Revell: Jaguar E-Type Part 1 Bodywork & Paint
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- Опубліковано 27 сер 2024
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![JAGUAR E-TYPE 1/24 HELLER Model car build [Full version]](/img/n.gif)
A mistake was made in the edit. This is the airbrush i used.
A combination of the fan nozzle and regular nozzle. Testing to see what works best for me. And when to use wich.
Mr Hobby Ps-290 Airbrush:
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Grip for PS-290:
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0.5mm needle 2BAR(29PSI) airpressure
The issue with the orange peel on zero paints I had once as well. I was applying to much paint at once which made that Orange peel effect. I think you have to change how you apply the paint with that new Airbrush you are using. less pressure and more distance I think. What nozzle have you used, .5 .4 ??
I'd like to see the re-do on the body. Its nice to know that even a pro like yourself has to start over sometimes too. I've had similar issues with red plastic as well.
If you want to see him redo a body there is the Fast and Furious Supra he did as well
Lovely colour choice. The convertible is in opalescent silver blue by the way. I also used the light grey primer on mine but fortunately the green paint I used was dark enough to cover the red.
Thomas
I to ran into that kind of trouble as well. Crackling in places. I sanded everything I could and repainted the colour. What a pain in the butt. Keep up the good work.
Perfect choice of colour
Great info....thanks. My '65 4.2 was what Jag called "Platinum Blue"...that's the pic you have. Wish i had her back...one more awesome car.
Wow, you got started on this one fast!
Yosemite Blue from Splash paints. Looks more like the blue you are looking for.
I had the same issue with a "fan nozzle" on an older brush. Need to offset the layers more so you're putting down less paint.
I was simply impatient. And probably did not wait long enough between coats.
Plus red plastic makes this all a lot harder to get right with these “hot laquer” paints
I love your job, hugs from Brazil.
Have you ever thought about trying the Mary Kay Cadillac pink. That is a nice looking color like this bluish silver. Its a nice soft pink. At Plasman a plastic injection molding plant is where I seen the color. We molded the D-pillars for Chevy and Cadillac. Once in a while. The Mary Kay ping was used..
WOW!! I actually called it! I got the color right in your previous video when you asked for suggestions! I said a classy slivery-blue color!! Can't believe I guessed it right! Yay me!! 👏👏Now I say, the interior should be a nice tan or medium brown leather. 👍👍
You got the body color right indeed. All i can say about the interior color guesses is, wrong 🤭😋
@@TheScalemodelingChannel It's gonna be red isn't it? That's even cooler.
@@06VistaBlueGT1 nope🤣
@@TheScalemodelingChannel 😂 I guess it's gonna be a black interior.
@@06VistaBlueGT1 still, nope😅🤣😂
man you need to fix audio levels, some part are quiter than others
Excelente primera parte del armado de este Jaguar tipo E, estupendo proceso de detallado de la carrocería y de pintura.
Mis respetos y saludos desde Venezuela.💯💯💯💯💯👍👍👍👍👍🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘🙏🙏🙏🙏
What do you think about that kit? Some modellers have complain about shape issues at front window. Yes you must renew your sound and clear up your airbrush box, a lot of dirt there on the air filter. But all in all great work as always.
Looks brilliant
Nice coach work!!! I'll be watching
Hallo Tom. Wanneer een paintjob is mislukt, gebruik ik (poeder)afbijtmiddel voor zacht hout. Enkele uren laten weken. Het model is daarna volledig schoon en zonder beschadiging. Ook details blijven gespaard. Ik doe dit al 40 jaar met succes. Groet, Bert
Hallo Bert,
Het doel is juist het model niet te strippen. Dan krijg ik namelijk wederom het zelfde effect in de kleurlaag. Als ik het nu lichtjes opschuur, en opnieuw spuit. Dan trekt de kleurlaag mooi strak over de 2k lak. En heeft het ook maar 1 a 2 dunne laagjes nodig om te dekken.
Wel bedankt voor de tip!
Kun je wat meer vertellen over die afbijt poeder ?
@@modestforest Elke verfwinkel heeft dit poeder van diverse merken. Papje maken en enkele uren laten inwerken. met nagelborstel afpoetsen. Succes.
@@TheScalemodelingChannel Met metalic heb je gelijk. Prima werk Tom!
I never liked the E-Type, but as allway's i love your work 😁😁
How dare you!
@@egorkudashkin7463 i dare :D it's sadly f&^ing ugly looking to me :D as is goes for an Jaguar model and that's my opinion :)
Excelente!
Trabalho impecável.
A cor é muito bonita. A base tem que estar muito bem preparada pois ela denuncia qualquer erro.
Acompanhando.
Parabéns!!!
