My suggestion for the oil filter is to use the thicker aluminum foil. You can form it into the shape needed until the little spout under the filter. Oil will pour out and you just have a container ready for it. Keeps everything much cleaner. And Hi-Flo makes the filter for K&N, which have the little nut on the end to make getting it off easier. It’s a couple bucks cheaper and higher quality than the OEM filter.
If you cut an empty gallon of milk in half and then cut the half with the handle, you can actually mold it around the oil filter and boom, you got yourself a funnel. It worked perfect for me, not a drop of oil on my bike.
What a mess. Just two tips for you. First buy a proper wrench for oil filter or buy RC filters that you can unscrew with a wrench. Second tip is to avoid spilling of the oil from the oil filter all over the bike. Just lean the bike on the other side (I just grab it for a handlebar or lean on my hip) and keep it like that for 20 seconds or if not strong enough two three times for less time. Thus the oil comes out from the filter into the engine, and after that not one drop of oil will come out from the filter when you unscrew it.
You really enjoying the bike, 600 miles already. Question, have looked into any frame sliders other than Kawasaki’s ? I don’t like the idea the mount with 4 bolts in the casing. Something on the frame will be ideal without drilling the fairings.
Been riding as much as I can just do this oil change and open her up fully for y’all! I havent looked into frame sliders yet, kinda waiting on some options to come out. Same with exhaust and fender deletes, there’s just not many parts yet.
Also, have you checked your coolant? Bought the same bike a week ago, and my overflow tank is completely empty, may want to check it if you haven't already.
Love the vid. Very informative. I just picked up my 2024 yesterday. 🎉 are you gonna put any frame sliders on it? I’m looking for some but can’t find for the 2024.
was it hard staying at 4k that long? im doing mine at 8-10k rpm max, 4k was rediculous please do a pov redline full power vid, and one on how to swap all power modes
Great video! For the LIFE of me I cannot get that oil filter off, even using an oil filter wrench. It just keeps slipping. I am trying not to damage the old oil filter. How did you finally manage to get it off?
Yeah a little confusing with Kawasaki handbook with the 3.8 / 3.3 amount of oil. My second oil change on my ZX6R. I went with the 3.3 amount and noticed the oil level was above the high level on the view finder oil window. To get the oil level between the low and high marks on view window. It needs about 3.1, that's a 6 oz difference in oil. So is that 6 oz difference something to worry about?
Just wondering how that fill worked out. Kawasaki calls for 3.8 quarts of oil. You would need 3 quarts plus 750 ml and not the 300 ml you put in. I know you put some oil into the filter, but it didn't look like more than 30 ml. Did you need to adjust the fill by adding more, or did the 300 ml top it off?
I'm not exactly sure what you mean, I started off with 4qts and i have about 200-250ml left in the 4th bottle sitting in my garage, that's 3.8ish quarts total into the bike
The owners manual gives 2 different volumes of oil. 3.8 quarts, and in the oil change section, 3.3 quarts, and I've seen 3.6 in other places. Specs say it should contain 3.8 quarts, but at 8:35, you pour 300 ml into the empty quart (3 quarts + 300 ml) container and pour that into the engine. That would be 450 ml short of 3.8 quarts so I was curious if this brought you up to the mark. When you say you have 250 ml left over from 4 quarts total, that works out perfectly to 3.8 quarts. Just curious if it's 3.8 or 3.3 to do the oil change with filter.@@DavesMotorCars
@@Kevin-ib4gv 3.3 quarts is if you are only changing the oil. 3.8 quarts is if you are doing a "dry fill" or oil and filter, or any sort of maintenance that completely drains the oil like clutch or stator covers.
Hey thanks for the video. Can I ask have you tried the different ride modes ? Wondering how the rain mode would be for beginner riders if it’s less responsive to throttle etc.
You can set the ride mode to sport which lowers traction control to level 1, though you can fully disable the Kawasaki traction control if you really wanted to. However, on the ABS model I do not think ABS can be disabled (separate from traction control), though I wouldn't disable that anyways, that's a safety if you apply too much brake to the point where you might slip.
