Wow , One of the BEST JOB'S ON ALL OF YT. ...out of the fifty I've watched , there are three others using simulator type stencil methods for multi cam. Beautiful work 😍🏆
Question, when you spray the paint on does it not get into the ejection port and other areas like where the trigger kit goes? If so, does it affect it at all or do you go back and use sand paper to remove the paint from those sections?
Everything is completely disassembled, degreased, and abrasive blasted so the coating is applied to all areas. It does not affect tolerances of any of the internals.
Any parts we plan to coat for the project we do independently. To match the pattern, we line them up when stenciling and match the pattern from part to part. Hope that makes sense.
Yes. The black parts wont look good after you do the prep. Also, the darkest color on this pattern is the top color and we layer in reverse order so it goes down first. Hope that makes sense.
Very cool. I was thinking of doing a foliage spray until I saw someone paint their gun in Multicam Black, now I don't know what to choose. I'm thinking of making a Multicam Gray with these stencils, something a bit lighter for daytime use but more of a concrete color scheme for the city, or just use whatever flat camouflage colors Rust-Oleum provides.
You can use either one. The Mini HVLP will cover more area faster, while the Airbrush will allow you to get finer details. For this project, the Mini HVLP would be the better option for the solid colors, and the Airbrush for the gradients.
It depends on the product your using, but we recommend doing a quick flash cure for 5-10 minutes at about 180 degrees between coats to speed up the process. We save the full cure for the end after everything is complete!
I got these stencils and have started painting mine. I’m using spray paint though. My base has a chalk feel and I think it made it hard for some of the stencils to stay when in curved area. I applied the dark brown today. How long should I let it cure between the different colors? I’m currently waiting 24 hours each color. Also I love these videos they are very simple and informative.
Excellent. I used your stencils to paint my first multicam rifle and it came out great. Very good video series, at what PSI is it spraying out of your airbrush?
@@FreedomStencils Thanks a bunch! I've been trying to do a few pieces in the pattern/ color scheme, but they aren't really colors or shapes that are common. Excited to see what you guys come up with!
Oh, two more things I figured out that may be of help: 1. The hardest color to get right is the light mossy, almost bluish green. 2. The color palette for Tropic is based on a palm tree.
@@FreedomStencils So after some more research, I found out that if you're using Cerakote, the colors are as follows: "Multicam Dark Green" is the mossy color, despite the name. Lol "Plum Brown" is the reddish brown. "Mil Spec Green" is the darkest green color. "Multicam Bright Green" is the neon green color. "Multicam Olive" is the tan color. They offer a Multicam Swatch set you can buy to color match with if you don't use their products. Hope this helps!
If you are air curing we recommend waiting a few hours. If you heat cure, then we usually bake the project until the stencils start to roll on their own and then remove them right after the parts come out of the oven while they are still pliable.
This technique can be used with any paint or coating but some of course work better than others. The gradients for example, are easier to apply with a mini HVLP sprayer or air brush where you can control the spray pattern.
Late comment i guess but i have searched a good painting video for this reason. I would simply use the multicam tropic colors and do the exact same as in the video.
Hey could you guys please demonstrate some type of desert camo? You guys have alot but no desert stripe, or desert type of camos. Something that may look good on like a m110. I have a ar10 with a 20 inch barrel and an a2 stock and I have done 2 of your guys multicams I did scorpion and m81 on 2 other guns. Now I need to do my ar10 and want something diffrent from those colors so I don't even know what colors I need or what stencil I need yet. But please if u get a chance
Thank you for these awesome products dude! How hard is the digital pattern for a rookie? And what kind of prep work would you recommend for polymer parts only? I'm planning to do the Marine's MARPAT pattern/colors on an the Archangel CQB chassis for the M1A
It's simple. It's a multi-layered painting. Example: take your gun, paint it completely white and that's your base colour. Now add these stencils (basically preshaped ducktape) and paint over everything in black. Remove the stencils; your gun will be black with white spots on where the stencil was applied.
Love it your work looks great, I do have one question about tack time, I’ve had issues with that step, if I get it perfect it works great but if I don’t allow enough time between layers my cerakote fades into one another I can usually live with that (might be a shade darker or lighter green or fde I can see the small difference while other will never pay attention haha) but when I cure too long the Cerakote isn’t as durable on the outer layers. I may be too picky for myself, but what would you suggest for that magic time.
