It all depends on whether you have something that a particular person wants I think. I’m not sure though; I generally don’t sell my kits. Dan from Guns and Guitars would be a better person to ask.
The last time we talked turns out I had covid well I tested 3 weeks ago past Saturday and showed positive but it really started 4 weeks ago this coming Wednesday and I'm still fighting it brother I'm a little bit overweight it's quite a bit more than a little bit but I'm not going to tell everybody I'm a hundred pounds overweight oops lol and a 47-year smoker so I hope that I don't have a long lasting effects from this crap it's the second time I've had it and this time it knocked the living crap out of me I haven't gotten anything done since you and I talked. I'll take care of my good friend cheers
My buillds usually use neck shims and always use neck screws that pass through the body holes. I use a method from Highline Guitars to determine the proper amount of shim: a straightedge on the frets should rest on the saddle when the saddle is adjusted all the way down. Then raise the saddle for desired action.
Great job as usual. I can’t count how many guitars have come across my bench that went from Zero to Hero by just shimming the neck. Especially in the ‘80s when shredtastic action wasn’t optional. I was the sticky sandpaper guy, a little rectangle right against the neck pocket trimmed to make the corner radius. Shim stock for some reason hadn’t hit the StewMac catalog (it was paper back then) yet. Good stuff, thanks for doing this video and I hope your pet is ok.
Thank you for putting this information out there! I've done an unreal amount of research on improving my action and hadn't found anything like this. I'm so glad I found your channel. I can't imagine what goes into developing skills like these.
Luckily the guitar building community is usually pretty happy to share knowledge, so it’s not too difficult to pick up tricks etc. if you know who to ask.
one great tip I've learned - slacken the neck bolts after tuning the guitar and let the strings pull the neck into pocket, then tighten again and retune - did wonders for sustain on my bolt on guitars
Possible carcinogenic concerns from exposure due to long term direct skin contact with petroleum products. Low viscosity UPS grade mineral oil might be a better option. It's the active ingredient in just about every fretboard oil out there except for Fret Doctor, which is made from essential oils.
Great video. It is amazing that shimming the neck can solve problems at either, or both ends. I prefer tapered shims. They are more expensive, but well worth it. This is the only way to get true 100% contact between the neck and the neck pocket. And don't forget to slightly over size the bolt holes in the body. Very important.
I realize people will do this many different ways and be happy with the results. The thing to remember is that this takes place close to the end by the truss rod. An important end of the neck. Let me put it this way. When two surfaces are going to be bolted together and these surfaces do not have full co-planar contact, stresses are introduced at that point since the material will deform once they are screwed together. This deformation could affect the truss rod operation or damage the heel. The way to avoid this is by using a full contact tapered shim that will give a non deforming, full contact connection. No gaps, no stress, no deformation. It is not a theory, just best mechanical practice for connections requiring shims. There is an old saying, "never time to do it right, but always time to do it twice." I try do get it right the first time.
Fair enough Dennis. I just don’t think a shim this thin has any chance of damaging the heal or impacting the truss rod. I get what you’re saying from a physics perspective, I just don’t think there’s enough there for a practical impact. It seems to me like suggesting that if you park your car with a piece of cardboard under under one wheel for a while it’ll throw the suspension out of alignment.
@@BradAngove I'm a full time guitar tech, I always taper my shims, my personal belief on it's importance, is that the uneven force applied from the non tapered shim can cause issues with the high frets. Ever played an old bolt on guitar which starts to warp past say the 15th fret, coz they usually all do! Making sure the shim is tapered and applying even pressure will mean that this warping, which can cause dead frets, takes a little longer or is never an issue. It's a small thing, but it is the 'proper' way to do it.
Thanks Joe. I’ve played older guitars with warping issues but they didn’t have shims. Wood can change over time; there’s no doubt. I still don’t think a shim like this is going to be any better or worse, short term or long, than a tapered shim. But, as always, to each their own. I don’t worry so much about the “right way” to do things on guitars anymore. There’s a lot of old mythology still governing how people work on guitars. For example, some people still think lacquer sounds noticeably better (or at least different) than poly on an electric guitar haha.
Great content as ever Brad and for a very worthy reason. My step daughter’s dog, who we all love as part of the family had emergency surgery for a twisted stomach last week which would have killed him if they hadn’t acted so promptly. He’s well on the mend now but it was a £6.5k bill. Fortunately they have both a brilliant vet and good insurance. So happy your pet is getting better. I’m a big fan of shims where they are needed and love shooting down ‘keyboard warriors’ on FB groups who parrot the myth that they ‘rob tone’ or cause ‘neck hump’. One of my original ‘87 RG550’s has a very cool ibanez branded cardboard shim! Keep up the great content buddy.
Thank you Simon. Sorry to hear that the dog needed surgery, but I’m glad he was taken care of! Yes, dispelling guitar myths has become a bit of a pastime of mine on occasion haha.
I've had that very problem and I smoke Marlboro Lights in the Box and I took the neck off and I tore some of the cardboard from the Marlboro box and I sent them against the body all the way in the pocket and that brought the headstock back and I did it to where I had to raise the bridge to get the strings to stop spreading out that was 40 years ago and they're still in that neck and is still plays better than any guitar I have ever picked up at guitar music center or anywhere it's a Fender Stratocaster
Strangest thing I ever personally saw used as a shim was a matchbook cover. Nice to see it done correctly. Sorry about your pet, hopefully all is well now. Keep sharing tips.......
I always used my cigarette pack cuz I've been smoking cigarettes from a box pack for years and years and years and that's why I always use the shim them and I just tear a piece of the cardboard from the cigarette box and see what it does. I'd lower the bridges down all the way so I knew I'd have enough movement and then shim it until it fretted out real bad and there you go of course before you put the strings back on you should do a fret leveling job on the neck then put strings back on
Nice finish Brad. If I could suggest something? Invest in an impact driver instead of that drill. It affords you better control and has a built in torque limiter. A 12v model is all you need.
@@BradAngove I find that I end up using the drill for holes only. The battery lasts longer in the impact and I get better control over fasteners with a lot less stripping out. I learned this working in swimming pools where most screws go into some plastic or other softer materials.
Isn't the function basically the same on the drill by rotating the torque setting on the neck of the drill? (which I see his drill has) I know the difference between an impact driver and drill, but if we are talking about simply limiting the torque, does the impact driver still have an advantage?
Nice Brad. So many necks need shimming and there are so many ways to go about it. Thank you for showing the way you do it. Hope everything works out with the surgery! ✌️ & 💕
Is there any advantage or disadvantage to using a shim over changing the angle of the pocket with router jig or chisel? Other than the fact that you can't easily replace wood once it is gone. I had to shim the neck on my Schecter and I read that shims would decrease the value of the guitar.
Some people would probably argue that changing the angle allows for better contact between parts, which they think will increase sustain. I don’t think it makes any difference as long as you have the skills to do a good job of the angle change and you’re not removing wood that you need (aka neck isn’t too low in the pocket). However, if I were concerned about the value decrease I would do a tapered shim the full size of the pocket, test it, and then glue it in.