Finally I understand why my builds never turn out as well as yours. You said you removed the sprues from the parts, but for decades I've been removing the parts from the sprues! And here I was afraid it had something to do with my mediocre modeling skills. BTW I'm also hazy on the distinction between what you call parts and what you call pieces?
Dark molded kits can be a bummer to cover. I recently started a quality kit that came dark maroon i wanted it white i thought good priming would cover. 2 coats of white primer both came out pink! Bummer, against better judgment the final white will cover wrong! Pink!! I didn't feel like stripping so i just covered it blue/black lol. Ok so if this happens to you and your dead set on a particular color try this,and its what i should have done, into your white primer mix a little of the opposite color your trying to cover look at a color wheel you can get at your art supplies store. If you don't hv a color wheel go outside on bright sunny day stare 30 or 40 seconds, at your red or green plastic model then quickly look at a bright white sheet of paper you'll see a ghost image of your model and the color you see it is the opposite mix a little of that a few drops into your white primer then you should be able to paint what ever color you want it. Hope this helps. Peace from Califas
1:07 to skip ads
Red molded plastic is the worst when it comes to painting. Sometimes even with some gray primers, the red will still bleed through. I usually spray about 2 coats of primer for a red body, but that's just me.
As for thinning primers and paints, I always found the rule of thumb is to make sure the viscosity is about the same consistency of milk. I could be wrong, but that's what I've heard in the past.
Milk like viscosity is indeed correct.
I can’t think of a comment
Hi! I wanted to say awesome content love the videos!
I had a idea for you as well,
I have heard of car modellers actually going to Napa or a place that will mix a cars colour code as a rattle can, have you ever done a side by side of the results of zero paints and a custom mixed can ? If not might be a neat thing to try and use the two custom types and see what one stands out . Anyway have a awesome day!
The issue with the finish on the hood sounds like your colour reacting to either the primer or the lacquer - I've seen a few instances of this recently with paint manufacturers trying to move away to more environmentally friendly chemicals that they occasionally have a reaction if you're dealing with paint from different manufacturers.
are you like the red color?
Hello
Very good job as usual!
However, while painting, the video indicates always "Tamiya 0,2m/m engraving blade & holder" instead of the specifications of the airbrush used.
So, would please specify the needle, the pressure and the airbrush used
Thank's a lot
Have a very nice day
Yes i know. My bad. All is linked and specified in the description
Looks great so far try to find the scribbers you use here in Canada
Links are in the description ;)
Hubiera quedado genial en "British Racing Green", por tradición y esas cosas; pero aun asi me gusta.
Hello! I’ve been watching your videos for some time and have learned a lot. I don’t want to be “that guy” but the title bars that describe the equipment you are using said “.2 mm tamiya scribe and holder”. I kept waiting for the description of the airbrush you were using, since it looks like you were using a fan cap. Can you please tell us what air brush you were using?
Also I am wondering if the zero paint color you were using was “too hot” and caused the problem on the hood. I have used zero paint with good results but I used a similar blue color (Nassau blue) once and it lead to the same problem. Just a thought.
Ah crap, my mistake. It is all linked in the description though ;)
You do amazing work. I've been watching your channel for a few years. I own a 2018 dodge challenger. Was wondering if I were to find a model of it, would you paint it for me? Of course I would pay you for it. I use to do models myself but unfortunately my hands lost a lot of stability during my time in the Marines
Feel free to email me with details:
Info@thescalemodelingchannel.com
Thank you for your service!
I haven't seen any newer model Dodge Charger models in a while. I remember Testors and Revell made a Dodge Charger SRT-8 Super Bee model kit several years ago, but it's the 2007-2009 model years. I'm sure there are die-casts available for your certain model year. Heck, maybe in the color you have.
@@MarkMeadows90 Charger and challanger are not the same mark ;) Both are available in diecast form i’m pretty sure. Kit form it stops around 08 for both challenger and charger
@@TheScalemodelingChannel I misread. My apologies.
I am wondering if the paint was suffering from a bit of a crazing issue? I generally let lacquers cure for around 24 hrs or so before trying to topcoat. And usually you do as well from what I have seen in the past. Here you seemed to be in a bit of a hurry. So the paint under the 2k may not have been cured and thus can craze underneath the the topcoat. Just a friendly observation.
It could be crazing. i however always apply the clear after about 30 minutes to an hour. so thats nothing new for my paintjobs.
Then again. the red(bright) colored plastics are a b***h XD
@@TheScalemodelingChannel like i said just an observation. The wrinkle in the hood looked a bit like it. I had a bad run in with crazing before on a gunpla and have always been more cautious about curing times sense. It can happen to any of us keep up the great work!
I had the same sandpaper finish even before I sprayed clear. So it’s probably zeropaint affecting the primer or even the plastic underneath. Maybe zeropaint requires some kind of plastic sealer?
