Thanks to you and this 70hp series of videos I was able to get my son's buddies 1983 70hp Evinrude running again. The boy bought the boat the seller stated it had a 20gal fuel tank (on board) but was empty and the boy could only get 13gal of gas in it then proceed to put it on Lake Erie and couldn't get it started. The boat arrived to me and after I pulled a fuel sample I found 7gal of water in the 20gal on board tank, drained the tank pulled it out and flushed the entire system. Had it idling good on muffs he took it back out it ran 20mins. died and wouldn't restart. Back to me it comes, found corrosion in 2 of the 3 carbs so I pulled all 3 carbs and completely disassembled, cleaned and rebuilt with new OEM carb kits. Had it idling good on muffs again he puts it in the water and it won't even fire so back to me again. This time I find a fuel line from the pump to the tee and the one from the tee to the bottom carb leaking fuel and the cam linkage adjustments all out of whack, replaced all the fuel lines from the stern fitting to all the carbs including the primers. Spent about 1hr tuning everything up setting the idle using a tach and timming light, We get it on the water and I set high speed to specs and now she runs like a Raped Ape pushing a 1983 All Aluminum 18ft Starcraft with gear and 4 people on board to a max of 25mph on phone app. Now the boy couldn't be happier. Thanks for all the videos. :)
i had gotten a boat with my father, it had an internal tank an about like you say 5 gallons of water in it lol we never could get it right so we just emptyed it an just use a external tank.
Hey. Thank You ! And I need you down here! On the double! Hahaha! You should have done some videos! Or did you? Sweeeet, sounds good! I wish I was there, could've learned few things. Thanks again for tuning in!
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 only done video of the final test run, nothing posted on the net. This one tried me to the extrems, I'm only use to the smaller stuff that you can test run in a 55gal drum :)
Glad you found the culprit! I’ve had bad fuel hoses mess me up a few times over the years. Now every few years I just change em all. I don’t think they last as long as they used to thanks to the lovely ethanol gasoline we’re forced to buy!
I ordered 2 gaskets and a fuel pump diaphragm for the 1957 mercury and they said it would be 15 days from Crowley in Denver Colorado. Crap, i can make them in 5 minutes if I had the material. Actually I do have the fuel gasket material but not diaphragm material. I'll check to see how much that is and the right thickness?
Yeah. Somebody told me they've been waiting for over two weeks for the same grommet I ordered. Glad I got the heads up. I rarely use them but the last time I did it was super fast. Thanks again !
I had to put thermostats in my 1984 115 Evinrude those bolts on the side are a bugger to get out then that plastic gap pice had a crack in it so I JB welded it held all summer so far thanks for the videos
Yep, 15 days for my parts from Crowley to get here😯 Anyway the big motor sounds great. Link and Sync is easy following the service manual. Testing it though WOT can only be done in the lake or in a good test tank like Kodi has. Also tuning the carbs like you said can only be done with a tachometer with multi carbs on a 2 stroke motor. Have it set right they will purr👍
Hey man....Just a word on the stiff steering. Once again, I'm in salt water. I've had that happen many times. Yes, grease the teleflex cable and the steering wheel...but what I've also found is if water gets in under the cowling...even if you washed your engine...the water will get into the shaft down the motor and start to freeze it up. Now I'm sure you know there's some Zerk fittings on that shaft, but I've learned to spray some really good penetrating oil under the cowling where that shaft comes up and just let it sit for ever! That will loosen that bad boy up even better! Cheers! Time for another cold one!
I got a 79 motor 70 hp on a 87 center leg and lower did all my self ran ground and split over leg lol. New side exhaust gaskets carbs redone. Runs in salt all it's life. 35 36 on a 18 rinker bowrider. Li ny great south bay I know this top to bottom lmk if u got questions
Aaahhh yes those small cracks in rubber gas line are hard to see sometime, love the videos thanks for the links for parts I will have to save some more dimes to get that bracket. Keep the videos coming keep it real .
Hello: I have this concern as my 1992 Evinrude 70 HP E70ELEND engine shuts off when pulling in reverse it also shuts down sometimes when I turn the tiller left or right. I look forward to your usual attention. Thank you.
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. Sounds like a wiring issue. Check every wire and connections, could be pinched somewhere, or a ground wire not having a good connection. That's where I would start. Thanks again !
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. The top one is the stop screw for WOT , the bottom is the stop screw for Idle. Don't mess with them unless you know how to set them. Your best bet is to get an OMC service manual specific to your year and model. Try Ebay for a good used one. It will tell you how to link & sync your outboard, it will save you time and it will have a great troubleshooting section too! Thanks again & Stay tuned !
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. Like any other outboard I start by lifting the fast start/warm up lever on the control box. Then push the key in to activate the primer and turn it to crank the motor over, meanwhile holding the key in until it pops. If it pops but doesn't start I'll turn the key and just bump the primer until it starts. Don't wanna bump it to much because it may be flooding out the plugs. If everything is set properly like on my 92 60/70 hp Johnson it should fire right up with the initial push on the key primer but sometimes you gotta fool with it. Some motors are a little finicky and some aren't. My 92 was giving me problems for awhile but with some routine maintenance I managed to straighten it out. She fires right up again like she use to. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
@@leenapper255 all the way. once your link n sync is set up properly it shouldn't be a problem, all its doing is opening the carbs butterflies a little bit to get a fast idle for warm up
Hey brother i need help where are you in fl? I have a 1973 jonson sea horse 50 hp i canot find any video how to replace upper rubber mount can you help me?