Thanks Brad, a good show about neck which is essentially the foundation of any guitar. We can install toonie sized pots and cloth covered wires and $1,000 worth of pickups and a 2 pound stainless steel bridge and golden saddles. But it's all trash if ONE fret is too high or the neck pocket begs a piece of onion skin paper to smarten up the action. You mentored me into guitar refinishing a few year ago. I have gotten pretty good at it (I hope). I had trbl at 1st with rushing it, not allowing sufficient "time between coats". But that's all good now. I'm all Rustoleum. Period. Thanks for your help!
I dig it! You don’t see many guitars with the back of the neck painted same as the body and I’m not sure why fender won’t do it not even on limited edition guitars I just don’t get it! Ibanez Roadstars were like that! I have this problem with high action by the neck pick up on a couple guitars!
Love these videos thanks. Is there a video on here in which your repair deep scratches. I've got an Epiphone LP in poly and someone scratched it through to the timber on the body. I want to know what my options are.
I don’t think I did a video on it, but on a poly finish I would generally do a little bit of color (on a fine brush) and then use some starbond super glue to fill the scratch. Then I would scrape it flat with a razor blade, spot sand very fine, and polish.
Great video...i just realized that this might be the solution to a problem I'm having with my tele...the saddles are adjusted way down and the adjustment screws bite into my hand i think if i shim the neck up a bit i could adjust the bridge saddles up as well...worth a shot anyway...
Got any tricks for when bass side has way more relief than treble side when put under tension (with flat 13s)? If I adjust the truss rod for the treble side the bass side still has too much bow.
Hi Jeffrey, yes that’s me. Angoveguitars.com has my “stock” models or you can email me at Brad.angove@gmail.com if you need something bespoke or that isn’t on the website.
They are offering shims at StewMac, great stuff, expensive als allways, but perfect. You‘re SO right with the screeholes!!! But the screw you are using has a flat upper part, that would work in a tight hole too. (what sounds a little weird…)
Nice job Brad. You shimmied around and screwed that neck like a pro. I actually need to shim my Les Paul copy. I put a Fishman Triple Play Connect Midi Pickup on it and it raised the action significantly. Thankfully the Les Paul (ish) guitar I own has a bolt on neck so I'll just get some balsa wood and shape it before I put it on. Have to make sure the neck angle is optimum. By the way, the Fishman Triple Play is an Awesome Midi system. You can trigger beats, different instruments, loops or even an entire orchestra by plucking a single note. It's also great for transposing to a DAW while you're playing in real time. A great songwriting and practice tool. You should do a review of one on your channel. Hit Fishman up or charge it to the company. Brad The Luthier Corp. Not to be confused with Bob the Builder.
I’m not familiar with those. Do they get mounted under the bridge? I’ll have a look. Maybe fishman will help me out with that, but as you probably know by now I’m not exactly a talented guitarist/songwriter haha. I may have to bring in some help to demo it.
@@BradAngove Yeah it has a pickup which mounts directly near the bridge on the pickup's side. I'm sure Fishman would help you out. Grab another one for me while you're at it. Ha ha ha ha.
Hi Brad, I have upgraded cheap single coil pickup ceramic magnets with neodymium bar magnets (60x10x3mm) in many guitars and the tone is a vast improvement, have you done this or can you make a video doing this and let people know your expert opinion. Thanks.
Hi Peter, I’ve done a few pickup upgrades and you can see me do them in most of my kit builds. Often I end up doing things like switching for single coils in my tele builds (including this one) to instead putting in humbuckers. I expect I will do more of those types of upgrades, although I am no pickup expert. Dylan talks tone is probably the guy to ask about that.
Hello Brad not sure if you made video of it its just a lot of them :D. I have old guitar that was originally white but it turned into that ugly yellowish color after time, what should i do make it nice white color again and maybe prevent it from going yellow in the future if its possible? Thank you in advance.
It could be a truss rod adjustment, but more like needs the bridge raised a touch or some fret work. It doesn’t hurt to level the high frets down a touch either.
@@BradAngove the trust rod on this neck is the one where the neck needs to be taken off to adjust it. It was the 19th 20th 21st 22nd 24 fret rasing the floyd rose from the zero point didn't help I tried 1 through 4 shims.
I have a bag of ivory key tops from an old piano I use for neck shims. A little copper shielding tape to hold it in place. You're mistaken about neck pocket fitment side-to-side not mattering to the function of the guitar. Totally matters. Excellent opportunity to learn to shim that direction also. If you put your cordless on the neck screw, it'll drill out any hanging-up in the body. No need for a drill bit. EDIT: The first time you strip out a neck hole using a cordless will cure you of that bad habit. We'd really like to see some pictures of your animal in need of surgery. It'd make a big difference in clearing out your inventory.
Thanks Rich. I have to disagree with you about the side-to-side element, and I may at some point do a video proving it (I’ve played a guitar with just a “tongue” for the heel instead of a full pocket and it was great). I appreciate your support. I may post a picture of the pet on Instagram if you follow me there.
I didn’t say it was superior. I said the side fit doesn’t really matter; which would make it equivalent. I also didn’t say it was beyond improvement. The proper inference from me saying the side fit doesn’t really matter would be that it is not an improvement or a detriment one way or the other. That goes for every dialect of English that I’m familiar with.
I think It would be much better if you used a file and took some of the front edge of the pocket instead of using a shim, like an 1/8th or so. I normally stretch a string from the nut to the bridge with the saddle adjusted to its lowest point and file the pocket until the string just touches the last fret then install inserts and actual bolts not screws. I t seems to work the best for me and I get solid wood to wood contact for best sustain and no gap at the pocket. Cool looking guitar for a kit build.
Thanks. I don’t think this creates a gap that is capable of changing anything, so I would stick with this method simply because it is so much easier and doesn’t creat a risk of making the bottom of the pocket uneven. As with all things though: do whatever works for you.
You'll never in a million years achieve a flat surface by filing. Shimming is the best way, unless you can set up a router or similar machine tool to generate a flat surface at exactly the right angle. I agree with the use of inserts and machine screws. They improve the neck joint immeasurably.
@@ParaBellum2024 I get so close it's not even measurable. The string will tell you how close you are so yes you can get as good as any router. Use the right file and it's perfect plus years of experience helps :)
Hi Brad, I read somewhere that it’s best to use a shim that goes for the full length of the neck pocket and is tapered so it’s thinner at the headstock end of the neck pocket. It’s something to do with their being a gap between neck and neck pocket where there is no shim as you have done here. What are your thoughts on this? I’ve got a Squier CV 70 Jaguar that I’m thinking of shimming so would be interested in how you view the process of shimming.
There’s nothing wrong with that option except that you would perhaps see a bit of the shim. People believe a lot of things like that in guitar building for some reason and most of them make no practical difference. Particularly in an electric guitar that gap will not make any difference that we would be able to discern.
It’s kind of you to ask. One of my viewers sent a donation for that purpose to my PayPal, which is in the description (Brad.angove@gmail.com), which was a very nice surprise. To be clear though; I’ll make sure she’s taken care of regardless. I don’t want people to think that they have to help or she won’t get what she needs. She had the surgery. I’m just trying to make sure I can deal with the credit card bill now haha.
