Now you can say with Pride, that this is one of the legendary old Videos that you only find when searching for a specific problem with a specific solution 👍
Had a slacky chain. I changed the chain, the chainwheels, changed the wires, changed the casette, re-indexed the gears. Still slack in the chain until I realized the fault lied with the rear-derailleur. I followed this video,, and you saved me from a week's worth of issues and troubleshooting. Thank you. SO - VERY - MUCH
105 deraileur is very good and reliable. You got a good deal after fix the problem. Thanks for your video and saving the world and encourage recycle products, cut down wastage and sustainability.
Deftly done RJ. This is one of your smoothest deliveries to date. Your camera work was spot-on and left no detail to chance. You're establishing quite a useful library of tutorials my friend. Keep up the good work!
My road bike's rear derailleur got sick over the winter and the jockey pivot seized up. Works like a charm after taking it apart and cleaning it up. Thanks for the vid!
Very helpful. This gives me some ideas for adjusting a Suntour GPX rear derailleur on my Centurion Ironman. Something in the mechanism causes too much drivetrain drag, especially in the big chainring. I've suspected it's the lower knuckle spring tension. There's much more tension than necessary to minimize chain sag. If I relieve the tension very slightly by hand the drivetrain runs smoothly without excessive tension and drag. But I'll need to modify the derailleur to fix that problem. Most RD's I've disassembled have two settings (usually holes) to adjust spring tension. The GPX RD had a pilot hole for a second retention point for the knuckle spring leg, but it wasn't drilled through. I finished that with a moto tool. But it hadn't occurred to me to twist the post on the cage plate to be sure the retention fits correctly between the cage plate and p-knuckle housing body.
Interesting. Some would say the derailleur had a serious mechanical issue. But this guy rescued it. Nice to know now how changing gear back down works. For me it’s all in the lever. These bikes are built strong
This happened to my rear derailleur the other day. Was gonna walk to the LBS to pick up a new one if I couldn't figure out a fix, but looks like I don't need to any more. (At least, assuming the spring isn't slowly dying: my derailleur is 11 years old, so it's a possibility.) Thanks for the save! (Worth a note, for anyone who has an RD-5701 instead of this exact model: the position of the holes to align to fit the narrow end of the spring into are subtly different. In my derailleur, at the 5:51 mark, the two pass-through holes are below the pin that slots into the P-tension spring. If memory serves--I'm not going to disassemble again to check!--I got desirable results slotting the spring end into the hole on the right. So instead of being at the 01:00 position as in this video, it was more at ~05:00 or so.)
Another good video! Didn't realise that the 2mm screw was to release the spring and cage. Might have to overhaul my one now. Also interesting was the directions on the tension pulley - got me curious about mine also! Good on you for getting a bargain!
Mine doesn't have a screw at the back so not sure what was holding mine on. It's damaged now and seems to be something missing maybe a surclip for my version?
cant thank you enough! My rear mech which is exactly the same in the video developed the same problem. thanks to your wonderful video i managed to fix it. great work and thanks again.
Amazingly simple but complicated, machined and engineered in a way. I just started a bike hobby again . I used to wrench on bikes as a kid and painted a frame once. Finding it satisfying picking up vintage Treks that were well made and refurbishing. You sure have some knowledge..!
Now I know this is a longshot as this video is really old but: My grandfather left me his old bike, which I totally love! It is equipped with the Shimano Santé series. The RD sadly broke a few days ago. It is the RD-5001 LS. I think it is repairable! I only need the p-tension spring (part no. 529 2900-1). I think it is the same as the RD-5000 one´s. Do you, by any chance, have any of these parts? Best regards, Max
Thank you soooo much for this, I fixed my 9 speed Saint rear d with your instructions. Its much easier with the one I had because probably of the refined design features. Not as many small bits to manage. I wouldn't want to change the whole drivetrain because just "one" spring has jumped off its catch. All is well again.
Nice video!!! (Like all your videos). Thanks so much. Can you please tell me in which hole I have to put the spring in order to reduce the derailleur's tension?
after this video i will take an close up look on my rear derailleur too...just to see if im able to add some tension to the cage..so the derailleur dont hit downside of the chainstay every time i drop a bit or ride over some bumps nice work RJ... keep it up !!