@@rejournthe owners manual for these bikes specifically say the first 600 miles are crucial. First like 300 you can’t go over 4K and if you do it’s blinking orange telling you to shift. After the break in period then yeah you gotta let it get up there but not until after those 600
I would read your owners manual and follow accordingly man. The break in period on these bikes are crucial and I’m following mine to a T. I don’t go over 4K rpm at all. It’s a grueling process but worth it
Gonna disagree just on a opinionated topic, given you will never! Be able to get all of the oil out of the bike when you change it same with cars! In my experience I usually do my oil when it’s cold! Therefore all of the oil has come back down from the heads and rests in the pan, you get a close to complete oil Exchange vs Warming the bike up only puts a ass load of oil up in the head of the engine so chances are you are leaving more used oil in the machine then you would if you did it when it’s completely cold or sat the night.
Cold oil coats the inside of the engine and doesn't flow properly leaving more oil inside the engine/oil pan. Shop manual for Kawasaki says warm the engine for 2 to 3 minutes, then let stand for 10 minutes. This allows all the warm oil to drain down. Warm oil changes are always the rule when changing oil.
You have a brand new ZX6R and you're undoing the oil filter with an adjustable wrench? Really? Jeez go and buy the proper tool for about £15 before you f*ck it up completely. And you're putting in fully synthetic after only 600mls ?, man I can't watch any more.
Tell me exactly how i fuck up an un-reusable part? I have an oil filter wrench now that i use after the video was posted. Also just using Kawasaki recommended oil as per thr dealership and owners manual. You have no idea what you’re talking about. I change the oil every 3000 miles, it’s perfectly fine. Try again troll.
My suggestion for the oil filter is to use the thicker aluminum foil. You can form it into the shape needed until the little spout under the filter. Oil will pour out and you just have a container ready for it. Keeps everything much cleaner. And Hi-Flo makes the filter for K&N, which have the little nut on the end to make getting it off easier. It’s a couple bucks cheaper and higher quality than the OEM filter.
Aluminum foil great idea!! Thanks for the info!!
@@DavesMotorCars
Can you do a top speed run on a paddock stand?
I add a wrap around magnetic strip on the oil filter to get out metal particles.
@@HariShankar-dw2pn If i had one haha
Aluminum foil? Not putting that anywhere near my bike. Its gonna scratch something
I just cant get over how amazing that paint scheme is... whoa
Right?!?
Thank you for this cause after getting my first oil change from the dealership 200 bucks for a oil change is ridiculous
Never worth that! Only thing i cant do is tires so i go to the dealer for that
Damn i really like it in that color.. Nice bike man enjoy and be safe
Thank you, you too brother!
The most beautiful motorcycle I've ever seen.... This bike is my dream 😍
If you cut an empty gallon of milk in half and then cut the half with the handle, you can actually mold it around the oil filter and boom, you got yourself a funnel. It worked perfect for me, not a drop of oil on my bike.
Even better lol, thanks!
What a mess. Just two tips for you. First buy a proper wrench for oil filter or buy RC filters that you can unscrew with a wrench. Second tip is to avoid spilling of the oil from the oil filter all over the bike. Just lean the bike on the other side (I just grab it for a handlebar or lean on my hip) and keep it like that for 20 seconds or if not strong enough two three times for less time. Thus the oil comes out from the filter into the engine, and after that not one drop of oil will come out from the filter when you unscrew it.
I have the wrench attachment now, thanks for the tips
The person who decided to place the oil filter there is one sick bastard. Its like they actually want you to get your bike dirty
Right?!? The one on my 400 was in the front with nothing below it. No mess.
one day imma have this bike
Waiting for a Ride Video, Top speed Check ✅
Working on it and also getting an exhaust! I have to borrow a gopro from a buddy!
Does it take the same exhausts as the 23 model?
You really enjoying the bike, 600 miles already.
Question, have looked into any frame sliders other than Kawasaki’s ? I don’t like the idea the mount with 4 bolts in the casing. Something on the frame will be ideal without drilling the fairings.
Been riding as much as I can just do this oil change and open her up fully for y’all!