I've tried it both ways. One video recommended drilling from the top. I did one recently and put tape on the bottom and the hole were clean@@BradAngove
If the angle is inadequate the saddles would end up being too low. Either bottomed out, or at least low enough that the set screws would come through the top and may be uncomfortable.
Hi I have jem jr,and I am on low E 2.5mm high E 1.5mm but I'd like low E to be 2mm to feel comfortable!! I have spent days trying to adjust kneck taking it slow tuning every turn I make but makes no difference still I get abit of buzz,only on my low E A strings it's really annoying please help me I'm only wanting to come down on low E bye 0.5mm and it wont let me due to buzz any ideas
@@BradAngove first 3 fretts E A strings low,,then from fretts 12th 13th 14th onwards buddy it's not the worst but its noticeable and it's not even low action I'm only dropping to 19mm 2mm soon as I go too 2.5mm it goes away but I would like it down to 2mm atleast to feel comfortable
@@BradAngove I changed strings same gauge 9s and shim my locking nut height,its reading from frett 1 2 3 about 1,2mm? Is that high,I have jem jr ibenez its brand new frets are all new seems no uneaven fretts checked them,it had all over buzz when I had got the guitar until I raised up the bridge and mucked about with the kneck,not slot of kneck relief to muck about with
Cardboard from a cereal box works just as well as a shim of wood, though I sort of cheated and soaked it in PVA glue and let it dry before I used it. End result was the same. I hope your pet is ok. Love your videos.
Nice job on the guitar. A side note, understand you need to take care of your pup. My wife and I have always found a reputable pet insurance is prudent at most every juncture. In fact our dogs are better insured than us...lol. Was your sweet dog covered?
We don’t have coverage. I did the math on one of ours and determined that the premiums didn’t make sense for us. I’m not sure how the insurance policies here in Canada compare to yours though.
Man I can't even begin to express my heartfelt sympathy for what you're going through with your furry family member. I really, truly hope they can save him/her. I've been there too so I feel it totally. Is there a donation site available to help you out? If not, will you consider serring one up? I'll pledge $50 right now. I know it's not a lot, but it's a start. By the way that's such a cool guitar, but this is about your family right now so let us know how we can help.
Thank you; that’s very kind of you. She has had her surgery and is doing well, so I’m grateful for that. Now I’m just trying to make it a little easier on myself to pay the credit card bill haha. I don’t have a site for this in particular, but if you would like to help you are welcome to donate via PayPal to Brad.angove@gmail.com This would usually go to help support the channel, but in this case it would go to paying off the surgery. Either way I appreciate the sentiment and thank you for watching the video.
Good job. Sorry about the pet. I just found out mine needs about 1500 worth of dental work. But the real world of working on guitars is not quite the same as what you're doing.. I have one to be worked on that shows the reason. It's a 1998 faded cherry Epi SG. Headstock is broken off along the side of the 1 2 3 strings. Not a hard fix but the guitar has been played hard and put away wet for 24 f'ing years. I need a hazmat suit and cleaning area setup before I even touch it. It's more normal then working on a pristine almost new guitar.
I missed what you said about patreon. Would you please let me know what episode that was on? Well I just can't shut up today can I Brad LOL been like this ever since the 6th of June when I was 59 I wouldn't like this but midnight when I turned 60 I had started forgetting things I have had things happening I'd rather not discuss and what was I saying?? See what I mean LMAO
You can't really beat a bolt-on neck for practicality. Re-setting a glued joint is a major hassle, and god help you if you have a neck-through with a bad angle due to warpage or something, because you're basically buying the guitar twice if you pay to have it fixed.
Somehow I got unsubscribed from everybody if there is a problem with the payment from my card please let me know Brad I was wondering what happened. Hey I've got a project here and then I could use a little bit of your time one-on-one wouldn't take but 10 minutes or so it's about airbrushing thunder and lightning coming from the clouds into the pickups on mahogany Gibson SG that is bare wood. I need to seal the wood with something as compatible with the paint I'm using in my airbrush and it's compatible with the clear and hardener that I have and they both have to be compatible with a clear that I have to use to seal the wood you see my dilemma I have the materials but I don't know if they're going to be all compatible because that's going to be a lot of work and it's going to be absolutely beautiful cuz I'm going to put three clear coats on the completed picture and then I'm going to highlight the lightning with a close thin Center Line which will be three layers of clear from the original artwork I'll do that after I let sand the clear and then I'm going to put three more coats of clear on it and that should give the lightning somewhat of a 3D effect and make it pop a little more but I've got to make sure everything's compatible and I don't have a clue but we would almost have to talk to one another so I can let you know what I have and you can let me know what I need I know that it's not your normal thing for you to call any of your subscribers but Brad, I really really need your help cuz this project is very very important. If by a miracle you want to call me let me know I will give you my number and no one will ever know that we discussed anything other than here. And most importantly I will eat the piece of paper your number will be on and I will set the phone on self-destruct to get rid of the number LOL. Your old buddy needs some help. I did turn 60 just last month tomorrow so give an old geezer some wisdom would you
@@BradAngove thanks a lot for your answer it's 5:45 here right now so when I'm a little more awake here in a couple of hours I'll tell you what I've got if that's okay
@@BradAngove yeah I already have like the clear that I have came from Custom pans in Florida they get it from the UK and that's the paint I was telling you about it's in a rattle can and you pull the pin on the bottom of it and it releases the hardener that's like good for about 24 hours after that cuz I wanted to use some hardener as a sealer so the wood grain would really pop like you said it probably would with what just using a clear on it. They told me down there where I got that at that I had to use a kind of poly with it as a sealer because I wouldn't get the artwork done with your hair brush before that sealer got done because I would still have to put three coats on it and sand it down and put my other three coats on it I wouldn't have time so I better use a different sealer. Now the paint for my airbrush is a water base acrylic which I'm assuming if that Polly is dry the airbrush paint would be okay and as long as I let it dry 100% to where the water was 100% evaporated that I could just seal it inside with the other clear. And I was just wondering if what I'm doing is going to be okay because I'm going to make my lightning bolts wide and not super bright it's going to be more of the glow on my first application the pulley airbrush back you know and put my three coats of clear on it and then move up on lightning bolts with a real brake light and move in closer and follow them in the center with the actual lightning bolt to give it a little bit of a 3d effect and then put my last three coats of clear on it and then do my finish work on it do you think that's going to work out all right I can't find anybody around here this has any knowledge whatsoever about what's going on in the paint world I guess everything I've learned I've learned from you and a airbrush fell out of you probably know who I'm talking about please a fantastic teacher and stuff. Hey I hope your puppy dog or whatever your pet was that you had to have emergency surgery on is doing well! I have my two wiener dogs I think I told you about them before it will with me when my wife was killed and everything back 2012 and they're like children I know how close you can be to him Brad. I hope it's your buddies doing okay. But that's about the size of things going on but I'm just wondering if the poly sealer and the water-based acrylic airbrush paint and the way I'm going to apply it and then put whatever that clear is that is only compatible with polymer base while I would imagine I guess it's probably base clear if they would all be along on my masterpieces LOL I sure do appreciate everything that you've taught me in the last 2-3 years without you even knowing it and that's a damn nice guitar and that's beautiful work you did on it too by the way I'll talk to you later buddy and thanks again for getting back with me Brad I sure appreciate it. Cheers my brother. I'm an old hillbilly that's why I call you my brother LOL cuz in my eyes you are
@@BradAngove no reply I just sent you of course it's talk to text you know always use it but I hope you can make sense because I'm not feeling the best I got some crap in my lungs it just it's got me not feeling too good but I hope you can make sense of what I wrote cuz I didn't proofread it too good I know I said crazy pans instead of crazy cans
Hi George, I think I understand what you’re after. Are you looking to have any tint to your sealer to help the grain pop? If so, I would go with shellac. Get it all sealed up with shellac and give it a few days to dry. Then sand with 600 grit to get everything smooth and then you can do your lightning work. For the clear coat between layers of lightning you’re looking for a mid-coat clear. Spraymax for example makes an acrylic 1k clear that works well as a mid-coat.
