My 2010 cobalt was having the exact same issue, and it was getting to the point that I couldn't get a mile away from home without that happening. I even, stupidly, let it happen when I was driving, and tried to restart in a turn lane. It didnt work, and ended up with all of my battery's power getting sucked out! Had to get a tow and a new battery! And of course, was still happening. While this didnt save me from that tow (the battery was dying anyways)... I'm glad I looked after, at least. A zip tie, and some liquid rubber to insulate the exposed metal of the damaged wires, and my old car was back working smoothly! I even did several hours of driving the next day; no issues. Thank you for the video; its tons of help.
God bless you fixit man. This has been happening to my '09 red Chevy Cobalt for about five years. In fact, this is MY car...right down to the color. Rather than spending another $600., I'm going to give this a shot...wish me luck.
Excellent video! Also well narrated by a real adept troubleshooter. I have found that over the many years of troubleshooting electrical systems, many problems can be traced back to poor grounding, either from the factory systems, or chafing and hot wires touching ground points. Good job!
This is exactly the problem on a chevy cobalt 2010 in a garage that I work for ,good dude,thanks and thanks again for saving me time founding the problem(mechanic MO
Wow! Man u saved me so much. Took it to dealer mechanic. I found it so werid that the warning light would just appear out of no where and check engine light would disappear. Did exactly waht u said and it's good to go! Mechanic at dealer either knew of this or didn't but paid a bunch of money to get fixed
thank you! i got a 2006 in 2018 and everything was fine besides the whole engine power problem. took it to the local auto shop and they said that the same parts you looked at where chafing and need replacements! so now i dont have to worry about it again which is good considering i was planning on doing a summer tripwith it! again thanks!
Same problem on my mother's 2009 cobalt. It's a combination of the intertwined wires and that strap on the dip stick. When you twine wire like that and jostle it around, it wraps in and out of each other gradually. A single wrap might cost you a mm or two of wire but through the bundle leading to it, it adds up. Her harness tangled enough to pull tight against that corner thanks to the dip stick clip. If you feel your harness is tight, then massage it outside of the protective cover. It'll relax into a more sensible condition that lets you strap it all the way around the perimeter, plenty of clearance so nothing like that happens again.
This happened to me today in my 2009 Pontiac G5. So glad I found your video! I will be checking my wire harness. A lot of mechanics will try to charge you an arm and leg specially if your a women. But I was raised with all boys and my Dad taught me a lot so if I don’t know what the problem is I will always research it before taking it to a mechanic
This video identified the exact same wire wear issue in my '09 Cobalt. This issue was a real pain because it would only occur while driving and it was hard to reliably reproduce. I checked all three sensors that use this 5-Volt Reference-1 supply (APP, FTP, TAC) while parked and always got a solid 5V. After watching this video, I took a look at the wire harnesses related to these sensors. It turned out that, just like in this video, the sharp edge of the oil filter housing had cut right through the wire harness and even managed to cut through the insulation of my 5-Volt Reference-1 wire (white/black). The housing is grounded so the intermittent contact with this 5V supply was likely triggering the "P0641 Sensor Reference A Circuit/Open" error code, putting the engine in reduced power mode Thank you very much!
Good job , I think I have the same issue . Same code , steelers should fix or replace the whole wiring harness, way to many cobalt with this same issue
I encountered this same issue with my Pontiac G5. But, I already had a bad battery and the reason for the reduced engine power error message I was receiving was as a result of corrosion on both terminals. After cleaning out the corrosion on the battery I was able to able to use the car without jerking and the reduced engine power error.
I had a P2122 error and getting reduced engine power. Mechanic first replaced both solenoids, the error came back. Next throttle body was cleaned. I though ti was out of the woods. Then a week later fuel lines started leaking. Those had to be replaced. 2 days later P2122 came back; low engine power. I checked the areas mentioned in the video myself. I could see by the oil canister it looked just like yours but I could not see if maybe the wires were frayed. I did the best I could it was hard to get into. So I wrapped up the area and pulled it back with a zip tie. Crossing my fingers this is the issue.
