HOW TO BUILD THE BEST WASTE VALVE for your RAM PUMP
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- Опубліковано 13 вер 2019
- Finally it is here! My custom waste valve for ram pumps. Looks complicated but believe, it is worth!
To get the parts shopping list (PDFs for both the pump and valve) please buy me a coffee here: www.buymeacoffee.com/bubiq
On that page you will find some other extras.
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I want to say thank you for the energy you put into this video. I took inspiration from your work and thankfully, my system is working splendidly.
It's the costume built waste valve of yours that stands out among the rest! It's very efficient. No wonder, why your ram pump is 💪!!
Bravo Bogomire za sve tvoje priloge, snimke, ideje. Ventil pravim sutra :))
Thanks Bohumir for sharing of this great custom waste valve. We manage to achieve 7Bar in 8 minutes. We are delivering to 42m elevation at 0.9liter/min. Thanks again 👍
I have to say it, I’ve been researching this ram pumps for a while. And of all the videos this ram pump design and check valve design are the most efficient. 👍🏽🙏🏽
Hello pliss help me.pliss give me,whatshapp number
Nice work, your waste valve rocks! I also like your original ideas for the pressure vessel especially the fire extinguisher 👩🚒🚒
Great pump and information, that's going to help me out big time thanks Mr.
Well done, Bohumir! Thanks a lot for this valve
thank you.. a very big help for my farm.
great to have a true ideas guy on the project .. .. please do not spoil your video presentation with the loud music ..the music is so overpowering I found it almost impossible to follow your excellent construction video .. Great video keep up the good ideas .
It is too loud, but you turn the volume down...
@@lksf9820 Turning the volume down means we can't hear YOU. Music is nice but should be BACKGROUND, not over powering you. Thanks for a great video!!
Thank you for all the work that you put into this. I just built a ram pump and modeled my waste gate valve off of your design. I will be pushing 250 ft up hill with 100 ft drop on the head pipe. I think the best thing about this valve is the tuneability. I can adjust and tune it to maximize performance for the flow and pressure that I have at my source. I think this will work great! wish me luck....
Thank you for your nice message. Fingers crossed!
@@BurimPrroi In the description there are all of my videos about ram pumps.
Very good! I won't repeat what I said on the other video, I'll just add that using leather for the seal is probably the best bet - it will have a longer life than plastic or rubber seals!
Very good job! Thank you very much for sharing the video. GBU! 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Very enlightening thanks .
muchas gracias por sus aportes , lo pondre en marcha
I love your videos. I’m going to try to drop the water about 50’ to gain 350’.
I built this waste valve to replace the swing check valves we have been using on our ram pump. It works great and has increased the flow rate by a factor of 2.5 up at our cabin. Thank you Bohumir Stehlik!
We have a 120 foot (about 40 meters) delivery lift from the creek bed into a 100 gallon (about 400 liters) water storage tank in the attic of our cabin. Also a mere 7 foot (about 2.3 meters) head on the 2" drive pipe. With Bohumir's waste valve design we deliver 1 liter every 70 seconds. Before I built Bohumir's designed waste valve, the constant hammering of the pump was destroying the brass seats and hinge on the 1" swing check valves regularly and I would have to replace it a couple times each season.
Be advised that using leather to make the seal did not work in my case. Leather swells, gets very soft and bunches up after a few hours in the water and causes the waste valve to stick closed. I wonder if Bohumir was using Leatherette (imitation leather) or a leather like vinyl or Naugahyde? I ended up making the seal from the fabric backed rubber I cut from a knee height rubber wader boot. With the rubber side towards the brass valve seat, its been working perfectly for a few days now. Time will tell if the rubber will endure; I tried a few different kinds of leather and found that leather WILL NOT last in the water. Also, the brass reducer that I bought was a rather rough and pitted casting. I found it necessary to chuck a circular fine grit grinding wheel of the appropriate size in a drill press and use it to smooth the area inside the reducer that becomes the valve seat. I'm sure you can think of other ways to do this if necessary, but I liked the drill press because it got the job done in a few minutes.