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. I'm in Orlando. Watch my video on my 79 55hp Evinrude. Its called, 1979 Evinrude 55 Hp Tear Down Continued. I just posted it july 3rd. I'm working on it now. You'll have to tear it down if its like mine. Check out the video, It's not an instructional video but it should give you an idea of whats going on. let me know. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
Hey Thanks. It wasn't the plan to use any of that video except the 70 johnson stuff but when my parts didn't get here an the wrong part did, I still couldn't get the 40 back together. So I figured I better put something up. Hahaha Thanks again for tuning in!
I did the vro pump delete with the standard fuel pump like done on this motor, I seen that you didn’t block the pulse hole on the back of the pump. are you not supposed to?
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. If I remember correctly it was blocked with a piece of thick plastic. Then I took it off and added a pump gasket, then I tried it without it being blocked and it worked. I guess with that style pump the pulse hole in the back is closed. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 another question regarding your weak spark video on this motor, i have a similar issue. motor will start and run fine and will run good wide open. but if u sit and idle for a period of time it will cut off and want fire back up. When this happens i test for spark and i’m getting nothing but one zap then nothing. let it sit then fires right up
Thanks for the video. Please can you tell me the cause of the problem. I removed the battery terminal while the engine was running. The alarm on throttle controls started beeping and since then, it has not gone off. In the beginning, while I was not touching anything, when I make contact, it beeps briefly and goes out. I start the engine and don't whistle anymore. 1984. Evinrude 60 PS Please can you tell me the problem. Where the problem arose. Thank you very much in advance for your reply.
Hey Elvis. Thanks for tuning in. The alarm goes off from the heat sensor, overheating, and the vro, low oil or bad unit, if you have one. And it could also be shorting out somewhere. Check your wiring harness, it sounds like a wire may be grounding out, look for the tan wires, one should be coming from the heat sensor on the engine head. There may be two tan wires coming from the harness. That happened to me with my 87 40 hp the tan wire was touching the engine block that went to the vro before it was removed, and grounding out making the alarm go off. You probably need to find a wiring schematic. You may also have to take the controls apart if the problem is in the box. If you cant find any shorts, disconnect the heat sensor wire and see if it goes off then the vro. Curious to know what you find out. Thanks !
I’ve got the same motor and I’m having a issue with it not wanting to start after sitting for a couple days then after trying to crank for about 30 minutes it’ll start up then this past weekend I could get it to crank at all any ideas on this issue
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. I don't know what all you've checked on it, or if you just got it, or what, but I would just go back to basics. It's either fuel or ignition. Is it getting fuel/spark to the plugs? After cranking/priming it, pull the plugs, are they wet or dry? Too wet, to much fuel, flooding it out. Check the primer solenoid, may be leaking. Is the red handle in the correct position, if the red handle is pointing down it will flood it out. Clean/check carbs, needle not seating, all it takes is one carb to throw everything off. Too dry, not enough fuel, primer not priming, air leak in fuel line or somewhere, carbs need cleaned. Synchronize the carbs and check the throttle linkage, link and sync. Once you've eliminated the fuel system and there's still a problem check ignition. Throw some new plugs in it, test for good strong spark with a spark tester. It probably wouldn't hurt to check compression too. If its an ignition problem there's not much more you can do without a manual for that model to check ignition components. Check ebay for a good used manual for that model, usually around $30. Hopefully it's something simple. Here's a like that may help over on Brandons Garage channel. ua-cam.com/video/uJTx-ygU23U/v-deo.html. Curious to know what you find out. Thanks again !
Hey. Thanks for watching and commenting. It's not missing, I just haven't shown it until this video and the grommet I ordered for it was the wrong size. Hahaha are we watching the same video? Hahaha dont make me think that hard! Haha Thanks again & Stay tuned !
Hey great video again. It's not rocket science but it could be!!! Love it. I have the exact same motor. The cam pick up from the carbs is below the line. Everywhere I have read says the roller should be right in the middle of the line on the cam. Can this create problems. The boat is a little under powered. Idles perfectly. :)
Hey. Thanks. When you adjust the cam dont let it move the roller/follower. The carbs should stay closed, but a lot of times these older motors don't want go by the manual anymore. Hahaha. If that makes sense. On this motor I had to turn the idle screw really far in for it to run. Your probably under powered because the cam is set to high and its throwing the timing off and not opening your carbs to full throttle. Check the roll pins on the carbs butterfly shaft, on the side of the carbs. They should be horizontal when you push the throttle handle to WOT. Go to Brandons Garage channel, he has a video made by OMC that shows you the procedures to set up the link & sync for this year/model. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
I ordered a ignition charging coil and stop switch assembly and it was insock then got email that they are waiting on manufacturer its just bs.........
Well i see you tried the reverse wire on the pump and it seems i was wrong !! But iam sticking with my story even through i saw your demonstration myself. another thing if it did run the other way it would NOT suck water in to the boat the exit line is above the water line not below it. i have a little rule pump sitting write here that runs either. But it pumps twice as much water if it pumps it the correct direction way.
Hahaha Oh that was you that said that, I couldn't remember who it was. I really had no plans to use that video or really any of it, except the 70 johnson stuff but when my parts didn't come in I was scrounging around for something to put up. I knew they didn't run backwards cause I've hooked them up backwards before by mistake. But it is true, most DC motors will run backwards if you reverse the wires. I dont know how they get around it with these things though. Thanks again for tuning in!