*update* nope did not resolve my P2122 error code. it may be the throttle body sensor issue or gas pedal sensor.... Not sure when I should give up on this car
My 2007 chevy cobolt is doing this exact thing but i replaced throttle body and sensor and pedal assembly...was fine for a few days now sqare one again with reduced engine power and check engine light...i turn of car for a min or two start it up and check engine light is off and car runs fine again...cant locate any damaged wires any recommendations where i should look...im getting desperate
I have a problem this morning when I started my car up with the cold weather I had to reduce power I haven't took it out in 3 days because of the cold weather I'm not sure what the issue is?
I will give this a shot. Unfortunately for me, my 08 cobalt will no longer crank. All I get is the one or two clicks before it stops. Already changed battery, sensors and starter.
Wonder if this is what’s going on in my 09 Malibu. It has a few evap leak codes, as well as a sticky fuel guage that doesn’t come back to working until it’s down to a half tank. Gas mileage is still pretty good. 16 gallons gets me a around 415 miles or so. Thoughts? I can’t seem to find a actual evap leak.
Gracias, muchas gracias por el.video. Yo tengo problema similar, al principio no podía acelerar a más de 30 mph ahora puede correr a 65 mph pero al parar y arrancar hay que acelerar y soltar el pedal 3 veces, en la tercera se siente un golpe fuerte en la transmisión. Voy a ver si es el mismo problema y lo puedo solucionar. El dueño anterior le cambió 2 partes y siguió igual. #1 Sensor de la presión del tanque de gasolina.. #2 Purge valve
Señor me puede decir si a arreglado el problema básicamente tengo este problema desde mucho tiempo nadie puede arreglarlo incluso el diler a remplazado 2 veces el trottle body funciona un tiempo y buelve a falla con el codigo del trottle body . E echo lo que dice este video y sigue igual alguna recomendación
My cobalt just decided to take a nap. Couldn't find anything and still not working. Managed to get it to my local mechanic in 40 minutes and it's usually only a 10 minute drive lol.
Not sure. If you are asking why does it not accelerate? it’s because the on board computer will not let you accelerate because it is sensing a problem in one of the sensors
If you can move that wiring harness so it doesn’t rub against any metal it should help or at minimum put electrical tape around the harness where it contacts any metal
After tracing my wiring harness and replacing the throttle body it’s still doing it then I realized it started doing it when I filled the tank …. Cleaned the gas cap and greased the seal on it and now it’s working fine and check engine light is gone
i wonder if this same issue might be applicable to other systems. I've got a variety of evap codes but after all the usual replacements and no obvious damage anywhere, its been a big head scratcher. Hasn't affected the car's driving at all, but it's annoying to constantly see it.
I didn't see the video before change some sensors this works for some time but again I got the same failure, until I looked the harness and confirm the wires damaged, the plastic protection melted and doing a short circuit.
Red. eng.pwr.--worn casing T.You./New prob.07'cobalt auto.shift jumps in gear when cold & RPM nothing,15mins.later shifts fine RPM back ,can u help please
Not sure without looking at wiring diagram. Anytime there is a problem on two separate circuits I check for problems on the ground circuit since different circuits will share grounds
I don’t know much about vehicles so sorry if this question is dumb 😆. So you just coated the wire in JB weld and that fixed it? My car is having the exact same issues
It’s a good question. Moving the wires away from the throttle body is what fixes the problem. Use some zip ties or some kind of tape to pull the wiring harness and prevent it from rubbing. The JB weld will help keep moisture out of the wire to prevent corroding the wire.
This fix prevents the wire from rubbing on the throttle body. The wire will short circuit to the metal. Excellent question. I hope that answers it for you. Zip tie helps prevent wire from rubbing and JB weld keeps moisture out
I got in mind 2010 Chevy Cobalt last night to go pick my wife up from work and as soon as it started the motor started missing not rapidly but it would miss run right Miss so I went ahead and went to pick my wife up had no power at all got it finally made it to her work shut the car off would not start back it would start for like 3 seconds shut right off Crank it again start for 3 seconds shut right off
Im on my 2nd 2000's gm and getting the "engine pwr reduced". Hundreds of thousands of articles about this issue. Time for a recall GM. Ya screwed up big time.
My 2010 cobalt was having the exact same issue, and it was getting to the point that I couldn't get a mile away from home without that happening. I even, stupidly, let it happen when I was driving, and tried to restart in a turn lane. It didnt work, and ended up with all of my battery's power getting sucked out! Had to get a tow and a new battery! And of course, was still happening.