Hello. Thanks for your message. Great, congratulations! Well, I used just over 1cm thick very hard leather. It looks it holds well and I didn't have any problems with it. It is told that leather will last much longer than rubber but it is true that leather soaks the water..
@@BohumirStehlik Okay, I have have made and tested several seals from different materials in your brilliant waste valve design. The winner is a seal made from vulcanized rubber I cut from a hockey puck using an appropriately sized hole saw chucked in a drill press, a twist drill the same size as the threaded rod in the waste valve and a thin bladed saw. The hockey puck seal has worked continuously for weeks and upon disassembly, shows no sign of wear and tear.
@@paulkleinkramer5065 Great info, thank you!
@@BohumirStehlik good butintake pipe howmuch long
Great information. Thank you
Good job man thanks a lot
Hi and thank you for sharing. Very nice
great job.
Very good explanation, I made my own waste valve, almost the same of your design, the only different is instead of using T coupling I use straight coupling with 2"x1" boozing on both end and hard rubber (tyre of truck) is my plunger
can we see it?
You can type my home made ram pump with customizer waste valve
The bottom of the pump"s seal waste valve should be conical, so that the water will push the center of the seal up, incrementing the hammering.
I was also thinking on adding an intake valve so that portion of the pressure created by the hammering would not return via the supply pipe
지식을 공유해 주셔서 감사합니다.
Nice work, very good idea. What would be the TEE size used on a waste valve for a ram pump 2". Thanks
This is what i was looking for.... Tnx for sharing
Nice one
Ver Good RAM pum,
Very nice Sir I'd like to Install in my house ❤❤❤❤❤❤
amazing!!!!!!
Thanks Bohumir! I built the 1' 1/4' one following your video. Mine stays up when i open the tap and does not go up and down. Will adjusting the leather tops inside the T affect thr functioning of the waste valve? Thanks for your advice.yon
If it stays up (you mean closed), you don't have enough pressure in the air tank and/or outlet.
Thank you very mych for sharing. iI still have question about the Soud comming from the check vale. How can hide or weaken the sound . An answer please. Thank you again.
Hello. Sorry but I have no idea. To weaken the metal sound use a valve with a rubber ball inside. Otherwise there's no way how to minimalise the sound...
Very Nice Sir ❤❤❤❤
We list all usage materials in waste valve thank you
The shopping list for the pump and the valve is in the "buymeacoffee" link in the description. Thanks
En rigtig god ventil og meget mere effektiv end en klapventil. På grundlag af din model byggede jeg en ram pump str. 1" med en ventil på 2". Jeg har opnået et tryk på 4.2 Bar.
Jeg har modificeret den en smule.
Can I use PPR or PVC fittings as well?
good wrk your assimble pipe for ram pump oky thank you sir
Hello Bohumir and friends,
Firstly, I'd like to thank you for sending me out the PDF Shopping list and hope you enjoyed the coffee.
Secondly, I'd like to share with you my results after watching all your videos and as a result, I have now 3600 litres per day running to my property. (The 2 videos in your PDF are best for great results-Cheers)
*I live in Australia and we predominately use the metric measuring system. I've added some conversions here to assist others that may not use metric measurements-these are rough and near about imperial measurements *
1" inch = 25mm
1" 1/4 inch = 32mm
1" 1/2 inch = 40mm
2" inch =50mm
1 foot = 305mm
3 feet = 1000mm which equates to 1 metre
1/4 gallon = 1 Litre
.. all are approximately
So, once granted permission by a neighbour to have access to his natural spring on his property which strongly puts out 40Litres/minute so 58,378L/day into a nearby river.
I commenced on my ram pump project/exercise to try to get some of this spring water to my property which is 600metres away. (10.5 gallons/minute so, 15,421 gallons/day...that's a lot of pure spring water being wasted per day)
I now have 3600L/day to my property, by replicating exactly Bohumir's Homemade Ram Pump and Waste Valve.