I havent looked into frame sliders yet, kinda waiting on some options to come out. Same with exhaust and fender deletes, there’s just not many parts yet.
Also, have you checked your coolant? Bought the same bike a week ago, and my overflow tank is completely empty, may want to check it if you haven't already.
Somebody else mentioned this, I'll keep an eye on it. definitely dealer error though probably not running the bike and cycling fluid then refilling
Love the vid. Very informative. I just picked up my 2024 yesterday. 🎉 are you gonna put any frame sliders on it? I’m looking for some but can’t find for the 2024.
Yeah lots planned for the bike, just waiting on parts to come out
I used the factory frame sliders they look great also thinking of getting some more up higher for just piece of mind
OES frame sliders
Look at tst industries. They have sliders for the 24
was it hard staying at 4k that long? im doing mine at 8-10k rpm max, 4k was rediculous please do a pov redline full power vid, and one on how to swap all power modes
Power modes are on my TFT display video! I kept mine around 8k yeah. Borrowing a gopro from a friend, riding video and full exhaust revs coming soon!
Great video! For the LIFE of me I cannot get that oil filter off, even using an oil filter wrench. It just keeps slipping. I am trying not to damage the old oil filter. How did you finally manage to get it off?
Crushed it with some adjustable pliers to get a grip, not easy but it works lol
Yeah a little confusing with Kawasaki handbook with the 3.8 / 3.3 amount of oil. My second oil change on my ZX6R. I went with the 3.3 amount and noticed the oil level was above the high level on the view finder oil window. To get the oil level between the low and high marks on view window. It needs about 3.1, that's a 6 oz difference in oil. So is that 6 oz difference something to worry about?
I wouldnt think it’s a worry as long as you keep checking it
Also clean your chain and check the tension on it and cables clutch
Get’s lubed frequently and tension checked, thanks!
time for an exhaust !
I need to call M4 and make sure the slip on fits first
@DavesMotorCars I think you could use 2023 slip ons. I saw a dude put a Lv 10 on his
I use a boa constrictor to loosen oil filter.
What torque is the drain plug?
Not sure exact torque, after hand tight I just give it a little more, done the same on all bikes and cars for years after an oil change. No issues.
@@DavesMotorCars so much easier to do oil and filter. I have an older gixer, I have to take off fairing on the right side.
I use amsoil full synthetic factory filter and crush washer
Just wondering how that fill worked out. Kawasaki calls for 3.8 quarts of oil. You would need 3 quarts plus 750 ml and not the 300 ml you put in. I know you put some oil into the filter, but it didn't look like more than 30 ml. Did you need to adjust the fill by adding more, or did the 300 ml top it off?
I'm not exactly sure what you mean, I started off with 4qts and i have about 200-250ml left in the 4th bottle sitting in my garage, that's 3.8ish quarts total into the bike
The owners manual gives 2 different volumes of oil. 3.8 quarts, and in the oil change section, 3.3 quarts, and I've seen 3.6 in other places. Specs say it should contain 3.8 quarts, but at 8:35, you pour 300 ml into the empty quart (3 quarts + 300 ml) container and pour that into the engine. That would be 450 ml short of 3.8 quarts so I was curious if this brought you up to the mark. When you say you have 250 ml left over from 4 quarts total, that works out perfectly to 3.8 quarts. Just curious if it's 3.8 or 3.3 to do the oil change with filter.@@DavesMotorCars
@@Kevin-ib4gv 3.3 quarts is if you are only changing the oil. 3.8 quarts is if you are doing a "dry fill" or oil and filter, or any sort of maintenance that completely drains the oil like clutch or stator covers.
2024 zx6r owners manual states 3.0 US quarts when filter is NOT removed.
3.3 US quarts when filter is removed.
Hey thanks for the video. Can I ask have you tried the different ride modes ? Wondering how the rain mode would be for beginner riders if it’s less responsive to throttle etc.
Actually going to look into this today, going to put it in race since the break in is done and see the difference!
Can you do a video on chain adjustment?
I’m sure I will at some point! I have a chain video i made of my ninja 400
For the 2024 zx6r oil filter, is that 16097-0008?