While this didnt save me from that tow (the battery was dying anyways)... I'm glad I looked after, at least. A zip tie, and some liquid rubber to insulate the exposed metal of the damaged wires, and my old car was back working smoothly! I even did several hours of driving the next day; no issues. Thank you for the video; its tons of help.
Really glad to hear it helped you out
I was about to sell my 2010 cobalt because this problem was driving me crazy and I fixed it by not spending a penny. Thank you sir!
God bless you fixit man. This has been happening to my '09 red Chevy Cobalt for about five years. In fact, this is MY car...right down to the color. Rather than spending another $600., I'm going to give this a shot...wish me luck.
Hope it works. Glad to help!
So, You fix it..??
Excellent video! Also well narrated by a real adept troubleshooter. I have found that over the many years of troubleshooting electrical systems, many problems can be traced back to poor grounding, either from the factory systems, or chafing and hot wires touching ground points. Good job!
Thank you for the kind words.
Thank you, partner, I started to replace parts, then I saw your video & you were dead on thanks again.
@@cedricacker6280 Glad it helped
Put a new throttle body on mine yesterday worked great got in this morning and back to square 1
This is exactly the problem on a chevy cobalt 2010 in a garage that I work for ,good dude,thanks and thanks again for saving me time founding the problem(mechanic MO
So glad to help
Wow! Man u saved me so much. Took it to dealer mechanic. I found it so werid that the warning light would just appear out of no where and check engine light would disappear. Did exactly waht u said and it's good to go! Mechanic at dealer either knew of this or didn't but paid a bunch of money to get fixed
Glad it helped you out
thank you! i got a 2006 in 2018 and everything was fine besides the whole engine power problem. took it to the local auto shop and they said that the same parts you looked at where chafing and need replacements! so now i dont have to worry about it again which is good considering i was planning on doing a summer tripwith it! again thanks!
I haven’t had any problems since that fix which was several years ago. Glad you found the problem and should be good to go!
Same problem on my mother's 2009 cobalt. It's a combination of the intertwined wires and that strap on the dip stick. When you twine wire like that and jostle it around, it wraps in and out of each other gradually. A single wrap might cost you a mm or two of wire but through the bundle leading to it, it adds up. Her harness tangled enough to pull tight against that corner thanks to the dip stick clip. If you feel your harness is tight, then massage it outside of the protective cover. It'll relax into a more sensible condition that lets you strap it all the way around the perimeter, plenty of clearance so nothing like that happens again.
This happened to me today in my 2009 Pontiac G5. So glad I found your video! I will be checking my wire harness. A lot of mechanics will try to charge you an arm and leg specially if your a women. But I was raised with all boys and my Dad taught me a lot so if I don’t know what the problem is I will always research it before taking it to a mechanic
Hope it will help. It is an easy fix if that is the problem. Thank you for the comment
Mine was derating too. Wires are worn in the same spot! Thank you!!!
Glad to help
Thank you so much for helping us, saved us a penny and time.
Really glad to help. God bless
Thanks a lot this really just save me a lot of cash. I did exactly what you said and the problem was gone
Outstanding! Glad to share and help others
My 07 cobalt is doing this now I'm gonna check it out tomorrow
This video identified the exact same wire wear issue in my '09 Cobalt.
This issue was a real pain because it would only occur while driving and it was hard to reliably reproduce. I checked all three sensors that use this 5-Volt Reference-1 supply (APP, FTP, TAC) while parked and always got a solid 5V.
After watching this video, I took a look at the wire harnesses related to these sensors. It turned out that, just like in this video, the sharp edge of the oil filter housing had cut right through the wire harness and even managed to cut through the insulation of my 5-Volt Reference-1 wire (white/black). The housing is grounded so the intermittent contact with this 5V supply was likely triggering the "P0641 Sensor Reference A Circuit/Open" error code, putting the engine in reduced power mode
Thank you very much!
found my wire wore through in the same spot. never would have found that. thks
Dwight Phillips glad it helped. Thanks for the response
Exactly as soon as I did what he did, the problem was gone
Thank you for spending the time to let me know. Instant fix.