My inputs;
Drive side of pump
6m Head(fall) to my pump
21m of 32mm rigid pvc pipe
approx 30L/minute of water velocity.
The waste water from the valve returns back to the spring via a small trench.
Delivery side of pump
40metre lift over 200m delivery, then 400m along a small decline towards my property. Gauge reads approx 5Bar of pressure at the pump
25mm Poly Pipe x 600m to my 5000L water tank on my property.
Notes;
I purchased a 10Bar maximum 10L pressure tank with factory lining preset at 2Bar. I increased this to 6Bar with a bicycle hand pump. This helps with the flow rate. I also installed a wheel valve on the output, to which you can finely make adjustments/increments better, than say using a lever valve. Here you can also use this to increase lift if needed(got mine to 55metres+) though you lose output amount as a loss/result.
I used a pvc check valve at approx 100m on the delivery lift length of the initial 200m of delivery length, to assist the load on the pump brass/stainless check valve. There are a lot of pressures/weight there on this valve, as Bohumir raised.
Once I reached the first 200m mark and on to level ground using the 25mm poly pipe, I could've used 32mm or greater poly pipe to assist with rolling friction of water in the pipe. Then having a small decline assisted with gravity for the remaining 400metres to my property, I guessed that may just make it using 25mm all the way,to which it did.(there was evident loss of output at all 200m joins of the poly pipe towards my property-this loss would be better mitigated if larger diameter pipe was used)
I will eventually replace the galvanised iron waste valve and other galvanised parts, with stainless steel as the water is very acidic here and rust will be an issue in the long term. I also know that I can tweak this set up further, and even throttle the output of water, to improve an efficiencies.
If I can do it, then as Bohumir says in his ending videos " You can do it too"
Thanks again Bohumir, and good luck to you all in your quests.
Cheers,
Costas
Oh yeaah! I am so happy to read this. Thank you!
Bohumir, it is your generosity for you to sharing all your results with everyone that makes things work well. So, very grateful for this, hence I'm happy to share with others my fails and gains to making my exercise/quest a success. Cheers again, Costas
Did I get a different parts list than everyone else? The lists I got from the Coffee after paying to support his efforts (much appreciate his efforts) were just a rehash of these videos. There were no links to help find the parts. That's what I thought I was getting when paying for it and not just the same list from the videos he'd already posted. For example, the 2 to 1 brass fitting with threaded holes in it... I can't find anything like that anywhere. Did you find that to build yours? I'm just barely getting started, and it's been really discouraging because not a single youtuber anywhere that I've found posts a parts list with links to actual parts. I've spent hours and hours and hours trying to find good parts, and I'm super discouraged at this point.
Hey Stephen, yes,you need to source the parts yourself. I found a suitable online plumbing store that provided most parts here in Australia. Some bigger hardware stores could also help, pending on where you are in the world.
You also need to thread your own holes in the reducer, using a tap and die set to suit the M6 threads. Try to borrow the equipment/tools if you don't have access to any.
I also managed to source my leather for the valves online (I used 2 x 4mm thick strips with outer diameter of 40mm and with a 10mm centre hole. Both strips, compressed by washers as Bohumir has suggested, on a 10mm threaded rod. Good luck and keep at it. Costas@@StephenfCarman
@@StephenfCarman Dear Stephen. First of all thank you for supporting me. Making of a ram pump needs at least some experience in DIY jobs. The shopping list and videos are international so in case of writing the links I would need to put separate links for the USA, Sri Lanka, Thailand, France etc etc etc - I don't think so people would import stuff from my homeland country (Czech Republic)... I am sure you can find the parts by searching them in Google in Your country. Or you can find almost all of the parts in shops like Bauhaus, Obi, Baumax or Hornbach (if you live in Europe).