@@BradAngove lol .. you basically said " watch my video to learn an AWESOME TRICK to make your guitar play better" .. then crapped the bed with the startling revelation of using a **gasp** shim in the neck pocket . Thanks for wasting my time with your misleading headline .. you rock 👍👍
I have noticed I get some comments from Americans about how I pronounce the “o” in many words as an “o” instead of an “aw”. Apparently Americans like to “pawlish” their paint haha.
I was positive that was Lionel Messi on the thumbnail and I’m now watching in disbelief test it’s not. Obviously I must not be the first to point out this dude is a dead ringer for Messi
I built a T-style Solo kit, and to tell you the truth. Mehhhhhhh. Tuning stability is garbage without swapping the nut, along with tuners.....(which were actual garbage). Pickups were OK. I bought used a $125 Aiersi Tele that is 10 times the instrument.
I hope nobody watching this ever uses an electric drill to tighten neck bolts? How many times do you think you can do that before one strips the neck holes.
@@BradAngove Sure instead of being lazy using a poorly sized bit on your power drill , Tighten those neck screws by hand like your suppose to with the proper sized screw driver . There I elaborated :). I like your videos but showing people how to build or fix things poorly is not great practice . Also shimming the neck like that is kinda a last resort and the neck pocket should have been routed out properly to start with ..
Shimming the neck is a fix. That was the point of the video. It works perfectly well. It’s not what you would do when planning the build of a guitar from scratch, but on a flat setup guitar like this it’s a good option to make this adjustment. The screws are fine and I used the right size bit, so I’m not sure what you’re worried about there or what kind of soft metal screws you’re working with. This task doesn’t need to be done by hand if you know how to use a drill reasonably well. The bit jumping once or twice isn’t going to ruin anything.
Maybe I just know how to use a drill properly. Please feel free to use whatever tools you deem fit. It’s not really any of my business how you handle your guitars.
Pretty sure the guy wanted it!! Such a bad ass axe!
Haha thanks Brad. I really hope you enjoy it.
I sense favouritism here. These guys are both clearly Bradists. Shame on you both. Lol.
I'm interested in building kits adhd selling for a profit. Wuart kinda pricing can i expect if mine are as good as this one?
It all depends on whether you have something that a particular person wants I think. I’m not sure though; I generally don’t sell my kits. Dan from Guns and Guitars would be a better person to ask.
The last time we talked turns out I had covid well I tested 3 weeks ago past Saturday and showed positive but it really started 4 weeks ago this coming Wednesday and I'm still fighting it brother I'm a little bit overweight it's quite a bit more than a little bit but I'm not going to tell everybody I'm a hundred pounds overweight oops lol and a 47-year smoker so I hope that I don't have a long lasting effects from this crap it's the second time I've had it and this time it knocked the living crap out of me I haven't gotten anything done since you and I talked. I'll take care of my good friend cheers
My buillds usually use neck shims and always use neck screws that pass through the body holes. I use a method from Highline Guitars to determine the proper amount of shim: a straightedge on the frets should rest on the saddle when the saddle is adjusted all the way down. Then raise the saddle for desired action.
Great job as usual. I can’t count how many guitars have come across my bench that went from Zero to Hero by just shimming the neck. Especially in the ‘80s when shredtastic action wasn’t optional. I was the sticky sandpaper guy, a little rectangle right against the neck pocket trimmed to make the corner radius. Shim stock for some reason hadn’t hit the StewMac catalog (it was paper back then) yet. Good stuff, thanks for doing this video and I hope your pet is ok.
Thanks Michael!
Thanks!
Thank you for putting this information out there! I've done an unreal amount of research on improving my action and hadn't found anything like this. I'm so glad I found your channel. I can't imagine what goes into developing skills like these.
Luckily the guitar building community is usually pretty happy to share knowledge, so it’s not too difficult to pick up tricks etc. if you know who to ask.
Great video. Hey Brad, I was looking at some of your early videos ... Man you've come a long way!
Thank you! It’s been an interesting ride haha. I like this better than standing in front of a big black door with a ton of background noise at least.
I think that's an awesome guitar myself.,I remember watching the build...hoping (prayers)4 a speedy recovery for the sick family member
Thank you!
one great tip I've learned - slacken the neck bolts after tuning the guitar and let the strings pull the neck into pocket, then tighten again and retune - did wonders for sustain on my bolt on guitars
Big fan of your channel Brad, you are gifted at finishing guitars 👌🏻
Thank you; I appreciate it.
I have been using 3-in-1 Oil on fretboards for almost 50 years. Works great and the neck won't swell due to humidity afterwards.
Possible carcinogenic concerns from exposure due to long term direct skin contact with petroleum products. Low viscosity UPS grade mineral oil might be a better option. It's the active ingredient in just about every fretboard oil out there except for Fret Doctor, which is made from essential oils.
That guitar is beautiful, brother. Thank you for your time and effort.
Thanks Jeffrey
I like plastic playing cards for shims. A straight edge is useful for dialing in, lay it on the frets, extending to the top of the bridge.
Indeed. That’s a good idea.
Great video. It is amazing that shimming the neck can solve problems at either, or both ends. I prefer tapered shims. They are more expensive, but well worth it. This is the only way to get true 100% contact between the neck and the neck pocket. And don't forget to slightly over size the bolt holes in the body. Very important.
For the amount of actual width these have I’m not sure a tapered shim makes any difference, but I can see why they might in theory.
I realize people will do this many different ways and be happy with the results. The thing to remember is that this takes place close to the end by the truss rod. An important end of the neck. Let me put it this way. When two surfaces are going to be bolted together and these surfaces do not have full co-planar contact, stresses are introduced at that point since the material will deform once they are screwed together. This deformation could affect the truss rod operation or damage the heel. The way to avoid this is by using a full contact tapered shim that will give a non deforming, full contact connection. No gaps, no stress, no deformation. It is not a theory, just best mechanical practice for connections requiring shims. There is an old saying, "never time to do it right, but always time to do it twice." I try do get it right the first time.
Fair enough Dennis. I just don’t think a shim this thin has any chance of damaging the heal or impacting the truss rod. I get what you’re saying from a physics perspective, I just don’t think there’s enough there for a practical impact. It seems to me like suggesting that if you park your car with a piece of cardboard under under one wheel for a while it’ll throw the suspension out of alignment.
