I think that is an expansion joint, you need those to be flexible because the ground expands and contracts with the weather and temps. I seal mine with rapid-set self-leveling polymer sealant from HD and throw some sand on top to help blend it in with the driveway. This way it keeps water out and stops erosion under the slab.
For those who know it's an expansion joint, please comment about what should have been done. I've seen something that looks like black tar. Does weather, temp, etc., make a difference in what to use?
It's important to ask why the crack is there since it is an intentional crack. Ideally, you'd fill it in but ensure that the original control joint was replicated, so when it cracks open again, it goes where you want it to.
was thinking of doing a mix of regular sand and mortar to drop down into the bottom of a crack u want to seal, water that down, then finish the top 1/4 inch or so of whats left of the vertical depth of the crack with pure mortar.
I think you should have put in backer-rod (1”-3/4” depending on crack size) first. Then maybe Quikcret with added water (as directed). Smooth it out and let dry.
Should have filled crack with backer rod for different size cracks or multi-purpose sand. Then, put one of those in cracks about 1/2" lower than top of crack. Then finish with rapid set or sika self leveling sealant.
I have seen it done that way, and by all means that’s a solid repair. I considered that first, but wanted to try this method because when I did this repair a year ago, dry pour was a new process that a lot of people were experimenting with. I gave it a shot and it’s still holding up a year later.
I get where Ron is coming from, but people have to realize you used mortar. This will crack anyway under stress before the weather takes its toll on expansion and contracting from the ground. Should have used a flex sealant for that part.
Well, of course as two concrete slabs move over time almost anything will crack. Maybe Michael just needed to add a piece of the cardboard type material (I don’t know what it is called but have seen it on my wet concrete driveway) on one side of his dry pour vertically along crack and in crack. Thus, his mortar won’t crack while the slabs move vertically to each other over time or other changes.
Hey bub if I got a 2 inch wide 4 ft long crack in my driveway just fill it with this cement and add sprayer water every hour for 6 times and then put a concrete sealer on it.
Contractors charge more than you want to pay so you your idea is looking pretty good to me I like this technique it’s a lot easier too I bet it will last as long as a professional would do Thanks for video.
That is an expansion joint. The driveway and the garage slab always have an expansion joint and should not be cemented together. Seems like this guy's driveway had a lot of movement from settling and causing the expansion joint to over expand. I would have filled the joint with Elastomer. Filling the joint with cement will crack within a year.
In general, dry pour is just a UA-cam fad for a dumbass mind. It should not be used for slabs, steps, etc. But, there are a few instances where dry pour is okay. Apparently this has never been treated as an expansion joint, so if you're willing to do this every couple of years, okay. Even for this, when I'm essentially using it as grout, I would probably mix with water and use a grout bag to squeeze it into the space, then trowel or sponge it. It would be great for those gaps you had between rocks as well.
Why not pour wet concrete into the crack? I’m seeing comments not to fill an expansion joint I would fill it water will continue to get into the joint I absolutely have all my joints filled. Also you should let this set for at least 10 days after filling the cracks. Then apply driveway sealer with a paint roller on a stick.
Concrete vs mortar are two different applications and mixtures. Mortar is not recommended in this application, UNLESS is has polymers in it. Your title is misleading. Additionally, expansion joints need to be flexible.
This will just crack again. This is not how you fix this. The proper way is something like Vulkem 45SSL with foam backer rod below it. Every concrete manufacturer will tell you that dry pour is a bad idea and goes against their recommendations for their products.
Mate thats a big crack - Your driveway will have a different zip code to your house soon! Out of interest, a year later, did it work? It looks fine from here...
Actually, the way you see it in the video is exactly how it looks today. Was it the proper repair? No. I know that. Was it cheap, easy and drastically improve how it looks? YES! It served the purpose I set out to accomplish.