Yeah that motor has been hell but runs like no other when it's ready. I've got a question about my 73 20hp Johnson. I've converted it to an electric start. Sometimes when I try to start it the starter gear smacks the flywheel and is driving me crazy. Do I need to change the gear or do I need a whole new starter. Like you said I got it on eBay and not sure it's the right 1. Thanks
Hey. I'm not sure what you mean. If the gears aren't matching you can change the starter gear. I dont remember offhand how many teeth it should have so you'll have to check that. ok the 1974 25hp pinion gear shows 11 teeth and very expensive but they're on ebay used for about $25, but the 73 20hp and 74 25hp have different part #'s on the flywheel but I think the same amount of teeth. I don't remember ever having to swap the flywheels. Thanks again ! www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1974&hp=25&model=25452M&manufacturer=Evinrude§ion=Electric+Starter+And+Solenoid
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 I've checked the amount of teeth and it's 11. Anyway what happens is when I press the button to start. Sometimes, not every time. The gear seems to hit the flywheel so the teeth don't line up and makes a loud clank. Appears to be the right starter. Is there a spacer or something I'm missing. Is there a way to have it on wrong. Just don't seem to get it. Thanks for trying to help me out anyway
70 hp put in a water separater so you can see glass for water in it. Bilge pump should be connected with a annode for corrosion control. There is so many dissimilar metals in your boat. So throw the copper idea out the window. I am in Apopka any help you need like syn nlink or reading fuel line pressure I would be glad to help
Hey I have been a fan and follower of TOO for about a year now. Was wondering where you were out of. I have several old outboard motors I would like to get worked on . I am willing to travel. I live on the east coast. PS. My old outboards are mostly johnson/evinrude
Hey. Thanks. I'm in Orlando. I don't usually take on other projects cause I barely have time to get my stuff done. But every once in a while I try to help out. Like this 82 25hp Johnson I'm checking out for a guy who watches and lives here in Orlando. Stay tuned for that! Thanks again !
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. I don't know the part number. Schematic doesn't show a this type of fuel pump it only shows the vro/pump setup. It's pretty standard though. It has to have the extra connection for the vacuum line plus the fuel in/out connections. Thanks again !
@@natetate2795 You probably have the right one but you have to plug the pulse hole in the back in order to use the hose connection for pulse/vacuum and vice versa.
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 thanks man for replying I just picked up a 89 70 evinrude and did compression test got 110 on top 95 in middle and 105 on bottom still fires right up and runs good think I should be worried
I’ve towed many boats back that look like this one lol, the outboard is worth more than the boat not to be mean or anything my best friends boat isn’t much better.
Hahaha I know what you mean, But! Thats one hell of a boat! Hahaha As many times as it's been sunk and it's still floating! I don't know what brand it is but I'd buy one! Hahaha Thanks again !
An article I read said its when you add different types of wire together that causes the problem. And somebody before I came along added that piece of copper wire to hook up the fish finder so I've been running off of it. Next time I'll know better and you know there's gonna be a next time! Hahaha Thanks a!
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 hey brother sorry I just came out of the blue like that lol. I love your videos and believe it or not you’ve helped me a lot in the past.
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 so I got this 99 Johnson ois pain the butt right? Lol. To make story short. Broken diaphragm in the vro pump (fuel). Got a rebuilt kit and did so also replaced coils and power pack. Ran beautiful after that. Now for some reason it won’t start even with a fully charged battery sounds like it tries to but it won’t. A day before this happened I noticed the primer bulb wasn’t getting hard and still managed to get it started. So I replaced the bulb now gets hard but it won’t start . So I’ll be doing some looking around today weather permitting here in the sunshine state lol. Any suggestions? tips? Thanks.
That's the best i have heard that 70 run I have the same motor in much better condition i to love it and it pushes my 17ft Lowe with two of the biggest everstart batteries they make 18 gal of gas trolling motor tackle cooler and my 250lb fat ass like a rocket ship.
its them big huge props they have lol i swear it is, then the fact that they turn like 7k rpm, yea there good motors ide rather one of these then a merc of the same year.
OK, guilty of trying to skim through this again...But, you are confusing me...Did the timer base get disconnected? Those plastic connectors are pretty flimsy. " Trying to adjust it to run as slow as possible with the warm up level raised"??? That doesn't make any sense... Maybe I am missing something, am trying to follow but you are losing me buddy. Sorry, but you really have to follow the OMC manual steps in order to get this set up properly...You can't start in the middle of the process, there is much more to the sync on this 3 carb engine than the basic set up on the single carb models...You have got the idle timing/speed screw turned in way too far.... Sorry, wish I was there. It's not rocket science like you say, but the steps must all be performed in order..... Trying to use some generic service manual will only cause confusion, they try to cover many different models, so they leave stuff out and just confuse...The proper OMC manual is a must for syncing this engine... All that being said, seems to start and run OK now, except for the high idle....The blown open fuel pump pulse line wouldn't have made it hard starting, because you build up pressure with the primer bulb. But, it surely won't have quit after a few seconds because the fuel pump wasn't working.... What "grommet" did you replace?? Are you talking about the plastic timer base linkage connector?? D
Hey. No it didnt really disconnect until I broke it. Hahaha, Yeah it was barely hanging on. Adjusting it with the warm up lever up to run slow wont make sense to you but it makes sense to me. It was really all about the cable and the amount of play it has in it. I was able to finally get it where it works best. Yes I know the Idle screw is in to far, since it overheated it never wanted to run at the original settings and I've spent way to much time on it already trying to find out why. I have the correct steps/procedure for that motor, and throttle cam #431707, with one pickup mark. Plus I have no tach or piston stop tool. But I did try and improvise with no luck. It just didn't want to run at those settings. You can still see the discoloration on the idle screw from where its been set for years and where it was before it overheated. Now, I can back it out, but if I go back to the original spot on the idle screw the timer base goes to far back and it dosent like to run there. I went through all 6 procedures and stopped at #7. I didn't think the maximum spark advance had changed. Now if you can tell me why it dosent want to run at those setting I'd be a happy man. And I have the OMC manual. And it is idling a little high due to tightening the throttle cam lock nut. It pushed the cam a bit to far and is touching the roller. Like I said, these settings were just a basic way to get this thing running, they're not exact to the manual. So if a person dosent have a tach or timing light there is hope! Hahaha. Yeah it was the plastic timer base linkage connector. After I replaced the switches and got it running the last time it was hard to start, Seemed like it was flooding but it actually wasnt getting any gas to the plugs. Then once it finally started it seemed fine. The owner told me he went down and started it and it fired right up. A few days later he said he couldn't get it started and thought he flooded it and thats where this video comes in. Anyway tell what you think. I gotta get off this computer, all day putting this video together and my eyeballs are about to fall out! Thanks again !