@@fixitman8028 à
thanks a lot for posting this video. my wife's cobalt has been doing this on and off for about three months. this helped me a lot. thank you
JOHN MORGAN Glad it helped!
I've been chasing this problem for months in my little red Cobalt. Same wear in the same spot. :)
Thank you
Same message went on my 2006 Chevy cobalt. It’s to late to check that particular spot tonight but will check tm. Thanks for info in advance
Hope it helps
Exact same issue thank you so much for the wisdom
Glad to help
I hope this works for my car but even if it does I’m subscribing to your channel just for the hope!
Thank hoss, helped me find a customers issue
Glad it helped
Yuup exact spot saved me like 3 hours.
Good job , I think I have the same issue . Same code , steelers should fix or replace the whole wiring harness, way to many cobalt with this same issue
Thank you!!!!!! Solved the problem for me!!!!
Glad to help
I encountered this same issue with my Pontiac G5. But, I already had a bad battery and the reason for the reduced engine power error message I was receiving was as a result of corrosion on both terminals. After cleaning out the corrosion on the battery I was able to able to use the car without jerking and the reduced engine power error.
Thanks for posting this it was my problem to
Thank you for this video this helped and save me a lot
Glad it helped.
I had a P2122 error and getting reduced engine power. Mechanic first replaced both solenoids, the error came back. Next throttle body was cleaned. I though ti was out of the woods. Then a week later fuel lines started leaking. Those had to be replaced. 2 days later P2122 came back; low engine power. I checked the areas mentioned in the video myself. I could see by the oil canister it looked just like yours but I could not see if maybe the wires were frayed. I did the best I could it was hard to get into. So I wrapped up the area and pulled it back with a zip tie. Crossing my fingers this is the issue.
*update* nope did not resolve my P2122 error code. it may be the throttle body sensor issue or gas pedal sensor.... Not sure when I should give up on this car
Thank you, for all that you do here.
Así me está haciendo mi cobalt rojo 2010 lo iré a revisar creo q es ese cable muchas gracias amigo
Wish i came across this before a MAS sensor and cold air intake replacement. 🙃
Me just replacing my entire throttle body 😩😩😩😭
My 2007 chevy cobolt is doing this exact thing but i replaced throttle body and sensor and pedal assembly...was fine for a few days now sqare one again with reduced engine power and check engine light...i turn of car for a min or two start it up and check engine light is off and car runs fine again...cant locate any damaged wires any recommendations where i should look...im getting desperate
I have a problem this morning when I started my car up with the cold weather I had to reduce power I haven't took it out in 3 days because of the cold weather I'm not sure what the issue is?
I will give this a shot. Unfortunately for me, my 08 cobalt will no longer crank. All I get is the one or two clicks before it stops. Already changed battery, sensors and starter.
Wow, good find. I wonder how often chafing through a wire coating like this happens and nobody ever finds it.
I get a good bit of comments on this video so it seems like it occurs quite a bit on these cobalts. Thanks for commenting
Wonder if this is what’s going on in my 09 Malibu. It has a few evap leak codes, as well as a sticky fuel guage that doesn’t come back to working until it’s down to a half tank. Gas mileage is still pretty good. 16 gallons gets me a around 415 miles or so. Thoughts? I can’t seem to find a actual evap leak.
I don’t think they are related. EVAP leaks are tough to find. Also sounds like you have a bad sending unit in your fuel tank.
Thank you. This was helpfull❤
Gracias, muchas gracias por el.video.
Yo tengo problema similar, al principio no podía acelerar a más de 30 mph ahora puede correr a 65 mph pero al parar y arrancar hay que acelerar y soltar el pedal 3 veces, en la tercera se siente un golpe fuerte en la transmisión.
Voy a ver si es el mismo problema y lo puedo solucionar.
El dueño anterior le cambió 2 partes y siguió igual.
#1 Sensor de la presión del tanque de gasolina..
#2 Purge valve
Señor me puede decir si a arreglado el problema básicamente tengo este problema desde mucho tiempo nadie puede arreglarlo incluso el diler a remplazado 2 veces el trottle body funciona un tiempo y buelve a falla con el codigo del trottle body . E echo lo que dice este video y sigue igual alguna recomendación
My cobalt just decided to take a nap. Couldn't find anything and still not working. Managed to get it to my local mechanic in 40 minutes and it's usually only a 10 minute drive lol.