Sorry for the delayed response. So we just mean covering about 50% of the surface with the stencils and leaving about 50% exposed for the next coat of paint/coating.
That's tough because every product manufacturer has different names for similar colors. We give generic names to get the concept across. For dialing in the colors, we recommend getting color matching in person or from swatches if possible for the product(s) you intend to use. Some paint and coating companies may be able to give some good recommendations as well.
I used Testors Spray enamel in 3oz cans. Dried and adhered better than the Krylon camo colors from Home Depot. Go to hobby lobby for testors way cheaper than Amazon. 🤙🏼
After every coat before applying the next stencil, do you cure it in the oven? If so how long? If not, how long do you cure it at room temperature? Thank you 🙏🏻
Cerakote and Duracote make both types so if you don’t have an oven you can still get the job done. The sand blasting is unavoidable though. There’s a UA-cam video about an easy method of converting a Gatorade bottle into a blasting gun and it works better than any Harbor Freight type version I’ve tried.
As a note duracoat cerakote have their advantages. If you’re pleb. like myself rustoleum and krylon work fine the key is to give each color layer its full recommended 72 hour cure time before applying stencils shapes and new colors. Yes it makes it take forever but without a blast media booth or oven etc. it gets the job done.
Mostly tape or stencils has a hard time sticking or will peel up paint when removed because of off gassing. The evaporation pushes the tape off or lack of proper off gassing fails to let the paint adhere properly. The paint he’s using he notes has an off gassing period and an oven cure. If you watch closely his stencils some of the edges are coming up. I’ve use that stencil material before and have not been impressed. I like making my own with green Frog Tape. I layer it to whatever width I need on a cutting mat and then just use an exacto knife. Over prep makes a big difference too. I have an inexpensive HVLP with a I quart cup. I hose the work piece down with acetone and mineral spirits then dish soap and simple green then rinse with deionized water then compressed air to dry
I’m kinda confused about oil from your fingers while applying the stencils. Why didn’t you wear gloves or did you take some other measures to prevent residue?
Oils and residue are most important before the base coat as they can prevent adhesion. After the base coat is on, all other layers are cosmetic. These additional layers of coating will also interact with with the base layer aiding in adhesion. So wearing gloves during the stenciling process is not needed. It would of course always be better, but is not necessary, and is near impossible to work with.
Flat tipped tweezers and a “folding bone” will allow you to avoid contact. It does take a bit of practice. You’re still wearing gloves but then You’re not sticking the stencils to you gloves.
Here I was trying to do a basic Rattlecan paint job, but this time with some stencils. This was definitely more complex and extensive than I thought. Lol, back to simplicity for me then 😅
@@FreedomStencils hopefully you do it soon because that’s my soon to be upcoming project and I’d love to see how you guys do it first so I have a better idea on color layers. Cheers!
Hello. We use Cerakote and/or DuraCoat products in our video demonstrations and flash cure between coats at 180 degrees for 5-10 minutes with a full bake cure at the end after the stencils are removed.
Duracoat and Cerakote are the most well respected but as noted in the video you do need to blast the parts with an abrasive media before application. Both coatings have air cure versions as well as oven cure so make sure you get the right version whether you’ve an oven or not etc.
All you need is an exacto knife Blu scotch tape, BLU not just blue. Frog tape is fantastic as well but BLU loves wet paint A cutting Mat These days you can just pocket that shit from Walmart 😂 or it’ll cost like $13
So I understand that you said Multicam type of pattern but there is a couple of flaws if Multicam is to be done. 1 you didn't use 7 colors, Multicam has 7 colors, 3 greens, 3 browns, and a almost white color. You used six and also used only 2 browns one of which is supposed to be faded with another like the greens but opposite direction which wasn't done, plus ONE sheet, depending on the project, is all that's really needed you can use the discarded webing as a stencil for the later parts
Sometimes it adds a nice touch, and sometimes its better without. Its a personal preference for sure, but we like to demonstrate it in the videos to give everyone options!
I’m generally with yah I’ve not the money or space for a proper duracoat or cerakote job just remember to let each of you color layers dry properly. Also a cheap gravity fed HVLP gun from your local “big box” hardware store with 1:1:1 acetone:mineral spirits:Xylene gets all your grease and oil and lube off then a 1/3 simple green to 2/3 water solution to remove remaining solvent residue then just plain water to make sure all the simple green is gone.
