Use Code: CC10 for 10% Off (Limited time only) xTool D1 Pro 20W & IR Laser BUNDLE: 👉 US: bit.ly/xToolIRBundle 👉 UK: bit.ly/UKBundlexTool 👉 EU: bit.ly/EUBunlextool 👉 xTool IR Laser Module ONLY bit.ly/xToolIRModule My new FAVORITE Laser for engraving metal: 👉 xTool F1 Ultra NEW - F1 Ultra US: bit.ly/F1UltraUSA - F1 Ultra EU: bit.ly/F1UltraEU - F1 Ultra UK: bit.ly/UltraF1UK 👉 xTool S1 US Store: bit.ly/48RUUO9 ($200 off $2299, CODE: XTCUT200) UK Store: bit.ly/46UVSqV EU Store: bit.ly/46k7VNE
Thank you for this video. My partner and I are wanting to get into laser engraving but the cost of one of the big commercial machines is pretty daunting. Adding the IR unit to a 20 W diode seems to be a great solution. Thank you for awesome demonstrations and great explanations, as always.
Nicely done. A couple questions. Your laser bed has no burn marks. Do you never use the diode laser on this bed? And is eye protection needed when using the infrared laser? I really enjoy that you get right at it when explaining the topic. Thanks, David
A quick funny side note... I've had one of these for about 8 months but I really though I was ordering a 20 watt pro as a backup to my 40 watt pro. I've been watching videos on this laser and went to look at the 20 watt to sell it and realized I was sent this one.. This was a couple of days ago. I jumped in on the LaserPecker 4 premium which is a little beast itself. But now, I'll have to get this one out and see how it works vs. the LaserPecker 4.
So question on the power cord you changed out…is there a new power cable that comes with the IR laser? I only have the 20W laser so not sure if I have to change something else as well. Thanks for the video, really good info!!
I have a question. I have the F1 -- not ultra. Is this the same power as that, at 2 watts? Or is it like the F1 Ultra and 20 watts? I can't find an answer, thanks!! Great video as always!!☺ I'm trying to decide whether to get the F1 Ultra next, or the S1 and add this module. What do you think?
Hey there! Yes, this IR module is indeed the same power as the regular F1 which is 2W. The F1 Ultra is a complete different animal and is my FAVORITE laser currently! The S1 is a complete powerhouse. If you plan on doing a lot of cutting or engraving and need larger bed space, the S1 is the way to go. If you want more flexibility in engraving material, the F1 Ultra is the way to go. IF you do decide to go with the S1, I wouldn't worry about the IR module for the S1 since you have the F1... Unless you just want to engrave bigger metal products. Hope this helps!
Thank you for sharing. I find the focus arm not accurate on my IR module. It focuses too high, and therefor it is a constant fiddle job. Made myself an acrylic block to a specific height that seems to set the module correctly. But even this block needs to be put under the module just right to adjust the module height. Setting the module on it too snug or too loose, changes the color of the engraving from black to white or grey on the silver sheet I am trying out. It is a fiddle job for sure. You better have a lot of patience if your focusing arm is not set correctly. When it works, it looks great. Trying gold next... will see. Not liking the brown color so much I see on your gold sample, hope to get more of a black. The detail is amazing, though. I would agree, even with my difficulties, for the money, it is a nice addition to the other modules. If you are serious about engraving metal, though, need deep engravings, and need to do production work to make money, investing in a faster 'real' fiber laser, spending the $3000 for an entry level machine, might make more sense.
Which fiber laser would you recommend for stainless steel? Comm marker seems to be one of the cheapest options so far I found but I could not find real user reviews except UA-camrs
I just purchased an xTool....so excited !!! QUESTION: CAN YOU USE THE LASER TO TRANSFER IMAGE AN ONTO WOOD FOR THE PURPOSE OF DREMEL CARVING IT??? This so you don't have to use graphite paper and any other method to transfer it onto the wood
I used my IR module a lot now, and i do like the results, perfekt details always, but, it´s to slow for anything else than one off things. Larger pieces than small jewelry takes forever. As a complement for those occasions you do one or a few small metal pieces other than stainless, yes, anything else you do need to jack up to a fibre laser.
