That would be better, more is better in this case! (You normally did once every two weeks right? Otherwise, my bad). Awesome to be having contact with you by the way, I'm a big fan of you and Zack!
Sure, it's too bad their videos are just regurgitation of whatever you would find with a simple Google search you can do yourself. That's not to say it's all bad, it's just not based on any inherent skill or experience of the creators.
☣droid☣ 1. For me these videos are just fun, I don't even own a bike. 2. Why are you viewing them then? 3. Ari explains things a lot more clear than millions of bike 'experts' on the internet.
I personally prefer organic pads. You have to change your pads more often, but they have the best feel by far and they never squeak. I pulled the centered pads off my Royal Star and installed organics and man what a difference. They are available for bikes of all size and all years, in spite of what is said in the video. My Royal Star was an 850 pound, 2005 motorcycle.
2piece 4piston calipers vs 4piston mono block calipers. moto gp engine prototype inline 4 Crossplane vs v4 0degree crank , 90degree crank trellis frame vs aluminum delta box vyrus m2 honda 600 vs cbr 600rr vs britten v1000 which is the best motorcycle suspension for the future Ls218 vs s1000rr 2017 carbon are electric bikes better now? can you please make these videos.
I nearly always run sintered on the front and organic on the rear, as well as upgrading the brake fluid from 4 to 5.1, and upgrading the lines to braided for a less squishy feel.
4 and 5.1 are both glycol based, the only difference is that 5.1 has a higher temperature before it boils. Therefore 5.1 is a lot more tolerant of abuse. I don't see a reason not to upgrade. Besides I am a heavy #'=@]{#' and so my brakes do take a lot of abuse. :)
lol true, but brake upgrades are not about performance. Three things I never skimp on on any vehicle are brakes, suspension, and tyres. I care less about making a vehicle go than I do about safely stopping it. However, I do laugh to myself when I watch people spend a fortune to lighten their bikes by a few pounds, Lithium battery over lead acid etc.. only to be more than a few pounds over weight themselves.
Performance doesnt just mean: "GO FAST" it could also be: "Braking-Performance". Apart from that your mindset is great, I wish more people would think like you!
I have always loved organic pads for better brake modulation. Less initial bite and smoother deceleration. Sweeter in the corners. Need to swap out more often, but they're cheep and don't tear up your expensive rotors.
worth noting resin/organic pads have fantastic bite from cold, and are a good choice for a commuting bike, where you brake lots but for a small amount of time, so you don't need to worry about keeping heat in them for optimal braking.
It would be great if this video included something like a "Radar chart" for easy understanding of what the different pads weakness/strengths are. Otherwise really informative as always! :)
TheSighBored I found on my ZZR12 sintered eg HH pads damage disks quickly on stock and EBC rotors so considering semi sintered. Hard braking when cold might have contributed to the damage
Great video! it covers stuff that generally we overlook because lack of knowledge. you mentioned your where fond of vintage motorcycles, thats pretty big right now. it would be great if you posted a video on what to look for and what to check for when purchasing a pre 1982 motorcycle. they are very affordable but can easily be a headache if not inspected property. it would help the Hipster starter kit.
I generally run Organics on my two Literbikes; sintered pads seem to wear out my after-market rotors quicker. Yes... you do have to watch Organics as they'll wear a bit faster, but i feel they bite very well in wet or dry. If you're not on the track, these are quite fine.
I'm running metallic right now. I'm interested in extreme cold weather performance. Will ceramic pads offer any improvement in cold weather? From what I hear ceramic pads work better when warmed up.
I've been using EBC motorcycle pads, for over 4 years, for track and street. I recently had an issue with an order for pads, from a 3rd party seller, and called EBC USA to find out if there was a concern. Robert sent replacements, in time for a riding trip. First class performance, and service? I'll be recommending EBC going forward. :)
Hi Ari, Wondering if you guys could do an MC Garage vid on why modern throttles are so darn snatchy / jerky? (Supposedly it's due to ECU maps being optimised for emissions regulations and is not just due to fuel injection). Could you also discuss in the vid whether ECU reflashes are worth it? Cheers from Australia! P.S. Your video on the Great Ocean Road was wonderful. And you were brave to put that much vegemite on a single slice of bread.
Yep, the Ninja 300 is actually this way. As soon as you let off the throttle even a fraction that's it...you're at full engine braking. Rolling on is not the smoothest either, but at least there's some degree of modulation.