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 OK, well the powerhead was probably damaged internally during the overheat, which is why it won't run well at its older/original settings. Don't get me wrong, sometimes we have to alter book/optimal settings when the engine gets older/worn. The point I am trying to make is that each step can affect a previous step...So, the steps need to be performed in order, or you can mess up settings you made previously and create more confusion. Not to worry, nothing you have done will affect WOT timing, unless you actually moved it in or out without checking with the timing light. I'm sure it is just words that are causing my confusion, it is hard when I am not right there with you so I can understand what you are really meaning. So you are saying that the engine is idling high because the cam is touching the roller holding the carbs open slightly? If so, don't be afraid to leave a bit more of a gap between the cam/roller, better off that way than having the butterflies open slightly. Don't forget what I mentioned awhile back....The original idle air bleeds for this engine were .033". The recommendation has been changed to replacing them with .029" air bleeds. So, perhaps this engine won't idle at the prescribed settings, perhaps it is a bit too lean. The smaller air bleeds will help. The air bleeds can be removed and inspected easily without any carb disassembly. The number will be stamped on the jet/air bleed, although it is tough for our old eyes to see, will need a magnifying glass...
@@fleetwin1 Hey. Yeah, I was going to do a follow up video so it would be a bit more understandable. But I've changed my mind. I did back it off the roller so its not touching again. It idles fine and still runs like a rocket. I went through the L/S sequence numerous times and I mean numerous, from the manual and this video, ua-cam.com/video/uJTx-ygU23U/v-deo.html. If you watch this video there really isnt much difference where the idle screw position is between the two motors and others I've seen. But if you go back to the earlier videos I did when I first started working on it you can see the difference. It drove me crazy trying to get it back to where it was at. I can get it close with adjusting the cable but its still different than it was. Anyway. It starts, it idles and still runs pretty good. The owner can go fishing again!
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 The main take away is that the steps must be performed in order, and that if you go back and change something later, you have changed other adjustments by doing so, so the whole procedure must be checked/done over again. I would add that it is important to remove the air box cover and actually look inside at the throttle plates to make sure they are fully closed and that they start to open at the same time. Putting pressure on those throttle arms to remove the slop can oftentimes "preload" them open just slightly. This is especially true on older engines that have some wear on the throttle shafts and throttle plates....You can not make the assumption that the throttle plates are actually closed by "snapping the throttle valves", worn throttle shafts/bodies/throttle plates can jam and not actually be completely closed. Trying to adjust the "slop" out of older engines is very tricky, you have to avoid inadvertently preloading those throttle plates open slightly....The only real way to check your work is to remove the air box cover and have a look inside each carb throat. Glad it is starting and working OK now, don't forget to check the size of those idle air bleeds....
Thanks to you and this 70hp series of videos I was able to get my son's buddies 1983 70hp Evinrude running again.
The boy bought the boat the seller stated it had a 20gal fuel tank
(on board) but was empty and the boy could only get 13gal of gas in it then proceed to put it on Lake Erie and couldn't get it started.
The boat arrived to me and after I pulled a fuel sample I found 7gal of water in the 20gal on board tank, drained the tank pulled it out and flushed the entire system. Had it idling good on muffs he took it back out it ran 20mins. died and wouldn't restart. Back to me it comes, found corrosion in 2 of the 3 carbs so I pulled all 3 carbs and completely disassembled, cleaned and rebuilt with new OEM carb kits. Had it idling good on muffs again he puts it in the water and it won't even fire so back to me again.
This time I find a fuel line from the pump to the tee and the one from the tee to the bottom carb leaking fuel and the cam linkage adjustments all out of whack, replaced all the fuel lines from the stern fitting to all the carbs including the primers. Spent about 1hr tuning everything up setting the idle using a tach and timming light, We get it on the water and I set high speed to specs and now she runs like a Raped Ape pushing a 1983 All Aluminum 18ft Starcraft with gear and 4 people on board to a max of 25mph on phone app.
Now the boy couldn't be happier.
Thanks for all the videos. :)
i had gotten a boat with my father, it had an internal tank an about like you say 5 gallons of water in it lol we never could get it right so we just emptyed it an just use a external tank.
Hey. Thank You ! And I need you down here! On the double! Hahaha! You should have done some videos! Or did you? Sweeeet, sounds good! I wish I was there, could've learned few things. Thanks again for tuning in!
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 only done video of the final test run, nothing posted on the net.
This one tried me to the extrems, I'm only use to the smaller stuff that you can test run in a 55gal drum :)
@@craigtimmons3468 Me too!
i know I am kinda randomly asking but do anybody know of a good website to stream newly released tv shows online ?
Glad you found the culprit! I’ve had bad fuel hoses mess me up a few times over the years. Now every few years I just change em all. I don’t think they last as long as they used to thanks to the lovely ethanol gasoline we’re forced to buy!
Yeah. Thats the best way to go. Thanks again !
Good breakdown video 🍻
Hey. Thanks for tuning in!
I ordered 2 gaskets and a fuel pump diaphragm for the 1957 mercury and they said it would be 15 days from Crowley in Denver Colorado. Crap, i can make them in 5 minutes if I had the material. Actually I do have the fuel gasket material but not diaphragm material. I'll check to see how much that is and the right thickness?
Yeah. Somebody told me they've been waiting for over two weeks for the same grommet I ordered. Glad I got the heads up. I rarely use them but the last time I did it was super fast. Thanks again !