About the 2 to 1 inch brass fitting - you need to make the threaded holes for the screws by yourself. You can buy the stuff here from a Czech e-shop: www.dek.cz/produkty/detail/6000014910-redukce-mosaz-2-x-1-mf
Hi and thank you for sharing. Did you drill the holes in the reducer yourself or are there some pre-drilled ones available?
Hello. Everything by myself.
Is there any benefit to be had timing the check valve on pressure tank? So that you are say having it open as early as possible but shutting only just before the pressure drops below the peak pressure the pump can deliver to the pressure tank?
A couple of comments:
1) Use locking nuts instead of standard nuts.
2) Can you find a hard rubber washer to use instead of the leather?
3) Have you ever tried/considered using two (or even three) waste valves instead of one. (Perhaps it is not necessary since you can weight the stopper, but might be interesting to try)
4) Build a tank out of 4 inch PVC pipe with a screw plug on the top where you can place balls or a bike inner tube with air in, which can be easily maintained in the future. (Standard tanks such as the one you used will lose their air after a while, unless it was a tank with a bladder for air that you can pump up now and then...
The reason why I suggested the #3 is that I saw a hydraulic ram pump in Tanzania 20 years ago that had two waste valves, (using rubber stoppers) and it was used to run sprinklers to water crops. I'm not sure if this provided more pressure or volume or both... It would be cool to see you develop one like that.
Hello,
thanks for the comment.
1) Definitelly¨
2) I don't know but leather should be more durable than rubber.
3) I don't recommend that - the two valves should be identical to work properly (to shut off in the same time). And it would be more mooving parts.
4) I am thinking to place a sniff ventil bellow the main valve.
hello great video well explained, however I can not know the size of the battery pipe ... 32 or 40? I have about the same conditions as you (a little less) and I am going up 1 cubic meter per day to about 16m high and a 32mm battery pipe. thank you hello from the french riviera!
love your work but a couple of ideas for you to ponder , do you have any sort of bladder in the pressure container ? i couldnt see a snifter valve so i assume you must have a bladder in the pressure container , if there isnt one then over time the pressure your getting will drop significantly , and maybe add a sleeve of copper or the like over the threaded bar as it will be sawing away at the bracket over time , like i said i love your work and i know you are open to ideas
Yes, this is a bladder tank. I don't use a sniffer but I would consider it for the future in the case of not using a bladder tank.
hello what complete name of brass fitting with 2 hole thanks
What's the size of the other check valve on your pump?
Would a galvanized drive pipe make it more efficient? Would it make a big diffence?
I think so, sure... Sturdier the pipe is tje more efficient is the pump.
If I were to make the waste valve size smaller would this mean it would require less water to run it? Also what is minimum liters per minute to run this ram pump?
What if you connect 4 inch drive pipe to a 1 inch waste valve with a heavy weight on waste valve? Will it increase the output? Please help us know.
Verey good
Good evening , my ram pump which is stream feed uses 2 inches swing valves on rainy days ru s smooth, but this summer the water on my drive pipe is low, can i use a reducer and use a smaller size valve to keep my ram pump running ?
Hello, I think to a certain point you can use a smaller valve. We did it this summer. But not so much smaller because then you would need to change also the drive pipe diameter.
Bohumir; Does the size, type, or material make a difference in the second check valve. Could I use any check valve, brass or PVC as long as it is spring operated? Steven
It doesn't have to be spring operated. The durability depends on material. Just pick the same size as the rampump itself and you should be allright.
Only thing I would add, maybe a little high strength thread locking compound on the nuts once you have the waste valve dialed in. Those impacts will eventually loosen the nuts in time.
I know it is a test setup, but if you mount that pump to some BIG rocks or pour a concrete pad and bolt to that you will loose less mechanical energy from the hammer effect to things moving and should give some performance boost, but hey 5000L/day is nothing to sniff at even so.
You are completelly right. In new models I am using double nuts for the piston.
@@BohumirStehlik Nylock Nuts would also be better. Those things wont budge even after the parts have worn away.