I think it's a higher tension, because he insterted pin in the top right hole and then rotated the cage counter clockwise. The distance spring pins are rotating relative to each other is bigger than it would be if he used a left hole, so the tension is higher. Why did he choose higher tension? I read today on the internet that manufacturers set standard lower tension.
great video RJ! I've got a super temperamental 10s shimano 105 5701 RD. i think i've indexed it properly, it shifts up&dn beautifully the first half of the casette, but is crap in 2nd half. If i adjust the barrel adjuster to make the 2nd half beautiful, the 1st half goes to crap. its driving me nuts, and was wondering if what you did in this vid would fix it?
I put dry lube in my jocky pulleys, but another article I read said put in dry in summer and wet in winter. The pulleys are plastic and I believe self lubricating, so a dry lube would be okay, but a wet lube would mean you would need to frequently remove the pulleys to clean them. I think just stick to dry.
does it matter which hole it goes in? is it just for the pulley cage tension or does it have some other purpose? i'm reassembling a 7800 dura ace rear derailleur and i put the spring in the one that gives less tension since the spring is still pretty strong.
On some dérailleur the stop pin is unscrewdable , so just unscrew it , hold tension on the cage , position them to be inline with the taping hole and rescrew the pin that it can now lean on the stopper . Doable only if ,of course, the 2 ends of the tension spring are still in their holes.
Looks like I have the exact same problem with a 105 derailleur. Tomorrow I'll do the repair and follow your step by step directions. Two questions for you. When you were do the re-assembly, you put the small end of the spring into the clockwise hole, not the counter clockwise hole on the cage plate. Why did you choose that hole? Second question: Have you since used this 105 derailleur on a bike? If so, how did it work?
I have a question. I am looking at a 105 RD-5701 SS derailleur and I see it's meant for a 10 speed cassette and I understand that I can use it for a 8 speed cassette with a 8 speed shifter (shifter determines indexing), I assume derailleur pull ratio is the same as in for example Acera RD-M360 SGS derailleur. But are the jockey wheels made thinner and the cage is maybe more narrow because it was designed as a 10 speed derailleur? I don't think a 8 speed chain should have problems rubbing against the cage or something but I'm still asking to be sure. Short story: I own a MTB and I must replace a worn out drivetrain but I would make it a 2x8 with a 22-32 crankset and a 8 speed road cassette 13-26, everything on the drivetrain would be "factory 8 speed intended" but I would use a short cage 105 RD-5701 "factory intended" as a 10 speed rear derailleur.
Need your opinion. I picked up an '87 Cannondale SR500 to recondition and then sell. Previous owner had changed the 2 chainring cranks with a 3 chainring set. The Shimano105 rear derailleur is original and has a short cage. I'm anticiapting issues with the rear derailleur short cage handling the 3 chainring set, especially when the chain is on the small chainring and small rear cog. I can do 1 of 2 things - either swap out the rear derailleur cage with another NON-105 Shimano rear derailleur that I have on hand - or - simply replace the derailleur with another good quality model Shimano rear derailleur. If possible, I'd preder to do the cage replacement to keep the Shimano 105 group intact. What's your opion on the best option?? BTW - this video was excellent.
Hi RJ, i just bought a Mongoose ledge 2.1 and in the unloading process it bent the 2 cage pieces on the derailleur and the guide pulley is not lined up with the back one. the spring also came off from the hanger that holds it in place. Do you thin i can still fix it or would it be best to just get a new one?
Just to mention: P-tension spring is opposite to B-tension spring. After of just increasing of P-tension spring pressure using additional hole on similar RD-M761 SGS (Top-Normal 11-34 superlong derailleur), my B-tension spring failed to manage on lowest gear ratios - jockey(tension) pulley came in friction with biggest gears and even b-tension bolt was unable to fix this. So, balance should be kept.
Hi, I’ve bought an Ultegra di2 r8050 unit second hand off eBay and it seems to have this same issue; the seller didn’t make any mention of it at all during the sale! Will thing type of work still cure the problem? I’m going to raise a complaint anyway, but still curious. Thanks for the post, sub made
I have not worked on the DI2 stuff. I am guessing the spring will be similar. Keep in mind, different derailleurs open differently. I have videos showing a few different types.
same thing happened to my shimano "tourney tx" when I removed the rear wheel, the wheel came off freely so I don't see how it got damaged so easily. The unit was new (3 months). The problem with this model (apart from crap quality!) is that it appears to be pressed together, and cannot be taken apart to fix the problem.The coil spring slips out of its retaining hole and re- engages the hole after spinning around.
I had the same thing happen to my derailleur when I changed a flat and I couldn't put the wheel back in. Thanks to your video I have now fixed the derailleur. Is this a common problem with this derailleur?
