You are wonderful mike. I have learned so much about my bike from you its unreal. I cant thank you enough for what you do. You are by far my favorite harley guy on the planet. Thanks again brother.
I'm not even a motorcycle owner or fan and I'm watching these videos. I don't even know how to ride one! Good camera work...we can always see how something is done.
I'm glad. Are you sure you have no pressure or are you believing the indicator light? The way to tell if you have circulation is to visibly watch the oil return into the oil tank. I've also seen unnecessary work done because of junk oil gauges.
excellently done! well thought out, researched, laid out, informative with great camera work and audio tutorial of what you're looking at, paying attention to, and what to look out for. Well done
Your videos are great. I feel like you are the professor when you explain "how to". I have been able to do repairs with confidence after seeing how it's done. I have 2 shovelheads so you know I am always working on something. Your videos are far above some of the jacklegs on youtube. Keep it up and thanks for the help. I'll see you on the road.
Love your way of showing these things. Specially your "... feeling really silly here..." (19:49) - well most people don't share that, but it makes it much more trustworthy. And thanks for showing us the fuzzle on the job - that's really helpful.
I love the way you explain every little detail and I think of a dear old friend that has passed away Gary Woodford and he was a patient man like you and you remind me of him. You have no idea how much you have helped all of the new guys. I have done this for 52 years and I have learned many things from you to my friend. And I am with you on the fact that the hardest part of the oil pump is the key and clip in the cam chest. I have a little tool for that outside clip but I have fat fingers lol. MLLH&R
Excellent assembly job especially with all your little tips. Keep up the great videos Mike. I really look forward to them. I just called my son, and he is going to watch this later on today. Thank You.
Thank you mike for all your videos, I have learned to be a pretty good wrench because of your instruction. Top shelf all the way my friend. Keep them coming and I'll be leading people to your channel as I have done for years now.
Thanks for this video. Putting back together an oil pump from a 1974 FL. Parts manual exploded view shows the oil pump relief valve spring going in first with the piston on top.. Service manual shows the piston going in first with the spring on top.Your video shows putting the piston in first with the hole on top and the spring on top going into the hole. This was the only place I could find that info..Thank You Sure wouldn't want to screw this up.
Damn, I'm learning so much from these videos. Planning to get me a Shovelhead for my 35th birthday this year, so I'm planning ahead. This guy is like the Bob Ross of mechanics, and I mean that in a good way. :D Easy for someone who doesn't speak English as their first like me to follow the pace of him explaning things.
@@pacificmike9501 That"s funny, Bob Ross of mechanics. I"ve been thinking that for a long time. Just not said it. Whenever I run into a problem with my shovel, I always refer to Pacific Mike, the Bob ross of Mechanics! There I said it! Hey thanks for being there for me Mike
Mike I can't thank you enough for your videos. After an oil pump failure I had to rebuild my 77 FXE and they were super helpful. You are making archival quality material keep up the great work. If you could do a video on oil leaks that would be appreciated.
I like your videos , I am presently restoring 73 Super Glide, your information helps me greatly. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with everyone. Melman !!
Also bought a 10 pack of that outer small c clip that shot off into no mans' land, lol. Used a small screwdriver to get it over the end of the shaft. Your video top shelf for us newbees.
Hi Mike just wanted to let you know that I really appreciate you brother , thanks for all the great shovelhead videos and i look forward to seeing more i have 5 bikes all shovels , thanks again brother, see you out on the road lol Joe from Illinois
I subscribed just the other day, thanks for sharing your knowledge Pacific Mike! I've been thinking about buying an old shovel to rebuild myself. I think I may be able to with your video library!
@@pacificmike9501 but at the same time this is the heart of the machine. That brings a lifeblood to every internal part. Except for that pesky front rocker arm.. what's your fix on that mike?
Good tutorial Mike. I changed the gaskets and springs in the oil pump on my Shovelhead, in the Philippines. No cell phones then, used the Harley Davidson Service manual.
Great video. I've tried a lot of different ways to seal oil pump gaskets, currently have Hylomar on them, white litho grease seems like a great idea. On my kit the outer snap ring had no holes for a tool but it when on pretty easy working it around the groove with a pick. I would check to make sure there is no interference in the small recess of the outer cover with the larger snap ring.
Dear Mike: There is a very old sealing compound called "Welseal", you may have heard of it? This compound sealer comes in a tube and lasts for ever. It was first used on old steam railway engines, many moons ago and has proved to be excellent for classic motorcycles over the years. Opening the tube, you will notice it has a low viscosity. Once opened it needs to be stood upright as it will run out of the tube all over the place. Now this is why its "SO good"! Once the faces are clean and dry, take a dribble on your finger which has a foreboding brownish colour. When you smear a thin layer with your fingertip onto the work peace, you'll know the correct amount because it will turn yellow on the work. This stuff is similar to the compounds use in factory made gaskets of all types. Very sticky to the touch, brown too thick, yellow just right. I know you will love it, great for holding gaskets in place and exultant for putting crank cases together.
Sounds great. Will the excess plug anything? Will it mix with oil? This is why I use white lithium on oil pumps. I gotta do more research. Again, sounds good and Thank You.
@@pacificmike9501 Yes; I know what you mean, but this stuff is so thin, you can use an artist brush to apply it. It won't run as it drys very sticky, so great for both sides of the paper gasket. I will say, its nice to see you work with care and love of your engines.
6:25 This must be the case for my recently acquired Shovelhead. Apparently it sat for many years before I got it. After running it for a minute, I'll find a huge pool of oil underneath it. Sometimes it will spew out only after I turn it off. This has been slowly subsiding with each passing day that I start it up and let it run for a minute or two. Need to open up the pump.
Not really. Just take out the plug in the top of the pump body, the one on the lower level, not the one at the top of the tower. Carefully remove the spring, then take out the ball with a long thin clean magnet. Now, you can either replace them or just clean them. Do not stretch the spring. Put them back in and run clean oil and a fresh oil filter. After a couple or three hundred miles, change the oil again. Clean oil does wonders. Remember, that oil was overflowing out of the crankcase breather because the crankcase was full. It shouldn't be when you run the engine often enough. But, be careful to not overfill. That oil will return to the tank.
Mike,you missed the most important part of the oil pump install. You did not check to see if the pump will turn without binding. You can torque all the fasteners to the proper torque value and the pump might not even turn. You check this by using your thumb to turn the pump gear that runs off of the pinion gear. Yes you do have to remove the pinion gear to do this procedure, but you also have to do this to be certain that the pump is not binding at any point of it’s rotation. If the pump is binding, you have to start by loosening a cover fastener and tightening maybe the one across from it or loosening one of the bottom fasteners and tightening one of the top fasteners. You have to work the fasteners around until the pump doesn’t bind. This can take some time to do, sometimes you swear the frign things out to get you. Lol. I hope this makes sense, I’m a Harley mechanic not a service manual writer. Great video and videos Mike ,you do a great job!
@@pacificmike9501 well I hate to admit this but I've been at it 35 years and I'm still on the floor! 😂😂😂😂 I do have a nice lift I should have used it. I figured it would be a quick easy job. I'll get it done tomorrow one way or another. I appreciate all your great videos though thank you very much for all your time and effort that you put into them I learn a heck of a lot and most of all I learned patience!
I have about 100 thou clearance on oil pump drive gear on crank and collar ( 82 80 inch)basically sloppy worm gear on crank....they make different collars or do i need too make one... thanks mike ...
I think you're looking for a problem where there is none. But, still, a good question. That worm gear can slide in and out on the pinion shaft. As long as it doesn't slide far enough to lose it's key, there's no harm. That way, it self aligns with the oil pump drive gear. Those spacers are all the same size. I think you're fine.
Hi Mike, I appreciate your videos and that you take your time and explain as you go. This video on assembling shovelhead oil pump caught my attention. Specifically, you commented that the oil pump check ball/spring will sometimes allow oil into the breather (especially if bike not ridden often enough). I have that exact issue and have not been able to understand WHY this happens OR what (if anything) can be done to solve the problem (other than ridding more often). Any comments appreciated. Thanks, Dave
This is an age old issue. It's called "gravity." The oil tank gravity feeds to the pump. It's up higher than the pump. That's a good thing. But, when it's not running, that would be a bad thing, so there is a "check ball" and a spring to keep that oil in the tank and not going into the crankcase. If the bike sitts too long, the oil slides, a little at a time into the crankcase. Then it passes out through the breather onto the floor. First suggestion: When your bike has been sitting too long, put a pan under the breather hose before you start it. Second: Keep clean oil in it so the ball seats better. Third: Ride your bike often. Thank you Dave. I hope that helps.
Thank you for sharing. I hope that I can find a video of the oil pump hose routing sometime in the future. That's an issue I have with my 1980 Shovelhead
I have explained this one a lot. Looking at the pump, the line on the top outer fitting comes from the bottom of the tank. This is the feed line. The inner fitting on the top of the pump is the return line and it goes to the top of the tank at the base of the cap. The line from the crankcase close to the top of the pump (below the rear lifter block) is a breather hose going back to the top of the tank. There should be a tee in this line to go to the fitting in the middle of the inner primary housing. That skinny little line at the top of the oil pump feeds oil to the inner primary. On the inside lower rear corner of the primary is the return line from the inner primary, back to the crankcase fitting just just to the inside of the oil pump.
Very Much enjoyed the entire video. Was very informative. Am working on a 1975 FLH Shovelhead and need to know the mounting bolt size and threads. Any info would be helpful.
This is where the internet has a real positive - a lifetime of knowledge and experience right here , free of charge really...absolutely priceless, Thanks Mike !
I enjoyed your video too - as I'll likely be going into the pump this week. I've been trying to troubleshoot why my front cylinder is quiet on startup for 30 seconds - then starts making rocker tap noise - then completely goes away after 2 miles of riding and stays gone while engine is warm - with subsequent startups. I think I have checked all the usual suspects, rocker end play, clearance at the rocker box top, good hydraulic lifters etc. Screen is clean too. Had the head off 3 times... so was going to look at the pump next...