Have me a nice little 3018.. i was gonna extend it for the 65$ but decided to grab a atezr v35 plus.. this thing is amazing and worth every penny.. ive done all kinds of material even glass!.. check it out
@@theman-pc2ej I was installing the extension bed today, putting it back in when I noticed the 2 support rods are on a different spacing. Grr, took me ages to line up those T nuts that join the bed extrusions to the MDF. Turns out there are a few 3040 extension kits just like there are a few 3018. Nice laser, might have to upgrade, the 3018 was a nice toy to learn on but......
@babbagebrassworks4278 yea i still love my 3018.. came with a router originally but i upgraded to the laser and never went back. New one runs just the same for the most part but has two rotory things that make it even better..
Im sending mine back focusing is a nightmare with this wasted loads of material and guess work to even get close and very slow. wished there was an easier way of focusing ..
My focusing arm is inaccurate too -- about 1.25 mm off. So I spent some time figuring out the correct focusing distance and then I 3d printed a block that I could put between the material and the lens of the laser and I use that for focusing.... it works great. I have also added the Z-axis height adjuster from AlivePixelCreates to my D1 Pro which allows me to fine tune the focus easily.
A blue diode laser will doo all this also so i dont see why youd buy a 600$ add on.. unless the original xtool laser just sucks.. xtool is so over priced!..
@@LazyReacts Along with the Longer B1 30 watt, I bought their 1064nm Ruby laser with a smaller .03MM x .03MM beam at ONLY 400 bucks. It blows x-tools IR laser out of the water....
Good info, BUT, at ~ 3:30 you need to take a class on the proper use of a caliper. Try to always measure the item in the Flat portion of the caliper and have the object not on edge, (not perpendicular , but parallel). The reading you got was nowhere near the widest portion of the ring's diameter. FYI feedback to help you measure better.... Just say'in....
Use Code: CC10 for 10% Off (Limited time only)
xTool D1 Pro 20W & IR Laser BUNDLE:
👉 US: bit.ly/xToolIRBundle
👉 UK: bit.ly/UKBundlexTool
👉 EU: bit.ly/EUBunlextool
👉 xTool IR Laser Module ONLY bit.ly/xToolIRModule
My new FAVORITE Laser for engraving metal:
👉 xTool F1 Ultra NEW
- F1 Ultra US: bit.ly/F1UltraUSA
- F1 Ultra EU: bit.ly/F1UltraEU
- F1 Ultra UK: bit.ly/UltraF1UK
👉 xTool S1
US Store: bit.ly/48RUUO9 ($200 off $2299, CODE: XTCUT200)
UK Store: bit.ly/46UVSqV
EU Store: bit.ly/46k7VNE
Hey brother, this links to the wrong bundle. I purchased the bundle but its the 20w.
I used my 20w non infrared to engrave SS no problem 30 speed 100 % power.
Thank you for this video. My partner and I are wanting to get into laser engraving but the cost of one of the big commercial machines is pretty daunting. Adding the IR unit to a 20 W diode seems to be a great solution. Thank you for awesome demonstrations and great explanations, as always.
Glad it was helpful!
That is awesome. Thank you for doing the test work for us so we can retest here with ideas.
I’m glad you found it useful!
Nicely done. A couple questions. Your laser bed has no burn marks. Do you never use the diode laser on this bed? And is eye protection needed when using the infrared laser? I really enjoy that you get right at it when explaining the topic. Thanks, David
A quick funny side note... I've had one of these for about 8 months but I really though I was ordering a 20 watt pro as a backup to my 40 watt pro. I've been watching videos on this laser and went to look at the 20 watt to sell it and realized I was sent this one.. This was a couple of days ago. I jumped in on the LaserPecker 4 premium which is a little beast itself. But now, I'll have to get this one out and see how it works vs. the LaserPecker 4.