@@BradAngove I'm a full time guitar tech, I always taper my shims, my personal belief on it's importance, is that the uneven force applied from the non tapered shim can cause issues with the high frets. Ever played an old bolt on guitar which starts to warp past say the 15th fret, coz they usually all do! Making sure the shim is tapered and applying even pressure will mean that this warping, which can cause dead frets, takes a little longer or is never an issue. It's a small thing, but it is the 'proper' way to do it.
Thanks Joe. I’ve played older guitars with warping issues but they didn’t have shims. Wood can change over time; there’s no doubt. I still don’t think a shim like this is going to be any better or worse, short term or long, than a tapered shim. But, as always, to each their own.
I don’t worry so much about the “right way” to do things on guitars anymore. There’s a lot of old mythology still governing how people work on guitars. For example, some people still think lacquer sounds noticeably better (or at least different) than poly on an electric guitar haha.
Great content as ever Brad and for a very worthy reason. My step daughter’s dog, who we all love as part of the family had emergency surgery for a twisted stomach last week which would have killed him if they hadn’t acted so promptly. He’s well on the mend now but it was a £6.5k bill. Fortunately they have both a brilliant vet and good insurance. So happy your pet is getting better. I’m a big fan of shims where they are needed and love shooting down ‘keyboard warriors’ on FB groups who parrot the myth that they ‘rob tone’ or cause ‘neck hump’. One of my original ‘87 RG550’s has a very cool ibanez branded cardboard shim! Keep up the great content buddy.
Thank you Simon. Sorry to hear that the dog needed surgery, but I’m glad he was taken care of!
Yes, dispelling guitar myths has become a bit of a pastime of mine on occasion haha.
thoughts and prayers for the surgery. Hope all went as it should!
Thank you; I appreciate it. All seems to have gone well.
I’ve literally just had to shim my latest partscaster for the same reason. Finally got it right!
Glad to hear it’s good now!
Great tips as usual! All my best to you and your pet! Take care!
Thank you Ed
You are the Man Brad. Practical application, straight forward info.
Thank you
great paint! It looks great in the closeups
Thank you
Probably the most common thing I do in my shop for this issue. When I run out of stewmac angled shims, a strip of sandpaper works fine.
All the best to you pet, Brad!
Thank you Ryan
I've had that very problem and I smoke Marlboro Lights in the Box and I took the neck off and I tore some of the cardboard from the Marlboro box and I sent them against the body all the way in the pocket and that brought the headstock back and I did it to where I had to raise the bridge to get the strings to stop spreading out that was 40 years ago and they're still in that neck and is still plays better than any guitar I have ever picked up at guitar music center or anywhere it's a Fender Stratocaster
Very nice George
Strangest thing I ever personally saw used as a shim was a matchbook cover. Nice to see it done correctly. Sorry about your pet, hopefully all is well now. Keep sharing tips.......
Thank you. That is a weird one for sure haha.
I always used my cigarette pack cuz I've been smoking cigarettes from a box pack for years and years and years and that's why I always use the shim them and I just tear a piece of the cardboard from the cigarette box and see what it does. I'd lower the bridges down all the way so I knew I'd have enough movement and then shim it until it fretted out real bad and there you go of course before you put the strings back on you should do a fret leveling job on the neck then put strings back on
Brad thanks for the video, sorry about your pet - hope all goes well.
Thanks Dan.
Nice finish Brad. If I could suggest something? Invest in an impact driver instead of that drill. It affords you better control and has a built in torque limiter. A 12v model is all you need.
Thanks; I have one. I just tend to use the same drill for everything because it’s fast and handy haha.
@@BradAngove I find that I end up using the drill for holes only. The battery lasts longer in the impact and I get better control over fasteners with a lot less stripping out. I learned this working in swimming pools where most screws go into some plastic or other softer materials.
Isn't the function basically the same on the drill by rotating the torque setting on the neck of the drill? (which I see his drill has) I know the difference between an impact driver and drill, but if we are talking about simply limiting the torque, does the impact driver still have an advantage?
Nice Brad. So many necks need shimming and there are so many ways to go about it. Thank you for showing the way you do it. Hope everything works out with the surgery! ✌️ & 💕
Thanks Todd
Is there any advantage or disadvantage to using a shim over changing the angle of the pocket with router jig or chisel? Other than the fact that you can't easily replace wood once it is gone. I had to shim the neck on my Schecter and I read that shims would decrease the value of the guitar.
Some people would probably argue that changing the angle allows for better contact between parts, which they think will increase sustain.
I don’t think it makes any difference as long as you have the skills to do a good job of the angle change and you’re not removing wood that you need (aka neck isn’t too low in the pocket). However, if I were concerned about the value decrease I would do a tapered shim the full size of the pocket, test it, and then glue it in.
@@BradAngove Thanks for taking the time to answer me. I really appreciate it!
Thanks Brad, a good show about neck which is essentially the foundation of any guitar. We can install toonie sized pots and cloth covered wires and $1,000 worth of pickups and a 2 pound stainless steel bridge and golden saddles. But it's all trash if ONE fret is too high or the neck pocket begs a piece of onion skin paper to smarten up the action. You mentored me into guitar refinishing a few year ago. I have gotten pretty good at it (I hope). I had trbl at 1st with rushing it, not allowing sufficient "time between coats". But that's all good now. I'm all Rustoleum. Period. Thanks for your help!
Cheers; I’m glad you’ve found the videos helpful.
Enjoyed the quick polish and shim work. I like your guitar, but I'm partial to maple fretboards. :)
Thanks Paul. Finished maple?
Iv used large c clamp ..clamp the neck into the pocket...string up both E strings ..and make the adjustments before screwing down the neck
Good stuff, nice guitar, hope things go well at the vets, take care, Mark.
Thanks Mark
Right on Brad
I dig it! You don’t see many guitars with the back of the neck painted same as the body and I’m not sure why fender won’t do it not even on limited edition guitars I just don’t get it! Ibanez Roadstars were like that! I have this problem with high action by the neck pick up on a couple guitars!
I don’t think fender has their stuff really set up to paint necks.
Love these videos thanks. Is there a video on here in which your repair deep scratches. I've got an Epiphone LP in poly and someone scratched it through to the timber on the body. I want to know what my options are.
I don’t think I did a video on it, but on a poly finish I would generally do a little bit of color (on a fine brush) and then use some starbond super glue to fill the scratch. Then I would scrape it flat with a razor blade, spot sand very fine, and polish.
Interesting tapered scalloping in the high traffic zone, cool idea!
Thanks Trevor
Can you do a tutorial on painting a guitar with a set neck with spray cans
Yeah I’ve done quite a few of those.
Drilling from neck pocket out to finish? Not predrilling shim? Jumping PH bit out of screws when torquing?
Are any of these actually supposed to be questions?
Best wishes to your pet for a good recovery! Some things in life are more important than guitars.