Same experience on my Honda CB300F (my first road bike). Very annoying as I grew up on a farm riding ag bikes that had no such snatching problems... Would be good if these emissions regulations could change. It's actually quite dangerous to road newbies like me, especially when dealing with rain and tight turns at intersections in busy cities like Sydney. For me that roll-on jerkiness is the most dangerous feature of it.
Hmm, I've ridden the CB300F. They're not too bad. Definitely not any worse than the Ninja 300. It helps to slip the clutch for a little longer and to just pull in the clutch when coasting to a stop under like 15 mph. That can help reduce the jerkiness a lot. But I totally agree and I think it can makes things more dangerous for newer riders. I wish they'd stop doing it. On the other hand, my Triumph is very aggressive, but buttery smooth haha!
i must have semi-metallic, they are the stock brake pads that came with the bike. people on the forums are saying sintered pads are an upgrade, so that's what i'm doing
awesome video as always. Learning a lot from MC Garage. I was wondering if you could do a video on new engine break in and what's the proper way of doing it. Thanks..
I’m really curious if the brake pads affect the longevity of the discs? I see people often saying better performing brake pads are a recipe to get your disc damaged faster. Any truth in this?
@motorcyclist magazine, can you tell us something about motorcycle brake disc? Why are they so expensive and what makes the difference in price? Also, why they have holes in them? compared to brake disc's from cars?
Thanks for the great video! I'm going to fit sinterd pads on the front brakes of my 1981 cb 900F. some people say that my discs wil wear faster with those pads than with organic pads. I can imagine so, but what are your experience's with sinterd pads on (old) discs when it comes to wear? Thanks again for the video, greetings from Holland.
I want more initial bite for every day leisurely riding on my Yamaha royal star venture. It has unknown front brake pads now when I bought it used. It takes a lot of lever pressure to slow this down. Probably weighs about 750 to 850 pounds. So I want more right now bite at speeds that I am not spraining the speed limit. At the same time, I am a sport bike Rider Ex Road racer.. I just do not use a lot of back brake.. but whatever brake pads are on my Venture, they have too much bite. I squeeze and squeeze the front brake lever to slow down especially if I’m going downhill, so I am forced to use the back break for some extra horsepower, and those back brakes really bite with very little touch on the brake pedal. they bite so hard in the rear that I’m actually a little concerned that I could get into a skid in a panic stop situation ..I’m glad I watched this video about putting organic pads in the rear to have less initial bite..Are used to put air in my rear brake on my TZ 250 for the same reason
also want to mention that, i perform stoppies better with organic pads. i can feel brake pressure much better. its like carburator vs injection. its great except i have to replace pads every 5-6 months(4-5k km). sintered pads can easily go past 2 years (20k km)
Hallo, can you explain the meaning about the size from any kind of master cylinder braking system? Such as 1/2, 11, 14 etc Thank you for your explanations, and I hope you can make a video to explain it
The rear Brembo on my Tiger 850 squeals like hell with the stock sintered pads. Triumph couldn't do anything about it, so I'm resorting to EBC organic pads.
unfortunately theres no aftermarket for my hypermotard so i have the choice of one, Galfer HH Sintered Full-Metallic Ceramic brake pads are the only thing i can even find for it which sucks because ive always enjoyed upgrading parts and changing gears on my bikes
Let me give you an example: On most standard motorcycles roughly 0.8 - 1.2 inches is the norm for chain tension. When your chain is really worn out or kinked out you will not be able to get the chain in spec. One part of the chain might be like extremely tight like a 1/4 inch and the other part of the chain might have 2 inches of slack. Also, if your chain is needing very frequent adjustments to stay in spec then it's probably nearing the end of it's life.
MotoBoy thank you! I got my first ever motorbike few weeks ago (ninja 250) and feel like my chain is not tight enough because the bike tends to jump a bit when on/off the gas. It appears tight when looking at it, but sure enough I need to take more methodical approach.
@czierwo: Could also be the damper inside the rear hub, if they are old and crushed and worn too much, they can allow the sprocket to have too much free play and 'jump' like that.
@Ari: Pros & cons of changing ratios, also of different sprocket & chain types, 'X' & 'O' ring etc, and how they work together as a system, what not to do when changing, upgrading, etc..
Is there any difference in HH racing sintered brake pads besides the ceramic backing plate? Both Galfer and EBC say their HH sintered compound is the same as their race compound but without the ceramic backing. How much does that ceramic backing really help with brake fade?