I had to put thermostats in my 1984 115 Evinrude those bolts on the side are a bugger to get out then that plastic gap pice had a crack in it so I JB welded it held all summer so far thanks for the videos
Hey. Thanks for tuning in!
Yep, 15 days for my parts from Crowley to get here😯 Anyway the big motor sounds great. Link and Sync is easy following the service manual. Testing it though WOT can only be done in the lake or in a good test tank like Kodi has. Also tuning the carbs like you said can only be done with a tachometer with multi carbs on a 2 stroke motor. Have it set right they will purr👍
I wonder whats going on with Crowley. Oh well. Thanks again for watching and commenting. Stay tuned !
Hey man....Just a word on the stiff steering. Once again, I'm in salt water. I've had that happen many times. Yes, grease the teleflex cable and the steering wheel...but what I've also found is if water gets in under the cowling...even if you washed your engine...the water will get into the shaft down the motor and start to freeze it up. Now I'm sure you know there's some Zerk fittings on that shaft, but I've learned to spray some really good penetrating oil under the cowling where that shaft comes up and just let it sit for ever! That will loosen that bad boy up even better! Cheers! Time for another cold one!
Hey. I'll give it a shot. Thanks again !
I got a 79 motor 70 hp on a 87 center leg and lower did all my self ran ground and split over leg lol. New side exhaust gaskets carbs redone. Runs in salt all it's life. 35 36 on a 18 rinker bowrider. Li ny great south bay I know this top to bottom lmk if u got questions
Hey. Thanks again I appreciate that!
Aaahhh yes those small cracks in rubber gas line are hard to see sometime, love the videos thanks for the links for parts I will have to save some more dimes to get that bracket. Keep the videos coming keep it real .
Thanks again !
I buy O.E.M. parts when ever I can for my motors. Aftermarket Chinese parts just don't fit the same or last as long for the few dollars in savings.
Yes! I've had more problems with aftermarket parts.
Yep. Thats the best way to go! Thanks again for tuning in!
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 The weather this whole week, SUCKS!
@@AmericanConstellation Yeah. And another one coming straight up the gulf for next week
its coming this week!
Hello: I have this concern as my 1992 Evinrude 70 HP E70ELEND engine shuts off when pulling in reverse it also shuts down sometimes when I turn the tiller left or right. I look forward to your usual attention. Thank you.
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. Sounds like a wiring issue. Check every wire and connections, could be pinched somewhere, or a ground wire not having a good connection. That's where I would start. Thanks again !
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1Thanks! Another question What is the part number of the fuel pump of the (e70elend) Evinrude 70 HP 1992
@@juancaraballo marineengine.com! look up year & model. Every part number you'll ever need!
My 60 h.p is the same wat does the 2 stop screws do bottom and top on the back levers where cable hooks up
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. The top one is the stop screw for WOT , the bottom is the stop screw for Idle. Don't mess with them unless you know how to set them. Your best bet is to get an OMC service manual specific to your year and model. Try Ebay for a good used one. It will tell you how to link & sync your outboard, it will save you time and it will have a great troubleshooting section too! Thanks again & Stay tuned !
That deck and transom on that old bass boat are probably rotted into oblivion
Probably ! Hahaha Thanks for watching and commenting! Stay tuned !
What is your cold start procedure step by step on this engine?
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. Like any other outboard I start by lifting the fast start/warm up lever on the control box. Then push the key in to activate the primer and turn it to crank the motor over, meanwhile holding the key in until it pops. If it pops but doesn't start I'll turn the key and just bump the primer until it starts. Don't wanna bump it to much because it may be flooding out the plugs. If everything is set properly like on my 92 60/70 hp Johnson it should fire right up with the initial push on the key primer but sometimes you gotta fool with it. Some motors are a little finicky and some aren't. My 92 was giving me problems for awhile but with some routine maintenance I managed to straighten it out. She fires right up again like she use to. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 thanks sir. Our 95 70hp Evinrude takes hours of fooling with it to start. How far up do you lift the idle lever?
@@leenapper255 all the way. once your link n sync is set up properly it shouldn't be a problem, all its doing is opening the carbs butterflies a little bit to get a fast idle for warm up
Hey brother i need help where are you in fl?
I have a 1973 jonson sea horse 50 hp i canot find any video how to replace upper rubber mount can you help me?
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. I'm in Orlando. Watch my video on my 79 55hp Evinrude. Its called, 1979 Evinrude 55 Hp Tear Down Continued. I just posted it july 3rd. I'm working on it now. You'll have to tear it down if its like mine. Check out the video, It's not an instructional video but it should give you an idea of whats going on. let me know. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
Does this valve fit the Evinrude 70hp 1981 - 3 cylinders? J0002879
Hey. I'm m=not sure check the schematic for your year/model at marineengine.com. Thanks
Another fine video glad you're putting them out rain rain
Hey Thanks. It wasn't the plan to use any of that video except the 70 johnson stuff but when my parts didn't get here an the wrong part did, I still couldn't get the 40 back together. So I figured I better put something up. Hahaha Thanks again for tuning in!
I did the vro pump delete with the standard fuel pump like done on this motor, I seen that you didn’t block the pulse hole on the back of the pump. are you not supposed to?
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. If I remember correctly it was blocked with a piece of thick plastic. Then I took it off and added a pump gasket, then I tried it without it being blocked and it worked. I guess with that style pump the pulse hole in the back is closed. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
okay thanks for the reply, i’ve tried it both ways it seems to pump both ways i’m no sure
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 another question regarding your weak spark video on this motor, i have a similar issue. motor will start and run fine and will run good wide open. but if u sit and idle for a period of time it will cut off and want fire back up. When this happens i test for spark and i’m getting nothing but one zap then nothing. let it sit then fires right up
I’m thinking it’s the power pack I order a new one supposed to come thursday. Just wanting your opinion on it
@@jruss02 that sounds typical of ignition parts. as they warm up they will break down especially with coils. they will test fine when cold
Shopping on line just sucks some times be better if you could just go to a marina. But probably the marina would not have the part.