I have a question about the spring you re-installed. Is it supposed to sit loose inside the housing?, mine seems to snag on the walls so i'm not sure if the spring-pin (the longest end) goes into the pinhole at the bottom as i can't rotate the spring.
+Sam I can't really answer. Might be a simple fix or not. First, make sure it's not the cable. Disconnect the cable and see if it's stuck or just the spring is not working. You just need to dig into it and figure out where the problem is.
RJ Wondering if you knew how to get the pivot arms to dissassemble on sram components. The pins have retaining clips but don't then come out. Is it a vice job?
Mine is different my spring thing goes into the hole but I cannot take the spring out because it does not have a 2mm screw. I think I have the old version. Plz help me rj
Hi! I have a similar issue, but the derailleur won’t pick up the extra chain slack, it is sagging and the derailleur has no tention to it. Please bring help!
I'm gonna assume your chain is not too long. You should probably check your P-tension spring, as that spring should bring the tension. Also possible that your derailleur slipped on the hanger
If the wheel that guides the spring and the long bolt that goes inside the derailer are loose/rotate freely, should I just get a new unit? I tried tightening but it's no use.
@@RJTheBikeGuy @RJ The Bike Guy Thanks for replying. At the 4:00 mark of your tutorial, you use pliers to rotate the "back plate." This is what I am referring to. Both the backplate and the wheel with the notches (you rotate that at 4:20) on the otherside rotate freely on my derailleur; I can rotate both with just my fingers, no pliers needed. I managed to re-establish tension after a few tries but I'm assuming these parts (the backplate and notched wheel) should be tighter, but I was not able to tighten them.
For more bike repair videos hit the subscribe button 🛑 and click the notification bell ► bit.ly/SubRJTheBikeGuy
😭😭😭😭❤Thank you
My shimano tourney 😃
Now you can say with Pride, that this is one of the legendary old Videos that you only find when searching for a specific problem with a specific solution 👍
Had a slacky chain.
I changed the chain, the chainwheels, changed the wires, changed the casette, re-indexed the gears.
Still slack in the chain until I realized the fault lied with the rear-derailleur.
I followed this video,, and you saved me from a week's worth of issues and troubleshooting.
Thank you. SO - VERY - MUCH
This video was 4yrs ago but this help me with problem! I have the exact issue with my Derailleur and I fixed it! Thank you so much!
Please give this guy a medal 🏅
Holy crap. I had exactly this problem and now I've fixed it!! Thanks, RJ.
105 deraileur is very good and reliable. You got a good deal after fix the problem. Thanks for your video and saving the world and encourage recycle products, cut down wastage and sustainability.
Thank you for the help - I couldn't figure it out until I saw your video....great video by the way. ALL THE BEST!
Deftly done RJ. This is one of your smoothest deliveries to date. Your camera work was spot-on and left no detail to chance. You're establishing quite a useful library of tutorials my friend. Keep up the good work!
Old vid, but very helpful. Just fixed the exact 105 derailleur which experienced a slipped spring. Thanks for saving me some $ to buy a new one.
2021, picked up cycling from covid and heard about this man many times, today RJ got my back like a G.
What a hero. This was exactly the issue I had and it totally resolved the issue I had with my derailleur 🤙🏼
My road bike's rear derailleur got sick over the winter and the jockey pivot seized up. Works like a charm after taking it apart and cleaning it up. Thanks for the vid!
Very helpful. This gives me some ideas for adjusting a Suntour GPX rear derailleur on my Centurion Ironman. Something in the mechanism causes too much drivetrain drag, especially in the big chainring. I've suspected it's the lower knuckle spring tension. There's much more tension than necessary to minimize chain sag. If I relieve the tension very slightly by hand the drivetrain runs smoothly without excessive tension and drag. But I'll need to modify the derailleur to fix that problem.
Most RD's I've disassembled have two settings (usually holes) to adjust spring tension. The GPX RD had a pilot hole for a second retention point for the knuckle spring leg, but it wasn't drilled through. I finished that with a moto tool. But it hadn't occurred to me to twist the post on the cage plate to be sure the retention fits correctly between the cage plate and p-knuckle housing body.
Interesting. Some would say the derailleur had a serious mechanical issue. But this guy rescued it. Nice to know now how changing gear back down works. For me it’s all in the lever. These bikes are built strong
Used your video to repair my derailleur! Thank you.
Thank you for this, I couldn't find where to remove the cage, I thought I was missing a bolt from the derailleur.