TRW Lucas was recommended to me by IOM TT road racers I got chatting to. They make quality disks for bikes and cars and a range of pads.. you can check parts using their online parts catalogue.
Ok so it appears that sintered or semi-sintered pads are best for my 2002 Honda Shadow Spirit VT1100C. Still I am uncertain if overall which is best for my cycle. Suggestions or reasons for one or another for this cycle would be appreciated. I am thinking sintered would be closest to or equal to OEM replacement pads.
I bought some semi metallic Galfer pads to go with my rear solid wavey Galfer disc. Advertised they had 3 grooves on the pad side but I’ve been sent ones that don’t have the grooves. Is there a difference? I originally bought my system upgrade to help with temp dissipation and old system was dead
Hi, need your suggestions on sprocket , i own 250cc bike where it has 13T drive and 40T driven, now I want to upgrade it as 14T/15T front, shall I go ahead with? 2. What would you suggest on this. What combination would be great for 250cc bike. Thanks in advance..!
Hi Ari, I have a 2006 KLR 650 with brand new Metzeler Tourance tires. I live in Colorado and would like to make good use of the trails when it warms up again. I am also planning a cross-country trip to Vancouver. Any brake pad recommendations? What are your thoughts on the EBC Carbon X pads? Thanks in advance!
Would the noise you’re referring to be brake squeal? I have some sintered pads on the front wheel of my bike and they squeal like nothing else, I’ve never been able to work out why. This would explain it.
Ari kills it again. Perfect length video for a quick explanation of pad tech.
I followed his advice and I finally grew my own organic brake pads 😂
brake*
What type of fertilizer did you use? I like milorganite myself…it gives you rich black soil and good yield for the pads…lmao
Carbon is organic, he said right. Organic breakpads which basically has some amount of Carbon in them
Great video again! I just wish you guys would upload more often...
That would be better, more is better in this case! (You normally did once every two weeks right? Otherwise, my bad). Awesome to be having contact with you by the way, I'm a big fan of you and Zack!
At least twice a day :)
Sure, it's too bad their videos are just regurgitation of whatever you would find with a simple Google search you can do yourself. That's not to say it's all bad, it's just not based on any inherent skill or experience of the creators.
definitely!!!
☣droid☣ 1. For me these videos are just fun, I don't even own a bike.
2. Why are you viewing them then?
3. Ari explains things a lot more clear than millions of bike 'experts' on the internet.
I personally prefer organic pads. You have to change your pads more often, but they have the best feel by far and they never squeak. I pulled the centered pads off my Royal Star and installed organics and man what a difference. They are available for bikes of all size and all years, in spite of what is said in the video. My Royal Star was an 850 pound, 2005 motorcycle.
as always, I learnt more things in a fast and fun way. thanks guys! greets from Spain, I never miss a MC Garage video :)
Grande maestro✌️✌️
2piece 4piston calipers vs 4piston mono block calipers.
moto gp engine prototype
inline 4 Crossplane vs v4 0degree crank , 90degree crank
trellis frame vs aluminum delta box
vyrus m2 honda 600 vs cbr 600rr vs britten v1000 which is the best motorcycle suspension for the future
Ls218 vs s1000rr 2017 carbon are electric bikes better now?
can you please make these videos.
V4 180 degree crank FTW. 0 degree/360 degree = second best. Best V-angle is about 60-65 degrees.
Definitely the best place on UA-cam to learn about motorcycles.
We need a DVD on all your mc garage with more detail. Plus a full servicing guide! Please make it happen ari
you boys must be reading my mind, was looking at pads and wondered the pros and cons of the variations, thanks
This is easily the best motorcycle channel on UA-cam
I nearly always run sintered on the front and organic on the rear, as well as upgrading the brake fluid from 4 to 5.1, and upgrading the lines to braided for a less squishy feel.
going fril 4 to 5.1 isn't always a upgrade.
4 and 5.1 are both glycol based, the only difference is that 5.1 has a higher temperature before it boils. Therefore 5.1 is a lot more tolerant of abuse. I don't see a reason not to upgrade. Besides I am a heavy #'=@]{#' and so my brakes do take a lot of abuse. :)
Biggest upgrade you can make to your bikes performance then is to cut down on your porklife mate, get some exercise lol
lol true, but brake upgrades are not about performance. Three things I never skimp on on any vehicle are brakes, suspension, and tyres. I care less about making a vehicle go than I do about safely stopping it. However, I do laugh to myself when I watch people spend a fortune to lighten their bikes by a few pounds, Lithium battery over lead acid etc.. only to be more than a few pounds over weight themselves.
