ratchet tie-down. wrap it around the whole cabinet.
Not corny at all, that was a perfectly apt convocation of the new space. And as a cinematographer, I’ve got to say that lighting and singular wide was in symphonic harmony with that full rock bonanza.
Yeah man the lighting was killer.
As an owner of the same cab purchased around 1990....Yes! These are wonderful cabs, and mine is nicely worn in. Still in like new condition despite lots of moving around, using well-padded (NOT the OEM) covers.
“Bless the space” Well spoken. Nice repair job. I was thinking you would tear it totally apart then glue the joints. Brackets though and job done, Quick and effective. Bravo.
The look on your face when you started playing was priceless
I've had a 4x12 for years now and upgraded the speakers several years ago. Debated on getting rid of it off and on because they are heavy, cumbersome and very loud. But nothing I've ever tried does what they can with a good tube amp. I've got a great 120x tube amp with a volume control and I don't need to play it loud but those speakers still move air and it's very rewarding. I'm not getting rid of it.
I bought a '70 B cab from a broker that used to belong to Robin Trower, and it was broken at all 4 corners. The tolex was so torn up that I just said screw it and peeled it and rebuilt it. I still use it today 30 years later. love it.
Glad you joined the club.... there is no substitute for a 4x12. I am converting one of two standard 1960lead from g12t-75 to g12-65. a mesa v30 recto and an avatar g12h. so much tone....
Rhett, I've fixed a number of tour damaged cabinets just like that. There are two things: Dowels and Cleats. Take the cabinet apart, clamp it square and drill and dowel the joints each way (perpendicular dowels spaced down the edge) and put cleats on the inside corners. Repair the tolex if necessary. No rattles and they are stronger after repair than when new. Never had one come back after repair.
Dear Rhett, great video! But it is not from a Hendrix (reissue) stack. Marshall were starting to built the oversized top cabs (A) in the 90s. The original oversized 4x12 (B) from the 60s was a bottom cab. The original limited Hendrix stack was from 1994 and in purple tolex. The limited Edition Super 100JH Handwired Jimi Hendrix Stack from 2006 also came with an oversized bottom cab in black tolex.
Rhett just blessed the studio by FUZZING TF OUT OF IT. Gotta love it
Rhett playing guitar just a couple feet from a water heater was a definite throwback moment that brought a tear to my eye. Nice cabinet!
Man I couldn’t even watch that “repair”. So many easy ways to have done that so much better. That cabinet was worth an actual repair instead of a temporary kludge
That smile on your face at about 9:25 really says it all! 😀
I'd have taken it apart a bit more and glued it. Then glued it again with thin superglue leeched into the edges of the tolex. Epoxy inside along all the edges.
Buddy had a similar break on a Ampeg 6x10. Cut a new bottom board and did a dovetail route for it and into crresponding sides. Stronger than ever!
I love the light in that room in the beginning of the video
I’ve seen Keith Richards telling a story about an amp getting dropped before a show. Was torn up. I think there was a hole in the speaker etc. Said it sounded AMAZING. The sound he’d been after. Sounds Sweet Rhett!!
Man, that cab sounds killer! Those greenbacks have a really nice, creamy sound when they’re breaking up - I think it will enjoy living at your house, and you will make it feel right at home!
whenever rhett plays it sounds like there's fuzz inherently built into his fingertips
I think thats due to a real high gain and bass tone.
He definitely turned on a fuzz at the end, or rolled his volume down with one on at the start. Didn’t catch which
@@TheTapMusic that’s the MKI Tone Bender Sola Sound that he picked up at Macari’s in London I believe. It sounds just like it and has the tone and volume of a Tone Bender.
Edit: oh yeah it’s definitely the Tone Bender MKI I can see the cheese wedge 🧀 shape. Nothing like it….but yeah you definitely need that amp break up or a drive pedal for full Fuzz Glory
I own that same model cabinet. Special ordered from the UK back in around 2003. Paired with my JCM2000 TSL 60 head… Rock and roll baby. Love the 25W UK greenbacks.