Probably !
Thanks for the video. Please can you tell me the cause of the problem. I removed the battery terminal while the engine was running. The alarm on throttle controls started beeping and since then, it has not gone off. In the beginning, while I was not touching anything, when I make contact, it beeps briefly and goes out. I start the engine and don't whistle anymore. 1984. Evinrude 60 PS Please can you tell me the problem. Where the problem arose. Thank you very much in advance for your reply.
Hey Elvis. Thanks for tuning in. The alarm goes off from the heat sensor, overheating, and the vro, low oil or bad unit, if you have one. And it could also be shorting out somewhere. Check your wiring harness, it sounds like a wire may be grounding out, look for the tan wires, one should be coming from the heat sensor on the engine head. There may be two tan wires coming from the harness. That happened to me with my 87 40 hp the tan wire was touching the engine block that went to the vro before it was removed, and grounding out making the alarm go off. You probably need to find a wiring schematic. You may also have to take the controls apart if the problem is in the box. If you cant find any shorts, disconnect the heat sensor wire and see if it goes off then the vro. Curious to know what you find out. Thanks !
I’ve got the same motor and I’m having a issue with it not wanting to start after sitting for a couple days then after trying to crank for about 30 minutes it’ll start up then this past weekend I could get it to crank at all any ideas on this issue
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. I don't know what all you've checked on it, or if you just got it, or what, but I would just go back to basics. It's either fuel or ignition. Is it getting fuel/spark to the plugs? After cranking/priming it, pull the plugs, are they wet or dry? Too wet, to much fuel, flooding it out. Check the primer solenoid, may be leaking. Is the red handle in the correct position, if the red handle is pointing down it will flood it out. Clean/check carbs, needle not seating, all it takes is one carb to throw everything off. Too dry, not enough fuel, primer not priming, air leak in fuel line or somewhere, carbs need cleaned. Synchronize the carbs and check the throttle linkage, link and sync. Once you've eliminated the fuel system and there's still a problem check ignition. Throw some new plugs in it, test for good strong spark with a spark tester. It probably wouldn't hurt to check compression too. If its an ignition problem there's not much more you can do without a manual for that model to check ignition components. Check ebay for a good used manual for that model, usually around $30. Hopefully it's something simple. Here's a like that may help over on Brandons Garage channel. ua-cam.com/video/uJTx-ygU23U/v-deo.html. Curious to know what you find out. Thanks again !
Your pressure relief valve and spring are missing, so cooling water is bypassing the thermostat.
Hey. Thanks for watching and commenting. It's not missing, I just haven't shown it until this video and the grommet I ordered for it was the wrong size. Hahaha are we watching the same video? Hahaha dont make me think that hard! Haha Thanks again & Stay tuned !
Hey great video again. It's not rocket science but it could be!!! Love it. I have the exact same motor. The cam pick up from the carbs is below the line. Everywhere I have read says the roller should be right in the middle of the line on the cam. Can this create problems. The boat is a little under powered. Idles perfectly. :)
Hey. Thanks. When you adjust the cam dont let it move the roller/follower. The carbs should stay closed, but a lot of times these older motors don't want go by the manual anymore. Hahaha. If that makes sense. On this motor I had to turn the idle screw really far in for it to run. Your probably under powered because the cam is set to high and its throwing the timing off and not opening your carbs to full throttle. Check the roll pins on the carbs butterfly shaft, on the side of the carbs. They should be horizontal when you push the throttle handle to WOT. Go to Brandons Garage channel, he has a video made by OMC that shows you the procedures to set up the link & sync for this year/model. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
I ordered a ignition charging coil and stop switch assembly and it was insock then got email that they are waiting on manufacturer its just bs.........
Yep. BS!
Well i see you tried the reverse wire on the pump and it seems i was wrong !! But iam sticking with my story even through i saw your demonstration myself. another thing if it did run the other way it would NOT suck water in to the boat the exit line is above the water line not below it. i have a little rule pump sitting write here that runs either. But it pumps twice as much water if it pumps it the correct direction way.
Hahaha Oh that was you that said that, I couldn't remember who it was. I really had no plans to use that video or really any of it, except the 70 johnson stuff but when my parts didn't come in I was scrounging around for something to put up. I knew they didn't run backwards cause I've hooked them up backwards before by mistake. But it is true, most DC motors will run backwards if you reverse the wires. I dont know how they get around it with these things though. Thanks again for tuning in!
Yeah that motor has been hell but runs like no other when it's ready. I've got a question about my 73 20hp Johnson. I've converted it to an electric start. Sometimes when I try to start it the starter gear smacks the flywheel and is driving me crazy. Do I need to change the gear or do I need a whole new starter. Like you said I got it on eBay and not sure it's the right 1. Thanks
Hey. I'm not sure what you mean. If the gears aren't matching you can change the starter gear. I dont remember offhand how many teeth it should have so you'll have to check that. ok the 1974 25hp pinion gear shows 11 teeth and very expensive but they're on ebay used for about $25, but the 73 20hp and 74 25hp have different part #'s on the flywheel but I think the same amount of teeth. I don't remember ever having to swap the flywheels. Thanks again ! www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1974&hp=25&model=25452M&manufacturer=Evinrude§ion=Electric+Starter+And+Solenoid
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 I've checked the amount of teeth and it's 11. Anyway what happens is when I press the button to start. Sometimes, not every time. The gear seems to hit the flywheel so the teeth don't line up and makes a loud clank. Appears to be the right starter. Is there a spacer or something I'm missing. Is there a way to have it on wrong. Just don't seem to get it. Thanks for trying to help me out anyway
@@garysample1980 Thats weird. Maybe the mount is slightly bent . ?