Performance doesnt just mean: "GO FAST" it could also be: "Braking-Performance". Apart from that your mindset is great, I wish more people would think like you!
I have always loved organic pads for better brake modulation. Less initial bite and smoother deceleration. Sweeter in the corners. Need to swap out more often, but they're cheep and don't tear up your expensive rotors.
Imo they fade so fast they become dangerous. A few hard braking in the Twisties and you are brakeless. Scary as hell
worth noting resin/organic pads have fantastic bite from cold, and are a good choice for a commuting bike, where you brake lots but for a small amount of time, so you don't need to worry about keeping heat in them for optimal braking.
I know it's not popular but i got myself Organic for the first time I LOVE how they feel.
It would be great if this video included something like a "Radar chart" for easy understanding of what the different pads weakness/strengths are. Otherwise really informative as always! :)
So.. Sintered HH is the way to go for a 600cc used for daily fast street riding?
TheSighBored I found on my ZZR12 sintered eg HH pads damage disks quickly on stock and EBC rotors so considering semi sintered. Hard braking when cold might have contributed to the damage
@@martinjames6942 which is why u need to heat it up from bmhard from the start
Hh sintered is like stock or maybe slightly better. Epsa from ebc give more bite and good for street and track day. Go for those.
Thanks Motorcyclist Magazine, another super video! Beacuse being a motorcyclist is more than just watching new bike reviews.
Simple videos but they just have the info that really isn't out there without some heavy googling. Informative stuff!
Great video! it covers stuff that generally we overlook because lack of knowledge. you mentioned your where fond of vintage motorcycles, thats pretty big right now. it would be great if you posted a video on what to look for and what to check for when purchasing a pre 1982 motorcycle. they are very affordable but can easily be a headache if not inspected property. it would help the Hipster starter kit.
what about ceramic?
edit: wait till end
At 3:45
I generally run Organics on my two Literbikes; sintered pads seem to wear out my after-market rotors quicker. Yes... you do have to watch Organics as they'll wear a bit faster, but i feel they bite very well in wet or dry. If you're not on the track, these are quite fine.
I wanna see stopping distances using the 3 types on a single test bike. Please upload.
Straight forward and clear information, mc grage is a graet spot, keep it up.
Always found ebc hh pads absolutely superb on the street, a great product for a reasonable price.
Great 'to the point' video again from you guys. Your stuff is always factual, to the point and no nonsense.
Hey ! That's my bike on the poster behind you ! :)
Interesting video, thanks. Don't often think of the different kinds of pads, I just buy what the dealer has in stock as standard for my RT.
Which ones are hardest on disc wear? Should discs be bead blasted when changing types of pads? Another great video. I love the new magazine format.
Hey Ari, have you done a video about steering dampers yet? Love MC Garage, keep it up!
I'm running metallic right now. I'm interested in extreme cold weather performance. Will ceramic pads offer any improvement in cold weather? From what I hear ceramic pads work better when warmed up.
I've been using EBC motorcycle pads, for over 4 years, for track and street. I recently had an issue with an order for pads, from a 3rd party seller, and called EBC USA to find out if there was a concern. Robert sent replacements, in time for a riding trip. First class performance, and service? I'll be recommending EBC going forward. :)
Hi Ari,
Wondering if you guys could do an MC Garage vid on why modern throttles are so darn snatchy / jerky? (Supposedly it's due to ECU maps being optimised for emissions regulations and is not just due to fuel injection). Could you also discuss in the vid whether ECU reflashes are worth it?
Cheers from Australia!
P.S. Your video on the Great Ocean Road was wonderful. And you were brave to put that much vegemite on a single slice of bread.
Yep, the Ninja 300 is actually this way. As soon as you let off the throttle even a fraction that's it...you're at full engine braking. Rolling on is not the smoothest either, but at least there's some degree of modulation.
Same experience on my Honda CB300F (my first road bike). Very annoying as I grew up on a farm riding ag bikes that had no such snatching problems...
Would be good if these emissions regulations could change. It's actually quite dangerous to road newbies like me, especially when dealing with rain and tight turns at intersections in busy cities like Sydney.
For me that roll-on jerkiness is the most dangerous feature of it.
Hmm, I've ridden the CB300F. They're not too bad. Definitely not any worse than the Ninja 300. It helps to slip the clutch for a little longer and to just pull in the clutch when coasting to a stop under like 15 mph. That can help reduce the jerkiness a lot. But I totally agree and I think it can makes things more dangerous for newer riders. I wish they'd stop doing it. On the other hand, my Triumph is very aggressive, but buttery smooth haha!