My best cab was a a broken one too. You can barely see it on my profile pic. I repaired and slapped new custom red and black tolex, loaded with creamback 75's. It's huge sounding. Love it!
The last 4x12 cab I had was a Mesa Oversize Retro. It weighed 120+ pounds. I bought it used on 30th st in Manhattan NYC and rolled it up 7th ave past Madison Square Garden to my church and took it up a flight of stairs. To this day, 30yrs later it was one of my finest memories. It sounded glorious.
Rhett run a bass through it to see if you get and vibration noises. Also what I would do is get a glue syringe and inject epoxy into the break. Been there done that. Works great.
If the baffle screws are a bit stripped we used to dip wooden match sticks in wood glue and fill the hole. Works like a charm and doesn't leave the baffle looking like Swiss cheese.
I would have opened those joints up an little to get the glue into them and used Titebond. But nice sounding Cabinet.
Load some fiberglass insulation bat inside of there, so as long as it's not touring or being exposed to hot sun and humidity it will not damage speakers. Tightens things up considerably by reducing the wooliness in the low mids, better 'focus'
I had the biggest smile on my face when Rhett started playing, but when the fuzz kicked on I actually chuckled out loud it sounded so good.
There are more than a few UA-cam videos on replacing the Tolex on cabs.It's not difficult just annoying and time consuming. It is, however, the right way to rebuild this cab. Band Aid fixes don't work on motorcycles or audio equipment. Too much vibration. Take it apart. Repair the joints with full length wood blocks etc as detailed below. Put a new skin on it and enjoy the fruits of your labor.Great playing as always ,Rhett.
4x12's Rule. Move that air brother. I would definitely rebuild (re glue all the joints) and recover it. They use a form of cotton backed PVC now. The grill looked perfect. It'll last you a life time and drive the niebohrs nuts. Have fun.
Your show is unique! Wide, imaginative range of topics, ALWAYS interesting. Thanks!
High glue then ratchet strap the box is how i would roll with it. Sounds good the way you did it. Sweet score
Finally, a heading that lives up to its word....killer tone my man. Glad you got that cab up and blazing. And throwing in the appearance of pet and the Custard Pie riff was a bonus.
Rocking out in an empty basement... Love it! Sounds great!
I bought a 212 Marshall cab slapped 2 Creambaks same issues as you it was like the the builder screwed everything together half way...tightened and glued it is an amazing cab now....rite on man
Made my day. Good find. Absolutely blessed the new space...MARSHALL.
If the baffle board screws went in tight and the holes were not stripped they were not forced out from shipping damage, they were never screwed in to start with.
Holy Molly!! I am so excited to see that new studio already finished! That amp+cabinet sounds amazing!!
I picked up a Marshall 2551BV Jubilee 4x12 a few years back with almost identical damage. In my experience it has nothing to do with Marshall’s build quality or materials, and everything to do with their substandard shipping materials and packing techniques.
The box containing your cabinet was likely dropped on one of the corners during shipping (probably more than once!), which caused the cabinet to become wracked until the finger joints at the bottom corners finally gave way under the pressure. Simultaneously, as the cabinet was wracked out of square the baffle screws tore free from their anchor points, further compounding the problem.
The main issue is Marshall does not use any sort of internal bracing or support in their shipping containers to prevent the cabinets from becoming excessively wracked when they’re inevitably mishandled during shipping. They basically cram a heavy and extremely bulky 4x12 cab into a cheap flimsy cardboard box, slap a shipping label on it, and off it goes. It’s inconceivable that Marshall is somehow not aware of the problem, so presumably enough 4x12 cabs make it to retailers unscathed it’s not worth the cost or effort to improve their packing materials or techniques.
The silver lining is if you’re not bothered by a few minor cosmetic blemishes, and you’re willing to spend 15-20 minutes doing some light repair work, you can usually get a sweet Marshall 4x12 cabinet for next to nothing. Rock on!