So question on the power cord you changed out…is there a new power cable that comes with the IR laser?
I only have the 20W laser so not sure if I have to change something else as well.
Thanks for the video, really good info!!
Hey there! Yes, it will require a different power brick which the IR module comes with.
I have a question. I have the F1 -- not ultra. Is this the same power as that, at 2 watts? Or is it like the F1 Ultra and 20 watts? I can't find an answer, thanks!! Great video as always!!☺ I'm trying to decide whether to get the F1 Ultra next, or the S1 and add this module. What do you think?
Hey there! Yes, this IR module is indeed the same power as the regular F1 which is 2W. The F1 Ultra is a complete different animal and is my FAVORITE laser currently! The S1 is a complete powerhouse. If you plan on doing a lot of cutting or engraving and need larger bed space, the S1 is the way to go. If you want more flexibility in engraving material, the F1 Ultra is the way to go. IF you do decide to go with the S1, I wouldn't worry about the IR module for the S1 since you have the F1... Unless you just want to engrave bigger metal products. Hope this helps!
@@CorneliusCreations Thanks so much!
Thank you for sharing. I find the focus arm not accurate on my IR module. It focuses too high, and therefor it is a constant fiddle job. Made myself an acrylic block to a specific height that seems to set the module correctly. But even this block needs to be put under the module just right to adjust the module height. Setting the module on it too snug or too loose, changes the color of the engraving from black to white or grey on the silver sheet I am trying out. It is a fiddle job for sure. You better have a lot of patience if your focusing arm is not set correctly. When it works, it looks great. Trying gold next... will see. Not liking the brown color so much I see on your gold sample, hope to get more of a black. The detail is amazing, though.
I would agree, even with my difficulties, for the money, it is a nice addition to the other modules. If you are serious about engraving metal, though, need deep engravings, and need to do production work to make money, investing in a faster 'real' fiber laser, spending the $3000 for an entry level machine, might make more sense.
I agreee im sending mine back cant get it to focus corretly wasted so much materisl testing nightmare realy ..
Which fiber laser would you recommend for stainless steel? Comm marker seems to be one of the cheapest options so far I found but I could not find real user reviews except UA-camrs
Excellent video, as usual Cornelius! Does xTool sponsor your videos? They should!
Thank you for the comment my friend! They do not, but that would be a good idea!
Great Video Man...
A Request Please - Can you do one on engraving stone (not slate)
Looks like you're using it inside, what kind of air purifier are you using?
Hı great video i want to learn that can we cut brass plates max 0.5mm thick?
I just purchased an xTool....so excited !!! QUESTION: CAN YOU USE THE LASER TO TRANSFER IMAGE AN ONTO WOOD FOR THE PURPOSE OF DREMEL CARVING IT??? This so you don't have to use graphite paper and any other method to transfer it onto the wood
So excited to hear this! You will LOVE IT! You sure can! And believe me.. it makes your life EASIER! I will be doing that this week!
I used my IR module a lot now, and i do like the results, perfekt details always, but, it´s to slow for anything else than one off things. Larger pieces than small jewelry takes forever. As a complement for those occasions you do one or a few small metal pieces other than stainless, yes, anything else you do need to jack up to a fibre laser.
Galvo lasers like the xTool F1 seem to have similar lasers but are faster for some reason. Also expensive
Thanks for the Video. Question my friend:
Can I use Aerosol Black Laser Ink on aluminium and get black mark using xTool Infrared 1064nm module?
Hello, ever marked blackened stainless steel with this laser? I haven't found the best settings.
Do you have links to the jewelry blanks or supplies?
I am looking for this kind of thing. Thank you very much. If it is really useful I want it
Glad it was helpful!
Can we engrave photo on metal?