It kind of depends on the product you're using because most companies use different naming conventions, but your mostly going for Black, Dark Grey, and hint of Green. ua-cam.com/video/uNbTKOTO3fc/v-deo.html
![Painting with Stencils! [A Multicam Arid Attempt]](/img/n.gif)
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Wow , One of the BEST JOB'S ON ALL OF YT. ...out of the fifty I've watched , there are three others using simulator type stencil methods for multi cam. Beautiful work 😍🏆
Question, when you spray the paint on does it not get into the ejection port and other areas like where the trigger kit goes? If so, does it affect it at all or do you go back and use sand paper to remove the paint from those sections?
Everything is completely disassembled, degreased, and abrasive blasted so the coating is applied to all areas. It does not affect tolerances of any of the internals.
@@FreedomStencils thank you. I appreciate the response.
@@jayc3303they are not painting over the coating it looks like they took off layer(s) from the upper and lower.
So how do you get matching parts? Do you also paint the accessories, rail, grip, buttstock and buffer tube separately?
Any parts we plan to coat for the project we do independently. To match the pattern, we line them up when stenciling and match the pattern from part to part. Hope that makes sense.
is there a reason why u do the lightest on first? cuz i have a black thing to paint and it would make sence for me to start with the darkest
Yes. The black parts wont look good after you do the prep. Also, the darkest color on this pattern is the top color and we layer in reverse order so it goes down first. Hope that makes sense.
I really enjoyed this it was satisfying. These colors!
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed it!
Very cool. I was thinking of doing a foliage spray until I saw someone paint their gun in Multicam Black, now I don't know what to choose. I'm thinking of making a Multicam Gray with these stencils, something a bit lighter for daytime use but more of a concrete color scheme for the city, or just use whatever flat camouflage colors Rust-Oleum provides.
Question... are you using Cerakote in the airbrush kit in this vid? Does it hold up fine using an airbrush vs a normal sprayer?
You can use either one. The Mini HVLP will cover more area faster, while the Airbrush will allow you to get finer details. For this project, the Mini HVLP would be the better option for the solid colors, and the Airbrush for the gradients.
Absolutely great look. Are you heat curing between each set of colors and stencils? Are you rubbing with the steel wool after heat curing?
It depends on the product your using, but we recommend doing a quick flash cure for 5-10 minutes at about 180 degrees between coats to speed up the process. We save the full cure for the end after everything is complete!
I am down buying the stencils👍but is there a color guide if I am using spray paint?😂what's the part number of the paints you used in this tutorial?🤔
Great video. How long to cure between coats and spplication of new stencil layers?
I got these stencils and have started painting mine. I’m using spray paint though. My base has a chalk feel and I think it made it hard for some of the stencils to stay when in curved area. I applied the dark brown today. How long should I let it cure between the different colors? I’m currently waiting 24 hours each color. Also I love these videos they are very simple and informative.
Thank you. Glad you enjoy the videos.
Excellent. I used your stencils to paint my first multicam rifle and it came out great. Very good video series, at what PSI is it spraying out of your airbrush?
We spray at about 35PSI
Which stencil kit did you use? The website has a lot of options
Please do a video for Multicam Tropic!! Looking at the gear i have its different than regular Multicam. Great work; keep it up!
Thanks. That is on our list. We have a couple in the works already, but that one is not to far off.
@@FreedomStencils Thanks a bunch! I've been trying to do a few pieces in the pattern/ color scheme, but they aren't really colors or shapes that are common. Excited to see what you guys come up with!
Oh, two more things I figured out that may be of help:
1. The hardest color to get right is the light mossy, almost bluish green.
2. The color palette for Tropic is based on a palm tree.
@@Ryan_222 Roger that. Yeah, the pattern doesn't really change, its getting the colors dialed in and in what order to apply them to pull off the look.
@@FreedomStencils So after some more research, I found out that if you're using Cerakote, the colors are as follows:
"Multicam Dark Green" is the mossy color, despite the name. Lol
"Plum Brown" is the reddish brown.
"Mil Spec Green" is the darkest green color.
"Multicam Bright Green" is the neon green color.
"Multicam Olive" is the tan color.
They offer a Multicam Swatch set you can buy to color match with if you don't use their products. Hope this helps!
what do you recommend for all white and green patches camo pattern? paint it all green firs then put your stencils down then cover in white?