If the pump is circulating oil and it's returning to the tank, it sounds like a lifter problem. You know, when I say "It sounds like," I can't hear it. I'm having to go on what you tell me. If the sound goes away, let's think about it. Are the lifters positioned properly? Are the holes in the lifters pointing in, towards each other? Are all the passages clean from the cam cover, through the case, into the passages, to the lifter blocks, and then the lifters. Remember, the front exhaust lifter gets its oil last and due to the angle of the pushrod on the lifter, it is under the most strain. I hope this helps. I'll go into this more, if you need it.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks for the reply Mike. Oil pump is circulating... I have good flow back to the tank, and if I pull one of the rocker shaft end nuts, oil will flow out. I took care to be sure the lifters were properly positions... but I will pull the blocks and recheck, and look for obstructions... I did not use sealer on the block gaskets. I'm including a link with a video. ua-cam.com/video/6qQr4DcHIuA/v-deo.html
The ball in the pump holds the oil back into the tank. The spring that holds it is just strong enough to hold the ball on its seat when the bike is not running. The "plunger" or "piston" in the tower keeps the oil going up to the topend only. This keeps the pressure up and as soon as the motor warms up the piston moves and then half the oil goes to the topend and the other half circulates to the lower end. That's a quickie explanation. I don't know what year or model you have. But, with what I just said, read the explanation in the motor section of your Harley Davidson model correct service manual.
Thank you. The advantage of assembly lube is that it really clings to the surface of the parts and lubes them well before start up. Then, when the start up occurs, the parts already have lubricant before the oil gets to them. Before it was invented, you would lube with motor oil you're going to use. Then turn your motor over a bunch before startup, and circulate the oil (spark plugs out). If you have an electric starter, this isn't too hard. Spin the motor a little at a time, so as not to heat up the starter. One of my buddies, removes the spark plugs, and having no starter, puts the bike in top gear and pushes it around his yard to circulate the oil. I always get the motor oil circulated before startup the first time. I hope this helps.
Appreciate your motorcycles. Clean and cared for ! Wish I owned one ☝️ of them ! I own a 2010 fxdwg Thank you for your videos! Also wish we could ride!👍👌😎 I’m thinking any of your bikes would be in my living room ! Thank you friend stay safe!
Re Duke baron I had a similar problem with the revtech oil pump dumping oil from the crank breather then realised I had no return to the oil tank I filled the return with oil it must have been air locked because it cured the problem hope this helps great video's I am a subscriber Griff 78 shovelhead
Thanks for sharing. Not enough info though. Air blocks can occur in a number of places. If the machine has not been started since being assembled, "bleeding" the pump is in order. This brings up, "what is the model and year?" If we're talking about a Shovelhead, what year? If we're talking about an Evo, where is the oil tank? If it's on the bottom, are we talking about a Dyna? Does it have the appropriate year motor in it. Top or bottom breather? I can learn from peoples's experiences too.
I hope you can advise me as to what I should do with my new Rev-Tech pump for 81 and up. The bike is my late sons and once he passed away I wanted to finish his custom. It has a pan bottom with Delcron cases and the top end is a shovel. After all the money he had spent he used the old S&S pump but once the motor got heated up then the pressure would drop to like 3 lbs to 0. I installed a low 3 to 5 pound light on it and my best friend with me tagging behind to it for a 40+ mile ride. After we turned around he told me the light was on but once it got to 35 the light stayed out. But once we got back to the shop and it just at idle the light was on and no matter how much I revved it up it would no go off so we put back on the table so I could buy a new pump. I really wanted to buy an S&S but money was very tight and a few of the guys on the Shovelhead forum had the rev-tech and they were happy and it was less than half the price of an S&S so that is what I bought. After I installed it I had good pressure and it didn't drop all that low and was maybe around 30 lbs? The bike has not been back on the hwy with the new pump because of some health issues with my friend sad to say. All seemed to be fine with just some slumping of oil and I was told that was normal for these motors unless they were started more often and ridden so I could live with that even though I didn't like it all that much. But here is what happend next. I went to check the oil in the tank and there was none?? I called another friend that owns 3 pans + and evo and he told me the oil was bypassing the ball on the pump and he told me to remove the spring and the ball and use the old S&S ball and using a brass punch and a hammer then give the ball a few hits and then make sure all was clean and put the new ball back in and I then used I thnk the S&S spring because it was stronger and then added my 60 wt oil and fired it up and the pressure was like 40+ lbs so I thought it was good to go but boy was I wrong. He also told me the bike/motor/pump needs to be run on the hwy to brake in the new pump? Is he correct? If it set for 3 days or longer then it would slump at least a half qt or more before it would stop and I would say that is way too much for sure I think? I had a customer that is a bike builder come by to drop of his parts for me to powder coat and we walked over to the bike and I was telling him about it but when I checked the oil in the tank it was empty again sad to say. He told me that I should pull the pump and remove the spring and ball and using a pushrod and lapping compound then re-work the ball seat and that I could do but why in the hell do I need to do that with a new pump may I ask unless Rev-Tech didn't do a good job on making it? I do have the money now to buy a new S&S and they are from $288 to $332 but were more back in 2013 I think? What do you suggest I do??? Thanks and I hope I have given you all you need to know???
I couldn't say without looking everything over. Wet sumping usually improves with use and frequent oil changes. Cases and oil pumps have to be properly matched. I don't know which pump your case was intended to use. You call the cases Panhead cases. Or, are they generator shovelhead cases. Too much stuff put together without looking at it. I really try not to guess. I'm sorry.
@@pacificmike9501 Maybe I gave you to much info or to much to read? The bottom end is a pan but has new Delcron pan cases and it is the generator type but the top end is Shovel. It has S&S solid lifters and S&S adjustable pushrods. I had bought a new Rev-Tech oil pump and as I said before I had taken the ball a spring out of it and used a brass punch and the old S&S ball to re-work the seat and then I put the new ball back in along with the stronger spring that came out of the old S&S pump. I was told to try that because all the oil in my tank had drained into the cases and it has done the same thing again so that is why I am thinking of buying a new S&S one this time? A good biker friend of mine said the new pump needs to be broken in on the road and with any luck that might take care of this problem and that just bench running it will not work.
The feed gears are the same size as each other. The scavenge gears are the same size as each other. But, each one differs from the others, because two are idlers and two are driven.
Great video! Got a question though: is it possible to replace an oil pump on an engine without having side cover to remove? My problem is that the shaft would slide towards the engine, when I want to slip on the gear and then I am not able to put the snap ring on because the shaft doesn't stick out wide enough. As seen in your video you are pushing back the shaft from the inside of the engine with your hand, but my side cover is still on. Working on a stock 1950 FL. Thanks Mike!
You can do it, but I don't recommend it. Once the shaft slides in, the inner key falls out. You just can't be sure. If you decide to remove the cam cover, remove the generator, be sure you've backed off all of the pressure from the valvetrain (easiest to remove the pushrods). Remove everything else in your way, brake pedal etc. Now, after removing cover screws, carefully tap the inside of the cam cover, through the generator hole, with a wooden hammer handle. That will move it away from the crankcase so you can carefully remove it without gouging with implements of destruction. Yes, it's a lot of work. But it's beautiful in there.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks for your swift and detailed reply Mike. I really like your sense of humor :) Any suggestions on how to block the shaft when having the timing cover still on? Heard you can block it with the oil pump body being pushed against it from the side and have it secured with screws. I don’t really see that as there are two pins in the engine case that keep the oil pump body pretty tight in place and won’t allow the body to be pushed against the shaft as much as it would be needed. That gear sits quite tight on the shaft, so you need quite some force to lock the shaft. Greetings from Austria, Wolfgang
There are all sorts of ways to do it. I don't consider anything right or wrong. I just won't take the chance of dropping that key off of the shaft. You know, it's the key that makes the drive gear (the one driven by the worm gear on the pinion shaft) turn the shaft that makes the pump function. I just won't chance it.
@@pacificmike9501 Ok thanks! That's my plan, though it is hard as the motor is still on the bike, and 1 hand for magnifying glass, 1 for pick. I appreciate you answering for sure!
Good info. Can you give me directions on removing a tapet screen ,slotted bolt removal. Mine is locked up. Don't want to use impact driver to remove .worried about cracking block.
First off, be cool. Not a block, it is a "case." Okay, now you're cool. I get it, not always easy. Sometimes, sou have to damage something to save something. Obviously, you can more easily replace the plug. That being said, very carefully, with a punch and hammer, you locate the punch at a low angle near the end of the slot and hit it with a hammer. I hate it, but it works. Don't miss. Again, VERY Carefully. The other solution is what's called a "Drag Link" tool. It's designed for suspension work on old cars. It's a blunt ended screwdriver, for a 3/8 drive. Tapping that thing loose with a hammer and punch is routine. I wish I could reach it from here. I'd be glad to.
Hey Mike would it possible for you to make a video showing your methods when disassembling a bike to keep everything together and organized? What is your order of operations and anything you've found that helps over the years. Love your videos. Cheers
That's not a "one video" thing. Maybe we'll just talk about it. I took one apart and didn't put it together for about six years. ait came out of boxes in order and it's great. It can be done.
@@pacificmike9501 Understandable. I have a 80' fxs I inherited from my uncle. Your shovelhead videos have been extremely helpful and well put together and in doing so, have helped me get it running for a season of riding last year. It needs some tlc now though. What are some methods you use to keep everything ordered and together? Baggies? Boxes for each major component? Do you have a designated area in your shop for teardown parts? Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
Hi Mike, I have a question about the oil lines for the rocker boxes. I was just replacing the rocker box oil lines and noticed that two of the fittings have a smaller bore. I read somewhere that the two fittings with the smaller bore go in the crankcase and the underside of the rear rocker box, then the two with the larger bore go on the line between the rocker boxes; can you confirm this? Thank you. Show less
I can't really verify that. But, back in, I believe 1981, HD put out a bulletin to their dealers, with a part number for a fitting for those lines. It was the fitting coming out of the crankcase and had a much smaller hole than the original fitting. It was a restricter to limit the amount of oil going to the rocker boxes. This supposedly helped with potential leaks and there was supposedly less oil sitting in the boxes causing too much heat. The rocker arms and shafts just need to be wet with oil. I wouldn't swear to any of it. But, that's what I remember.