I'll be building a ram pump for my spring soon and I found your videos. I'm really interested in building one like yours but I need to get some flow and elevation measurements first and I have some questions. I hope you can respond.
1. The 2" to 1" brass reduction...did you drill and tap those 2 holes for the bridge bolts? If so, what size drill bit did you use?
2. Is it necessary to use leather? Would rubber be okay?
3. Is the expansion tank pressurized? The ones I see in stores online are pressurized to various pressures but can be changed. Should the pressure be dropped to ZERO or maybe 5psi?
4. I'm expecting my drive pipe to be one inch but may be 3/4" if the flow is less than I expect. For a 1" or 3/4" ram pump, I'm thinking the 2" waste valve might be too big. Do you think 5/4" will be okay for 1" or 3/4" ram pump?
I think that's all for now. Thanks for posting your videos and I bought you a coffee!
Thank you for sharing this wonderful valve. I also view other channel on ram pump and have gathered mixed information on waste valve hope you can enlighten us addressing this question.
Have you noticed of two main streams of ram pump, Normally open versus normally shut, assuming fed by 1-2 meters of water head? I was told that the normally shut type requires manually prime until the distribution circuit has build up water volume to sustain a back pressure otherwise it will not cycle itself. Is your waste valve of normally open type and closed only by dynamic pressure? Your advice?
Hi Bohumir, thank you for posting your ram pump and check valve design. I've downloaded the shopping lists. We need to pump water from a creek which is 17m head and approximately 500m long. Can I use 1" (25mm) output with a 40mm input? Regards, Laura from Australia
Hello. I think so, I don't see any problem with it. Maybe the delivery pipe could be thinner but that isn't a problem. Just make the intake pipe hard with a steady downfall and plan the lenght of it properly and it should good to go.
Hi, I have been researching different ram pump designs and your waste valve is much better then stock valves. The only question I have is if you tried different size inlet and outlet holes like 1 1/4" or 1 1/2"
Inlet should be the same size as the ram pump. Outlet could be bigger when you have the right weight of the valve.
What is the name of that brass fitting for the valve head? Is that a custom part? Thanks for the video
Buenos días felicitaciones excelente ariete es posible lista de materiales con medidas para armar paso a paso por favor atte anticipó mis agradecimientos Ricardo Sto Dnmgo Ecuador
ahoj skvělé video neměl bys nějaký rozpis sortimentu co je na to potřeba?nebo nevíš jestli se dá koupit originál?
Ahoj. Originál dělám já. Rozpis sortimentu máš v popisu videa, stačí se trochu koukat...
Fantastic what's jobin. Like. Music??
Do you sell and ship the pumps to Puerto Rico? I need one.
Does anyone have more information on the leather washers? I have to make a valve for a 3/4 pump and I'm not sure how to make that washer as far as size hole, thickness, etc., where to find them, or if there is any substitute that will work.
I have bought a VERY thick leather and made it myself. Washer should stop the water inside of the 2''=>1'' reduction. The hole in the middle should be only for the screw.
It is necessary to bring vater in few pipes. Such as ram pump
That I don't understand...
what size of pipe should I use to make it deliver up to 80-90 meters uphill?
It is not about the size of the pipe. It is about the initial head pressure.
Dobrý den, Bohumíre, Ram Pumpa mě úplně uchvátila. Pod pozemkem nám vede potok, převýšení je asi 15 metrů, vzdálenost je cca 50 metrů. Uvažuji, ze bych vodu jímal z potoka do nádrže na zalévání. Záleží na velikosti tlakové nádoby? Nebo spíš na spádu potoka, čili délce a sklonu přítokové hadice? Děkuji za odpověď.
Dobry den, Martine! Zni to dobre, vypada to, jako u me. Velikost nadoby neni moc smerodatna. Smerodatne je hlavne primarni prevyseni.