This happened to my rear derailleur the other day. Was gonna walk to the LBS to pick up a new one if I couldn't figure out a fix, but looks like I don't need to any more. (At least, assuming the spring isn't slowly dying: my derailleur is 11 years old, so it's a possibility.) Thanks for the save!
(Worth a note, for anyone who has an RD-5701 instead of this exact model: the position of the holes to align to fit the narrow end of the spring into are subtly different. In my derailleur, at the 5:51 mark, the two pass-through holes are below the pin that slots into the P-tension spring. If memory serves--I'm not going to disassemble again to check!--I got desirable results slotting the spring end into the hole on the right. So instead of being at the 01:00 position as in this video, it was more at ~05:00 or so.)
Would be cool to see a video on how to strip and clean a rear derailleur :)
RJ, you are my hero!! I finally understand how to reassemble correctly and have tension :-)
And with this my problem disappeared. Thank you! very much!
Another good video! Didn't realise that the 2mm screw was to release the spring and cage. Might have to overhaul my one now. Also interesting was the directions on the tension pulley - got me curious about mine also! Good on you for getting a bargain!
Mine doesn't have a screw at the back so not sure what was holding mine on. It's damaged now and seems to be something missing maybe a surclip for my version?
@@MegaJimbob125 Hello! Do you talking about that @6:57 2mm screw? Did you solve the problem? Me too not sure what was holding mine on.
cant thank you enough! My rear mech which is exactly the same in the video developed the same problem. thanks to your wonderful video i managed to fix it. great work and thanks again.
Exactly what I needed - great tutorial!
Thank you RJ! Now my 6770 will last s little bit longer.
Thanks for sharing this useful maintenance guide... I liked the systematic & easy to follow steps you conducted to complete the job...
Thanks - I bought an XTR Derailleur and slipped the P-Tension spring when I was mounting it - this fixed me up.
Amazingly simple but complicated, machined and engineered in a way. I just started a bike hobby again . I used to wrench on bikes as a kid and painted a frame once. Finding it satisfying picking up vintage Treks that were well made and refurbishing. You sure have some knowledge..!
Ahh that’s how they come apart ❤
Thanks a million
Saved me buying a new Ultegra derailleur.
Now I know this is a longshot as this video is really old but:
My grandfather left me his old bike, which I totally love! It is equipped with the Shimano Santé series. The RD sadly broke a few days ago. It is the RD-5001 LS. I think it is repairable! I only need the p-tension spring (part no. 529 2900-1). I think it is the same as the RD-5000 one´s. Do you, by any chance, have any of these parts? Best regards,
Max
Thanks! Just looking at a derailleur with similar issues, shows that all that's needed it a little time & some curiosity!
Thank you soooo much for this, I fixed my 9 speed Saint rear d with your instructions. Its much easier with the one I had because probably of the refined design features. Not as many small bits to manage.
I wouldn't want to change the whole drivetrain because just "one" spring has jumped off its catch. All is well again.
thanks you save to buy another 1 derailleur perfect video for amateurs thank you so much
Nice video!!! (Like all your videos). Thanks so much. Can you please tell me in which hole I have to put the spring in order to reduce the derailleur's tension?
Never seen such a very informative useful helpful vdo thanks a ton for sharing such helpful vdos 👍
after this video i will take an close up look on my rear derailleur too...just to see if im able to add some tension to the cage..so the derailleur dont hit downside of the chainstay every time i drop a bit or ride over some bumps
nice work RJ... keep it up !!
Mega Jaxx is
Mine is stuck at the very top spring (at the "B screw") is that spring harder to take off/check ? Because it seems under higher tension.
This is an outstanding video! One question: is the hole you selected for the spring (of the two) the higher or lower tension location?
I think it's a higher tension, because he insterted pin in the top right hole and then rotated the cage counter clockwise. The distance spring pins are rotating relative to each other is bigger than it would be if he used a left hole, so the tension is higher.
Why did he choose higher tension? I read today on the internet that manufacturers set standard lower tension.
Saved me again RJ. A fiddly Job but I got it eventually!
Thank You.
I have the same Problem of what you've show. I hope that I can fix it now.😊
Excellent tutorial, I'm gonna make one. Thanks RJ
Extrêmement good afternoon vidéo excellent beautiful bonne journée courage merci❤🎉
After finishing my exams I can finally say that
TENSION is good
great video RJ! I've got a super temperamental 10s shimano 105 5701 RD. i think i've indexed it properly, it shifts up&dn beautifully the first half of the casette, but is crap in 2nd half. If i adjust the barrel adjuster to make the 2nd half beautiful, the 1st half goes to crap. its driving me nuts, and was wondering if what you did in this vid would fix it?