70 hp put in a water separater so you can see glass for water in it.
Bilge pump should be connected with a annode for corrosion control. There is so many dissimilar metals in your boat. So throw the copper idea out the window.
I am in Apopka any help you need like syn nlink or reading fuel line pressure I would be glad to help
Hey. Thanks again. Really appreciate it. Stay tuned !
Hey having trouble with syn and link with my Johnson 70. Can you help?
that particular part number between johnson / evinrude / omc had lots of different revisions.
Hey. What's up? Yeah I found that out! Thanks again for tuning in!
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 yvw.
Hey I have been a fan and follower of TOO for about a year now. Was wondering where you were out of. I have several old outboard motors I would like to get worked on . I am willing to travel. I live on the east coast. PS. My old outboards are mostly johnson/evinrude
Hey. Thanks. I'm in Orlando. I don't usually take on other projects cause I barely have time to get my stuff done. But every once in a while I try to help out. Like this 82 25hp Johnson I'm checking out for a guy who watches and lives here in Orlando. Stay tuned for that! Thanks again !
Train some kid to help you, more business more money.
Can you get me a part number for that fuel pump. I wanna delete my vro pump. I already premix my fuel
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. I don't know the part number. Schematic doesn't show a this type of fuel pump it only shows the vro/pump setup. It's pretty standard though. It has to have the extra connection for the vacuum line plus the fuel in/out connections. Thanks again !
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 dang I've searched for a while trying to find one and just don't know what one will work. I bought a 3 bar pump but it doesn't pump
@@natetate2795 You probably have the right one but you have to plug the pulse hole in the back in order to use the hose connection for pulse/vacuum and vice versa.
Just takes time some time yeah does suck though
Yep!
Hey, does anyone know if you can use full synthetic gear lube in a 1986 , 70 evinrude outboard? If not, why?
I would say, sure. The synthetic stuff is good! Gear oil and 2-stroke. Thats my opinion! Thanks !
Think it's time for him to get a newer boat n motor ?
Hahaha Yeah! Thanks for tuning in!
I’m in fla too where about s you at
Hey at 1. I'm in O'Town. Thanks for tuning in!
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 thanks man for replying I just picked up a 89 70 evinrude and did compression test got 110 on top 95 in middle and 105 on bottom still fires right up and runs good think I should be worried
I bet Kodi Bass has one,you could have had it from Alaska in the time you have dealt with the other incompetent people!!
Yeah! They should let people know that they're 2 weeks behind. Thanks again !
Well all the fuel in the bottom is a good indicator
Thanks for watching !
I’ve towed many boats back that look like this one lol, the outboard is worth more than the boat not to be mean or anything my best friends boat isn’t much better.
Hahaha I know what you mean, But! Thats one hell of a boat! Hahaha As many times as it's been sunk and it's still floating! I don't know what brand it is but I'd buy one! Hahaha Thanks again !
The impeller it s even good working
Yeah I recently put that in when I swapped the gearcase. Thanks for tuning in!
I had the same problem with Crowley, now I order from anyone else.
Yeah I rarely ever use them but the last time I did it was super fast. Oh well. Thanks for watching and commenting. Stay tuned !
Need a small work shop
Hey. Definitely !
One Gasket on each side now...????
Yeah. I think that was really NOS! Hahaha Thanks again !
You alright man?
Yeah man. Just been bizzy. Stay tuned!
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 good to hear, just checking up on ya!
@@igotmesothelioma Thanks man! trying to throw something together right now. Stay tuned !
But the copper wire is the good stuff... The problem is the tin wiring...
Wrong. Tinned copper is the right kind.
An article I read said its when you add different types of wire together that causes the problem. And somebody before I came along added that piece of copper wire to hook up the fish finder so I've been running off of it. Next time I'll know better and you know there's gonna be a next time! Hahaha Thanks a!
Can someone help me with 99 Johnson ?
Hey. Whats up?
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 hey brother sorry I just came out of the blue like that lol. I love your videos and believe it or not you’ve helped me a lot in the past.
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 so I got this 99 Johnson ois pain the butt right? Lol. To make story short. Broken diaphragm in the vro pump (fuel). Got a rebuilt kit and did so also replaced coils and power pack. Ran beautiful after that. Now for some reason it won’t start even with a fully charged battery sounds like it tries to but it won’t. A day before this happened I noticed the primer bulb wasn’t getting hard and still managed to get it started. So I replaced the bulb now gets hard but it won’t start . So I’ll be doing some looking around today weather permitting here in the sunshine state lol. Any suggestions? tips? Thanks.
@@bubbleseverywhere194 Cool man Thanks ! So what's goin on?
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 I think you didn’t get the last reply lol
Sweet.
Thanks again for tuning in!
That's the best i have heard that 70 run I have the same motor in much better condition i to love it and it pushes my 17ft Lowe with two of the biggest everstart batteries they make 18 gal of gas trolling motor tackle cooler and my 250lb fat ass like a rocket ship.
its them big huge props they have lol i swear it is, then the fact that they turn like 7k rpm, yea there good motors ide rather one of these then a merc of the same year.
Yeah. I'm looking for one! Thanks again for tuning in!
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 Theres one on crags list now for 800.
Reverse polarity, that’s been around since the beginning a man
Thanks for tuning in!
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 Thank you for sharing your experiences and knowledge.