Hope all goes well. did they figure it out?
Same orange cut has a small cut on it on my care can it just be spliced to new wire
Not sure without seeing it. Bottom line is protecting the exposed wire and this will prevent intermittent shorts. Hope that helps
Not sure. If you are asking why does it not accelerate? it’s because the on board computer will not let you accelerate because it is sensing a problem in one of the sensors
I'm broke down outside of Chicago with the exact same problem I'll let you know if it works for me
Hope it’s a quick fix. Good luck and please let me know
@@fixitman8028 ii fixed it for about 300 miles now it's doing it agian
Your right though it's the wiring mine is pretty bad all back by the trans plug in the back drivers side gotta let it cool down and inspect it better
If you can move that wiring harness so it doesn’t rub against any metal it should help or at minimum put electrical tape around the harness where it contacts any metal
Wiring harness is rubbing somewhere. Try wrapping electcal tape around harness anywhere harness contacts metal
After tracing my wiring harness and replacing the throttle body it’s still doing it then I realized it started doing it when I filled the tank …. Cleaned the gas cap and greased the seal on it and now it’s working fine and check engine light is gone
Thank you infinity sir
Glad to help
Thank you for this video
Glad to help
Mu mom3s been having the same problem with her car. Gonna drive to her house tomorrow and check it for her im hoping it is this simple. Thanks
i wonder if this same issue might be applicable to other systems. I've got a variety of evap codes but after all the usual replacements and no obvious damage anywhere, its been a big head scratcher. Hasn't affected the car's driving at all, but it's annoying to constantly see it.
Probably not related to an evap code. Those evap leaks are tough to find unless you have a smoke machine. Hope it works out
Throtle body clean or replace
Thank you
Your welcome
I didn't see the video before change some sensors this works for some time but again I got the same failure, until I looked the harness and confirm the wires damaged, the plastic protection melted and doing a short circuit.
Glad the video helped
Red. eng.pwr.--worn casing T.You./New prob.07'cobalt auto.shift jumps in gear when cold & RPM nothing,15mins.later shifts fine RPM back ,can u help please
Not sure without looking at wiring diagram. Anytime there is a problem on two separate circuits I check for problems on the ground circuit since different circuits will share grounds
I don’t know much about vehicles so sorry if this question is dumb 😆. So you just coated the wire in JB weld and that fixed it? My car is having the exact same issues
It’s a good question. Moving the wires away from the throttle body is what fixes the problem. Use some zip ties or some kind of tape to pull the wiring harness and prevent it from rubbing. The JB weld will help keep moisture out of the wire to prevent corroding the wire.
This fix prevents the wire from rubbing on the throttle body. The wire will short circuit to the metal. Excellent question. I hope that answers it for you. Zip tie helps prevent wire from rubbing and JB weld keeps moisture out
Thank you for the tip 😎👍
How to repair cut wires? Do i need to remove the whole wire harness?
No just move it away from rubbing against the throttle body
so which wire is the actual one that is the culprit i have 2 orange wires and a orange wire with a black line?
Great video! Thanks!
Glad to help
you are soooooooooo great!
Thanks
I got in mind 2010 Chevy Cobalt last night to go pick my wife up from work and as soon as it started the motor started missing not rapidly but it would miss run right Miss so I went ahead and went to pick my wife up had no power at all got it finally made it to her work shut the car off would not start back it would start for like 3 seconds shut right off Crank it again start for 3 seconds shut right off
My cobalt does this but before it does, it says to service traction. Will have to check this.
Yes. Good luck. Hope it goes well
is this the same for a 09?
@@adalynkocher yes
Why do I get a low traction ?
My 06 cobalt do the same thing now I don't know what to do
Great video! Huge savings! Nice fix #WorldsOkayestFarmer
Thanks for feedback!
@@fixitman8028 thanks was my problem to never would of found it without this video
I'm Canadian and only could do 40kmh
Im on my 2nd 2000's gm and getting the "engine pwr reduced". Hundreds of thousands of articles about this issue. Time for a recall GM. Ya screwed up big time.
Wow my car idle bad then the rpm hand stops working