Thank you Mike for your reply. Your thoughts seem to support what I mentioned earlier, that the smaller bored nipples go in the crankcase and the underside of the rear rocker box. That being said, the two with larger bore go between the rocker boxes. Take care. Darren.
I have a question about a mistake that was made on my motor. We needed to drill a high pressure bypass hole in the case to work with the s&s oil pump. We didnt use the fixture that s&s says to use and we hit one of the bolt holes. its not in the threads of the bolt hole, and it doesnt interfere with the bolt once it is inserted. Have you ever done that and what would be your advice? The advice ive gotten was to put in a 1/4 setscrew into the threaded hole with jb weld and clean the threads out real good and just shorten up the bolt (the bolt is one of the bolts holding the nose cone on. )
When I need to do an "extraction," I approach it with a lot of thought. I was taught by a guy who worked in a boat yard. Conditions vary so much. A quick answer is not enough for you.
The rebuild kit comes with 2 snap rings. One has eyelets and the other doesn't. I noticed you used the one with eyelets. Does it matter which one is one is on the inner or outer gears? Hope it's not a stupid question. Thanks Mike.
Oil pumps are a complete study in themselves. Harley made minor changes in their Shovelhead oiling systems and you have to be very careful on your mix and matches. Tracing the oiling system all the way through your motor is a little rough. But, that's why the service manual has those beautiful diagrams. I've actually spent entire nights with manuals, cases and oil pumps spread all over the floor. "The oil must go from here to there." It takes a lot of time to understand, but when you finally get it, you can follow it all the way through. You'll find small changes in S&S oil pumps, compared to Harley"s own. That's why they supply such intricate and long winded instructions. Study your service manual.
Hello Mike have you ever drilled a case for oil pump upgrades it seems most all pumps available have the hole for the upgrade I would love a how too or your thoughts on the subject can it be done with the motor in the frame
Hi Mike, Good info. Quick question; what do you normally use on the oil pump fittings to ensure they seal? Do you use teflon tape or a Locktite sealant on the threads of the fittings? Thanks.
I carefully (don't take it out past the end) use teflon tape. Two wraps is plenty. Be sure you put it on in the right direction, so it doesn't unwind as you install the fitting.
I don't have an Indian anymore. The last one I had was '52, 80 inch Chief. It was fun, but I didn't work on enough of them to be showing "how it's done."
I have two generator shovels and a very correct '57 Pan, but I also have a '47 Chief that I built a couple years ago...I really like the Flatheads...good torque. Only negative is the three speed gearbox. Keep up the great videos!
Just realized I didn't answer your comment. Sounds like you have awesome toys. I had a huge trans sprocket on my Chief, but always wanted a 4speed, overdrive trans. Check with Mike Thomas at Kiwi Indian in Riverside CA.
Mike. Thank you so much for all of your amazing videos, they have helped me a lot. I am trying to put a new oil pump on my bike and I can’t figure out how to put the oil drive gear on. I see it was not taken off of the motor you used in this video. Any help for putting the oil drive gear on? Does the pinion shaft have to come out? Thanks Mike!!
You could use a simple gear puller, if you are very careful. Or, you could purchase a pinion gear puller from any of the aftermarket suppliers. The tool is shown in your service manual.
@@pacificmike9501 thank you so much for the response my friend! Just to be clear, I do have to pull the pinion gear in order to put on the oil drive gear, correct?
Hi Mike. I have a Vulcan 93"Panhead motor and I'm struggling to sort a oil pressure issue. From cold I have 20psi but nothing once hot ( needle doesn't move unless using very high revs. Ive had the pump off and cleaned everything and removed Pressure valve and checked piston and spring etc. blown out the oil lines fading the heads via braided hoses. The return is working well but when hot the lifters and rockers become very noisy when hot which suggests they aren't getting enough feed. Any remedies, ideas appreciated.
Look into the oil tank when it's running. You should see the oil returning. You're not looking for pressure, you're looking for volume. What oil pump (year group) does that pump look like. The pressure probably should drop once the motor reaches operating temp. Is this thing new? Did it come with a manual?
@@pacificmike9501 Hi Mike, Thanks for replying. It's a New Engine ( made maybe 6-7 years ago but never run till now) Vulcan Engineering ( Motorway) Joe Johns? Manchester New Hampshire make the Black Vulcan 93" Panhead Motor. The Pump is their own. Billet type. They don't have a manual or any customer support even though they have an email on the website, Ive never got a reply , and it seems many others have the same experience. Its got 10 tooth gears in oil pump * not the traditional 14 or later 9 tooth which seems usual. Ive taken off gauge and fitted switch but again once up to temperature it comes on a low revs and only goes out when revved quite hard . No rev counter so I'm guessing at about 3000+ before it goes out, so slow riding through town its on. Ive pulled off return when running and a lot is coming out , oil tank is new and oil flows out freely . Short case filter on front where genny normally goes ( yes checked filter type is correct) . Pressure spring is 2 2/8th long ( 1/8th over evo length) Piston or cylinder moves freely in pump body . Engine is sweet when cold , but as oil gets hot lifters and tappets get very noisy. Bit of a loss as to whats causing it, If you can see my email address and reply direct I can send you pictures if that helps?
@@pacificmike9501 Hi Mike, They make their own lifters and blocks. 81 up style oiler system 91 style pinion bearing. yes the holes in the lifters were facing each other.
Good Evening, you mentioned that if the bike sets that oil can make its way past the ball and come out the breather tube. How does one address this? My dad’s 79 FLH is currently doing this. Thanks!
Great video Mike. I have a 59 pan that sumps when sitting for a couple weeks and I bought a new check valve ball and spring and have been told to burnish the ball seat. I'd like to do this without removing the whole oil pump. Have you ever used one of the burnishing tools some guys sell and what do you thing of them? I don't want to use any kind of laping compound or polishing grit while the pump is on the motor. I havn't removed the old spring and ball yet so I don't know what the surface of the ball seat looks like. The brunishing tool is basically a 3/8 bal bearing silvered sodierd to a bolt.
Thanks Mike, yeah I don't ride it as much as I used to, I'll be 71 in a couple days but I ain't complaning, well not too much anyway lol. When I check out the seat I'll get a better idea and go from there. Keep up the great videos.
Yes, we got old, didn't we? If we can still kick 'em over. If we can still ride through the countryside. We're the "fortunate few" that made it this far. I'll make you a deal. I'll keep going if you will.
Hi Mike, great video. I'm installing a cast panhead oil pump on a pan that I'm rebuilding. The shaft spins freely in the bushing in the case, but when I install the pump body, the shaft will not spin freely. Just wondering if a suitable solution to this problem would be to lap or hone the assembly, then clean thoroughly and install?
Well, that sounds good, but I'd have to see and feel it to give you a useable answer. The body could have been warped from over tightening. Any damage could have occurred. This is time to get creative.
Can you remove and install the oil pump without removing the cam cover. Since you were holding that shaft from inside the camchest, when you were installing the outside gear.?
Yes, but it gets a little sketchy. If, when the pump is removed(in stages) the shaft travels inward, it is hard to be sure whether the key on the drive gear has fallen out. I don't like to do it. Too risky.
Enjoyed the video. Is there anyway you could cover adjustment and brakes shoe replacement on drum brakes in the future? Thanks again for the education that has paid off big time for me on my 56’ FLH.
Time and place for everything. I don't agree. Some do some don't. I like things to go together well and come apart well. I like nice clean threads. Some things require threadlocker and, I believe, some things don't.
Shovelheads were built from 66-84. Evos came out in 84. Check your vin. numbers in the factory service manual. They'll tell you what it is by the numbers.
Thought you run a C-clip on the oil pump side gear and a snap-ring on the cam chest side? Was watching this video to find a good way to get that C-clip installed.
@@pacificmike9501 I installed a snap-ring in mine :/ I'm worried now it will grind against the pump body cover. Am I safe or should I tear my pump apart again? (1980 Shovelhead)
@@TeapotLive well since the C-clip is on the outside it saves you a lot of time with the cam chest not in play. Personally on the engine I disassembled you could see distinct snap ring imprints in the oil pump housing because the previous owner didnt use a C clip.
@@TeapotLive I'd change it. Then in a month or two instead of worrying, you'll be saying glad I took the time to make sure it's right. Haha atleast that kind stuff eats at me.
@@pacificmike9501 Thank you , great video, its a little harder to work on oil pump when engine is in bike, but I got it, snap ring at cover end is really hard.
Great video and thank you. I see some people use a silicone type product over many of the motor gaskets as a secondary sealant, I guess. Can white lithium be used on all gaskets instead of a silicone product? Thanks!
Thank you. The right product for the right place. When assembling and installing the oil pump, the fear of plugging anything in it is major. Going back and having to seal a leak later is not nearly as bad. The point here is to seal it without the risk of a malfunction.
Pacific Mike, I want to let you know that I used your teaching video to replace my oil pump gaskets and cam chest gasket on my shovelhead. The tip about checking gasket holes is outstanding as at first I had inadvertently used the wrong one and had to do the job twice. All good lots of oil pressure, I put a guage on to confirm as well as the idiot light. Just purchased another used pump to rebuild. I am going to polish the outside what do you recommend or did you send yours out to a polisher?
My pump was later than the original and most of the surface that showed was pretty nice. Be careful to not mix oil pump models. I polish a lot by hand.