OK, guilty of trying to skim through this again...But, you are confusing me...Did the timer base get disconnected? Those plastic connectors are pretty flimsy. " Trying to adjust it to run as slow as possible with the warm up level raised"??? That doesn't make any sense... Maybe I am missing something, am trying to follow but you are losing me buddy. Sorry, but you really have to follow the OMC manual steps in order to get this set up properly...You can't start in the middle of the process, there is much more to the sync on this 3 carb engine than the basic set up on the single carb models...You have got the idle timing/speed screw turned in way too far....
Sorry, wish I was there. It's not rocket science like you say, but the steps must all be performed in order..... Trying to use some generic service manual will only cause confusion, they try to cover many different models, so they leave stuff out and just confuse...The proper OMC manual is a must for syncing this engine...
All that being said, seems to start and run OK now, except for the high idle....The blown open fuel pump pulse line wouldn't have made it hard starting, because you build up pressure with the primer bulb. But, it surely won't have quit after a few seconds because the fuel pump wasn't working.... What "grommet" did you replace?? Are you talking about the plastic timer base linkage connector?? D
meant to say "....it surely WOULD have quit...." in the third from the last line of my post...D
Hey. No it didnt really disconnect until I broke it. Hahaha, Yeah it was barely hanging on. Adjusting it with the warm up lever up to run slow wont make sense to you but it makes sense to me. It was really all about the cable and the amount of play it has in it. I was able to finally get it where it works best. Yes I know the Idle screw is in to far, since it overheated it never wanted to run at the original settings and I've spent way to much time on it already trying to find out why. I have the correct steps/procedure for that motor, and throttle cam #431707, with one pickup mark. Plus I have no tach or piston stop tool. But I did try and improvise with no luck. It just didn't want to run at those settings. You can still see the discoloration on the idle screw from where its been set for years and where it was before it overheated. Now, I can back it out, but if I go back to the original spot on the idle screw the timer base goes to far back and it dosent like to run there. I went through all 6 procedures and stopped at #7. I didn't think the maximum spark advance had changed. Now if you can tell me why it dosent want to run at those setting I'd be a happy man. And I have the OMC manual. And it is idling a little high due to tightening the throttle cam lock nut. It pushed the cam a bit to far and is touching the roller. Like I said, these settings were just a basic way to get this thing running, they're not exact to the manual. So if a person dosent have a tach or timing light there is hope! Hahaha. Yeah it was the plastic timer base linkage connector. After I replaced the switches and got it running the last time it was hard to start, Seemed like it was flooding but it actually wasnt getting any gas to the plugs. Then once it finally started it seemed fine. The owner told me he went down and started it and it fired right up. A few days later he said he couldn't get it started and thought he flooded it and thats where this video comes in. Anyway tell what you think. I gotta get off this computer, all day putting this video together and my eyeballs are about to fall out! Thanks again !
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 OK, well the powerhead was probably damaged internally during the overheat, which is why it won't run well at its older/original settings. Don't get me wrong, sometimes we have to alter book/optimal settings when the engine gets older/worn. The point I am trying to make is that each step can affect a previous step...So, the steps need to be performed in order, or you can mess up settings you made previously and create more confusion. Not to worry, nothing you have done will affect WOT timing, unless you actually moved it in or out without checking with the timing light. I'm sure it is just words that are causing my confusion, it is hard when I am not right there with you so I can understand what you are really meaning. So you are saying that the engine is idling high because the cam is touching the roller holding the carbs open slightly? If so, don't be afraid to leave a bit more of a gap between the cam/roller, better off that way than having the butterflies open slightly.
Don't forget what I mentioned awhile back....The original idle air bleeds for this engine were .033". The recommendation has been changed to replacing them with .029" air bleeds. So, perhaps this engine won't idle at the prescribed settings, perhaps it is a bit too lean. The smaller air bleeds will help. The air bleeds can be removed and inspected easily without any carb disassembly. The number will be stamped on the jet/air bleed, although it is tough for our old eyes to see, will need a magnifying glass...
@@fleetwin1 Hey. Yeah, I was going to do a follow up video so it would be a bit more understandable. But I've changed my mind. I did back it off the roller so its not touching again. It idles fine and still runs like a rocket. I went through the L/S sequence numerous times and I mean numerous, from the manual and this video, ua-cam.com/video/uJTx-ygU23U/v-deo.html. If you watch this video there really isnt much difference where the idle screw position is between the two motors and others I've seen. But if you go back to the earlier videos I did when I first started working on it you can see the difference. It drove me crazy trying to get it back to where it was at. I can get it close with adjusting the cable but its still different than it was. Anyway. It starts, it idles and still runs pretty good. The owner can go fishing again!
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 The main take away is that the steps must be performed in order, and that if you go back and change something later, you have changed other adjustments by doing so, so the whole procedure must be checked/done over again. I would add that it is important to remove the air box cover and actually look inside at the throttle plates to make sure they are fully closed and that they start to open at the same time. Putting pressure on those throttle arms to remove the slop can oftentimes "preload" them open just slightly. This is especially true on older engines that have some wear on the throttle shafts and throttle plates....You can not make the assumption that the throttle plates are actually closed by "snapping the throttle valves", worn throttle shafts/bodies/throttle plates can jam and not actually be completely closed. Trying to adjust the "slop" out of older engines is very tricky, you have to avoid inadvertently preloading those throttle plates open slightly....The only real way to check your work is to remove the air box cover and have a look inside each carb throat. Glad it is starting and working OK now, don't forget to check the size of those idle air bleeds....
Whats your email address? Do you live on lake Fairview, if so I can help you out on one of these weekends weld that crack up on that power head.
Yeah man. Anytime your ready. I can bring it to you or you can come over here. Let me know. I'm here right now if that works. Thanks Jake.
I live in Indiana lol
Send me the part! Hahaha Thanks for watching and commenting ! Stay tuned !
👀👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks again !
To much wasted talk, who cares about leaky tarp.
ua-cam.com/video/29ebiwO4O70/v-deo.html