If it was me, I would be lying in bed at night thinking of all the possibilities that could screw up this rebuild and double checking everything for peace of mind, and to keep the trolls from picking holes. You have done the BEST possible rebuild of a bag of spanners I've seen, so there can't any come back on you. Sleep well you have gone the extra mile and then some on this bike.
Looks fabulous back in the frame, fair play you rescued that engine from a pile of broken parts and bodge jobs, good as new now well done Paul not to many could of brought that back to life but you did it.
Changing social attitudes and aspirations were more important in the demise of the motorcycle industry.than any notion that the machines were substandard.,because that is quite simply untrue.The Japanese targeted the poorer segment of society , those who simply couldn't afford cars, and they priced their products accordingly..Survivability was not part of the ethos of early Japanese bikes which is why they almost dont exist today. The time overlap is crucial in understanding the switch away from British motorcycles. When motorcycles became sport orientated rather than travel to work orientated the Japanese benefitted. In the boom period of British motorcyle production the bikes were on a par with any thing else manufactured at that time, but please remember that machinery and tooling have developed enormously in the past 50 years.
hi Paul can we have a drum role please, i'm sure its going to sound like a singer sewing machine, and can i say a dam good job all round take care Paul
I'd just buy a new 3 phase stator and 3 phase rectifier / regulator ( Chinese copies of CBR 600 cost a few quids ), the difference in price between them is negligible. Much more juice on lower revs and no problems with in town riding. As always thanks for your A65 videos. By the way your video shows how low output has an A65 oil pump ( comparing for example to Trident pump ). I do the same but using a drill on a pump with side cover and crank pinion still removed.
hi yes your right on the early a65 pumps they had small gears in them but 1968 bsa came out with a pump with larger gears which was denoted with DD..stamped on the pump body and which also implied double dowels these pump where high delivery, and then in 1970/1972 bsa change again to the very sort after cast iron one's which are even better than the srm pumps today kind regards
@@a65builder67 yes, but even DD pump makes 1/3 of rev per every engine rev and amount of oil delivered is marginal comparing to much bigger and more effective Trident pump. With iron DD pump I used to have my red oil light flickering after spirited ride on a freeway ( 80 - 90 mph ).
@@a65builder67 not really, it's a "floating design", you can connect it either side. I have this combo working on my Trident for 7 years now without any problems. Installed the same on A65 I'm finishing slowly, works like a dream. :)
hi Adam, well i think thats a sure sign of a badly worn timing side bush or a bad pressure light switch or pressure release valve, as on bsa a65 should blow off at about 55/60 psi as where the trident/ or bsa r3 should blow off at about 70/75, on all my bsa a65s i've put oil pressure gauge's on and at idle i'm getting a round 25/30 psi with engine hot and a round 55/60 a 3,000/4,500 rpm, if i was you i'd take the switch off and put a gauge on it for peace of mind the gauge goes straight on were the switch is, but anyway ride safe and have fun with kind regards Adrian.@@adammedyna2365
i used to take the spark plugs out and crank it over with the kick start .till you could see oil returning in the oil tank . but its a personal choice .some of my friends just changed the oil,started it then topped the tank up
I have just been draining the oil hot and then refilling the tank and all seemed well. I have a Trident that wet sumps after sitting awhile and I usually kick it through awhile to get some oil to show on the dip stick and then start it as usual.@@williamgould2855
If it was me, I would be lying in bed at night thinking of all the possibilities that could screw up this rebuild and double checking everything for peace of mind, and to keep the trolls from picking holes.
You have done the BEST possible rebuild of a bag of spanners I've seen, so there can't any come back on you.
Sleep well you have gone the extra mile and then some on this bike.
Thanks Paul for all your videos ... everyone well explained ... it's an education and I ve enjoyed following every part of the rebuild.
Thank you!
Looks fabulous back in the frame, fair play you rescued that engine from a pile of broken parts and bodge jobs, good as new now well done Paul not to many could of brought that back to life but you did it.