Hello , love your videos I have a question , I have 1982 shovelhead ,from what I understand I should have about a quart of oil in the primary when the bike is off , i have no oil in the primary, if i put a quart in the primary the pump will suck it out. So it goes out faster then it goes in, what’s the problem? pleas help James
What model Shovelhead? I believe you should have a dry clutch and a stock recirculating system on that primary. Pour a quart of oil into your primary? Not likely. Again, what have you got, FL, FX, FXR? Is this motorcycle stock? You may need to do dome serious cleanup if you have a bike with a dry clutch. If you're using a standard recirculating system like most Shovelheads, don't ask Evo or Twin cam guys how to service it, look in your service manual.
The system lubes the chain and the oil returns to the motor. You'll probably need to disassemble your clutch and clean it and don't pour oil in there again.
Yes, but be gentle. You want that tapered screw to seat but not damage the pump body. I don't know what year or model your bike is so I can't make any more suggestions.
Run your breather hose out past the frame inside the bottom rail on the right side. Make sure the fitting from the motor (inboard of the oil pump) is pointed down and the hose drops to horizontal. You need no hoses to or from the primary.
Hey Mike I apologize if this has already been asked but I was always told that you were not supposed to use a snap ring on the outer drive gear underneath the cover because it will not clear the cover. Can you verify this? I say this because that snap ring or should I say circlip is always a pain in the butt to get on or take off. It would be so much easier to use a snap ring but only one snap ring comes in the kit and that is for the inner drive gear.
That is correct, as I was taught. The way to get that circlip on is with practice. Take it slow. Don't hurry. The one on the inside takes practice with right angle snap ring pliers. But that outer one? No eyes. Just practice, then you'll wonder why you thought it was so difficult.
Love your instructions and refer to them frequently. I have a question. The spacer between the worm gear and pinion gear. I have between a 16th and an 8th inch gap between the spacer and gears. Is that too much? Does the worm gear float back and fourth? My cam is flush with the front of the pinion gear and my pinion gear nut is already torqued. Thanks in advance.
The worm gear floats and "self centers." You're good there. As long as the cam has the proper endplay, you're good there. Next time, please tell me the year and model of the engine. Enjoy.
For some odd reason my lower two oil pump bolts are seeping oil out . I just put the system back to stock for oiling in the primary and so far so good. Since you said you've been 400000 miles on the stock system no problem I went back to it to see if that takes care of my leak. Now the two lower oil pump bolts leaking ... Its possessed I think! Not leaking from body gaskets just out from the lower bolts? Ever seen it leak there?
Sure. Any time two pieces are bolted together, it's a potential leak. Oil pumps have to be tightened evenly according to factory torque specs or they warp. New gaskets, thin coating ot white lithium grease, torque spec according to Harley service manual, leak be gone.
@@pacificmike9501 I did tighten to 50 inch lbs but used gasgacinch. I've had good luck with that stuff. Maybe a rubber washer on the head if I can find one or silicone on the head where it meets the pump face. It doesnt leak around the body but shows the trail coming from both lower bolts. I dont know if there is a certain sequence to tighten the bolts I didnt see one anywhere and I have a factory service manual. I really dont feel like pulling that pump off again I just put it back on as the fitting on top was loose and leaking plus it snapped off. Fixed that leak now the bolts... One would think I'd warped it would seep out from between the halves and not around the bolts.. Dont think I've ever had a leaking bolt before...
@@pacificmike9501 Well I lucked out my pump sealed itself recently. Last 5 or 6 trips out dry as can be. I did turn each lower bolt about an 1/8th more just to snug a little more. I've been through a few tanks of gas and its all dry now. Put my primary back to stock and it's not leaking anymore. No standing oil now being sucked back out makes a big difference. I'll change my oil every 2k miles so it should be good. Again thanks for responding as usual appreciate your advice...✌
I know the inner retainer inside the gear case is a snap ring whereas the outer one is a circlip ring with no tabs. It's a pain in the butt to put on a snap ring would be much easier on the outside underneath the cover how do you know if you're going to have enough clearance for that? The rebuild kit that I bought came with one snap ring and one circlip in the book shows the circlip goes on the outside under the cover and a snap ring goes on the inside of the case. Can I substitute that outer circlip for a snap ring like you did or does it depend on what cover you're running? I'm running a 68b cast pump body with an S&S pump cover.
Mike, what do you recommend for flushing out the oil tank on a shovel-motored bike? I'm worried about accumulation of sludge in the bottom of the tank after several years of riding with winter storage in between seasons [but with oil changes at 3K mile intervals] that might collect and block or restrict the oil pump feed line. Would kerosene be a good choice? Thanks for the help.
Kerosene is what Harley Davidson always recommended. I know it's a pain, but, removing and washing the tank is a great idea. You didn't tell me what kind of tank you have. I have a stock tank on my 77 FLH. That's a great tank because, just like all the Shovelheads (and 65 Pan) up to about 81 (?), there's a great big oil cap on top. I always drop a clean shop rag in after draining and mop it around in there with a large screwdriver. Then, I reach in with a long old pair of pliers and pull that rag out. Before I recycle the rag, I inspect it to see if there's anything interesting in it. Another thing is, if you don't ride often or worse yet, only ride short distances, the oil doesn't get a chance to evaporate all of the impurities like it does when it warms up real good for a while. So change your oil often. May years ago, I was a service writer at a car dealership. I had a bunch of little old ladies with beautiful cars they had bought new and cared for. The cars were perfect except they never went further than the grocery store. So, I put them all on a schedule. Just bring the car in and get an oil change every six months. Problem solved. The mechanics loved them too, so they checked the cars out a little while they were there.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks very much, Mike. I appreciate the insight. Sorry to not specify the tank; mine is a softail style tank in a rigid frame, with a side fill opening only. I'm thinking that I'll dump a quart or so of kerosene in there, and rock the bike back and forth to stir it all around, then let it sit for a few minutes. Then swish it around again and drain it. I don't have a way to get a rag in there of course, but doing the rinse and drain bit maybe twice ought to do the trick, don't you think? Thanks again, you are appreciated.
first time working on a shovelhead. 1983 Low Rider. Ive learned so much from you. TY for all your vids, patience, explanation.
Glad to help.
There's no College or training school teach this kind of knowledge great job you guys
Thank You
I found my new therapist. So satisfying watching and hearing this knowledgeable man. Thank you for making and posting these videos.
My pleasure!
Great video. Good “Old School” teacher with a calm demeanor and lots of experience.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thank You.
A voice like John Wayne, and one of the coolest dudes.
Thank You
You are wonderful mike. I have learned so much about my bike from you its unreal. I cant thank you enough for what you do. You are by far my favorite harley guy on the planet. Thanks again brother.
Wow, thanks!
@@pacificmike9501 You are my favorite as well.
I'm not even a motorcycle owner or fan and I'm watching these videos. I don't even know how to ride one! Good camera work...we can always see how something is done.
Wow. Thank You.
Bob Ross of shovel heads. I like like it !!!
Thank you. Quite a compliment.
Happy little check ball.lol
Pacific Mike Much more mellifluous voice than Bob though
I say that! Hahahahha
@@pacificmike9501 Where just going to put a happy little oil pump right here lol
Thanks! I am dealing with no oil pressure on my 78 FLH. I have already taken the pump off and this video really helps.
I'm glad. Are you sure you have no pressure or are you believing the indicator light? The way to tell if you have circulation is to visibly watch the oil return into the oil tank. I've also seen unnecessary work done because of junk oil gauges.
excellently done! well thought out, researched, laid out, informative with great camera work and audio tutorial of what you're looking at, paying attention to, and what to look out for. Well done
Thank You.
Your videos are great. I feel like you are the professor when you explain "how to". I have been able to do repairs with confidence after seeing how it's done. I have 2 shovelheads so you know I am always working on something. Your videos are far above some of the jacklegs on youtube. Keep it up and thanks for the help. I'll see you on the road.
Thank You.
The best motorcycle teacher ever!
Thank You.
Love your way of showing these things. Specially your "... feeling really silly here..." (19:49) - well most people don't share that, but it makes it much more trustworthy. And thanks for showing us the fuzzle on the job - that's really helpful.
Thank You.
I love the way you explain every little detail and I think of a dear old friend that has passed away Gary Woodford and he was a patient man like you and you remind me of him. You have no idea how much you have helped all of the new guys. I have done this for 52 years and I have learned many things from you to my friend. And I am with you on the fact that the hardest part of the oil pump is the key and clip in the cam chest. I have a little tool for that outside clip but I have fat fingers lol. MLLH&R
Okay, I have "old" fingers. Thank You. And I'm learning lots of stuff from lots of people. It ain't over 'til we say it's over.
Excellent assembly job especially with all your little tips. Keep up the great videos Mike. I really look forward to them. I just called my son, and he is going to watch this later on today. Thank You.
Cool. Thank you.
Another great video with excellent camera work. The Lithium grease for holding the gaskets is a great tip. Thanks Mike!
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed it.
Thank you mike for all your videos, I have learned to be a pretty good wrench because of your instruction. Top shelf all the way my friend. Keep them coming and I'll be leading people to your channel as I have done for years now.
Wow. Thank You.
Thanks for this video. Putting back together an oil pump from a 1974 FL. Parts manual exploded view shows the oil pump relief valve spring going in first with the piston on top.. Service manual shows the piston going in first with the spring on top.Your video shows putting the piston in first with the hole on top and the spring on top going into the hole.
This was the only place I could find that info..Thank You
Sure wouldn't want to screw this up.
I installed it properly. It's a little frightening that it would be shown any other way.
Damn, I'm learning so much from these videos. Planning to get me a Shovelhead for my 35th birthday this year, so I'm planning ahead. This guy is like the Bob Ross of mechanics, and I mean that in a good way. :D Easy for someone who doesn't speak English as their first like me to follow the pace of him explaning things.
We try to become better with our presentations. Thank you for the encouragement.
@@pacificmike9501 That"s funny, Bob Ross of mechanics. I"ve been thinking that for a long time. Just not said it. Whenever I run into a problem with my shovel, I always refer to Pacific Mike, the Bob ross of Mechanics! There I said it! Hey thanks for being there for me Mike
Mike I can't thank you enough for your videos. After an oil pump failure I had to rebuild my 77 FXE and they were super helpful. You are making archival quality material keep up the great work. If you could do a video on oil leaks that would be appreciated.