Yes, that's how we would do it!!!
4oz will to the full upper minus barrel and full lower?
@@hambone950 Yes, 4oz should be enough!
How long should you wait before peeling all the stencils off at the end?
If you are air curing we recommend waiting a few hours. If you heat cure, then we usually bake the project until the stencils start to roll on their own and then remove them right after the parts come out of the oven while they are still pliable.
At the 3:25 mark, what are you using to scuff the paint with, and how long did you cure it before scuffing it? Thank you.
The narrator states for the distressed look to spray a light coat of black and while the paint is still wet rub/scrub with steel wool.
My wife does say I don't listen... 😂@@J.Young808
I’d use some 4ought steel wool Lowe’s has it
Note that the look also is best if you do as demonstrated and go back and forth and not circular.
I painted my rifle with Freedom stencils...turned out great!
How do you do the distress look with steel wool? Right after you spray while the paint is wet? Or bake then use the steel wool?
If its an air cure product, you can do it right away. If its a heat cure product, give it a quick flash cure so its not sticky, then hit it!
If I'm doing just the receiver set and the handguard, will the small pack suffice or will I still need to get the large pack?
It can, but it depends on the size of the handguard and how much you want to stretch the pattern out.
Does this only apply to cerakote or can you use this same method and stencils with spray paint?
This technique can be used with any paint or coating but some of course work better than others. The gradients for example, are easier to apply with a mini HVLP sprayer or air brush where you can control the spray pattern.
Learn how to shade with a can and you can do it just as good
Was this done with Small (2 sheets) or Large (6 sheets) ?
Hello and thanks for hitting u up. We used the large pack for this project.
How would you recommend doing Multicam tropic and what colors to use for the pattern?
Late comment i guess but i have searched a good painting video for this reason. I would simply use the multicam tropic colors and do the exact same as in the video.
Hey could you guys please demonstrate some type of desert camo? You guys have alot but no desert stripe, or desert type of camos. Something that may look good on like a m110. I have a ar10 with a 20 inch barrel and an a2 stock and I have done 2 of your guys multicams I did scorpion and m81 on 2 other guns. Now I need to do my ar10 and want something diffrent from those colors so I don't even know what colors I need or what stencil I need yet. But please if u get a chance
We just put up Desert Storm! We do want to revisit some classic patterns at some point with desert colors too.
Amazing work, as always 🇺🇸
Thank you!!!! 🤘🤘🤘
Thank you for these awesome products dude! How hard is the digital pattern for a rookie? And what kind of prep work would you recommend for polymer parts only? I'm planning to do the Marine's MARPAT pattern/colors on an the Archangel CQB chassis for the M1A
Sorry for the delayed response. Glad you like the products and content. Marpat isn't too bad. We think it's easier than Multicam.
I’m confused are u supposed to paint over the stencil and the paint will go underneath the stencil to make the pattern or ?
It's simple. It's a multi-layered painting.
Example: take your gun, paint it completely white and that's your base colour. Now add these stencils (basically preshaped ducktape) and paint over everything in black. Remove the stencils; your gun will be black with white spots on where the stencil was applied.
@@eden5394 ah alright thank you for clearing that up for me
@@snakeeyes9659 Yeah, Eden beat us to it! Glad its worked out. Hit us up if you have any more questions!!!
Love it your work looks great, I do have one question about tack time, I’ve had issues with that step, if I get it perfect it works great but if I don’t allow enough time between layers my cerakote fades into one another I can usually live with that (might be a shade darker or lighter green or fde I can see the small difference while other will never pay attention haha) but when I cure too long the Cerakote isn’t as durable on the outer layers. I may be too picky for myself, but what would you suggest for that magic time.
That may be a question better suited for Cerakote, but we typically recommend flash curing for 5-10 minutes at around 180.
Can you explain what you mean when you said 50% when applying the large patterns?
Sorry for the delayed response. So we just mean covering about 50% of the surface with the stencils and leaving about 50% exposed for the next coat of paint/coating.
What spray paint colors do you guys recommend? Doing it for the first time
That's tough because every product manufacturer has different names for similar colors. We give generic names to get the concept across. For dialing in the colors, we recommend getting color matching in person or from swatches if possible for the product(s) you intend to use. Some paint and coating companies may be able to give some good recommendations as well.