Thanks Michael
Great video...i just realized that this might be the solution to a problem I'm having with my tele...the saddles are adjusted way down and the adjustment screws bite into my hand i think if i shim the neck up a bit i could adjust the bridge saddles up as well...worth a shot anyway...
Yeah that should work just fine.
Killer Job Perfection as always 👍👍🎶🎶🎸
Thank you John
Got any tricks for when bass side has way more relief than treble side when put under tension (with flat 13s)? If I adjust the truss rod for the treble side the bass side still has too much bow.
Have you tried adjusting the saddle down on that side?
Hey I'm not sure if it was you but did you offer custom pick guards if you do how can I easily find them, please and thank you
Hi Jeffrey, yes that’s me. Angoveguitars.com has my “stock” models or you can email me at Brad.angove@gmail.com if you need something bespoke or that isn’t on the website.
@@BradAngove thanks
This video came just in time for me! Edit: where can I get the shims?
I think solo and stewmac both sell them.
They are offering shims at StewMac, great stuff, expensive als allways, but perfect. You‘re SO right with the screeholes!!! But the screw you are using has a flat upper part, that would work in a tight hole too. (what sounds a little weird…)
Nice job Brad. You shimmied around and screwed that neck like a pro. I actually need to shim my Les Paul copy. I put a Fishman Triple Play Connect Midi Pickup on it and it raised the action significantly. Thankfully the Les Paul (ish) guitar I own has a bolt on neck so I'll just get some balsa wood and shape it before I put it on. Have to make sure the neck angle is optimum. By the way, the Fishman Triple Play is an Awesome Midi system. You can trigger beats, different instruments, loops or even an entire orchestra by plucking a single note. It's also great for transposing to a DAW while you're playing in real time. A great songwriting and practice tool. You should do a review of one on your channel. Hit Fishman up or charge it to the company. Brad The Luthier Corp. Not to be confused with Bob the Builder.
I’m not familiar with those. Do they get mounted under the bridge? I’ll have a look. Maybe fishman will help me out with that, but as you probably know by now I’m not exactly a talented guitarist/songwriter haha. I may have to bring in some help to demo it.
@@BradAngove Yeah it has a pickup which mounts directly near the bridge on the pickup's side. I'm sure Fishman would help you out. Grab another one for me while you're at it. Ha ha ha ha.
This is why I just build guitars with neck angles. It’s a little more math in the build and a lot less hassle in the setup
Hi Brad, I have upgraded cheap single coil pickup ceramic magnets with neodymium bar magnets (60x10x3mm) in many guitars and the tone is a vast improvement, have you done this or can you make a video doing this and let people know your expert opinion. Thanks.
Hi Peter, I’ve done a few pickup upgrades and you can see me do them in most of my kit builds. Often I end up doing things like switching for single coils in my tele builds (including this one) to instead putting in humbuckers. I expect I will do more of those types of upgrades, although I am no pickup expert. Dylan talks tone is probably the guy to ask about that.
Thats an awesome guitar...
Thank you
Hello Brad not sure if you made video of it its just a lot of them :D. I have old guitar that was originally white but it turned into that ugly yellowish color after time, what should i do make it nice white color again and maybe prevent it from going yellow in the future if its possible? Thank you in advance.
Sand it back a bit, paint it white again, and then use a clear coat that doesn’t yellow. Acrylic lacquer is probably a good option.
If it buzzes on the high frets with a couple soda can shims does that mean it needs fretwork I won't settle for high action
It could be a truss rod adjustment, but more like needs the bridge raised a touch or some fret work. It doesn’t hurt to level the high frets down a touch either.
@@BradAngove the trust rod on this neck is the one where the neck needs to be taken off to adjust it. It was the 19th 20th 21st 22nd 24 fret rasing the floyd rose from the zero point didn't help I tried 1 through 4 shims.
If you have buzz there then a shim is the opposite of what you need. I’d start by removing the shims, and then if necessary level those down slightly.
I have a Solo "LP" kit with several of my business cards shimming the neck. Have you tried any of the Stew-Mac kits?
I’ve never done a stewmac kit. I’m not sure I could afford one haha
@@BradAngove They had them on sale in July and they weren't bad at all. VERY comparable to the Solo kits.
Edit: The Tele-style kit is $189.99 for now.
cool stuff dude.. what was that song you were playing when you had just strung up the guitar? 1 finger picking .. pretty cool
That wasn’t a song (as far as I know); I was just messing around.
I have a bag of ivory key tops from an old piano I use for neck shims. A little copper shielding tape to hold it in place. You're mistaken about neck pocket fitment side-to-side not mattering to the function of the guitar. Totally matters. Excellent opportunity to learn to shim that direction also. If you put your cordless on the neck screw, it'll drill out any hanging-up in the body. No need for a drill bit. EDIT: The first time you strip out a neck hole using a cordless will cure you of that bad habit.
We'd really like to see some pictures of your animal in need of surgery. It'd make a big difference in clearing out your inventory.
Thanks Rich. I have to disagree with you about the side-to-side element, and I may at some point do a video proving it (I’ve played a guitar with just a “tongue” for the heel instead of a full pocket and it was great). I appreciate your support. I may post a picture of the pet on Instagram if you follow me there.
@@BradAngove "great" doesn't equal "superior" or "beyond improvement" in American English. Not familiar with the Canadian translation.
I didn’t say it was superior. I said the side fit doesn’t really matter; which would make it equivalent. I also didn’t say it was beyond improvement. The proper inference from me saying the side fit doesn’t really matter would be that it is not an improvement or a detriment one way or the other. That goes for every dialect of English that I’m familiar with.
I wanna make my own evh guitar and I was wondering if rustEloum Enamel paint is any good
It’s certainly an option. Not a typical one for guitars, but I’ve used it on a few for sure.
@@BradAngove and would just crystal clear enamel be a good top layer to protect the paint
Yes, that generally works just fine.
@@BradAngove thanks you helped a lot
Great video. I hope your pet is doing better. That's a cool looking guitar. Go KANAYDIA!🇨🇦
Thanks Brian. She is improving.
I think It would be much better if you used a file and took some of the front edge of the pocket instead of using a shim, like an 1/8th or so. I normally stretch a string from the nut to the bridge with the saddle adjusted to its lowest point and file the pocket until the string just touches the last fret then install inserts and actual bolts not screws. I t seems to work the best for me and I get solid wood to wood contact for best sustain and no gap at the pocket. Cool looking guitar for a kit build.
Thanks. I don’t think this creates a gap that is capable of changing anything, so I would stick with this method simply because it is so much easier and doesn’t creat a risk of making the bottom of the pocket uneven. As with all things though: do whatever works for you.
You'll never in a million years achieve a flat surface by filing. Shimming is the best way, unless you can set up a router or similar machine tool to generate a flat surface at exactly the right angle. I agree with the use of inserts and machine screws. They improve the neck joint immeasurably.
@@ParaBellum2024 I get so close it's not even measurable. The string will tell you how close you are so yes you can get as good as any router. Use the right file and it's perfect plus years of experience helps :)
Hi Brad, I read somewhere that it’s best to use a shim that goes for the full length of the neck pocket and is tapered so it’s thinner at the headstock end of the neck pocket. It’s something to do with their being a gap between neck and neck pocket where there is no shim as you have done here. What are your thoughts on this? I’ve got a Squier CV 70 Jaguar that I’m thinking of shimming so would be interested in how you view the process of shimming.