That would be a video on everything. It all leaks, unless you decide it's not going to.
I like your videos , I am presently restoring 73 Super Glide, your information helps me greatly.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with everyone.
Melman !!
Thank you.
Also bought a 10 pack of that outer small c clip that shot off into no mans' land, lol. Used a small screwdriver to get it over the end of the shaft. Your video top shelf for us newbees.
Thank You. We all start out the same you know.
Mate many thanks for your instruction videos, I have an 1968 XLCH and relate to the maintenance. Keep them going sport, Brett in Tassie.
Thanks, will do!
Hi Mike just wanted to let you know that I really appreciate you brother , thanks for all the great shovelhead videos and i look forward to seeing more i have 5 bikes all shovels , thanks again brother, see you out on the road lol Joe from Illinois
Thank you. More to come. Shovels are great. But, I love 'em all. It's always fascinated me how different each one is from another.
Dropping that "K" bomb... knowledge! It is ya friend exactly when ya own a classic motorcycle like this. Thank you for sharing it.
Thank You for watching.
I subscribed just the other day, thanks for sharing your knowledge Pacific Mike! I've been thinking about buying an old shovel to rebuild myself. I think I may be able to with your video library!
Awesome. It is an adventure.
This is one of my favorite video's , great job.
Thank You.
Thanks Mike! Too me this is the most important part of any motor build!
It's all gotta work together.
@@pacificmike9501 but at the same time this is the heart of the machine. That brings a lifeblood to every internal part. Except for that pesky front rocker arm.. what's your fix on that mike?
What is the issue?
Good tutorial Mike. I changed the gaskets and springs in the oil pump on my Shovelhead, in the Philippines. No cell phones then, used the Harley Davidson Service manual.
Works for me. Thank You.
Thanks bud, appreciate guys like you that help us out
Our pleasure!
Excellent video !! Even my friends are catching on now !
Thank you and your friends. Much appreciated.
Great video. I've tried a lot of different ways to seal oil pump gaskets, currently have Hylomar on them, white litho grease seems like a great idea. On my kit the outer snap ring had no holes for a tool but it when on pretty easy working it around the groove with a pick. I would check to make sure there is no interference in the small recess of the outer cover with the larger snap ring.
Thank you, and good thinking.
Well done Mike another great video. Excellent 😊
Glad you enjoyed it
Dear Mike: There is a very old sealing compound called "Welseal", you may have heard of it? This compound sealer comes in a tube and lasts for ever.
It was first used on old steam railway engines, many moons ago and has proved to be excellent for classic motorcycles over the years.
Opening the tube, you will notice it has a low viscosity. Once opened it needs to be stood upright as it will run out of the tube all over the place.
Now this is why its "SO good"! Once the faces are clean and dry, take a dribble on your finger which has a foreboding brownish colour.
When you smear a thin layer with your fingertip onto the work peace, you'll know the correct amount because it will turn yellow on the work.
This stuff is similar to the compounds use in factory made gaskets of all types. Very sticky to the touch, brown too thick, yellow just right.
I know you will love it, great for holding gaskets in place and exultant for putting crank cases together.
Sounds great. Will the excess plug anything? Will it mix with oil? This is why I use white lithium on oil pumps. I gotta do more research. Again, sounds good and Thank You.
@@pacificmike9501 Yes; I know what you mean, but this stuff is so thin, you can use an artist brush to apply it. It won't run as it drys very sticky, so great for both sides of the paper gasket. I will say, its nice to see you work with care and love of your engines.
6:25 This must be the case for my recently acquired Shovelhead. Apparently it sat for many years before I got it. After running it for a minute, I'll find a huge pool of oil underneath it. Sometimes it will spew out only after I turn it off. This has been slowly subsiding with each passing day that I start it up and let it run for a minute or two. Need to open up the pump.
Not really. Just take out the plug in the top of the pump body, the one on the lower level, not the one at the top of the tower. Carefully remove the spring, then take out the ball with a long thin clean magnet. Now, you can either replace them or just clean them. Do not stretch the spring. Put them back in and run clean oil and a fresh oil filter. After a couple or three hundred miles, change the oil again. Clean oil does wonders. Remember, that oil was overflowing out of the crankcase breather because the crankcase was full. It shouldn't be when you run the engine often enough. But, be careful to not overfill. That oil will return to the tank.
@@pacificmike9501 Thank you very much, Mike. I was not expecting a response, let alone one so quickly. It is appreciated!
It is a standard happening, don't despair. If the bike sits too long, put a pan under it before starting.
Mike,you missed the most important part of the oil pump install. You did not check to see if the pump will turn without binding. You can torque all the fasteners to the proper torque value and the pump might not even turn. You check this by using your thumb to turn the pump gear that runs off of the pinion gear. Yes you do have to remove the pinion gear to do this procedure, but you also have to do this to be certain that the pump is not binding at any point of it’s rotation. If the pump is binding, you have to start by loosening a cover fastener and tightening maybe the one across from it or loosening one of the bottom fasteners and tightening one of the top fasteners. You have to work the fasteners around until the pump doesn’t bind. This can take some time to do, sometimes you swear the frign things out to get you. Lol. I hope this makes sense, I’m a Harley mechanic not a service manual writer. Great video and videos Mike ,you do a great job!
Thank You
You made that outer key look so easy to install. I'm trying to do it with it on the bike and it is a pain in the butt.
After you've done it a bunch of times? Nuthin to it. It helps to have the bike on a lift too.
@@pacificmike9501yes I suppose.. I'm doing it on the ground.
We all started there. It was tough. But then, when I started in a shop, there weren't any lifts yet.
@@pacificmike9501 well I hate to admit this but I've been at it 35 years and I'm still on the floor! 😂😂😂😂 I do have a nice lift I should have used it. I figured it would be a quick easy job. I'll get it done tomorrow one way or another. I appreciate all your great videos though thank you very much for all your time and effort that you put into them I learn a heck of a lot and most of all I learned patience!
I'm really glad if this stuff is useful. We all need to ride.
I have about 100 thou clearance on oil pump drive gear on crank and collar ( 82 80 inch)basically sloppy worm gear on crank....they make different collars or do i need too make one... thanks mike ...
I think you're looking for a problem where there is none. But, still, a good question. That worm gear can slide in and out on the pinion shaft. As long as it doesn't slide far enough to lose it's key, there's no harm. That way, it self aligns with the oil pump drive gear. Those spacers are all the same size. I think you're fine.
Pacific Mike thanks so much.... first newer 80 inch one i worked on. My ole 74s didnt move much. Key will stay in...
Thank you again Mike!
I think this makes manufacturing a little easier.
I like to use 60w or 70w oil when assembling a motor. Seems to work pretty good.
It clings pretty well. Assembly lube is the same, only better.
The Bob Ross of Shovelhead maintenance. 👍
Thank You.
thank you Mike 71 shovelhead build here
Cool.
Hi Mike, I appreciate your videos and that you take your time and explain as you go. This video on assembling shovelhead oil pump caught my attention. Specifically, you commented that the oil pump check ball/spring will sometimes allow oil into the breather (especially if bike not ridden often enough). I have that exact issue and have not been able to understand WHY this happens OR what (if anything) can be done to solve the problem (other than ridding more often). Any comments appreciated. Thanks, Dave
This is an age old issue. It's called "gravity." The oil tank gravity feeds to the pump. It's up higher than the pump. That's a good thing. But, when it's not running, that would be a bad thing, so there is a "check ball" and a spring to keep that oil in the tank and not going into the crankcase. If the bike sitts too long, the oil slides, a little at a time into the crankcase. Then it passes out through the breather onto the floor. First suggestion: When your bike has been sitting too long, put a pan under the breather hose before you start it. Second: Keep clean oil in it so the ball seats better. Third: Ride your bike often. Thank you Dave. I hope that helps.
Thank you for sharing. I hope that I can find a video of the oil pump hose routing sometime in the future. That's an issue I have with my 1980 Shovelhead
I have explained this one a lot. Looking at the pump, the line on the top outer fitting comes from the bottom of the tank. This is the feed line. The inner fitting on the top of the pump is the return line and it goes to the top of the tank at the base of the cap. The line from the crankcase close to the top of the pump (below the rear lifter block) is a breather hose going back to the top of the tank. There should be a tee in this line to go to the fitting in the middle of the inner primary housing. That skinny little line at the top of the oil pump feeds oil to the inner primary. On the inside lower rear corner of the primary is the return line from the inner primary, back to the crankcase fitting just just to the inside of the oil pump.
Hay man the Indian is back going thanks for all your videos……mark
Cool.
Very Much enjoyed the entire video. Was very informative. Am working on a 1975 FLH Shovelhead and need to know the mounting bolt size and threads. Any info would be helpful.
3/8 Fine. There are sets in the catalogs you can buy that are really nice. Use high quality stuff here.
This is where the internet has a real positive - a lifetime of knowledge and experience right here , free of charge really...absolutely priceless, Thanks Mike !
Thank You.
Thats gotta be worthy of a like"n"share folks!. Great Job Mike.
Good job by the camera man as well.
Thank You.
Nice video Mike, great explanation for us mere mortals!
Keep it up
Thanks.
Glad you liked it!
Great show, and Great information. TKS.
Thanks for watching.
I enjoyed your video too - as I'll likely be going into the pump this week. I've been trying to troubleshoot why my front cylinder is quiet on startup for 30 seconds - then starts making rocker tap noise - then completely goes away after 2 miles of riding and stays gone while engine is warm - with subsequent startups. I think I have checked all the usual suspects, rocker end play, clearance at the rocker box top, good hydraulic lifters etc. Screen is clean too. Had the head off 3 times... so was going to look at the pump next...
