Great video, appreciate you posting it. Having now done this job both ways, I would highly recommend just pulling the intake manifold for this job. It is possible to do it without, but it ups the difficulty by an enormous amount and really doesn't save much time, if any at all. Getting the new hoses on to the new CCV is extremely difficult in that tight space unless you have Superman's grip and wrist strength. I'm sure if you did it this way a couple times you could start to see some time save, but to the average person, it will be far easier, quicker, and less frustrating to just remove the manifold. Regardless, that's just my opinion. Always good to have more options on how to do something. Great video OP.
Thank you mate. Appreciate the comment. In the video, it was my first time doing it with the inlet still in place. Normally, I always do it with inlet off. I have done it this way a few times since, and it's definitely quicker, I feel, but yes, not much space, so it can be a bit fiddly.
Just did mine this weekend, although I was doing oil filter housing seal too which made access loads easier without removing the manifold, but easy enough with not removing teh manifold. Cheers for the guide
I just did this “simple” job this weekend and it took me 7 hours. Getting the hoses connected was not as easy as you made it seem. I also accidentally disconnected the purge valve from the manifold and ended up removing the manifold to reattach.
@@GaragE36uk while I have you, what tool would you recommend to remove the vanos solenoid on the exhaust side? Mine is leaking and only thing I can think of is removing the whole unit. I appreciate any input. Thank you.
Excessive oil consumption was my main issue and smoked a little, both seem to have now been fixed.. Also seems to run better, I had alot of oil sludge in mine which was probably going back into the inlet.
Great video mate ~ Question.. I had my ccv changed during a clutch install and oil pan gasket job. I thought my oil consumption was due to the oil pan leak , now I am thinking it may be a faulty ccv ( new from fcp euro - non oem ). Or is it possible the new ccv is indeed working , but now creating normal vacum in the cylinder head , causing the old ( 224k on the motor ) valve seals to let more oil by due to the pressure from the new ccv. I started using 10w - 40 oil , little less smoke. Debating if I should try the Forte oil treatment and conditioner to see if that helps. Thanks ~
Thanks mate.. I had high oil consumption, was hoping the ccv would have cured it, but not the case, still uses more than it should no smoke or anything tho or very little as I don't notice. Car still drives fine tho I use lucas oil stabiliser in mine..
how's the oil consumption situation going after changing ccv? mine burn a quart every 800miles with moderate driving... car ran normal and no issues.. im afraid changing ccv will not solve the consumption issue 😮💨
you can try o2pilot mod for oil consumption (dont do it if temps are below 0 degree celsius - if ccv froze it would suck in entire oil from oil pan :) and most likely kill the engine )
Mine is the same, but a few years ago i took a 1600 mile trip in Sweden. I filled the engine oil at home and trusted the oil level lamp (as usual) to come on when the level went low. Some 99% higway in leagal pace, easy on the trottle most of the time. When i got back home i was going to fill at least a quarter of oil, but there where no room for any oil. The stick showed almost full. I started to belive that i had overfilled it when leaving, but it seem like higway smooth driving wont suck any exess oil. Its a convertible and i only drive it in the summer. Last summer i did a oil/filter change and replaced the oil filter housing O "ring", after 200 miles the low on oil lamp went cracy. So this summer a new ccv and the censor in the oil pan will be replaced. I also changed the rear chocks last summer at close to 120 000 miles. They are so easy to change on a conv, so i did not buy expensive ones. I think 30 min for both of them is enough. At lest now when i done it once. 2003 330ci . Its my 10 years aniversery this spring with the car. And when looking at what they are asking for the car today, its aboute what i payed 10 years ago. I usually get one or two SMS asking if i want to sell the car, every summer. Specially when the weather is nice and hot. But i will keep the car, as long as i can drive a car. I also have a 2003 hyunday gets as my winter car.
Yo, how did the ccv fit overall? I see at 17:32 that the left hose,the one thats going up, isnt fit properly, i have the same and causing a huge vacuumleak because of that.
@@GaragE36uk yeah, i figured that out too. Did the same but only with a heaterhose and original tips cutted off. Putt that together and voila, haha. But thanks for the reply man!
Great video, appreciate you posting it. Having now done this job both ways, I would highly recommend just pulling the intake manifold for this job. It is possible to do it without, but it ups the difficulty by an enormous amount and really doesn't save much time, if any at all. Getting the new hoses on to the new CCV is extremely difficult in that tight space unless you have Superman's grip and wrist strength. I'm sure if you did it this way a couple times you could start to see some time save, but to the average person, it will be far easier, quicker, and less frustrating to just remove the manifold.
Regardless, that's just my opinion. Always good to have more options on how to do something. Great video OP.
Thank you mate. Appreciate the comment. In the video, it was my first time doing it with the inlet still in place. Normally, I always do it with inlet off.
I have done it this way a few times since, and it's definitely quicker, I feel, but yes, not much space, so it can be a bit fiddly.