I used Testors Spray enamel in 3oz cans. Dried and adhered better than the Krylon camo colors from Home Depot. Go to hobby lobby for testors way cheaper than Amazon. 🤙🏼
After every coat before applying the next stencil, do you cure it in the oven? If so how long? If not, how long do you cure it at room temperature? Thank you 🙏🏻
10-20 minutes at 150-180
@@paulknight8810 thank you!!!!!!
@@K_M_M_G just do it till it’s not tacky
@@paulknight8810 🙏🏻
Great video. One question though: is this air cured or oven cured paint?
Cerakote and Duracote make both types so if you don’t have an oven you can still get the job done. The sand blasting is unavoidable though. There’s a UA-cam video about an easy method of converting a Gatorade bottle into a blasting gun and it works better than any Harbor Freight type version I’ve tried.
What stencil kit is it? Is it the BDU M81?
This one is the Multicolor Camo Kit. www.freedomstencils.com/collections/camouflage-stencils/products/multicolor-camouflage-stencil-kit
As a note duracoat cerakote have their advantages. If you’re pleb. like myself rustoleum and krylon work fine the key is to give each color layer its full recommended 72 hour cure time before applying stencils shapes and new colors. Yes it makes it take forever but without a blast media booth or oven etc. it gets the job done.
What happens if you don’t wait for the paint to cure and just do it all in one go?
Mostly tape or stencils has a hard time sticking or will peel up paint when removed because of off gassing. The evaporation pushes the tape off or lack of proper off gassing fails to let the paint adhere properly. The paint he’s using he notes has an off gassing period and an oven cure. If you watch closely his stencils some of the edges are coming up. I’ve use that stencil material before and have not been impressed. I like making my own with green Frog Tape. I layer it to whatever width I need on a cutting mat and then just use an exacto knife. Over prep makes a big difference too. I have an inexpensive HVLP with a I quart cup. I hose the work piece down with acetone and mineral spirits then dish soap and simple green then rinse with deionized water then compressed air to dry
@@adamg574 if you pick up a “fold bone” from your local art supply shop, near the origami, it will aid with getting into the contours.
I’m kinda confused about oil from your fingers while applying the stencils. Why didn’t you wear gloves or did you take some other measures to prevent residue?
Oils and residue are most important before the base coat as they can prevent adhesion. After the base coat is on, all other layers are cosmetic. These additional layers of coating will also interact with with the base layer aiding in adhesion. So wearing gloves during the stenciling process is not needed. It would of course always be better, but is not necessary, and is near impossible to work with.
Flat tipped tweezers and a “folding bone” will allow you to avoid contact. It does take a bit of practice. You’re still wearing gloves but then You’re not sticking the stencils to you gloves.
Nice job
Is cerakote being used in this process?
We mostly use Cerakote or DuraCoat products in our demonstration videos.
How do u get away from leaving edges from where u peel the stencils off ?
We do a solid base coat, but all additional layers are cosmetic so they are laid thin! www.freedomstencils.com/blogs/quick-tips/avoiding-edge-buildup
@@FreedomStencilsthe question I’d hope you’d answered! Sounds easier than it is lol. I guess practice makes perfect :)
@@ROOSTER-ql5fs Happy to help!
What kind of sand or abrasive material do you use ?
We recommend 80 grit Aluminum Oxide
@@FreedomStencils sweet I'm looking to my own soon ! And how long do you wait before putting on the next coat?
The best
Thanks!
Looks great.
You guys should do a digital camo 🙌🏻
Thanks for the feedback. Definitely planning to hit the vids hard again here real soon!!!
Can you list the paint codes you are using?
Very nice work.
Thank you for the support!
Here I was trying to do a basic Rattlecan paint job, but this time with some stencils. This was definitely more complex and extensive than I thought. Lol, back to simplicity for me then 😅
Thinking about doing it myself but idk lol
How many stencil sheets were used on this project ?
This was done with the large pack (6 sheets)
@@FreedomStencils you think you could do a multicam tropic video?
@@Sauce8451 Yes! It's on our list!!!
@@FreedomStencils hopefully you do it soon because that’s my soon to be upcoming project and I’d love to see how you guys do it first so I have a better idea on color layers. Cheers!
@@FreedomStencils patiently waiting for multicam tropic because that’s what my M82 will be getting
What series Cerakote did you use? Are you baking the parts in between colors?