If the pump is circulating oil and it's returning to the tank, it sounds like a lifter problem. You know, when I say "It sounds like," I can't hear it. I'm having to go on what you tell me. If the sound goes away, let's think about it. Are the lifters positioned properly? Are the holes in the lifters pointing in, towards each other? Are all the passages clean from the cam cover, through the case, into the passages, to the lifter blocks, and then the lifters. Remember, the front exhaust lifter gets its oil last and due to the angle of the pushrod on the lifter, it is under the most strain. I hope this helps. I'll go into this more, if you need it.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks for the reply Mike. Oil pump is circulating... I have good flow back to the tank, and if I pull one of the rocker shaft end nuts, oil will flow out. I took care to be sure the lifters were properly positions... but I will pull the blocks and recheck, and look for obstructions... I did not use sealer on the block gaskets. I'm including a link with a video.
ua-cam.com/video/6qQr4DcHIuA/v-deo.html
You remind me of bob ross mike. I could listen to you talk all day long man!
Thank You.
Mike can you also explain what the holes and plunges are for on the oil pump. And how they work.
The ball in the pump holds the oil back into the tank. The spring that holds it is just strong enough to hold the ball on its seat when the bike is not running. The "plunger" or "piston" in the tower keeps the oil going up to the topend only. This keeps the pressure up and as soon as the motor warms up the piston moves and then half the oil goes to the topend and the other half circulates to the lower end. That's a quickie explanation. I don't know what year or model you have. But, with what I just said, read the explanation in the motor section of your Harley Davidson model correct service manual.
Great video, what can I use instead assambly lube? Thank you
Thank you. The advantage of assembly lube is that it really clings to the surface of the parts and lubes them well before start up. Then, when the start up occurs, the parts already have lubricant before the oil gets to them. Before it was invented, you would lube with motor oil you're going to use. Then turn your motor over a bunch before startup, and circulate the oil (spark plugs out). If you have an electric starter, this isn't too hard. Spin the motor a little at a time, so as not to heat up the starter. One of my buddies, removes the spark plugs, and having no starter, puts the bike in top gear and pushes it around his yard to circulate the oil. I always get the motor oil circulated before startup the first time. I hope this helps.
@@pacificmike9501 helps a lot more than I spected
I hadn't any idea of the white lithium grease
Thank you for sharing
You are so welcome
Beautiful job as always! Thank you Mike
Thank you too!
Appreciate your motorcycles. Clean and cared for ! Wish I owned one ☝️ of them ! I own a 2010 fxdwg Thank you for your videos! Also wish we could ride!👍👌😎 I’m thinking any of your bikes would be in my living room ! Thank you friend stay safe!
Glad you like them! Thank You.
Some very good information on the shovel oil pump in this video. Thank-you !✌🌴☮
Thank you.
Re Duke baron I had a similar problem with the revtech oil pump dumping oil from the crank breather then realised I had no return to the oil tank I filled the return with oil it must have been air locked because it cured the problem hope this helps great video's I am a subscriber Griff 78 shovelhead
Thanks for sharing. Not enough info though. Air blocks can occur in a number of places. If the machine has not been started since being assembled, "bleeding" the pump is in order. This brings up, "what is the model and year?" If we're talking about a Shovelhead, what year? If we're talking about an Evo, where is the oil tank? If it's on the bottom, are we talking about a Dyna? Does it have the appropriate year motor in it. Top or bottom breather? I can learn from peoples's experiences too.
Bob Ross of Harleys
Thank You
wondering is the seal on gear shaft in body supposed to be tight? i noticed you had to hit body to get it on.
It works as a seal. So, yes, it is fairly tight.
I hope you can advise me as to what I should do with my new Rev-Tech pump for 81 and up. The bike is my late sons and once he passed away I wanted to finish his custom. It has a pan bottom with Delcron cases and the top end is a shovel. After all the money he had spent he used the old S&S pump but once the motor got heated up then the pressure would drop to like 3 lbs to 0. I installed a low 3 to 5 pound light on it and my best friend with me tagging behind to it for a 40+ mile ride. After we turned around he told me the light was on but once it got to 35 the light stayed out. But once we got back to the shop and it just at idle the light was on and no matter how much I revved it up it would no go off so we put back on the table so I could buy a new pump. I really wanted to buy an S&S but money was very tight and a few of the guys on the Shovelhead forum had the rev-tech and they were happy and it was less than half the price of an S&S so that is what I bought.
After I installed it I had good pressure and it didn't drop all that low and was maybe around 30 lbs? The bike has not been back on the hwy with the new pump because of some health issues with my friend sad to say. All seemed to be fine with just some slumping of oil and I was told that was normal for these motors unless they were started more often and ridden so I could live with that even though I didn't like it all that much.
But here is what happend next. I went to check the oil in the tank and there was none?? I called another friend that owns 3 pans + and evo and he told me the oil was bypassing the ball on the pump and he told me to remove the spring and the ball and use the old S&S ball and using a brass punch and a hammer then give the ball a few hits and then make sure all was clean and put the new ball back in and I then used I thnk the S&S spring because it was stronger and then added my 60 wt oil and fired it up and the pressure was like 40+ lbs so I thought it was good to go but boy was I wrong. He also told me the bike/motor/pump needs to be run on the hwy to brake in the new pump? Is he correct?
If it set for 3 days or longer then it would slump at least a half qt or more before it would stop and I would say that is way too much for sure I think? I had a customer that is a bike builder come by to drop of his parts for me to powder coat and we walked over to the bike and I was telling him about it but when I checked the oil in the tank it was empty again sad to say. He told me that I should pull the pump and remove the spring and ball and using a pushrod and lapping compound then re-work the ball seat and that I could do but why in the hell do I need to do that with a new pump may I ask unless Rev-Tech didn't do a good job on making it?
I do have the money now to buy a new S&S and they are from $288 to $332 but were more back in 2013 I think?
What do you suggest I do??? Thanks and I hope I have given you all you need to know???
I couldn't say without looking everything over. Wet sumping usually improves with use and frequent oil changes. Cases and oil pumps have to be properly matched. I don't know which pump your case was intended to use. You call the cases Panhead cases. Or, are they generator shovelhead cases. Too much stuff put together without looking at it. I really try not to guess. I'm sorry.
@@pacificmike9501 Maybe I gave you to much info or to much to read? The bottom end is a pan but has new Delcron pan cases and it is the generator type but the top end is Shovel. It has S&S solid lifters and S&S adjustable pushrods. I had bought a new Rev-Tech oil pump and as I said before I had taken the ball a spring out of it and used a brass punch and the old S&S ball to re-work the seat and then I put the new ball back in along with the stronger spring that came out of the old S&S pump. I was told to try that because all the oil in my tank had drained into the cases and it has done the same thing again so that is why I am thinking of buying a new S&S one this time? A good biker friend of mine said the new pump needs to be broken in on the road and with any luck that might take care of this problem and that just bench running it will not work.
Great help as always. Are both idler gears the same size? Thanks!
The feed gears are the same size as each other. The scavenge gears are the same size as each other. But, each one differs from the others, because two are idlers and two are driven.
Great video! Got a question though: is it possible to replace an oil pump on an engine without having side cover to remove? My problem is that the shaft would slide towards the engine, when I want to slip on the gear and then I am not able to put the snap ring on because the shaft doesn't stick out wide enough. As seen in your video you are pushing back the shaft from the inside of the engine with your hand, but my side cover is still on. Working on a stock 1950 FL. Thanks Mike!
You can do it, but I don't recommend it. Once the shaft slides in, the inner key falls out. You just can't be sure. If you decide to remove the cam cover, remove the generator, be sure you've backed off all of the pressure from the valvetrain (easiest to remove the pushrods). Remove everything else in your way, brake pedal etc. Now, after removing cover screws, carefully tap the inside of the cam cover, through the generator hole, with a wooden hammer handle. That will move it away from the crankcase so you can carefully remove it without gouging with implements of destruction. Yes, it's a lot of work. But it's beautiful in there.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks for your swift and detailed reply Mike. I really like your sense of humor :) Any suggestions on how to block the shaft when having the timing cover still on? Heard you can block it with the oil pump body being pushed against it from the side and have it secured with screws. I don’t really see that as there are two pins in the engine case that keep the oil pump body pretty tight in place and won’t allow the body to be pushed against the shaft as much as it would be needed. That gear sits quite tight on the shaft, so you need quite some force to lock the shaft. Greetings from Austria, Wolfgang
There are all sorts of ways to do it. I don't consider anything right or wrong. I just won't take the chance of dropping that key off of the shaft. You know, it's the key that makes the drive gear (the one driven by the worm gear on the pinion shaft) turn the shaft that makes the pump function. I just won't chance it.
Where do you buy all the new parts u get
I buy them from the major suppliers of aftermarket parts, through their dealers. Sometimes at shops, sometimes on line.
Is there a special pair of pliers that you use to remove the circlips on the oil pump shaft? The outside clip with no holes?
I usually use a pick or even two at once on them. Pretty hard 'til you get used to them.
@@pacificmike9501 Ok thanks! That's my plan, though it is hard as the motor is still on the bike, and 1 hand for magnifying glass, 1 for pick. I appreciate you answering for sure!
I used a piece of fishing line and a pick. Worked the line under one end and pulled it around. After driving myself nuts with two picks...
Good info. Can you give me directions on removing a tapet screen ,slotted bolt removal. Mine is locked up. Don't want to use impact driver to remove .worried about cracking block.
First off, be cool. Not a block, it is a "case." Okay, now you're cool. I get it, not always easy. Sometimes, sou have to damage something to save something. Obviously, you can more easily replace the plug. That being said, very carefully, with a punch and hammer, you locate the punch at a low angle near the end of the slot and hit it with a hammer. I hate it, but it works. Don't miss. Again, VERY Carefully. The other solution is what's called a "Drag Link" tool. It's designed for suspension work on old cars. It's a blunt ended screwdriver, for a 3/8 drive. Tapping that thing loose with a hammer and punch is routine. I wish I could reach it from here. I'd be glad to.