Just did mine this weekend, although I was doing oil filter housing seal too which made access loads easier without removing the manifold, but easy enough with not removing teh manifold. Cheers for the guide
Yes removing the oil filter housing will give you some extra access. Thanks for watching, glad it helped
I just did this “simple” job this weekend and it took me 7 hours. Getting the hoses connected was not as easy as you made it seem. I also accidentally disconnected the purge valve from the manifold and ended up removing the manifold to reattach.
I do this type of stuff as a job. I think it took a couple of hours. If I take the manifold off, then it only takes an extra 20 mins or so.
@@GaragE36uk while I have you, what tool would you recommend to remove the vanos solenoid on the exhaust side? Mine is leaking and only thing I can think of is removing the whole unit. I appreciate any input. Thank you.
@@GaragE36uk nm I just figured it out lol
@@agustinreyes6111 no worries, always happy to help
hello my friend I have seen a lot of videos from other mechanic technical and you are the best, thank you and a lot of greatings from Athens Greece
Ah thank you for the comment. Really appreciate your kind words. Nice to have you here.
Nice video iv👍 brilliant review and step by step installation
Thanks mate.
@@GaragE36uk 👍
@GaragE36 youtube put a bmw advert at the end of your video aswell iv nice👍
you are a machine! Thanks for this video
😂 thank you, you are very welcome
Make sure to sub if your not already subbed.
Great video, would you think it would be better to get for cold weather version? In uk
No I wouldn't think the UK is that cold to need one.
Nice video, whats the symptoms before and after?
Excessive oil consumption was my main issue and smoked a little, both seem to have now been fixed.. Also seems to run better, I had alot of oil sludge in mine which was probably going back into the inlet.
Great video mate ~ Question..
I had my ccv changed during a clutch install and oil pan gasket job. I thought my oil consumption was due to the oil pan leak , now I am thinking it may be a faulty ccv ( new from fcp euro - non oem ). Or is it possible the new ccv is indeed working , but now creating normal vacum in the cylinder head , causing the old ( 224k on the motor ) valve seals to let more oil by due to the pressure from the new ccv. I started using 10w - 40 oil , little less smoke. Debating if I should try the Forte oil treatment and conditioner to see if that helps.
Thanks ~
Thanks mate..
I had high oil consumption, was hoping the ccv would have cured it, but not the case, still uses more than it should no smoke or anything tho or very little as I don't notice. Car still drives fine tho
I use lucas oil stabiliser in mine..
How long did that cheap febi stuff last before you had new air leaks?
Have fitted lots of febi kits with no issues..
can you guys do a m54 swap on a e36 318ti for a customer?
Yes of course mate
Does this work on my flux capacitor?
@stewartcolley1345 you could try it, but only at 10.04pm on a Saturday night..
how's the oil consumption situation going after changing ccv? mine burn a quart every 800miles with moderate driving... car ran normal and no issues.. im afraid changing ccv will not solve the consumption issue 😮💨
It's alot less that before. Still a little bit of oil consumption but not as drastic as before
It's a Bimmer...its what they do
you can try o2pilot mod for oil consumption (dont do it if temps are below 0 degree celsius - if ccv froze it would suck in entire oil from oil pan :) and most likely kill the engine )
Mine is the same, but a few years ago i took a 1600 mile trip in Sweden. I filled the engine oil at home and trusted the oil level lamp (as usual) to come on when the level went low. Some 99% higway in leagal pace, easy on the trottle most of the time. When i got back home i was going to fill at least a quarter of oil, but there where no room for any oil. The stick showed almost full. I started to belive that i had overfilled it when leaving, but it seem like higway smooth driving wont suck any exess oil. Its a convertible and i only drive it in the summer. Last summer i did a oil/filter change and replaced the oil filter housing O "ring", after 200 miles the low on oil lamp went cracy. So this summer a new ccv and the censor in the oil pan will be replaced. I also changed the rear chocks last summer at close to 120 000 miles. They are so easy to change on a conv, so i did not buy expensive ones. I think 30 min for both of them is enough. At lest now when i done it once. 2003 330ci . Its my 10 years aniversery this spring with the car. And when looking at what they are asking for the car today, its aboute what i payed 10 years ago. I usually get one or two SMS asking if i want to sell the car, every summer. Specially when the weather is nice and hot. But i will keep the car, as long as i can drive a car. I also have a 2003 hyunday gets as my winter car.
All it needs a an oil change & filter, good vid tho👍
Oil and filter changed regularly
Yo, how did the ccv fit overall? I see at 17:32 that the left hose,the one thats going up, isnt fit properly, i have the same and causing a huge vacuumleak because of that.
I think I used one of my old pipes as the new one didn't seem to want to fit right. Was very tight. Old pipe worked fine.
@@GaragE36uk yeah, i figured that out too. Did the same but only with a heaterhose and original tips cutted off. Putt that together and voila, haha. But thanks for the reply man!
@@Bimmerfanatic. glad you got it sorted. Hope the video helped..
@@GaragE36uk it did for sure!
@@Bimmerfanatic. awesome, nice to know it's helped some one..
this is a superior video in that most BMW mechanics show helpful techniques for working on the car not this one , Superior crap
Thanks for watching 👍