I put dry lube in my jocky pulleys, but another article I read said put in dry in summer and wet in winter. The pulleys are plastic and I believe self lubricating, so a dry lube would be okay, but a wet lube would mean you would need to frequently remove the pulleys to clean them. I think just stick to dry.
Thanks for the video! Had this problem with my sram NX derailleur and this video really helped!
Keep them coming RJ, a very helpful video and well presented. Thumbs up.
Thanks a lot for your informative and helpful videos.
Do you think i can use Shimano XT spring, to replace the spring of the 105 derailleur that broke up?
Time to do a homemade clutch with my Tourney derailleur!
How though?????
does it matter which hole it goes in? is it just for the pulley cage tension or does it have some other purpose? i'm reassembling a 7800 dura ace rear derailleur and i put the spring in the one that gives less tension since the spring is still pretty strong.
Too little or too much tension may effect shifting.
On some dérailleur the stop pin is unscrewdable , so just unscrew it , hold tension on the cage , position them to be inline with the taping hole and rescrew the pin that it can now lean on the stopper . Doable only if ,of course, the 2 ends of the tension spring are still in their holes.
Looks like I have the exact same problem with a 105 derailleur. Tomorrow I'll do the repair and follow your step by step directions. Two questions for you. When you were do the re-assembly, you put the small end of the spring into the clockwise hole, not the counter clockwise hole on the cage plate. Why did you choose that hole? Second question: Have you since used this 105 derailleur on a bike? If so, how did it work?
Try the other hole if you want. And yes I have used the derailleur.
Very well presented and informative. Thank you.
great video. unfortunately, i only saw this video after i bought a new rear derailleur
thanks very helpful in trying to put it back together
Walllaw.....magical. Sort it out quickly.
Thank you for the help. I actually had one of those almost exactly so this video was perfect. Keep up the awesome work!
Fantastic, well done video! Exactly what I was looking for!
Great video, is there any way you can change the mech hanger chamber spring single handedly?
With one hand? Shrug? Dunno.
I have the same problem. i will try to reper it like in this movie tomorrow. hope will be fine. thanks!!
I have a question. I am looking at a 105 RD-5701 SS derailleur and I see it's meant for a 10 speed cassette and I understand that I can use it for a 8 speed cassette with a 8 speed shifter (shifter determines indexing), I assume derailleur pull ratio is the same as in for example Acera RD-M360 SGS derailleur. But are the jockey wheels made thinner and the cage is maybe more narrow because it was designed as a 10 speed derailleur? I don't think a 8 speed chain should have problems rubbing against the cage or something but I'm still asking to be sure.
Short story: I own a MTB and I must replace a worn out drivetrain but I would make it a 2x8 with a 22-32 crankset and a 8 speed road cassette 13-26, everything on the drivetrain would be "factory 8 speed intended" but I would use a short cage 105 RD-5701 "factory intended" as a 10 speed rear derailleur.
Should work fine.
I love this stuff
do these springs ever just lose their strength and not provide enough tension on the chain?
Great video just right complete information. Thanks
Good job Keith. Juhaptergee
Need your opinion. I picked up an '87 Cannondale SR500 to recondition and then sell. Previous owner had changed the 2 chainring cranks with a 3 chainring set. The Shimano105 rear derailleur is original and has a short cage. I'm anticiapting issues with the rear derailleur short cage handling the 3 chainring set, especially when the chain is on the small chainring and small rear cog. I can do 1 of 2 things - either swap out the rear derailleur cage with another NON-105 Shimano rear derailleur that I have on hand - or - simply replace the derailleur with another good quality model Shimano rear derailleur. If possible, I'd preder to do the cage replacement to keep the Shimano 105 group intact. What's your opion on the best option?? BTW - this video was excellent.
Shrug. Up to you. They make 105 long cage RDs.
Hi RJ, i just bought a Mongoose ledge 2.1 and in the unloading process it bent the 2 cage pieces on the derailleur and the guide pulley is not lined up with the back one. the spring also came off from the hanger that holds it in place. Do you thin i can still fix it or would it be best to just get a new one?
If the derailleur is bent, replace it.