There’s nothing wrong with that option except that you would perhaps see a bit of the shim. People believe a lot of things like that in guitar building for some reason and most of them make no practical difference. Particularly in an electric guitar that gap will not make any difference that we would be able to discern.
How can we contribute a little to help your pet?
It’s kind of you to ask. One of my viewers sent a donation for that purpose to my PayPal, which is in the description (Brad.angove@gmail.com), which was a very nice surprise.
To be clear though; I’ll make sure she’s taken care of regardless. I don’t want people to think that they have to help or she won’t get what she needs. She had the surgery. I’m just trying to make sure I can deal with the credit card bill now haha.
Everytime I drill out the neck screw holes in the body, it chips out the bottom side and looks like crap.
I’m sure there are some good videos around about preventing tear out while drilling. Have you tried starting on the bottom side instead?
I've tried it both ways. One video recommended drilling from the top. I did one recently and put tape on the bottom and the hole were clean@@BradAngove
Awsome Ive found guitar picks in neck pockets
That would probably work just fine.
Why not simply lower the saddles? Are they already as low as they can go?
If the angle is inadequate the saddles would end up being too low. Either bottomed out, or at least low enough that the set screws would come through the top and may be uncomfortable.
@@BradAngove Yeah, I agree with that. Just wanted to confirm that this is the reason.
Hi I have jem jr,and I am on low E 2.5mm high E 1.5mm but I'd like low E to be 2mm to feel comfortable!! I have spent days trying to adjust kneck taking it slow tuning every turn I make but makes no difference still I get abit of buzz,only on my low E A strings it's really annoying please help me I'm only wanting to come down on low E bye 0.5mm and it wont let me due to buzz any ideas
What part of the fretboard are you getting the buzz?
@@BradAngove first 3 fretts E A strings low,,then from fretts 12th 13th 14th onwards buddy it's not the worst but its noticeable and it's not even low action I'm only dropping to 19mm 2mm soon as I go too 2.5mm it goes away but I would like it down to 2mm atleast to feel comfortable
Have you changed the string gauge at all?
@@BradAngove I changed strings same gauge 9s and shim my locking nut height,its reading from frett 1 2 3 about 1,2mm? Is that high,I have jem jr ibenez its brand new frets are all new seems no uneaven fretts checked them,it had all over buzz when I had got the guitar until I raised up the bridge and mucked about with the kneck,not slot of kneck relief to muck about with
@@BradAngove do u think 10s would help if I put em on
Cardboard from a cereal box works just as well as a shim of wood, though I sort of cheated and soaked it in PVA glue and let it dry before I used it. End result was the same. I hope your pet is ok. Love your videos.
Thanks Terry. That’s a good idea.
I like the rivets.
Glad to hear it.
Man, I wish I could string my guitars that fast!
Haha yeah I figured the video was plenty long already.
Nice job on the guitar. A side note, understand you need to take care of your pup.
My wife and I have always found a reputable pet insurance is prudent at most every juncture.
In fact our dogs are better insured than us...lol.
Was your sweet dog covered?
We don’t have coverage. I did the math on one of ours and determined that the premiums didn’t make sense for us. I’m not sure how the insurance policies here in Canada compare to yours though.
how much is guitar like this tele ??
You mean the kit? Or the finished product?
🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣 I had no wood and filed an old bank card and cut it to size and it did the job perfectly 🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘cool vid 🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘
Nice!
Cracking tele Brad enjoyed the build of this one! Is the wife also telling you to get rid of all your "junk as they call it" out of the house? Lol 😆
Actually I’m usually telling her to get rid of her junk haha.
I like it
Thanks
Hope the critter is OK!!
She is improving rapidly.
Man I can't even begin to express my heartfelt sympathy for what you're going through with your furry family member. I really, truly hope they can save him/her. I've been there too so I feel it totally.
Is there a donation site available to help you out?
If not, will you consider serring one up? I'll pledge $50 right now. I know it's not a lot, but it's a start.
By the way that's such a cool guitar, but this is about your family right now so let us know how we can help.
Thank you; that’s very kind of you. She has had her surgery and is doing well, so I’m grateful for that. Now I’m just trying to make it a little easier on myself to pay the credit card bill haha.
I don’t have a site for this in particular, but if you would like to help you are welcome to donate via PayPal to Brad.angove@gmail.com
This would usually go to help support the channel, but in this case it would go to paying off the surgery. Either way I appreciate the sentiment and thank you for watching the video.
I like your Tele.
Thanks
credit cards work good for neck shims as well.
Good idea; thanks.
Good job. Sorry about the pet. I just found out mine needs about 1500 worth of dental work.
But the real world of working on guitars is not quite the same as what you're doing.. I have one to be worked on that shows the reason. It's a 1998 faded cherry Epi SG. Headstock is broken off along the side of the 1 2 3 strings. Not a hard fix but the guitar has been played hard and put away wet for 24 f'ing years. I need a hazmat suit and cleaning area setup before I even touch it. It's more normal then working on a pristine almost new guitar.
That sounds like quite the project. I think BigDGuitars has quite a few videos on things like that.
we need a video on how to scallop a guitar neck the right way using basic tools.
if you dont do the video then who will???
You mean a full normal scallop job?
@@BradAngove
Yes sir. All w/o using expensive tools. I know you got this.
Yeah, it’s pretty straightforward. I’ll see if an appropriate project arises for it.
@@BradAngove
That would be cool. Been watching you since the very start. Best how to guitar channel on the web and UA-cam period
That guitar looks like the Dr. Feelgood album cover. ;)
The ceramic tile photo?
@@BradAngove Yeah it has that Hospital color.
I missed what you said about patreon. Would you please let me know what episode that was on? Well I just can't shut up today can I Brad LOL been like this ever since the 6th of June when I was 59 I wouldn't like this but midnight when I turned 60 I had started forgetting things I have had things happening I'd rather not discuss and what was I saying?? See what I mean LMAO
You can't really beat a bolt-on neck for practicality. Re-setting a glued joint is a major hassle, and god help you if you have a neck-through with a bad angle due to warpage or something, because you're basically buying the guitar twice if you pay to have it fixed.
I agree. Bolt on just makes more sense.
Somehow I got unsubscribed from everybody if there is a problem with the payment from my card please let me know Brad I was wondering what happened. Hey I've got a project here and then I could use a little bit of your time one-on-one wouldn't take but 10 minutes or so it's about airbrushing thunder and lightning coming from the clouds into the pickups on mahogany Gibson SG that is bare wood. I need to seal the wood with something as compatible with the paint I'm using in my airbrush and it's compatible with the clear and hardener that I have and they both have to be compatible with a clear that I have to use to seal the wood you see my dilemma I have the materials but I don't know if they're going to be all compatible because that's going to be a lot of work and it's going to be absolutely beautiful cuz I'm going to put three clear coats on the completed picture and then I'm going to highlight the lightning with a close thin Center Line which will be three layers of clear from the original artwork I'll do that after I let sand the clear and then I'm going to put three more coats of clear on it and that should give the lightning somewhat of a 3D effect and make it pop a little more but I've got to make sure everything's compatible and I don't have a clue but we would almost have to talk to one another so I can let you know what I have and you can let me know what I need I know that it's not your normal thing for you to call any of your subscribers but Brad, I really really need your help cuz this project is very very important. If by a miracle you want to call me let me know I will give you my number and no one will ever know that we discussed anything other than here. And most importantly I will eat the piece of paper your number will be on and I will set the phone on self-destruct to get rid of the number LOL. Your old buddy needs some help. I did turn 60 just last month tomorrow so give an old geezer some wisdom would you
Hi George, do you already have the paint for this project or are you looking for recommendations on compatible options?