Hello. We use Cerakote and/or DuraCoat products in our video demonstrations and flash cure between coats at 180 degrees for 5-10 minutes with a full bake cure at the end after the stencils are removed.
Do you thin the duracoat out to spray through the airbrush and if so do you thin the paint before or after the hardener is added?
Where can I get it? Multicam sheets?
www.freedomstencils.com/collections/camouflage-stencils/products/multicolor-camouflage-stencil-kit
What kind of paint is used for airbrushing firearms?
Duracoat and Cerakote are the most well respected but as noted in the video you do need to blast the parts with an abrasive media before application. Both coatings have air cure versions as well as oven cure so make sure you get the right version whether you’ve an oven or not etc.
brilliant! and simple,just the info i needed to do my security cameras! thanks!
just checked price......$50.00?Gooood Looord dats a lotta moooney!
Are you the same guy as Montactical from back in the day?
Yes
Can someone please tell me if these stencils are reusable? I want to buy them but I can only afford the price If they are reusable
They are not reusable but my god are they good highly recommend these guys
All you need is an
exacto knife
Blu scotch tape, BLU not just blue. Frog tape is fantastic as well but BLU loves wet paint
A cutting Mat
These days you can just pocket that shit from Walmart 😂 or it’ll cost like $13
@@BobLuvsBoobies I never thought of doing that if I’m honest
Nice
Can you do kryptex Camo
We can, but unfortunately, Kryptek Outdoor Group is very unfriendly to that sort of thing.
@@FreedomStencils that sucks, you think they’d want ppl using their Camo.
@@paulknight8810 We agree!
Thank you
I think it looked amazing before the black coat and steel wool. Still nice and appreciate the video though 👍
Man that black brought it all together. It looked to forced before he darkened & distressed it. Now it looks professional 🤔
So I understand that you said Multicam type of pattern but there is a couple of flaws if Multicam is to be done. 1 you didn't use 7 colors, Multicam has 7 colors, 3 greens, 3 browns, and a almost white color. You used six and also used only 2 browns one of which is supposed to be faded with another like the greens but opposite direction which wasn't done, plus ONE sheet, depending on the project, is all that's really needed you can use the discarded webing as a stencil for the later parts
Get over it
@@Dingleberry262 sounds like you do I wasn't getting upset with them like you're with me
Shit Pvts say because this is all they have been taught or remember up to this point .
@@jester4348 or they have actually done it and have fucked it up too asshole
Desert camouflage, please…..
We have several on the list (DCU, Desert Storm, MC Arid, etc.). Which ones are you most interested in?
Holly Multicam!😂😂😂
Could’ve gone without the distressed look
Sometimes it adds a nice touch, and sometimes its better without. Its a personal preference for sure, but we like to demonstrate it in the videos to give everyone options!
No!
Here bro it's Simple
6 Colors
DIY Multicam Colors
Khaki(Primary)
Brown(Primary)
Sage Green(Primary)
Olive Green(Primary)
Dark Brown(Accent)
Cream(Accent)
All Rust-Oleum
Sweet. Can't wait to see your video!
@@FreedomStencilsha! Nice.
I’m generally with yah I’ve not the money or space for a proper duracoat or cerakote job just remember to let each of you color layers dry properly. Also a cheap gravity fed HVLP gun from your local “big box” hardware store with 1:1:1 acetone:mineral spirits:Xylene gets all your grease and oil and lube off then a 1/3 simple green to 2/3 water solution to remove remaining solvent residue then just plain water to make sure all the simple green is gone.
WOW> That was way to complicated. Watch video of how real solders paint their guns dependent.on the environment they are going into.
Cool bruh
How long in between each coat ?
It depends on the coating and how wet you lay it. We generally wait an hour or two if not heat curing, or 5-10 minutes at 180 degrees for baking.
@Freedom Stencils excellent appreciate the reply. I'm wanting to start doing my own soon but not very familiar with it.
@Freedom Stencils but the standard duracoat you don't have to bake it correct ? That's optional?
@@UmbralAzrael73 Its awesome. you will have a good time!
@@UmbralAzrael73 Correct. Heat curing just speeds up the process!
Anyone know exact colors for Multicam Black?
It kind of depends on the product you're using because most companies use different naming conventions, but your mostly going for Black, Dark Grey, and hint of Green. ua-cam.com/video/uNbTKOTO3fc/v-deo.html
@@FreedomStencils could you tell me what I'd use for tropic multicam?