How do you like the new airbrush? Do you use different airbrush’s for different spraying jobs, one for primer, different one for color and another for clear coat?
Love it. I use the same one for everything
Always seems like Revell kits need so much work.
Agree.
Looking good! That's a good tip about using a marker on the mould lines as a sanding guide. Is this a re-release of the Revel Jaguar E-Type? I built one a few years ago, and it came with the option of it being built with roof on or off.
Nope. This is an entirely new tool
I have found with zero and splash paints that in the deeper area's that I am painting I get a rougher surface. Any ideas on how to eliminate that?
Those are dry spots. Meaning the paint is dry before it hits those areas, so you need to spray more paint in those areas.
Ok thanks
How do you prevent runs in your paint. I’m using acrylics and keep having that problem
If you have runs. You need to apply less paint
@@TheScalemodelingChannel I tried to apply less paint but my paint seems to be drying to fast in my airbrush
Did you find that the sides of the bonnet stuck out beyond the main body. I know a few people have had the same issue. If you did how did you rectify it? Thanks
No, mine fit just fine first try.
Mine were 2 mm too wide at the bonnet sides. Used almost boiling water to carefully band them.
I also had sandpaper finish with zeropaint. Now wondering if I should strip it or just sand down.
do you use this brush for all painting? starting from epoxy primer, basecoat to clearcoat
Yes
@@TheScalemodelingChannel amazing 👍👍
You should do it like the one from Austin powers
I think you can skip filming the redo of the body and focus on the next parts of the process. Btw, your choice in color is always 👌
Nice Color Choice ! Bummer about all the difficulties . would like to see the paint,clear Fix's 🐒
Did you sand between each coat?
No
Tom, mooi model en jammer van het extra werk dat het had. Maar ik heb met de primer van zero paint ook iets. Wanneer ik het model in primer zet lijkt het wel korrelig te worden. Ervaring mee?
Zeker. Druppeltje verdunner er bij en het zou opgelost moeten zijn.
I like your airbrush. I want similar to paint car bodies. What brush are you using? Model looks great so far.
Links and details are in the video description ;)
@@TheScalemodelingChannel : Yes they are, but not in the video itself where you print the carving tool specifications each time the aero is beginning. Take care of the copy/paste function which isn't always your friend !
@@raphanunu6912 i’m aware. Mistakes where made.
Got a link to everything except where you got the kit? Seems to still be a pre-order in the US?
I’m not from the US, so not sure when its available there
You can order Revell models kits from their Germany line of kits through Amazon, Model Round Up, and other places.
@@MarkMeadows90 Thanks...but pricing is crazy right now....model is not worth $50.
your videos are great but the sound is terrible. Some times we can't even hear you talk.
Seem to waste lots of paint, why so much over spray? Air and paint could be dialed back.
It looks like the 911
🤗👍👌
Quiero hacerte una critica constructiva, sos muy bueno en pintura pero te tendrías que jugar mas en una producción en modificaciones o realizar cosas en las maquetas, así brilla mas tus trabajos... sigo a varios del mismo rubro y hacen trabajos muy muy buenos pero la falta el toque de pintura para que me deslumbre en su totalidad.
Habla de sus errores en el video. Siempre habrá partículas de polvo al pintar una maqueta. Dijo algo sobre el plástico rojo que estaba actuando mientras pintaba. No es perfecto, pero servirá. El plástico rojo moldeado es el peor para pintar.
@@MarkMeadows90 No no me entendieron, yo dije que es muy bueno en sus trabajos de pintura pero para estar en un siguiente nivel tendría que usar su creatividad en las maquetas no nada mas en armar y pintar, yo veo hobbys de compañeros de UA-cam que hace trabajo artísticos muy muy buenos. a eso me refería Nandemode, Garaje A4 y otro mas que son realmente bueno, acá veo que hace trabajos de pintura muy buenos pero le falta esa magia para estar a un nivel mucho mayor en darle mas vida a la maqueta.
@@adrianbekerian4518 Entiendo. Deberías mirar hpiguys Workshop. Él es un constructor de modelos, pero hace construcciones y revisiones de kits de modelos simples. Siempre les dice a sus suscriptores de UA-cam: "Construye como quieras. No le digas a nadie cómo debes construir tus modelos".
@@MarkMeadows90 Si lo conozco, es todo de lo mismo que todos, sigo diciendo los mejores en hacer maquetaciones en general son Nandemode, Garaje A4... te muestra técnicas y creatividad en como hacer todo. obviamente en pintura para mi es el mejor The Scalemodeling Channel, pero le falta esa nivel que se puede diferenciar un los demás.
My reaction for your new airbrush......bruh
Move on x
Move on to what?
@@TheScalemodelingChannel you asked if we wanted to see the paint defects repaired, or to move on with the build. x
@@bobbyse26 Gotcha