My G650GS was really snatch too. Makes you miss the old carbed bikes, but my new Sportster is pretty smooth.
Michael Mason heavier flywheel
i must have semi-metallic, they are the stock brake pads that came with the bike. people on the forums are saying sintered pads are an upgrade, so that's what i'm doing
can you do a video for master cylinder selection, and which master cylinder will work for which bike
Love your work guys, keep these kinda video rolling 👍
awesome video as always. Learning a lot from MC Garage. I was wondering if you could do a video on new engine break in and what's the proper way of doing it. Thanks..
I enjoy all of your quality video's along with the knowledge you have.All well done and helpful,keep up the good work and remember to ride safe.
thanks Ari - I like the idea of organic on rear to soften that response a scooch. Will try.
Perfect timing on this video. I need to do my brake pads soon.
do a video on wave rotors.. thanks MC Garage
Fantastic video. I always enjoy your good communication regarding specs.
Cheers for the video. Suggestion for another video - mono-shock vs dual-shocks.
Man these vids are so good. Very helpful as always.
I've been needing this explanation. Thanks.
Could you please create more episode about rubber brake line and braided brake line? Thank you very much.
Love the depth you talk about. Thanks for the videos!!
Ari could you make a video on sparkplug comparison
I’m really curious if the brake pads affect the longevity of the discs? I see people often saying better performing brake pads are a recipe to get your disc damaged faster. Any truth in this?
Changed my brake pads last month only 🙂
Please make a detailed video on different types of spark plugs
@motorcyclist magazine, can you tell us something about motorcycle brake disc? Why are they so expensive and what makes the difference in price? Also, why they have holes in them? compared to brake disc's from cars?
Hi...would you please explain us the difference between hard break in and soft break in and also which one is preferable..it would be very helpful
Thanks for the great video!
I'm going to fit sinterd pads on the front brakes of my 1981 cb 900F.
some people say that my discs wil wear faster with those pads than with organic pads.
I can imagine so, but what are your experience's with sinterd pads on (old) discs when it comes to wear?
Thanks again for the video, greetings from Holland.
something about 2 strokes? like differences between 2t oils like mineral and synthetic.
or difference between 2t and 4t engine
I want more initial bite for every day leisurely riding on my Yamaha royal star venture. It has unknown front brake pads now when I bought it used. It takes a lot of lever pressure to slow this down. Probably weighs about 750 to 850 pounds. So I want more right now bite at speeds that I am not spraining the speed limit.
At the same time, I am a sport bike Rider Ex Road racer.. I just do not use a lot of back brake.. but whatever brake pads are on my Venture, they have too much bite. I squeeze and squeeze the front brake lever to slow down especially if I’m going downhill, so I am forced to use the back break for some extra horsepower, and those back brakes really bite with very little touch on the brake pedal. they bite so hard in the rear that I’m actually a little concerned that I could get into a skid in a panic stop situation ..I’m glad I watched this video about putting organic pads in the rear to have less initial bite..Are used to put air in my rear brake on my TZ 250 for the same reason
Semi metallics can usually be had for the same price as organics in common sizes, just got a full set uf semi's on my f4I for $18 vs $50 for ebc HH
nice video! Now I know more about those pads I put on the calipers
make a video on brake calipers and difference between single souble and triple pot caliper
Brilliantly explained great video. Well done lads 👌
Another great video as always. I really appreciate you guys!
I wonder : how can someone dislike this video???? I think they are some dysfunctional people 😉
If only this was uploaded yesterday
As always, great video and explanation guys!
how to change the brake pad. plz upload it. it will be very helpful.
please do a video on brake clutch lag and stiffness of brake
also want to mention that, i perform stoppies better with organic pads. i can feel brake pressure much better. its like carburator vs injection. its great except i have to replace pads every 5-6 months(4-5k km). sintered pads can easily go past 2 years (20k km)
initial bite for ebc sintered pad on my ktm rc250 is the best
Hallo, can you explain the meaning about the size from any kind of master cylinder braking system? Such as 1/2, 11, 14 etc
Thank you for your explanations, and I hope you can make a video to explain it
The rear Brembo on my Tiger 850 squeals like hell with the stock sintered pads. Triumph couldn't do anything about it, so I'm resorting to EBC organic pads.
unfortunately theres no aftermarket for my hypermotard so i have the choice of one, Galfer HH Sintered Full-Metallic Ceramic brake pads are the only thing i can even find for it which sucks because ive always enjoyed upgrading parts and changing gears on my bikes
Is there going to be video about types of chains and sprockets?
how can I tell my chain is not tight enough and some insight on when it needs to be replaced...?
