Lifters are held up with clips and pulled up. I think even if they were not held up the cam plate would still come out. I think it held on to the dowles. I laughed I thought I would just cut the rods like you lol
Yes thank you it was just stuck on the 2 towels. Do you remember the lifter bores the oils holes were on the outside and the lifter oil holes were lined up on them facing outward right? unlike the regular Harley book says face oil holes on lifers all face inward? Again thanks
I don’t think it matters as there is a channel/groove machined around the lifter body to allow oil, it’s more just for a better direct feed I imagine. It used to matter more on old shovels. new stuff not so much. 👍🏼
Question: If you will removing the cam cover, once it is off, can't you tell by the marks on the timing chain when each piston is at TDC? If so, why do you have to do the work of rotating the tire and feeling for TDC on the compression stroke by doing the spark plug hole routine?
For clarity, there are no timing marks on the cam chains themselves. Twin CamHarleys no longer have a removable plug to check timing marks. I find this method works well on most modern four stroke engines, taking the guess work out, you can also determine and verify the timing marks for other engines using this method. Find ways that work, and keep doing that!
I have the same motor did just what you did. My motor has never been run. I can get the cam plate to pull out any Ideas. It did look like you had to pull a bit I can't get mine to pull out any help would be great thank you
Wouldn't it be easier since your taking the cam cover off way to remove the cover and just use the time marks on the sprockets to find TDC? Marks facing each other would be TDC on rear and marks both on top of each sprocket would be TDC for front... right?
Much easier, and much more precise. Align the dots pointing at each other for the rear cylinder, and both of them pointing upward at about the 11 o’clock position for the front cylinder.
The B engines have two chain driven balance shaft inside the engine cases. Fortunately the inside ones don’t seem to have the issues that the camshaft chain tensioners have on the earlier 99 to 2006
When cutting the original pushrods, I usually replace them with a "time-saver" pushrod that can be installed without removal of the rocker boxes. S&S cycle for one offers pushrods like this called "Quickee" pushrods. Which ever manufacture you choose, make sure they allow for installation of the pushrod without removing the rocker boxes. There are adjustable pushrods that are adjustable but require rocker removal, they are usually less expensive than the fully collapsible ones
@@CrackerJackMechanic That is true, wasn't meant for Criticism, or to Criticize you. I was trying to see something specific, that i didn't see. No biggie. And i would not have watched more than a minute if i thought you didn't know what you were doing....watched the whole thing and the other video(s) too.
No BS straight to the point. Awesome video.
🙏🏼
Great vid Jack clear as a bell very well explained 👍
Thank you for you kind review! I’m glad you liked this one!!
Great video! I’ve read the manual but it’s super helpful to watch someone do it. ✌🏻
Glad it was helpful!
Lifters are held up with clips and pulled up. I think even if they were not held up the cam plate would still come out. I think it held on to the dowles. I laughed I thought I would just cut the rods like you lol
so you got it out!? 👍🏼
Great video 👍🏻
🙏🏼
Yes thank you it was just stuck on the 2 towels. Do you remember the lifter bores the oils holes were on the outside and the lifter oil holes were lined up on them facing outward right? unlike the regular Harley book says face oil holes on lifers all face inward? Again thanks
I don’t think it matters as there is a channel/groove machined around the lifter body to allow oil, it’s more just for a better direct feed I imagine. It used to matter more on old shovels. new stuff not so much. 👍🏼
Great how to vid.
Thanks! I appreciate your support!!
Question: If you will removing the cam cover, once it is off, can't you tell by the marks on the timing chain when each piston is at TDC? If so, why do you have to do the work of rotating the tire and feeling for TDC on the compression stroke by doing the spark plug hole routine?
For clarity, there are no timing marks on the cam chains themselves. Twin CamHarleys no longer have a removable plug to check timing marks.
I find this method works well on most modern four stroke engines, taking the guess work out, you can also determine and verify the timing marks for other engines using this method.
Find ways that work, and keep doing that!
I have the same motor did just what you did. My motor has never been run. I can get the cam plate to pull out any Ideas. It did look like you had to pull a bit I can't get mine to pull out any help would be great thank you
Did you take the lifters out? and double check that all the bolts are out! I may take a little wiggle bit usually doesn’t require excessive force.
Cant get my can plate to pull out. What would be stuck/jammed ? Motor never been ran. Thank you
Did you take the lifters out? and double check that all the bolts are out! I may take a little wiggle bit usually doesn’t require excessive force.
Wouldn't it be easier since your taking the cam cover off way to remove the cover and just use the time marks on the sprockets to find TDC? Marks facing each other would be TDC on rear and marks both on top of each sprocket would be TDC for front... right?
I don’t know if it’s easier, but if that works for you go ahead. I trust my way ✌🏼
Much easier, and much more precise. Align the dots pointing at each other for the rear cylinder, and both of them pointing upward at about the 11 o’clock position for the front cylinder.
So the Twin Cam 96B is still chain driven with a hydraulic driven nylon shoe? WTF?
The B engines have two chain driven balance shaft inside the engine cases. Fortunately the inside ones don’t seem to have the issues that the camshaft chain tensioners have on the earlier 99 to 2006
Might be a dumb question but if you do cut the pushrod, do they get replaced? If so how without dropping them in from the top?
When cutting the original pushrods, I usually replace them with a "time-saver" pushrod that can be installed without removal of the rocker boxes. S&S cycle for one offers pushrods like this called "Quickee" pushrods. Which ever manufacture you choose, make sure they allow for installation of the pushrod without removing the rocker boxes. There are adjustable pushrods that are adjustable but require rocker removal, they are usually less expensive than the fully collapsible ones
@@CrackerJackMechanic gotcha, that makes sense. I appreciate the reply, have a good one.
@@matt8863 I prefer one piece pushrods myself. It really depends on a few things, usually budget, mileage, etc when it comes to what is coming apart.
@@matt8863 and thanks
What is acceptable pinon run out.
I use the factory service specs from the manual. I don't have one close, but a quick Google search and you will find them.
@Hell's favorite NPC #69OU812 . exe .003
you camera skills don't allow a clear view at times
Good thing I have motorcycle Mechanic skills!
@@CrackerJackMechanic That is true, wasn't meant for Criticism, or to Criticize you. I was trying to see something specific, that i didn't see. No biggie. And i would not have watched more than a minute if i thought you didn't know what you were doing....watched the whole thing and the other video(s) too.