Hey Mike would it possible for you to make a video showing your methods when disassembling a bike to keep everything together and organized? What is your order of operations and anything you've found that helps over the years. Love your videos. Cheers
That's not a "one video" thing. Maybe we'll just talk about it. I took one apart and didn't put it together for about six years. ait came out of boxes in order and it's great. It can be done.
@@pacificmike9501 Understandable. I have a 80' fxs I inherited from my uncle. Your shovelhead videos have been extremely helpful and well put together and in doing so, have helped me get it running for a season of riding last year. It needs some tlc now though. What are some methods you use to keep everything ordered and together? Baggies? Boxes for each major component? Do you have a designated area in your shop for teardown parts? Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
Hi Mike, I have a question about the oil lines for the rocker boxes. I was just replacing the rocker box oil lines and noticed that two of the fittings have a smaller bore. I read somewhere that the two fittings with the smaller bore go in the crankcase and the underside of the rear rocker box, then the two with the larger bore go on the line between the rocker boxes; can you confirm this? Thank you.
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I can't really verify that. But, back in, I believe 1981, HD put out a bulletin to their dealers, with a part number for a fitting for those lines. It was the fitting coming out of the crankcase and had a much smaller hole than the original fitting. It was a restricter to limit the amount of oil going to the rocker boxes. This supposedly helped with potential leaks and there was supposedly less oil sitting in the boxes causing too much heat. The rocker arms and shafts just need to be wet with oil. I wouldn't swear to any of it. But, that's what I remember.
Thank you Mike for your reply. Your thoughts seem to support what I mentioned earlier, that the smaller bored nipples go in the crankcase and the underside of the rear rocker box. That being said, the two with larger bore go between the rocker boxes. Take care. Darren.
Nice jobVery enjoyable to watch you work
Thank You.
I have a question about a mistake that was made on my motor. We needed to drill a high pressure bypass hole in the case to work with the s&s oil pump. We didnt use the fixture that s&s says to use and we hit one of the bolt holes. its not in the threads of the bolt hole, and it doesnt interfere with the bolt once it is inserted. Have you ever done that and what would be your advice? The advice ive gotten was to put in a 1/4 setscrew into the threaded hole with jb weld and clean the threads out real good and just shorten up the bolt (the bolt is one of the bolts holding the nose cone on. )
Show it to a good machinist and see what he suggests. I'd have to look at it.
@@pacificmike9501 problem is a good machinest had done it and I'm embarrassed to ask him what he thinks. but thats a me problem i suppose.
When I need to do an "extraction," I approach it with a lot of thought. I was taught by a guy who worked in a boat yard. Conditions vary so much. A quick answer is not enough for you.
The rebuild kit comes with 2 snap rings. One has eyelets and the other doesn't. I noticed you used the one with eyelets. Does it matter which one is one is on the inner or outer gears? Hope it's not a stupid question. Thanks Mike.
The one with "eyelets goes inside the camchest. It makes it easier to R&R. The plain one is inside the oil pump cover.
Thanks Mike
Hi Mike , can u school us on why some shovelheads have a hole by the relief in the inner gasket and some inner gaskets are straight across. ?
Oil pump
Oil pumps are a complete study in themselves. Harley made minor changes in their Shovelhead oiling systems and you have to be very careful on your mix and matches. Tracing the oiling system all the way through your motor is a little rough. But, that's why the service manual has those beautiful diagrams. I've actually spent entire nights with manuals, cases and oil pumps spread all over the floor. "The oil must go from here to there." It takes a lot of time to understand, but when you finally get it, you can follow it all the way through. You'll find small changes in S&S oil pumps, compared to Harley"s own. That's why they supply such intricate and long winded instructions. Study your service manual.
Hello Mike have you ever drilled a case for oil pump upgrades it seems most all pumps available have the hole for the upgrade I would love a how too or your thoughts on the subject can it be done with the motor in the frame
Google sscycle.com and find S&S directions on Shovelhead oil pumps. And, yes, it can be done in the frame.
That 2nd keys a pain.first one i did was still on the bike.lol what a night that was.
Do it a bunch of times. It gets easier.
Keep up the good work Mike
Thank You.
Hi Mike, Good info. Quick question; what do you normally use on the oil pump fittings to ensure they seal? Do you use teflon tape or a Locktite sealant on the threads of the fittings? Thanks.
I carefully (don't take it out past the end) use teflon tape. Two wraps is plenty. Be sure you put it on in the right direction, so it doesn't unwind as you install the fitting.
Thanks for your reply Mike. Good to see you're making more videos. Maybe one of us should make some for the Indian guys out there!
I don't have an Indian anymore. The last one I had was '52, 80 inch Chief. It was fun, but I didn't work on enough of them to be showing "how it's done."
I have two generator shovels and a very correct '57 Pan, but I also have a '47 Chief that I built a couple years ago...I really like the Flatheads...good torque. Only negative is the three speed gearbox. Keep up the great videos!
Just realized I didn't answer your comment. Sounds like you have awesome toys. I had a huge trans sprocket on my Chief, but always wanted a 4speed, overdrive trans. Check with Mike Thomas at Kiwi Indian in Riverside CA.
Mike. Thank you so much for all of your amazing videos, they have helped me a lot. I am trying to put a new oil pump on my bike and I can’t figure out how to put the oil drive gear on. I see it was not taken off of the motor you used in this video. Any help for putting the oil drive gear on? Does the pinion shaft have to come out? Thanks Mike!!
You could use a simple gear puller, if you are very careful. Or, you could purchase a pinion gear puller from any of the aftermarket suppliers. The tool is shown in your service manual.
@@pacificmike9501 thank you so much for the response my friend! Just to be clear, I do have to pull the pinion gear in order to put on the oil drive gear, correct?
Are we talking about the worm gear? If it's okay, why remove it?
Hi Mike. I have a Vulcan 93"Panhead motor and I'm struggling to sort a oil pressure issue. From cold I have 20psi but nothing once hot ( needle doesn't move unless using very high revs. Ive had the pump off and cleaned everything and removed Pressure valve and checked piston and spring etc. blown out the oil lines fading the heads via braided hoses. The return is working well but when hot the lifters and rockers become very noisy when hot which suggests they aren't getting enough feed. Any remedies, ideas appreciated.
Look into the oil tank when it's running. You should see the oil returning. You're not looking for pressure, you're looking for volume. What oil pump (year group) does that pump look like. The pressure probably should drop once the motor reaches operating temp. Is this thing new? Did it come with a manual?
@@pacificmike9501 Hi Mike, Thanks for replying.
It's a New Engine ( made maybe 6-7 years ago but never run till now) Vulcan Engineering ( Motorway) Joe Johns? Manchester New Hampshire make the Black Vulcan 93" Panhead Motor. The Pump is their own. Billet type. They don't have a manual or any customer support even though they have an email on the website, Ive never got a reply , and it seems many others have the same experience. Its got 10 tooth gears in oil pump * not the traditional 14 or later 9 tooth which seems usual. Ive taken off gauge and fitted switch but again once up to temperature it comes on a low revs and only goes out when revved quite hard . No rev counter so I'm guessing at about 3000+ before it goes out, so slow riding through town its on. Ive pulled off return when running and a lot is coming out , oil tank is new and oil flows out freely . Short case filter on front where genny normally goes ( yes checked filter type is correct) . Pressure spring is 2 2/8th long ( 1/8th over evo length) Piston or cylinder moves freely in pump body . Engine is sweet when cold , but as oil gets hot lifters and tappets get very noisy. Bit of a loss as to whats causing it,
If you can see my email address and reply direct I can send you pictures if that helps?
I've not experienced this motor. Are these stock type hydraulics? If so, are the holes in the lifters pointed toward each other in each lifter block?
@@pacificmike9501 Hi Mike, They make their own lifters and blocks. 81 up style oiler system 91 style pinion bearing. yes the holes in the lifters were facing each other.
Good Evening, you mentioned that if the bike sets that oil can make its way past the ball and come out the breather tube. How does one address this? My dad’s 79 FLH is currently doing this. Thanks!
Put a pan under it. Making sure the level doesn't go too low, run it until it clears out. The crankcase is full and must pump itself out.
@@pacificmike9501thanks for your response! I appreciate what you do and the knowledge you pass on to us all!
Glad to help. And it is a bunch of fun.
Great video Mike. I have a 59 pan that sumps when sitting for a couple weeks and I bought a new check valve ball and spring and have been told to burnish the ball seat. I'd like to do this without removing the whole oil pump. Have you ever used one of the burnishing tools some guys sell and what do you thing of them? I don't want to use any kind of laping compound or polishing grit while the pump is on the motor. I havn't removed the old spring and ball yet so I don't know what the surface of the ball seat looks like. The brunishing tool is basically a 3/8 bal bearing silvered sodierd to a bolt.
Thanks Mike, yeah I don't ride it as much as I used to, I'll be 71 in a couple days but I ain't complaning, well not too much anyway lol. When I check out the seat I'll get a better idea and go from there. Keep up the great videos.
Yes, we got old, didn't we? If we can still kick 'em over. If we can still ride through the countryside. We're the "fortunate few" that made it this far. I'll make you a deal. I'll keep going if you will.
Deal, it aint over till it's over :-)
Hi Mike, great video. I'm installing a cast panhead oil pump on a pan that I'm rebuilding. The shaft spins freely in the bushing in the case, but when I install the pump body, the shaft will not spin freely. Just wondering if a suitable solution to this problem would be to lap or hone the assembly, then clean thoroughly and install?
Well, that sounds good, but I'd have to see and feel it to give you a useable answer. The body could have been warped from over tightening. Any damage could have occurred. This is time to get creative.
Thank you!
Can you remove and install the oil pump without removing the cam cover. Since you were holding that shaft from inside the camchest, when you were installing the outside gear.?
Yes, but it gets a little sketchy. If, when the pump is removed(in stages) the shaft travels inward, it is hard to be sure whether the key on the drive gear has fallen out. I don't like to do it. Too risky.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks Mike! I guess I am going to have to get some more gaskets, then.
Enjoyed the video. Is there anyway you could cover adjustment and brakes shoe replacement on drum brakes in the future? Thanks again for the education that has paid off big time for me on my 56’ FLH.