I need one for my 3018, hopefully they will drop in price as volume goes up.
Have me a nice little 3018.. i was gonna extend it for the 65$ but decided to grab a atezr v35 plus.. this thing is amazing and worth every penny.. ive done all kinds of material even glass!.. check it out
@@theman-pc2ej I was installing the extension bed today, putting it back in when I noticed the 2 support rods are on a different spacing. Grr, took me ages to line up those T nuts that join the bed extrusions to the MDF. Turns out there are a few 3040 extension kits just like there are a few 3018. Nice laser, might have to upgrade, the 3018 was a nice toy to learn on but......
@babbagebrassworks4278 yea i still love my 3018.. came with a router originally but i upgraded to the laser and never went back. New one runs just the same for the most part but has two rotory things that make it even better..
Hello, I only want to engrave onto stainless steel. Would the normal laser do this or would i need a IR module? Thank you
The diode laser can do stainless, any other metal the IR is needed.
@@leffep Thanks. Yes i ended up buying one of the 3plasers 30w fibre
Is framing difficult with the ir compared to the f1?
Please reply, I have d1 pro 20w. To install d1pro 1064 do I only need the laser module or a complete new equipment? please can someone explain to me
If it is the newest D1 Pro it should be a simple swap to the IR module.
@@CorneliusCreations thank you sir, i am your new subscriptor
Hi.
Is it possible to engrave chromium with the xtool IR?
Have you tried to etch photos of people, animals, etc on metal?
would this infrared module mount on any other gantry frame/ why would it have to be Xtool frame?
Prolly dont have to be xtool frame.. xtool is ok but ive seen better built setups for cheaper..
Link to buy
Slow down the speed a little. Then it will be even better.
Im sending mine back focusing is a nightmare with this wasted loads of material and guess work to even get close and very slow. wished there was an easier way of focusing ..
My focusing arm is inaccurate too -- about 1.25 mm off. So I spent some time figuring out the correct focusing distance and then I 3d printed a block that I could put between the material and the lens of the laser and I use that for focusing.... it works great. I have also added the Z-axis height adjuster from AlivePixelCreates to my D1 Pro which allows me to fine tune the focus easily.
@@michaelwheatley5627 I sent my one back bought the f1. So much better 😃
X Tool has a lot of sales. Keep alert. I got my infrared module for 399.00.
Same here.
That's all it cost?? Wow, will it work on rocks?
Even the 10W watts can do rocks, same with slate, which is just another rock.
Will it engrave aluminum
Yes, bare aluminum.
I'm thinking about this for glock guns frames think it would be ok?
I haven’t tested this on any coated metal. Glock definitely has some crazy thick coating. Most people will use a Fiber laser for that type of stuff.
I mean for plastic
@@highspeed9518 if you plan on “stippling” I would skip the IR and use the 10w or 20w
Wouldn't this be marking? Not engraving
can you attach to m1?
You cannot :(
A blue diode laser will doo all this also so i dont see why youd buy a 600$ add on.. unless the original xtool laser just sucks.. xtool is so over priced!..
What's a good laser that can etch metals ? That isn't over priced ?
@@LazyReacts i got the atezr v35... awesome machine!.. just do a little research and find one that fits you and your needs.
@@LazyReacts i got the atezr v35... awesome machine!.. just do a little research and find one that fits you and your needs.
@@LazyReacts Along with the Longer B1 30 watt, I bought their 1064nm Ruby laser with a smaller .03MM x .03MM beam at ONLY 400 bucks. It blows x-tools IR laser out of the water....
Engrave a hot wheels car please 🙏🏾.
How to? Re-name to watch me engrave different materials.
Good info, BUT, at ~ 3:30 you need to take a class on the proper use of a caliper. Try to always measure the item in the Flat portion of the caliper and have the object not on edge, (not perpendicular , but parallel). The reading you got was nowhere near the widest portion of the ring's diameter. FYI feedback to help you measure better.... Just say'in....