Great addition to your studio. I agree full length wood blocks might be a better permanent solution.
That sounds amazing. Money well spent. You sound great. Plexi just around the corner. Stay safe and well and keep Rocking. Signed John Gregory/ Zepbass from Munster Indiana.
I've got a Hiwatt cab from a pawn shop where the bottom of it was just falling out every time you'd pick it up. Did a similar sort of repair on it, and it sounds amazing.
I have had at least 30 various cabs in my life.... My Marshall 1960BX is the bee's knees! G12H 25W speakers rule the world. I still have about ten cabs and this is my goto!
The video and audio quality of the demo in the unfinished basement is simply stunning, extremely cool and inspiring wow
Could totally gig w that cab. Did a good repair job. Have faith in your abilities dude!
And the neighbors cried ... for more!!! Congrats, what a great addition!
I played 100watts through a 4x12 ONCE. it touched me in places I've never been touched before.
I agree with Framus-the corner braces are a good quick-fix, but I would strongly suggest making full-length cleats out of a hard wood and glue and screw them into the corners. I would screw the cleats up through the bottom and if you don’t want to see screws on the sides you could see if you can peel back the shell then glue it back into place once the screws are in. I would also recommend doing what you suggested and relocate the screws for the front-they will keep working themselves lose over time. In addition to being a musician, I’m also a woodworker ;-) Comes in handy…
Great job fixing it! Cab sounded great mainly with your playing! 🤘🏾🤘🏾
I was thinking the same thing! Good job, should work fine for years to come!
My 1st 4X12 had to be Hendrix! My last 4X12 turned into a wet/dry. I can go to the new owner and crank w/ 100w head - again Hendrix. In the day Roadies on acid & Cuervo could be tough on cabs… I’ve seen many Marshall cabs resurrected as your viewers suggest. Great addition to the studio.
I've been playing electric guitar for 50 years - not that I improved much or achieved much.
But I encountered Greenbacks very quickly and they do have "the sound"
IMO they are the ideal speaker if you are playing with any kind of grit or distortion.
I readily concede that Greenbacks are not the best for sparkly clean tones because they do have a warm, dirty sound of their own when they are driven.
I used to play through a home-built Marshall pre-amp driven by a Germanium transistor booster into a TRANSISTOR amp into 2x12 Greenbacks.
Guitarists who came up to talk to me at gigs thought it was an obscure valve amp and were amazed to learn it was transistors. (FET's in the pre-amp and transformer-coupled silicon output stage)
I've tried several speakers over the decades and always come back to the Celestion G12's.
I have no idea whether the ones made recently are the same but I for sure believe that the Greenbacks I have from the mid Seventies are the best guitar speaker for Rock guitar - warm but with enough bite.
I use 4x12" cabinets since I started to play guitar in 1993, because they deliver the best and huge sound to my ears. They're big, heavy but unbeatable!
My buddies grey cloth basket weave cab he bought in 78' has 3 sides of the inside signed by Jim Marshall. Pretty cool when we found it.
Heritage greenbacks are great, but can definitely be a bit harsh. With the right setup they do wonderful things in a mix.
Custard Pie heard. That's in my practice routine all the time. Great sounding cab, Rhett.
Just sold one of these greenback loaded Marshall cabs from the 90s. Absolutely phenomenal cab but I already have an oversized 212 loaded with vintage ev12mls and a Friedman straight cab on the way (and of course a be100 dlx to match all in green tolex).
Tie down straps FTW. When clamping a box (especially one already half-together), you can use a tie-down strap to compress the joints while the glue cures. They have tons of other uses besides, especially for musicians.
@MarkKiddGuitar or just glue the screws in like they should have been in the first place
@@Alfred_-vp9ys "For The Win", usually...
Sounds great! Nice addition to the stable!
6:51 We'd HAPPILY do a music video in there, that is such a vibe 🤩 Mad sounds too btw!! 🤘
A lot of people seem to miss the impact different speakers and cabs have on your tone - I'm sure I've done it too, but there is something magical about having a 4x12 behind you.