We've done it. It's in our videos. We'll do more of it on the Project Bike.
I noticed you don’t use any lock tight on holding bolts, I’ve been told to use it on everything. Any advice on that Mike.
Time and place for everything. I don't agree. Some do some don't. I like things to go together well and come apart well. I like nice clean threads. Some things require threadlocker and, I believe, some things don't.
Your awesome! Do you have a video on the worm drive gear, or how much end to end play it should have?
It can only go so far. It finds it's happy place and you're good.
Pacific Mike does the late model Shovelhead oil pump work on the early model Evo engine
There are some differences. It is worth getting the proper pump for your engine.
It seems to be a 1991 Sturgis engine Evo but it looks like Shovelhead cases it must have been the year where they switch I think
Shovelheads were built from 66-84. Evos came out in 84. Check your vin. numbers in the factory service manual. They'll tell you what it is by the numbers.
Thought you run a C-clip on the oil pump side gear and a snap-ring on the cam chest side? Was watching this video to find a good way to get that C-clip installed.
You are correct. A "right angled" pair of small snap ring pliers is the best way.
@@pacificmike9501 I installed a snap-ring in mine :/ I'm worried now it will grind against the pump body cover. Am I safe or should I tear my pump apart again? (1980 Shovelhead)
@@TeapotLive well since the C-clip is on the outside it saves you a lot of time with the cam chest not in play. Personally on the engine I disassembled you could see distinct snap ring imprints in the oil pump housing because the previous owner didnt use a C clip.
@@TeapotLive I'd change it. Then in a month or two instead of worrying, you'll be saying glad I took the time to make sure it's right. Haha atleast that kind stuff eats at me.
which direction does the lip face on the 1976 FLH oil pump , book says toward feed gears, it looks like you feed it to the other scavenger gears?
You're reading the book right.
@@pacificmike9501 Thank you , great video, its a little harder to work on oil pump when engine is in bike, but I got it, snap ring at cover end is really hard.
Great video and thank you. I see some people use a silicone type product over many of the motor gaskets as a secondary sealant, I guess. Can white lithium be used on all gaskets instead of a silicone product? Thanks!
Thank you. The right product for the right place. When assembling and installing the oil pump, the fear of plugging anything in it is major. Going back and having to seal a leak later is not nearly as bad. The point here is to seal it without the risk of a malfunction.
Thanks Mike!
Pacific Mike, I want to let you know that I used your teaching video to replace my oil pump gaskets and cam chest gasket on my shovelhead.
The tip about checking gasket holes is outstanding as at first I had inadvertently used the wrong one and had to do the job twice.
All good lots of oil pressure, I put a guage on to confirm as well as the idiot light. Just purchased another used pump to rebuild. I am going to polish the outside what do you recommend or did you send yours out to a polisher?
My pump was later than the original and most of the surface that showed was pretty nice. Be careful to not mix oil pump models. I polish a lot by hand.
Hello , love your videos
I have a question , I have 1982 shovelhead ,from what I understand I should have about a quart of oil in the primary when the bike is off , i have no oil in the primary, if i put a quart in the primary the pump will suck it out. So it goes out faster then it goes in, what’s the problem?
pleas help
James
What model Shovelhead? I believe you should have a dry clutch and a stock recirculating system on that primary. Pour a quart of oil into your primary? Not likely. Again, what have you got, FL, FX, FXR? Is this motorcycle stock? You may need to do dome serious cleanup if you have a bike with a dry clutch. If you're using a standard recirculating system like most Shovelheads, don't ask Evo or Twin cam guys how to service it, look in your service manual.
it is a FX lowrider , it has s7s oil pump, primary has chain oiler breather vent and a return line
The system lubes the chain and the oil returns to the motor. You'll probably need to disassemble your clutch and clean it and don't pour oil in there again.
If you have converted to belt, can i just fully tightened the oil adjustment screw? Or does it have som other function?
Yes, but be gentle. You want that tapered screw to seat but not damage the pump body. I don't know what year or model your bike is so I can't make any more suggestions.
@@pacificmike9501 thanks Mike! i got a 1976 shovelhead
Run your breather hose out past the frame inside the bottom rail on the right side. Make sure the fitting from the motor (inboard of the oil pump) is pointed down and the hose drops to horizontal. You need no hoses to or from the primary.
Hey Mike I apologize if this has already been asked but I was always told that you were not supposed to use a snap ring on the outer drive gear underneath the cover because it will not clear the cover. Can you verify this? I say this because that snap ring or should I say circlip is always a pain in the butt to get on or take off. It would be so much easier to use a snap ring but only one snap ring comes in the kit and that is for the inner drive gear.
That is correct, as I was taught. The way to get that circlip on is with practice. Take it slow. Don't hurry. The one on the inside takes practice with right angle snap ring pliers. But that outer one? No eyes. Just practice, then you'll wonder why you thought it was so difficult.
Love your instructions and refer to them frequently. I have a question. The spacer between the worm gear and pinion gear. I have between a 16th and an 8th inch gap between the spacer and gears. Is that too much? Does the worm gear float back and fourth? My cam is flush with the front of the pinion gear and my pinion gear nut is already torqued. Thanks in advance.
The worm gear floats and "self centers." You're good there. As long as the cam has the proper endplay, you're good there. Next time, please tell me the year and model of the engine. Enjoy.
@@pacificmike9501 awesome thanks. You are awesome to watch as well. Sorry it's a 76 74" shovelhead.
For some odd reason my lower two oil pump bolts are seeping oil out . I just put the system back to stock for oiling in the primary and so far so good. Since you said you've been 400000 miles on the stock system no problem I went back to it to see if that takes care of my leak. Now the two lower oil pump bolts leaking ... Its possessed I think! Not leaking from body gaskets just out from the lower bolts? Ever seen it leak there?
Sure. Any time two pieces are bolted together, it's a potential leak. Oil pumps have to be tightened evenly according to factory torque specs or they warp. New gaskets, thin coating ot white lithium grease, torque spec according to Harley service manual, leak be gone.
@@pacificmike9501 I did tighten to 50 inch lbs but used gasgacinch. I've had good luck with that stuff. Maybe a rubber washer on the head if I can find one or silicone on the head where it meets the pump face. It doesnt leak around the body but shows the trail coming from both lower bolts. I dont know if there is a certain sequence to tighten the bolts I didnt see one anywhere and I have a factory service manual. I really dont feel like pulling that pump off again I just put it back on as the fitting on top was loose and leaking plus it snapped off. Fixed that leak now the bolts... One would think I'd warped it would seep out from between the halves and not around the bolts.. Dont think I've ever had a leaking bolt before...
@@pacificmike9501 Well I lucked out my pump sealed itself recently. Last 5 or 6 trips out dry as can be. I did turn each lower bolt about an 1/8th more just to snug a little more. I've been through a few tanks of gas and its all dry now. Put my primary back to stock and it's not leaking anymore. No standing oil now being sucked back out makes a big difference. I'll change my oil every 2k miles so it should be good. Again thanks for responding as usual appreciate your advice...✌
I found using a magnet on the shaft to hold the key in place from the motor side helps.
Never tried that. Pretty cool.
I know the inner retainer inside the gear case is a snap ring whereas the outer one is a circlip ring with no tabs. It's a pain in the butt to put on a snap ring would be much easier on the outside underneath the cover how do you know if you're going to have enough clearance for that? The rebuild kit that I bought came with one snap ring and one circlip in the book shows the circlip goes on the outside under the cover and a snap ring goes on the inside of the case. Can I substitute that outer circlip for a snap ring like you did or does it depend on what cover you're running? I'm running a 68b cast pump body with an S&S pump cover.
When in doubt, follow the book. You may have enough room and you may not.
Hello Mike, can the oil pump be removed with out going into the camchest?
You really need to know that the key on the driveshaft of the oil pump inside the camchest is seated properly and still in place.
Just noticed something I used the clip without the ears. Do you suggest a snap ring with ears like in your video? Curious.
Go by the parts book. Sometimes, those ears can get in the way. Be very careful of this.
Mike, what do you recommend for flushing out the oil tank on a shovel-motored bike? I'm worried about accumulation of sludge in the bottom of the tank after several years of riding with winter storage in between seasons [but with oil changes at 3K mile intervals] that might collect and block or restrict the oil pump feed line. Would kerosene be a good choice? Thanks for the help.
Kerosene is what Harley Davidson always recommended. I know it's a pain, but, removing and washing the tank is a great idea. You didn't tell me what kind of tank you have. I have a stock tank on my 77 FLH. That's a great tank because, just like all the Shovelheads (and 65 Pan) up to about 81 (?), there's a great big oil cap on top. I always drop a clean shop rag in after draining and mop it around in there with a large screwdriver. Then, I reach in with a long old pair of pliers and pull that rag out. Before I recycle the rag, I inspect it to see if there's anything interesting in it. Another thing is, if you don't ride often or worse yet, only ride short distances, the oil doesn't get a chance to evaporate all of the impurities like it does when it warms up real good for a while. So change your oil often. May years ago, I was a service writer at a car dealership. I had a bunch of little old ladies with beautiful cars they had bought new and cared for. The cars were perfect except they never went further than the grocery store. So, I put them all on a schedule. Just bring the car in and get an oil change every six months. Problem solved. The mechanics loved them too, so they checked the cars out a little while they were there.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks very much, Mike. I appreciate the insight. Sorry to not specify the tank; mine is a softail style tank in a rigid frame, with a side fill opening only. I'm thinking that I'll dump a quart or so of kerosene in there, and rock the bike back and forth to stir it all around, then let it sit for a few minutes. Then swish it around again and drain it. I don't have a way to get a rag in there of course, but doing the rinse and drain bit maybe twice ought to do the trick, don't you think? Thanks again, you are appreciated.
I believe twice is what Harley used to recommend in the old service manuals.
@@pacificmike9501 Fantastic. I'm off to the hardware store for kerosene. Thanks much.