Odkud jste? Mohli bychom to u Vas rozchodit. Trkace delam, tusim, ze mame doma ted rozdelany jeden 5/4''.
@@BohumirStehlik Jsem od Mělníka. Primární převýšení bude problém, podle mapy je převýšení malé. Na vzdálenosti cca 85 metrů potoka je převýšení 1 metr. Leda by se udělala malá přehrada, aby vznikl tlak.
Další problém je silnice mezi potokem a pozemkem. Jsme velmi blízko CHKO a tak bychom toto museli určitě řešit s úřady.
Hi there, it could lift water to 50m elevation?
If it would have enough head pressure, then yes.
what are the thread sizes of our fittings (metric?). I am in USA and can't seem to find things that match up. Going to build your valve for 1/2 inch ram pump. Should I still use a 2 inch TEE fitting? Or size down to 1 inch TEE fitting? I have 17.6 ft of fall and deliver to 60 ft elevation at a rate of 0.375 gpm (20 ounces in 25 seconds). If I rotate the valve sideway to increase the pressure on swing valve I get 0.409 gpm (20 ounces in 22.9 seconds). Brass swing valve is hissing and leaking. What increase in flow rate could I expect using your valve?
1/2 inch is smaller so you could use 1'' or 1 1/4'' T fitting. This piece needs to be bigger because of the flow between the piston and the wall. The threads are G conical threads.
I have a 1 1/4" galvanised tee already, so could I base the waste valve around that size or do you say it must be 2"
The 2'' has a meaning. It is easier to attach the construction and the seal to 2'' to 1'' reduction. You need the big size because of the flow.
@@BohumirStehlik Ok, Bohumir, many thanks for the reply and advice.
Could you please make a list of those items to build your version waste valve. Thankyou.
2'' T, 2x 1'' plug, 2'' to 1'' reduction, 1x 2'' to 1'' BRASS reduction, 2'' to size of your rampump reduction, very thick metal plate, 10mm thread rod, 2x M6x70 screw, 4x M6 nut, 4x M10 nut, thick leather sealing, standard M10 washer, M10x30 washer, sealing tape.
I hope I didn't forget anything...
Bohumir Stehlik Thank you very much.👍🏼👍🏼❤️❤️
@Jomar Vitug Hello. Every valve is slightly different. It should be over the top of the valve that you cam screw some weights.
@@BohumirStehlik Put this info in right under the description of the video!
Thank you for your time! Very much appreciated.
Do you possibly know how to determine what size pump to use so you don’t pump more than your water source?
I’m sure there is a good formula. My natural spring produces approximately 946 liters (250 gallons)per 30 minutes
music is too loud but love your video
Thanks, so much for the videos! Favor to ask: I've had so much trouble actually *finding* the parts needed to build the custom valve and the the ram pump itself. Could you create a parts list with links to the parts themselves for where to get them? I've spent so much time trying to find good parts--or even the right parts (for example, the 2 to 1 brass reducer with the two threaded holes in it. I... can't find that anywhere. I would be really grateful if you or someone could create a linked shopping list. Thanks, so much!
I make my customized waste valve, using 2"x2" nipple, 2 2" end cap or cover, put hole and thread by machinist. Instead of leather as a plunger, I used a heavy equipment tyre or truck tyre. Very durable, can lift higher and deliver larger volume of water compared to swing valve
Awesome... I just sent you some coffee for the great video. One question: Does your pressure tank have a functional bladder? If so, do you have a pre-set pressure for the air part of the bladder?
Hello, thank you very much. For the last model we used a 8l pressure tank with a bladder. I pumped the primary pressure just bellow the pressure for the delivery pipe... So 17m of the delivery height = cca 1,5bar in the tank.
If we increase the diameter of the manmade valve, can that increase the mass flow rate and higher elevations?
It is all about the intake pipe. If you have big waste valve and narrow intake, the flow rate will actually be the same as the flow rate of the intake. And you will have a problem with too heavy piston.