@@BradAngove thanks a lot for your answer it's 5:45 here right now so when I'm a little more awake here in a couple of hours I'll tell you what I've got if that's okay
@@BradAngove yeah I already have like the clear that I have came from Custom pans in Florida they get it from the UK and that's the paint I was telling you about it's in a rattle can and you pull the pin on the bottom of it and it releases the hardener that's like good for about 24 hours after that cuz I wanted to use some hardener as a sealer so the wood grain would really pop like you said it probably would with what just using a clear on it. They told me down there where I got that at that I had to use a kind of poly with it as a sealer because I wouldn't get the artwork done with your hair brush before that sealer got done because I would still have to put three coats on it and sand it down and put my other three coats on it I wouldn't have time so I better use a different sealer. Now the paint for my airbrush is a water base acrylic which I'm assuming if that Polly is dry the airbrush paint would be okay and as long as I let it dry 100% to where the water was 100% evaporated that I could just seal it inside with the other clear. And I was just wondering if what I'm doing is going to be okay because I'm going to make my lightning bolts wide and not super bright it's going to be more of the glow on my first application the pulley airbrush back you know and put my three coats of clear on it and then move up on lightning bolts with a real brake light and move in closer and follow them in the center with the actual lightning bolt to give it a little bit of a 3d effect and then put my last three coats of clear on it and then do my finish work on it do you think that's going to work out all right I can't find anybody around here this has any knowledge whatsoever about what's going on in the paint world I guess everything I've learned I've learned from you and a airbrush fell out of you probably know who I'm talking about please a fantastic teacher and stuff. Hey I hope your puppy dog or whatever your pet was that you had to have emergency surgery on is doing well! I have my two wiener dogs I think I told you about them before it will with me when my wife was killed and everything back 2012 and they're like children I know how close you can be to him Brad. I hope it's your buddies doing okay. But that's about the size of things going on but I'm just wondering if the poly sealer and the water-based acrylic airbrush paint and the way I'm going to apply it and then put whatever that clear is that is only compatible with polymer base while I would imagine I guess it's probably base clear if they would all be along on my masterpieces LOL I sure do appreciate everything that you've taught me in the last 2-3 years without you even knowing it and that's a damn nice guitar and that's beautiful work you did on it too by the way I'll talk to you later buddy and thanks again for getting back with me Brad I sure appreciate it. Cheers my brother. I'm an old hillbilly that's why I call you my brother LOL cuz in my eyes you are
@@BradAngove no reply I just sent you of course it's talk to text you know always use it but I hope you can make sense because I'm not feeling the best I got some crap in my lungs it just it's got me not feeling too good but I hope you can make sense of what I wrote cuz I didn't proofread it too good I know I said crazy pans instead of crazy cans
Hi George, I think I understand what you’re after. Are you looking to have any tint to your sealer to help the grain pop? If so, I would go with shellac. Get it all sealed up with shellac and give it a few days to dry. Then sand with 600 grit to get everything smooth and then you can do your lightning work.
For the clear coat between layers of lightning you’re looking for a mid-coat clear. Spraymax for example makes an acrylic 1k clear that works well as a mid-coat.
I use my older business cards from 4 jobs ago.
"Trick" ?
That's not a "trick" , that's a simple , common setup procedure that even an amateur knows how to do .
I’m not sure that what you’re saying is mutually exclusive with it being a trick. I didn’t say it was a secret.
@@BradAngove lol .. you basically said " watch my video to learn an AWESOME TRICK to make your guitar play better" .. then crapped the bed with the startling revelation of using a **gasp** shim in the neck pocket . Thanks for wasting my time with your misleading headline .. you rock 👍👍
You’re welcome. Any time buddy.
Canadians. They sound so American, usually, until they say "process" or "sorry" or "Toronto." 😁
I hope your pet is going to be okay.
I have noticed I get some comments from Americans about how I pronounce the “o” in many words as an “o” instead of an “aw”. Apparently Americans like to “pawlish” their paint haha.
@@BradAngove Maybe something about Polish jokes.
This man is Lionel Messi
I was positive that was Lionel Messi on the thumbnail and I’m now watching in disbelief test it’s not. Obviously I must not be the first to point out this dude is a dead ringer for Messi
Well I see now that we do it the same way but I bet I did it before you did!! LOL
I bet you’re right haha
Quick trick for a bolt on
Yes. It’s pretty much just bridge height on a set neck unless you adjust it when you’re doing the glue up.
Hope your pet is ok, Brad.
Thanks Christian
you can use a old credit card, plastic card as a shim,,,
Linseed oil
I built a T-style Solo kit, and to tell you the truth. Mehhhhhhh. Tuning stability is garbage without swapping the nut, along with tuners.....(which were actual garbage). Pickups were OK.
I bought used a $125 Aiersi Tele that is 10 times the instrument.
Coins never recommended.
I’d be a touch concerned about them just digging into the wood, but they’d still do the job I would think.
@@BradAngove Exactly they'd dig into the pocket and neck.
I hope nobody watching this ever uses an electric drill to tighten neck bolts? How many times do you think you can do that before one strips the neck holes.
As many times as I want. My drill has torque settings haha.
Yeah there you go lol. You ruined the screws..
Care to elaborate?
@@BradAngove Sure instead of being lazy using a poorly sized bit on your power drill , Tighten those neck screws by hand like your suppose to with the proper sized screw driver . There I elaborated :). I like your videos but showing people how to build or fix things poorly is not great practice . Also shimming the neck like that is kinda a last resort and the neck pocket should have been routed out properly to start with ..
Shimming the neck is a fix. That was the point of the video. It works perfectly well. It’s not what you would do when planning the build of a guitar from scratch, but on a flat setup guitar like this it’s a good option to make this adjustment.
The screws are fine and I used the right size bit, so I’m not sure what you’re worried about there or what kind of soft metal screws you’re working with. This task doesn’t need to be done by hand if you know how to use a drill reasonably well. The bit jumping once or twice isn’t going to ruin anything.
Ouch never use a hand drill plsss
I’m not sure why it would matter to you what kind of drill I use, but I use a hand drill for many things.
Using tools like that can damage wood, and yes it matters to me coz I do handle my guitars proper care not force, and Im a musician maybe u are not
Maybe I just know how to use a drill properly.
Please feel free to use whatever tools you deem fit. It’s not really any of my business how you handle your guitars.
Thanks!
Thanks Michael; I appreciate it.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Thanks!
Thanks!