Thank you RJ the Best guy
Thank you for your video. I think that may be my problem
Very good
Just to mention: P-tension spring is opposite to B-tension spring. After of just increasing of P-tension spring pressure using additional hole on similar RD-M761 SGS (Top-Normal 11-34 superlong derailleur), my B-tension spring failed to manage on lowest gear ratios - jockey(tension) pulley came in friction with biggest gears and even b-tension bolt was unable to fix this. So, balance should be kept.
Briliant! Thanx .
Great video
Hi, I’ve bought an Ultegra di2 r8050 unit second hand off eBay and it seems to have this same issue; the seller didn’t make any mention of it at all during the sale! Will thing type of work still cure the problem? I’m going to raise a complaint anyway, but still curious. Thanks for the post, sub made
I have not worked on the DI2 stuff. I am guessing the spring will be similar. Keep in mind, different derailleurs open differently. I have videos showing a few different types.
Hello RJ, i have the same model derailleur, but when i reassemble it, it skips before even put the little pin
Is there is a method to fix it?
Thanks.
Spring could be bent. Dunno.
Thanks dude you fixed my problem 😘😘
Its very useful... thank you and more videos please...😍
I am always making more. Thanks.
what is that tool called the one that you used to turn the screws out
same thing happened to my shimano "tourney tx" when I removed the rear wheel, the wheel came off freely so I don't see how it got damaged so easily. The unit was new (3 months). The problem with this model (apart from crap quality!) is that it appears to be pressed together, and cannot be taken apart to fix the problem.The coil spring slips out of its retaining hole and re- engages the hole after spinning around.
Thank you very much
Really Helpful !
I had the same thing happen to my derailleur when I changed a flat and I couldn't put the wheel back in. Thanks to your video I have now fixed the derailleur. Is this a common problem with this derailleur?
+MVV I have only seen this one, and I bought it on ebay like this, so I got a good deal.
I have a question about the spring you re-installed.
Is it supposed to sit loose inside the housing?, mine seems to snag on the walls so i'm not sure if the spring-pin (the longest end) goes into the pinhole at the bottom as i can't rotate the spring.
Yes, the spring is supposed to hook into the pin hole.
Yes, the spring is supposed to hook into the pin hole.
Thanks for the video!
Missing the screw at 03:04, where can i buy it
I wonder if a stuck/jammed rear derailleur(stuck at 7 and wouldn't shift down) can be fixed that way or it's just toast and need to be replaced.
+Sam I can't really answer. Might be a simple fix or not. First, make sure it's not the cable. Disconnect the cable and see if it's stuck or just the spring is not working. You just need to dig into it and figure out where the problem is.
RJ Wondering if you knew how to get the pivot arms to dissassemble on sram components. The pins have retaining clips but don't then come out. Is it a vice job?
Not off hand.
Very helpful, thank you
Would this cause an inaccurate and skipping shifting or sometimes having a delay?
You would have bigger issues.
ua-cam.com/video/gwBQxhZhKnE/v-deo.html
hey! what do you use to clean up the parts??
Degreaser or mineral spirits.
RJ The Bike Guy how about kerosene? have you tried it? do you recommend it?
Great video......
1:17 "... cage here is ... bent..." Did he fix that? How? I didn't catch that part.
I think I straightened it out of the video. That wasn't really the topic of the video.
Mine is different my spring thing goes into the hole but I cannot take the spring out because it does not have a 2mm screw. I think I have the old version. Plz help me rj
Hello! I don´t have that 6:57 2mm screw. Me too not sure what was holding mine on. Does anyone know or where can I find it?
شكرا جزيلا❤❤❤
I had exactly this problem! Thank you!
Very nice
Hi! I have a similar issue, but the derailleur won’t pick up the extra chain slack, it is sagging and the derailleur has no tention to it. Please bring help!
I'm gonna assume your chain is not too long. You should probably check your P-tension spring, as that spring should bring the tension. Also possible that your derailleur slipped on the hanger
If the wheel that guides the spring and the long bolt that goes inside the derailer are loose/rotate freely, should I just get a new unit? I tried tightening but it's no use.
I don't know what you are talking about. So I can't say.
@@RJTheBikeGuy @RJ The Bike Guy Thanks for replying. At the 4:00 mark of your tutorial, you use pliers to rotate the "back plate." This is what I am referring to. Both the backplate and the wheel with the notches (you rotate that at 4:20) on the otherside rotate freely on my derailleur; I can rotate both with just my fingers, no pliers needed. I managed to re-establish tension after a few tries but I'm assuming these parts (the backplate and notched wheel) should be tighter, but I was not able to tighten them.
@@marcjordan7466 Take it apart. You can either fix it or you can't.