I've been quoted £1300 by a rampump manufacturer for the pump, then £850 for all of the ancilliaries. That's to deliver 6,300ltrs/day from a 30ltr/min spring. But the delivery is overkill as I have 3000ltrs storage and use 1500ltrs/day at peak Summer for irrigation. DIY is definitely the way to go. I'm building this!
Bohurmir, Another question. Noticed you changed to an Accumulator tank (tank with an air filled bladder inside). Why? Did it increase something? What would be the ideal tank volume and bladder pressure?? Really like your videos, thanks for sharing.
Volume bladder pressure should be little higher than your delivery height pressure. With the ideal tank volume the delivery stream doesn't have any bumps in flow. It is a battery. So too small tank and you will have bumps (or the pump stops to work). Too big tank and it will take years to prime it. With my pump I use 8l bladder tank and it is enough. It also worked with 2l PET.
The air slowly escapes from a tank without the bladder so that's why I use bladder tank.
why do you mix brass and galvanized components. Could it be all one metal or the other. BTW thank you for response to my question on other video.
Some components , eg. one-way valve, You can only buy in brass ... At least in Europe
Can I do this with PVC? because drill on metal is really hard..!..
You can do it with PVC but it won't hold so big pressure...
hi, sorry to bother you again, i want to build one like yours but couldn't find anywhere the 2" to 1" brass fitting(head valve), if you know a good website who sells it , i'll be very grateful thnx
No idea. I bought it in a shop in Prague... But now everything is closed due to quarantine...
Sir can I buy one of your ram pump product? Thanks
My current drive pipe is a thick pvc 80 feet long, with about 30 to 35 feet vertical height, and my 2 inches swing valve just gave up, after pumping only 90 feet vertical , if i change my waste valve using your design, how high would be my estimated water delivery, ,,,, my water source is a spring with 40 liter per minute volume,,,, hoping for a reply and more power, thanks for the inspiration....
Hello. Wohooo. What a pressure! I mean, 80feets is like 25 meters, and 35 feets of head pressure is 10 meters? Am I right. No doubts that you destroyed the swing check valve. :-) I also think that the swing check valve shut off very fast. The pressure is super high for the valves. It is an overkill. You definitelly need another valve to use the whole potential of the head pressure. But I am worried that the pressure would destroy also my design - the leather would worn out really quickly. How far do you need to pump? With my design I have maximum pumping delivery x15 of the head pressure with 50m intake pipe. Count somewhere around x7 of usable pumping height ratio... Good luck.
Did you drill in this element yourself? 2” to 1” brass fitting
Yes I did.
Great info thank you. I muted the intense music though. Voice over would have been better, or lighter quieter music. 😅
I've built this, Bohumir, put can't get it to work. I made rubber washers for the valve but they are not sealing completely. Is this critical?
Hello. Yes, definitely it is critical that it seals. But also, it could be that you have too little water pressure. Have you used the brass reduction in the valve? They are of a better quality and the surfaces tends to be much smoother.
@@BohumirStehlik Thanks for the reply. Yes, the seal is probably the problem, I will try something else. I did use brass reductions in the valve.
How does this one hold up over time?
Better than swing check valves...
also: How long does it take to fill that long-arse delivery pipe? :)
Starts at 1:45
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Does it also work with a 1" ram?
Yes.
Can you make one and send it to me in Costa Rica? It is really hard to find the parts that I need
Zjistil jsem že si čech, neva :D První video jsem musel koukat bez zvuku.. Btw nevíš na kolik tě to vyšlo a dá se vše cos použil sehnat třeba v obi na sestavení?
Ahoj, ty se čechů štítíš? Nejdražší je ten mosaznej ventil vprostřed, ten stojí několik set. Jinak fitinky se seženou všude. Doporučuju Moopex, ale vesměs to mívají i v hobbyshopech (obi, bauhaus, hornbach). Hasičák se dá sehnat např. v Praze u Průběžný - je tam prodejna a plnička hasících přístrojů. Mají tam připravené lahve na sešrotování, když je člověk milý, daj mu lahev za kilo. Nebo expanzka z druhé ruky, zbytečné kupovat nové. Řekněme, že se člověk se vším všudy vejde do 1500kč. Ale potom si musí vyrobit ten ventil a všechno spojit dohromady a to stojí čas...