Changing social attitudes and aspirations were more important in the demise of the motorcycle industry.than any notion that the machines were substandard.,because that is quite simply untrue.The Japanese targeted the poorer segment of society , those who simply couldn't afford cars, and they priced their products accordingly..Survivability was not part of the ethos of early Japanese bikes which is why they almost dont exist today. The time overlap is crucial in understanding the switch away from British motorcycles. When motorcycles became sport orientated rather than travel to work orientated the Japanese benefitted. In the boom period of British motorcyle production the bikes were on a par with any thing else manufactured at that time, but please remember that machinery and tooling have developed enormously in the past 50 years.
hi Paul can we have a drum role please, i'm sure its going to sound like a singer sewing machine, and can i say a dam good job all round take care Paul
We are all on tenterhooks...Will it/won't it.
Very much looking forward to the initial start up on this build, it's been quite a saga.
Anxiously awaiting the next video!
I'd just buy a new 3 phase stator and 3 phase rectifier / regulator ( Chinese copies of CBR 600 cost a few quids ), the difference in price between them is negligible. Much more juice on lower revs and no problems with in town riding. As always thanks for your A65 videos. By the way your video shows how low output has an A65 oil pump ( comparing for example to Trident pump ). I do the same but using a drill on a pump with side cover and crank pinion still removed.
hi yes your right on the early a65 pumps they had small gears in them but 1968 bsa came out with a pump with larger gears which was denoted with DD..stamped on the pump body and which also implied double dowels these pump where high delivery, and then in 1970/1972 bsa change again to the very sort after cast iron one's which are even better than the srm pumps today kind regards
also don't forget jap bikes are negative earth and brit bikes are mostly if not all are positive earth so reg/ rectifier off a jap bike wont work
@@a65builder67 yes, but even DD pump makes 1/3 of rev per every engine rev and amount of oil delivered is marginal comparing to much bigger and more effective Trident pump. With iron DD pump I used to have my red oil light flickering after spirited ride on a freeway ( 80 - 90 mph ).
@@a65builder67 not really, it's a "floating design", you can connect it either side. I have this combo working on my Trident for 7 years now without any problems. Installed the same on A65 I'm finishing slowly, works like a dream. :)
hi Adam, well i think thats a sure sign of a badly worn timing side bush or a bad pressure light switch or pressure release valve, as on bsa a65 should blow off at about 55/60 psi as where the trident/ or bsa r3 should blow off at about 70/75, on all my bsa a65s i've put oil pressure gauge's on and at idle i'm getting a round 25/30 psi with engine hot and a round 55/60 a 3,000/4,500 rpm, if i was you i'd take the switch off and put a gauge on it for peace of mind the gauge goes straight on were the switch is, but anyway ride safe and have fun with kind regards Adrian.@@adammedyna2365
Very excited!
Getting there Paul, Can't Wait for you to do mine !
Let's hope it runs.
Every faith in you paul, 👍
I am paying attention to the process. This is way better than a manual!! The oil has a nice green color. What brand do you like?
Any good 20/50 mineral oil, for a long time I used Morris's, but lately it seems easier to get Elf.
Looking a whole heap better than where you started from.
Good on the outside, dreadful underneath.
Great advice.
Looks healthy enough. Did you have a look in the sludge trap in the crank when it all was apart?
Of course!
🤨
I knew you would have, but you didn't show us the gunge!!@@paulhenshaw4514
Am certain there will be no clang clang clang noises when you start it up :)
Does these oil pumps need re-priming after a regular oil change?
i used to take the spark plugs out and crank it over with the kick start .till you could see oil returning in the oil tank . but its a personal choice .some of my friends just changed the oil,started it then topped the tank up
The oil pump will stay primed with a regular oil change on these machines.
I have just been draining the oil hot and then refilling the tank and all seemed well. I have a Trident that wet sumps after sitting awhile and I usually kick it through awhile to get some oil to show on the dip stick and then start it as usual.@@williamgould2855
Thank you Paul. Glad i haven't been doing it wrong all these years! Appreciate the confirmation.@@paulhenshaw4514