I have those wide cracks, and they’re cause by settling when the underneath isn’t stable, like under compacting or erosion. The stress on the concrete won’t stop unless the underneath is stabilized. I think you can tell by your video when the left side of your garage door seal isn’t touching the ground like the right side. There are UA-cam videos on concrete walkways where expanding foam is injected underneath, but it’s a job that requires a plan and parts, and field improvising. I paid $4,000 to have it done by a contractor since the stock market under Biden has been great, and MAGA will crash the system if they win in 2024. So I spent the money to quiet the wife from her complaining about the cracks.
Do not do what he is doing. He’s making a cosmetic patch to make it look better. He’s not understanding what an expansion joint is and what it requires.
ua-cam.com/video/iiBQ5ldw_ok/v-deo.html here’s a continuation of this video, 2 months later. Check it out!
I think that is an expansion joint, you need those to be flexible because the ground expands and contracts with the weather and temps. I seal mine with rapid-set self-leveling polymer sealant from HD and throw some sand on top to help blend it in with the driveway. This way it keeps water out and stops erosion under the slab.
Why not simply pour out a pile from the bag and sweep it into the crack? Seems like you're doing it the hard way.
For those who know it's an expansion joint, please comment about what should have been done. I've seen something that looks like black tar. Does weather, temp, etc., make a difference in what to use?
It's important to ask why the crack is there since it is an intentional crack. Ideally, you'd fill it in but ensure that the original control joint was replicated, so when it cracks open again, it goes where you want it to.
Fill with what? Should joint be made a little wider? He mentions it was an older house & had been filled with mortar first.
You should fill a control joint with caulk only to allow expansion
What kind of caulk?
use concrete/mortar with extra adhesive already mixed in the bag. its like $30/bag but the joints wont crack in a year.
Tearing the bag out of his way would make it easier to get the contents out of the bag
I am a total believer in dry pour, but isn't that an expansion joint you just filled?
Yep, I was thinking the same thing. Not a crack…it’s meant to be there for expansion. Yikes
What about for cracks in between cement steps outside?
Concrete shrink's does not expand.
@@peterloichtl4512 shrinking concrete? Interesting.
@peterloichtl4512 oh, in school I was taught heat causes things to expand and cold causes things to contract. I stand corrected.
was thinking of doing a mix of regular sand and mortar to drop down into the bottom of a crack u want to seal, water that down, then finish the top 1/4 inch or so of whats left of the vertical depth of the crack with pure mortar.
I think you should have put in backer-rod (1”-3/4” depending on crack size) first. Then maybe Quikcret with added water (as directed). Smooth it out and let dry.
You need expansion foam and top it with crack filler
Dry pour.. yes! I needed this video thank you!
Should have filled crack with backer rod for different size cracks or multi-purpose sand. Then, put one of those in cracks about 1/2" lower than top of crack. Then finish with rapid set or sika self leveling sealant.
I have seen it done that way, and by all means that’s a solid repair. I considered that first, but wanted to try this method because when I did this repair a year ago, dry pour was a new process that a lot of people were experimenting with. I gave it a shot and it’s still holding up a year later.
Did it work? is it still holding up?
U just goofed
Shouldn't you have made the ditch wet first?
I get where Ron is coming from, but people have to realize you used mortar. This will crack anyway under stress before the weather takes its toll on expansion and contracting from the ground. Should have used a flex sealant for that part.
Well, of course as two concrete slabs move over time almost anything will crack. Maybe Michael just needed to add a piece of the cardboard type material (I don’t know what it is called but have seen it on my wet concrete driveway) on one side of his dry pour vertically along crack and in crack. Thus, his mortar won’t crack while the slabs move vertically to each other over time or other changes.
Would any labeled flex sealant work?
@@bgwilke1670 yes
Hey bub if I got a 2 inch wide 4 ft long crack in my driveway just fill it with this cement and add sprayer water every hour for 6 times and then put a concrete sealer on it.
Good job thanks. Is the mixture could you please confirm the portion ratio of the mixture
Here’s a crazy idea. How about you moistened the concrete before you poured the dry cement in. Maybe it would bond better.
Ive never witnessed a dry pour video for dry pour mortar
Contractors charge more than you want to pay so you your idea is looking pretty good to me I like this technique it’s a lot easier too I bet it will last as long as a professional would do Thanks for video.