Let me give you an example: On most standard motorcycles roughly 0.8 - 1.2 inches is the norm for chain tension. When your chain is really worn out or kinked out you will not be able to get the chain in spec. One part of the chain might be like extremely tight like a 1/4 inch and the other part of the chain might have 2 inches of slack. Also, if your chain is needing very frequent adjustments to stay in spec then it's probably nearing the end of it's life.
MotoBoy thank you! I got my first ever motorbike few weeks ago (ninja 250) and feel like my chain is not tight enough because the bike tends to jump a bit when on/off the gas. It appears tight when looking at it, but sure enough I need to take more methodical approach.
@czierwo: Could also be the damper inside the rear hub, if they are old and crushed and worn too much, they can allow the sprocket to have too much free play and 'jump' like that.
@Ari: Pros & cons of changing ratios, also of different sprocket & chain types, 'X' & 'O' ring etc, and how they work together as a system, what not to do when changing, upgrading, etc..
Great stuff guys! I would like to hear your opinion on automatic chain oilers. Are they worth it?
I love these kinds of videos. Keep it up
Great video and very informative. Thanks!!
Thank you for the clear explanation.
Question - Break pads for ABS and Non-ABS version of same bike will be same or different?
ARI!
another video could be comparison between cast aluminion wheels vs steel laced wheels... or different diameters :D
hi, upgrading from organic pads to sintered pads, do i also need to upgrade to a better disc plate/rotor?
Ari Henning cool, thanks for replying :) and your videos are really interesting and informative, thank you!
Glad I bought semi metallic....🙂 For my z1000
I use carbon fibre. No warm up thanks to its asbestos like structure. Very good as a canyon carver.
love these videos. keep up the good work!
What about carbon pads? Are those just a type of sintered pads?
What would be the brake pads for my Benelli 302 organic or semi organic
My mechanic told me that sinther ar going to wear my break disc more and i should go with organic
Is there any difference in HH racing sintered brake pads besides the ceramic backing plate? Both Galfer and EBC say their HH sintered compound is the same as their race compound but without the ceramic backing. How much does that ceramic backing really help with brake fade?
TRW Lucas was recommended to me by IOM TT road racers I got chatting to. They make quality disks for bikes and cars and a range of pads.. you can check parts using their online parts catalogue.
what about disc wear with all these pads and how often should brake discs be replaced?
why isnt this guy making any more vids on this channel plz bring him back
next vid:traditional vs linked vs abs!!! yes yes yes
I ride Triumph street triple and i want to change my brake pads.
what do you guys prefer semi-metallic or sintered?
Great explanation. Thank you.
Ok so it appears that sintered or semi-sintered pads are best for my 2002 Honda Shadow Spirit VT1100C. Still I am uncertain if overall which is best for my cycle. Suggestions or reasons for one or another for this cycle would be appreciated. I am thinking sintered would be closest to or equal to OEM replacement pads.
I bought some semi metallic Galfer pads to go with my rear solid wavey Galfer disc. Advertised they had 3 grooves on the pad side but I’ve been sent ones that don’t have the grooves. Is there a difference? I originally bought my system upgrade to help with temp dissipation and old system was dead
Do brake pads fit pretty much universally to most bikes or do they need specific fitments per motorbike model
Hi, need your suggestions on sprocket , i own 250cc bike where it has 13T drive and 40T driven, now I want to upgrade it as 14T/15T front, shall I go ahead with?
2. What would you suggest on this. What combination would be great for 250cc bike.
Thanks in advance..!
Great breakdown. Thanks!
ebc are the only brakes I buy. British made so built to last rather than other cheaper brands. Can't put a price on stopping power
How about drum brakes. Are there different pads as well?
Hi Ari, I have a 2006 KLR 650 with brand new Metzeler Tourance tires. I live in Colorado and would like to make good use of the trails when it warms up again. I am also planning a cross-country trip to Vancouver. Any brake pad recommendations? What are your thoughts on the EBC Carbon X pads? Thanks in advance!
Would the noise you’re referring to be brake squeal? I have some sintered pads on the front wheel of my bike and they squeal like nothing else, I’ve never been able to work out why. This would explain it.