KN-303 or any motorcycle oil filter that ends in 303
do you have the ABS version? If so can you turn off the ABS if wanted for say track days?
Non ABS
You can set the ride mode to sport which lowers traction control to level 1, though you can fully disable the Kawasaki traction control if you really wanted to. However, on the ABS model I do not think ABS can be disabled (separate from traction control), though I wouldn't disable that anyways, that's a safety if you apply too much brake to the point where you might slip.
you have to do a bypass boss. only way ive heard of. not sure how to do it tho
How much is your montly payments or did you pay it cash?
294 with roadrunner with 1500 down non abs
Depends on your interest rate, down payment and other factors
There's no oil-looky-hole on these. Are they not typically on 600+'s?
Yes there is a sight glass on the right side but how the fairing is makes it difficult to check by yourself, you really need two people
Hey quick question I have same one I’m breaking it in on 6th gear can I go over 6500 Rpms, or that only apply while shifting ?
I kept it under 8k on the highway
yeah I go over 6500 but I just don’t red line it, but thats me after 100km, then im all for hard break in
you need to take your bike to the top of the rpms a few times, these bikes are meant to rev high. It will not damage your bike@@misconduct6845
@@rejournthe owners manual for these bikes specifically say the first 600 miles are crucial. First like 300 you can’t go over 4K and if you do it’s blinking orange telling you to shift. After the break in period then yeah you gotta let it get up there but not until after those 600
I would read your owners manual and follow accordingly man. The break in period on these bikes are crucial and I’m following mine to a T. I don’t go over 4K rpm at all. It’s a grueling process but worth it
whats the break in stage for this?
I'm not sure what you mean, it's 600 miles under 6-8k rpm like i stated
First 250 miles stay under 4k RPM,
250-400 Stay under 6k RPM,
400 - 600 Ride Moderately
600 + ride moderately
what oil filter do you need for this bike
I buy the standard Kawi brand filter from kawasaki
Kn-303 or any motorcycle oil filter that ends in 303
@@1lovelucas yeah I'm going with K&N's filtrr
ass filter just go with oem kawi @@dominicmercado6689
I go with the Hi-Flo filter which is HF-303RC. For some reason, K&N have been know for the nut on the filter to break off.
How much you pay for motorcycle?
Msrp 11,299
@@DavesMotorCarsI just bought the 2024 zx6r anniversary edition! I was lucky tho and got it 2 grand under msrp
@@SmokeyTheBear00 top shelf! see ya on the road 💪
@@SmokeyTheBear00 nice let's see it!
Gonna disagree just on a opinionated topic, given you will never! Be able to get all of the oil out of the bike when you change it same with cars! In my experience I usually do my oil when it’s cold! Therefore all of the oil has come back down from the heads and rests in the pan, you get a close to complete oil Exchange vs Warming the bike up only puts a ass load of oil up in the head of the engine so chances are you are leaving more used oil in the machine then you would if you did it when it’s completely cold or sat the night.
Bike was sitting for over an hour
Cold oil coats the inside of the engine and doesn't flow properly leaving more oil inside the engine/oil pan. Shop manual for Kawasaki says warm the engine for 2 to 3 minutes, then let stand for 10 minutes. This allows all the warm oil to drain down. Warm oil changes are always the rule when changing oil.
You have a brand new ZX6R and you're undoing the oil filter with an adjustable wrench? Really? Jeez go and buy the proper tool for about £15 before you f*ck it up completely. And you're putting in fully synthetic after only 600mls ?, man I can't watch any more.
Tell me exactly how i fuck up an un-reusable part? I have an oil filter wrench now that i use after the video was posted. Also just using Kawasaki recommended oil as per thr dealership and owners manual. You have no idea what you’re talking about. I change the oil every 3000 miles, it’s perfectly fine. Try again troll.
Nothings wrong with using “full synthetic” at 600 miles. Ur trippin homes.
If you are servicing a motorcycle, buy a normal tool and manual service
Really does not matter but I do have the tool ordered, will use it next time.
Already 😮
Dealer told me 600 miles under 6k rpm!
@@DavesMotorCars actually I meant that you put 600 mi on already 😂