A nice think coat of giveway epoxy will help it to be all one color.
That is an expansion joint. The driveway and the garage slab always have an expansion joint and should not be cemented together. Seems like this guy's driveway had a lot of movement from settling and causing the expansion joint to over expand. I would have filled the joint with Elastomer. Filling the joint with cement will crack within a year.
You didn’t wet it or use a bonding agent it won’t work…..
Dude that's an expansion joint.
Mortar ? I thought a portland sand mix preferable instead.
In general, dry pour is just a UA-cam fad for a dumbass mind. It should not be used for slabs, steps, etc. But, there are a few instances where dry pour is okay. Apparently this has never been treated as an expansion joint, so if you're willing to do this every couple of years, okay. Even for this, when I'm essentially using it as grout, I would probably mix with water and use a grout bag to squeeze it into the space, then trowel or sponge it. It would be great for those gaps you had between rocks as well.
Concrete does not expand it shrinks.
Why not pour wet concrete into the crack? I’m seeing comments not to fill an expansion joint I would fill it water will continue to get into the joint I absolutely have all my joints filled. Also you should let this set for at least 10 days after filling the cracks. Then apply driveway sealer with a paint roller on a stick.
Won’t last long. That definitely is a expansion joint
Don't cut the paper off so you don't spill product..🤣
This is like watching paint dry !
No rocks?
Errr this is NOT a crack, it is a EXPANSION JOINT...not to be filled Daaaaaaaaaaaa
Open the bigger ya all
U just filled a expansion joint . You are going to cause ur self all sorts of problems doing that
No offense, but come on, dude, you could have taped it off and just poured it in there and swept it in real nice.
Concrete vs mortar are two different applications and mixtures. Mortar is not recommended in this application, UNLESS is has polymers in it. Your title is misleading. Additionally, expansion joints need to be flexible.
Why didn't you fill the large crack that comes out from your new concrete line?
I did, just not in this video. Check out my channel for the other videos regarding the rest of the process.
You just filled a control joint.🤦🏾
Dry pours make for weak concrete..
Yea…..I don’t think you’re supposed to seal those up
Dude you f’ed up bad! Why is this video still up? You have an ethical obligation to take this down! I just hope people are reading these comments.
I think this guy “flipped” the house I bought. Oof.
Cool process l Thanks for posting l.
This will just crack again. This is not how you fix this. The proper way is something like Vulkem 45SSL with foam backer rod below it. Every concrete manufacturer will tell you that dry pour is a bad idea and goes against their recommendations for their products.
Why put mortar and why in an expansion joint? This will not end good.
What is the solution?
Mate thats a big crack - Your driveway will have a different zip code to your house soon! Out of interest, a year later, did it work? It looks fine from here...
Actually, the way you see it in the video is exactly how it looks today. Was it the proper repair? No. I know that. Was it cheap, easy and drastically improve how it looks? YES! It served the purpose I set out to accomplish.
All of u are wrong. That's called a construction joint.
I did the same way, but it is a completely waste of money and time. This type of repair will not long last.
Lol k
This is a bad bad idea. A flex filler is tequired for expansion.
I have those wide cracks, and they’re cause by settling when the underneath isn’t stable, like under compacting or erosion. The stress on the concrete won’t stop unless the underneath is stabilized. I think you can tell by your video when the left side of your garage door seal isn’t touching the ground like the right side. There are UA-cam videos on concrete walkways where expanding foam is injected underneath, but it’s a job that requires a plan and parts, and field improvising.
I paid $4,000 to have it done by a contractor since the stock market under Biden has been great, and MAGA will crash the system if they win in 2024. So I spent the money to quiet the wife from her complaining about the cracks.
Do not do what he is doing. He’s making a cosmetic patch to make it look better. He’s not understanding what an expansion joint is and what it requires.
Please don’t do this, it’s not tied to concrete, it will crack again, I promise. You have to use something that allows for expansion
Dry fill don't mean you shouldn't have wet and or put water in first. Your welcome
That's not a Crack, it is an expansion seam