@@BohumirStehlik Díky.. Nn jen čumim 95% videí jen na usa a uk.. A když máš psaný vše v en myslel jsem že si taky třeba z usa.. :)
A video where there would have been a voice over description of what you were doing and what parts you were using and how they were made would have been much more helpful that that frantic piano music (it really distracts from the teaching...). Thank you for what you did.
I just hate my voice and my english and that's why I put there this silly music.
@@BohumirStehlik everyone will know that English is not your first language, you speak well enough to understand and that's all that matters. Thanks for posting.
Hiya, it seems the most effective design but how do you attach a pipe to it to take the water where you want it?
Plumber fittings..
@@BohumirStehlik Have you a picture? How do you work around the metal frame that supports the moving leather seal?
Or am I missing something here?
How much would it cost to build this whole pump from scratch? Thanks
Could be around 60-80usd.
Hi sir, Im from the philippines. I have a few question regarding the ram pump, just wondering if its okay to use smaller drive pipe? My pump is 5/4 and currently the only pipe available in my area is 1inch pipe. Thanks. Hope you see. Keep safe and godbless :)
Yes, it should work. Your weight should be just lighter or the distance in the valve smaller. But 1'' for 5/4'' is ok.
@@BohumirStehlik thanks sir bohumir :)
What materials all use give me thank you
The shopping list for the pump and the valve is in the "buymeacoffee" link in the description. Thanks
Hi Bohumir, does this design increase the volume of water discharged from the waste valve compared to the average swing valve?
Yes, it does. The valve "waits" longer before it closes under higher pressure.
@@BohumirStehlik I see. Do you happen to have suggestions on how I can modify your design to reduce water discharged from the waste valve? I have this research on redesigning the waste valve of a ram pump to reduce its water discharge to increase the output volume from 1 container to another.
P.S. Love your work. Keep it up!
@@LawrzyMara Either you don't have pressure but you save water, or you have pressure but you need lots of water. You need time for the water to get the speed in the tube... I would look more to the intake pipe than to the valve.
@@BohumirStehlik Assuming my experiment is limited to just reducing the water discharge from the waste valve regardless of the pressure, do you have any modifications to your design in mind that I could apply?
@@LawrzyMara
Solar panels to supply power to a sump pump that can lift the waste water to the height of the lower tank when the sun shines.
I'm interested to know why you chose leather for the seal? I assume it's because it would last longer than rubber?
It is much more durable than any rubber. The leather is thick and quite hard.
Sir I like to replace my old waste valve i want to buy it place quote the rigth price pls call the cp of my son by the name of Alaric tomambo he is from fresno ca.his cp number is 559 253 33 78. Respectfully yours father of alaric tomambo my son
What size drive pipe is this for? 2 inch tee seems big.
Drive pipe is 32mm inner diameter (5/4''). The 2'' is just space. Important is the ending and that's approx 5/4'' (1'' thread)
@@BohumirStehlik by "ending" do you mean the opening where the water comes out? So your drive pipe is 5/4 then the flow opens up into a 2 inch waste vslve that exhausts out of a 5/4 opening. Is that right? I bought a 1 inch foot valve for my one inch drive pipe ram pump. But where the water comes out of the valve is maybe 1/2 inch. Maybe your design is better because the inlet is bigger than the drive pipe but the outlet is the same size as the drive pipe....5/4 inch.
Man.......the piano in the background ws not necessary.......
Overall though great video.......
Thanks. Just wanted to make something special and anoying at the same time. All the best to you
Great design and video, but that music 🤕. Had to mute it
I had to mute it too. Good info. though.