Greenbacks' bless! Yeah man. I love your channel. I wish you a lot of fun with the studio build.
Enjoy the travel not the goal!
Loved the blessing of the basement studio!!
Siiiiiick! That got me psyched! Thanks for always taking us on your musical journeys!!
I had the same thing happen to a JMI Amps AC30. I glued it back together and installed cleats in the corners. I used camps to tighten everything back together. I would not use the L brackets. I used to gig that exact same rig you have. Riteous.
That smile after your first time playing that cab said everything. Happy new gear day!
Nice cab and a great deal too. Sounds awesome! I used to have a 4 x 12 slant and a 100 watt Marshall head in the 80's. I cranked it up in my basement bar room and blew some glasses off of the bar. It sounded and felt so awesome! I don't want to go into why I don't have it anymore it still hurts.😢 Congrats Rhett! I can't wait to see the completed studio.
Sounds Killer! The job you did should be fine for studio use. I used to restore these things and build other cabs and amps for a living. If you ever want tips on how to bring this thing back without brackets, gimme a shout.
Rhett, I think you should have spread the broken joints apart and put glue into them. Clamped the cab anyway possible even if you laid it on its side and put weight on it. I don't think the metal "L" brackets were the answer. The screws can possibly back out with vibration. Fantastic cabinet though. Marshall cabs are amazing especially the one you bought. Great purchase my man.
I’m building an oversized Marshall 2x12 clone right now, it looks like a slightly smaller 4x12 straight Marshall cab. Just got the vintage 30 and neo cream back, and the teal tolex. Can’t wait to finish building it. Love Marshall cabs .
Nice repair to bring the cabinet back to life. It sounds great! If the L brackets ultimately aren't strong enough, some perforated angle sections in those corners will strengthen it up.
Man, there is nothing like pushing air with a 412 cab. I got my first 412 last year, an Orange PPC412 and it’s one of my very favorite pieces of gear. That Marshall cab is DOPE.
Touring the northwest back in 2006, my Marshall 4x12 flew off the top of the roof rack, it landed on the highway at 60mph. Luckily it didn’t hit anybody. We picked it up and threw it back on the roof rack, secured it and that night I gigged with that cab. It sounded better. Once back home I checked it and the baffle was cracked in half. The cab was just scratched and one V30 was gone, tored apart.
Oh shit what a great first time out for that cabinet. Good luck and I wish you many hours of good music with it. You are definitely deserving of such a uniquely plucked artifact.
Tip for gluing large box-like things: wrap them in bungee cords. Applies pressure just like a clamp, cheap and easy to find.
wood glue and a corner clamp. wipe off excess glue inside and out. once dried, cut some pieces of wood to length of the inside of the cab and screw them in to reinforce the sides. Paint the outside black to cover up imperfections and you're good to go.
Looking forward to the studio build series.
Also, glad that you took the time to talk about the torque clutch on the drill so that people don’t start sinking hardware 3 inches into the back of their cabinets.
I picked up a older oversized Carvin 4x12 for $125. I got it and looked inside and it had 4 EVM12Ls in it which are some of my favorite speakers and that was about a grands worth of them. I put them in a 2x12 and a couple of matching 1x12s. The EVs were just too heavy in a already heavy 4x12 so I put lighter speakers in it. I’ve thought about putting Neo creambacks in the 412 eventually to lighten it up.
The smile on your face after you played said it all. I liked it from the first notes.
I concur with the notes on working glue into the broken joints. The brackets will get you by for a bit, but there's going to be leakage. The sound won't be as tight as it could be. But then, that may not be such a bad thing.... reference "The smile." Borrow an identical 4x12 if you can and compare and go with your gut.
Looking forward to seeing your studio build series. Don't wait too long to set up the bar and beer fridge down there. ;)
Awesome deal!!!
If it's not too late, you should have go tankless waterheater. More room!!!